Download Report

Best Of
Scarves
On Four Shafts
A Baker’s Dozen
+
S
carves are a handweaver’s favorite textile to make. They are narrow, so warping is quick. They allow playing with structure,
color, and yarns without a huge investment in time or money. They can hang on a wall, drape over a chair, or dress up an outfit. They are both art and function—and you can never have too many of them.
In this fourth volume of our Best of Handwoven series, you’ll find thirteen terrific projects (more than thirteen scarves) on four shafts
(or fewer!). There are warm and woolly scarves, silky dressy scarves, scarves with fancy patterns and scarves with fancy textured
yarns. There are spaced warps and novelty warps, hand-plied patterned wefts and beaded wefts. You’ll find twill, plain weave,
Bronson lace, huck lace, seersucker, supplementary warp, supplementary weft, and more.
The scarves in this volume are gathered from twenty years of Handwoven magazine (1979–1999). Enjoy weaving them and
then give them as gifts or watch your personal scarf collection grow.
CONTENTS
Beginner’s Scarf in Fine White Wool — Janice Jones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Windowpane Scarf — Louise Bradley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Double Pucker Scarf — Gisela Evitt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Soft Cotton Scarf with Chenille Stripes — Joan Torgow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Scarf of the Night Skies — Kathy Bright . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Soft and Light Scarf — Helen Bobisud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Herringbone Twill Scarf — Louetta Heindl Kambic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Silk Scar ves in Huck and Bronson Lace — Vicki Tardy and Kathy Bright . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Magical Accent Scarf — Linda Flotow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Liquid Shimmer Scarf — Linda Ligon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Tip of the Twill Scar ves — Emmy Spencer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Man’s Scarf in Silk and Cotton — Janice Jones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Scar ves with Spun Shimmer — Gisela Evitt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
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Originally published in Handwoven®, March/April 1991, pp. 36–37
BEGINNER’S SCARF IN FINE WHITE WOOL
JANICE JONES
PROJECT NOTES
Anyone who is attracted to finer yarns—3,000 yd/lb or
more—but is intimidated by the number of warp threads
needed for even a narrow weaving will enjoy this simple
introduction. A mohair bouclé interspersed with a very fine
wool in both warp and weft produces a stable but open
fabric. The end result is a delicately soft and warm scarf
that takes no more time to weave than a much bulkier version created with “fat” yarns.
FABRIC DESCRIPTION
Plain weave.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
One scarf 101⁄4" x 66" plus 6" fringe on each end.
WARP and WEFT
2-ply merino wool at 3,570 yd/lb: 550 yd cream. Mohair bouclé (78% mohair, 13% wool, 9% nylon) at 980
yd/lb: 215 yd cream.
YARN SOURCES
2-ply merino (Pony) and mohair bouclé (Bolero IIA) by Henry’s
Attic are available from weaving suppliers in 8 oz skeins.
WARPING and WEAVING
Wind a warp of 142 ends 3 yd long following the warp
color order. Thread two or four shafts for plain weave. Allowing 8" for fringe (including amount used to tie on),
weave the scarf in plain weave following the weft color
order (about 76"). If the bouclé is sticky, open the next
shed before moving the beater back toward the shafts.
Leave an 8" tail for the first and last picks to include in the
fringe. Carry the 2-ply merino along the selvedge without
breaking it when you weave the 2 picks of mohair bouclé.
To weave the 2 bouclé picks, leave a tail with the first pick.
Weave the second pick, tuck in the tail, and break the
yarn so the second pick overlaps the tail.
FINISHING
Cut the scarf from the loom allowing 8" for fringe. Tie the
fringe in overhand knots close to the fell using 6 ends in
each knot. (I exchanged the last and first ends between adjacent groups to keep the warp from separating at the edge.)
Tie another knot at the end of each 6-end group to keep
the threads from tangling during washing. Wash the scarf
by hand in warm water with a mild detergent. Squeeze out
excess water with a towel and dry over a railing or shower rod. Press with a warm iron while barely damp. Trim
fringe to 6", cutting off the knots at fringe ends.
WARP COLOR ORDER
WIDTH IN REED 115⁄6".
TOTAL WARP ENDS 142.
92
12
8
8
18 18
8
8
12
2-ply merino
50 18
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
18 mohair bouclé
142
2-p
l
mo y me
ha rin
ir b o
ou
clé
E.P.I. 12.
18
WARP LENGTH
3 yd (allows 2" for take-up and 30" for loom waste; loom
waste includes fringe).
DRAFT
4
4
3
3
2
2
1 1
2
P.P.I. 14 for 2-ply merino, 6–7 for mohair bouclé.
2
1 1
WEFT
COLOR
ORDER
12
2
8
2
8
2
18
2
/
/
18
8x
2
8
/
/
2
8
2
TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 13% in width, 16% in length.
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12
2
16
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Originally published in Handwoven®, September/October 1987, p. 55; instruction supplement, p. 11
WINDOWPANE SCARF
LOUISE BRADLEY
DRAFT
PROJECT NOTES
Small squares of jewel-toned silk framed in black give
sparkle to this versatile scarf. Consider using the same idea
in other hues. Or, use the scarf as a casual belt.
