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REQUIREMENTS
(based on stretch fabric with a width of 145cm/57” & min. 25% stretch across grain)
VIEW C (“Spy Top” – cowl neck, sleeve cuffs &
hem cuffs)
FOR SIZES 0 (6 months), 1, 2 & 3
55cm (21”) fabric a – main shirt & sleeves
50cm (19”) fabric b – contrast cowl neck,
sleeve cuffs & hem cuffs
FOR SIZES 4 & 5
70cm (27”) fabric a – main shirt & sleeves
50cm (19”) fabric b – contrast cowl neck,
sleeve cuffs & hem cuffs
VIEW C
YOU WILL ALSO NEED:
15cm x 5cm (6” x 2”) piece of woven (non-stretch) fabric
(or store-bought stabiliser)
Visit our website: www.makeitperfect.com.au to view our entire range of funky patterns!
© 2014. Toni Coward
Please do not reproduce any part of this pattern in any way, or for any purpose. It is
intended for private use only.
(sizes 6 months – 5 years)
Basic Tees: Spy Top variation is a chic addition to your Basic Tees pattern.
This variation is a free download pattern to add to your original Basic Tees pattern
featuring a cowl-neck for warmth and style, long skinny sleeve cuffs and a fitted hem
cuff. My daughter loves her “Spy Tops” – nicknamed because she pulls the cowl up
over her face and declares herself a spy! We hope you enjoy this variation to the
Basic Tees pattern as much as we do!
little basic tees: spy top
MPF03 © 2014.
FIND US HERE:
Website: www.makeitperfect.com.au
Blog: www.tonicoward.blogspot.com
Email: toni@makeitperfect.com.au
Facebook: www.facebook.com/makeitperfectsewingpatterns
Flickr: www.flickr.com/groups/makeitperfect
modern, fresh and funky sewing patterns
little basic tees: spy top
Basic Tees: Spy Top variation is a chic addition to your Basic Tees pattern.
This variation is a free download pattern to add to your original Basic Tees
pattern featuring a cowl-neck for warmth and style, long skinny sleeve cuffs
and a fitted hem cuff. My daughter loves her “Spy Tops” – nicknamed
because she pulls the cowl up over her face and declares herself a spy! We
hope you enjoy this variation to the Basic Tees pattern as much as we do
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THINGS TO NOTE BEFORE SEWING WITH STRETCH FABRIC:
1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance included unless otherwise stated.
Trace pattern pieces onto freezer paper or tracing paper to use as
templates.
Wash, dry and iron all fabric before commencing. Most stretch fabrics
shrink to some degree. Wash and dry fabric in the same manner you
intend to use for the finished garment. (Fabric requirements given in
this pattern allow for fabric shrinkage.)
For professional results, press all seams after sewing.
Pattern pieces should be cut in one direction and be placed with the
greatest amount of stretch going around the body. The grainline on
the pattern pieces should run parallel with the selvedge edge on the
fabric.
Make sure that you use a ballpoint stretch needle on your sewing
machine. This allows the tip of the needle to slip around the loops that
make up the stretch fabric instead of tearing through them and
causing runs in your garment.
Use a polyester thread for sewing stretch fabrics as it is stronger and
gives your seams greater elasticity.
When sewing stretch fabrics, be careful not to stretch the fabric as it is
feeding through the sewing machine or you will end up with an
uneven wavy edge. Sew slowly and take your time until you get the
hang of it.
If stretch fabrics are sewn with a regular straight sewing machine
stitch, it is highly likely that stitches will “pop” over time as a straight
stitch doesn’t allow enough movement for the fabric to stretch.
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UNLESS OTHERWISE INSTRUCTED, SEW SEAMS USING ONE OF THE
FOLLOWING METHODS:
An overlocker – refer to your manual for the correct setting for the
fabric you are using.
A medium length zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine.
If you have your sewing machine manual handy, take a look
inside…you will probably find a wealth of information about using it to
sew stretch fabrics and can use it to the best of it’s capacity.
a twin needle is particularly useful to sew any seams that will be visible
from the outside of the garment as it gives a more professional finish.
A triple-straight stitch on your sewing machine. I prefer using this for
stitches that you see on the outside of the finished garment e.g. hems,
topstitching.
A stretch tricot stitch on your sewing machine. This is my preferred
stitch for all seams that won’t be seen from the outside of the finished
garment.
