Color Manual
Color Manual Table of Contents 1 Discover Kenra Color pages 2 - 3 2 Hair fundamentals pages 4 - 7 3 Kenra Color pages 8 - 12 4 Permanent Color pages 13 - 21 5 Demi-permanent Color pages 22 - 25 6 Color Support pages 26 - 28 7 Technical Application Reference pages 29 - 30 DISCOVER Kenra COLOR® A COLOR PALETTE WITH NO BOUNDARIES Kenra Color® from Kenra Professional® makes it easier than ever to achieve Simply Stunning Results®. This highperformance, straightforward and easy-to-use haircolor line produces consistent, reliable results that stylists can count on. Kenra Color is committed to providing you all the tools needed for true-to-tone haircolor solutions on every client, every time. For high performance, Kenra Color incorporates Balancing Complex 5®, our proprietary blend of five essential haircolor attributes designed to meet the needs of stylists and clients alike. We are committed to providing each of your clients with results that far exceed their expectations. Kenra Color is supported by an education platform ensuring straightforward, easy-to-use haircolor that is infused with artistic influence and inspiration. Ease meets artistry through our unique haircolor fundamentals including the Five Step Approach to Color Formulation and Elements of Design, our signature guide to haircolor application. The Kenra Color portfolio includes both Permanent and Demi-permanent offerings, each with a balanced shade collection of warm and cool tones that are intermixable for basic to advanced color formulation. Kenra Color provides unlimited haircolor versatility allowing the stylist to be as technical or as creative as they want. Like Kenra®, Kenra Platinum® and Kenra Smooth®, Kenra Color maintains our commitment to the professional beauty industry. We continue to deliver high-quality, performance-driven, professional haircare solutions to help deliver the results you and your clients have come to expect. Kenra Color® Manual 1 1 Discover Kenra Color Notes KENRA COLOR FROM KENRA PROFESSIONAL Why Kenra Color? Kenra Color was developed with both the professional stylist and their clients in mind. This highperformance haircolor line produces consistent, reliable results that stylists can count on to provide true-to-tone haircolor solutions on every client, every time. You can color confidently for Simply Stunning Results both you and your clients have come to expect. We know you have options when choosing a color line. We have worked hard to develop a system that not only meets your needs, but far exceeds your expectations. Performance – Our product offers consistent, reliable, true-to-tone haircolor solutions to meet all of your haircoloring needs. Kenra Color provides vibrant, long-lasting color and outstanding coverage and color saturation ensuring full gray coverage. Our gentle formulation leaves your hair with improved condition and manageability, and intense shine. Ease of Use and Superior Education – Our education platform outlines our Five Steps to Color Formulation ensuring our system is straightforward and easy for you to use. Kenra Professional will continue to provide the same level of superior education, training and customer support that you’ve come to expect. Artistic Influence – Ease meets artistry through Elements of Design, Kenra Color’s signature guide to haircolor application. It supports the Five Steps or Less Approach to Haircolor Application and unites inspiration and formulation with technical application. Value – Professional haircolor services remain the largest and most powerful category for growth. Kenra Color provides unparalleled value and will positively impact your bottom line while providing an incredible value for your client. Versatility – Kenra Color provides all the tools needed to be as technical or as creative as you want offering a newfound freedom to create customary looks for each and every one of your clients. Kenra Color is truly a color palette with no boundaries. What is Kenra Color? Kenra Color incorporates Balancing Complex 5, a proprietary blend of five essential haircolor attributes. 1. Vibrant, long-lasting color 2. Intense shine 3. Improved condition and manageability 4. Gentle formulation 5. Outstanding coverage and color saturation 2 Discover Kenra Color Kenra Color Portfolio Notes The Kenra Color portfolio provides you all the tools needed for consistent, reliable, true-to-tone haircolor solutions. Whether you are just starting your career or you are an experienced colorist, we’re confident Kenra Color will give you the versatility to create Simply Stunning Results. Our portfolio includes: - Permanent Coloring Cremes in a gentle, low-ammonia formulation available in a wide array of warm and cool tones that deliver vibrant, long-lasting results and outstanding coverage and color saturation including full gray coverage - Demi-permanent Coloring Cremes formulated without ammonia providing an extremely gentle formulation for improved condition and manageability with intense shine - A Permanent Blonding Category including a variety of offerings such as our Kenra Color Lightener Collection, High Lift Series and the extremely versatile Blonding Creme - Permanent Color Boosters available in five shades designed to increase color vibrancy or give special effects to any Kenra Color Permanent formulation - Demi-permanent Rapid Toners available in four no ammonia shades designed to process and tone in 5 minutes or less - Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes available in three shades for use in color corrective services to replace underlying pigments prior to Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent coloring - A Color Correcting System to gently, quickly and safely remove oxidative pigments - A variety of Color Support Tools including Porosity Equalizing Spray and Stain Removing Wipes Kenra Color® Manual 3 2 Hair fundamentals HAIR STRUCTURE The success of any haircolor service depends on the coloring products and