1. Stretchy velour or heavy knit with long sleeves for...

6
5
4
This super fast and simple pattern can be made in
about 15 minutes with very little fabric. These leggings
have two sizes included – 15” and 18” dolls. This is a
great pattern for beginners and will be used often to
complete your doll outfits!
Fabric Requirements (in yards):
1/4 yard
3
Suggested fabrics: Designed for
stretch knits only with 25% stretch
across the grain such as jersey,
interlock, matte jersey, double knit.
Notions: Universal or Ball-point
needle, Polyester thread, 1 package
1/4” elastic.
Quick Measure
1
2
OPTIONAL: Wooly Nylon or
Maxilock Stretch Thread
Doll Leggings
For 15” and 18” dolls
Designed by Laura Johnson © February 2013 1
Web: www.ellieinspired.com
ellieinspired@juno.com
Cover garments and Photography by Carissa Haning
CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN
Doll Leggings
• Cut out TWO pants pieces on the fold. (See last
pattern page).
by Laura Johnson
Please read through all directions before beginning.
GLOSSARY
Finishing seam edges – Knits do not fray or ravel
so a finished seam is not necessary. However,
there are two ways to achieve a professional
seam inside your garment with this pattern:
1. Use a serger when stitching the seams.
2. Use an overlock stitch or a zig-zag stitch
on your sewing machine when stitching
the seam.
Shaded areas in diagram – In all of the diagrams
in this pattern, the shaded areas are the wrong
side of the garment.
Armscye – Armhole opening.
Stretch Ratio – Stretch ratio is the maximum
percentage a fabric will stretch. Most knits range
from 18-100%.
IMPORTANT: All seams, unless otherwise marked are ¼”.
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS
Size
Inseam
15”
18”
5 3/4”
6”
Stretch Memory – The amount a knit will return to
its original shape after being fully stretched.
© January 2013 Laura Johnson
2
Ellie Inspired
Pressing Knits: It is not necessary to press knits while
TIPS FOR SEWING WITH KNITS
constructing the garment since they do not take a sharp
crease. However, the garment can be blocked when
Types of Knits:
finished to shape it, make the hems lie flat, and relax
1. Stable Knits – Knits with 18-25% stretch ratio. Example:
stitching and elastic.
polar fleece and sweat fabrics.
2. Moderate Knits - Knits with 26-50% stretch ratio.
Example: T-shirt fabric, interlocks, jerseys, double-knits.
3. Stretchy Knits - Knits with 51-75% stretch ratio. Example:
velour, stretch terry, some T-shirt fabrics.
4. Super-Stretch Knits - Knits with 76-100% stretch ratio.
Interfacing: Interfacing should be used very sparingly with
knits because it will prevent the knit from stretching. If
interfacing must be used, use tricot interfacing which has a
cross-wise stretch. It will not bubble or pucker like Pellon or
woven fusing. Stabilizers such as twill tape, seam binding,
Example: spandex, nylon spandex, cotton spandex,
or a piece of woven selvage can be used to reinforce
jumbo spandex.
shoulder seams and prevent the garment from stretching
5. Rib Knits - Knits with up to 100% stretch ratio. Rib knits
out of shape.
are created by alternating vertical stripes of stockinette
stitch with vertical stripes of reverse stockinette stitch.
Machine Stitches:
1x1 Ribs stretch more than 2x2 or 3x3 ribs. Example: cuff
1. Stretch Stitch – The stretch stitch looks like a lightning
ribbing, waistband ribbing, crew neck collars.
6. Sweater Knits - Knits with 18-50% stretch ratio. Example:
sweaters and sweater dresses.
7. Stretch Wovens - Knits with less than 18% stretch ratio.
Stretch wovens are created by weaving lycra within
bolt on the sewing machine. It is a great choice to cut
down on skipped and broken stitches.
2. Zig-Zag Stitch: A stitch that goes one way (zig), then the
other (zag), which gives the fabric more room to
stretch.
fabric.