FABRIC DESCRIPTION
Plain weave with supplementary warp and weft.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
One scarf 51⁄4" x 55" plus 2" fringe on each end.
WARP and WEFT
30/2 silk (item #157) at 7,850 yd/lb: 270 yd Plum
(#112) and 220 yd each of Ruby (#103), Mulberry
(#114), and Coral (#116). 10/2 pearl cotton at 4,200
yd/lb: 190 yd Black.
YARN SOURCES
All yarns are available from Halcyon Yarn.
E.P.I. 30.
WIDTH IN REED 63⁄4".
TOTAL WARP ENDS 202.
WARP LENGTH
23⁄4 yd (allows 3" for take-up and 32" for loom waste; loom
waste includes fringe).
P.P.I. 30.
TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 22% in width, 18% in length.
WARPING and WEAVING
Wind a warp of 202 ends 23⁄4 yd long following the warp
color order and thread four shafts following the draft. To
accommodate the difference in take up, the black cotton
warp threads must be beamed or weighted separately. If
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
13x
*
1 2 3 4 5 6
4 4
4
4
3 3 3
3
2
2
1
1
Change silk weft colors (first and last
6 picks and the first and last 13-pick
pattern sections are in Plum).
WARP COLOR ORDER
*
3x
36
12
36
12
36
12
42
3
3
3
3
3
3
52 2
12
12
2
202
Coral silk
Mulberry silk
Ruby silk
Black cotton
Plum silk
3x
your loom does not have a second
warp beam, slide a rod under only
the black warp threads at the back of
the loom and add weight to the rod.
Weave the first and last 6 picks
in Plum and hemstitch using the Plum
silk weft including 6 picks and 3
ends in each stitch. Notice that you’ll
also begin (and end) the scarf with
a 13-pick pattern repeat using Plum.
Weave the scarf following the
treadling draft, changing the color of
the silk weft where indicated in the
treadling by an asterisk (*). Use the
colors in the same rotation as in the
warp: Plum, Ruby, Mulberry, Coral;
end with Plum. Carry the black weft
up the selvedge when it is not in use.
Scarf length, measured under tension
on the loom, will be about 64".
*
20x
*
2x
*
FINISHING
Remove the scarf from the loom allowing about 3" for fringe at both
ends. Wash by hand in cool water
with a mild detergent; rinse well. Roll
in a towel to remove excess moisture.
Press while still damp until dry. Trim
fringe evenly to 2".
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3x
3
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4
Originally published in Handwoven®, November/December 1991, pp. 48, 87–88
DOUBLE PUCKER SCARF
GISELA EVITT
PROJECT NOTES
The delicious pucker in this scarf comes from the difference
in elasticity and shrinkage between wool and cotton, which
alternate pair by pair in both warp and weft. A hot-water
wash shrinks the wool, causing the cotton to pucker in both
width and length.
FABRIC DESCRIPTION
Plain weave.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
One scarf 73⁄4" x 55", including a 1⁄2" hem on each end.
WARP and WEFT
20/2 pearl cotton at 8,400 yd/lb: 650 yd white. 20/2
worsted wool at 5,600 yd/lb: 590 yd white, 50 yd blue
(blue is used in the warp only). Note that the blue warp
stripes on each side are different in width. If you would
like them to be the same width, you can wind the two blue
wool stripe sections 4x each (instead of 3x and 5x as
shown in the warp color order), placing 8 ends blue on
each edge.
WARP LENGTH
23⁄4 yd (allows 4" for take-up and 29" for loom waste).
P.P.I. 26.
TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE
16% in width, 20% in length.
WARPING and WEAVING
Wind a warp of 276 ends 23⁄4 yd long following the warp
color order. Thread two or four shafts for plain weave. Alternate 2 picks white wool with 2 picks white cotton in
plain weave for about 66". (Do not cut the weft yarns between pairs and start the two shuttles from opposite sides.)
FINISHING
Remove the scarf from the loom (you can tie loose overhand knots in the fringe to prevent raveling during washing). Wash the scarf gently by hand in hot water with a
small amount of liquid detergent. Rinse thoroughly, and lay
flat to dry. Do not press. Trim and turn under each end 1⁄2"
twice and sew hems by hand.
YARN SOURCES
20/2 pearl cotton and JaggerSpun 20/2 Maine Line
wool are available from most weaving retailers.
DRAFT
WARP COLOR ORDER
NOTIONS White sewing thread for hems.
E.P.I. 30.
3x 5x 54x 3x 3x
4
4
3
16
2
2
blue wool
120
2
2
2
white wool
140 1 2
2
2
2
2
3 white cotton
276
3
2
2
1 1
/
2
2
/
1 1
/
WIDTH IN REED 91⁄5".
/
TOTAL WARP ENDS 276.