techniques selected by the stylist, as well as understanding the physical nature of the hair itself. This section explores the fundamentals of hair – its structure and unique characteristics – and their role in the haircolor process. At Kenra Professional, we believe that understanding the structure of your client’s hair is just the beginning of the overall consultation process. Each strand of hair has three main components: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla. Cuticle The cuticle refers to the outside layer of the hair shaft. It is composed of transparent, overlapping and protective scale-like cells. The cuticle protects the inner structure of the hair. A healthy, flat cuticle layer promotes strength, shine and the overall appearance of the hair. Cortex The cortex is the center part of the hair and makes up the majority of the hair shaft. It gives the hair its special qualities such as elasticity and curl. The cortex is packed with strands of keratin that lie along the length of the hair. Oxidative pigments are developed or oxidized in the cortex with permanent and demi-permanent haircolor. Medulla Finally, the medulla is the canal-shaped innermost part of human hair. It has no known function and not all hair contains a medulla. Cuticle Cortex Medulla Cross-section of hair strand 4 Hair fundamentals HAIR CHARACTERISTICS Notes Texture Texture is the diameter of the individual hair strand. Determining hair texture by touching and visually examining it tells you what the hair can and cannot do on its own. Texture is generally referred to as fine, medium or coarse. Fine Medium Coarse Density The density of the hair is determined by the number of active hair follicles per square inch on the scalp and determines how much color mixture is needed for the color service. It can influence the look of color because it affects the way light is reflected or absorbed. Thin Medium Thick Kenra Color® Manual 5 2 Hair fundamentals - continued Porosity Did you know? Using Kenra Color Porosity Equalizing Spray prior to Permanent or Demi-permanent color services ensures even pigment absorption on hair with uneven or high porosity. Porosity refers to the ability of hair to absorb and hold liquids. Some factors that contribute to hair’s porosity include past chemical services, environmental damage and mechanical (hot tools and brushing/combing) damage. Accurately judging the hair’s porosity is critical for color and developer selection. All haircolor durability is related to the porosity of the hair, which is usually described as low, average, or high. Low porosity may cause the hair to absorb color at a slower rate whereas high porosity absorbs color quickly and also tends to fade away more readily. Notes Low porosity High porosity Formation Did you know? Wavy or curly hair can look less reflective because it can absorb light and color. Create the perfect canvas for a Kenra Color service by offering these types of clients a Kenra Smooth service. What’s more, complete both services in one salon visit, saving time for your client and creating a greater revenue opportunity for you, the stylist. Hair formation refers to its shape and pattern. It can influence the look of color because it affects the way light is reflected or absorbed. Forms of hair are described as straight, wavy or curly. Follicle Shape Hair Pattern Color Reflection Straight hair begins with a straight hair follicle and has a sphere-shaped hair strand. It is generally more reflective because of its solid, smooth surface. Wavy hair begins with a curve in the hair follicle and has an oval-shaped hair strand. It can absorb light and may look less reflective. Curly hair begins as a curved hair follicle and has a flat/oval-shaped hair strand. It can absorb light and may look less reflective. 6 Hair fundamentals HAIRCOLOR FUNDAMENTALS Hair Strand Notes Pigment Types Direct Dyes – These are color pigments that can actually be seen. They do not require an oxidative agent (hydrogen peroxide). Direct dye pigments are typically larger and remain on the outer portion of the hair shaft. They can have a staining effect on the hair. Indirect Dyes Indirect Dyes – These are also called oxidative or intermediate dyes. They require an oxidative agent such as hydrogen peroxide to develop the pigments. The pigments Direct Dyes oxidize within the cortex of the hair shaft. Haircolor Categories Haircolor type Oxidative agent Color penetration Ammonia Chemical hair change Semi-permanent No Coats the cuticle and penetrates the outer layer of the cortex. None Uses large, direct dyes and does not alter natural pigment. Demi-permanent Yes Penetrates the cuticle and multiple layers of the cortex. None Can be a combination of direct and indirect pigments and is deposit only. Fades gradually and washes out to the original color of the hair. Permanent Yes Fully penetrates Usually contains the cortex. After the some amount of color is oxidized, ammonia. the cuticle closes and the color stays inside which gives the hair its new color. Permanently alters the hair shaft and can cause movement or lift of natural melanin and deposit in one process. Kenra Color® Manual 7 3 Kenra Color Notes THE LAW OF COLOR Primary Colors – Three colors that make up all other colors (yellow, red, blue). Secondary colors – A mix of two primary colors (orange, violet, green). Tertiary colors – A mix of a primary color and a secondary color (yellow orange, red orange, red violet, blue violet, blue green, yellow green). Complementary colors – Colors found opposite of each other on the color wheel. In haircolor, they have several important functions: - They neutralize or cancel out the other one when they are mixed together, and produce a neutral color, such as dark gray or brown - They neutralize any unwanted tones in the hair. For example, a blue-based color eliminates unwanted orange tones - They also complement each other when placed side by side Kenra Color Level System The Kenra Color Level System denotes the degree of darkness or lightness of the hair. It ranges from 1-10 with 1 representing Level 10 Extra Light Blonde 09 Light Blonde the darkest form of brown (referred to as Black) and 10 08 Blonde indicating the lightest (referred to as Extra Light Blonde). 