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Your complete beading resource
HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE! 25 ideas for your favorite beader
Celebrating
2
December 2013 Issue 118
A DIGITAL SUPPLEMENT TO BEAD&BUTTON MAGAZINE
Your complete beading resource
®
just in time foR the holidays!
Create an
ornament
cover
p . 47
Make
14 Fabulous
Projects
• A ring that doubles
as a pendant p. 36
• A bangle with tiny
crystal buttons p. 86
• Jewelry with our
anniversary bead p. 54
Cynthia Rutledge makes
cool cuffs — and you
can too! p. 56
PLUS
• Design Workshop: Curve stitching with wire p. 22
• The evocative beadwork of Betsy Youngquist p. 106
• Guide to gemstone treatments p. 11
SUBSCRIBE
EXCLUSIVER
Decemb
er 2013
5
festive
projects
Bead a
bracelet of
tiny reindeer
for the holidays
Whip up
a flurry of
snowflakes
Stitch a blooming
focal piece
Make a diagonal peyote
ornament cover
Create a starburst
cuff with unconventional
materials
Welcome
w
B&B Extra December 2013
T
he holidays are right around the corner, but there’s
still plenty of time to get into the spirit. These five
projects are designed to put you in a festive disposition, so cozy up by the fireplace (or in any comfy chair),
and get out your beads! Two holiday-themed bracelets,
Bobbie Yoakum’s “Snowflake sashay,” p. 4, and Josie Fabre’s
“Prancing reindeer bracelet,” p. 11, will take you to a whimsical winter wonderland. For a last-minute tree decoration
or gift idea, try Cathy Lampole’s “Magical holiday ornament
cover,” p. 13. While Marilyn Earhart’s “Plumeria blossom,” p. 7, suggests fun in
the sun instead of snow and cocoa, this elegant focal piece could be worked up
in your favorite holiday colors for show-stopping party attire. And Marcia Rose’s
“Wild child cuff,” p. 17, features a lively starburst for anyone with slightly
edgier wardrobe tastes. Happy holidays from all of us at Bead&Button!
Please support these
fine sponsors!
Simply
Click on
each logo below!
Then click on the ad to visit
the sponsor’s website, and shop
for all of your beading needs!
Editor, Bead&Button
editor@beadandbutton.com
Contents
Snowflake sashay �� 4
Plumeria blossom �� 7
Prancing reindeer bracelet �� 11
Magical holiday ornament cover �� 13
Wild child cuff�� 17
© 2013, Kalmbach Publishing Co. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in part
or in whole without written permission from the publisher. The designs in B&B Extra are for your personal
enjoyment. They may not be taught or sold without permission.
Editor Julia Gerlach
ADVERTISING
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Melissa
Do not use less than 100% of full size.
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B&B Extra is published bimonthly by Kalmbach
Illustrator Kellie Jaeger
Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle,
P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612.
Publisher Linda Kast
PLUS
Look for links throughout the
pages that will connect you
to more great content and
resources on the Web.
www
Visit www.BeadAndButton.com
for access to more
projects from
Bead&Button magazine.
Shop over 116,000
HOT jewelry-making products:
www.firemountaingems.com
Design Idea
CB16
Necklace
For complete instructions
and materials list Click Here
You Supply the Creativity,
We Supply Everything Else!®
One Fire Mountain Way, DEPT C018 Grants Pass, OR 97526 1-800-335-2137
PEYOTE STITCH
Snowflake
sashay
Display a band of friendly
flurries with an easy pattern.
designed by Bobbie Yoakum
B&B Extra
|
December 2013 4
110 cylinder beads
color A
color B
Difficulty rating
110 cylinder beads
color A
color B
c
b
Materials
bracelet 71⁄2 in. (19.1 cm)
• 110 cylinder beads
8 g color A (Miyuki DB0609,
dyed silver-lined dark purple)
2 g color B (Miyuki DB0200, white)
• 2 g 150 seed beads (white)
• toggle clasp
• Fireline 6 lb. test
• beading needles, #12
a
Bobbie
Yoakum is a
figure 1
retired math
teacher who
found beading
in 1989. She
taught and worked at
Margo Field’s bead shop in
Albuquerque, New Mexico,
for 11 years and now teaches
beading at various shops in
that area. Contact Bobbie at
(505) 884-8692, or email her
at bobbiecy@comcast.net.
stepbystep
Band
On a comfortable length of thread, attach a
stop bead (Online Beading Basics), leaving
a 10-in. (25 cm) tail. Pick up 21 color A 110
cylinder beads. Reading the pattern from top
to bottom or bottom to top, work the band
in flat odd-count peyote stitch (Online Basics).