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Originally published in Handwoven®, September/October 1995, pp. 26–27
SOFT COTTON SCARF WITH CHENILLE STRIPES
JOAN TORGOW
PROJECT NOTES
When an early autumn chill greets your day, grab a
sweater for warmth and a gaily striped scarf for style and
a little extra protection. A scarf for this transitional season
need not be woolly—cotton provides just the right amount
of insulation. This plain-weave project with a warp sett of
10 ends per inch takes only a few hours to complete. It is
equally appropriate for beginners or for easing back into
weaving after a summer of fun outdoors.
FABRIC DESCRIPTION
Plain weave.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
One scarf 73⁄4" x 53" plus 4" fringe on each end.
WARP and WEFT
4-ply cotton (Peaches & Cream) at 840 yd/lb: 350 yd
Dusky Blue for warp and weft. Cotton chenille at 900
yd/lb: 50 yd Moss #CC047 and 25 yd Pumpkin
#CC021 for warp.
YARN SOURCES
Cotton Chenille is from Camilla Valley Farm Weaver’s
Supply and Peaches & Cream is from Cotton Clouds.
P.P.I. 10.
TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE
18% in width, 17% in length.
WARPING and WEAVING
Wind a warp of 96 ends 21⁄2 yd long and thread two or
four shafts for plain weave. Sley the last 2 ends on each
side in the same dent for stronger selvedges. Allowing
about 5" for fringe, weave the scarf in plain weave with
the Dusky Blue weft for 60". It is difficult to hide weft joins
with this 4-ply cotton weft. Taper the old and new ends of
yarn by unplying and snipping off the plies at 1" intervals
before overlapping them. Twist the splice with moistened
fingers to smooth.
FINISHING
Remove the scarf from the loom and secure the fringe in
groups of 3 ends by tying an overhand knot with 1 end
around the other 2. Before trimming the fringe, wash the
scarf by hand in warm water with mild detergent, roll in
a towel to squeeze out the water, and lay flat to dry. While
the scarf is drying, occasionally shake it and gently pull
each end to fluff the chenille and smooth the surface. Trim
the fringe to 4".
E.P.I. 10.
WIDTH IN REED 92⁄5".
WARP COLOR ORDER
DRAFT
4
10x
TOTAL WARP ENDS
96 ends following the warp color order.
4
3
1
10
Pumpkin chenille
20
1
1
Moss chenille
6
6
66
Dusky Blue cotton
96
3
2
2
1 1
/
2
2
/
1 1
/
/
WARP LENGTH
21⁄2 yd (allows 3" for take-up, 27" for loom waste; loom
waste includes fringe).
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7
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
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8
Originally published in Handwoven®, January/February, 1997, pp. 46, 75
SCARF OF THE NIGHT SKIES
K AT H Y B R I G H T
PROJECT NOTES
Weave a fabric in the silken blues and violets of the night
sky. Add starlike glass beads to the weft and you’ll end up
with this sparkling scarf to dress up an outfit for evening
wear. The space-dyed version of the wool/silk yarn used
in this scarf is no longer available, but you can dye your
own or randomly space commercial shades of purple and
blue in the warp for a very similar look.
FABRIC DESCRIPTION
Plain weave.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
One scarf 83⁄4" x 62" plus 4" fringe on each end.
WARP and WEFT
18/2 wool/silk (50% wool/50% silk) at 5,040 yd/lb:
300 yd Fuchsia, 150 yd Royal, and 150 yd Iris for warp;
316 yd Admiral for weft.
YARN SOURCES
18/2 Zephyr wool/silk by JaggerSpun is available from
most weaving retailers.
NOTIONS
About 150 glass beads (these are about 1⁄8"). The holes
should be just large enough to allow the yarn to slide through
without abrasion. Materials other than glass can be used,
but avoid plastic, which might melt during pressing.
E.P.I. 20.
WIDTH IN REED 10".
TOTAL WARP ENDS 200.
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
WARP LENGTH
3 yd, (allows 3" for take-up and
36" for loom waste; loom waste
includes fringe).
DRAFT
4
4
3
3
2
2
1 1
/
2
P.P.I. 15.
2
/
1 1
/
/
TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE
13% in width, 14% in length.
WARPING and WEAVING
Wind separate warp chains of 100 ends Fuchsia and 50
ends each of Royal and Iris. Centering for a 10" weaving
width, sley the Fuchsia ends randomly in a 10-dent reed:
sometimes 1/dent, occasionally 2/dent, occasionally
0/dent. Then sley the Royal ends 1/dent randomly in
empty dents or in dents with 1 end Fuchsia. Finally, sley
the Iris ends 1/dent in all dents containing only 1 end of
the other colors. Thread two or four shafts for plain weave.
Wind the weft onto bobbins and then string beads onto
the end of the weft yarn (plan 2–3 beads for each inch of
warp length). Leave 6" unwoven at the beginning and end
of the warp for fringe and weave the scarf for about 69",
sliding the beads into the cloth where desired.
FINISHING
Make a plied fringe by tightly twisting clockwise 2 separate groups of 7 or 8 ends each. Bring the groups together,
let them untwist counterclockwise, and secure with an overhand knot 31⁄2" from the edge of the cloth.
Machine wash the scarf in warm water on a gentle
cycle with a mild detergent. Hang to dry. Steam press
while still slightly damp, placing thick bath towels beneath
and on top of the scarf to protect the beads. Use care not
to nudge the beads as you iron. Trim the fringe evenly to
about 4" long.
