1. home and garden

PWC
Monarch Butterfly Sustainability Program
Pella Wildlife Company
P.O. Box 642
Altoona, IA. 50009
Contents
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Hypothesis
Life Cycle
Milkweed Production
Monarch Butterfly Care Sheet
Tagging Information
Data Sheet
Acknowledgements
1. Hypothesis
This program may prove that all threatened and or endangered species may not need to be
placed on the Endangered Species List. That with public education, inspiration and
motivation a species can recover with the participation of the general public. The future
of wildlife management is in the hands of the people. It has been said that in order for
someone to care about wildlife they need to experience wildlife. The monarch butterfly is
the simplest way to motivate a large number of people to get involved with stewardship
and relevant wildlife management services.
The human element of wildlife management is becoming more important as it becomes
clear that an understanding of the public and constituents often means the difference
between the success or failure of wildlife management programs (Responsive
Management 2011). While the public has been increasingly drawn into the wildlife
decision arena, typically, their level of wildlife knowledge is limited. Education of the
public remains one of the greatest challenges for the future (Sixty-Third North American
Wildlife and Natural Resources Conference).
According to the National Science Teachers Association (NSTA) position statement
“Observation and experimentation with living organisms gives students special
perspectives of life processes that are not provided by other modes of instruction. Study
animals in the classroom enables students to develop skills of observation and
comparison; a sense of stewardship; and an appreciation for the unity, interrelationships,
and complexity of life.” This statement applies to students at any age.
The Monarch Butterfly Sustainability Project has the potential to become a very
successful program and set a standard for future community based wildlife conservation
programs.
Success of the program can be monitored yearly through a colored monarch butterfly
tagging program. Monarchs tagged in the 4th generation for fall and spring migration will
bear a tag with a specific color for Iowa affixed to all captive raised and released
butterflies. A monitoring crew in Mexico can visually see which monarchs and how
many came from Iowa. Another colored tag can be used to monitor Iowa based wild
monarchs for fall and spring migration.
2. Life Cycle
"How long does a monarch
live?"
"Why do monarchs migrate
south?"
The answers to these two
questions go hand-in-hand.
Children ask them all the
time. Most monarchs live
from two to six weeks as an
adult butterfly, but the
Monarch's migration is the
KEY to its yearly life cycle.
The total time frame for one
butterfly's life cycle (one generation) is about 6-8 weeks . . . egg, caterpillar,
chrysalis, butterfly. It grows inside the egg for about 4 days. It then munches
milkweed and grows as a monarch caterpillar (larvae) for about 2 more weeks.
The caterpillar's life inside the chrysalis (pupa) lasts about 10 days and its
wonderful life as an adult butterfly lasts from 2 - 6 weeks.
February/March - hibernating monarchs in Mexico and southern California
reawaken, become active, find a mate, begin the flight northward and lay their
eggs. Finally they die. These special monarchs have lived about 4-5 months
through the long winter.
March/April -the 1st generation monarchs are born -egg, caterpillar, chrysalis,
adult butterfly;
May/June - the 2nd generation is born - egg, caterpillar, chrysalis, adult
butterfly;
July/August - the 3rd generation is born - egg, caterpillar, chrysalis, adult
butterfly;
Sept/Oct - the 4th generation is born - egg, caterpillar, chrysalis, adult butterfly . .
. but THIS generation does not die. It MIGRATES south and lives 6-8 months in
Mexico or Southern California. They begin awakening and mating in
February/March of the NEXT SPRING, and then lay their eggs! Withered and
tattered from their migration and hibernation . . . they finally die.
The cycles goes on as the new baby caterpillars are born each spring and the
cycle continues throughout the year into the next spring. MAGICAL and
AMAZING!
3. Milkweed Production
Milkweed Fact Sheet Common Name: Common milkweed Scientific Name: Asclepias
syriaca
Description: Milkweed usually has a solitary, simple stem, 0.5-1.8 meters (1.5-6 feet)
tall, though clumps of multiple stems can be found. Leaves are opposite, oval, and 5-25
centimeters (2-10 inches) long. The surface of the leaf is hairy underneath and smooth on
top. The leaf stem is short and thick. Milkweed may also send up stems intermittently
through the growing season. This may result in stems being at different life stages
throughout the summer.