07 Medium Blonde Note: This system does not observe level two because 06 Dark Blonde levels below three are difficult to differentiate to the 05 Light Brown human eye. 04 Medium Brown 03 Dark Brown 01 Black Kenra Color Shade Identifier Dominant Color The Kenra Color shade identifier is easy to read and follows a standard numerical and alphabetical identification system. Number = Level Identification First Letter = Dominant Color Reflection Second Letter = Secondary Color Reflection 8 Level Secondary Reflection Kenra Color Shades and Tones Notes Kenra Color offers a variety of shade families in a balanced collection of warm and cool tones to meet the needs of any client. Each shade series allows for ease of mixing and delivers intense shine and maximum coverage. Natural: Combination of the three primary colors calibrated at the designated Shade Chart level to achieve full gray coverage (Permanent) and natural gray coverage up to NNatural 75% (Demi-permanent). The proper amount of the Natural Series should be added NA into any formulation to achieve gray coverage (see Gray Coverage chart). Natural Ash AAsh Natural Ash: Calibrated at each level to optimize gray coverage and neutralize AA Ash Ash warmth. Covers and blends gray while controlling underlying pigment in SM Silver Metallic a single process. B Brown / Beige BC Brown Copper Ash: Neutralizes unwanted warmth to produce a cooler end result. The Ash Series is formulated to neutralize underlying pigment. GGold GB Gold Brown / Beige Ash Ash: Increased ash pigments for added neutralization CCopper of unwanted warm tones. CG Silver Metallic: Cool blue tones supported by blue violet secondary reflection. RRed Copper Gold RR Red Red RB Red Brown RC Red Copper Brown Copper: Warm brown dominant tones supported VR Violet Red by copper secondary reflection. RV Red Violet Brown/Beige: Warm reflective brown tones from levels 4-7 and beige tones for levels 8-10. Gold: Adds warmth to any color, increased light reflection and a natural gold tonality. Gold Brown/Beige: Dominant gold tones with secondary brown undertones. VViolet PV Pearl Violet Clear Gloss (no pigment) Copper: Brilliant warm red / orange tones. Copper Gold: Dominant reflective copper tones with secondary gold reflection. Red: True red tones for maximum vibrancy. Red Red: Superior vibrancy and pure red end results. Red Brown: Dominant red tones supported by secondary reflection of brown. Red Copper: Dominant red tones supported by copper undertones for vibrancy. Violet Red: Dominant violet tones supported by red undertones for cool vibrancy at darker levels. Red Violet: Dominant red tones supported by cool violet undertones. Violet: Pale violet tone to reduce or tone unwanted yellow. Pearl Violet: Combination of blue violet and violet tones to neutralize unwanted yellow-gold tones. Kenra Color® Manual 9 3 Kenra Color - continued NATURAL KENRA COLOR SHADE CHART P = Permanent 1N P/D 3N P/D 4N P/D 5N P/D 6N P/D 7N P/D Natural Ash 5NA P/D 6NA P/D 9N P/D 7NA P/D 8NA P/D 1A D 4A P/D 7AA P 7SM P 8AA P 8SM P 10 7A P/D 8A P BROWN COPPER 5B P/D 6B P 7B P/D 8B P/D 10B P/D 4BC P 6BC P 7BC P GOLD BROWN 6G P/D 7G P COPPER 5C P/D 6A P/D 10SM P GOLD 5G P 5A P SILVER METALLIC BROWN 4B P/D D = Demi-permanent 10N P/D ASH ASH ASH 6AA P 8N P/D 8G P/D 9G P 10G D 5GB P COPPER GOLD 6C P/D 8C P/D 5CG P/D 7CG P/D 8CG P 9CG P 8GB P/D 9GB P/D 10GB P 9A P 10A P/D Kenra Color RED RED RED P = Permanent D = Demi-permanent 4R P/D 5R P 6R P/D 7R P 4RR P/D RED BROWN 4RB P 5RB P/D 7RR P RED COPPER 6RB P 7RB P/D VIOLET RED 3VR P/D 6RR P/D 5RC P RED Violet 3RV P 5VR P/D Clear 5RV P 6RC P/D VIOLET Pearl Violet 10V D 9PV D 6RV P High Lift Gloss D Gold Natural P Natural P Pearl Ash P Ash P Blonding Creme P RAPID TONER SV D VP D CR D GC D Copper P Gold P Violet P Booster Red P Blue P Kenra Color® Manual 11 3 Kenra Color - continued ELEMENTS OF DESIGN REMEMBER All of our Kenra Color techniques utilize Elements of Design and can be completed in 5 steps or less. You have access to all of our application guides and our latest artistic collections online at kenracolor.com. Elements of Design is Kenra Color’s signature guide to haircolor application. It supports our 5 Steps or Less Approach to Haircolor Application and unites inspiration and formulation with technical application. For Kenra Color, it’s truly where ease meets artistry. Foundation Color: Primary overall color; incorporates 75% or more of total color. Anchor Color: Supportive color designed to influence contrast of the Foundation Color and is usually within 1 to 2 levels of the Foundation Color. Accent Color: Emphasis colors to draw the eye to a particular area creating contrast Notes and can be used as both a highlight and lowlight. Accent Color Anchor Color Foundation Color 12 4 Permanent Color KENRA COLOR PERMANENT PORTFOLIO Gentle, low-ammonia color available in a wide array of multidimensional tones that deliver consistent, reliable results. 1. Features Balancing Complex 5 2. Provides vibrant, long lasting results REMEMBER Kenra Color does not recommend the use of a dryer, steamer or accelerator drops for processing. 