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How to Guide
Contents
Products ........................................................................................................................................................ 3
Milk Paint .................................................................................................................................................. 3
Historic Understanding of Milk Paint .................................................................................................... 3
Brief overview of Milk Paint .................................................................................................................. 4
Characteristics of Milk Paint ................................................................................................................. 5
Coverage ............................................................................................................................................... 5
Bonding Agent............................................................................................................................................... 6
Finishes ......................................................................................................................................................... 7
Hemp Oil Wood Finish .............................................................................................................................. 7
Furniture Wax & Antiquing Wax ............................................................................................................... 7
Wax Pucks ..................................................................................................................................................... 7
Workshop ...................................................................................................................................................... 8
The Chippy Look ...................................................................................................................................... 11
Products
Milk Paint
Historic Understanding of Milk Paint
When we first heard the words milk paint, your curiosity is provoked. Some may think that this is a new
product, as they have never heard of such a thing, however it is quite the opposite. Milk Paints, or
otherwise known as Casein paints have been used for thousands of years.
Historically Milk Paint was made with coal, berries and milk, all found easily at hand. There is evidence
of milk paint dated back 30,000 years in cave paintings in Australia and was found on decorations inside
King Tut's tomb. The paint was commonly used to aid creative self-expression, as well as a protective
coating on furniture and porous surfaces. Milk paint is considered simple to make, with the primary
components being milk, lime and earthen pigments found in clay.
Milk paint was used in all geographic areas of the ancient world, due to its simple recipe and availability
of the ingredients. People of different geographic areas and time periods experimented with the simple
milk paint recipe to create more colours and increase the decorative longevity of painted objects.
Casein, a protein found in milk, remained the primary ingredient for all milk paint recipes. Ingredients,
which were often added to the milk paint formula, each with varying results, included olive oil, eggs,
wax, linseed oil and glue made from animal hides.
Artists in colonial America packed paint pigments and a lime with them as they explored the new land in
search of inspiration. Once an artist discovered a setting or object to paint, they would buy milk from a
local farm to mix their paint. Furniture makers from the same time period also used milk paint in soft
pastel colors in their designs.
During the Civil War period, a patent was given for a metal can with a firmly attached top for paints. This
invention began the commercialization of paint making. Paint could now be made quickly in large
quantities for shipping around the country. The manufactured paint was oil based, causing a decrease in
the use of milk paint. The protein in the milk would spoil if stored in the metal containers, and was not a
viable option for mass production. The casein milk protein was sometimes mixed with chemicals and
could be stored for longer period of times, but was not considered true milk paint. Chemicals such as
ammonia and borax were used in the commercially produced oil-based paint with a small level of milk
protein added to the mixture.
Chemists discovered during World War II that the lead and mercury found in many paint mixtures were
dangerous to humans. This discovery led paint companies to reconfigure oil-based paint recipes.
Growing public demand for preserving the environment and reducing toxins prompted a change in the
way many products were produced and packaged. Laws were passed to eliminate the use of lead and
mercury in paint. In 1985, Homestead House Paint Company was formed to create an earth and human
friendly alternative to toxins in commercial paint. The traditional style of milk paint is produced as a
"green" alternative to commercial paint. The paint will spoil once mixed over time, but is completely
free of chemicals.
Brief overview of Milk Paint
What is Milk Paint?
It’s a powdered, all natural paint (no VOC’s) that has been around for thousands of years. It was found
in the pyramids in Egypt and on ancient cave paintings. It’s been used in America for years on furniture,
walls, barns, etc. It is a versatile paint that gives a beautiful, smooth finish and a beautiful antique look.
What is the difference between Milk Paint and Chalk Paint?
They are two totally different kinds of paint. Chalk Paint comes premixed in a quart and is great for the
adhesive qualities and ability to paint almost any surface without prep work. Milk Paint comes in a
powder form and is mixed with water to turn it into paint. It has great adhesion with the bonding agent
is added directly to the first coat of paint. Most surfaces do not need to be prepped or require only light
sanding. Without the bonding agent, Milk Paint will resist some (not all) existing finishes (painted or
poly finished) in some places and will naturally self-distress, creating the “chippy” look.