Special Characteristics: Milkweed exudes a thick white sap from any cut or broken
surface.
Habitat: Milkweed is common in fields, meadows and along roadsides.
Range: Milkweed is found from New Brunswick to Saskatchewan, south to Georgia and
Tennessee and west to Iowa and Kansas.
Propagation: Milkweeds flower from June to August. The flower consists of a large
cluster of individual flowers on a stalk. A flower stalk may originate from the tip of a
branch or stem or at the junction of a leaf with a stem. Insects usually pollinate the
flowers because the pollen is lumped in waxy masses that are too sticky and heavy for
wind fertilization. Very few of the flowers produce large, healthy seed pods. The seeds
are dispersed by the wind catching the long silky hairs. Studies of seed dispersal indicate
seeds typically drift 7.5 to 30 meters (25 to 100 feet) before settling to the earth.
Milkweed also propagates from underground rhizomes, which may be several meters in
length. A rhizome may produce multiple stems, so numerous stems within a short
distance (e.g., 0.5-1.0 meters) of each other may all be from the same rhizome. These
multiple stems are genetically identical and the clump can be referred to as a clone.
Life Span: Milkweed may live as little as 2 to 3 years or as long as 25 years.
Threats to the Milkweed: Most species of milkweed are not seriously threatened,
although one type of milkweed is on the endangered species list. Some potential threats
to the milkweed family:
• Milkweed is considered a weed in many areas, resulting in frequent, sometimes
largescale attempts to get rid of it.
• Some strains of milkweed are sensitive to a form of air pollution called ground-level
ozone, a.k.a. smog. This pollutant reacts chemically with the milkweed plant to damage
its leaves. Studies have not shown major ozone-related reduction in milkweed
populations.
Milkweed plants benefit from vernalization, a process of cold treatment, before sprouting.
They get this when planted outside, but to speed up the growing process, treat the seeds
through stratification. Place seeds into a container of moist soil, cover with a plastic bag
and refrigerate for at least three weeks. Plant into containers, if desired, and place under a
grow light inside; about six weeks before soil temperatures outside have warmed. Keep
the soil moist by misting, but seeds can rot if allowed to sit in soggy soil.
When you are ready to plant, place seeds 1/8 inch below the soil surface you can use a
deep pot, since most milkweeds have a long roots. Don't plant the seeds too deep,
because they need plenty of light and warmth to germinate and grow ( at 70 degrees
within 14 days). Keep the seedlings moist for the first three weeks after they sprout, then
transplant to larger containers with quality soil if necessary. You can lightly fertilize them
lightly after the seedling stage, using a regular flower fertilizer. Cutting off the top of the
plant after they reach 8-12" creates more stalks and more leaves. It takes about two
months before the plant is large enough for caterpillars to eat. When the leaves have been
eaten, simply cut the plant off about three inches above the soil or just above the lowest
branching of the stalk and the plant will grow back fuller and create even more food for
Monarchs. Warning: one caterpillar will eat 20+ large leaves so make sure you have
enough plants to support the number of caterpillars you have, or they will starve. When
plants have two sets of leaves, transplant them to their permanent, sunny location outside.
Space plants about two feet apart, if planting in a row. The milkweed plant grows from a
long taproot and does not like to be moved after planting outdoors. Mulch can help
conserve water.
When to plant depends on your location. It takes a minimum of 60 days from seeds to
have a plant large enough to support a caterpillars' food needs.
Safety – Do not Eat, Do Not get sap on skin or eyes
Harvest and Storage of Milkweed Seeds
The timing of the collection of milkweed pods or seeds is critical. Mature pods are those
that are within a day or two of opening. If you squeeze the pods and they don’t open
easily, they usually do not contain mature brown seeds. Seeds well into the process of
browning and hardening will germinate when planted the next season. Pale or white seeds
should be not collected. Freshly collected pods dry should be dried in an open area with
good air circulation. Once the pods are thoroughly dry, the seeds can be separated from
the coma, or silk-like ballooning material, by hand. Separation of seeds can also be
accomplished by stripping the seeds and coma from the pods into a paper bag. Shake the
contents of the bag vigorously to separate the seeds from the coma and then cut a small
hole in a corner of the bottom of the bag and shake out the seeds. Store dried seeds in a
cool, dry place protected from mice and insects - a plastic bag (reclosable) or other
container in the refrigerator works well
4. Monarch Butterfly Care Sheet
GUIDE TO RAISING MONARCH BUTTERFLIES
Household Climate: 80 F is ideal. Below 70 F may result in loss of small "cats". Keep
out of direct sunlight. They will spend most of their time on the under side of leaves. If
humidity in your home is low, add a cotton ball with a small amount of water on it. If
water droplets form on the sides of the container, humidity is too high. Wipe away excess
water.
