Young Nails Australia Acrylic Manual
2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Young Nails Australia Acrylic Manual Page 1 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Health, Safety and Precautions Straight up, we love you guys. That’s why we have this manual and why we begin with the most important topic: your health and safety. Young Nails products have been created and manufactured with your career in mind and we’ve come up with tools, products and techniques that will keep you happy, healthy and successful for years to come. A basic understanding of health and safety in a salon is absolutely crucial in protecting you, your clients and your business. All professional nail care technicians must become extremely well acquainted with each of the following subjects: • Sanitation • Disinfection • Sterilization • Ventilation • Carpal Tunnel Syndrome Sanitation Cleanliness is next to Godliness. That’s a cliché for a reason. Sanitation reduces (but doesn’t eliminate) the amount of pathogens on surface areas. Your tools can be sanitized by cleaning them well with soap and water. Basic sanitation involves the washing of hands with soap and water or with no-rinse, anti-bacterial hand antiseptics like Cleanse. Important Note: Sanitation does not kill harmful bacteria. Don’t confuse sanitation with disinfection—they’re two different things, girl. Step-by-Step Sanitation Procedure 1. Before each client, wash your hands with anti-bacterial soap and water for the length of time it takes you to sing “Happy Birthday.” It takes this long for a thorough cleansing. As already stated, Cleanse is also a good way of sanitizing you and your clients’ hands before a salon service. 2. Use disposable materials such as paper towels and hand wipes. Dispose of them in an airtight trash can with a lid. 3. After each client, wash your hands with anti-bacterial soap and water for at least 15 seconds. Be sure that you sanitize your work station by spraying the surfaces thoroughly and wiping them down with a disposable paper towel. 4. All your instruments must be sanitized before you disinfect them. 5. Wash all towels and linens at a minimum of 72ºC. Add bleach to the wash as an added precaution. Page 2 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Disinfection Disinfection eliminates most pathogenic bacteria. In other words, proper disinfection gets rid of the stuff that causes disease. You absolutely must use proper disinfectants, such as a spray disinfectant or a disinfectant soak, to completely disinfect your work surfaces and tools. When you’re looking at disinfectant products for your station, be sure to read the label carefully and choose a product that is a Germicide, Pseudomonacide, Fungicide or Virucide. Proper Disinfection Procedure Completely submerge your implements in an approved disinfectant for a minimum of 10 minutes to effectively kill most pathogenic bacteria. Your local or state board may have specific regulations, so make sure that you follow those procedures, as well. Sterilization Sterilization goes beyond sanitation and disinfection and is the complete elimination, destruction and annihilation of all forms of microbial life. It sounds gruesome but it’s a good thing. It can be accomplished with physical or chemical procedure such as the four mentioned below. Sterilization Procedures 1. 2. 3. 4. Steam under pressure Autoclave Dry Heat Plasma sterilizing agents You must sanitize, disinfect and sterilize your tools and in that order; doing just two out of three is not cool, nor is it safe. It is very important to understand these steps in order to have a safe working environment for you and your clients. For example, plunging your soiled implements into the disinfectant before cleaning them first will contaminate your disinfectant and cause it to lose its effectiveness. For up-to-date reference please refer to relevant state guidelines for Cleaning and Disinfecting Manicuring and Enhancement Equipment. For more information For contact information contact the Australian Professional Fingernail Association APFA, Details on our website: www.youngnails.com.au Page 3 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Ventilation The first step in creating a safe working environment is understanding what can contaminate the air. The second step is taking measures to improve the problem. It’s the air that you breathe. Proper ventilation in the salon will drastically reduce your chances of becoming affected by the chemicals used at your work station. All products— even the safe ones—release some odour. Don’t be fooled by products labelled “odourfree.” All that means is that another chemical has been added to mask the odour, but it’s still something that you’re breathing. Proper ventilation can protect you