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BULETINUL INSTITUTULUI POLITEHNIC DIN IAŞI
Publicat de
Universitatea Tehnică „Gheorghe Asachi” din Iaşi
Tomul LVI (LX), Fasc. 3, 2010
SecŃia
TEXTILE. PIELĂRIE
THREE - DIMENSIONAL KNITTED FABRIC WITH
TECHNICAL DESTINATION
BY
DORIN IONESI, RAMONA CIOBANU, ANA VIRCAN,
MIRELA BLAGA and COSTEA BUDULAN
Abstract. The three dimensional knitted fabrics, indifferently of the technology
used, are characterised by a specific 3D geometry, with reinforcement yarns,
characterized of a multiaxial directions. There are different knitting techniques to
produce 3-D knitted fabric on an electronic flat-bed knitting machine: incomplete
rows, the use of patterns with 3D effects, multilayer structure (sandwich), and fullyfashion.
The object of this research is to obtain knitted fabrics with three-dimensional
geometry using weft knitting technology on an electronic flat-bed knitting machine.
This research also targets the optimization of the knitting process based on
adjustments of technological parameters: stitch length, fabric take-down, carriage speed,
to obtain a tight structure and a better dimensional stability of the knitted fabric.
Key words: weft knits, 3D effects, technical application, electronic flat-bed knitting
machine.
1. Introduction
Development of three-dimensional knitted fabrics dates from the 19thcentury, but their engineering applications began in the late 1960s. The threedimensional technical textile products have been used in various fields, such as
protective clothing, transportation, geo-textiles, buildings, packing materials,
military equipment, medicine and sports, etc.
Preforms made of knitted fabrics with complex shapes represent a
group of three-dimensional materials with great applicability, mainly due to the
advantage of eliminating the process of assembling before composite
processing. The elimination of this operation significantly reduces the
production time and allows for automation, improving whole process. Also it
ensures and improves the overall quality of the finished product, by being able to
control the characteristics and properties of textile performs from its design phase.
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Development of three-dimensional fabrics was stimulated by the new
software design and performance modelling, and new generations of textile
machines, capable of producing complex structures [2], [3].
2. Characterisation of 3D Knitted Fabrics
The concept of three-dimensional of the textile materials is not related to the
intrinsic value of dimensions found on the three axes (x, y, z), but to the relationship
between them. This relation characterises the importance of the dimensions in the
geometry of the material. The concepts of one, bi and three-dimensional materials
are directly related to the construction of a particular fabric [5].
Thus, a one-dimensional material shows negligible dimensions
compared to its length, while for a two-dimensional material thickness is
considered negligible. The textiles included in one-dimensional materials are
fibres and filaments. Textile materials produced by different technologies are
considered to be two or three dimensions [5].
A three-dimensional fabric, regardless of the process used, is “a
continuous ensemble, with fully integrated fibre, characterised by multiaxial
spatial orientation” [5].
Three-dimensional knitted fabrics can be obtained with different
technologies and their specific techniques. Thus, as shown in Fig. 1, creating a
three-dimensional effect on knits is based on the following techniques:
I. Insertion of additional yarns along multiple directions;
II. Knitting and linking independent layers in different ways;
III. Spatial shaping.
Fig. 1 − Classification of three-dimensional knitted fabrics.
Spatial shaping technique is based on three methods. First method
involves using a combination of different structures or different evolution,
which presents a different arrangement. Limitations of these fabrics refer
Bul. Inst. Polit. Iaşi, t. LVI (LX), f. 3, 2010
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to the lack of homogeneity of all the material properties and reduced
diversity of forms.
A second method involves the use of dynamic density, the areas with
different stitch lengths presenting different geometry. Both methods are
restrictive and limiting.
For this reason, spatially shaped preforms are produced with the third
method. This method is known as incomplete rows knitting technique; this
technique implies a process of knitting by holding temporary the stitches on the
selected needles which don’t participate to the knitting, until those are
reintroduced in work- consecutive or simultaneous. The basic structures used are:
single jersey structure and rib structure, the most used is single jersey structure.
3. Principles for Obtaining Three-Dimensional Knitted Fabrics
To produce three-dimensional fabrics, the knitted material can be
formed by the technique called spatial fashioning technique (also known as
flechage). Three-dimensional structures can be created also by knitting stitches
and loops combined with the lateral movement of the needle bed. By increasing
or decreasing the number of working needles it is possible to create threedimensional knitted items on intarsia knits. The paper approaches four different
methods of producing three-dimensional articles on flat needle knitting machines.