Care and Feeding: Wash hands before feeding, moving, or cleaning your caterpillar and
its container. Remove droppings (frass). Monarchs eat only milkweed. Wash the leaves in
10% bleach solution, rinse very well and dry on paper towel before giving to caterpillars.
The first week they do not eat a lot but the second week, they eat large amounts. Check
food supply regularly. We suggest you rear them in containers at least 10x10x10". Paper
toweling in the bottom of the container makes cleanup easier. Before reusing any
container we suggest you disinfect the container by soaking in a 10% bleach solution for
20 mins. Rinse thoroughly several times before using again.
Handling Caterpillars: They must be handled carefully because they are easily injured.
Handle as little as possible and wash your hands before moving them. Try one of these
methods: 1. Tear off the section of food the caterpillar is sitting on and place it on a new
leaf. The caterpillar will soon crawl onto the fresh food. 2. Place the tip of a fresh leaf
under the “cats” head and gently wiggle the leaf until the “cat” is almost completely on
the new leaf. Lift carefully and it will crawl on the rest of the leaf. 3. Using a small soft
paintbrush, coax under the caterpillar as with the leaf. 4. Place a fresh food leaf on top of
the caterpillar. It will most likely crawl onto the fresh food and you will be able to
remove the old leaf. If a "cat" has attached itself to the sides or top of the container and is
very still, it is probably preparing to molt, and should not be disturbed. Neither should a
freshly molted "cat" be moved away from its recently shed skin--it is probably planning
to snack on it! Sometimes they do not eat for a whole day when molting.
Health Note: Keeping their environment clean will prevent most but not all illnesses.
Remove any "cats" that have died or have changed color. Disinfect the chamber as
suggested above with a 10% bleach solution, rinsing thoroughly. Transfer remaining
"cats" into clean container. Add food, and watch closely for any more signs of illness.
Some loss is normal, so you may loose a few in spite of your best efforts. The costs are
low, the educational experience priceless, no matter the outcome.
Care of Chrysalis: Follow the lighting, temperature, and humidity guidelines stated
above, and be patient. The caterpillar/butterfly will do the rest! If you need to remove a
chrysalis for some reason, gently pry it from the container with a toothpick. Use a
toothpick to pull the silken pad and chrysalis from the container. Use masking tape to
secure the chrysalis with its silk to the top of the container. Wherever the chrysalis is
placed, make sure the butterfly that will be emerging is able to climb upward and hang its
wings vertically to expand and dry. You may provide a climbing surface by gluing or
taping rough toweling on a side and across the top of the container. Climbing sticks may
also be provided in the container leaving room for the wings.
Releasing your Butterfly: Wait until the wings have dried and stiffened and then take
your rearing chamber outdoors to a sunny location, preferably near nectar-rich flowers.
Open the container and the butterflies will fly away when ready. If you wish to pick up a
butterfly, reach in from behind and grasp the closed wings near the body. Never pull a
butterfly away from what it is grasping.
This section contains practical tips on successfully
rearing Monarchs, and ways in which you can increase
your chances of observing the changes that occur
during their metamorphosis. There are many ways to
rear larvae; feel free to make modifications that work
for you. If you plan on rearing large numbers, or more
than one generation, you may have trouble with
disease. To prevent this, sterilize all rearing containers
between generations with a 10% bleach solution, and
do not keep larvae in crowded conditions.
Please clean their containers often - it is not good for them to live in their own waste.
The Egg
Monarch butterfly eggs are somewhat difficult to find in the wild. Since it only takes 3-5 days for
eggs to hatch, timing is crucial. The best sign is to watch for adult Monarchs stopping at
milkweed plants. A female will usually lay only one egg per milkweed plant to ensure enough
food for each larva. The egg is usually laid on the underside of the leaf, and females prefer young
plants. If you do find an egg, it is best to collect the entire plant, and put its stem in water as soon
as possible. If necessary, you can just take the leaf on which it is resting. If Monarchs are reared
in captivity, females will lay dozens of eggs on a single plant.
