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Intarsia-Backed High Chair
• Step by Step construction
instruction.
• A complete bill of materials.
• Exploded view and elevation
drawings.
• How-to photos with instructive
captions.
• Tips to help you complete the
project and become a better
woodworker.
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WOODWORKER'S JOURNAL
©2007 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
WJ135
Published in Woodworker’s Journal “From Start to Finish:
Quality Plans and Techniques for the Home Woodworker”
54 HOME PROJECTS
Intarsia-Backed
High Chair
H
ere’s a project that accomplishes several wonderful purposes: It creates a sturdy,
safe place to share meals with a youngster while also becoming an heirloom
furniture piece that’s sure to pass down many generations. The project also provides
an opportunity to try your hand at the ancient art of intarsia.
There’s something about wooden
high chairs that feels more inviting than
their more prosaic plastic counterparts.
And when you add Judy Gayle Roberts’
intarsia “Chowhound” to this chair, you’ve
got an inviting family heirloom. Intarsia is
essentially a mosaic of different colored
woods cut into shapes and assembled to
create an image. This design was created by renowned intarsist Judy Gale
Roberts, and she tells you how to do it
step by step on pages 64 and 65.
The chair is made from red oak
and built like a tank, yet it doesn’t look
heavy. Its wide stance makes it very
stable. We designed it to be easy to
build. The hardest part of the construction process will be keeping track of
which part is which, and which way the
angled cuts are made. The legs and
back posts have compound mitered
ends, AND they’re mirror images of
each other. To make it less confusing,
label the legs and back posts as right
and left, and label each part with front,
back, in, out, up, and down. That will
help a lot, but you may also find it helpful to hold up the parts in the orientation
they will have in the finished chair. That
way you can easily tell if you are about
to goof up on the next cut. The lower
stretchers, footrest, seat, arms and
back panel are all fit during assembly.
This eliminates
the need to be
“dead-on” when
cutting the
INTARSIA-BACKED HIGH CHAIR
55
High Chair Exploded View
MATERIAL LIST –
High Chair
TxWxL
TxWxL
1 Front Legs (2)
1 ⁄ 2" x 2 ⁄ 16" x 27 ⁄ 8"
11 Crest Rail (1)
1 ⁄ 8" x 4" x 12"
2 Back Legs (2)
11 ⁄ 2" x 2" x 211 ⁄ 4"
12 Lower Back Rail (1)
11 ⁄ 8" x 2" x 10 3 ⁄ 8"
3 Front & Back Aprons (2)
3/4" x 3" x 14 ⁄ 8"
13 Back Panel** (1)
1/2" x 10" x 12"
4 Side Aprons (2)
3/4" x 3" x 10 7 ⁄ 8"
14 Arms (2)
3/4" x 21 ⁄ 4" x 141 ⁄ 2"
5 Side Stretchers* (2)
3/4" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 15"
15 Screw Plugs (6)
3/8" Dia. x 3/8"
6 Center Stretcher* (1)
3/4" x 1" x 17"
16 Seven-On Slides (4)
7/8" Dia. nylon
7 Seat Cleats (2)
3/4" x 1 ⁄ 2" x 13 ⁄ 4"
17 Tray Hardware(2)
Steel
8 Foot Rest (1)
3/4" x 31 ⁄ 4" x 16"
18 Oak Tray (1)
Red oak
9 Seat** (1)
3/4" x 15" x 17 ⁄ 2"
19 Safety Straps (1)
Black nylon
10 Back Posts (2)
Figure 1: Use a band saw to cut the leg
tapers. Cut just to the outside of the drawn
lines. A wide band saw blade will make
straighter cuts that require less sanding.
1
3
1
1
1
3
1
11 ⁄ 2" x 2" x 15 3 ⁄ 8"
1
*Cut to length
**Oversized, see drawings and text for fabrication details.
compound miters on the leg and back
post ends, and the miters on the seat
apron ends.
As we neared the end of the construction, it was a bit difficult to fit
the back panel. It’s an odd shape and
needs to fit well. What we ended up
doing was making a template from
scrap MDF. Once that fit, we used the
template as a router guide to cut the
final back panel. Enough said, let’s
make some dust!
Making Legs, Compound
Miters and Tapers
The ends of the legs are cut
7° front to back, and 4° side to side
(see the drawings on page 62). Cutting
these compound miters is easiest done
prior to labeling and tapering the legs,
using one setup. Then you will visually
orient the pieces the way they will be
set when the chair is assembled, label
them, cut the footrest dadoes, and
make your tapers.
