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DWD Free Pattern #17 – Basic Cardigan for Mattel’s Barbie Doll
The pattern I designed is a basic shaped cardigan for Mattel’s Barbie. It has an easy raglan
sleeve design with instructions for long as well as short sleeves. The cardigan’s front bands are
worked in a seed stitch pattern while you knit the body so there is no need to pick up stitches at
the end. The only difficult part is the very small gauge I used in order to make it in scale for this
doll. The pattern is quite versatile and you can use it to make Barbie several kinds of sweaters.
Once you get used to the “micro” knitting your Barbie can have a wonderful array of sweaters.
Rating: #2 – Intermediate. Although you only need to know how to knit and purl, you must
be able to read instructions, and increase and decrease stitches. Uses very fine lace weight (2ply) yarn on size 5/0 (00000 or 1 mm) needles with a gauge 19 stitches per inch and 26 rows per
inch.
DollsWest Designs
Cynthia Berrier
532 Crestview Road
Kalispell, MT 59901
dollswest@centurytel.net
© 2012 DollsWest Designs
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Basic Shaped Cardigan for Barbie
Yarn: Filatura di Crosa Nirvana Merino Wool lace weight yarn from www.yarn.com
Gauge 19 stitches per inch, 26 rows per inch on 5/0 (00000 or 1.0 mm) needles in stockinette
stitch.
Supplies: 100 yards or meters yarn, six 1/8-inch (2 mm) buttons
Model is wearing Natural (www.yarn.com does ship worldwide)
READ THROUGH INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE YOU BEGIN!
TAKE TIME TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE!
Important note regarding knitting with 5/0 needles and very fine yarn: If you have not knit
with any needles smaller than a size 2 (or 3mm) needle, I would highly suggest you start out with
some of my other free patterns that use a size 2/0 (00 or 1.75 mm) needles. Or if you feel you
are up to it, knit a few practice blocks or perhaps a scarf for your doll using the 5/0 (00000 or 1
mm) needles with the recommended yarn mentioned above. Even I found knitting with this yarn
a challenge. It is rather “bouncy” and often splits. You MUST hold the yarn with a consistent
tension in order to produce even stitches. And be careful not to drop any stitches. It is difficult
to pick them up. I recommend using Hiya Hiya steel circular needles in either 16-inch or 20-inch
length.
Definition:
tbl : through back loop (I use this method for a simple K1, P1 rib as it makes the stitches
tighter and neater looking on a small scale sweater. If you wish, you can do a simple K1, P1 rib.)
Sleeves (Long):
Using 5/0 (1.0 mm) needles, Cast on 27 sts
Start Rib Pattern and work as follows:
Row 1: (RS) K1, [P1, K1 tbl]* Repeat to last 2 sts, P1, K1
Row 2: (WS) P1, [K1 tbl, P1]* Repeat to end
Repeat rows 1 and 2 through row 8
Row 9: (RS) Begin stockinette stitch, K all sts
Row 10: (WS) P
Rows 11 through row 22: Repeat rows 9 and 10, working even in stockinette stitch pattern
Row 23: (RS) K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1 (29 sts)
Rows 24 through row 42: Repeat rows 9 and 10, working even in stockinette stitch pattern
Row 43: (RS) K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1 (31 sts)
Rows 44 through row 64: Repeat rows 9 and 10, working even in stockinette stitch pattern
Row 65: (RS) Cast off (Bind off) 2 stitches at beginning of row. Knit rest of sts (29 sts)
Row 66: (WS) Cast off (Bind off) 2 stitches at beginning of row. Purl rest of sts. (27 sts)
Row 67: (RS) K1, SSK, Knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (25 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving at least an 8-inch tail. Leave sleeve on spare needle. Work second sleeve in
the same manner. Steam and block sleeves while they are flat. Do NOT stretch out the ribbing.
Let dry thoroughly while you work on the body.
© 2012 DollsWest Designs
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Sleeves (short):
Using 5/0 (1.0 mm) needles, Cast on 29 sts
Start Rib Pattern and work as follows:
Row 1: (RS) K1, [P1, K1 tbl]* Repeat to last 2 sts, P1, K1
Row 2: (WS) P1, [K1 tbl, P1]* Repeat to end
Repeat rows 1 and 2 through row 8
Row 9: (RS) K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1 (31 sts)
Row 10: (WS) P all sts
Row 11: (RS) K all sts
Row 12: (WS) P all sts
Rows 13 through row 20: Repeat rows 11 and 12, working even in stockinette stitch pattern
Row 21: (RS) Cast off 2 stitches at beginning of row. Knit rest of sts (29 sts)
Row 22 (WS) Cast off 2 stitches at beginning of row. Purl rest of sts. (27 sts)
Row 23: (RS) K1, SSK, Knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. (25 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving at least an 8-inch tail. Leave sleeve on spare needle.