End and add thread as needed (Online Basics),
but do not end the working thread or tail when
you complete the band.
Clasp
[1] With the working thread, sew through the
www To brush up on the
beadwork to exit the fourth up-bead from one
edge in the last row with your needle pointing
toward the other edge (figure 1, point a).
[2] Pick up seven color A cylinders, half of
the clasp, and three As, and sew back through
the fourth A picked up in this step (a–b). This
forms a loop of beads through the clasp; snug
the loop to the first three As picked up. Pick
up three more As, skip three up-beads in the
last row of the band, and sew through the
following up-bead, which should be the
fourth up-bead from the other edge (b–c).
Retrace the thread path through the clasp
connection, and end the working thread.
Online Beading Basics
in this story (plus other
techniques!), go online to
www.BeadAndButton.com/
Basics.
PATTERN
B&B Extra
|
December 2013 5
a
b
f
e
d
c
figure 2
[3] Remove the stop bead from the tail, and
work as in step 2 to attach the other half of
the clasp. End the tail.
Edging
[1] Add 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread to the band,
and exit the first A along one edge with your
needle pointing away from the band (figure 2,
point a).
[2] Pick up five 150 seed beads. Skip one A
along the edge of the band, sew through the
next edge A with your needle pointing toward
the band, and sew through the following edge
A with your needle pointing away from the
band (a–b).
[3] Repeat step 2 for the length of the band.
[4] Sew through the beadwork to exit the
last A along this edge (point c), and continue
through the last two 150s added in the last
edging stitch (c–d). Skipping the center 150
in the stitch, sew through the next two 150s
in the stitch (d–e). Pull the thread tight so the
center 150 forms a point. Sew through the
next two edge As in the band, and continue
through the following two 150s added in the
previous edging stitch (e–f).
[5] Continue sewing back through the edging
stitches, skipping the center 150s to form
points, as in step 4. End the thread.
[6] Repeat steps 1–5 on the other edge of
the band. w
B&B Extra
|
December 2013 6
Stitch a
delicately
curved flower
with seed
beads and
cylinder beads.
PEYOTE STITCH
Plumeria
blossom
designed by Marilyn Earhart
B&B Extra
|
December 2013 7
f
a
b
Difficulty rating
c
Materials
plumeria flower 21⁄4 in. (5.7 cm)
• 1 6 mm pearl
• 1 g 110 seed beads*
• 2 g 110 cylinder beads*
• beading thread, size D
• beading needles, #12
110 cylinder bead
110 seed bead
d
* Colors shown on p. 7 are:
• 110 seed beads (Miyuki 373, dark roselined light topaz luster, and Toho PF2111,
permanent finish silver-lined milky peach)
• 110 cylinder beads (Miyuki DB0913,
sparkle salmon-lined topaz, and
Toho Aiko PF2111, permanent finish
salmon opal silver lined)
e
figure 1
Designer’s note:
This flower can easily be adapted
to other sizes by starting with a
ring of beads that is divisible by
four plus two.
Marilyn Earhart saw
figure 2
figure 3
stepbystep
[1] On 2 ft. (61 cm) of thread, pick up
26 110 cylinder beads. Tie the beads
into a ring with a square knot (Online
Beading Basics), leaving a 6-in. (15 cm)
tail, and sew through the first cylinder.
This ring of beads will shift to form the
first two rounds of peyote as round 3
is added.
[2] Work in rounds as follows:
Round 3: Pick up two cylinders, and
sew through the next cylinder in the
ring (figure 1, a–b). Work one peyote
stitch (Online Basics) with a cylinder
(b–c), four stitches with 110 seed beads
(c–d), and one stitch with a cylinder
(d–e). Repeat these seven stitches, and
step up through the first cylinder added
in this round (e–f).
