The Celebration Journal No. 1 2009 1884 BETWEEN HISTORY AND ETERNITY 125 years of Italian jewellery by Amanda Triossi, Curator of the upcoming Bulgari exhibition at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Rome Years of research in the Bulgari archives have come to fruition with an in-depth look at the history of this extraordinary brand and what it represents in the world today. The assembly and analysis of historical documents has enabled us to reconstruct a remarkable story that spans centuries and international borders, tracing the course for the taste of innovation and detail that has become an unmistakable style in its own right. Bulgari occupies a significant chapter in the history of jewellery making, which begins with Sotirio Bulgari, the company’s founder. The uniqueness of his vision; the originality of his incorporation of classical Greece and Rome into the ethos of his own time; the boldness of his journey, like a modern-day Odyssey, that would take him to Corfu and Naples and finally to the capital of the newly unified Italian Republic, have even older and deeper roots. Born in 1857 in the Epirus Mountains, the range crossed by the Acheron (the River Styx of legend) and presided over by the Temple of Zeus at Dodona, Sotirio Bulgari was raised in a world of myth and metal smithery, a vital art of his region handed down from Byzantine times. The power of the GrecoRoman vocabulary on the one hand and nearly 2,000 years of technical mastery on the other equipped the young Sotirio with courage, vision and a special sensitivity to the artistic tenor of world around him that enabled him to challenge both geographical and stylistic boundaries. Until the early decades of the 20th century, Bulgari was an advocate of the Art Déco movement that was destined to change the taste of the entire Western world and from that point forward has continued to introduce key technical and aesthetic innovations to the field. After the extravagance of the fifties and the chromatic renaissance of the following decade, Bulgari captured the glamour that lay at the heart of the Pop Art movement during the seventies, and then changed the way we make and think about jewellery yet again in the wild eighties by introducing the prêt-à-porter concept to the luxury sector. In more recent years, long and tireless research has culminated in the creation of an historical archive and a permanent collection of landmark Bulgari jewels which recount and explain the monograph that is Bulgari’s rich history. This massive effort required the reorganization of a cultural heritage comprising many thousands of documents, photographs and original sketches, along with selecting and locating the finest Bulgari creations of the past 125 years, many of which had to be tracked down and reacquired with no small amount of difficulty. Such a wealth of fascinating historical material, brought together for the first time, naturally had to be shared with the public: thus, the retrospective which I have the honour of curating. The exhibition, which opens in Rome in late spring, will celebrate both the founder and the history shared by Bulgari and the Eternal City. Moreover, 2009 marks the 125th anniversary of the opening of the first Bulgari shop in Rome. It is here that a new vision began to grow and spread. Today, Bulgari is the premiere maker of coloured gemstone jewellery in the world, and its style, founded on the Roman distillation of the Greek heritage, is recognized everywhere, unmistakable in all its many evolutions. The Palazzo delle Esposizioni, built just a few hundred meters from the places where the young Sotirio Bulgari, in those same years, established his reputation as a master jeweller, will display 400 of the best jewels, watches and decorative objects produced by Bulgari throughout its history. The majority have never been seen before in public, having spent decades in private collections and safes. Additional works from the private Bulgari Vintage Collection will also be exhibited, alongside drawings, historic documents and photographs of famous clients: businessmen, aristocrats, artists, film stars. In short, an exhibition not to be missed, whether one be an aficionado of history, a devotee of this most magnificent of Italian luxury brands, or simply eager to share in the glamour that Bulgari has epitomized for more than a century. Portrait of Sotirio Bulgari The importance of roots by Paolo Bulgari, President of the Bulgari Group In such a delicate historical moment as this, characterized by uncertainty the world over, it is nonetheless important for us to revisit our roots and celebrate 125 years of a history that partakes three different centuries. In 1884, when my grandfather Sotirio founded the company that continues to bear his name, the world was clearly a very different place. So, the opportunity to commemorate his tenacity and the determination of the generations that followed – my father Giorgio, his children, our nephew Francesco – thanks to which the company has prospered, is understandably a source of pride. Even more satisfying is the knowledge that the values of one man, passed on to us, his family, have since become values shared by the thousands of people who work for Bulgari in numerous countries around the world. The conviction that aesthetic beauty enriches people’s lives, an uncompromising commitment to quality, and a respect for everyone who collaborates with the company have always been the values that guide us, and thanks to this we shall look forward to our next 125 years with optimism and serenity. 1965: necklace with precious and semi-precious stones in contrasting colours. 