Download Report

Operation and Requirements
Button Functions:
The Slot Dragon has no power switch and is designed to be "on" all of
the time to enhance your Raceways appearance 24/7. At plug-in the
default setting is 1 lap, singles mode, lane one.
Pressing the Mode Button cycles the mode as follows: singles mode
lane one--singles mode lane two--doubles mode and repeats.
Pressing the +1 Button adds one lap to the lap count.
Pressing the +10 Button adds ten. Pressing both + and - buttons
simultaneously (at the same time) resets to one.
As each car finishes the Display will show its Elapsed Time (ET).
Pressing the ET/RT Button will display Reaction Times.
Pressing the Reset Button AFTER a race will reset to previous settings.
Pressing the Reset Button BEFORE a race will reset the lap count one
(1).
System sequence:
As a car pulls up to the line, its Stage Light will come
on. In the singles mode this starts the race.
Exactly point four (0.4) seconds after the Stage Light
activates; all three yellow lights come on
simultaneously. Point four seconds after that, the
green light activates. The timing and sequence is
exactly that of NHRA Pro Stock.
In doubles mode the race will not start until both cars
are on the line and both stage lights are activated.
If a car red-lights, all three yellow lights will remain
illuminated.
The first car to complete the race without redlighting gets the win light.
Note: The first car to finish always wins. However, occasionally the slower ET will score the Win Light even though the faster
car did not red-light.
This phenomenon is known as a "hole shot" win and is due to a superior reaction time. The slower ET combined with a quicker
Reaction Time was the over-all faster run.
The System is programmable to 99 laps. The decimal point will move to the left to record longer races. Example times: 3.098,
12.05, 109.8 .
Requirements: A Track and a Car.
Snap-on sensor assemblies are available for Two-Lane 1:32 Scalextric, SCX, Carrera, and Ninco/ Dslot 43/ all 75mm HO tracks.
SOME 1:32 CARS MAY NOT BE COMPATABLE WITH SNAP-ON STYLE IF THEIR DOWNFORCE MAGNETS HAVE BEEN REMOVED.
HO PANCAKE CHASSIS (4 gear/Tjets) AND the older LIKE LIKE "M" CHASSIS ARE NOT COMPATABLE WITH THE SNAP-ON GATE
SENSOR.
Our Photo Eye Sensors detect any car and can be installed on any track. Installation requires drilling two 3mm holes in the
track.
Reaction Times and Staging
"if you saw green.................you waited to long"
Reaction is defined as: the result of an action
Reaction Time can be defined as: the time required for reaction
However this is not the case with Drag Racing.
Drag Racing Reaction-Time refers to the time elapsed from the instant the green light is activated to when the car leaves the starting
line. The triggers are taken from the green light and the beam sensors at the edge of the track.
In summary "Drag Racing Reaction Time" is the combined time for the driver to hit the throttle and the response time of the car
to move off the line.
In light of this, it is possible to send the command from your brain to your foot/finger a few thousandths of a second before the
green without red-lighting.
A professional Funny Car Driver once explained it as "like an on-board clock in the mind".
A rehearsed, preprogrammed, 1 2 3 count. Stage, yellow, BAM!
It must be considerably more difficult strapped to a 300+ MPH Funny Car facing possible death but with Slot Cars it is relatively less
stressful.
In conclusion: Drag Racing Reaction Time is more about rhythm than reaction. So if you saw green................................
About Staging:
Slot Dragon has an active Staged Zone of about 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch
for HO and about 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 inches for 1/32 scale.
This length will vary slightly depending on down-force strength
of the traction magnets in any given car.
(Photo Eye Sensors detect the entire car)
Early Staging is pulling up just enough to trip the sensor and has
the possible advantage of timing a "rolling" start.
Early Staged
Late Staging is pulling forward towards the Trailing Edge of the
active zone and has the advantage of starting out physically as
far forward as possible.
Staging first has the advantage of ample time for positioning but
the disadvantage of commitment.