The Versatility of Milk Paint of milk paint is simply incredible. You can achieve virtually any look you
desire depending on how you mix the powder, and how much water you add to it. You can achieve a
thicker paste like tempera finish, a stain, a washed look, pickled affect, or a solid opaque finish with no
distressing at all. Milk Paint is so easy to distress to give you an authentically aged look.
Milk Paint is food safe and great natural finish for children’s toys or furniture. Using our food safe Hemp
Oil top coat is the perfect match at it ensures a 100% natural finish without chemicals.
Is Milk Paint good for raw wood?
Yes, it’s the best paint for raw wood. It acts like a stain, but looks like a paint. The color will penetrate
the wood for a lasting finish that won’t chip or flake. This makes it an ideal paint for raw wood cabinets
or floors.
Do I have to prime before using Milk Paint?
No. You can simply apply the bonding agent to the first coat of paint. That will make the first coat act
almost like a colored primer. You do not need to add the bonding agent to the second coat.
Milk paint is easily applied to porous surfaces such as bare wood, plaster, concrete etc. Now with our
newly developed Bonding Agent, previously painted walls, furniture and more can now be painted with
milk paint! Milk paint provides a completely breathable coating and is ideal for painting plaster walls,
ceilings, straw bale homes, furniture etc. It can be used to paint the interior or exterior without peeling.
Being slightly alkaline it also naturally inhibits the growth of mould and mildew.
Milk Paint will produce a solid colour or a stain depending on the amount of water used when mixed.
Colors can be intermixed for custom shades. Since this paint dries so quickly (usually 30 minutes) you
are able to finish your project in no time at all. You can layer as many different colours of milk paint as
you like. This is most popular when doing a distressed or antiqued look. Be sure to use a water based
stain before painting if you desire a distressed look.
Milk paint must be sealed with a finishing product such as our Hemp Oil, Beeswax or any other
Urethane/Lacquer coating for extra protection on furniture. Our colours are formulated to appear as
they are on the colour chart once your project has been sealed, left unsealed it will appear chalky. It is
always recommended to do a test to ensure that you like the colour before painting your project.
Characteristics of Milk Paint
-Comes in a dry powder made of clay, limestone, chalk, casein( milk protein) and natural powdered
pigments.
-Pigments, natural or synthetic can be added to achieve virtually any colour
-Can achieve a textured old world look with faux finishing
-Water Soluble, in most cases requiring a top coat finish such as Hemp Oil, or Furniture Wax
-Very porous and absorbent
-Very easy to achieve a natural distressed/antiqued finish on wood
-Poor adhesion on non-porous surfaces, easily remedied with the bonding agent.
-Very difficult to remove with paint strippers.
-Will never chip or peel if applied to a porous surface.
Coverage
One of the most common questions is, how much milk paint do I need?
1 Qt 70 sq.ft.
1 Gallon 280 sq ft.
As a precaution, we always recommend that for a single project enough milk paint is purchased to do
the color testing, complete project with the appropriate amount of coats required and have enough
kept off to the side for later touch ups if required. If you have several smaller bags of the same colour
for one project, be sure to mix the powders together before adding water. Keep in mind once milk paint
is mixed with water it will last for about a week covered in the fridge, however this is not recommended
as the consistency of the paint may change.
For Lighter Colours- ( Ironstone & Linen) Typically 2-3 coats is necessary. For Medium to Darker ColoursTypically 1-2 Coats is necessary
Bonding Agent
Our Milk Paint Bond is a concentrated No VOC's Acrylic Binder in water. It will give a greater adhesion
to many different surfaces. The amount of Milk Paint Bond that you require will change depending on
the surface. If you have a matte surface, such as an old latex paint, you would mix 25% Bond to 75% Milk
Paint. If you have a surface such as melamine, you would add 1 part Bond to 1 part Milk Paint for a
stronger bond. This is simply a guide and will require a test piece to ensure the bonding capability for
your project. Always do a test for compatibility and allow 24 hours to dry.
Advantages:
Will promote adhesion of Milk Paint to:
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Recoat with Milk Paint anytime
Glass, metal & previously painted sound surfaces
Lacquered, shellacked, varnished surfaces
Oil base polyurethane, water base polyurethane (guaranteed results requires proper prep,
sanding/tsp etc)
Physical Properties:
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Color: white, dries clear
Dry time: approx. 1 hour
Surface Preparation:
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Surface should be clean of any wax, grease or silicone residue. Clean with TSP or other nonresidue cleaner.