3. Full gray coverage 4. Intense shine Permanent Coloring Creme and Developer Notes Kenra Color Permanent Coloring Creme Developers were specially formulated for use with Kenra Color Permanent Coloring Cremes. Available in 10 Volume (3%), 20 Volume (6%), 30 Volume (9%), and 40 Volume (12%) strengths to ensure proper lift of natural hair and oxidation of dye intermediates. Creamy consistency allows for precise application for all of your haircolor needs. Our standard mixing ratio and processing time for Kenra Color Permanent Color is one part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer (1:1) for 30 minutes at room temperature. If you are processing gray hair, mixing ratio remains the same; however, you will want to process up to 40 minutes. Kenra Color Permanent Color Mixing Ratio One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer (1:1) 1 + 1 Processing Time 30 Minutes Processing Time for Gray Coverage Up to 40 Minutes Developer Levels of Lift 10 Volume (3%) Tone-on-tone / deposit only* 20 Volume (6%) 1 level of lift / deposit / gray coverage* 30 Volume (9%) 2–3 levels of lift* 40 Volume (12%) 3–4 levels of lift* *Based on texture, density, and porosity. Kenra Color® Manual 13 4 Permanent Color - continued Underlying Pigment REMEMBER The final result of any haircolor service relies on a blend of the color selected by the stylist and the contribution of underlying pigment. Notes Underlying pigment refers to the undertones that are exposed anytime natural haircolor is lifted. Generally, this affects the outcome of a color formulation when there is lifting of two or more levels and the volume of developer selected affects underlying pigment exposed in the lifting process. It is often necessary to add a neutralizing color into a formulation to ensure control of an unwanted underlying pigment. Use this cart to determine what underlying pigment will be exposed at the level you are coloring to and what neutralizing color can benefit your color formulation. Level Underlying Pigment Neutralizing Color 10 Extra Light Blonde Pale Yellow Ash, Violet or Silver Metallic 09 Light Blonde Yellow Gold Ash or Pearl Violet 08 Blonde Light Gold Ash or Silver Metallic 07 Medium Blonde Gold Ash or Silver Metallic 06 Dark Blonde Gold Orange Ash 05 Light Brown Orange Ash 04 Medium Brown Dark Orange Ash 03 Dark Brown Red Orange N/A 01 Black Darkest Red Orange N/A Gray Coverage Gray hair is typically more % of Gray % of Natural Series % of Desired Color resistant to coloration 25% 25% 75% 50% 50% 50% 50–100%* 75% 25% because it has a harder cuticle layer. It is often thought to be very healthy and void of all natural *When hair is 80% gray or more, 20 Volume Developer is recommended. pigment, but in reality, gray hair is the lightest form of the three primary colors and requires increased pigmentation for coverage. Kenra Color Permanent Natural Series provides the essential balance of pigments to ensure even color saturation and maximum pigment uptake and should be incorporated into all gray coverage formulations for full gray coverage. Mixing ratio remains at one part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer (1:1); however, suggested processing time is up to 40 minutes. 14 Permanent Color 5 EASY STEPS TO COLOR FORMULATION Notes Kenra Color streamlines the art of haircolor formulation with five easy steps that provide consistent, reliable results on every client, every time. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 Step 5 Finalize the formulation Step 1: Determine the natural level of the hair - Analyze the client’s natural level by holding the Natural Series swatches against the client’s regrowth area and determine which one achieves a blend of the same level. - Remember, you are only looking for the level of the natural hair, not the tonality. - If the natural hair level falls between two levels, choose the lighter level when depositing color (going darker), or the darker level when lifting color (going lighter). Step 2: Determine the desired level / desired tone - Select the appropriate color shade utilizing your swatchbook for reference. Step 3: Define levels of lift, deposit, or tonal change - Use the developer / levels of lift chart to determine the Developer required to ensure proper lifting during the coloring process. Step 4: Determine the percentage of gray - Identify the correct percentage of gray to assess how much of the Kenra Color Natural Series should be incorporated into the formulation. Reference our gray coverage chart. - When hair is 80% gray or more, a 20 Volume Developer is recommended. - The recommended processing time is up to 40 minutes. Step 5: Identify the underlying pigment - Determine the underlying pigment at the desired level you are coloring to. - Assess whether it will enhance the desired color shade and tone or if you will need to add a neutralizing color to the formulation to control the underlying pigment. Reference our underlying pigment chart. Kenra Color® Manual 15 4 Permanent Color - continued Notes STANDARD COLOR FORMULATION EXAMPLES Example 1: Lift The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 5 (1 level lighter) with a rich brown tone. The client has 0% gray hair. Formulation Notes: 1: The natural level is 4 2: The desired level / desired tone is 5B Processing Time 30 Minutes 3: The level of lift is 1 4: The percentage of gray is 0 5: The underlying pigment is not a factor (only one level of lift) Final Formulation: ______________________________________________________________________________________ Recap: The natural level is a 4 with no gray. The desired level and tone is 5B. Because only one level of lift is required, the formulation uses Developer 20 Volume, and the underlying pigment does not impact the desired tone. The mixing ratio is equal parts of Developer 20 Volume and 5B. Processing time is 30 minutes. Example 2: Deposit The client is a natural level 7. The desired level is 6RB (1 level darker) with a rich red brown tone. The client has 0% gray hair. Formulation Notes 1: The natural level is 7 2: The desired level / desired tone is 6RB 3: The level of deposit is 1 Processing Time 30 Minutes 4: The percentage of gray is 0 5: The underlying pigment is not a factor as color is being deposited, not lifted Final Formulation: ______________________________________________________________________________________ Recap: The natural level is a 7 with no gray. The desired level and tone is 6RB. Because it is 1 level darker, the formulation uses Developer 10 or 20 Volume and underlying pigment is not a factor. The mixing ratio is 1 part 6RB plus 1 part Developer 10 or 20 Volume. Processing time is 30 minutes. 