Cut the front and back legs (pieces
1 and 2) to the sizes given in the
Material List. Set your power miter saw
to cut a 7° miter and a 4° bevel. On
each piece cut one end, slide the leg
across the saw’s table, and cut the
56 HOME PROJECTS
High Chair
(Side View)
11
7°
10
18
6
9°
15
7°
10
14
17
13
6
9°
14
12
145/8"
17
6"
19"
9
19
5
14 /8"
4°
28" R.
6"
7
19"
25" R.
4
High Chair
(Front View)
4°
2
28" R.
3
7
3
5"
2"
25" R.
4
5
1
2
5"
3
20 /4"
2"
261/2"
8
1
6
11
2
7
12
6
161/2"
16
203/4"
195/8"
261/2"
3
8
13
1
4
6
9
11
14
2
5
7
10
12
15
3
8
13
4
9
14
5
10
15
161/2"
195/8"
5
1
INTARSIA-BACKED HIGH CHAIR
57
Figure 2: Chop mortises for biscuits on the
legs. Then cut the biscuit grooves centered
in the ends of the side aprons with a 3/8"thick spacer placed under the jointer’s fence.
This creates the 3/8" offset.
other end. This way the end cuts are
perfectly parallel (see photo, page 55).
Visually orient the legs and label
them. Lay out the dadoes on the
insides of the front legs for the footrest
(piece 8). Mount a 3/4" dado in your
table saw and angle the cut to 4° while
setting the height to 1/4". Use a miter
gauge set at 90° and cut the dadoes.
Watch how you have the legs oriented
on the miter gauge so you get the
angles going the right way. One leg is
cut with its bottom pointing right, and
the other pointing left.
Lay out the leg tapers as shown in
the drawings, then cut and sand them
smooth (see Figure 1, page 56). Lay out
and drill the footrest plug and screw
holes in the front legs.
The work that remains to get the
base assembled is fairly straightforward.
We used a self-centering doweling jig
to drill all of the base’s dowel holes,
making fast work of an otherwise
tedious job. We also used spacers with
a biscuit jointer to quickly align it when
cutting the biscuit grooves for the offset
58 HOME PROJECTS
apron to leg joints (see Figure 2, above).
Cut the front and back aprons
(pieces 3) and the side aprons (pieces
4) to the sizes shown in the Material
List. Step to your table saw to bevel the
top edges of the front and back apron
pieces 7° and the top edges of the side
apron pieces 4°. Use your power miter
saw to miter the ends of the front and
back aprons at 4° and the ends of the
side aprons at 9°. Lay out and cut the
gentle curves on the aprons as shown
in the Technical Drawings on page 63.
Locate and cut the apron and leg
biscuit joints. Use the back legs to find
the height of the apron pieces on the
front legs. Remember that the biscuits
that join the side aprons to the front
legs are #0s, the rest are #20s. The
side aprons are set back 3/8" from the
outsides of the legs, and the front and
back aprons are held back 3/4" from
the non-tapered edges of the legs.
Cut the side and center stretchers
(pieces 5 and 6) to size, but leave them
a bit long. Dry-fit the front legs, back
legs and side aprons together as two
separate side assemblies. Miter the
ends of the side stretchers to 9°, slowly
nibbling away at their lengths until they
fit between the front and back legs.
Mark where the ends of the side
stretchers land on the insides of the
legs. Dismantle the dry-assembled
base sides. Lay out and drill the leg to
side stretcher dowel holes. Now dryassemble the entire base and fit the
center stretcher just as you did the
side stretchers. When it fits properly,
dismantle the base completely, and lay
out and drill dowel holes to join center
stretcher and side stretchers.
Rout the large roundovers on the
outside edges of the legs and the
smaller radius on the legs, aprons, and
stretchers (see the drawings). When
rounding over the front legs, be careful
to keep the bit’s bearing from falling into
the footrest dadoes and screw plug
cover holes or you’ll mess up your front
legs in a hurry!
Make and attach the seat cleats
(pieces 7). The edges that join with the
front and back aprons are cut at a 7°
bevel, and the screw holes in the back
seat cleat are elongated to allow for
movement of the seat.
Finish sand the base parts. Glue
and clamp the legs, side aprons, and
side stretchers together to make the
base side subassemblies. When these
assemblies are dry, glue and clamp
them together with the front and back
aprons and center stretcher. Use a flat
surface so the chair won’t rock after it’s
assembled (see Figure 3, below).