Rounds 4 and 5: Work both rounds
as in round 3, but increase the number
of seed beads by one per side (figures 2
and 3).
a peyote rope done in
a Native American
pattern, taught herself
the basic stitches, and
has been a bead weaver
since 1986. She currently teaches
at Beads in Tampa and leads two
beading groups that meet weekly.
Her favorite beads are Delicas,
and she loves doing sculptural work
in any stitch that makes the shape
she wants. She self-published a
beading book in 2011 through Lulu
titled Peyote Path Meets a Brick Wall.
Contact Marilyn via email at
dvnmsm@yahoo.com.
www To brush up on the Online
Beading Basics referenced in this
story (plus other techniques!), go to
www.BeadAndButton.com/Basics.
B&B Extra
|
December 2013 8
figure 5
figure 4
figure 6
Round 6: Work a round with cylinders
only (figure 4). Pull snug — the beadwork
will begin to cup.
Round 7: Work a round with cylinders,
but pick up only a single cylinder at each
end of the petal. Step up through the first
cylinder added in this round (figure 5).
End the working thread and tail (Online
Basics).
[3] Repeat steps 1 and 2 three times.
Repeat once more to create a fifth petal,
but start with 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread, and
do not end the working thread when the
petal is complete.
[4] With the working thread exiting the
tip of the fifth petal, work three peyote
stitches with cylinders. Place another
petal next to this one, and working back
toward the tip, zip up (Online Basics) the
petals to join them (figure 6). Exit the tip
of the newly joined petal.
[5] Repeat step 4 to attach the remaining
petals into a flower, making sure all the
petals curve the same way. Sew through
the tip bead of all five petals a few times.
[6] Exiting the front of the flower
(toward the convex side of the petals),
pick up a 6 mm pearl, and sew through the
tip bead on an opposite petal. Retrace the
thread path through the pearl a few times,
and end the thread.
[7] If desired, repeat steps 1–6 to make
additional flowers.
[8] Determine how you want to wear
the flowers. If needed, create
a bail on the back of a
flower in the desired
location. Here’s one
method: Exit the flower
where you want the
bail to be, and pick up
10–12 cylinders. Sew
through a bead on the
flower so the cylinders
form a small arch. Work
in peyote back across the
arch. Work one or two
more rows, if desired,
and end the thread.
[9] String the flowers on
a necklace as desired. Tack
the flowers together where they
overlap. Alternatively, stitch several
flowers together, and attach them as
desired to a bead-woven necklace, as
shown above. w
B&B Extra
|
December 2013 9
SWAROVSKI CRYSTALS
ADD SPARKLE TO YOUR DESIGNS
Here’s something to really talk about and share with all of
your friends! Receive a fabulous gift with your purchase of
Swarovski crystals and learn how you can own the first
ever CREATE YOUR STYLE PROJECT CALENDAR!
Our 2014 calendar offers you thirteen gorgeous projects
to make using Swarovski crystals – a must for any crystal
enthusiast.
Participating retailers
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kling gift!
Receive a spar
For more information scan QR-Code
with your SmartPhone or visit
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM/GIFT
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
THREE-DROP PEYOTE STITCH
Prancing
reindeer
bracelet
Deck yourself
with Rudolph
and friends.
designed by Josie Fabre
Difficulty rating
DB0022 metallic bronze
DB0035 galvanized silver
DB0602 silver-lined red
Materials
bracelet 7 in. (18 cm)
• 1 12 mm crystal rivoli button (Swarovski #3015, crystal)
• 62 3 mm fire-polished beads (Czech, red)
• 110 Miyuki Delica cylinder beads
12 g silver (DB0035, galvanized silver)
4 g brown (DB0022,
metallic bronze)
1 red (DB0602,
silver-lined red)
• 1 g 150 seed beads
(Miyuki 1, silver-lined crystal)
• nylon beading thread, size D, or Fireline 6 lb. test
• beading needles, #12
stepbystep
This bracelet is worked in three-drop peyote
stitch, a technique based on two-drop peyote stitch.
If needed, refer to our Online Beading Basics to brush
up on two-drop peyote before beginning this project.
Bracelet band
[1] On a comfortable length of thread, attach a stop
bead (Online Beading Basics), leaving a 6-in. (15 cm)
tail. Starting at the lower-right corner of the pattern,
pick up 24 110 cylinder beads for rows 1 and 2.