38 carats of turquoise, 88.50 carats of cabochon-cut emeralds, 22 carats of cabochon-cut amethysts and 72 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds. 2009 1884 REWRITE THE FUTURE AND SAVE THE CHILDREN Bulgari and its clients give their support to eight million of the world’s most vulnerable children by Charlotte Petri Gornitzka, General Secretary of the International Save the Children Alliance I would like to thank Bulgari for its support for Save the Children’s «Rewrite the Future» campaign. By taking part in the campaign, Bulgari and its clients will make a difference to some of the most vulnerable children in the world. Save the Children is the world’s biggest independent international organization working for the promotion and protection of children’s rights. Founded in 1919, we work in more than 120 countries around the world, with a network of national organizations. The international secretariat, the International Save the Children Alliance serves in a consulting capacity on the United Nations Economic and Social Council. Save the Children is developing hundreds of programs in the areas of education, emergency response, healthcare, nutrition and protection against child labour and abuse. We put pressure on governments and institutions to put the children’s rights sanctioned by the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child at the centre of their policy. Through the «Rewrite the Future» campaign, Save the Children has made a commitment to ensure that, by 2010, eight million children living in countries ravaged by war will get a good-quality education. Already, our campaign has created a solid foundation for long-term change in the lives of nearly six million children. We have built schools, supplied teaching materials and protected children from all forms of violence. A silver ring, featuring an engraving of the Save the Children logo on the inside, has been created specially for the «Rewrite the Future» campaign. The ring bears witness to the commitment of Bulgari, and all those who wear it, to Save the Children and to the children we support. Joseph, 10 years old, embraces his books in a school in Bahr el Ghazal, southern Sudan. Foto: Save the Children Foto: Save the Children Valerio Neri, General Director of Save the Children Italia; Charlotte Petri Gornitzka, General Secretary of the International Save the Children Alliance; Francesco Trapani, CEO of the Bulgari Group. The elementary school of Busamba, in the Rwenzori mountain range, has only four trees to demarcate the ‘classrooms’. If it rains, school is over. Save the Children is funding a new building in this area. www.bulgari.com 2009 1884 BEING PART OF HISTORY MEANS BEING ABLE TO CHANGE IT A concrete commitment to improving the children’s future by Francesco Trapani, Chief Executive Officer of the Bulgari Group For Bulgari, the best way to celebrate its 125th anniversary is to participate, with joy and dedication, in Save the Children’s «Rewrite the Future» campaign, which is aimed at providing education, and thus a better future to millions of children suffering from the consequences of war and conflict. This is an initiative that is both unprecedented in scale and totally consistent with Bulgari’s commitment to the education of young people around the world, an ambitious project of concrete solidarity whose goal I hope we will not only achieve but, with the help of our clients and Save the Children’s supporters, even surpass. Save the Children is the world’s foremost international organization for the protection of children’s rights. Bulgari has chosen to offer support to one of its most important campaigns by collecting ten million euros, one of which has already been donated, with the rest coming in over the course of the year. Each of the silver rings that we have dedicated to Save the Children will be transformed into schools, teacher training courses and programs to protect children from violence and to reintegrate child-soldiers into society. In addition to the silver ring, Bulgari has created a limited collection of special pieces of high jewellery and watches with an overall value of three million euros. This collection will be officially presented in Rome at the retrospective hosted by the Palazzo delle Esposizioni in celebration of the brand’s 125th anniversary and later at major Bulgari events around the world, after which it will finally be put up for auction in New York at the end of 2009, with all proceeds going directly to Save the Children. I take this opportunity to thank the numerous celebrities from the worlds of music, film and culture who are supporting this initiative alongside us, including Benicio del Toro, Julianne Moore, Ben Stiller, Sting, Sally Field, Willem Dafoe, Alain Delon, Isabella Rossellini, Andy Garcia, Jim Belushi, Jason Lewis, Eros Ramazzotti, Giuseppe Tornatore, Laetitia Casta, Terrence Howard, Hugh Jackman, Gabriele Muccino, Ellen de Generes, Portia de Rossi, Kimberly Pierce, Alessandra Ferri, Fabrizio Ferri, Valeria Golino, Rosario Fiorello, Giuseppe Fiorello, Jennifer Esposito, Vittoria Puccini, Cristiana Capotondi, Lena Headey, Debra Messing, Leonard Goldberg and Paolo Maldini, all of whom understand that it is only by working together that we can rewrite the future. 1. Willem Dafoe, 2. Giuseppe Tornatore, 3. Rosario Fiorello, 4. Jason Lewis, 5. Fabrizio Ferri, 6. Alessandra Ferri, 7. Isabella Rossellini, 8. Valeria Golino, 9. Vittoria Puccini. A silver ring for Save the Children The ring created by Bulgari in support of Save the Children’s «Rewrite the Future» campaign is as special as that which it symbolizes. On the outside it bears the name of Sotirio Bulgari, the founder, who 125 years ago launched the epic history of a brand that would soon become renowned the world over. The choice of silver – unusual for Bulgari, which has long favoured gold – is a tribute to Sotirio Bulgari’s origins as a silversmith. On the inside is the Save the Children logo as a reminder to its wearer of the ring’s purpose. The ring will be available for sale from February 1 to December 31, 2009 in all Bulgari stores around the world and in selected department stores at 290 euros, 50 of which will go to this vital and worthwhile campaign for the protection and education of millions of children. Silver ring for Save the Children. www.bulgari.com Advertisement from the ’60s, Bulgari Historical Archive.
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