The methods of making three-dimensional items on flat knitting machines are:
1. Incomplete knitted rows technique (spatial fashioning);
2. The use of patterns with 3D effects – egg. Knitting tuck stitches
patterns combined with racking;
3. Knitting separate fabrics connected in between – sandwich/spacer fabrics;
4. Integral knitting /wholegarment.
3.1. Incomplete Rows Knitting Technique
Incomplete rows knitting technique is a technique used by designers of
knits to create three-dimensional knitted items or tubular knits (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2 − Knitted fabrics with spatial geometry.
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3.2. Use of Patterned Structures with 3D Effects
Three-dimensional knitted fabrics can also be created using structure patterns
with 3D effects. The most known example is the so called egg nest fabric, created by
Shima Seiki [1]. The pattern is based on cardigan evolutions combined with
successive racking in opposite directions. Fig. 3 exemplifies the aspect of such a fabric.
Another example is a jersey fabric with a zone with miss stitches while
the carriers produce stitches on the opposite bed. When the missing stitches are
discharges, the stitches produced on the opposite bed are transferred to the
working bed. The effect in the fabric is illustrated in Fig. 4.
Fig. 3 − Knitted fabric with 3D effects.
Fig. 4 – Knitted fabric with wave effect.
3.3. Sandwich Fabrics
A knitted layered item (sandwich) is a three-dimensional structure,
composed from two outer layers knitted together independent, connected by
yarns or other knitted layers, definition illustrated in Fig. 5.
Fig. 5 − Principle of sandwich fabrics.
Sandwich fabrics with connection through knitted layers present a large
range of development possibilities [5]:
− increase in the fabric thickness based on the length of the
connection layers;
− modification of the geometry of external fabrics due to the use of
connecting layers with different length;
Bul. Inst. Polit. Iaşi, t. LVI (LX), f. 3, 2010
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− modification of the cross section geometry due to connecting layers
with modified geometry.
3.4. Integral Knitting Technique
Integral knitting technique is an improved stage in the development of
technologies for machine flat knitting machines [1]. So far it is the most
advanced knitting technology through which a garment is completely assembled
on a knitting machine without the need of sewing. Seamless knitting technology
is a method that cuts off waste and reduces costs. The seamless garment (Fig. 6)
is very comfortable and resistant to wear.
Fig. 6 − Seamless product – integral knitting.
4. Experimental Part
When producing the sandwich fabrics on flat knitting machines, by
connecting the outer layers with knitted layers, the degree of fabric compactness
is low, due to working on selected needles – increasing the distance between
wales. The present work establishes the optimum technological parameters in
order to get the best fabric compactness. The fabrics were designed on M1
pattern station and they were produced on a Stoll CMS 530, E 6.2 electronic
knitting machine [4]. The fabrics are presented in Fig. 7, as principle.
Fig. 7 − Principle of sandwich structure with two connecting layers.
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To achieve this objective a sandwich structure with two connecting
layers using a 50/50% PAN/Cotton yarn, Nm 30/2 was chosen. The fabric was
knitted with a 1:3 needles arrangement and is illustrated in Fig. 8.
Fig. 8 − Sandwich structure with two connecting layers.
Four values were chosen for stitch density: NP=12, NP=11, NP=10
and NP=9. These structures are based on a high number of transfer stages,
and in order to avoid the cast off, a low value of carriage speed was
employed (0.5÷0.7 m/s), while the take-down force was selected in the
interval WM=3÷3.5.
The knitted fabric with NP=12 proves a low degree of tightness,
which is increasing along with the decrease of the stitch quality cam position.
The minimum value for the stitch quality cam position is NP=9. Lower
values cause yarns breaking. Between NP 12.0 and NP 10.0 the aspect of
fabric doesn’t show significant changes, but comparison between fabrics
made with NP 10.0 and NP 9.0 show significant modifications in fabric
compactness (Fig. 9). The tightness is increased but fabric has poor aspect,
because of the extended sinker loops. A finishing process could improve the
appearance or another option concerning the structure, so further trials should
further done.
Fig. 9 − Sandwich structure with two binding layers made with NP 9.0.
The knitting scheme used for the production of the sandwich fabric with
two connecting layers is shown in Fig. 10.