[2] Following the pattern, work in three-drop peyote
stitch using cylinders. End and add thread (Online
Basics) as needed while you stitch, and end the working thread and tail when you complete the pattern.
Edging
[1] Add a comfortable length of thread to the band,
and exit an end edge bead.
[2] Pick up a 150 seed bead, a 3 mm fire-polished
Josie Fabre
bead, and a 150. Skip the next two edge cylinders, and
sew down through the following edge cylinder. Sew
through the beadwork to exit the same edge cylinder
with your needle pointing away from the beadwork.
Repeat this step for the length of the band.
[3] Sew through the beadwork to exit an end bead
along the other edge, and repeat step 2 to embellish
this edge. End the thread.
has been
beading for
more than
10 years. She
became hooked on peyote
stitch and designing patterns
after she made several
squares for the 2012 BeadIt-Forward project. She is
a full-time scientist and
mother but beads every
chance she gets. She is
inspired by nature, art, and
architecture. Contact her at
josie@fabres.net, or visit
www.josie.etsy.com.
Clasp
[1] Add 10 in. (25 cm) of thread to one end of the
band, and exit between the two center stitches in
the very last row.
[2] Pick up about 16 150s and a 12 mm crystal
button, and sew back into the beadwork in the
same spot. Retrace the thread path through the
button several times, and end the thread.
[3] Add 2 ft. (61 cm) of thread at the other end
of the band, and exit one-third of the way across
the end row. Pick up 21 cylinder beads, skip six
center beads in the end row, and sew through
the next bead to form a loop.
[4] Turn, and work in regular peyote stitch back
across the loop, picking up one cylinder per stitch.
Sew into the band, and then sew through the beadwork to exit the last cylinder added with your needle
pointing away from the band and toward the loop.
[5] Pick up three 150s, and sew through the next
up-bead in the peyote loop. Repeat this stitch around
the loop, and end the thread in the band. w
www To brush up on
the Online Beading Basics
referenced in this story
(plus other techniques!),
go to www.BeadAndButton.
com/Basics.
PATTERN
B&B Extra
|
December 2013 12
PEYOTE STITCH / BEAD WEAVING
Magical
holiday ornament
designed by Cathy Lampole
You’ll enchant everyone who looks at your
tree with these delicate peyote petals
draped from a ring of pearls.
B&B Extra
|
December 2013 13
Difficulty rating
6 x 9 mm crystal drop
Materials
f
c
a
c a
d
6 mm crystal pearl
3 mm crystal pearl
e
110 seed bead, color A
110 seed bead, color B
b
b
figure 2
figure 1
a
c m
d
a
b
b
e
n
f
c
g
d
figure 3
h
i
l
k
j
figure 4
stepbystep
Petals
[1] On 1½ yd. (1.4 m) of thread, pick up
eight color A 110 seed beads, leaving a 33-in.
(84 cm) tail (figure 1, a–b). These beads will
shift to form the first two rows as row 3
is added.
[2] Work the following rows in flat evencount peyote stitch (Online Beading Basics)
keeping a tight tension:
Row 3: Work one stitch using a color B 110
seed bead and three stitches using As (b–c).
Row 4: Work a turn: Pick up an A, a B, and
an A, skip the B, and sew back through the
first A (c–d). Position the B to the left side
of the beadwork, and work three stitches
using As (d–e).
Row 5: Work one stitch using a B and three
stitches using As (e–f).
[3] Work as in rows 4 and 5 until you have
11 Bs along the bottom edge and 10 Bs
along the top edge. End the working thread
(Online Basics).
[4] With the tail, work four stitches using
As (figure 2, a–b), and then work as in
row 5 (b–c).
[5] Work as in rows 4 and 5 to create a
mirror image of the first side of the petal,
with 11 new Bs along the bottom edge and
10 new Bs along the top edge.
[6] Sew down through the last B along the
top edge, pick up a B, and sew through the
next edge B (figure 3, a–b). Repeat this stitch
until you reach the inner point of the petal
(b–c), and pull tight so the beadwork curves
slightly. Pick up a B, and sew through the next
B along the top edge (c–d). Repeat this stitch
for the remainder of the edge, and pull tight.