Scuff sand surface to promote mechanical adhesion.
Mix 25% Bonding Agent to 75% liquid milk paint. Apply this as the first coat. Mix up to 50%
Milk Paint and 50% Bonding Agent for really shiny smooth surfaces.
Paint remaining coats with milk paint
Always do a test and allow 24 hours to dry before full application.
The bonding agent is not a full guarantee that Milk Paint will adhere to any and all surfaces, as
sometimes there are very shiny, difficult surfaces that no matter what you apply just will not stick.
Always do a small test area and let it dry for about 30-60 minutes to ensure that it will adhere. The
longer you allow it to dry, the more chance it has to really grasp on. Over time, and even over months,
the bonding agent gets hard and more durable. You want to give the bonding agent plenty of time to dry
between coats, as Bonding Agent is a water based emulsion which requires time to cure. If you put
multiple layers on there may be slower drying time. Many people often apply thicker coats for better
coverage, in fact this does the opposite. Milk Paint is supposed to be quite thin, it's better to have two
thinner coats that will have the same coverage as two thicker coats that take forever to dry. This is a
worst case scenario, most of the time you can put several layers on in a short period of time and it works
great, however it is important to allow for the products to work best, to give it a little time.
Finishes
Hemp Oil Wood Finish is a great sealer that provides a water resistant finish with a soft satin sheen.
Followed by our beeswax will provide rich patina and extra lasting protection. Both of these are food
safe and all natural. Hemp Oil is very easy to use, you can use a spare rag or brush for a quick
application. Several coats are required for a proper sealed and protected finish. This top coat is ideal for
interior surfaces not coming into contact with a lot of water. For exterior top coating, we recommend
Tung Oil.
Furniture Wax & Antiquing Wax is a great sealer commonly used on antiques to revive old wood
effects, protect and condition the wood to prevent aging. Our beeswax is completely food safe, ideal for
counter tops, salad bowls, cooking utensils, furniture, stone or cast iron.
It’s very similar to other waxes on the market (Annie Sloan, Fiddes, Briwax), except it’s a little creamier
and very low odor.
Apply it to a piece of raw wood, stained wood or painted furniture with a cloth or brush. Buff after
about 5-10 minutes. Apply additional coats for a higher sheen and more durability.
It’s a very durable finish. If it’s marred, just lightly sand and add another coat of wax. Refinishing the
entire piece is not required. Yes, you can use other waxes on Milk Paint and you can use MMS Furniture
wax on Chalk Paint, flat latex, stained wood, etc.
What’s the difference between MMS Antiquing Wax and other “Dark Waxes” on the market?
Antiquing Wax was developed to specifically to be used to antique paint finishes. Dark waxes are meant
to be used as a wood stain/wax in one. Because of that, the dark wax is very saturated with pigments
and can look heavy and streaky on a finish if not mixed with clear wax or mineral spirits. Antiquing Wax
only has a small amount of pigment, so it works more like a glaze with the body of a wax. This product is
also low odor and can be applied with a brush or clean cloth. A Varnish or Urethane offers a
maintenance-free satin finish that is extremely durable for any surface( flooring/cabinetry). If the milk
paint surface is left unsealed the chalky colour will remain and water spots will occur if the project
comes into contact with water.
It is important to seal the surface if you’ve created a chippy look with a urethane or varnish if you want
to completely stop any further chipping.
Wax Pucks
These adorable perfectly palm sized wax pucks can be strategically used in places where you would like
to see a distressed effect. By placing it in the areas that would typically receive the most wear and tear,
it will prevent the milk paint from sticking to the wood underneath. It also allows the base stain to stay
in place by resisting some of the distressing. Be sure only to use a small amount as anywhere you add
this the subsequent coats of milk paint will not adhere.
Workshop
Wood Preparation
Rounding the edges with a tool, or sand paper
Make small imperfections in the wood with tools on hand, keys etc
Base Stain
Staining the wood is only necessary if a distressed effect is desired. The reasoning behind this is that if
you start with a new piece of wood, typically it is quite blond and pale. If your desire is to create an older
looking piece of furniture, if the wood is not stained and you start to wear away (distress) your top coat,
you will see brand new wood underneath that may not look proper with your overall antiqued project.
