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Fully Updated
Expert DIY tips
Money-saving fixes
Environmentally
friendly ideas
A Practical Guide to
Essential Home Repairs and Maintenance
Contents
1 Know your home 6
8 Floors and staircases 248
A guide to understanding the structure of your house,
assessing its condition and keeping its foundations,
exterior walls, internal walls and ceilings, floors, stairs,
doors, windows, roof and more in top condition.
Floors 250
Staircases 253
2 Basic skills and tools 26
The essential components of a basic tool kit, with
explanations of how to use each tool safely, and clear
step-by-step instructions for the basic DIY techniques
you will need for hundreds of jobs around the house.
3 Home decorating 66
Preparation 68
Painting 78
Wallpapering 97
Tiling 104
4 Floor coverings 114
Preparation 116
Timber floors 118
Floor tiles 126
Vinyl flooring 133
Carpet 137
5 Fixtures and fittings 146
Wall fixings 148
Shelving 150
Curtain poles and tracks 161
Skirtings and mouldings 165
Hanging pictures and mirrors 172
Fitted kitchens 174
9 Electricity, water and gas 258
The electrical system 260
Plumbing 274
Gas 287
Energy efficiency 289
Heating and cooling 291
10 Outdoor maintenance 292
Roofs 294
Drainage 301
External walls 305
External woodwork 309
11 DIY in the garden 314
Garden structures 316
Fences 334
Gates 344
Drives, paths and patios 350
Walls 365
Steps 372
Garden features 374
Using water wisely 375
Outdoor security 377
12 Rules and regulations 378
6 Doors and windows 180
Planning and building control 380
Making internal alterations 382
Making external alterations 384
Home extensions 386
Hiring tradespeople 388
Useful contacts 389
Doors 182
Windows 195
Draughtproofing 208
Security 210
Glossary 390
Index 393
7 Walls, ceilings and fireplaces 212
Walls and ceilings 214
Insulation and ventilation 236
Fireplaces 242
A note to our readers All do-it-yourself activities involve a degree of risk. Skills, materials,
tools and site conditions vary widely. Although the editors have made every effort to ensure accuracy,
the reader remains responsible for the selection and use of tools, materials and methods. Always obey
local codes and laws, follow manufacturer’s operating instructions and observe safety precautions.
Common tiling
Replacing a
problems and cures damaged tile
Laying mosaic tiles
Mosaic tiles come in sheets with
a fabric mesh backing. They are a
good DIY option, being much easier
to fit around obstacles than full-size
ceramic tiles.
Tools Straightedge; spirit level; tape
measure; pencil; notched adhesive spreader;
wood batten; trimming knife; cutting board;
tile-cutting pliers; grouting tools.
Materials Mosaic tiles; tile adhesive;
grout.
Because tiles are so hard-wearing,
they are often used in areas that are
damp, dirty and prone to damage.
There are some common problems to
look out for – treat them promptly to
minimise the damage.
4When you reach an obstacle, such as a
Mould on grout
power point, you can either purchase a box
to keep the power point proud of the wall
and have it installed by an electrician or,
alternatively, have the face plate refixed
on top of the tiles. If you decide to have a
box fitted, you will need to cut out a whole
section of the mosaic tiles using a sharp
knife. After marking the position of the
cuts, lay the sheet of tiles on a cutting
board and run the blade along the gaps
to cut the backing.
5If you do not wish to have a box fitted to
bring the power point away from the wall,
you can get an electrician to remove the old
power point temporarily. Then you can cut
a hole in the wall for the wires to protrude,
tile the area around the hole, and then have
an electrician replace the face plate on top
of the new tiles. Check with your electrician
about the correct position of power points
in wet areas, as laid down in Australian and
New Zealand Standards.
Dark stains on grout lines may be caused
by mould, which thrives in the damp and
warmth of kitchens and bathrooms. Kill
the mould with a proprietary fungicide,
following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Do not use bleach. It will not destroy the
roots of the mould.
Any stains left on the grout can be hidden
by painting on grout whitener. When the
whitener is dry, apply some more fungicide
to prevent further mould.
8When all the tiles are in place, leave the
adhesive to dry for 24 hours. Then grout
the gaps between the tiles. Load a rubberedged grout spreader with grout (use
waterproof grout for bathrooms or kitchens),
and draw it across the tiles. Clean surplus
grout off the tile surfaces as you work.
Before the grout sets, use a piece of slim
dowel or a proprietary grout shaper to
neaten the grout lines (see page 111).
Score and snap
1 Use a batten and spirit level to mark out in
Dirty grout
Clean grease and dirt from grout with
an old toothbrush and liquid detergent
in warm water, or a non-abrasive cream
cleaner. When dry, paint the grout with
a grout whitener.
Missing grout
If you work carefully, it is a fairly
straightforward task to replace a
single cracked tile or remove and
replace one with holes drilled in it
that are no longer needed. You can
also replace interspersed patterned
tiles with matching plain ones to
create a uniform effect.
113
Check the depth
I
f you can see an edge of a tile
anywhere on the existing tiled area,
check how deep the tiles are and
make sure you buy a replacement
to match. If you have to guess, don’t
buy a tile thicker than 4mm or you
risk it sticking out proud of the
surrounding area.
Tools Power drill; large masonry bit; cold
chisel; hammer; safety goggles; work gloves;
notched adhesive spreader; tools for
applying grout.
Materials New tile; adhesive; grout.
Before you start Always wear safety
goggles as protection against slivers of glaze
that are likely to splinter away from the tile
surface as you chip away at the tile you are
removing. Protect your hands with sturdy
work gloves.