Keep the plant stem in water. It may last longer if you cut the end of the stem just before putting
it in water. If you have just taken the leaf, keep it on a moist paper towel or filter paper in a petri
dish or any other clean container. Keep the container covered to maintain modest moisture.
Check each day and add water a drop at a time to the filter paper if necessary.
The top of the egg will look dark before the larva is ready to emerge. Be sure to have a fresh
milkweed leaf in the container for the new larva, if its old leaf is dry.
The Larva (Caterpillar)
Once the larvae emerge, they will need fresh milkweed leaves. They won't eat any other plants,
although they do eat many different species, or kinds, of milkweed. If the original plant is still
fresh, it is easiest to just leave the larvae on this for a few days. They rarely crawl far during this
time, and do not need to be put in a container until they are about four days old. If you are
keeping larvae in individual containers, be sure to replace leaves when they turn dry, every one to
two days. Leaves will keep longer if the stem is wrapped in a moist paper towel and then wrapped
in tin foil or plastic wrap. Containers should be emptied of frass (larva waste) every one to two
days.
If kept in a closed plastic bag in the refrigerator, milkweed will stay fresh for several days. You
will need to save a lot of leaves to keep rearing larvae, but some teachers have reared continuous
generations of Monarchs using this method.
Larvae can be handled safely with fingers after they are about three to four days old, but it is best
to handle them as little as possible until they are over an inch long. If necessary, a moistened
artist brush can be used to transfer younger larvae without hurting them. Larvae of any size
should not be handled when they are molting. They are getting
ready to molt when they remain very still, often on the side or
top of their container, and when you can see their black head
capsule about to come off. Just after they have molted, their
tentacles will look droopy, and you may see the old skin behind
the larva. They will usually eat this skin!
As larvae grow, so will their appetites. Be sure to check their
leaf supply regularly. If you started with a small container, you
will need to move the larvae to a larger one for adequate food
supply and with enough room for the adult butterflies to
emerge from the chrysalis. This should be done during the fourth instar, when the larvae are
about an inch long. Be sure the upper surface is flat for easy attachment for pupating. Many types
of containers can be used; clear or screen sides make it easier for students to see the Monarchs.
Examples of good rearing containers include jars or cups with lids with holes, or covered with
netting held on with a rubber-band. Ice cream buckets with a net rubber-banded over the top also
work well, as do aquaria with screen tops. Feel free to use your imagination!
There is some mortality in the larval stage. One bacterial disease causes the larvae to turn very
dark, and then die. Others may simply stop eating and growing, and then die after for several
days. While this may be difficult for the students to accept, you can assure them that as long as
they have been keeping the containers clean, it is not their fault. Remove dead larvae and clean
their containers well to prevent the spread of disease.
The Pupa (Chrysalis)
When larvae are ready to pupate, they crawl to the top of their cage, attach themselves with silken
thread, and form a prepupal "J" before shedding their skin for the last time. This process is fun to
watch but it happens quickly. You can tell that they will shed their larval skin soon (within
minutes) when their tentacles hang very limply and their bodies straighten out a little.
If desired, you can move the pupa after it has formed. Wait until it is hard and dry (several hours
or longer). Tie a piece of thread around the cremaster and with a needle or pin carefully tease
away the silk that is holding the pupa to the surface. Leave the silk attached so the thread does
not slip off (see figure below). If the pupa has fallen and there is very little silk remaining, add a
drop of glue to the thread where it surrounds the cremaster. The loose ends of thread can then be
tied through a hole in the container cover or through a space in the netting. Clothes pins can also
be used to hold the loose end of the thread to a ring stand or other similar object. It is alright to
handle the pupa carefully and even set it on a table for a minute. The pupa must hang, however,
for the butterfly to form properly. If you have been weighing the larva, it is interesting to weigh
the pupa too.
The adult will emerge in 10-14 days. When it is ready to emerge, the adult wings will be visible
through the pupa covering.
The Adult Butterfly
Adults usually emerge in the mid-morning.