Bul. Inst. Polit. Iaşi, t. LVI (LX), f. 3, 2010
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The connection between the
inside layers is made by tuck
loops on the opposite layer.
The knitting of the two
layers, with needle ratio 1:3.
The connection of the inside
layers to the outside ones are
made by tucking.
To obtain a sandwich fabric
the work should be done
with 1:3 needle selections,
using two yarn carriers, one
carrier for each thread. Two
layers are knitted on the
front bed and two on the
rear bed. To individualize
the layers it is made the
successive transfer of the
stitches.
Fig. 10 − Knitting scheme and the description of knitting process.
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5. Conclusions
Sandwich fabrics are three dimensional structures suitable for the
production of 3D knitted preforms used for technical purposes. If high
performance yarns are used, these composites provide improved mechanical
properties compared to traditional materials. The use of flat knitting machines
offers great possibilities of shaping for knitted preforms.
The dimensional sandwich fabrics provide for air, heat and moisture
transfer. These characteristics make them recommendable to use for medical
purposes, pillows, matrices, shoes, tables for operations.
Technical solutions for fabric diversification are summarised below:
− Variations of the number of layers;
− Combinations between the outer fabrics, connecting layers on vertical
and horizontal position;
− Engineering the thickness by modifying the length of connection layers;
− Developing different structure and opacity independently on each side;
− Using different materials for the two fabric sides and spacer threads;
To obtain a high degree of fabric compactness for this group of fabrics,
on a machine with 6.2E, one can use Nm=30/2 yarns, knitted with a stitch depth
of NP=9 and take-down force WM=3.5 or changing the thread with Nm=24/1,
in combination with a stitch depth of NP=12.
The structural design of the sandwich structures is essential for the
engineering of fabric properties. Especially the cross section of the fabric is
responsible for the channel shape and orientation, thus for the type of resulted
cells. The properties of the fabric depend on the cross-section geometry, which
is determined by joint point position between layers.
A c k n o w l e d g e m e n t s. This paper is financially supported by
EURODOC “Doctoral Scholarships for research performance at European level”
project, financed by the European Social Found and Romanian Government.
Received: August 30, 2010
“Gheorghe Asachi” Technical University of Iaşi,
Department of Knitting and Ready-Made Clothing
e-mail: dionesi@tex.tuiasi.ro
REFERENCES
1. Lam J., Zhou J.Y., Principle and Development on 3D Knitted Fabrics – A Knitter`s
Perspective. the First Word Conference on 3D Fabrics and Their Aplications,
Manchester (2008).
2. Blaga M., Tehnologii de tricotare pe maşini rectilinii. Edit. “Gheorghe Asachi”, Iaşi
(2002).
3. Blaga M., Tehnologii neconvenŃionale de tricotare. Note de Curs, “Gheorghe
Asachi” Technical University of Iaşi (2009).
Bul. Inst. Polit. Iaşi, t. LVI (LX), f. 3, 2010
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4. Blaga M., Proiectare asistată de calculator în tricotaje. lecture notes, “Gheorghe
Asachi” Technical University of Iaşi (2008).
5. Ciobanu L., ContribuŃii la dezvoltarea şi realizarea tricoturilor cu destinaŃie tehnică.
Ph. D. Diss., “Gheorghe Asachi” Technical University of Iaşi (2003).
TRICOTURI TRIDIMENSIONALE CU DESTINAłII TEHNICE
(Rezumat)
Materialele textile tridimensionale, indiferent de procesul tehnologic utilizat,
reprezintă ansambluri continue, complet integrate de fibre, caracterizate prin orientarea
spaŃială multiaxială. Pentru producerea tricoturilor din bătătură tridimensionale pe
maşini rectilinii controlate prin microprocesor, se pot aplica diferite tehnici de tricotare,
cum sunt: rândurile incomplete, ochiurile duble combinate cu deplasarea laterală a
fonturii, intarsia, stratificarea, tricotarea integrală.
Scopul acestei cercetări este studiul producerii tricoturilor din bătătură cu
efecte tridimensionale obŃinute prin tehnicile prezentate anterior, pe maşini rectilinii de
tricotat cu selectare electronică şi comandă program.
Principalul obiectiv al acestei cercetări constă în optimizarea parametrilor
tehnologici (forŃa de tragere, adâncime de buclare, viteza saniei) în vederea obŃinerii
unui grad de compactitate mai mare a tricotului şi o stabilitate dimensională mai bună a
asamblului tricotat.