1 Drill holes in the centre of the tile you
want to remove, using a power drill and
masonry bit.
If there are gaps in the grout, rake out
all old grout with a proprietary grout rake
(below), a small-toothed tool designed
specifically for the job. Draw the rake
along the grout lines, first vertically and
then horizontally, to remove the old grout
to a depth of about 3mm.
4Butter the back of a new tile with
adhesive, using the notched spreader, and
fit it in place. Put spacers around the tile
to ensure even spacing.
pencil the area you want to tile. This simple
splashback is the height of a sheet of tiles
above the worktop.
2Apply tile adhesive, holding the notched
spreader at an angle of 45 degrees to create
ridges of an even depth.
3Put up the first sheet of tiles, lining it up
with the guideline. Press it into place with
your hand, then use a wood offcut to tamp
the tiles level – especially those at the edges
of the sheet.
Use a small, stiff-bristled brush or a
vacuum cleaner with a narrow nozzle
attachment to remove all the debris
from the joints before regrouting.
6Once you have cut out the section of
tiles, check the fit. There will be gaps, but
you can fill these later. Spread adhesive on
the wall and put the cut sheet in place.
7Lay all the whole sheets until the area is
covered. Then measure the gaps left round
any obstacles. You will need to cut individual
mosaic tiles to fit (see box, right).
I
f you need to cut individual mosaic
tiles to fill narrow gaps around
obstacles, the best tool is a pair of tilecutting pliers. Trim off a strip of tiles
and score a cutting line along the
whole strip. Then detach individual
tiles and use the v-shaped jaws of the
pliers to snap the tiles one at a time.
Crazed tiles
Tiles may become crazed because they are
old, but new tiles may also be affected if
water gets behind them. Nothing can be
done to repair tiles damaged by crazing.
You can paint tiles with special tile paint,
though this is not as tough a finish as the
original glaze. If you have spare matching
tiles, you can remove the damaged ones
and replace them.
2Insert the cold chisel, and hammer from
the holes outwards towards the edges to
get behind the tile. If you need to get more
leverage, pack pieces of scrap timber behind
the chisel as you work. Remove loose pieces
of tile as they break away.
3 When you have removed the tile, carefully
chisel out the old adhesive until you reveal
bare wall. Take care not to damage any
good tiles.
5Lay a straightedge or offcut of timber
across the repair to check that the wall
is flat, adding or removing adhesive
as necessary.
6Use a damp cloth to wipe excess
adhesive from the surface of the tiles.
Leave the adhesive to set for about
24 hours before grouting the joins.
tiling
home decorating
112
Laying carpet with
a separate underlay
It is not worth laying new carpet
yourself. Good-quality carpet is
expensive, and a fitting fee adds little
to the overall cost. But used carpet
is easier to lay as it has already been
stretched once. So if you want to
re-lay an existing fitted carpet, the
job is worth trying.
Tools Hammer and nail punch; tenon saw
or hacksaw; protective gloves; utility knife
(with hooked and straight blades); scissors;
electric staple gun and carpet stretcher (from
a hire shop); clean bolster chisel; metal
straightedge; tape measure.
Materials Gripper strip and nails or
adhesive; naplock (binder bar); underlay (felt
or foam rubber); staples or tacks; enough
carpet to cover the room in one piece; roll of
50mm-wide masking tape; latex adhesive.
Putting down underlay
Laying the carpet
1 In a larger room – or on a driveway or
patio – cut the carpet to the size of the room
to be covered. Add a trimming allowance of
150mm on all sides – more if the carpet has
a pattern. Keep the waste; it may come in
handy for patching later.
2Put the carpet in place on the floor of
6Start the fixing in the corner of the room
with the smaller allowance. Working along
one wall, run your fingers along the top of
the carpet so that it engages on the gripper
pins farthest from the wall. Take care not to
injure fingers on the spikes.
12 When the hooking is complete, excess
carpet will be left lapping up the walls. Trim
this off to 10mm with a sharp utility knife
fitted with a straight blade.
7Do the same along the second wall with
the smaller allowance.
the room where it is to be laid. If it has a
pattern, adjust it so that the pattern looks
true, and does not run off line when seen
from the doorway.
3Make cuts to allow the carpet to lie flat
3Nail the strips to the floor, using a nail
punch if there is any danger that the hammer
head might hit the gripper pins. Construction
adhesive can be used to attach gripper strips
to concrete floors.
in any alcove. Cut the carpet at a right angle
to the back of the alcove and take care not to
cut too far. Leave some excess for trimming
around the alcove.
1 Unroll a short length of underlay in a
corner of the room so that the end and
the side lie against the gripper strip.
4Cut off the surplus riding up the face
of the chimney breast, leaving some excess
for trimming.
13 Push the remainder into the space
8Run the head of your hammer flat along
the top of the carpet, pushing it onto the
other row of pins and forcing the excess
carpet into the space between the gripper
strip and the skirting board.
Fixing grippers
1 Measure the perimeter of the room to
between the gripper and skirting, using
a clean bolster chisel or a timber kitchen
spatula. Take care not to scratch the
paintwork if you are using a bolster.
14Check that the excess carpet on the
other two walls of the room is properly
pushed down, and use the bolster or spatula
where necessary.
15Finally, tap down the cover of the
work out how many gripper strips you will
need. Gripper strips are usually sold in
1.2m lengths.
threshold strip at the doorway using a piece
of waste timber or carpet to protect the
metal from becoming dented.