Staging last has the advantage of dictating the start
but substantially less time for positioning.
All these strategies come into play when sanctioning a short race
in a straight line OR IN A LOOP! Trust me one time. Race one lap,
change your life.
Set up and Tips
This is the recommend Set-up procedure for Precision Slot Car Racing.
Set up 18 to 35 feet of track in a configuration that consists of two halfs that mirror each other i.e. a figure eight.
This layout will have the same amount of inside and outside turns and both cars will travel the same distance.
We encourage using an overpass as opposed to an intersection cross piece (crucifix) as your cars will crash plenty enough trying to
break the track record.
Start the underpass straight away with your terminal piece. Under the following piece, snap on your sensor assembly. Warning!
Properly installed, your sensors will last forever. Until then, they are fragile. PLEASE read installation instructions for your make of
track by clicking the link below.
See Sensor Installation section for sensor installation procedures.
Plug sensor Assembly, Christmas Tree and Power Supply into Display/Control Tower. Apply AC power. Press Mode button twice to
select Doubles mode. Place car in either lane and push slowly over the sensor assembly just enough to trigger Stage Light.
Position Start/Finish Line just
under front bumper (as
pictured).
Push the Mode Button once
to select Singles Mode Lane
One. Taxi a car up to the
Line. If a Stage Light comes
on you are in lane one. If
not, you are in lane two.
Taxi your car up to the line in
lane one. The Stage Light
will come on for a duration
of exactly .4 seconds after
which the yellows will come
on.
.4 seconds after that (if you
don't red-light) comes the
green. Go!
Repeat if needed until you
complete one lap without
red-lighting and get a time.
You may want to press the
+1 button to add a lap if you
have a smaller track and your time is under 2 seconds(nice run by the way).
Practice a while and witness your improvement. This is in part because your engine is warming up and partly because your trying
harder. The whole gig has changed now.
Wrecks that used to be the pinnacle of entertainment, suck. You didn't get a Time.
Raise your back tires off the track and run your engine open throttle for a full minute. A hot engine should shave a few thousandths.
Clean your tires. Note your times. Soon you will know how often to clean for optimum performance on your length of raceway.
Experiment with your Hole-Shot. This is the time you can hold your car full throttle off the line and still negotiate the first turn.
After your passes press the ET/RT Button. If your reaction time is over .200 then there is room for improvement. Please read the
page on Reaction Times and Staging.
Also See Reaction Time and Staging Section
Set up and Tips (continued)
If you don't already own some plastic-friendly contact cleaner, yellow semi-gloss spray paint, super glue, and silicone tires, go get
some.
Trick your track with a pre-stage area using the stencil provided.
While you are waiting for the paint to dry disassemble and clean your slowest car. Use a dental tool or an exacto knife to remove
every bit of fiber, lint, hair, etc off of the motor armature and axiles.
Spray the engine with contact cleaner while turning the rear axil. Oil front and rear of armature shaft.
Don't forget to oil the axel bearings too.
Reassemble, clean the tires, warm the engine, and now make note of your ET's.
Your new silicone tires will drop a dramatic 10% off your ET's.
If your car has a spoiler, take it off. Most are removable, if not, cut it off if you want another 5% off your times. Another game
changer brought to you by Slot Dragon: spoilers look great, but performance wise, on Slot Cars, they......
Your ET's should be about half that of your first runs.
Take the body off. Wow! What a difference. Find a hobby shop that has Vacuum Formed Slot Car Bodies. If you paint them yourself
be sure to buy a recommended paint.
One last thing. If you are racing HO, spring for some gold or silver plated Pick-Up Shoes. This will get more juice to the engine and
improve the only thing that counts any more, your Times!
Now imagine two cars rocketing off the line in total unison and the phenomenon of your track contorting from the intarsia of both
cars ripping side-by-side thru the turns.
If you are racing on a stock set chances are you will not be able to reach the level of performance in doubles that you achieved by
yourself. This is because you are now "sharing" the power supply.