Work second sleeve in the same manner. Steam and block sleeves while they are flat. Let dry
thoroughly while you work on the body.
Note: If you wish a three-quarter-length sleeve, work the same as the short sleeve version,
except knit through row 44, then work your three reduction rows on 45, 46, and 47.
Body:
NOTE: The first five stitches and last five stitches will be worked in a seed stitch pattern. This
will form your front bands. This will be worked on EVERY row and written as [P1, K1, P1, K1,
P1]. Working this same stitch pattern on every row creates your seed stitch pattern so it will
look apart from the stockinette stitch pattern used on your sweater body. I placed a marker
between my body and the front bands. This is optional and will not be mentioned in the
instructions.
On the RIGHT front band, you will be working 6 buttonholes.
The buttonholes will be worked on the following row numbers:
Body: rows 4, 17, 30 and 43
Raglan reduction section: row 12
Neckline Ribbing: row 3
The instructions will be given on the above rows. I have highlighted the specified rows in
BOLD. This spacing is for the length of the body given. If for some reason you change your
row count, you will need to adjust your buttonhole placements.
You will also be increasing the stitch count on 4 rows in order to shape the sweater for Barbie. I
give instructions for two methods you can use to increase stitches. You can choose whichever
one you prefer. However, use the same method for all four rows. I have underlined the row
number you are to work the increases on. The increase rows are: 11, 17, 23 and 29.
© 2012 DollsWest Designs
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Using 5/0 (1.0 mm) needles, Cast on 85 sts. Start Rib Pattern and work as follows:
Row 1: (RS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K1 tbl, P1]* Repeat to last 6 sts, K1 tbl, [P1, K1, P1, K1,
P1]
Row 2: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], P1, [K1 tbl, P1]*Repeat to last 5 sts, then [P1, K1, P1, K1,
P1]
Row 3: (RS) Repeat row 1
Row 4: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], P1, [K1 tbl, P1]*Repeat to last 5 sts, then [P1, K1, YO,
K2tog, P1]
Rows 5 through 10: Repeat rows 1 and 2
Row 11: (RS) Begin stockinette stitch, while continuing to work front bands
[P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K9, KFB]* Work 7 times then K to front band, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] (92
sts sts)
NOTE: I found working KFB rather than a M1 stitch, as it eliminated holes. This is the method
I prefer to add in stitches across a row. If you prefer the M1 method, here are the instructions:
[P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K10, M1]* Work 7 times then K to front band [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] (92
sts)
Row 12: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], P to last 5 sts, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1]
Rows 13 through row 16: Work even in stockinette stitch pattern while continuing to
work the first five and last five sts in your established seed stitch pattern for the front bands
Row 17: (RS) [P1, K1, YO, K2tog, P1], [K10, KFB]* Work 7 times then K to front band, [P1,
K1, P1, K1, P1] (99 sts)
Or work the following: [P1, K1, YO, K2tog, P1], [K11, M1]* Work 7 times then K to front
band, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1]
Row 18: Repeat row 12
Rows 19 through 22: Work even in stockinette stitch pattern while continuing to work the first
five and last five sts in your established seed stitch pattern for the front bands
Row 23: (RS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K11, KFB]* Work 7 times then K to front band, [P1, K1,
P1, K1, P1] (106 sts)
Or work as: [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K12, M1]* Work 7 times then K to front band, [P1, K1, P1,
K1, P1] (106 sts)
Row 24: (WS) Repeat row 12
Rows 25 through 28: Work even in stockinette stitch pattern while continuing to work the first
five and last five sts in your established seed stitch pattern for the front bands
Row 29: (RS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K12, KFB]* Work 7 times then K to front band, [P1, K1,
P1, K1, P1] (113 sts)
Or work as: [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K13, M1]* Work 7 times then K to front band, [P1, K1, P1,
K1, P1] (113 sts)
Row 30: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], P to last 5 sts, [P1, K1, YO, K2otg, P1],
Rows 31 through row 42: Work even in stockinette stitch pattern while continuing to work the
first five and last five sts in your established seed stitch pattern for the front bands
Row 43: (RS) [P1, K1, YO, K2tog, P1], K25, Bind off 6 sts, K41, Bind off 6 sts, K25, [P1, K1,
YO, K2tog, P1] (101 sts)
While body is flat, steam and block it. Let dry thoroughly. See photo on last page to see how
I block mine so it keeps the correct shape.
© 2012 DollsWest Designs
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Row 42: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], P to first bind off section, place marker, purl in first sleeve
from your spare in the bind off section, place marker, P to second bind off section, place marker,
purl in second sleeve in the bind off section, place marker, P to last 5 sts, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1]
(151 sts)
You will have 4 markers on your needles. You will need to “squish” the sleeve stitches in
between each front and back section. You will NOW be knitting the front, sleeve, back, sleeve,
and front. After working a few decrease rows, the knitting will become easier.