The key to staining with a milk paint top coat is to use a water based stain. We recommend using our
Milk Paint Wood Stains, which come in 4 colours. However if you would like to get creative, any Milk
Paint colour can be made a stain simply by adding more water and mixing it according to our Wood
Stain instructions.
How to mix the Milk Paint into a Wood Stain
Typically when mixing the milk paints, we work in ratios of volume.
This is one of the beauty’s of using this type of paint, you mix up only what you need, keeping extra
powder off to the side for future projects, or simply just buy what you need, not getting stuck with a
“half gallon” of paint to be stored away in a garage for years.
Depending on the size of your project, you can use quantities as low as a tea spoon or as large as you
like, as long as you follow the ratios. The ratio for a Wood Stain is: 1 Part Powder to 3 Parts Water.
Mix this, then test it in a small spare sample of the surface you desire to stain, allow for it to dry for
several minutes, if you are happy with the transparency then continue the rest of your project with that
batch. If you find that it is too thin, add more powder, try ½ a part. If it is too opaque a colour, then add
more water, try 1 Part. Re-test and adjust as necessary until you are satisfied with the result.
Your stain project should be fully dried within 10-20 minutes.
Resist with Wax Pucks
This can be strategically used in places where you would like to see a distressed effect. By placing it in
the areas that would typically receive the most wear and tear, it will prevent the milk paint from sticking
to the wood underneath. It also allows the base stain to stay in place by resisting some of the
distressing. Typically a natural oil or beeswax can be used. Be sure only to use a small amount!
Preparing the Milk Paint
Mix 1 ½ parts water to 1 part powder for a solid colour. A part can be whatever you wish, a table spoon,
a cup etc.
For a stain, mix 3 parts water to 1 part powder.
Any milk paint colour can be made into a stain simply by adding more water. First add water to the
blender, followed by the powder to prevent the powder from getting compacted and not mixing
thoroughly.
It is highly recommend to use a food grade blender to mix the milk paint if a flawless look is desired- this
will ensure greater colour consistency. Egg beaters, milk frother or an immersion blender can be used,
or even simple hand mixing will suffice- it simply depends on the overall finished look you desire. The
finer the mix, the smoother the finish that will result. Sometimes if your paint is not mixed enough, you
will go to paint, and you’ll see a streak of pigment in a different colour, this simply means that you need
to let the paint sit for a little while longer, and mix it again so that all of the raw materials get a chance
to thoroughly dissolve.
Always add water first to the mixing bowl or container so as the powder does not get compacted and
not thoroughly mixed.
Turn the blender on low for 1 Minute.
This is where you now test your colour to see if you have achieved the right opaqueness. Take a spare
piece of your substrate and paint out a small amount. Your milk paint should produce no specs or
chunks( specs or chunks means you need to blend for longer), should produce a nice solid layer of paint
in one stroke. Typically one to two coats is required for an opaque finish. If you notice that your milk
paint needs adjustment, add more powder if it is too thin, or add more water if too thick. Continue
blending.
Whites and off whites are the hardest to mix, as typically they need less water so that the mixture is
thicker for better coverage.
(If you’re having difficulty with getting a nice mixture, we recommend letting the milk paint settle for 10
minutes to allow all the pigments to completely dissolve, this will ensure a uniform colour. This is an
optional step as in most cases the milk paint is already 100% mixed and does not require this stage.
After 10 minutes of settling, mix the milk paint for 30 seconds as much of the pigments may have settled
on the bottom. )
You may require a second or third coat for certain colours- usually very light off whites. If the paint is too
translucent and stain like, then add more powder and mix again for 3-5 minutes. If too thick or opaque,
add more water. This testing stage may be tedious for first timers, but it gets easier! Once you get the
right consistency once, you know how to mix it from there on and it becomes second nature.
Be sure to apply a finish coat on the test piece after applying the milk paint as this will greatly deepen
the colour, then proceed on to your entire piece once you are satisfied with your test. If you are painting
a project that requires the Milk Paint Bond, you can add it after you have blended the milk paint with
water and have found the right consistency.
Applying the first coat of Milk Paint
We recommend pouring the paint out of the blender into a wide mouth container such as a recycled ice
cream or yogurt container. Now is a good time to wash or soak the blender with warm soapy water. The
blender will clean very easily if this is done at this stage. You can reuse your blender for food after.