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Originally published in Handwoven®, November/December 1996, pp. 38, 74–75
SOFT AND LIGHT SCARF
HELEN BOBISUD
PROJECT NOTES
The different shrinkages of smooth silk and fuzzy wool turn
this loosely woven scarf into a visual delight. It makes a very
fun adornment, but take heed—it is an earring catcher!
FABRIC DESCRIPTION
Plain weave and 2/2 twill.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
One scarf 4" x 53" plus 1" fringe on the ends and sides.
WARP and WEFT
20/2 spun silk at 5,000 yd/lb: 298 yd natural for warp
and weft. Rayon floss at 2,200 yd/lb: 175 yd natural
(#7650) for warp and weft (at the ends of the scarf only).
18/2 worsted wool at 5,040 yd/lb (used tripled): 80
total yd white for weft.
YARN SOURCES
20/2 spun silk is available from Treenway Silks, Susi rayon
floss from Webs, 18/2 JaggerSpun Superfine Merino from
most weaving retailers.
E.P.I. 24 for silk, 12 for rayon.
WIDTH IN REED 61⁄3".
TOTAL WARP ENDS 92 (32 silk, 60 rayon).
shafts following the draft. Leave 6" unwoven and begin
and end the scarf with 1" of plain weave in rayon. Weave
the scarf following the draft for 59". Begin each wool weft
section from the left side and use 3 strands of wool as one
throughout. Cut all weft tails even with the selvedges.
FINISHING
Cut the scarf from the loom allowing 6" unwoven warp at
each end. Tie an overhand knot at the ends of each group
of 4 warp threads. Place the scarf in very hot water with
Orvus Paste. Ball up and squeeze the scarf repeatedly for
several minutes until wool weft stripes become quite fuzzy
and are about 4" wide. Rinse well; hang over a padded
bar until dry. Remove the rayon weft threads at each end
without disturbing knots in fringe. Tie new overhand knots
close to the wool weft with each group of 4 silk warp
threads. Cut the knots at the ends of the rayon warp threads
and pull out all rayon warp threads one by one.
The next finishing step completes the fulling. Repeat the
washing and squeezing process as above. When the wool
stripes are about 31⁄4" wide, rinse well, adding vinegar to
the next to last rinse. Lay flat or hang to dry.
Add 2 fringes in each space between silk warp stripes:
For each fringe, run a needle with 2 strands of silk through
the wool weft about 1⁄8" from the edge. Bring these 4 ends
together and secure with an overhead knot next to the wool
edge. Trim all warp fringe evenly to 1".
WARP LENGTH
23⁄4 yd (allows 3" for take-up and 35" for loom waste; loom
waste includes 12" temporary fringe used for finishing).
3x
DRAFT
4x
2x
R
S
R
R
R
S
R
3x
R
S
4 4 4
3 3
2
2 2
R 1
1
1
3
R
S
plain weave
TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE
37% in width (silk), 53% in width (wool), 15% in length.
WARPING and WEAVING
Wind a warp of 92 ends 23⁄4 yd long and thread four
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
R
R
W
W
repeat
P.P.I. 20 silk, 16 tripled wool.
WARP
COLOR
ORDER
R = rayon
S = silk
W = wool (tripled)
= in one dent
W
W
S
9x
S
S
S
4x
W
32
8
silk
60 12 12 rayon
92
W
W
W
plain weave
R
R
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12
Originally published in Handwoven®, November/December 1996, pp. 69, 85
HERRINGBONE TWILL SCARF
L O U E T TA H E I N D L K A M B I C
PROJECT NOTES
Silk yarn and twill combine to make this lightweight, softly
draping scarf. The herringbone draft is Herringbone Plaid
from Marguerite Davison’s A Handweaver’s Pattern Book
(page 26, treadlings I and II). The scarf can be casual or
formal, depending on the outfit it accessorizes.
FABRIC DESCRIPTION
Herringbone twill.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
One scarf 83⁄4" x 66" plus 11⁄2" fringe on each end.
WARP and WEFT
2-ply tussah silk at 3,750 yd/lb: 708 yd natural for warp.
20/2 silk at 4,900 yd/lb: Burgundy, 465 yd for weft.
YARN SOURCES
2-ply tussah silk (item #10) is available from The Silk
Tree, 20/2 silk from Webs. (The weft yarn in this scarf
is handdyed 12/2 silk noil, Soie Rustique, at 5,040
yd/lb from Silk City.)
P.P.I. 22.
TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE
11% in width, 13% in length.
WARPING and WEAVING
Wind a warp of 236 ends 3 yd long. Thread four shafts
following the draft. Allowing 2" for fringe at each end,
weave the scarf following the treadling in this order: 21⁄2"
herringbone, 41⁄2" herringbone plaid, 56" herringbone,
41⁄2" herringbone plaid, and 21⁄2" herringbone.