When the pupa is very dark and the orange
and black wings are visible, check it often to
increase your chances of observing this
amazing event. Some Monarchs die in the
pupa stage. If your pupa has been very dark for over 48 hours, it is
probably dead. Allow the newly emerged adult plenty of time to inflate
its wings and for the wings to dry before handling (3-4 hours). To hold a
butterfly, always hold all 4 wings at once in their vertical position. For
record keeping, adults can be marked with a permanent very fine felt
tip pen (like a fine point Sharpie) by writing a number on the hind
wings. Despite what you may have heard, it is alright to handle Monarchs, even touching their
wings, if you do it carefully. Because they live a long time, and many of them withstand a rigorous
migratory flight, they are relatively sturdy. A few scales may come off during handling, but this
will not hurt the butterfly. Many other butterflies and moths are much more fragile.
You may either set your Monarchs free soon after they emerge, or keep them in your classroom
for students to observe and study. If you release them, wait for the wings to dry. Monarchs that
emerge in the morning can be released at the end of the day, or kept until the following day
without needing to be fed. Those emerging in the afternoon should be released the next day. It is
best if they are released on a warm sunny day, near flowers if possible. If it is colder than 60o F,
they often cannot fly.
If you keep the adults, they should have a cage large enough to allow flight. Hanging or wooden
frame cages are examples of cages that work well for adults. Adults do not need to be fed until the
day after they emerge. After this they should be fed daily. They can be fed in a variety of ways.
Fresh cut flowers can be placed in containers and put in the cage, a small dish or jar lid
containing a sponge saturated with a 20% honey/water solution can be set in the cage, or fresh
fruit such as watermelons, honeydew or cantaloupe melons can be cut and set in the cage. These
should be changed daily to prevent fermentation. "Juicy-Juice" purchased from a grocery store
can substitute for the honey water solution. To encourage feeding in any of the above methods,
place the front feet into the solution and the butterfly will sometimes unwind the proboscis and
start feeding. If the butterfly does not unwind its proboscis after several tries, place a probe or pin
in the loop of the proboscis and pull the pin away from the head so the proboscis is extended and
touches the honey solution. Once the proboscis is in the nectar solution, the butterfly is feeding.
Adult mass can be measured using a triple beam balance (nearest 0.1g) or an electronic balance
(nearest 0.01 g or 0.001 g). In both cases the butterfly should be placed in an envelope while it is
being weighed. Be sure to subtract the mass of the envelope. The length of the forewings can also
be measured; measure to the nearest millimeter from where the wing attaches to the thorax to its
tip, or apex. It is interesting to measure both the right and left forewings and to note the degree of
asymmetry (how different the two wings are on each butterfly).
5. Tagging Information
What's involved in the tagging program?
Tag selection - The purpose of the tagging is to associate the location of capture with the
point of recovery for each butterfly. The data from these recaptures are used to determine the
pathways taken by migrating monarchs, the influence of weather on the migration, the
survival rate of the monarchs, etc. Each tagged butterfly must have a tag code (three letters
and three numbers) for this system to work. To insure that they do, we create a series of tag
numbers using numbers and the alphabet. Each year receives its own unique series. After we
decide on a series of tag numbers, we send them to to be printed with waterproof ink on
polypropylene sheets that have special 3M ¨ adhesive on the back. The printed tags are placed
on a backing from which they can be easily removed. They are organized in groups of 25
consecutive numbers. The tags arrive at Monarch Watch on sheets of 25 tags per sheet.
Tag distribution - Tag are purchased in kits. Each kit contains a premigration newsletter,
datasheet, instructions and a multiple of 25 tags, depending on how many are ordered in that
kit. You have the option of ordering kits with just 25 tags up to kits with 500 tags. If you need
more than 500 tags, you will need to order multiple kits. We begin distributing the tags in
August. Northern states and Canada receive their tags first so that they will not miss any
migrating Monarchs. As we distribute the tags, we record the tag numbers issued to each
tagger; the tag numbers issued to each participant are entered into a database on a
computer.
Recording tagging data - With tags and datasheets in hand, participants tag as many
monarchs as they are able and record the date, location and other information onto their
datasheets. It is very important that participants record their name and address on each and
every sheet. If you anticipate tagging more than 25 monarchs, we recommend filling in your
name and address on the datasheets first and then making copies. When data is recorded, the
complete tag number should be used. Without the letter code, tracking is usually impossible.