You will notice when you mix the Milk Paint in a blender a foam layer appears on the top, this is mostly
filled with air and provides very poor coverage. It is in your best interest to discard the excess foam.
Apply paint evenly using a regular bristle brush or foam brush. Try not to leave pools of milk paint as this
will dry uneven. Sometimes it may look like the pigments are not settling properly on the wood, it looks
like an uneven colour- in fact this is just the water starting to soak in and separate from the pigments
slightly, however it will all even out. Just make sure you have 1 or 2 consistent strokes when you apply
the paint, and let it do it’s thing. Some people will think they’re not using enough paint, in fact it is
better to use thinner coats, as they dry faster, and do two to three coats, rather than 1 or 2 thick coats.
Extra strokes will remove air bubbles if they occur. A spotted finish may result if bubbles dry on surface.
This can usually be sanded out. Stir paint when re-dipping your brush as the natural pigments will
settle– this will maintain a consistent colour.
Drying time is very fast, approximately 20-30 minutes. You can then apply a second coat if necessary. If
not, then follow onto the finishing step.
Finishing
Once dry your project will have a chalky appearance. This will change to a deeper richer colour once you
have “sealed” it in the final step. You should have seen this in your testing stage.
Once the final application of Milk Paint is completely dry- approximately 20 minutes after application
use steel wool or very fine sandpaper 300 grit is ideal, to lightly rub the surface in the direction of the
grain. This will remove excess milk paint residue and smooth the raised wood grain. Only a very gentle
sanding is required. If you would like to see more distressing, then use a higher grit sandpaper, about
220 and this will remove the layers of milk paint.
Once gently sanded, a slightly damp rag will remove any excess dust or excess milk paint residue.
Now you can apply your top finish coat to seal your milk paint project. Once you have sealed your
project it will not be possible to go back and add or change the milk paint or stain colour– so you must
be certain with your piece before you apply the finish coat. This is why we recommend doing a test
piece first.
There are many different types of finishes that you can use for the top coat to seal your project.
Hemp Oil Wood Finish is a great sealer that provides a water resistant finish with a soft satin sheen.
Followed by our beeswax will provide rich patina and extra long lasting protection. Both of these are
food safe and all natural. Hemp Oil is very easy to use, you can use a spare rag or brush for a quick
application. Several coats are required for a proper sealed and protected finish. This top coat is ideal for
interior surfaces not coming into contact with a lot of water. For exterior top coating, we recommend
Tung Oil.
Furniture Wax or Antiquing Wax is a great sealer commonly used on antiques to revive old wood
effects, protect and condition the wood to prevent aging. Our beeswax is completely food safe, ideal for
counter tops, salad bowls, cooking utensils, furniture, stone or cast iron.
A Varnish or Urethane offers a maintenance-free satin finish that is extremely durable for any surface(
flooring/cabinetry). If the milk paint surface is left unsealed the chalky colour will remain and water
spots will occur if the project comes into contact with water.
It is important to seal the surface if you’ve created a chippy look with a urethane or varnish if you want
to completely stop any further chipping.
Here are some additional tips and information for other Milk Painted projects!
The Chippy Look
Milk Paint will chip or flake when there is a barrier below the milk paint preventing it from absorbing
into the surface. A barrier could be a previously existing coating such as paint, varnish, natural oil/wax
etc. If you want to control the chippyness on a shiny varnished or painted surface, you should use the
bonding agent in the first coat of the milk paint. You can purposely apply Hemp oil in strategic areas
where you want increased chippyness to occur below your paint. Be sure to seal the project after with a
poly coating such as a urethane as that will fully seal in the project with a thin layer of plastic, so to
speak, whereas an Oil or Wax will not do that. A Wax or Oil works from the inside out and penetrates
through, so it will not stop chipping. A Poly coating will seal it in and stop chipping once you've reached
your desired affect. If your client does not want a chipped look at all, be sure that they use the Bonding
Agent. You can use any finish over the bonding agent, wax, hemp oil, urethane etc. Just note that waxes
and Hemp Oil can not penetrate through the bonding agent into the pores of the wood, it will still richen
the colour and protect it though.
We do not recommend painting over a Waxed surface, this is one of the benefits of using Hemp Oil- as
over time, if you want to re paint the piece, you can simply milk paint right over top, with the potential
for chippyness occurring, or add the bonding agent to ensure proper adhesion.
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