Rout or chop a groove for the
front center seat safety strap on the
top of the front apron and seat cleat,
checking to see that the strap fits well
in its groove.
Making the Seat
The seat is made large to begin with
so you can cut off and fit the front edge
between the front legs, then reattach that
piece. This method is much easier than
trying to hand-cut angled notches on the
seat’s front corners.
Make the seat (piece 9) by edgegluing three boards together, cutting it
to size after the glue has cured. Slice
13⁄4" off its front edge at a 9° bevel (see
drawings). Bevel the ends of this piece
4° so it fits between the front legs.
Edge-glue the seat front piece back on
the seat blank flush and centered. Set
the seat on the base and mark it to cut
the final shape of the seat. Refer to the
Figure 3: Glue and clamp the base parts together on a flat
surface. Laying a board across the tops of the side and front
aprons will ensure that the front apron is at the proper height.
drawing on page 57. Cut the shape,
radius the back corners and rout the
1/2" radius roundover edges, then
finish-sand the seat.
Forming the Back Frame
Next, cut the back posts (pieces
10) to size. Cutting the ends of the
back posts is a little different than doing
the legs. Miter the bottom ends with a
6° miter and a 4° bevel. With these settings, cut one back post end with that
back post to the left of the saw blade,
and cut the other back post end with
that back post to the right of the saw
blade. Visually orient the back posts
and label them, then lay out and cut the
Figure 4: Hold the back posts as shown at
left on the assembled base with the seat in
place. Then locate the bottom of the dado
cuts using the tops of the front legs as
guides. Later, (below) you’ll attach the
armrests with glue and screws.
8° bevels on the top ends.
Mark the locations of the arm
dadoes on the back posts (see Figure
4, above). Complete the dado layouts
with a bevel square so you can see the
entire cut. On a table saw, use a 3/4"
wide dado blade set to 4° bevel, and a
miter gauge set to 6° to make one of
the cuts. You’ll need to adjust the miter
gauge to -6° to make the cut in the
other back post. Lay out, cut, and sand
the tapers on the back edges of the
back posts.
Cut the crest rail (piece 11) and
lower back rail (piece 12) to size. Lay
out the arcs on the crest rail using information found on the drawings. Cut the
4° mitered ends on the crest rail and
lower back rail. Cut and sand the arcs
on the crest rail. Using a 1/2" rabbeting
bit, rout the rabbets on the crest rail
and lower back rail.
Chop the biscuit grooves that join
the leg posts and crest rail. The crest
rail is set back 1/4" from the fronts of
the back posts, so this time use a 1/4"
60 HOME PROJECTS
spacer with your biscuit jointer. Lay
out and drill the dowel holes that join
the lower back rail and back posts.
Hold it back 1/4" from the fronts of the
back posts. We used dowel centers to
mark the dowel hole locations on the
back posts, and then drilled those holes
on a drill press. Don’t assemble the
back frame yet.
Making the Back Panel
You’re now at one of the more
tedious aspects of the construction,
that being fitting the back panel inside
the back frame. We tried many different
ways to make this easier. The best
solution was to make a template of
the shape, and then use the template
with a router and a top-bearing, flushtrimming pattern bit to cut the shape
of the final back panel (piece 13).
Here’s how it’s done: Using scrap
1/4" material, make a template of the
inside arc of the crest rail. Dry-assemble
(don’t use glue) the back posts and
rails. Find a scrap piece of 1/2"-thick
MDF that’s a bit larger than the back
panel. Using a miter gauge on a table
saw, cut 4° angles onto the sides of
template, but leave it wider than needed. Set the test panel between the
back posts and check that the cut side
angles are correct. Then nibble away at
one side until the test panel fits against
the lower back rail and back posts
properly. When you get it right, mark
where the crest rail inside arc ends
intersect with the test panel. Use the
arc template you made earlier to lay out
the arc on the top of the test back
panel. Cut this curve slightly large, then
trim it until the “test” back panel fits.
You’ll be able to move the crest rail up
or down a bit to help improve the fit.
Now you have your back panel template. Cut the oak plywood back panel
to size (piece 13). On the band saw,
trim it a bit larger than the back template. Screw the back template to the
oak back panel piece, and templaterout the final shape.
Assembling the Back
Drill the back post to arm screw
holes. Rout the back post, crest rail
and lower back rail rounded over
edges. Finish-sand the back frame parts.
Glue and clamp the parts together with
the back panel template set in place
to align the crest rail. Remove the back
panel template right after you apply
the clamps.