FINISHING
Tie every other group of 4 warp ends in an overhand knot
snugly against the outside weft row on each end of the
scarf (skipping groups of 4 will reduce the bulk created
by the knots). Trim fringe evenly to 11⁄2". Wash the scarf
by hand in warm water with a mild detergent. Rinse, airdry, and steam press.
DRAFT
11x
4x
4
4
3
3
2
1
4
3
2
E.P.L 24.
4x
4
1
2
4
3 3
2 2
1 1 1
/
/
WIDTH IN REED 9 ⁄6".
5
herringbone
/
/
/
/
/
TOTAL WARP ENDS 236.
/
/
/
/
/
WARP LENGTH
3 yd (allows 5" take-up and 33" loom waste; loom waste
includes fringe).
herringbone
plaid
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
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14
Originally published in Handwoven®, March/April 1992, pp. 40–41, 81–82
SILK SCARVES IN HUCK AND BRONSON LACE
V I C K I TA R D Y ( H U C K ) A N D K AT H Y B R I G H T ( B R O N S O N )
6x
HUCKLACE
SCARVES
7
6
5
4
3
2
2
6x 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
3x
8
8
8
7
7
6
2
5
5
4
2
1
2
2
1
2
1
1
2
2
1
2
1
1
2
2
1
2
1
1
2
5
4
4
3
1
6
5
5
4
2
7
6
6
3
1
8
7
7
6
2
1
2
1
1
3
3
2
1
2
2
1
4
3
2 2
1
2
1
2
1
1
plain
weave
/
/
BRONSON-LACE
SCARVES
B lace
3
A corded plain weave
3
2
1
3
2
1
2
1
1
3
3
3 3 3
3
3
/
3
3
3
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1 1 1
1
1
3
2 2
1 1 1
/
/
/
/
Two scarves, each 73⁄4" x 65" plus 21⁄4"
fringe on each end.
Bronson lace and corded plain weave.
WARP and WEFT
2-ply silk at 3,000 yd/lb: 1,750 yd
natural.
YARN SOURCES
Cascade Petite Silk is from Henry’s Attic.
E.P.I. 20. WIDTH IN REED 9".
TOTAL WARP ENDS 179.
5 yd (allows 6" take-up and 32" loom
waste; loom waste includes fringe).
P.P.I. 20.
TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE
14% in width, 9% in length.
WEAVING
Two scarves, 8" x 65" (scarf c) and 9" x
65" (scarf d) with 4" fringe on each end.
2x
/
/
/
/
2x
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
WARP and WEFT
2-ply tussah silk at 3,750 yd/lb, 1,500
yd natural (warp for both scarves, weft
for scarf d). 20/2 spun silk at 5,000
yd/lb, 440 yd white (weft for scarf c).
/
/
/
/
/
/
2x
/
/
/
Thread
(A, B) 6x;
end with
A 1x.
2x
/
/
2x
/
/
/
2x
/
/
/
2x
/
/
/
2x
/
YARN SOURCES
Tussah silk (item10) is from The Silk Tree,
20/2 spun silk from Treenway Silks.
E.P.I. 24.
WIDTH IN REED 91⁄2".
TOTAL WARP ENDS 226.
2x
2x
/
/
/
/
/
Although they
use eight shafts,
Vicki Tardy’s
huck-lace scarves
are part of the
original article,
so they are
included here.
2x
/
/
/
2x
/
/
/
2x
/
/
/
/
2x
/
WARP LENGTH
5 yd (allows 6" take-up and 30" loom
waste; loom waste includes fringe).
Begin and end each scarf with 6 picks
plain weave; hemstitch including 2 picks
and 5 ends per stitch. Weave each
scarf following the draft for 68". Allow
6" between scarves for fringe.
P.P.I. 22 for scarf c,18 for scarf d.
FINISHING
WEAVING
Cut scarves apart. Trim fringe. Wash
by hand in warm water with liquid de-
Begin and end each scarf with 2 picks
of plain weave and hemstitch including
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
/
/
/
/
scarf b
WARP LENGTH
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
/
/
repeat
SCARVES C and D
scarf d
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
scarf c
Huck lace with plain-weave borders.
2x
/
/
scarf a
/
SCARVES A and B
2x
/
/
tergent; add 2 tsp white vinegar to the
final rinse. Line dry and steam press.
2x
/
/
TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE
5% in width, 9% in length for scarf c;
16% in width, 9% in length for scarf d.
4 ends and 2 picks in each stitch.
Weave each scarf following the draft
for 68" and allow 8" between scarves
for fringe.
FINISHING
Cut scarves apart. Trim fringe. Machine
wash, gentle cycle, warm water. Spin
out excess moisture very briefly. Line
dry or dry flat; steam press.
handwovenmagazine.com
15
Scarf b: huck lace,
straight treadling
of blocks
Scarf a: huck lace,
point treadling of
blocks
Scarf d: Bronson
lace with tussah
warp and weft
Scarf c: Bronson
lace with tussah
warp and white
spun-silk weft
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
handwovenmagazine.com
16
Originally published in Handwoven®, November/December 1996, pp. 40, 76–77
MAGICAL ACCENT SCARF
LINDA FLOTOW
PROJECT NOTES
Very quick to weave and so versatile an accessory, this plainweave scarf has a special gauzy, springy texture created
by the open weave and the uneven shrinkage of different
fibers. Use it as a scarf, a belt, or tie it around a sun hat!
