www.cossma.com Downloads PRODUCTION all formulations at www.cossma.com/download or you can yust scan the QR code! Your access codes for November: User name: cossma11 Password: new In response to the trend where people are looking for more natural cosmetics GemmoNova is the first cosmetic ingredient benefiting from both the ancient knowledge linked to gemmotherapy and the modern Bud Nest technology. The ingredient, with its anti-ageing properties, is obtained from safflower buds grown in a contaminationfree environment. α 30 photos: IMCD P ollution changes the whole ecosystem and can pose a serious threat to human health through pollutants in the soil, in the water or in the air. It can alter plant metabolisms affecting crop growth and yield which makes it difficult to harvest completely pollution-free crops at present. Bud Nest technology is a pollution-free cultivation technology for renewable plant stocks. In a controlled environment it facilitates cultivating and harvesting of plants which are pesticide-free, fresh and rich in nutrients, during a short period, and which are also free from disease and insects. Regardless of natural disasters such as drought, flood and cyclones, the plants can be cultivated all year round. And, α as the plants are not affected by the weather or the soil, they can maintain the same quality, crop after crop, as well as a similar content of compounds. GemmoNova (PD), is the alliance of gemmotherapy – a therapy with buds – and Bud Nest technology in which safflower buds are grown in a contamination-free environment. This is a standardized safflower bud extract based on water and propanediol. First of all screening in-vitro tests were conducted to validate the product’s potential as an antioxidant, an anti-allergenic, and more interestingly its anti-ageing properties. Particularly promising was its effect on pro-collagen type I. In an ex-vivo study performed on full human skin (dermis + epidermis) skin explants were at first treated every 2 days during 10 days with a placebo cream and a cream containing 3% of GemmoNova (PD). After this, an immune-labelling with 2 antibodies (human anti-collagen I and anti-elastin) was carried out. Image analysis by microscope enabled quantification of the density of collagen I and elastin fibres in the dermis. GemmoNova (PD) had a positive effect on collagen I in the full dermis and on elastin in the papillary dermis. The cream with the active ingredient significantly increased the collagen I density by 73 % compared with the control. Immuno-labelling of elastin is particularly visible on oxytalan and elaunin fibres in the papillary dermis. After 10 days of treatment, the cream induced a significant increase of 31% of the elastin density compared with the control. These test results showed the benefits of GemmoNova (PD) as anti-ageing active and its effects on the firmness and elasticity of the skin. In a complementary clinical study to evaluate the anti-wrinkle and firming effects of a 2% GemmoNova (PD) cream a panel of 32 mature and deeply wrinkled women, aged from 45 to 60 applied the product twice daily on their face over a period of 56 days. In one of the two different evaluation techniques the skin’s mechanical properties on the cheeks were measured before and after treatment. Ballistometry was chosen as the best technique to substantiate the skin rebound. On average, GemmoNova (PD) increased skin elasticity and firmness by 28 %. The best result even showed an improvement of 68% for one volunteer. www.cossma.com Secondly, the fringe projection technique to substantiate the effect on deep crow’s feet wrinkles showed that GemmoNova (PD) significantly reduced skin rugosity. The roughness due to ageing was reduced by up to 41% and the wrinkle amplitude up to 19%. Wrinkle area and volume were respectively decreased by 12% and 20% on average. One volunteer even showed an improvement of 52% on the wrinkle area and 79% on the wrinkle volume. Combining gemmotherapy and Bud Nest technology led to the creation of GemmoNova by growing safflower buds, containing all the power of the future plants in a concentrated form, in a contamination-free environment. Safflower buds were chosen because thanks to their active compounds, such as proline or 8’-hydroxyarctigenin, anti-ageing properties could be expected. The different steps in the efficacy evaluation of the active ingredient successively demonstrated the impact on elastin fibres, collagen I fibres and their precursors, and the final benefits on skin firmness and elasticity, as well as the anti-wrinkle effect. The active ingredient is thus capable of providing replenishment to mature women suffering of skin sagging. 1 Daniel Zohary and Maria Hopf, Domestication of plants in the Old World, third edition, Oxford: University Press, 2000, p.211 2 Kim Eun-Ok, Analysis of Functional Compositions and Bone Proliferative Effects of GerminatedSafflower Seeds, Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Graduate School, Catholic University of Daegu, 2008, p.19–24 Additional information can be found on the Internet – see Internet box INSPIRED BY NATURE Created for natural cosmetics ECOCERT COMPLIANT HYDREÏS SYNER-GX 3 in 1 active ingredient Soft-touch thickener Repair effect Restructuring Viscosity accelerator Stabilizes formulations Moisturizing Clinically tested With a silky feel to the skin 100% natural and botanical Distributed by IMPAG Import GmbH Fritz-Remy-Straße 25 D-63071 Offenbach am Main Tel.: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 0 Fax: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 90 E-Mail: kosmetik@impag.de Web: www.impag.de IMPAG Group Country Offices Switzerland/ Zurich – www.impag.ch Germany/ Offenbach – www.impag.de France / Nancy – www.impag.fr Poland/ Warsaw – www.impag.pl www.cossma.com Ingredients Safflower power buds for beauty Social Media How social media have their effect on people and brands Market Survey Who supplies what in the field of packaging? 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