Cutting instructions for VIEW C (“Spy Top” – cowl neck, sleeve cuffs &
hem cuffs) – sizes 0, 1, 2 and 3:
1. Lay fabric A on cutting surface with wrong side facing up
and measure 20cm (7 ½”) from the left selvedge edge. Fold
fabric along this mark. Fold fabric in from right selvedge edge
to meet left selvedge edge.
2. Follow Cutting Diagram #1 (on following page) for
placement of pattern templates to cut. Cut girl front, girl back
and boy long-sleeve pieces.
3. Refer to following Extra Cutting Instructions Table for cowl,
sleeve cuff and hem cuff pieces to cut from fabric B.
4. Cut two 6" x 1" shoulder stabiliser strips from woven fabric.
(Alternately, use store-bought stabiliser.)
Sleeve Piece
Folded edge
Back Piece
Cutting Diagram #2
Sleeve Piece
Folded edge
Folded edge
Front Piece
Folded edge
Cutting Diagram #1
Neckline Binding
Back Piece
Front Piece
20cm (7 ½”)
Selvedge
edges
Neckline Binding
21cm (8”)
Cutting instructions for VIEW C (“Spy Top” – cowl neck, sleeve cuffs &
hem cuffs) – sizes 4 and 5:
1. Lay fabric A on cutting surface with wrong side facing up
and measure 21cm (8”) from the left selvedge edge. Fold
fabric along this mark. Fold fabric in from right selvedge edge
to meet left selvedge edge.
2. Follow Cutting Diagram #2 for placement of pattern
templates to cut. Cut girl front, girl back and boy long-sleeve
pieces.
3. Refer to following Extra Cutting Instructions Table for cowl,
sleeve cuff and hem cuff pieces to cut from fabric B.
4. Cut two 6" x 1" shoulder stabiliser strips from woven fabric.
(Alternately, use store-bought stabiliser.)
Selvedge
edges
Extra Cutting Instructions Table:
You will also need to cut (width measurement given first):
SIZE
Size 0
Size 1
Size 2
Size 3
Size 4
Size 5
COWL NECK
(FABRIC B)
one 16 ¼” x 9”
one 16 ½” x 9”
one 16 ½” x 10”
one 16 ¾” x 10”
one 17” x 11”
one 17 ¼” x 11”
SLEEVE CUFF
(FABRIC B)
one 6 ½” x 7 ½”
one 6 ¾” x 7 ½”
one 7 x 7 ½”
one 7 x 7 ½”
one 7 ¼” x 7 ½”
7 ¼” x 7 ½”
HEM CUFF
(FABRIC B)
one 20” x 5”
one 21” x 5”
one 22” x 5”
one 23” x 5”
one 23 ½” x 6”
one 24 ½” x 6”
CONSTRUCTION FOR VIEW C (“Spy Top” – cowl neck, sleeve cuffs & hem
cuff):
STEP 1: Stabilize and sew shoulder seams.
a) Make shoulder stabilizer strip by taking one strip of woven (non-stretch)
fabric and fold in half, lengthways, with right sides facing. Press.
b) Place long raw edge of stabilizer strip in line with one shoulder edge on the
wrong side of the back shirt piece. Pin into place. Baste stabilizer strip into
place using a ¼” (6mm) seam along pinned edge. Trim overhanging edges
at neck and arm hole. Repeat with second stabilizer strip and opposite
shoulder edge.
Shoulder edge
b) Repeat to sew second sleeve to other armhole.
c) Pin front to back of shirt, right sides together at side seam and sleeve seam,
making sure to match underarm seams. Sew together using a ½” (1.2cm)
seam around pinned edge. Repeat with other side of shirt.
Sleeve seam
Folded edge of
stabilizer strip
Wrong side of back
piece
Wrong side of
front of shirt
c) With right sides together, place shoulder seams of front and back shirt
pieces together (making sure to match up armholes) and pin into place.
Shoulder seam
Side seam
d) Take one sleeve cuff piece and fold in half, widthways, with right sides
together. Pin into place down long raw edge and sew together using a ½”
(1.2cm) down pinned edge.