4When a radiator or the kick board on a
cupboard prevents you from getting close
to the wall, fit the gripper as close as the
radiator or kick board will allow.
leaving an allowance of about 10mm along
two adjacent walls, and an allowance of
about 40mm along the other two.
5When you reach a corner of the room,
cut the strip to length using a saw or chisel.
Be careful not to hurt yourself on the pins.
Heavy gloves will help to protect hands.
Butt-join two pieces of gripper. There is
no need to cut mitre joints at the ends.
Cut small pieces of gripper to fit each
rebated section of the door jamb.
6In a curved area, such as a bay window,
cut the gripper into short pieces to follow
the curve. Secure each piece with two nails
or use construction adhesive.
with the staple gun, or tape the seams with
50mm-wide masking tape and use a small
amount of latex adhesive under the seams
and around the perimeter of the room to
attach the underlay to the floor.
3Roll out the underlay along the edge of
the room, smoothing as you go and fixing
along both edges. Make sure it is perfectly
flat on the floor. It is not necessary to stretch
the underlay.
the underlay up to the edge of the gripper,
even if the gripper has been fitted a little
way out from the wall.
pointing towards the wall. Leave a space
two-thirds the thickness of the carpet
between the gripper and the wall (about
5–7mm in most cases). This is for trimmed
carpet to be tucked into later.
5At the end of the room, trim the underlay
against the gripper strip with a utility knife
or a pair of scissors.
6When you have almost covered the
7At a doorway, fit a naplock (binder bar)
midway under the door.
A
2Fix the edges of the underlay to the floor
4Where a radiator is fixed to the wall, lay
2Put down the grippers with the pins
CUTTING A DOOR TO
CLEAR A CARPET
5Trim off the excess all round the room,
room, you will have to cut the last length
of underlay to width as well as to length.
HELPFUL TIP
When trimming into an alcove it
helps if you make vertical cuts at the
corners. You can then press the carpet
down on to the floor before cutting
off the excess. This makes it easier
to judge the appropriate allowance
to be pushed down later.
9When the first two edges have been
fixed, kneel on the carpet with your back to
one of the completed walls. Push the teeth of
the carpet stretcher into the carpet ahead of
you and ‘kick’ the padded end with your knee
to force the carpet forwards. Move forwards
and repeat once or twice until you are close
to the opposite wall.
10 Hook the carpet onto the gripper pins
with your hand. It will immediately contract
and be firmly fixed in place.
11 Repeat this process three or four more
times across the room until the carpet is
fixed all along one wall. Then turn 90° and
fix it along the fourth wall.
fter fitting a carpet, the base of the
door may drag on the surface.
To fix this, you will need to trim the
base off the door. With the door in
place, take a thin block of timber
the same thickness as the amount of
timber to be removed. Put it on the
floor with the point of a pencil level
with its top and run it along the door
to mark the cutting line.
Take the door off, and either saw
or plane off the base edge. If you use
a hand saw, work slowly to avoid
splintering the face, which will spoil
the appearance of the door.
If you use a plane to do the job,
hold the door upright on its long
edge in a portable work bench and
plane downwards. Work inwards
from each side to avoid splintering
the stiles at the end. Sand the base
of the door so that it will not damage
the carpet.
All the edges of the door should
be sealed with a coat of paint before
it is fitted back into place.
139
CARPET
floor coverings
138
Building a doorway
bookcase
Built-in bookshelves that surround an
existing room feature, such as a door,
can create extra storage space that is
less obtrusive than a freestanding unit.
The best home layouts use the available
space efficiently while providing plenty of
storage. In the living room in this example,
one timber stud wall consists of a sliding
door flanked by narrow columns of unused
space. Bookcases surround the doorframe and
fill the spaces either side. The paint matches
the sliding doors. The measurements are
easily adapted to suit the dimensions of any
space around a door, as the design consists
of two bookcases positioned either side and
a third set of shelves mounted overhead.
159
Building the shelves
The bookcase is built from MDF and trimmed
with ribbed edging. Cut the parts with a
circular saw and straightedge guide or have
them cut by the supplier: full 2400 x 1200mm
sheets of MDF are heavy and won’t fit in the
average car.
The sides of the bookcase boxes are two
layers of 18mm-thick MDF, with the inner
sides stopping 340mm short of the top to
support the overhead unit. The fixed and
adjustable shelves are 25mm thick.
To install the unit, build two plinths for the
bookcase boxes and position the overhead
unit between them. For extra stability, secure
the bookcase to the wall studs at the sides
and above the doorway.
Mark the stud positions on the walls then
transfer the locations to the bookcase boxes
before installing them on the plinths. To give
the unit a seamless look with the sliding
doors, the plinths are clad with skirting to
match the architrave.
Doorway bookcase
Fasteners
measurements in mm
T
o assemble the bookcase boxes
and attach them to wall studs, use
50mm x 8g particle board screws.
Attach the decorative skirting
from inside the plinths using 25mm x
8g screws. Use the same screws to
add the cover panels and backs to all
parts of the bookcase and to secure
the overhead unit to the side boxes.
Drill and countersink 2mm pilot
holes for all screws.
Building the bookcase
Overhead
top
Side
cover
End
Back
Overhead
base
Back
2 Use a 5mm brad point bit to drill 10mm
End
Divider
Trim
Trim
Shelf
Box
side
deep shelf pin holes at the intersections of
the marked lines, using masking tape on the
bit or a depth collar to ensure accuracy. Drill
2mm pilot holes for the fixed shelves right
through the sides.