16 Permanent Color Notes Example 3: Gray Coverage The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 5 (1 level lighter) with a rich brown tone. The client has 50% gray hair. Formulation Notes: 1: The natural level is 4 2: The desired level / desired tone is 5B Processing Time 40 Minutes 3: The level of lift is 1 4: The percentage of gray is 50 5: The underlying pigment is not a factor (only one level of lift) Final Formulation: ______________________________________________________________________________________ Recap: The natural level is a 4 with 50% gray. The desired level and tone is 5B. Because only 1 level of lift is required, the formulation uses Developer 20 Volume, and the underlying pigment does not impact the desired tone. The mixing ratio is 1 part 5N plus 1 part 5B plus 2 parts Developer 20 Volume (See Gray Coverage chart). Processing time is 40 minutes. Example 4: Underlying Pigment The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 7 (3 levels lighter) with a brown tone. The client has 0% gray hair. Formulation Notes 1: The natural level is 4 2: The desired level / desired tone is 7B 3: The level of lift is 3 Processing Time 30 Minutes 4: The percentage of gray is 0 5: The underlying pigment is gold Final Formulation: ______________________________________________________________________________________ Recap: The natural level is 4. The desired level and tone is 7B. For three levels of lift, the formulation requires Developer 40 Volume. To balance the exposed gold underlying pigment, a neutralizing color (ash) is incorporated. The 7A helps to control the gold tones at a level 7 (See Underlying Pigment chart). The mixing ratio is 1 part 7A plus 1 part 7B plus 2 parts Developer 40 Volume (Note: The amount of the neutralizing color can vary as desired). Processing time is 30 minutes. Kenra Color® Manual 17 4 Permanent Color - continued BLONDING WITH KENRA COLOR Did you know? Kenra Color Silver Metallics allow you to display your artistic abilities, creating cool, silver appearances in lighter colored hair while helping to neutralize underlying pigment. Available in 7SM, 8SM and 10SM and can be used on pre-lightened hair to achieve a cool, silver result. Kenra Color Lightener Collection Kenra Color offers two lightener Developer Choices Application options to meet the needs of 10 Volume (3%) On or off the scalp 20 Volume (6%) On or off the scalp 30 Volume (9%) Off the scalp stylists and clients alike. Kenra Color Lightener features a blue-violet base to help control unwanted warm tones when lifting and Kenra Color No Ammonia Lightener is a fragrance-free, white powder formulated without ammonia. Each dust-free lightener powder can remove natural or artificial pigments, both indirect and direct to help eliminate unwanted tones such as ash or red and have a lifting strength of up to 7 levels in a single application. Extremely versatile, each lightener can be applied both on and off the scalp with Kenra Color Permanent Developer 10 – 30 Volumes in different ratios for multiple blonding effects – 10 and 20 Volume on the scalp and 10, 20 and 30 Volume off the scalp. Each Notes mixture’s creamy consistency retains moisture and is drip-free for ease of use. Kenra Color Lightener COLLECTION Mixing Ratio One level scoop plus one part Developer (up to 1:3) Processing Time Check result regularly during processing. Do not exceed 60 minutes. 18 Permanent Color High Lift Notes Kenra Color High Lift Series provides the ability to create superior single process blondes achieving 4-5 levels of lift with maximum neutralization of underlying pigment. These four shades feature a specially developed base to support lighter lifting and neutralization of underlying pigment, each providing the same lifting strength with varying degrees of neutralization of underlying pigment. Achieve best results on level 6 and above, but the series can also be used on level 5 for a warmer end result. Our standard mixing ratio and processing time for Kenra Color High Lift is one part Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2) for 45 minutes at room temperature. Shade Used on Natural Level Developer Volume Timing End Result Gold Natural Level 6 30 or 40 45 Minutes Golden Natural Blonde Natural Level 6 30 or 40 45 Minutes Natural Blonde Pearl Ash Level 6 30 or 40 45 Minutes Cooler Blonde Ash Levels 5 or 6 30 or 40 45 Minutes Coolest Blonde Kenra Color PERMANENT HIGH LIFT Mixing Ratio One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2) 1 + 2 Processing Time 45 Minutes Example: Standard Formulation The client is a natural level 6. The desired level is 10 (4 levels lighter) for a Golden Natural Blonde. The client has 0% gray hair. Formulation Notes: 1: The natural level is 6 2: The desired level / desired tone is 10 Golden Natural Blonde 3: The level of lift is 4 4: The percentage of gray is 0 5: The underlying pigment is pale yellow Final Formulation: ______________________________________________________________________________________ Recap: The natural level is 6. The desired level and tone is 10 Golden Natural Blonde. To achieve this level of lift, Developer 40 Volume is required to mix with the High Lift Gold Natural (See High Lift chart). The underlying pigment at a level 10 is pale yellow and is addressed with the pale blue violet neutralizing pigments. The mixing ratio is 1 part High Lift plus 2 parts Developer 40 Volume. Processing time is 45 minutes. Kenra Color® Manual 19 4 Permanent Color - continued Notes Blonding Creme Kenra Color Blonding Creme provides extra lifting support. It features the same specially developed base as the Kenra Color High Lift Series; however, it does not contain any neutralizing pigment, therefore it will have a warmer end result. Blonding Creme is extremely versatile and can be used for a couple key haircoloring needs. First, it