and your client’s lungs from the following: • Vapours: Monomers Polish removers, Acetones and Alcohols all evaporate. The rate of evaporation will usually determine the amount of vapour smell in the salon. • Dust: Dust is made up of small particles that float around after the finishing procedure. Acrylic and gel dust is generated with hand or electric filing. • Mists: Usually generated with spray or aerosol accelerators. Whether its vapours, dust or mist, proper ventilation at the work station and in the salon can remove contaminants in the air and help keep you healthy. The most effective form of ventilation is a local, fresh-air ventilation system. An efficiently designed system will pull vapours away from the source and should capture 15 to 30 Metres of contaminants per minute (mpm). Odour Control Follow these steps to keep odour at a minimum in the salon: • Keep all containers, especially those with liquid contents, tightly sealed when not in use. • Place soiled paper towels in sealed plastic bags before you put them in the trash, preferably an air-tight wastebasket. • Use dampen dishes with lids to prevent quick evaporation. Dust-Control Follow these easy steps to keep dust at a minimum: • Get a desk vent. This will draw the dust and odours away from your breathing space. A desk vent contains a charcoal-filtering system that will help purify the air you breathe. • Use an ionizer to charge dust particles, causing them to fall to the floor. • Use a HEPA filter to remove fine dust from the air. • Wear a disposable mask. It’s the most effective way to protect your lungs. Other options: YN-99 Dust Extractor Fumelok System Emendee System (YN-99DE) Contact kristin@youngnails.com.au for more information on these products. Page 4 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Air-Quality Check Answer these questions to find out if you have air quality problems in your salon: • • • • • • • Do your clients complain about strong odours when they walk in? Do you have to open the windows or doors because of the strong smell? Can you detect the strong smell of products on the opposite side of the salon? Does a smell linger for a long time after product use? Is the smell still strong when you arrive at work in the morning? Does the food you eat lack flavour, or do you have a funny taste in your mouth? Do the odours not bother you? Or is it possible you’re just used to them? If you answered yes to two or more questions, you should definitely take steps to improve the ventilation in your workplace. Do it today. Your health isn’t to be taken lightly. Carpal Tunnel Syndrome Understanding basic ergonomics and using the right electric file can save your fingers, wrists, hands, shoulders, and back. It can even save your career. No doubt about it, your hands and wrists are the most important tools you own. Without a healthy body you cannot work as a nail technician. Something as simple as changing your grips and working with an electric file can minimize the pressure you put on your precious hands and fingers. Most nail technicians use an under grip method when working on their clients. Then they spend 15 to 20 minutes filing the perfect shape. The problem is that nail technicians do this all day long, day in, day out. Because we love you guys and want you to have long careers, we’ve created the following solution to this problem: 1. The Over Grip Holding a client’s finger from over their wrists will put you at a side profile to their fingers. This will also straighten out your wrist, lower your shoulder and keep your lower back straight, giving you hours/days/weeks/months/years of a healthier working posture. Use the I-Formation file technique to file the perfect shape. 2. Electric Filing Proper electric file usage will minimize repetitive motion. Refer to our guide to electric filing to understand how this tool can improve and even save your career. Switching to electric versus hand filing can make a huge difference in the quantity and quality of your work. Page 5 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Acrylic vs. Gel Most nail technicians find that one application technique isn’t enough to accommodate every situation. Are acrylic nails the best choice? Or would gel be better? Maybe a combination? Knowing which application to use on a client in any given situation can pose challenging questions, but we’re here to answer them for you. We know which techniques have proven effective and which, after years of trial and error, have failed to be successful. Remember, if you choose the right approach the first time, you’ll save time, work faster and safer and win the loyalty of the client. It’s worth the effort. See the Need- Acrylic, Synergy Gel or Mani Q? New nail client’s natural nails are usually not in good form. This