Top
Doorframe
Side
support
Shelf
Shelf
Fixed
shelf
Fixed
shelf
TOOLS Builder’s square; circular saw;
clamps, combination square; dowelling
(brad point); drill and 5mm drill bit; masking
tape; mitre saw; roundover bit: 6mm;
router; screwdriver; straightedge; tape
measure; twist bits: 2mm, 5mm, 10mm.
Box trim
1 Mark the shelf positions. Position two box
sides face to face, checking all edges are
flush. Mark the shelf hole heights across
both front edges, then square these lines
across the inside faces. Set the blade of a
combination square at 50mm then use it
to mark the shelf pin centres.
Shelf
Shelf
Skirting
Base
MATERIALS
• 2 sheets (2400 x 1200mm) 12mm MDF
• 2 sheets 18mm MDF
• 3 sheets 25mm MDF
• 5 pieces ribbed edge moulding,
2400 x 35 x 8mm
• 1 piece colonial architrave moulding,
2700 x 138 x 18mm
• 40 shelf support pins, 5mm
• 100 screws, 50mm x 8g
• 50 screws, 25mm x 8g
• construction adhesive
• PVA adhesive
Plinth
front
Box trim
Skirting
Plinth
side
380
3 Build the bookcase boxes. Soften the
front edges of the shelves using a router
with a 6mm roundover bit. Position the
top, base and fixed shelf between the sides,
drilling pilot holes to secure with screws.
Build the overhead unit then attach the
backs with screws.
4 Level the base plinths. Position the sides
of each plinth between the front and back,
securing with screws. Position on the floor
and adjust the height with shims until the
tops are level. Run a marker pen along the
floor to mark a trim line on each plinth then
plane down to the line.
50
Cutting list
Part
MDF
Side covers
Box sides
Side supports
Overhead dividers
Overhead top and base
Overhead ends
Top and base
Fixed shelves
Adjustable shelves
Box backs
Overhead back
Plinth front and back
Plinth sides
Tasmanian oak
Overhead trim
Box trim
Primed pine
Skirting fronts
Skirting sides
Size
340
No.
40
2350 x 392 x 18
2350 x 380 x 18
2010 x 392 x 18
380 x 304 x 18
1750 x 380 x 25
380 x 340 x 18
812 x 380 x 25
812 x 380 x 25
810 x 380 x 25
2350 x 848 x 12
1786 x 340 x 12
884 x 140 x 18
356 x 140 x 18
2
4
2
2
2
2
4
2
10
2
1
4
4
340 x 35 x 8
2350 x 35 x 8
1
4
335
902 x 138 x 18
410 x 138 x 18
2
2
335
335
335
335
Fixed
shelf
Side layout
This bookcase is built as two boxes on plinths with overhead shelving.
shelving
fixtures and fittings
158
335
Planning a
new kitchen
Modular or custom-built?
K
itchen cabinets are either
modular or custom-built.
Modular cabinets are generally built
to set sizes or ‘modules’, and are
the sensible choice if your kitchen
is straightforward and you can suit
your selected colour scheme. They are
generally available off-the-shelf, often
in flat-pack form that you assemble
when you get them home. However,
modular units often need some
modifications in order to adapt them
to a particular location. Custom-built
units, as the name implies, are
constructed specially for a location,
so suitability is not an issue.
If you are planning to renovate your
kitchen, take plenty of time to think
the project through. Consult all family
members and visit kitchen displays
to search out features you like.
Before you start There are several things
you will need to consider in order to avoid
making any hasty decisions that you may
regret later. These include:
• The function and character of your new
kitchen. Will it need to be ‘eat-in’, a galley,
L-shaped or a formal arrangement? Do you
entertain regularly?
• Will your new kitchen plans call for some
building work – major or minor? Is this
feasible and can you afford it?
• Can the cost involved be justified, or is
it possible that you might be in danger of
over-capitalising your property?
Select a style which compliments your
home and lifestyle Take care not to design
something that clashes with your home’s
style or its current décor. A sympathetic style
will add to the value of your house. Styles
that are inappropriate can actually have a
detrimental effect on a property’s value.
Compile a wish list Write down all the
Make sure you know the accepted
standard sizes of components Planning
around standards will allow you to make the
best use of materials and fittings, and it is
also easier to produce a workable layout if
you are using modular cabinet sizes. As an
added bonus, most new appliances you buy
should fit into the spaces allowed.
requirements you have for your new
kitchen. Look through kitchen magazines
or search online for inspiration, then make
a scrapbook with pictures of styles and
features that appeal to you. Also visit as
many kitchen showrooms as possible for
ideas on any novel features that could be
incorporated in your final design.
Choose appliances first
600+
200–450
300
Select the appliances and
design your kitchen around
them. Take care not to pick
appliances which may be too
large for the available space,
or unsuitable because of the
kitchen arrangement. Order
the appliances well in advance
and have all the technical
data available to consult
when building them in.
Follow the manufacturers’
recommendations concerning
installation procedures.
Overhead cabinets
350mm deep (max.) overall
0
61
0–
59
720–750
20–40mm
benchtop
overhang
End
panel
00
6
0–
24
0+
Kick board
Scribe to
wall and
floor
Plinth base
850–1050
100–150
• Always refer back to the
manufacturer’s specifications,
or the relevant Standard,
concerning the appliance
installation details and
clearances – especially for
gas stoves.
• Ensure that wall ovens and
fridges are adequately vented.
• If a fridge will project too far
in front of the cabinets, it
may be necessary to recess
it into the wall behind.
• Pay particular attention from
which side doors of cabinets
and appliances open.