[7] With your thread exiting the top B, pick
up three Bs, and sew down through the corresponding top B on the opposite side of the
petal (figure 4, a–b). Continue up through
the adjacent top A (b–c).
blue ornament cover
• 1 25⁄8-in. (6.7 cm) diameter glass ball ornament
(www.rabbithollow
creations.com)
• 6 6 x 9 mm crystal drops (Swarovski, indicolite)
• crystal pearls (Swarovski, light gold)
42 6 mm
132 3 mm
• 110 seed beads
13 g color A (Miyuki 25F, matte silver-lined Capri blue)
7 g color B (Miyuki 649, dyed violet silver-lined alabaster)
• Fireline 6 lb. test
• beading needles,
#11 or #12
teal ornament cover
colors:
• 6 x 9 mm crystal drops (Swarovski, crystal AB)
• 6 mm and 3 mm crystal pearls (Swarovski, white)
• 110 seed beads
color A (Toho 995,
gold-lined rainbow aqua)
color B (Toho 26,
silver-lined light amethyst)
Cathy
Lampole
owns the
bead shop
That Bead
Lady in Newmarket,
Ontario, Canada. For
store information, visit
www.thatbeadlady.com.
www To brush up on the
Online Beading Basics referenced in this story (plus
other techniques!), go to
www.BeadAndButton.com/
Basics.
B&B Extra
|
December 2013 14
c
d
a
d
a
b
b
figure 7
c
figure 5
[6] Work as in steps 2–5 to join the
remaining petals. End the thread.
Collar
[1] On 5 ft. (1.5 m) of thread, pick up
c
f
figure 6
a
d
b
e
figure 8
[8] Pick up an A, skip the last B added
in the previous step, and sew through
the next B (c–d). Pick up an A, and
continue through the top A on the
opposite side of the petal (d–e).
[9] Sew through the next edge A, pick
up a B, and sew through the following
edge A (e–f). Repeat this stitch two more
times, exiting the B in the last stitch
instead of an A (f–g).
[10] Pick up a 3 mm pearl, and sew
through the next edge B (g–h). Repeat
this stitch to add a total of nine pearls
(h–i). Pick up a B, and sew through the
next edge B (i–j).
[11] Pick up a B, and sew through
the beadwork as shown (j–k). Pick
up a B, and sew through the adjacent
edge B (k–l).
[12] Add the edge embellishments
to make a mirror image of the first side
of the petal, exiting the top A (l–m).
[13] Work three peyote stitches using
Bs, exiting the top A on the other side
of the petal (m–n). End the threads.
[14] Make a total of six petals.
Joining the petals
[1] Add 21⁄2 yd. (2.2 m) of thread to
a petal, exiting the top 3 mm pearl
on one side of the petal with the needle
pointing toward the top of the petal.
[2] Pick up a 3 mm, and sew down
through the corresponding 3 mm on
another petal (figure 5, a–b). Pick up
a 3 mm, sew up through the 3 mm
your thread exited at the start of this
step (b–c), and pull tight. Retrace the
thread path, and exit the top pearl of
the new petal (c–d). Continue through
the beadwork of the new petal to
exit the third edge B from the bottom
(figure 6, point a).
[3] Pick up a B, a 6 mm pearl, and a
B, and sew back through the 6 mm and
the first B. Continue through the next
two edge Bs (a–b).
[4] Pick up three Bs, a 6 mm, a B,
a 6 x 9 mm crystal drop, and a B. Sew
back through the drop, the B, and the
6 mm (b–c). Pick up three Bs, and sew
through the next two edge Bs on this
side (c–d).
[5] Repeat step 3, and then sew through
the beadwork to exit the top 3 mm on
this side of the petal.
a repeating pattern of a 6 mm pearl and
a B 12 times. Sew through the beads
again to form a ring, leaving a 6-in.
(15 cm) tail. Retrace the thread path,
and exit a 6 mm pearl.
[2] Pick up seven Bs, and sew through
the pearl in the same direction to form
a loop. Continue through the next B
and pearl (figure 7). Repeat this stitch
to complete the round, and exit the first
four Bs added in this step.
[3] Pick up a B, a 6 mm pearl, and
a B, and sew through the center B at the
top of a petal (figure 8, a–b). Sew back
through the B, 6 mm pearl, and B, and
continue through the B your thread
exited at the start of this step, sewing
in the same direction (b–c). Sew through
the beadwork as shown to exit the
fourth B in the next loop (c–d).