is why the client is looking to you for a nail enhancement service in the first place. You’ll come across nail plates that are flat, splayed, or offer absolutely no free edge with which to perform your magic. Then there are the infamous nail biters. The application of an acrylic system/hard gel enables you to cast or re-shape the nail bed into an attractive first set of nails with good formation and strength. A client’s lifestyle can usually determine what system suits her (or his) natural nails. For example, if the client plays sports or tends to pick at their nails, they will have greater success with acrylic. The tighter bond of acrylic may stand up better than hard gel. ManiQ is quite flexible and is excellent for natural nail overlays and gel toes. In addition to working on the nails, the technician’s job also becomes a process of keen observation in deciding whether acrylic, hard or soft gel will provide the best bond and durability for the client’s lifestyle. Don’t make an assumption; just ask about their day-to-day activities and get the scoop. In any new nail service, you will find that in some cases sculptured Nails will be the best new nail application choice. This will let you reshape the nail plate, ensuring the strongest nail extension while having to work with little or no natural free edge. If you are using Synergy Gel or YN acrylic you will find that just about anything is possible. You can achieve all YN application techniques with both products. This ensures the finished product is always strong and professional. If your client already has nice natural nails and does not require any more length, then Mani Q is the perfect option for them. It is a soft Gel system that is extremely gentle on the natural nail. Mani Q will give the client a nice thin coating over the natural nail without the feeling of wearing an “artificial enhancement”. Mani Q will encourage the growth of the natural nail and with proper application will not peel, lift or chip for four long weeks! – (and longer) Page 6 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Young Nails has a range to offer you in Acrylic, Soak Off (Soft) and Synergy (Hard) Gel systems - your options are limitless. Your choices will be generally based on client’s requirements as per your recommendations after you have asked all the right questions. Experiment, have fun and make sure to ask questions... We’re always here to help. Page 7 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Acrylic Resin System Utilizing the latest in powder manufacturing technology, Young Nails has harnessed a process that creates a perfect homogeneous blend of copolymers within every powder bead. This process is called Exact Particle Blend. Our unique chemical design has revolutionized the way our powders are manufactured. The result is that each bead of the copolymer blend has a perfectly equalized mix-ratio. This assures higher consistency, stronger workability and powerful adhesion. The combination of our liquid and powders creates an entanglement of polymer chains. Called Chain Entanglement Technology (CET), these polymers weave into the keratin structure creating an entanglement of polymer chains as soon the product is applied to the natural nail. CET ensures enhanced strength, superior adhesion and greater flexibility. HPMA- Hydroxy Propyl Methacrylate, has a lower evaporation rate which not only lowers the odour of the acrylic, it gives the product a chance to adhere to the nail plate before drying out. Protein Bond- Acid Free Primer, this acts like a double sided sticky tape to anchor the product down on to the nail plate. Protein Bond provides maximum strength, adhesion, ease-of-use and versatility without the corrosive chemicals found in existing primers. Protein Bond organically bonds to the keratin structure of the natural nail plate, for stronger adhesion. Also is an excellent Base Coat under Nail Polish. It can also be used to eliminate those very fine dust lines before refills. Temperature During the Setting Process Temperature can affect the setting process. The optimum temperature for our products is 23.5ºC. Colder temperatures can set the products slower while heat can set them faster. If the temperature is too cold, make sure you bleed the excess liquid out of the belly of the brush to prevent it from running. If the temperature is too warm, more liquid can help slow down the quick polymerization. Finding the perfect consistency depends on how much liquid-to-powder is mixed. Getting a controlled application can prevent the product from running or drying too quickly. If there is too much liquid, press the back of the brush onto the paper towel for 1 second to remove any extra. The pearl should not have any dry powder around the edges before