Lighting Good lighting will
40
50–80
Points to consider
1960–2400
1150–1250
an
s th
Les 00mm
3
End
panel
450–600
(see notes)
300
STANDARD KITCHEN SIZES
All dimensions are given in mm.
make all the difference to your
new kitchen. Take the time to
work out where concentrated
light will be needed for detailed
work, and where subdued
lighting is preferable, such as
over a dining area, for example.
175
Site preparation
If you are replacing a kitchen, set up
a temporary kitchen in another room.
Alternatively, if the kitchen is part of a
new addition to your house, try to avoid
decommissioning the old one until your new
one is at least usable.
Aim to have the location completely
ready for the cabinets when they arrive.
This means that you will need to coordinate
the plumbing, electrical and wall-finishing.
It’s much easier and faster to paint the
walls beforehand, but resign yourself to
some touching up afterwards.
It is easier and most cost effective to
lay some types of ﬂooring (such as timber)
before fitting the cabinets. It is also a
good idea to get the floor sanded, but
do not apply more than one coat of finish
at this stage, as it is almost impossible to
fit the cabinets without marking the floor.
It is an easy matter to lightly sand the
floor after the installation is complete
and then apply a final finishing coat. Lay
other ﬂooring, such as vinyl or tiles, after
the kitchen is in, but put the underlay
down beforehand.
Designing a kitchen
With time, careful thought, some
research and perhaps a little expert
assistance you can plan a kitchen that
will be a pleasure to work in.
Designing and installing your own kitchen
need not be as difficult as you may first
think, provided you have reasonable DIY
carpentry skills. The job also calls for good
preparation, some homework, patience and
the ability to work accurately and neatly.
If you have any doubts at all about your
ability to tackle a job of this size, you can
always contact one of the many companies
that specialise in custom kitchen design and
manufacture. They will be only too happy to
send a representative around to see you.
Most will design your kitchen free of
charge, often using computer programs that
are able to generate a three-dimensional
view of the design, which will give you a
much clearer idea of how the finished room
will look. However, do not be surprised to
discover that they will only let you keep
their designs when you are prepared to
sign a contract and pay a deposit.
Most kitchen companies will naturally
suggest that you use their designers and
installers, which is reasonable, although
expensive. Above all, do not allow yourself to
be rushed into making a decision. It is a good
idea to take the time to look at a few
different designs, so you can combine the
best features of all of them.
If you decide to do it yourself, shop
around and you will find many kitchen
manufacturers happy to assist with your
design and the job of building cabinets
on a supply-only basis.
All dimensions in mm
Design your kitchen on graph paper or by using a scale ruler and some basic
drawing instruments. At a scale of 1:20 it will fit on an A3 or A4 sheet of paper.
If your kitchen is straightforward, you can
design it entirely by yourself. You will need
to know the sizes of standard cabinets and
how they are constructed, as well as have
the ability to draw accurately to scale.
Cut small pieces of paper to represent
items such as the fridge and stove, and
move them around a graph-paper plan until
you are happy with how the kitchen works.
WHAT ARE QUALITY CABINETS?
A
s a minimum requirement,
cabinets should be made from
high-moisture-resistant (HMR)
melamine-faced particle board and
have solid 12 or 16mm thick backs
(HMR can generally be identified by
the greenish colour of its cut edge). If
possible, specify 1mm-thick ABS
plastic edging on the cabinet edges
and 2mm-thick rigid plastic on
melamine-faced doors.
Cabinets should be secured with
nails and screws – biscuit joints or
cam fittings are also satisfactory.
Choose good-quality hardware,
including the hinges, runners and
drawer systems. Good hardware
should be supplied with a minimum
10 years’ warranty.
Shelves that are more than 800mm
in length should have an additional
support at their centres, or a rail
attached to them, to prevent bowing.
All cabinet material should be cut
neatly and should be free from any
breakouts or chipping.
renovate
with recycled
Material
When you (or your builders) are
sourcing the materials for your
renovation, try to select products
that have some recycled content.
These include materials such
as recycled steel, aluminium,
timber, plasterboard, glass and
insulation products.
This helps to reduce energy
consumption because it takes
less energy to make a product
from recycled materials than
from raw materials – they have
already gone through some of
the necessary processing, while
raws material must be produced
from scratch.
KITCHEN WASTE
Almost a quarter of domestic
greenhouse gases are generated
in the kitchen. When buying
new appliances, choose energyefficient models; recycle glass,
plastic and paper; and compost
vegetable peelings where possible.
fitted kitchens
fixtures and fittings
174
Choosing security locks for your windows
Windows are the main points of entry for burglars. The most common method of
breaking in is to smash the glass and release the catch, but window locks will lock the
frames together, make the handle immovable, or restrain the stay arm. Before buying
window locks, make sure they are suitable for your windows. A lock for timber frames
will come with woodscrews. Locks for metal windows will have self-tapping screws.
Make sure the frames are thick enough to accommodate the device.
Window locks
Sliding aluminium
window lock
These locks come
with an installation
template for accurate
fitting. Sliding window
locks can also be used
on most aluminium
sliding doors.
Keyed window bolt lock
This lock suits sliding, awning
or sash windows and sliding doors.
The keyed window bolt has two
fixing positions
for fitting at
different angles
or into ramped
spaces.
P
Patio bolts
atio bolts –
sometimes also
known as sliding door
bolts – are designed
for use on doors that
slide inside or outside
a flyscreen. The
key-operated bolt
slides into a hole
drilled
in the door track,
allowing you to secure
the door in the fully
closed or partly open
position, allowing
fresh air to enter the
room. They may also
be used on hinged
doors, when combined
with a keeper. Patio
bolts can be fitted
to either the top or
bottom of a door, or
one in each location
if the security threat
is particularly serious.