You will now begin to work decrease for simulated raglan sleeves. You will be reducing the
stitch count by 8 sts on every odd numbered (right side) row. Row count begins again!
Row 1: (RS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] [K to 2 sts before marker, K2tog, sl marker, SSK]* Work four
times then K to last 5 sts, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] (143 sts)
Row 2: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] P to last 5 sts, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1]
Rows 3 through 11: Repeat rows 1 and 2.
Row 12: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1] P to last 5 sts, [P1, K1, YO, K2tog, P1]
Rows 13 through 22: Repeat rows 1 and 2: Stitch count on row 22 = 63 sts
Remove markers while purling across row 22
Keep all live stitches on needle. DO NOT CUT YARN!
Neck ribbing:
Row 1: (RS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], [K1 tbl, P1]* Repeat to last 6 sts, K1 tbl, [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1]
Row 2: (WS) [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1], P1, [K1 tbl, P1]*Repeat to 5 sts, then [P1, K1, P1, K1, P1]
Row 3: (RS) [P1, K1, YO, K2tog, P1], [K1 tbl, P1]* Repeat to last 6 sts, K1 tbl, [P1, K1, P1, K1,
P1]
Row 4: (WS) Repeat row 2
Rows 5 and 6: Repeat rows 1 and 2
Row 7: (RS) Bind off all sts in pattern
Seam up sleeve seams and under arm seam. Weave in all yarn ends.
Sew six small buttons (1/8 inch) on left front side to match up with buttonholes. Steam and
block and let dry thoroughly.
NOTE: My Barbie is the 35th Anniversary special that was out several years ago. I do not
know if she is the same size as a brand new Barbie. Do check your fit while you are knitting if
you are using another Barbie body or a doll similar to Barbie.
© 2012 DollsWest Designs
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Abbreviations
Beg Beginning
B/O Bind off (cast off sts)
C4F Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold at front of work, K2, K2 from cn
C4B Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold at back of work, K2, K2 from cn
CC
Contrast Color
CN
Cable needle
C/O Cast on
Cont Continue
Dc
Double crochet
Dec Decrease
DPN(s) Double pointed needle(s)
Foll Following
Inc
Increase
KFB Knit 1 in front and back of stitch
K2tog Knit 2 together
K3tog Knit 3 together
M1
Make one
M1P Make one Purl
MC Main Color
P
Purl
P2tog Purl 2 together
PFB Purl1 in front and back of stitch
PM
Place Marker
PSSO Pass slipped stitch over
Rem Remaining
Rep Repeat
RS
Right Side
Sc
Single crochet
Sl
slip
SKP Slip, Knit, Pass
SK2P Slip 1, Knit 2 together, Pass slipped stitch over
SSK Slip, Slip, Knit OR slip 2 stitches one at a time, knit 2 slipped stitches together
St(s) Stitch(es)
St st Stockinette stitch
WS Wrong side
WYIB With yarn in back
WYIF With yarn in front
Yfwd Yarn forward, or to the front, knit next stitch
YO
Yarn Over
NEEDLE SIZE
US Size
5/0
4/0
3/0
2/0
0
1
2
Metric size
1mm 1.2mm 1.5mm 1.75mm 2mm 2.5mm
3 mm
© 2012 DollsWest Designs
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RULES TO KNIT BY
For successful doll knitting, I have found the following “Rules to Knit By” work
every time to produce successful results.
1. Make a swatch and check your gauge. I knit up my swatch
and let it “rest” over night. This way the yarn has a chance
to relax and be more accurate. Also, and even more
important, check your gauge (tension) while you are
knitting. Keep an even tension and correct it early to avoid
wasting hours of knitting only to have a sweater that does
not quite fit!
2. Read through the instructions first, before you begin.
Check all the terms and abbreviations used to make sure
you understand how the garment is to be made. If there is a
new technique in the pattern, practice it first on a scrap
piece before you attempt it on your garment.
3. For doll knitting, I found knitting only with natural yarns
work the best. I prefer wool, silk, alpaca or blends of these
yarns. I do not like to waste my time on inferior yarns. I
do not recommend “sock yarn” for any of my patterns.
4. Steam and block your sweater! This is like “pressing”
when you sew. I do it several times while knitting. This
insures a wonderful finished product that looks
professional.
© 2012 DollsWest Designs
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Blocking Sweater Body:
NOTE: I block all my sweaters on my counter top in the laundry room. I use a portable ironing
pad I purchased from Joann’s. It has a nice cushy pad. On top I fold a white terry towel in half.
I place my sweater on the towel and stick my pins straight down into the sweater. I use a good
steam iron on the “wool” setting and hover above about 1 inch. I push my “steam” button on my
iron for a few bursts of steam. I lightly “press” with my fingers to make sure it is even and
smooth. Then I let the garment dry a few hours or overnight.
The round dark spots you see are the shadows from my pin heads!
© 2012 DollsWest Designs
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