application. If it’s too wet, the product will stick to the brush while pressing it into place. You should be able to press the product perfectly into place without the product sticking to the brush, running into the cuticles or drying before bonding to the natural nail. Page 8 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Acrylic Setting Times Core (Medium to Fast) 1:30 minutes before there is no movement 4:30 before the product can be filed Speed (Fast) 1:00 minute before there is no movement 4:00 minutes before the product can be filed Acrylic Powders (Core) Available in: XXX White An intense white powder intended to show off those perfect smile lines and designed for clients who love that dramatic French look. XXX White is the choice of competitors around the world. XXX Pink A bright pink that brings out the intensity of the client’s natural nail. XXX Pink powder is designed to create a more dramatic look or add a little colour to clients with pale natural nails. French Pink The most extreme of our Pink Powders. French Pink is designed to create a more intense look or add a brighter colour to clients with pale natural nails. White A soft, natural looking white powder for clients seeking a classic look. Pink A lightly tinted pink powder designed to create a clean, natural look. Clear A crystal clear powder with glass-like transparency. Natural A semi-opaque powder used on the free edge for a natural look or over the entire nail when using polish. Available sizes: 40g, 85g and 660g Acrylic Powders (Speed) Available in: White An intense white powder intended to show off those perfect smile lines and designed for clients who love that dramatic French look. This powder is the same colour as XXX White in the core range Frosted Pink A semi opaque, satin pink powder great for hiding flaws in client’s natural nails. Perfect for nail biters. For even more coverage you can add, blushing girl, sissy salmon or metallic red. The ratio is 1 part colour to 10 parts frosted pink. Pink A lightly tinted pink powder designed to create a clean, natural look. This powder is the same colour as XXX Pink in the core range. Clear A crystal clear powder with glass-like translucency. Natural A semi-opaque powder used on the free edge for a natural look or over the entire nail when using polish. Available sizes: 40g, 85g and 660g Page 9 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Customised Core Area Blends Our Speed Frosted Pink powder is a semi-opaque powder, so to create a complete cover you will need to custom blend. There are 3 main blends that we use at Young Nails these are the Ratio’s and Colour Tones. Pink Skin Tone (using a Young Nails Cleat Mixing Jar) -Fill pot ¾ with Frosted Pink Powder -Use a full scoop of Blushing Girl (Pastel) -Use a ½ scoop of Metallic Red (Metallic) Natural Skin Tone (using a Young Nails Cleat Mixing Jar) -Fill Pot ¾ with Frosted Pink Powder - Use a full scoop of Metallic Red (Metallic) - Use a ½ scoop of Blushing Girl (Pastel) Olive Skin Tone (using a Young Nails Cleat Mixing Jar) -Fill pot ¾ with Frosted Pink Powder - Use a ½ scoop of Sissy Salmon (Pastel) - Use a half scoop of Metallic Red (Metallic) OPTION : If you would like a soft glitter look in any of your blends use crystal glitter. (Crystal Glitter product code - 13003) Tip: A YN clear mixing jar will take 12 scoops and leave enough room to shake up. Page 10 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Acrylic Preparation Young Nails recommends the following preparation method for acrylic nails: 1. Use Cleanse to sanitize both you and your client’s hands. Cleanse will leave a light lemon scent without drying the way other sanitizers do. 2. Push back all cuticles with the Magic Wand. Make sure you push and lift the cuticle away from the nail plate. Use the bladed end to scrape away any protein growth from under the cuticle and growth channel areas. OPTION 2 : Use Cone Diamond Bit (medium) on the lowest speed of YN99 E-File working in one direction (normally towards yourself) slowly lightly move bit around cuticle area. 3. Use 150-180 grit file to remove shine from nail surface. Remember to remove shine in one direction when hand filing. Start at the cuticle area and come down the sidewalls. Repeat on the opposite side. OPTION 3 : Using your mandrel bit with a medium Course sanding band on your YN99 EFile. Working in one direction(normally towards yourself). Move across nail plate. Do not use pressure allow band to do the work, avoiding cuticle area. 4. Remove the balance of any shine by following through the body of the natural nail. After shine has been removed, dust away nail filings with manicure brush. Saturate cotton wipe with Swipe and then scrub the nail plate to remove any residual oil and contaminants. 