Securing your
windows
Most windows are fitted with a lock
of some sort, but not all are equally
secure. Those that are most vulnerable
can be further protected with a couple
of simple additions.
Tools Saw; drill and appropriately sized
twist bits.
Materials Length of dowel, 10mm or
more in diameter; steel pin or bolt.
Keyed push window lock
Suitable for use
on awning or
sash windows
made from
timber or
aluminium.
Slimline patio bolts are usually fixed
to the edge of a door, but most can
also be fixed to the face (above).
Awning (crank-opening) windows are hard
to break into without smashing the glass.
Sash and sliding windows are less secure,
since their latches are generally inadequate,
and in the case of sliding windows it is
often easy to lift the entire window out of
its track. The security of both sash windows
and sliding windows can be greatly improved
simply by the addition of a length of dowel
or a steel pin.
1 A length of dowel wedged into the
track of a sash or sliding window is an
effective way of providing some extra
protection against burglars. Cut the dowel
so that it is a snug fit, without being too
tight, otherwise inserting and removing
it will become a nuisance.
Safety tips
Suitable for sash, casement,
or double-hung window
designs made
from steel,
aluminium
or timber.
Laminated glass
Particular windows in a house may
be at risk from burglars. They may be
ground-floor windows hidden from
the neighbours, or they may be
upstairs windows that are accessible
from an extension roof, a drainpipe
or a tree. Fitting laminated glass
would greatly add to the security.
It consists of a sandwich of glass
with a clear plastic film between.
Although the glass may be cracked
by a blow, the plastic will resist
efforts to break through. Do not
use wired glass, because it has
little security value.
An increasing number of plastic
windows are being used in houses,
and they can pose a security problem.
Most manufacturers of security
devices do not recommend them
for plastic windows because a thin
plastic section offers no grip for
screws. If a plastic window frame
is known to have a timber inner
frame, security devices suitable for
a timber frame can be used. If there
are steel inserts within the plastic
section, self-tapping screws could be
used, as for metal frames. But locks
cannot be fitted to hollow sections
of windows filled with rigid foam.
The ideal solution is to consult the
installer of your windows at the time
they are being made.
Securing your
sliding doors
Sliding glass doors are a favourite with
burglars because they are generally
a weak point in a home’s defences.
Tools Electric drill and twist bits.
Materials Round headed self-tapping
t When windows are locked, keep a
Keyed sash window lock
Safety and security
Plastic windows
Keyed window winder lock
This lock will secure an awning
window in a partially open position.
However, to be effective, the size
of the opening should
not be large
enough to
allow a
hand to be
inserted.
211
screws; length of dowel; patio door bolt
with mounting screws.
key in the room so a window can be
opened in an emergency (but out of
the reach of a burglar who may have
smashed the glass).
t Do not permanently screw windows
closed that may be needed as an escape
route in time of fire.
2A steel pin or bolt fitted into a hole
drilled through the upper and lower halves
of a sash window is a cheap and effective
security measure. Make sure the hole does
not extend right through to the outside of
the window, otherwise the pin will be easy
to push out.
SECURITY
Doors and windows
210
As is the case with sash and sliding windows
(see above), the standard locks fitted to
sliding doors are often flimsy and easy to
force. In addition, the doors can sometimes
be lifted out of their tracks to provide easy
entry to a house. One or more of the simple
additions described below will help to
improve security.
1 Sliding doors can often be lifted out of
their track, which can provide an easy entry
point to the house. To prevent this from
happening, drive a couple of screws into
the top of the track, leaving their heads just
protruding. These will have to be removed
to allow the door to be lifted out.
2A length of stout dowel wedged into
the lower track of a sliding door will jam
it shut, making it impossible to open from
the outside. Cut the dowel so that it is a
neat, but not a tight, fit, otherwise it will
be hard to remove, especially if it gets wet.
3Patio (or sliding door) locks provide the
best security. They can be fitted to the door
either on its edge or its face (as below). If you
fit several locks, get them all keyed alike to
make the job of securing the house as easy
as possible.
Repair a leaking
gutter
Installing gutter
screens or guards
Guttering is constantly exposed to
the worst of the weather. Metal,
particularly steel, has a limited life
in such circumstances, and can rust,
causing leaks.
Before you begin, make sure that the
gutters are clean and free of holes,
and that the downpipes are clear and
draining properly.
TOOLS Wire brush or abrasive paper;
scissors or tin snips; paintbrush or putty
knife; work gloves (if required); rivet gun
(for metal patches).
MATERIALS Clean rags and a solvent
(such as acetone); fibreglass or metal patch;
pop rivets (for metal patches).
household shears.
MATERIALS Gutter guards or screens.
2Fill the groove in the end cap with
11 Test fit the downpipe and open or close
3Maintain steady pressure on the end
12 Bend the downpipe to the lap mark,
and drill a rivet hole about 15mm in from
the cut edges.
2 For a fibreglass patch (shown here), use a
paintbrush to apply a thin coat of prepared
fibreglass resin to the gutter. Wear gloves so
the resin can’t touch your hands. For a metal
patch, use a putty knife to spread a 3mm
layer of sealant over the surface.
with a rag. For fibreglass, apply a thin coat
of resin over the patch, wait 24 hours, sand,
and apply another coat. For metal, rivet the
patch at both ends, then spread a layer of
sealant over the edges and leave to dry.
length of the gutters. If there are metal
supports, cut notches in the screens to
accommodate them. If there are overhanging
clips, cut screens into lengths that will fit in
between them.