FABRIC DESCRIPTION
Plain weave.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
One scarf 61⁄2"x 61" plus 41⁄2" fringe on each end.
WARP and WEFT
75% rayon/25% cotton novelty (Pazzaz) at 900 yd/lb:
266 yd Bandana or Burgundy (variegated).
YARN SOURCES
Pazazz is from Cotton Clouds. Twilight, the colorway used
for this scarf, is no longer available, but Bandana and
Burgundy are both very similar.
E.P.I. 5.
WIDTH IN REED 10".
WARPING and WEAVING
Wind a warp of 50 ends 3 yd long and thread two or
four shafts for plain weave. Leaving 6" unwoven at the beginning and end for fringe, begin weaving the scarf by
beating 8 picks closely together. Then weave 74". Gently nudge the weft in place for 9 picks (at about 4 ppi) and
then beat 3 picks together firmly; repeat throughout. Beat
the final 8 picks firmly as at the beginning. The tightly compressed bands help stabilize this very loose fabric. To
change bobbins, weave in the last 2 or 3 picks from the
old bobbin with a fairly hard beat. Using the thin part of
the yarn (not the slub), tie together the old and new strands
and weave in tails. Continue weaving, beating in the first
2 or 3 picks from the new bobbin rather tightly.
FINISHING
When the scarf comes off the loom, it looks like netting;
the finishing brings out the texture. Take groups of 5 warp
threads, switching the fifth end from the first group and the
first end of the next group throughout (this helps stabilize
the fabric at the ends) and tie with an overhand knot snug
against the edge. Soak the scarf in warm water for 20
minutes, squeeze out the water, and tumble dry. The warp
ends slide around a bit while in the dryer, but it’s easy to
draw them back in place by grasping the scarf with both
hands and gently pulling. Trim fringe to 4".
TOTAL WARP ENDS 50.
WARP LENGTH
3 yd (allows 2" for take-up and 32" for loom waste; loom
waste includes fringe).
4
DRAFT
4
3
3
2
2
1 1
/
2
2
/
1 1
/
/
P.P.I. 5.
TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 35% in width, 23% in length.
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
handwovenmagazine.com
17
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
handwovenmagazine.com
18
Originally published in Handwoven®, September/October 1987, p. 54; instruction supplement, p.10
LIQUID SHIMMER SCARF
LINDA LIGON
PROJECT NOTES
Three colors close in hue and value give this shadow-weave
scarf a subtle shimmer. The treadling repeats increase and
decrease in number to create an undulating design. The
rayon used for this scarf is no longer available. Tencel is
recommended as an ideal substitute.
DRAFT
3x
1 2 3 4
4
4
3
3
2 2
1
1
←3x cont'd
3x
3x
3x
FABRIC DESCRIPTION
Shadow weave.
3x
←3x cont'd
3x
2x
2x
←3x cont'd
2x
repeat
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
One scarf 101⁄4" x 541⁄2" plus 10" fringe on each end.
1x
WARP and WEFT
10/2 Tencel at 4,200 yd/lb, item #132: 588 yd jade
green (color #14), 338 yd smoky turquoise (color #16),
and 240 yd sky blue (color #17).
2x
smoky turquoise (#16)
jade green (#15)
sky blue (#17)
E.P.I. 24.
WIDTH IN REED 111⁄4".
TOTAL WARP ENDS 270.
WARP LENGTH
21⁄2 yd (allows 3" for take-up, 27" for loom waste; loom
waste includes fringe).
P.P.I. 24.
TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 9% in width, 13% in length.
WARPING and WEAVING
Wind a warp of 270 ends 21⁄2 yd long alternating 1 end
jade green with 1 end smoky turquoise and thread the shafts
following the draft. Allowing 10" for fringe including the
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
3x
2x
From 1000+ Patterns in 4, 6 and 8 Harness
Shadow Weave by Marian Powell (pages 90, 139)
YARN SOURCES
10/2 Tencel is available from Halcyon Yarn in mini
cones of 600 yd each or 1 lb cones.
2x
3x
3x
3x
length used to tie on, begin the scarf with 6 picks sky blue
Tencel, alternating treadles 3 and 4. Then weave the scarf
for 60" using two shuttles following the draft. After the first
1", hemstitch with sky blue Tencel including 4 ends and the
first 6 picks in each stitch. End the scarf with 6 picks jade
green (treadles 3 and 4) and hemstitch with jade green.
FINISHING
Cut the scarf from the loom allowing 10" for fringe. Make
a plied fringe: Twist two pairs of adjacent warp threads clockwise until they start to kink, tie them together at the ends with
an overhand knot, and then release them, letting them ply
counterclockwise. Trim fringe ends evenly.
Wash the scarf by hand in hot soapy water; rinse well.