Use the assembled back frame
to lay out the back posts to seat screw
hole locations. Drill 1/16" holes to transfer the hole locations from the top of
the seat to the bottom of the seat. Drill
1"-diameter x 1/8"-deep counterbore
holes at these spots on the underside
of the seat, then drill 5/16"-diameter
holes through the 1/16"-diameter holes.
These oversized holes will allow you
to shift the back frame around a bit to
align it when you’re attaching the arms.
Loosely screw the back frame to the
seat, then set that assembly in place
on the base.
Making and Fitting the
Arms and Footrest
Cut the arms (pieces 14) and
footrest (piece 8) to size. Lay out and
cut the notches on the backs of the
arms and ends of the footrest. Find
the shapes of these pieces shown
in the drawings. Round over the edges,
but don’t go all the way to the ends
where the backs of the arms meet the
back posts or where the back edge of
the footrest meets the legs. Instead,
“blend” those ends to their adjoining
pieces by sanding.
Set the arms in place to check alignment, shifting the back if necessary. When
you get it right, slide the seat backwards
just enough to snug up the seat to back
post screws. Push the seat back in position and check the arm alignments again.
Then screw the seat to the base, and
glue and screw the arms to the back
posts and to the tops of the front legs.
Glue and screw the footrest in place.
Final Touches
Make the screw plugs (pieces 15)
using a 3/8"-diameter plug cutter. Glue
them in place, trim and sand them flush.
Make and apply the intarsia to
the back panel (see the article on pages
64 and 65). Do any remaining finish
sanding, and ease any sharp edges.
Apply two coats of finish to the chair,
tray, and intarsia back panel.
After a few days, secure the back
panel to the chair with epoxy. Attach the
tray hardware and tray, the seat safety
straps and the leg bottom glides (pieces
16 through 19). That’s it…you’re done.
It’s best to wait a couple of weeks for
the finish to cure before using the high
chair. A general rule of thumb is; if you
can smell the finish, it’s not fully dry.
Now it’s time to feed those future
generations: whether they’re chowhounds
or picky eaters, both will enjoy this beautiful and practical heirloom.
QuickTip
Drum Sander JIg
When using a drum sander in the drill press, the sandpaper at the bottom
always wears out first. To remedy this, make a sanding box out of 3/4"
particleboard that clamps to the drill press table. Cut a 31⁄2"-diameter hole
in the top of the box for a 3" drum and a 11⁄2" hole in the bottom for a 1"
drum. Make the sides tall enough to fit the drums. You can now raise the
table or lower the chuck to use all the sanding surface.
Large hole
Small hole
INTARSIA-BACKED HIGH CHAIR
61
23/16
2"3/16"
15/81"5/8"
11/81"1/8"
111
5
9 /8"
6°
3" 3"
4° 4°
8° 8°
3"
3"
Technical
10
7° 7°
94°
Drawings
3 3 2"
94°
2" 2"
15315
/8"3/8"
1
/2"1/2"
3
/8"3/8"
11
84°84°
11
4° 4°
Crest Rail
1 /8"
4° 4°
/4"3/4"
28" R.
11/8"
1
95/89"5/8"
1010
4° 4°
1
/2"
/4"1/4"
153/8"
1
11/21"1/2"
/8"1/8" 21"21"
14114
26726
/8"7/8"
/4"
(Front View)
251/2" R.
(Front View)
9° 9°
13
55
4°
Front Leg
3
Side Stretcher
Notch
Notch
forfor
safety
safety
strap
st
(Inside View)
23/16"
15/8"
3
/4"
7°
12"
1
11/8"
3
/8"3/8"
/2"1/2"
3"
(Front View)
2" 2"
94°
25" R. 1 1
1 /81" /8"
/2"6
1
4° 4°
/4"
10
4°
4°
4° 4°2" 7° 7°
94°
6
3
10
8°
6°
95/8"
11Center Stretcher
1
4°
g
4°
119/16"
1212
9° 9°
2"
1
84°
94°94°
28" R.
/2"
11/8"
/8"
2" 2"
7
2" 2"
/4"3/4"
3
4°
6° 6°
1
3
4°
25" R.