For example, last year we sent out more than 200 tags with the number series 311 but only
one of these was GAA 311. The datasheets included in the kits have directions and data
examples. If a tag is recovered while tagging, it is important that the information for that tag
is sent in separately. We receive thousands of datasheets each year but just one hundred or
so domestic (U.S. and Canada) recoveries. To find out when the peak of the migration is in
your area, please visit this link: http://www.monarchwatch.org/tagmig/peak.html
Returning the datasheets - Believe it or not, many people receive tags, tag monarchs, and
record data but never return their datasheets. Every spring the Monarch Watch staff spends
countless hours contacting people who have had recoveries but did not return their
datasheets. The data for a recovery is lost unless we are able to verify when, where and by
whom the butterfly was tagged.
As the datasheets are returned, we go through each tagging sheet and verify who received
those tag numbers. If the tag numbers are incomplete, or if there is no name on the
datasheet, we have to track the tags back to who received them and contact them in order to
fill in this missing information (if it is even still available.) The sheets are filed in notebooks in
alpha-numerical order and the information is entered into our tag database. This makes it
easier to search for the tag records for recovered tags.
Recoveries!!! - Most of the recovered tagged Monarchs within the United States and Canada
are found dead by people who know nothing about monarchs or Monarch Watch. In 2004, we
changed the contact information on the tags to a phone number and email address to make it
easier to report recovered tags. Old tags, which should not be used, contain an address. Most
of the recoveries are reported with information on the location, date and circumstance of the
recovery. If this information is not included, we must contact the person who found the tag.
Once we have the tag number for a recovery, we enter the tag and the recovery information
into a recovery database. Then, we use the tag record database to search for the tagging data
and enter that information into the recovery database, too. We then calculate the distance
travelled by that particular monarch. If the tagger has not returned their datasheets, they are
contacted and asked for that information. Once the data is complete, we contact the tagger
and the recoverer to share that information. It is can be viewed online via our website.
What do we do with the data? All of the recoveries are viewable online. We also analyze the
recovery data to test hypotheses concerning Monarch orientation and navigation. These
analyses will be summarized on the web site subsequent to the publication of the articles in
scientific journals.
Why do we tag Monarchs?
Many questions remain unanswered about the fall migration of the monarch population east of
the Rocky Mountains. How do the monarchs move across the continent, i.e. do they move in
specific directions or take certain pathways? How is the migration influenced by the weather
and are there differences in the migration from year to year? We need data to answer these
questions and we need your help! Only through the cooperative efforts of volunteer taggers
will we be able to obtain sufficient recoveries and observations of the migration to answer
these questions. Because monarchs have a certain "charisma" and a fascinating biology and
because its fun to have an excuse to collect butterflies, this project is also a good way to
introduce students to science and have them contribute to a scientific study. Through
participation in this project we also hope to further interest in the conservation of habitats
critical to the survival of the monarch butterfly and its magnificent migrations.
When do you tag Monarchs?
As the length of daylight shortens in mid August and September, monarchs in northern
latitudes, i.e. near the Canadian border, begin to migrate. Monarchs farther south will begin
their journey a few weeks later. Tagging and monitoring should begin in late August in all
regions, with a concentrated effort made in September and early October. A GOOD RULE:
when the wild asters, especially A. novae-angliae, goldenrod and Joe Pye weed are in bloom,
the monarchs are migrating. In much of the lower midwest, migrating monarchs are attracted
in large numbers to a tall late blooming thistle (Cirsium altissimum) several species of
sunflowers and other species of Asteraceae.
Our Tagging Method
We have adopted a tagging system in which the tag is placed over the large, mitten shaped
cell (discal cell) on the underside of the hindwing of the monarch.
This method has proven to be very effective - the rate of tag recovery seems to be higher
than for monarchs tagged on the wing margins (an older method). The discal cell position is
closer to the center of lift and gravity for the butterfly and will not impede flight. More
importantly, this tagging method appears to be less harmful to the butterflies.