Right side of
cuff piece
Wrong side of front
piece
Wrong side of
cuff piece
d) Sew together using a ½” (1.2cm) seam along pinned edges. Press seams
towards back.
e) Before continuing with sewing, take front and back pieces cut from fabric
A and trim 1” (2.5cm) off the bottom of each piece. Referring to the size you
are sewing on the next page, take sleeve pieces and trim:
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Sizes 0-2: Trim 3” (7.5cm) off the bottom of each piece.
Sizes 3-5: Trim 3 ½” (9cm) off the bottom of each piece.
e) Take bottom, raw edge of the cuff and fold it up towards the top, raw
edge so that right sides are facing out on the inside and outside of the cuff
and raw edges meet. Press.
Wrong side
of cuff
STEP 2:
Attach sleeves and sleeve cuffs.
a) With right sides together, pin sleeve to one armhole of shirt. Sew together
using a ½” (1.2cm) seam around pinned edge.
Right side
of cuff
Shoulder seam
Wrong side of front
of shirt
Right side of fabric
Wrong side of sleeve
Folded edge
f) Divide the cuff into halves by folding the top, raw edge in half so that the
seam is at one folded edge. Place a pin in the other folded edge.
g) Divide the raw edge of one sleeve in half following the instructions in the
previous step.
h) With right sides together, place cuff over the raw edge of the sleeve.
Match up pin marks and seams and make sure that the raw edge of the
sleeve matches up with the raw edge of the cuff. Pin into place. (You will
need to stretch the cuff to fit the raw edge of the sleeve.)
i) Attach cuff to sleeve using a ½” (1.2cm) seam around the pinned edge,
stretching the cuff to fit the raw edge of the sleeve. Make sure that you don’t
stretch the raw edge of the sleeve when sewing.
STEP 3:
Attach hem cuff and cowl.
a) Take hem cuff piece and fold in half, so that short, raw edges meet, with
right sides together. Pin into place down short, raw edge and sew together
using a ½” (1.2cm) down pinned edge.
b) Referring to Step 2, e take bottom, raw edge of the hem cuff and fold it up
towards the top, raw edge so that right sides are facing out on the inside and
outside of the hem cuff and raw edges meet. Press.
c) Divide the hem cuff into quarters. To do this, fold the hem cuff in half so
that the seam is at one folded edge. Place a pin at the other folded edge.
Re-fold the cuff so that the pinned mark and seam meet and mark the two
new folded edges at either side with pins. Your hem cuff is now divided into
quarters.
Quarter marks
Raw edge
g) Follow Steps a-c to make cowl neck piece.
h) Divide the neckline of the shirt into quarters also, starting with the first
quarter mark at the centre back of the shirt.
i) With right sides together, place cowl piece over the raw edge of the shirt
neckline. Match up pin marks and place seam of cowl at the centre back
mark on the shirt. Make sure that the raw edge of the neckline matches up
with the raw edge of the cowl. Pin into place. (You will need to stretch the
neckline slightly to fit the raw edge of the cowl.)
j) Attach cowl to neckline using a ½” (1/2cm) seam around the pinned edge,
stretching the cowl to fit the raw edge of the neckline when sewing.
Right side of
hem cuff
Wrong side of
hem cuff
Side seam
f) Attach cuff to shirt using a ½” (1.2cm) seam around the pinned edge,
stretching the cuff to fit the raw edge of the shirt hem. Make sure that you
don’t stretch the raw edge of the shirt hem when sewing.
Folded edge
d) Divide the bottom, raw edge of the shirt hem into quarters following the
instructions in previous step. The two side seams on the hem of the shirt should
be two of the quarter marks.
e) With right sides together, place hem cuff over the raw edge of the shirt
hem. Match up pin marks and place seam of cuff over one side seam of shirt.
Make sure that the raw edge of the shirt hem matches up with the raw edge
of the cuff. Pin into place. (You will need to stretch the cuff to fit the raw edge
of the shirt hem.)
FIND US HERE:
Website: www.makeitperfect.com.au
Blog: www.tonicoward.blogspot.com
Email: toni@makeitperfect.com.au
Facebook: www.facebook.com/makeitperfectsewingpatterns
Flickr: www.flickr.com/groups/makeitperfect
© 2014. Toni Coward
Please do not reproduce any part of this pattern in any way, or for any
purpose. Do not email copies of this pattern to other people, I rely on your
honesty to keep my business running. This pattern is intended for private use
only. If you would like to sew and sell items from Make It Perfect patterns,
please contact us for further information.