1010
/8"
12
3"
1313
23/16"
3
4°
8°
11
22
(Front and End Views)
103/8"
5
3
7° 7°
Lower Back Rail
(Front and End Views)
12"
105/16"
88
11/2"
153/8"
/8"
84°
11/41"1/4"
9°
7°
2
5
10 /16"
5
119/16"
3
/8"
(Side10
View)
3
/8"
/4"
(Front View)
1
/2"
13
11
15/8"
4°
95/8"
6°
1
6
10
2" 141/8"
267/8"
153/8"
1
/8"
84°
7°
3
11/2"
3
105/16"
/4°
4"
/4"
3"
94°
/2"
3
11/4"
2"
1
4°
7°
11/8" 4°
4°
8°
3"
94°
23/16"
2"
12
10
11/8"
4°
3
Back Post
251/2" R.
141/8"
1
11/41"1/4"
4°
2"
7° 7°
267/8"
1
21"
1
9°
4°
7°
2
5
4°
2"
3
3
3
10 /8"
1
13
/2"
10
95/8"
4°
2"
12
4°
/4"
/8"
11/8"
4°
6
10
4°3/4"
7°
1
/4"
11/4"
6°
2"
9°
11/4"
11/2"
94°
267/8"
141/8"
21"
Note: The outside edges of the legs and back
9° posts (pieces 1, 2 and 10) are formed with a 1/2" roundover, as are the top edges
of the seat. All other roundovers are 1/4". The rear corners of the seat (piece 9) are 1/2" radii.
Notch for safet
5
3
/8"
62 HOME
PROJECTS
1
/2"
12
2"
4°
4°
8
7°
7°
Glue line
4°
7°
2"
9
9° bevel
3
13/4"
1
23/1614
" /8"
4° bevel
Glue line
4°
7°
7°
2"
3
3"
9° bevel
3
9° Leg
Back
(Side View)
141/8"
4°
4° bevel
2"
4
1
3"
4
gentle slope
7°
Seat
Arm
2
9
9°
(Top View)
(Top View)
107/8"
4°
3
/8"
11/4" R.
2"
3
/4"
73"
4
9°
13/4"
strap
3"
2"
3
7° bevel
Glue
4 line
4°
7°
gentle slope
9° bevel
3
107/8"
/8"
13/4"
14strap9°
Notch for safety
8"
11/2" R.
2"
4
3
2 /16"
9°
4°
3"
4
7°
16"
1
4°
/2" R.
gentle slope
4°
7°
2"
3
3"
8
107/8"
21/4"
4°
3
3" 1
1
2" 1 /4"
2"
16"
1
11/4"
3
7
141/8"
Notch for safety strap
4°
2"
3
7°
7°
141/28""
7°
2
7° bevel
9°
2
Side
Apron
9°
2"
10
/4"
8
4
2"
141/2"
4
/4"
4°13/4"
3
21"
7
/2"
2"
11/8"
7° bevel
141/
3
/8"
1
/2"
14
Front
3
/8"
7° bevel
and Back Aprons
(Front and End Views)
13/4"
11/2" R.
7°
11/4"
16"
8
141/2"
3
/8"
1 /2" R.
2"
2"
9° bev
8"
3
16"
3
1
11/2"7°R.
14
3
3"
7°
13/4"
4°
8
7°
8
/4"
1
12 7
3
Notch
safety strap
/4" for4°
1
7°
4°
/8"
103/8"
7
Notch
for safety strap2 /16"
(Top View)
4°
4°
3
4
7° bevel
3
11/4" 1 /4"
14
141/8"
8"
4° be
1
1
/2" R.
1
7°
16"
1
1 /4"
4°
2"
107/8"
(Top View)
1
/2" R.
3
/8"
1
21/4"1 /4" R.
13/4"
Notch for safety strap
10
3"
/8"
1
141/8"
3
4
Seat 1Cleats
/ " R.
9°
Foot Rest
4
8"
16"
267/8"
94°
14
4
107/8"
gentle slope
107/8"
84°
gentle slope
105/16"
11/2" R.
3"
4
1 /2"
11/4"
94°
9°
/8"
3
9°
1
11
4°
3" 9°
gentle slope
7°
11/8"
3
(Front and End Views)
1
13/4"
3"
Note: Rip the front edge off with your blade set at 9°.
Re-glue after trimming the front edge to length (with a
4° bevel at each end).
1
25" R.
7° bevel
/2"
3
/8"
4° 9
1
14 /2"
4°
3
/8"
Back Panel
7°
9
(Front
View)
Glue line
2
"
3
3"
119/16"
13/4"
14
11/2" R.
3
8"
9° bevel
1
/8"
25
/
2" R.
Glue line
11/4" R.
1
3 14 /8"
1 /4"
13
13/4"
9°bevel
bevel
4°
1
/2" R.
13/4"
95/8"
6°
21/4"
9°
4° bevel
4°
2"
15/8"
11/4" R.