can be used for natural accent effects, or highlights, when mixed one part Blonding Creme with two parts Developer (10, 20, 30 or 40 Volume). Second, Blonding Creme can be added into any Kenra Color Permanent formulation (up to ¼ of total color portion) for added lift, achieving ½ - 1 level of additional lift. Blonding Creme Mixing Ratio Formula% For ½ - 1 Level of Lift 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme 1 oz. Permanent Developer ¼ oz. Blonding Creme (up to ¼ of color portion) Natural Highlighting 1 oz. Blonding Creme 2 oz. Permanent Developer EXAMPLE: Standard Formulation for adding Blonding Creme to a permanent color formulation The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 8 (4 levels lighter) with a copper tone. The client has 0% gray hair. The underlying pigment exposed is light gold at a level 8. Formulation Notes: 1: The natural level is 4 2: The desired level / desired tone is 8C 3: The level of lift is 4 4: The percentage of gray is 0 5: The underlying pigment is light gold Processing Time for Lift 30 Minutes Processing Time for Natural Highlighting Up to 45 Minutes Final Formulation: ______________________________________________________________________________________ Recap: The natural level is 4. The desired level and tone is 8C. To achieve this level of lift, Developer 40 Volume is required. ¼ ounce of Blonding Creme is added to 1 ounce of Permanent Coloring Creme for additional lift. The underlying pigment is light gold. The mixing ratio is 1 part 8C plus 1 part Developer 40 Volume plus ¼ ounce Blonding Creme. Processing time is 30 minutes. 20 Permanent Color Color Boosters Color Boosters are designed to create Notes custom, signature color shades. Booster Shade Effect They can be used in any Kenra Color Gold Additional gold reflection to any level Permanent formulation for increased Blue Blue enhancement to level 5 and below Violet Violet reflection to level 6 and below Copper Added copper reflection to any level Red Enhanced red reflection to levels 7 and below color vibrancy or as a stand alone shade for special effect coloring on prelightened hair. Available in five shades, each formulated with specifically balanced color dyes to make it easy to create signature haircolor or special effects. For increased color vibrancy, color boosters can be added into Booster Use Mixing Ratio Formula For Increased Vibrancy 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme any of your Kenra Color Permanent 1 oz. Permanent Developer formulations up to ¼ of your color Add up to ¼ oz. Color Booster portion. For special effects, or a stand 1 oz. Color Booster alone shade, our standard mixing ratio and processing time is one part Special Effects 1 oz. Permanent Developer Apply to dry, previously lightened hair Permanent Color Booster plus one part Developer (1:1) for 30 minutes at room temperature. Example: Increased Vibrancy The client is a natural level 5. The desired level is 6 (1 level lighter) with a vibrant copper tone. This client has 0% gray hair. Mixing Ratio: One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer 10–40V (1:1) plus Copper Booster above 1:1 mixing ratio. Formulation Notes: 1: The natural level is 5 2: The desired level / desired tone is 6C 3: The level of lift is 1 Processing Time for Increased Vibrancy 30 Minutes 4: The percentage of gray is 0 5: The underlying pigment is gold orange Final Formulation: ______________________________________________________________________________________ Recap: Based on the natural level 5 hair, the Developer 20 Volume is needed to get 1 full level of lift. The underlying pigment from a level 5 to a level 6 is gold orange (Note: The underlying pigment does not need neutralization; it will add to the end result in a positive way). To achieve the intense copper tone, the Copper Booster is added to the overall formula. Processing time is 30 minutes. Kenra Color® Manual 21 5 Demi-permanent Color Notes KENRA COLOR DEMI-PERMANENT PORTFOLIO Deposit only color formulated without ammonia providing multiple service options for maximum creativity. 1. Features Balancing Complex 5 2. Formulated without ammonia 3. Natural gray coverage up to 75% 4. Provides vibrant, long lasting results 5. Intense shine Kenra Color Demi-permanent Coloring Creme Activator was specially formulated for use with Kenra Color Demipermanent Coloring Cremes allowing for complete oxidation of all pigments in each and every color formulation. Our standard mixing ratio and processing time for Kenra Color Demi-permanent Color is one part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Activator (1:2) for 5-25 minutes at room temperature. 1 + 2 22 Kenra Color DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR Mixing Ratio One part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Activator (1:2) Processing Time 5-25 Minutes Application Apply from scalp to ends Demi-permanent Color Kenra Color Demi-permanent Service Options Notes Kenra Color Demi-permanent provides you multiple service options allowing for maximum creativity and profitability. Color Enhancing Service Offer a color enhancing service to enhance any natural color tone or deepen an existing color tone. First determine the client’s natural level, and then choose the appropriate tone to accentuate, neutralize or deepen. Use the standard Kenra Color Demi-permanent mixing ratio and processing time. Color Equalizing A color equalizing service is used anytime a client requires a permanent retouch service on their new growth and needs a corresponding formula to be used on the mid-shaft to ends. Kenra Color DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR Mixing Ratio 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme plus 1 oz. Developer 1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus 2 oz. Activator Note: This service requires two separate formulations (Permanent and Demi-permanent) Processing Time 15-25 Minutes Application Apply Permanent