5. Apply 2 coats of Protein Bond to natural nail. Do not flood the surrounding skin with Protein Bond. This can lead to overexposure and irritation. Page 11 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Acrylic Fill Preparation 1. Use Cleanse to sanitize both you and your client’s hands. Cleanse will leave a light lemon scent without drying the way other sanitizers do. 2. Push back all cuticles with your Magic Wand. Make sure you push and lift the cuticle away from the nail plate. Use the bladed end to scrape away any protein growth from under the cuticle and nail groove area. OPTION 2 : Use Cone Diamond Bit (medium) on the lowest speed of YN99 E-File working in one direction (normally towards yourself) slowly lightly move bit around cuticle area. 3. Assess the need to remove any lifted product from cuticle area and free edge. If you see any lifting around the cuticle area, use your medium carbide or diamond bit and cut a line behind any lifting to ensure a clean removal from acrylic that may still be firmly attached to the nail bed. If you see any air pockets, take the same bit and cut a clean line around the air pocket to ensure easy removal. REMEMBER: DON’T USE EITHER OF THESE BITS ON THE NATURAL NAIL. USE OF THESE BITS ON THE NATURAL NAIL WILL CAUSE RED MARKS ON THE NAIL BED. MAKE A GROOVE ONLY DEEP ENOUGH TO CREATE A PERFORATION FOR EASY REMOVAL. OPTION 3 : Using your mandrel bit with a medium Course sanding band on your YN99 EFile. Working in one direction(normally towards yourself). Move across nail plate. Do not use pressure allow band to do the work, avoiding cuticle area. 4. After removing any lifting or air pockets, use your medium sanding band or 150180 grit file and remove the shine from the natural nail. Be sure to bevel edges of files and sanding bands before using them on a customer. This will remove the sharp abrasive edges. NOTE: If using an arbour band, use the lowest setting on the YN99. Do not apply pressure. Let the electric file do the work for you. 5. Use Swipe with lint-free square wipes and scrub the nail plate and existing acrylic free of oils, dust, or contaminants. 6. Apply 2 coats of Protein Bond to the natural nail. Do not flood the surrounding skin with Protein Bond. This can lead to overexposure and irritation. Page 12 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Acrylic Sculpting (Reverse Application) Preparation 1. Use Cleanse to sanitize both you and your client’s hands. Cleanse will leave a light `lemon scent without drying the way other sanitizers do. 2. Push back all cuticles with the Magic Wand. Make sure you push and lift the cuticle away from the nail plate. Use the bladed end to scrape away any protein growth from under the cuticle and growth channel areas. OPTION 2 : Use Cone Diamond Bit (medium) on the lowest speed of YN99 E-File working in one direction (normally towards yourself) slowly lightly move bit around cuticle area. 3. Use 150-180 grit file to remove shine from nail surface. Remember to remove shine in one direction when hand filing. Start at the cuticle area and come down the sidewalls. Repeat on the opposite side. OPTION 3 : Using your mandrel bit with a medium Course sanding band on your YN99 E-File. Working in one direction(normally towards yourself). Move across nail plate. Do not use pressure allow band to do the work, avoiding cuticle area. 4. Remove the balance of any shine by following through the body of the natural nail. After shine has been removed, dust away nail filings with manicure brush. Saturate cotton wipe with Swipe and then scrub the nail plate to remove any residual oil and contaminants. 5. Apply 2 coats of Protein Bond to natural nail. Do not flood the surrounding skin with Protein Bond. This can lead to overexposure and irritation. Application 1. Pick up a pearl sized appropriately for the finger and apply pearl to the cuticle area. (A great way to judge the amount is usually half the size of the nail plate.) As the pearl starts to run toward the free edge, maintain the thinness around the perimeter of the nail while keeping the bulk at the stress area. Using a flat tip, create a barrier between the cuticle area and the natural nail to create flushness with the acrylic to the natural nail. Use the tip of your brush to swipe the smile line in reverse. Make sure the thickness is the same from one side to the other. 2. File smile lines with diamond file 3. Apply forms correctly to natural nail. (Refer to forms guideline for proper form application). If you are extending the nail plate past the free edge area you should apply forms first to have support to work on. Page 13 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 4. Press product (White or Glitter mix) flush to the smile line. Don’t worry about overapplying past the smile because the product will file away to leave a crisp smile line. Make sure sidewalls are straight and product is tucked into growth channel corners. 