In 1997, we developed new all-weather polypropylene tags. They are numbered specifically for
the each tagging season. The new tags are round (9mm in diameter) rather than oblong or
rectangular as in previous years. The tagging method is quite simple - remove a tag from the
backing, place it over the discal cell and position the balls of your thumb and forefinger over
the discal cells on both side of the butterfly, press firmly for two seconds and release the
butterfly after recording the tag number and other information on the datasheet.
How old do you have to be to do this?
Some teachers have expressed concern regarding the participation of young children (second
graders and up) in the tagging project. As it turns out, tagging can actually be easier with the
aid of very small finger tips! Some adults and teachers found that if they held the butterfly,
the children were actually more adept at applying the tags than they were and we've even had
reports of 4 year olds helping by learning how to identify the "boy and girl" butterflies.
How do you capture a butterfly?
You can purchase a good butterfly net or make one. The net should be at least 24 inches
deep, allowing you to trap the butterfly in the deep end of the net without harming it. Don't
bother buying a cheap "kids" net as they generally will result in damage to butterflies.
When in flight, Monarchs are very wary, elusive and difficult to catch. To maximize the number
of Monarchs collected for tagging, it's best to locate Monarchs feeding on flowers or while they
are on the roosts late in the day or early in the morning. Approach each butterfly slowly (from
behind if possible) as sudden movement will startle it into flight. Sweep the net forward
quickly and flip the end of the net bag over the net handle.
You want the butterfly in the deep end of the net. With one hand holding the handle, use the
other hand to collapse the end of the net. There should be enough space at the deep end to
prevent damaging the butterfly.
Flatten the net bag so the wings of the butterfly are closed over its back (thorax) and place
thumb and forefinger over the leading edge of the wings (from outside of net). Next, with the
thumb and forefinger of your other hand, reach in to the net and firmly grasp the thorax.
Remove the butterfly for tagging.
How do you store live Monarchs?
If you collect more monarchs than you can tag immediately, you can store them in a paper
triangle or glassine envelope (stamp envelope). If you need to store the butterfly for more
than a few hours, i.e. overnight or up to 2 days, place the envelope in a plastic box or zip lock
bag in a refrigerator. They'll be fine! Be sure to keep the butterflies in envelopes out of the
sun before you refrigerate them and to keep the butterfly from drying out and dying, place a
damp paper towel in the container.
Is a journal helpful?
Some of our most useful information has been obtained from individuals who simply maintain
a Monarch journal, diary or calendar. In these journals records are kept of the first appearance
of migratory monarchs (those showing strong directional rather than local flight), and the
numbers seen each day, particularly at a roost or roosts, or on flowers in a garden, etc. Many
Monarch Watchers obtain very good quantitative data by counting the numbers of monarchs
passing a given observation site each hour. It would also be useful to record the numbers of
mating pairs seen along with the dates and circumstances of these observations.
6. Data Sheet
PWC Monarch Sustainability Program Data Sheet
Name:
School:
Address:
City:
State:
Email Address:
County:
Date:
Please answer the following questions and email or mail this form back to Pella Wildlife
Company. We are asking for a # number, date observed 4/12/15, or number of captive or
wild #15C this means 15 captive raised, #15 this means 15 wild as examples.
Number of Milkweed Plants Planted #
The date you saw your first Monarch
/
/
Number of eggs #____C # ____W
Number of Caterpillars # ____C
#____W
Number of Chrysalids #____C #____W
Number of Monarchs #____C
Male or Female #____CM
#____W
#____CF #____WM
Number Tagged #____C
#____WF
#____W
The date you saw your last Monarch
/
/
If you are part of the captive breeding and release program we need the following data;
Number of Milkweed plants in program #
Number of eggs produced #
Number of caterpillars produced #
Number of chrysalids produced #
Number of Monarchs produced #
Male or Female #____M
#____F
Release Dates and number released on that day (Use additional paper if needed)
Number tagged #
Date or Dates Tagged
/
/
Did you produce Monarchs over winter? Y N
How many generations were produced #
Data sheets are due by November 30th. You can email or mail the data to;
Monarch@thePWC.info
or
PWC
P.O. Box 642
Altoona, IA. 50009
Your participation helps to Protect, Preserve and Promote Wildlife Conservation in Iowa.
THANK YOU
Comments;
7. Acknowledgements
Live Monarch, Monarch Watch, WI. DNR, J.J. Cardinal,
SKINNER Law Firm