formula to new growth and process for 15 minutes. Then, apply Demi-permanent formula from mid-length to ends. Tips: - On porous hair, spray the ends with Kenra Color Porosity Equalizing Spray. Then, apply Demi-permanent Coloring Creme on mid-length and ends of hair. - Demi-permanent Clear can be added to any formulation to dilute the deposit amount of the pigment while providing maximum shine. Kenra Color® Manual 23 5 Demi-permanent Color - continued Gray Blending DID YOU KNOW? A Clear Gloss Service is a great option to offer your client that regularly schedules haircuts only or for your highlighted blondes looking for increased shine. The Kenra Color Demi-permanent line delivers natural gray coverage up to 75% in a no ammonia formulation. This is the perfect suggestion for clients who do not want to commit to a permanent haircolor. Formulating with the Natural or Natural Ash Series ensures optimal gray coverage. 1 + 1 Kenra Color DEMI-PERMANENT GRAY BLENDING Mixing Ratio Natural Series - One part combination of desired Demi-permanent Coloring Creme shade and Natural Series plus one part Demipermanent Activator (1:1) Natural Ash Series - One part desired Natural Ash Demi-permanent Coloring Creme shade plus one part Demi-permanent Activator (1:1) Notes Processing Time Up to 25 Minutes Application Apply to dry hair Clear Glossing Clear Glossing services add intense shine and increase manageability for previously colored, lightened or highlighted hair. Kenra Color Demi-permanent Clear Gloss features Balancing Complex 5; however, this deposit-only formulation is clear so it can be used on any hair type or color for maximum shine and improved condition. 1 + 2 Kenra Color CLEAR GLOSSING SERVICE Mixing Ratio One part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Activator (1:2) Processing Time Up to 25 Minutes Application Apply glossing formula to freshly shampooed and conditioned towel-dried hair Toning Toning Services are recommended to tone Toning Service Shade Selections Warm Blonde Toning 10G / 8C / 8G Cool / Pastel Blonde Toning 10A / 10V / 9PV selections are available in warm and cool Natural Blonde Toning 8GB / 9GB options each ensuring maximum shine and Beige / Blonde Toning 10B / 8B unwanted warmth for highlighted or previously lightened hair and can take as little as five minutes at the shampoo bowl. Shade condition on any pre-lightened hair. 24 Demi-permanent Color Rapid Toners / Dimensional Toning Notes In addition to Kenra Color Demi-permanent Toning services, Kenra Color also offers Demi-permanent Rapid Toners designed to process and tone in 5 minutes or less. These no ammonia, deposit-only colors have been formulated to enhance blonde levels 8, 9 and 10 or to be a multi-dimensional tone refresher for any haircolor. They offer versatility for adding multi-dimensional tones in four warm or cool shades. 1 + 2 Kenra Color RAPID TONERS / DIMENSIONAL TONING Mixing Ratio 1 oz. Demi-permanent Rapid Toner Coloring Creme plus 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator Processing Time 5 Minutes or less Application Apply from scalp to ends to freshly shampooed and conditioned towel-dried hair Rapid Toner Shade Effect Golden Copper Toning with a gold copper reflection and result Copper Red Toning with a copper red reflection and result Violet Pearl Toning with a violet pearl reflection and result Silver Violet Toning with a silver violet reflection and result Kenra Color® Manual 25 6 Color Support Notes Color Corrective Services Color Corrector The Color Correcting System gently, quickly and safely removes oxidative pigments without disturbing the natural pigments in the hair. Its two-part, non-bleach formulation mixes into an easy-to-apply cream and can be used with or without heat. The removal process can be repeated up to a total of three times and a color service can be performed immediately after the color correcting process. Kenra Color COLOR CORRECTOR SYSTEM Mixing Ratio One part Lotion 1 plus one part Lotion 2 mixed in equal parts Processing Time 20 Minutes Application Apply to dry hair and process under heat or at room temperature Technical Application 1. Perform a strand test for accuracy and capability to remove unwanted color. 2. In a non-metallic bowl or mixing bottle, mix one part Lotion 1 with one part Lotion 2 (mixing ratio 1:1). The total amount of mixture required depends on the length of the hair that needs correction. 3. Apply a plastic cap over hair and process 20 minutes. (Heat option: Place under medium heat to accelerate the process. Check periodically.) 4. Rinse hair thoroughly. Cleanse hair with an appropriate shampoo - Kenra Clarifying Shampoo is recommended. Then, apply Demi-permanent Coloring Creme Activator or Permanent Coloring Creme Developer 10 Volume to the hair for 3 minutes to neutralize. Rinse thoroughly. 5. If sufficient color has not been removed or if the haircolor has become darker, repeat the process on damp, towel-dried hair. You can reapply color corrector up to 3 times in one day. 6. Shampoo and condition thoroughly. An appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner are recommended. Dry the hair and proceed with your Kenra Color application. 26 Color Support Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes Notes Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes are designed for use in color corrective services to gently replace underlying pigments prior to Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent coloring and are ideal for achieving results two or more levels darker than existing level. These color cremes are specifically formulated to mix with water for proper oxidation of the pigments and ideal product viscosity. Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes support the consistent, reliable results of Balancing Complex 5 and are available in three intermixable shades to meet your color corrective needs. - Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Red: when coloring with all red or violet shades and when coloring back using dark natural shades (levels 1 - 3) - Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Copper: when coloring with all copper shades and when coloring back using medium natural shades (levels 3 - 6) - Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Gold: when coloring with all golden shades and when coloring back using light natural shades (levels 6 - 8) Level Pale Yellow Pre-Pigment Creme 10 Pale Yellow None 09 Yellow Gold None 08 Light Gold Gold 07 Gold Gold 06 Gold Orange Gold and Copper 05 Orange Copper 04 Dark Orange Copper 03 Red Orange Copper and Red or Red 01 Darkest Red Orange Red Kenra Color PRE-PIGMENT Mixing Ratio One part Pre-Pigment Coloring Creme plus one part water 1 + 1 Processing Time 10 Minutes Application Spray hair with Kenra Color Porosity Equalizing Spray and apply pre-pigment color. Towel blot excess Pre-Pigment Coloring Creme from hair. Apply desired Kenra Color Permanent or Kenra Color Demi-permanent formulation. Kenra Color® Manual 27 6 Color Support - continued Notes Color Support Products Kenra Color offers a range of Color Support Products to maximize your color experience and ensure Simply Stunning Results. Each of these tools can be incorporated into any Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent color service. Porosity Equalizing Spray Porosity Equalizing Spray ensures even pigment absorption on hair with uneven or high porosity. This gentle, lightweight formula also assists in conditioning and detangling the hair and is designed for use prior to a Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent color service. Porosity equalizing spray Application Spray in sections and comb through for even distribution. For fine hair, select 1” sections. For medium hair, select ½” sections. For thick hair, select ¼” sections. Stain Removing Wipes Stain Removing Wipes gently remove unwanted color on the skin that may occur during color services. Formulated with Aloe Vera to provide gentle use on all skin types. STAIN REMOVING WIPES Application Open the package and remove the wipe. Gently massage over the stain on the skin to remove color. Follow with a damp cloth. 28 7 Technical Application Reference Kenra Color makes it easier than ever to achieve Simply Stunning Results. Reference our Notes technical application section for a synopsis of Kenra Color Permanent and Demi-permanent service options with related technical support. Kenra Color Permanent Service Options Services Formulation Permanent Coloring Creme and Developer Formulation: One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer (1:1) Processing time: 30 Minutes, up to 40 Minutes processing time for gray coverage Lightener Formulation: One level scoop plus one part Developer (up to 1:3) Processing time: Check result regularly during processing, do not exceed 60 minutes High Lift Formulation: One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2) Processing time: 45 Minutes Blonding Creme Formulations: For ½ - 1 Level of Lift, mix 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme, 1 oz. Permanent Developer and ¼ oz. Blonding Creme (up to ¼ of color portion). For Natural Highlighting, mix 1 oz. Blonding Creme and 2 oz. Permanent Developer. Processing time: 30 Minutes for Lift, up to 45 Minutes for natural highlighting Color Boosters Formulations: For increased vibrancy, mix 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme, 1 oz. Permanent Developer and add up to ¼ oz. Color Booster. For special effects, mix 1 oz. Color Booster and 1 oz. Permanent Developer. Processing time: 30 Minutes for increased vibrancy Note: Use the appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner at the end of every Permanent Color Service to assist in color retention and help maintain the healthy condition of hair. Kenra Color® Manual 29 7 Technical Application Reference - continued Notes Kenra Color Demi-permanent Service Options Services Formulation Enhancing Formulation: 1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator Application: Apply formula from scalp to ends Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes Equalizing Formulation: 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme + 1 oz. Developer 1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Activator Note: This service requires two separate formulations (Permanent and Demi-permanent) Application: > Apply Permanent formula to new growth for 15 minutes > Then apply Demi-permanent formula from mid-length to ends Processing time: 15-25 Minutes Gray Blending Formulations: Natural Series: 1 oz. Combination of desired shade and Natural Series + 1 oz. Demi-permanent Activator Natural Ash Series: 1 oz. Natural Ash Series + 1 oz. Demi-permanent Activator Application: Apply formula to dry hair Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes Clear Glossing Formulation: 1 oz. Demi-permanent Clear + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator Application: Apply to dry or towel-dried hair Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes Toning Formulation: 1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator Application: Apply toning formula to freshly shampooed and conditioned hair Processing time: 5-25 Minutes Toning with Rapid Toners Formulation: 1 oz. Rapid Toner Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator Application: Apply to freshly shampooed and conditioned damp hair. Processing time: 5 Minutes or less Note: Use the appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner at the end of every Demi-permanent Color Service to assist in color retention and help maintain the healthy condition of hair. 30 Notes Kenra Color® Manual 31 Notes 32 A color palette with no boundaries. KENRA COLOR Need more information? We are here to help. (800) 930-7777 technicalsupport@kenra.com kenracolor.com k e n r a p r o f e s s i o n a l . c o m Volume 2 Item #96006-0414
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