End cap
Quad gutter
Spout
Replacing
downpipes
Rectangular section downpipe is sold in
straight lengths of 2.4m, 2.7m and 3m.
Many suppliers also sell ready-made,
standard-size bends which you connect
to the downpipe for easy installation.
However, since the eaves overhang on
houses can vary so much, it is often
necessary to make bends to measure.
Tools Hacksaw with medium cut blades;
plumbline and bob; spirit level; metal tape
measure; power drill and 4mm (or jobber)
bit; sealant cartridge gun; tin snips; pop rivet
pliers; pencil; adjustable square; ladder.
Materials Lengths of downpipe as
required; suitable aluminium pop rivets;
roof and gutter sealant.
1 Hold the spirit level up against the base
edge of the fascia board with one end
butting against the house wall. With the
spirit level horizontal, make a mark on the
wall at the upper side of the level.
External corner
(internal corners
also available)
Downpipe
Shoe
board to the lower mark on the wall. Write
the measurement on the wall. That will be
your second cut.
neutral-cure silicone. Attach the end cap
to the gutter by pressing the cap firmly
against the lip, making sure the two parts
are seated together correctly.
As with other parts of the roof drainage
system, downpipes deteriorate over
time and need replacing.
2 Cut the screens or guards to match the
Downpipe
bracket
(astragal)
4Measure from the base of the fascia
9Bend the gutter end of the downpipe
upward, so that the sides are pressed inside
the lower section.
10 Repeat Steps 6 to 9 for the second cut.
Remember this time that you are cutting on
the unseamed side.
the bend a little if necessary. Mark where the
overlapped edge should be.
cap and drill three 3mm holes through the
flange of the cap. Fit the screws and two
3mm-diameter rivets. Wipe away excess
silicone on the outside before it dries.
3 Press the patch into the resin or sealant
Gutter
bracket
angle of at least 15° downward from the
horizontal. As a rule of thumb, if the fascia
board is 225mm from the wall, measure
65–75mm down the house wall from your
mark. This represents about one-third of the
eaves overhang. For a 600mm overhang, the
distance down the wall would be 200mm.
Mark the wall at the appropriate point.
TOOLS Tape measure; metal snips or
of guard or screen as appropriate. If the
gutters have metal supports, measure the
distance between them.
rust with a wire brush or abrasive paper, then
wiping the area with solvent and allowing
to dry. For a fibreglass patch, cut a piece
that will cover the area with an overlap of
50 mm on all sides; for a metal patch, you’ll
need to allow an overlap of 100mm.
1 Prise off the end cap (see diagram on
303
3The downpipe bend should be at an
opposite page for details) and chisel off all
old gutter sealant from both the end cap
and the lip of the gutter. Use a straight-slot
screwdriver that is narrow enough to work
down into the groove of the cap. Wipe all
surfaces clean. Restore any bent adjoining
metal edges with a screwdriver and pliers. Fit
the parts to make sure they will join properly.
Some end caps fit entirely inside the gutter,
others on the outside. The same repair works
for both types.
1 Measure the gutters and buy the lengths
1 Ready the surface, cleaning away dirt or
Replacing gutter end caps
3 Position the screen or guard so that leaves
will be washed straight over the top and onto
the ground below. Eliminate any depression
between the roof and the gutter, as leaves
will build up there and prevent the roof from
draining properly.
2Measure from the underside of the gutter
to the base of the fascia board and add
10mm as a margin for clearance. Pencil
the measurement onto the fascia board
where it will be obscured by the downpipe.
That measurement marks the position of
the first cut.
5Lay out a length of downpipe, seamed
side up. Measure from one end to your first
cutting mark and draw a right angle line
across the width of the pipe. Measure up to
50mm on each side of the cutting line and
draw lines parallel with it. This measurement
will vary according to the angle; less for
wider angles, more for squarer angles.
Extend the centre line down both sides
of the downpipe.
Turn the downpipe over, seamed side
down, and mark the second cut in the same
way. As a precaution, double check at this
point by pushing the downpipe over the
gutter nozzle to see if the mark is where
you want it to be.
13 Apply roof and gutter sealant to the
lapped edges, close the bend and fix them
in place with rivets.
6Cut through the downpipe on the centre
line down both sides, but stop about 2mm
from the base.
7Make a mark on each side of the cut,
about 20mm from the bottom. Join the
outer lines to the mark to form a ‘V’ on
both sides of the downpipe.
8Use your tin snips to cut away all the
metal inside the ‘V’.
14Drill, seal and rivet the second bend
in the same way as the first.
15Wipe off surplus sealant. Fit the
downpipe into the gutter and secure it to
the house wall with brackets (astragals).
drainage
outdoor maintenance
302
Create a paved
courtyard
Paving a courtyard area is a rewarding
job that will maximise the usable space
of a small outdoor area and will be
easy to maintain. Include raised
garden beds into your design to add
colour and hide any unsightly areas.
TOOLs 2 screeding rails; aluminium screed
or timber board; bolster; builder’s square;
hammer; lump hammer; mattock; paint roller
kit & brush; pliers; rake; scrubbing brush;
spade or shovel; spirit level; sponge &
bucket; stringlines; tape measure & pencil;
wheelbarrow; yard broom; safety gear:
earmuffs, glasses, gloves, raincoat.