© January 2013 Laura Johnson
3
Ellie Inspired
3. Three-Step Zig-Zag Stitch: A variation of the traditional
4. Walking Foot - A walking foot is optional but it will help
zig-zag stitch which works better with tightly knitted
greatly in diminishing puckering in the seams. It helps to
fabrics to prevent skipped stitches and bunching under
grip the top of fabric so that the top and bottom pass
the needle.
through under the needle evenly.
4. Twin-Needle Stitching - A twin needle will sew two
parallel lines of stitches on the top of a piece of fabric,
and a single zig-zag stitch underneath, making the
seam decorative and stretchy
Fold-Over Elastic, Bindings, and Ribbed Finishes:
1. Fold-Over Elastic: This can be used to bind edges. It is a
stretchy trim with a knitted-in foldline. It stretches,
comes in different widths, shiny, matte, or picot-edged.
Notions:
2. Self-Fabric Bindings: Use a knit with a high stretch ratio.
1. Ball-point needles – Sharp needles pierce the fabric and
3. Ribbed Finishes: When cutting rib knit for cuffs or
cut the fibers. Ballpoint needles have rounded tips and
neckline, stretch the fabric when cutting.
are designed to glide through the loops instead so that
the fabric is not harmed.
2. Polyester thread - Polyester thread has more elasticity
and can stretch a little with the fabric. Use polyester
thread in the needle to create stable seams.
3. Wooly Nylon or Maxilock Stretch thread – These threads
create seams that recover after being stretched, which
is a great benefit when sewing knit fabrics. Use this
thread in the upper looper of the serger and in the
bobbin of the sewing machine. It also offers great
coverage when stitching rolled hems.
© January 2013 Laura Johnson
4
Ellie Inspired
SEWING THE LEGGINGS
Stitching the Front to the Back:
1. Place the two pants
pattern pieces right
sides together. Stitch
the curved
center back and
center front
sections only.
3. Open out the pants and
place them right sides
together so that the
center back and center
front seams that were
just stitched are now in
the centers and match
at the crotch. Stitch the
front to the back along the inseam.
Finishing the Waist:
1. Press top raw edge of the pants to the inside ¼”.
2. Hem the bottom of each leg by turning it to the inside
1/4“ twice, enclosing the raw edges. Stitch close to the
folded edge.
2. Fold the top of the waistband to the inside 1/2”. Place
the folded edge over the seam allowance, enclosing
the raw edges. Pin in place.
© February 2013 Laura Johnson
5
Ellie Inspired
3. Stitch close to the folded edge. Leave a 2” opening at
the center back seam.
Doll Leggings
By Laura Johnson. For personal use only. All rights reserved.
Copyright © February 2013. No part of this pattern may be
reproduced or copied without permission in writing from the
author. To see more patterns by Laura Johnson go to
www.ellieinspired.com.
4. Use the following chart as a guideline for elastic
measurements:
Size
Elastic
Special thanks to Carissa Haning for the adorable front cover
picture! Also, thank you to my wonderful pattern testers and
wonderful customers. I hope you enjoy this gift from me to
you!
Fair use of this pattern are subject to the following conditions:
15” Doll
18” Doll
11”
10”
5. Cut a piece of elastic the correct length and attach a
safety pin to one end. Thread it through the opening.
“Doll Leggings” is a special thank-you gift for my amazing
customers and is available for FREE! It is only available on my
website: www.ellieinspired.com. Please do NOT re-post this
pattern in its entirety. A link may be provided back to my site.
If you sell garments made using this pattern, in consideration of
the many hours spent on the design, please always give credit
to Ellie Inspired as the designer (i.e. “Doll Leggings” pattern by
Ellie Inspired, www.ellieinspired.com). No mass production is
permitted using this pattern.
Stitch the two ends of elastic together using a zig-zag
stitch and stitch the opening on the waistband closed.
For questions on sewing patterns by Ellie Inspired, visit the
discussion forums on our website: www.ellieinspired.com
© February 2013 Laura Johnson
6
Ellie Inspired
15” Cutting Line
18” Cutting Line
Stretch
ELLIE INSPIRED
Pants
Cut 2 on Fold of Fabric
“Doll Leggings”
Designed by Laura Johnson
Copyright © December 2012
www.ellieinspired.com
Place on Fold
1”
© December 2012 Laura Johnson
7
Ellie Inspired