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Cartier’s Modern Evolution: Clé de Cartier
by Cynthia Bowman
The historical watchmaker, House of Cartier, is synonymous with innovation. Cartier’s
pioneering spirit has not only brought numerous technical advances to horology, but also
spawned revolutionary forms during its storied history. The square shape of Santos and
rectangular Tank were the ﬁrst in a line of iconic watches that not only created an avantgarde aesthetic, but are considered modern-day classics. The same qualities are at the
heart of the house’s newest watch, Clé de Cartier.
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Innovation in curvature
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Cartier debuted the Clé de Cartier watch at the annual Salon International de la Haute
Horlogerie (SIHH) show in Geneva this January. Clé signiﬁes "key" in French, and the
resemblance of the crown to a key is unequivocal. Cartier may be considered a
traditional, classic design house due to its respect for its own heritage, but it certainly has
a passion for innovation. The reductionist, ergonomically curved movement was
launched by technology companies, featuring curved televisions and smartphones. Many
of these electronic products lack sophistication. The meticulously designed Clé de
Cartier timepiece is not lacking in ﬁnesse.
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Ergonomic elegance
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A signature Cartier watch element is its architectural, three-dimensional beauty.
Historically, the House of Cartier has placed great emphasis on the geometric qualities of
their designs, creating models characterized by strong lines and innovative form. The Clé
de Cartier is no exception. The proﬁle is gracefully curved, smooth and elegant. Both
organic and ergonomic, A Clé de Cartier timepiece sensually and comfortably wraps on
the wrist. The Clé de Cartier feels as good as it looks.
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Styling
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The watch’s simplicity is misleading. Great technical mastery is behind its restraint,
creating a ﬂuid design. Sharp edges have been replaced with a smooth, rounded bezel.
The smaller horns deﬁne the dial which displays "Vagues de Geneve" and Roman
numerals. The signature sapphire is inset into the key to mitigate sharp edges. This watch
is all about precision, balance and proportion.
The namesake key
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Cartier has a rich history in creating innovative crowns, and Clé de Cartier embraces this
legacy. Not only is the key the namesake and one of the most distinguishing features of
the watch, but a thoughtfully designed, pivoting key that controls an indexed winding
system. The generous size of the crown, adorned with an inset sapphire, makes it easy to
grip and engage. !
The system is designed to adjust the time and date with great simplicity. The act of
turning the crown causes a pivoting action that pulls it out of the resting position for
adjustment. Pushing it activates a soft click that echoes the quality and complex inner
workings of the watch. The winding system design prevents accidental hand movement
once the setting of the watch is complete. Cartier’s savoir-faire converts a complex
process into a simple gesture.
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New movement design
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The new in-house movement was designed and assembled by the craftsmen of Cartier
Manufacture in Switzerland. Named 1847 MC, the year Maison Cartier was founded,
the self-winding dual-direction system comes with a power reserve of 42 hours.
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Availability
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For men, three 40 mm case versions will be available in April 2015 in a white gold on
leather strap, rose gold on leather strap or yellow gold on bracelet, ranging in price
between $19,700 and $36,700. The women’s three 31 and 35 mm models are set with
pavé diamonds and range in price between $58,500 to $130,000.
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For more information, contact a Cartier Ambassador.
Photo credit: Eric Maillet © Cartier