[4] Pick up a B, a 3 mm pearl, a 6 mm
pearl, a 3 mm pearl, and a B, and sew
through the top 3 mm pearl from the
join between two petals (d–e). Pick
up a B, and sew back through the
3 mm pearl, 6 mm pearl, 3 mm
pearl, and B. Continue through
the B your thread exited at the
start of this step, sewing in the
same direction. Sew through
the beadwork to exit the
fourth B in the next
loop (e–f).
[5] Repeat steps
3 and 4 to attach
the remaining petals. End the thread.
[6] Place the beadwork over a 25⁄8-in.
(6.7 cm) diameter
ball ornament. w
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DESIGN BY HELENA CHMELIKOVA
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tO DISCOVEr MOrE ABOut
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PRECIOSA ORNELA
Czech Republic
BEAD EMBROIDERY / FRINGE
Wild child
bracelet
Seal beads inside mesh tubes
to make a spiky starburst
center for a fish leather cuff.
designed by Marcia Rose
B&B Extra
|
December 2013 17
stepbystep
There are two methods we recommend
to seal the ends of the nylon mesh tubing.
The first method, described below,
requires white glue, like Crafter’s Pick
The Ultimate! The disadvantage is that
it may take several hours for the glue
to dry completely. The second method
produces immediate results but requires
a soldering iron with temperature control. The second method is explained in
“Sealing with a soldering iron” in the
box below.
Mesh starburst
[1] Cut 14 5-in. (13 cm) pieces of
8 mm nylon mesh tubing (also called
tubular crin).
[2] Tie a very tight overhand knot
(Online Beading Basics) close to one
end of a tube. Repeat for the remaining
13 tubes.
[3] To seal this end of the tube: Squeeze
a small amount of white glue just before
the knot, covering an area about 4 mm
wide all the way around the end of the
tube. Make sure the glue gets under the
knot a bit, and don’t worry if it gets
on the knot.
[4] Allow the glue to dry completely,
and then cut off the knot, making sure
to cut as close to the knot as possible
so this end of the tube comes to a point.
[5] Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the remaining tubes.
[6] Place four assorted beads in a tube,
tie a tight overhand knot close to the
open end, and seal this end as in steps
3 and 4. Repeat for the remaining tubes.
[7] On 12 in. (30 cm) of thread, sew
through the center of each tube, leaving
a 6-in. (15 cm) tail and making sure
there is an even number of beads in each
tube on either side of the center point.
[8] Pick up a 4–6 mm bead and a 150
seed bead, and sew back through the
4–6 mm and the center of the tubes.
Tie the working thread and the tail
together with a square knot (Online
Basics) using a firm tension to compress
the tubes a bit at the center. Do not
end the working thread or tail.
Preparing the cuff
[1] On a piece of paper, draw a rectangle 2 in. (5 cm) wide and the desired
length of the cuff minus ½ in. (1.3 cm)
for the clasp. Round the corners for
a smooth look. Cut out the template.
Sealing with a
soldering iron
M
arcia used a dual-temperature soldering
iron set at the lowest temperature instead
of glue. We used a rheostat set just above
500°F with a soldering iron. A rheostat adjusts
the amount of electrical current to a device,
thus controlling the temperature.
• Follow steps 1 and 2 of “Mesh starburst”
to cut and knot 14 mesh tubes.
• Experiment with the soldering iron on a scrap of mesh tubing to find a tempera-
ture that fuses the mesh without dissolving it. We had the best results at a range
of 480–510°F.
• Once you have determined the correct temperature, carefully fuse each mesh tube just before the knot. Cut off the knot, making sure to cut as close to the knot
as possible so this end of the tube comes to a point.
• Work step 6 of “Mesh starburst,” sealing the remaining end as described above,
and then continue with steps 7 and 8.
Difficulty rating
Materials
cuff 7 in. (18 cm)
• 2 yd. (1.8 m) 8 mm nylon mesh tubing
(also called tubular crin;
www.northernbeadcart.com)
• 30 5 x 7 mm pearl drops (Czech,
off white; www.shipwreckbeads.com)
• 57–60 4–6 mm assorted beads
• 240 3 mm round crystals (Swarovski,
crystal CAL 2X)
• 1 g 110 seed beads (Toho 49, opaque jet)
• 1 g 150 seed beads (Toho 49, opaque jet)
• clasp
• 2 5 mm jump rings
• 2 1-in. (2.5 cm) basketweave ribbon
crimp ends
• nylon beading thread, such as Nymo,
size B
• beading needles, #11
• 2 pairs of chainnose pliers
• clear-drying white glue, such as Crafter’s
Pick The Ultimate!
