Marta SEWING TIPS FROM McCall’s 4598 Palmer/Pletsch Classic Blazer M5433 This pink wool gabardine makes any day feel like spring. I used PerfectFuse™ TailorUltra on the front and under collar, PerfectFuse Light on the rest of the body of the jacket. M4598 McCall’s 5433 Palmer/Pletsch Perfect Shirt This is my FAVORITE pattern. This is the eighth shirt I have made, this time with pink silk with black square dots. I used PerfectFuse Sheer on the collar, bands and cuffs. McCall’s 5239 Palmer/Pletsch Perfect Pants I made this trouser in black wool gabardine. M5239 30 Marta SEWING TIPS FROM black pinstripe stretch cotton. This is shirt number nine, and number 10 is red rayon batik, which I don’t yet have a photo of. Once a pattern is altered to fit your body perfectly, sewing it again and again is a great value. Because of the stripes in this fabric, I re-angled the darts so they would look better. The horizontal bust dart is sewn more parallel to the crosswise grain and the vertical dart is sewn along a stripe. It shows that a fitted shirt looks pretty good on my plus-size shape. I wear it with the trouser on page 30. M5433 M5239 31 McCall’s 5433 — Palmer/Pletsch Perfect Shirt again, this time in Marta SEWING TIPS FROM McCall’s 5847 – Palmer/Pletsch Perfect Shirtdress This wonderful pattern with shoulder princess seams is perfect for the rayon batik in red and brown. I used PerfectFuse Sheer on the collar and front facing. I did add a bit of fullness to the side seams for flare. This is the long version of the pattern; I did not add extra length. 32 My Color Palette Having a color palette based on my hair color (near right) and my eye color (far right) guides me as I select fabric. Ethel Harms, who works with our workshop students, put together my palette. www.yourimageconsultant.com M5847 are you full-busted? The princess seams in McCall’s 5847 – Palmer/Pletsch Perfect Shirtdress allow you to make the bust alterations that will give you a flattering fit. If you’d like some help, turn to our newest DVD: Full-busted women buy oversized clothes so they can button the front. In this new DVD, I show you how to buy the right size pattern that will fit your neck, upper chest, and shoulder area properly. Patterns are made for a B bra cup size, so you will not get the right size by measuring your full bust. Instead, measure your “high bust” or chest area below the shoulder blades in the back and above your breasts in the front. Pull the tape snugly as this is a “skin” measurement. If you are between sizes, buy the smaller size. (Incidentally, in the 1800s, this is how James McCall and Ebeneezer Butterick recommended you buy patterns.) 33 A simple darted front is the easiest style to practice enlarging for a full bust. I also demonstrate on real people how to alter armhole and shoulder princess styles, styles with cut-on sleeves, and empire styles. For the creative person, I show how to change the position of darts or turn them into pleats. This is important because many designs don’t have darts and if you are going to do a bust alteration, you get a dart. It may be too deep so you decide to turn it into two darts and transfer one to another position. You can move darts anywhere!! For more information on this DVD, go to www.palmerpletsch.com Marta SEWING TIPS FROM Butterick 5101 I used a gray print rayon knit for this two-piece dress. The wrap top has a tie. I added PerfectFuse Sheer interfacing in the facing and that kept the front from stretching. The skirt is a mock wrap with drapes. I sewed the two side seams and then used the coverlock to hem it before attaching the skirt part to the yoke. This pattern is very easy to sew! You can purchase this pattern at www.butterick.com 34 Marta SEWING TIPS FROM McCall’s 5767 – Palmer/Pletsch Perfect Coat and Tote This coat is a redo of our pattern from 1985, with the addition of a great tote. Ultrasuede® is still perfect for this coat. I made this one three-quarter length because I still have my original coat from 1985 in the long length—Ultrasuede lasts forever! Just lap the seams, fuse with fusible web, and topstitch. The tote is in a cotton print with Ultrasuede straps. I used our Perfect Waistband™ interfacing in the straps to make them very strong. I added a silk sheer scarf—just 1/4 yard of 60”-wide silk. Roll edge the long edges with a stitch length of 4, holding the silk taut as you serge. I hand stitched beaded trim to the ends. 35 M5767 Marta SEWING TIPS FROM McCall’s 5860 Palmer/Pletsch Perfect Jean Jacket I used a red cotton print for this pattern with armhole princess seams. The seams were topstitched before the embroidery was done. I did leave the shoulder seams open to make it easier. I used PerfectSew™ in the area I embroidered, then washed it and let it hang to dry. The design is from Amazing Designs “Eyelet Illusions” #113. Sewing in black rayon thread, I repeated the design three times on the front and five times on the back, tilting it at different angles for interest. PerfectFuse Sheer is the interfacing on collar and cuffs and front facing. 36 M5860 Marta SEWING TIPS FROM McCall’s 5671 – Palmer/Pletsch Knit Wardrobe This pattern and this teal-colored organic sweatshirt fabric make a wonderful cozy jacket. I lengthened and narrowed the sleeve. PerfectSew™ stabilized the fabric for the outline-style embroidery from Anita Goodesign, Designer Roses. I used several of the running stitch designs in subtle colors. 37 M5671 Have you made a garment you think would fit in FASHION for Real PEOPLE ? We love to see what you’re doing and, when possible, include your projects in this publication. Send Pati photos along with a description of your garment and any special sewing techniques. Send an e-mail to patipalmer@aol.com We hope you’ve enjoyed this issue of Fashion for Real People. Love to sew? You deserve a Sewing Vacation in beautiful Portland, Oregon! • 4-DAY AND 5-DAY WORKSHOPS * OPTIONAL PROGRAMS * SHOPPING TOURS * TEACHER TRAINING * IMAGE MAKEOVERS Workshops are selling out quickly so be sure to sign up soon. Visit www.palmerpletsch.com for complete details. 38