MATERIALS
• 6 x 20kg bags external wall finish render coat
• 8 white exterior angle beads
• 2 x 4L cans exterior paint
• 2.5m3 packing sand
• 2 pieces F52 steel reinforcing mesh,
6.0 x 2.4m
• 2.6m3 of 15/10 paver bed mix
• 35m2 of 300 x 300mm clay pavers
• 1⁄4 tonne fine beach sand
• 2 x 20kg bags cement
• 1⁄4 tonne soil; 3 black plant pots
• 10 x 20kg bags of path pebbles
• 12 assorted plants: agaves, cordylines, lime
353
• 2 x 375g tubes construction adhesive
• 17.5L/m timber screen slats
• 10 stainless steel garden lights
• To hire: bricksaw, concrete mixer
Designing a courtyard
T
Before you start
Before beginning a project of this scale,
you should consider the following:
• How you want to use your space
• Movement of the sun
• Views or sightlines to add to your setting
• Gardens and plants to add colour
• Unusual shapes in paths, paving, lawns
or garden beds
• Main traffic and entrances to gates, steps
and doorways.
Measuring up the courtyard
Before ordering concrete, paving sand or
pavers, you first need to calculate the area
to be paved. Square or rectangular areas
are the easiest – just multiply the length by
the width to find the area. Pavers are sold
by the square metre. Allow for 10 per cent
overs, in case of breakage, and for any
pavers that will need to be cut.
Concrete is sold by the cubic metre (m3),
so you need to measure length x width x
depth. You can order a concrete mix made
especially for paving, which will be more
economical than normal concrete.
Bedding sand or packing sand can be
ordered by the tonne or cubic metre. Allow
about 25mm depth for the sand. Talk to
your local landscape supplier to find out
what’s suitable for you.
1 The brick boundary wall in this example
needed to be rendered before painting.
Prepare the brickwork by hosing it down
then removing any debris with a coarse
scrubbing brush. Once dry, attach exterior
angle beads with construction adhesive,
to ensure a straight finish on the edges.
2Dampen the wall again with the hose,
and lay down plastic dropsheets to catch
any fallen render.
3Mix up render in a bucket by adding
12 parts fine washed beach sand, 2 parts
Portland cement, 1 part fire clay or lime,
and a capful of plasticiser. Make sure you
add enough clean water to the render
mixture to give it a creamy consistency.
6With traditional render, there is a 28-day
curing time. If using acrylic render, you can
paint the next day. When the rendered
surface is ready for painting, apply two
coats of textured exterior paint (which has
fine sand mixed into it), allowing the paint
to dry between coats.
8Work out the finished paving height.
Peg out the new area and run stringlines
around the pegs. Then mark the finished
height of the paving on each peg with
a permanent marker, allowing 75mm for
concrete, sand and paver height (Diagram 2).
Nail scrap lengths of timber together to create
the formwork needed for the concrete slab,
using a spirit level to check the fall needed
for adequate drainage.
he lower level of the split-level
backyard in this example consisted
of patchy grass, an old water sump
and an old brick wall – with a Hills
Hoist clothesline in the centre.
Where to begin? Think about how
much sun the area receives during the
day – this will affect which plants you
choose, whether to retain part of an
existing lawn, and how any outdoor
furniture will be positioned.
How you access and generally
move about an area is an important
consideration; also walls, buildings,
clotheslines or other elements you
may wish to hide from sight. Feature
walls or screens, climbing plants on
trellises, and cleverly placed shrubbery
or specimen plants are all good
options for shielding the eye from
an undesirable view.
Whatever the design plan, there
are plenty of ways to style your
courtyard to suit your needs. The
design style chosen in this instance
included clean lines, light-coloured
pavers, a brightly coloured feature
wall and an easy-maintenance garden.
The sculptural foliage plants helped
to refresh the setting and separate
this area from the main yard, while
adding some colour to the space.
Rendered wall
4Use a board and steel trowel to apply
the render mix. Work from the top, applying
render with short upward strokes then
smooth the surface in a circular motion. Let
the render set slightly then screed with a
straightedge, holding it vertically and working
left to right in a sawing motion. Fill any
depressions and smooth the surface again,
leaving it to harden for up to 15 minutes.
5Sprinkle the wall lightly with water then
smooth in a circular motion using a timber
float, using a small metal trowel on corners.
Smooth the render as it firms and dries,
rubbing the surface in a circular motion
with a flat sponge.
Acrylic render does not require
the normal 28-day curing period
before painting. You can apply
a fresh coat of paint the next day.
Pot
Stackbond
paving
7Excavate the entire area to be paved,
removing any old concrete and other rubbish
(hire a skip bin for the waste). Depending on
the site, you may need to buy in some earth
to raise part or all of the area. Enlist a helper
and level the area with shovels. Set a couple
of stringlines across the entire area to doublecheck that the ground is roughly level –
otherwise you may run short of concrete.
Stepped
edge
9The concrete slab in this example was
reinforced. Steel reinforcing mesh comes
in 6.0 x 2.4m rectangles. Cut it into shape
using a pair of bolt-cutters. The reinforcing
sits in the concrete and prevents it from
cracking. After laying the reinforcing inside
the formwork, tie it together with pliers
and wire ties.
Diagram 1 Design layout
Diagram 2
Setup profile
Pavers
HELPFUL TIP
Pebbles
Sand
Concrete
40mm
25mm
75mm
HELPFUL TIP
Concreting is heavy work, so park
that truck as close as possible
to the site to reduce the amount
of wheelbarrowing.
DRIVES, PATHS AND PATIOS
DIY IN THE GARDEN
352
Reader’s Digest
Fix it Yourself!
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