5. Remove form from under enhancement and file along growth channels to remove any rough edges with your diamond file 6. File enhancement with I-Formation filing road map to establish proper nail structure. (Refer to proper filing in I-Formation road map section). 7. Apply one coat of Finish Gel sealer to both hands and cure for 2 minutes. 8. Use Rose Oil to condition the free edge and the cuticle area. Using rose oil on a daily basis will condition the matrix, hyponychium and free edge, preventing them from getting dry and brittle. Flawless French Sculpts — Acrylic Traditional Application 1. Use Cleanse to sanitize both you and your client’s hands. Cleanse will leave a light lemon scent without the drying the way many other sanitizers do. 2. Push back cuticles with the spoon side of the Magic Wand. Make sure you push and lift the cuticle away from the nail plate. Use the bladed end to scrape away any protein growth from under the cuticle and nail groove area. OPTION 2 : Use Cone Diamond Bit (medium) on the lowest speed of YN99 E-File working in one direction (normally towards yourself) slowly lightly move bit around cuticle area. 3. Using 150/150 or 180/180 grit file or medium arbour band, remove shine from the natural nail. If you are using an electric file, do not apply pressure. Let the gentle rotation of the bands remove shine without pressure. 4. Use your Swipe with a lint-free square wipe and scrub the nail plate free of all oil and contaminants. 5. Apply 2 coats of Protein Bond to the exposed natural nail. Protein Bond leaves a tacky layer to which the product will adhere. Make sure the surface stays sticky. The first step for successful sculpts is proper form application (see Nail Form Advantage guide). The forms must be applied to the finger with zero separation under the free edge. In addition, the sidewalls must be straight and the growth channels must be free. Once the forms have been applied to all the fingers, the proper pearl must be picked up to have the most success. Young Nails has two working powders to suit your application style (Core and Speed). Your skill level and the temperature in the salon will determine which powder to use. Page 14 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Sculpt Like the Artist You Are! Use the Following Guidelines for Proper Free Edge Sculpting 1. Immerse your Artistic Sculptor Brush or Pro Sculptor Brush fully in the dampen dish with your nail liquid. Remove liquid from one side of the brush by pulling brush hair against side of dampen dish from the base of ferrule to the tip of the brush. 2. Use one side of the brush tip to pick up a perfect pearl. Next, place the brush in the powder by holding the flattened tip on the surface. Whatever you do, don’t drag the brush through the powder. 3. Place pearl at centre of free edge and press evenly both across and up to the corner of the smile with the body of the brush (choose left or right side). Hold side wall evenly, and press acrylic across and up to opposite side of the smile. By holding the tip of the brush at a 45º angle behind the smile, you can carve a groove at the smile to ensure proper groove depth. This will prevent the white from shadowing when using bright pink powders. Make sure that the free edge is an even surface all the way across and that the depth of the smile is an even groove from corner to corner. Sweeeeet! 4. Place a pink or clear pearl behind smile and press from side to side. Make sure that the pearl is as flush to the natural nail as possible. Patting too vigorously will cause bubbling. The best method is pressing the acrylic into place. 5. The final pearl should be applied with the tip of the brush acting as a barrier between the natural nail and the product at the cuticle area. Make sure that you lay the product at the cuticle area flush with the nail plate. If there are any ledges after the product dries, there’s a greater chance that excess filing can create future lifting. Too dry or wet of an application or touching the cuticle area can cause lifting. Make sure that the flat surface of the brush contours to the shape of the natural nail when laying down your cuticle area. HINT: If the pearl you pick up is too wet, try bleeding the excess liquid from your brush before picking up the pearl. This will prevent the product from running all over the nail. 6. Remove form from under enhancement and file along growth channels to remove any rough edges with your diamond file 7. Please refer to I-Formation guidelines for proper finishing techniques. 8. Apply one coat of Finish gel sealer to both hands and cure for 2 minutes. 