• dual-temperature soldering iron (optional)
• fish skin leather (www.naturebeads.com)
• Lacy’s Stiff Stuff beading foundation
• paper and pencil
• rheostat (optional)
• Ultrasuede or leather
Marcia Rose finally
has the time to do the
things she loves since
selling the mail-order
computer/electronics
company she cofounded. She
discovered the art of French beaded
flowers and became completely
hooked on beads. Contact Marcia
at mnrgorr@yahoo.com.
www To brush up on the Online
Beading Basics referenced in this
story (plus other techniques!), go to
www.BeadAndButton.com/Basics.
B&B Extra
|
December 2013 18
[2] Place the template on the back
of a piece of fish leather, trace around
it, and then cut out the shape. Repeat
this step for the Ultrasuede and the
beading foundation, but trim the
foundation about 2 mm smaller than
the template all around the perimeter.
Pearl fringe
[1] On a comfortable length of thread,
tie an overhand knot, and sew through
the fish leather from back to front where
you would like to add the first fringe.
[2] Pick up two 150s, a 5 x 7 mm pearl
drop, and a 150. Skip the last 150, and
sew back through the pearl, the next
two 150s, and the fish leather. Sew across
the back of the fish leather to the next
desired location, and continue to add
fringe in the same manner. Avoid adding
fringe to the center of the cuff where
you will attach the mesh starburst. Tie
a knot on the back of the fish leather
to end the thread.
Assembly
[1] With the working thread from
the starburst, sew through the center
of the fish leather from front to back.
Retrace the thread path through the
leather and the center of the starburst,
including the center bead, several times.
Tie a knot on the back of the fish leather
to end the thread, dot the knot with
glue, and allow to dry.
[2] Place the Ultrasuede rectangle face
down on your work surface. Apply
a very thin layer of glue to the top surface, avoiding the edges. Position the
foundation on top of the Ultrasuede,
making sure there is about 2 mm of
Ultrasuede visible around the edges
of the foundation.
[3] Apply a thin layer of glue to the top
surface of the foundation, and place the
fish leather on top.
[4] Using chainnose pliers, attach a ribbon crimp end to the center of one end
of the cuff.
[5] Open a 5 mm jump ring (Online
Basics), and attach half of the clasp to
the loop of the crimp end.
[6] Repeat steps 4 and 5 on the other
end of the cuff.
Edging
[1] Tie an overhand knot at the end
of 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread. Sew between
the layers of the cuff next to one end
of a crimp end, exiting the front of the
fish leather and hiding the knot between
the layers.
[2] Pick up two 110 seed beads, and sew
down through the fish leather and the
Ultrasuede about two bead-width’s away
from where your needle exited. Sew back
up through both layers and the last 110
just picked up. Snug up the beads.
[3] Pick up an 110, sew down through
both layers, and sew back up through
the 110 just picked up. Repeat this stitch
along this edge until you reach the next
crimp end.
[4] Sew through the layers to exit at the
other end of the crimp end, and work as
in steps 2 and 3 to edge the other side
of the cuff. Sew through the layers to
exit the first 110 picked up in step 2.
[5] Pick up three 3 mm round crystals,
skip two 110s, sew down through the
next 110, and sew up through the
following 110. Repeat this stitch along
this edge of the cuff. Don’t worry if you
have one or more leftover seed beads
next to the crimp end.
[6] Turn, and sew through the beadwork
to exit the center 3 mm in the last threebead set added in the previous step.
Pick up three 3 mms, and sew through
the center 3 mm in the next three-bead
set. Repeat this stitch for the length of
this edge. Sew between the layers of the
cuff to exit the 110 closest to the other
end of the crimp end.
[7] Work as in steps 5 and 6 to embellish
the other edge of the cuff with 3 mm
crystals. End the thread in the beadwork
(Online Basics). w
B&B Extra
|
December 2013 19
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