7
21"
2
/8"
28" R.
3
14 /8"
12"
4° bevel
141/2"
1
3
13/4"
141/8"
2"
2
13/4"
7°
21/4"
INTARSIA-BACKED HIGH CHAIR
2
1
/2" R.
2"
21/4"
63
9°
4°
INTARSIA “CHOWHOUND”
Intarsia is a mosaic of different colors and species of wood that are carefully
cut and put together to create a picture.
Judy Gale Roberts has been creating intarsia patterns
for more than 25 years, and she has over 10 books on the
subject to her credit, including Easy to Make Inlay Wood
Projects and Intarsia Workbook, both available from Fox
Chapel Publishing. Sometimes her ideas are inspired by
wood grain; other times it will be a specific “prize board.”
Her background is in sculpture (ceramic, metal and mixed
media), and she greatly enjoys the sculptural aspect of
intarsia. “The wood comes to life when you start shaping
each part,” Judy says.
Judy works in partnership with her husband, Jerry
Booher. They offer a free intarsia newsletter with more
than 225 patterns, available by calling 800-316-9010 or
e-mailing jerry@intarsia.com.
For Judy’s “chowhound” intarsia, make multiple copies
of the pattern (see the Pinup Shop Drawing), then cut the
pattern pieces apart and attach them to the wood. The
arrows indicate grain direction. Cut the pieces out on your
scroll saw, cutting directly on the line. (Note: Do not sand to
fit: you risk sanding the sides at an angle that will cause problems when you begin shaping the project.) After cutting out
the pieces, leave the paper on and assemble the parts into a
whole picture. If there is a lot of the line left and the project
isn’t fitting, put a new blade in your scroll saw and trim to fit
on the scroll saw.
Once the pieces are fitting into the pattern, remove the
paper. Number the parts by writing the number on the back
side of the pieces of wood—this will help to keep you from
shaping the wrong side of a piece.
Using a spindle sander to round the edges of each piece
of the pup will give the intarsia a “quilt-like” appearance, and
make things more comfortable for the child in the high chair.
After shaping the pieces, apply three coats of finish, but
leave the bottom of each piece finish-free. Apply the finish to
each part individually in case you need to sand between
coats, making it easier to sand with the grain. Let the finish
dry, then glue the intarsia down.
Judy Gale
Roberts is a true
intarsia artist
and the author
of many books
on the subject.
Judy is credited
for much of the
renewed interest
in the ancient art
of intarsia.
64 HOME PROJECTS
Use a
scroll saw to
cut out the individual
pieces. Do your best to cut right on
the line. Return to the scroll saw to trim
any intarsia pieces that don’t fit well.
Figure 1: Make several copies of the pattern. Cut out each piece with
a scissors. Gluing one copy of the intact pattern to a piece of 1/4" hardboard will come in handy later, during the assembly of all the pieces.
Figure 2: Glue the cutout pattern pieces to selected chunks of wood.
Take note of the arrows that indicate grain direction. The direction and
figure of the grain provide depth and texture in the finished piece.
Figure 4: With all the parts numbered on their back faces, remove
the paper and examine how the parts fit together. If necessary, this is
the time to make a new piece to create just the look you are after.
Figure 3: Dry-fit the parts together. Number your master copy of the
pattern (seen below the wooden pieces) and transfer the numbers to
the back of the cutout pieces. Carefully fit them together.
Figure 5: Gently break the edges of the pieces to create a “quiltlike” effect. Remember to be consistent…there are lots of pieces to
shape and they will be viewed in relationship to each another.
INTARSIA-BACKED HIGH CHAIR
65
Pinup Shop Drawings
M
M
D
1/4"
LT
W
D
M
M
3/8"
W
D
1/4"
D
W
M
M
M
1/4"
W
LT
W
W
D
M
M
Note: grain direction for each piece is
indicated with arrows.
Pinup Shop Drawings
M
M
D
1/4"
D
3/8"
D
LT
M
D
1/4"
D
W
M
W
M
1/4"
W
D
M
Wood color code:
M = medium, W = white, Lt = light and D= dark
The following products can be purchased from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware.
High Chair Hardware .............. SKU #30866
Safety Strap ........................... SKU #85771
Oak Tray ................................ SKU #32418
Toymaker’s Finish .................. SKU #19655
Seven-On Slides (7/8" Dia.) .... SKU #31035
Go to http://rockler.com to purchase or call 1-800-610-0883
© 2011Woodworker’s Journal