Roll in a towel to absorb excess moisture. Iron with a hot
iron (silk setting) vigorously until dry. (I ironed the original
rayon scarf on top of my dryer very vigorously and continuously to produce a shimmering surface. To try this with
Tencel, weave a small sample and practice with it first.)
handwovenmagazine.com
19
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
handwovenmagazine.com
20
Originally published in Handwoven®, March/April 1998, pp. 54, 83–84
TIP OF THE TWILL SCARVES
EMMY SPENCER
PROJECT NOTES
I like to design twills by first arranging stripes of color in
the warp. I then make up the draft as I thread the loom,
changing twill direction depending on color changes.
WIDTH IN REED
Red/blue scarf: 91⁄4". Mauve/blue scarf: 91⁄2".
TOTAL WARP ENDS
Red/blue scarf: 222. Mauve/blue scarf: 228.
FABRIC DESCRIPTION 2/2 twill.
WARP LENGTH
23⁄4 yd (allows 2" take-up and 29" loom waste; loom waste
includes fringe).
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
Red/blue scarf: 81⁄4" x 60" plus 4" fringe on each end.
Mauve/blue scarf: 81⁄2" x 60" plus 4" fringe on each end
P.P.I. 24. TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE 11% in width,
15% in length.
WARP and WEFT
18/2 wool/silk (50% wool/50% silk) at 5,040 yd/lb.
Red/blue scarf: 66 yd Indigo, 77 yd Real Red, 121 yd
Mahogany, 143 yd Cinnabar, and 149 yd Ruby for warp;
516 yd Admiral for warp and weft.
Mauve/blue scarf: 77 yd Curry and 275 yd Blueberry
for warp; 749 yd Elderberry for warp and weft.
WEAVING
Allowing 8" unwoven warp at each end for fringe. Weave
the scarf following the draft for 68".
FINISHING
Make a plied fringe by twisting clockwise two separate
groups of 3 ends. Put the groups together, let them untwist
counterclockwise, and secure them with an overhand knot
31⁄2" from the cloth. Trim the plied fringe to 4". Wash the
finished scarf by hand in warm water and mild detergent.
Rinse thoroughly and hang to dry.
YARN SOURCES
Zephyr wool/silk by JaggerSpun is available from most
weaving retailers.
E.P.I. 24.
RED/BLUE WARP COLOR ORDER AND DRAFT
MAUVE/BLUE WARP COLOR ORDER AND DRAFT
L = Indigo (dark blue)
R = Real Red (red)
B = Admiral (blue)
M = Mahogany (red-purple)
C = Cinnabar (brick red)
D = Ruby (dark red)
24 10 2
2 10
28
2
2
2 2
2
2
2 2
2
2
2 2
2
2
20
8
2
2
8
44
20 2
2 20
52
52
2 52
54
100
4 7 78 7 4
M = Elderberry (mauve)
28 6 2 1 1 2 4 2 1 1 2 6 G = Curry (gold)
B = Blueberry (blue)
100 4 7 78 7 4
228
222
13x
C
M
C
L
← cont d
L
M
R
R
M
M
B
B
B
5x
R
B
B
L
L
L
R
R
R
B
R
M
M
D
2x
R
L
R
D
R
R
L
D
D
D
2x
L
← cont d
R
C
R
M
13x
R
R
R
R
D
R
C
R
L
R
R
B
B
M
L
L
B
R
M
L
L
L
B
R
R
M
L
L
R
R
B
B
R
M
R
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
M
3x
3x
2x
2x
5x
4 4
3 3
2 2
1
1
B
B
B
B
3x
M
M
G
M
M
G
M
4 4
3 3
G 2 2
G
G
M
M
M
M
M
M
1
1
M
←cont d
M
M
G
M
G
B
B
B
M
M
G
G
M
M
B
B
B
M
B
M
G
M
M
B
B
G
G
M
B
M
M
G
M
B
G
G
M
M
3x
M
3x
3x
←cont d
M
G
G
B
B
B
B
B
M
G
B
G
B
B
B
B
M
G
B
G
B
B
G
B
B
M
G
G
B
B
B
B
B
B
M
M
M
M
M
G
M
G
M
M
G
M
M
G
handwovenmagazine.com
3x
3x
21
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
handwovenmagazine.com
22
Originally published in Handwoven®, November/December 1996, pp. 68, 85
MAN’S SCARF IN SILK AND COTTON
JANICE JONES
PROJECT NOTES
This soft, conservative scarf designed for men’s wear combines the luxury of silk and the economy of cotton. The unusual twill draft was designed by Gloria Martin during her
exploration of 4-shaft designs that appear to be woven on
many more shafts.
TOTAL WARP ENDS 153.
WARP LENGTH
21⁄2 yd (allows 3" take-up and 33" loom waste; loom waste
includes fringe).
P.P.I. 13.
FABRIC DESCRIPTION
Plaited twill.
TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE
13% in width, 11% in length.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
One scarf 51⁄2" x 51" plus 21⁄2" fringe on each end.
WARPING and WEAVING
Wind a warp of 153 ends 21⁄2 yd long. Thread four shafts
following the draft (note that there is a floating selvedge
on each side). Check carefully as you thread (count out
the heddles before threading each 5x repeat: 7 for shafts
1, 3, 4; 6 for shaft 2). Allowing 3" for fringe, weave the
scarf following the draft for 54". Hemstitch both ends including 4 ends and 2 picks in each stitch. For an additional design element, wrap the group of 4 ends twice before moving to the next stitch.