Many sets come with an extra jack to add another transformer. If your track does not feature this option there are a variety of
other alternatives to get more power (amps) that can be found on the internet.
happy tracks-
Sensor Installation
HO Sensor Gate Installation.
.
(1) Pit edge of track in one corner of Sensor Gate.
(2)
Scalextric and Ninco.
(1) Line up glass sensors with natural holes in track.
(2) Hook Assembly over edge of track.
.
(3) View Glass Sensors thru holes to verify alignment.
(4) Apply pressure to edge of track to snap into place.
SCX
(1) Make four (4) "V" cuts in bottom of track as pictured.
Carrera
Sensor Assembly can be slid over end of track or snapped on
from underneath.
(2) Follow same procedure as for Scalextric and Ninco.
Bondoman Photo Eye
(Install and Operation)
Tools Required:
Ruler/Tape measure
Marker
3mm drill bit
Drill
Super glue
Striaght pin
Electricians tape
Precision standard screwdriver
Block of wood
Calibration preparation.
(1) Connect Bondman Sensor to the jack marked
"sensor" on the Display/Control Module.
(2) Power up Display/Control Module.
(3) Supply 12 volts to the Bondoman with external
power supply (provided).
(4) Place track piece with sensor eyes install on a
flat surface.Take care not to cast a shadow on the
sensors.
1.
Measure and mark underside to track piece where holes are to
be drilled.
Hole placement for HO should be in between one of the electric
rails and the center slot.
Hole placement for 1:32 should be next to rails.
2.
Place a piece of scrap wood underneath track to prevent damage
to working surface.
If using a variable speed drill, start at slow speed to prevent the
bit from wandering.
If using a standard drill, use a hammer and nail to create a small
impression in the plastic to prevent the bit from wandering.
3.
Use a straight pen to apply a small amount of Super Glue to
inside sleeve of one hole. Push Photo Eye into hole from
underside of track. Position sensor so that only the crown of the
eye protrudes from top suface of the track. Otherwise lowprofile cars may make contact.
4.
Repeat process with remaining sensor.
5.
Place small piece of electricians tape over the underside of Photo
Eye to prevent light from entering.
Calibration:
(1)Turn adjustment to the full Counter Clockwise position with
small standard screw driver.
(2)Turn Clockwise until LED lights up.
(3)Back off 1/8 turn after LED goes off.
(4)Repeat procedure for opposite lane.
If LED's stay on constantly then there is not enough ambient
light. Full spectrum day light is best, fluorescent lights work well,
incandescent light bulb is the least effective.
Placing a small reading lamp over the eyes is always a sure
fire option.
If LED’s flicker and count erratic, to much light is getting to the
underside of track/sensor.
Use more electricians tape to cover underside, lay track on non
reflective surface, make sure surface is flat.
If LED’s flicker and count erratic, to much light is getting to the
underside of track/sensor.
Use more electricians tape to cover underside, lay track on non
reflective surface, make sure surface is flat.
Goto www.slotcardragon.com to see the
Bondoman Photo Eye
Calibration Video
Troubleshooting
SYMPTOM
CAUSE
CURE
Start Tree lights on wrong side
Tree is facing backwards
Turn Tree 180 degrees
Both Tree and Display show on
wrong side
Sensor is backwards
Turn Sensor Assembly or track piece 180
degrees
Car on inside lane occasionally
registers on outside lane
Sensors located to close coming out of a turn
Move Sensor Assembly forward.
Sensors do not respond
"sensor" and "lights" plugs are reversed
Switch the plugs underneath the
Control/Display Tower.
Sensors behave erratic. Over
sensitive/Under sensitive.
Miscount/Double count etc.
The metal reeds inside sensors have become
magnetized. This is due to "parking" cars directly
over sensors for long periods of time i.e. over
night.
Use degaussing tool or simply wait 24
to 36 hours. Do not leave cars in Staging
Area when not in use.
More information can be found on the website at http://www.slotcardragon.com .
Need more answers?
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Email: boone57@slotcardragon.com
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