WARP and WEFT
5/2 pearl cotton at 2,100 yd/lb: 383 yd black for warp.
12/2 spun silk at 2,970 yd/lb, 140 yd rust (color #JY33)
for weft.
YARN SOURCES
5/2 pearl cotton is available from most weaving retailers; 12/2 spun silk is from Treenway Silks.
NOTIONS Tapestry needle.
FINISHING
Remove the scarf from the loom, allowing 3" for fringe.
Machine wash in warm water with a mild detergent using
a short gentle cycle; rinse by hand. When the scarf is almost dry, press with a hot iron. Trim fringe evenly on each
end to 21⁄2".
E.P.L 25 (2-3 in a 10-dent reed).
WIDTH IN REED 61⁄3".
5x
DRAFT
4
4
3
3
2
4
1
4
3
4
3
2
2
1
4
3
1
4
3
2
3
2
1
1
1
4
4
3
2
3
2
1
4
1
4
3
4 4
3
2
2
1
3
2
1
2
1
1
4
3 3
2 2
1 1
/
= floating selvedges
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
handwovenmagazine.com
23
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
handwovenmagazine.com
24
Originally published in Handwoven®, November/December 1996, pp. 39, 75–76
SCARVES WITH SPUN SHIMMER
GISELA EVITT
PROJECT NOTES
The shimmering color effect in these scarves is created by
plying together for the weft two or more fine, contrastingcolor commercial yarns using a spinning wheel. The effect
depends on the degree of twist—sample, sample, sample!
All silk yarns are from Treenway Silks; pearl cottons (UKI
and others) are available from most weaving retailers.
FABRIC DESCRIPTION Plain weave.
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
Red scarf: 9" x 48" plus 41⁄2" fringe on each end.
Narrow blue scarf: 71⁄2" x 66" plus 51⁄2" fringe on each end.
Wide blue scarf: 11" x 76", plus 51⁄2" fringe on each end.
WARP and WEFT
Red scarf: Warp: 20/2 pearl cotton at 8,400 yd/lb,
720 yd deep red. Weft: reeled silk, 550 yd bright red; 2ply spun silk, 550 yd natural.170 yd deep red 20/2 pearl
cotton is used for added fringe.
Narrow blue scarf: Warp: 20/2 pearl cotton, 840 yd
medium blue. Weft: 2-ply spun silk, 550 yd each navy,
royal blue, and pale blue-gray. 45 yd pale-blue gray is
used for added fringe.
Wide blue scarf: 20/2 pearl cotton: 900 yd medium
blue (UKI Turk #22) for warp; 800 yd each Turk #22, royal
blue (UKI Nassau #23), and white for weft. 45 yd each
medium blue and royal blue are used for added fringe.
E.P.I.
Red scarf: 20. Narrow blue scarf: 30. Wide blue scarf: 20.
WIDTH IN REED
Red scarf: 12". Narrow blue scarf: 8". Wide blue scarf:
12".
TOTAL WARP ENDS for all three scarves: 240.
Narrow scarf: 31⁄2 yd (allows 5" take-up, 12" sampling,
and 39" loom waste; loom waste includes fringe).
Wide blue scarf: 33⁄4 yd (allows 6" take-up, 12" sampling,
and 37" loom waste; loom waste includes fringe).
P.P.I.
Red scarf: 22. Narrow blue scarf: 25. Wide blue scarf: 22.
TAKE-UP and SHRINKAGE
Red scarf: 25% in width, 17% in length.
Narrow blue scarf: 7% in width, 13% in length.
Wide blue scarf: 9% in width and 13% in length.
WEFT PREPARATION and WEAVING
Red scarf: Ply 2 wefts together in the same direction.
Narrow blue scarf: Ply 3 wefts together, same direction.
Wide blue scarf: Ply 3 wefts together but reverse the
spinning direction on alternate bobbins.
Allowing 8" for fringe, weave the red scarf for 53", the
narrow blue scarf for 70", and the wide blue scarf for 80".
Sample first to find the right twist for the weft.
FINISHING
Red scarf: At the center of every 5 warp ends, add five
12" lengths deep red about 2 weft rows from the edge.
Twist the two groups of 7 and 8 ends clockwise; let them
twist together counterclockwise; secure with an overhand
knot.
Narrow blue scarf: Add one 12" pale blue-gray length to
every 4 warp threads and ply the fringe.
Wide blue scarf: Add one 12" length medium blue and
royal blue to every 4 warp threads; knot without plying.
Wash all scarves by hand in warm water with a small
amount of Orvus Paste. Rinse well; lay flat to dry. Press.
ADDING FRINGE
DRAFT
4
4
3
WARP LENGTH
Red scarf: 3 yd (allows 4" take-up, 12" sampling, and
39" loom waste; loom waste includes fringe).
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
3
2
2
1 1
/
2
2
/
1 1
/
/
handwovenmagazine.com
25
© Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
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26