9. Use Rose Oil to condition the free edge and the cuticle area. Using Rose Oil on a daily basis will condition the matrix, hyponychium and free edge, preventing them from getting dry and brittle. Page 15 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Tip Overlays - Acrylic Shaping a Deeper Smile The wells of the tips can be shaped into a deeper smile to give the appearance of a longer nail bed or enhanced smile line. Hold a 180/180 grit file at a 45º angle starting at the centre of the well. File in one direction until a deeper smile has been achieved. Gluing Tips When applying glue to the tip, lightly brush the glue to the inside of the nail well. To get the right amount, unscrew the cap from the glue bottle and bend it inside the neck of the bottle to release the excess glue from the brush. Use the length of the brush to scrape the glue inside the well of the tip from corner to corner. When gluing the tip onto the free edge, rock it down or up at a 30º angle to push out any excess air trapped inside the well. Hold for five seconds. To prevent your lid from sticking to the bottle, try a little rose oil on the inside of the cap. Note: Young Nails brush on Glue will not dry up if you leave the lid off. Removing Shine from the Tip Following the correct technique is important for this procedure. You do not need to remove the shine from the tips when doing acrylic application. Acrylic bonds well to plastic. On the other hand, the shine must be removed when applying gel over tips. Gel does not bond well to a shiny surface. When removing the shine from the white tips, be careful not to remove too much of the smile. Filing too much can affect its physical appearance. Preparation 1. Use Cleanse to sanitize both you and your client’s hands. Cleanse will leave a light lemon scent without drying the way other sanitizers do. 2. Push back cuticles with the spoon side of Magic Wand. Make sure you push and lift the cuticle away from the nail plate. Use the bladed end to scrape away any protein growth from under the cuticle and nail groove area. OPTION 2 : Use Cone Diamond Bit (medium) on the lowest speed of YN99 E-File working in one direction (normally towards yourself) slowly lightly move bit around cuticle area. 3. Using the electric file with a medium sanding band or a 180/180 grit file, remove the shine from the natural nail. Or hand file option. 4. Use your Swipe with a lint-free square wipe and scrub the nail plate of all oil and contaminants. Page 16 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 5. Size the tip and glue to natural nail. When gluing tip, make sure you don’t flood the brush-on glue to the well of the tip. An even application will ensure a proper bond. Hold tip for 5 seconds. 6. Apply 2 coats of Protein Bond to natural nail. Don’t flood the surrounding skin with Protein Bond. This can lead to overexposure and irritation. Application To apply the acrylic, pick up an even pearl of clear and press it on the apex of the body and wipe your brush. Press an even amount to one side of the tip and pull through the free edge. Wipe your brush. Repeat the same motion on the opposite side starting from the centre of the tip. Once you pull through the free edge on the opposite side, use the body of the brush to adjust the thickness of the free edge. This will establish an even acrylic layer on the tip. The cuticle area should be applied so only a minimal amount of filing is required. You can achieve this by laying your acrylic pearl flush to the natural nail. Start the cuticle area by picking up a pearl and pressing the product to the cuticle area with the tip of the brush in front of the pearl at an angle. The tip of the brush should act as a barrier between the natural nail and the acrylic pearl. Move the acrylic down to the cuticle corner while keeping the tip of the brush flush to the nail plate. The natural nail surface is curved, so follow the contour of the nail shape as you press down toward the cuticle corner. Before pulling the enhancement through the body, make sure the acrylic is flush to the opposite cuticle corner. Never pull the product through the nail bed while the acrylic is wet. This will remove the product you just applied to the cuticle area. Use the brush as your guide to laying the product flush to the natural nail, then pull the product through the body. If you can’t complete the enhancement with 3 pearls, then a fourth pearl must be used. However, this last pearl should reinforce the stressed area and ensure that the enhancement has a beautiful upper arch. Whether you start from cuticle to free edge or otherwise depends on which method makes you most comfortable. Young Nails can help you determine which method of application best meets your needs. Just give us a shout. *All acrylic tip applications can be applied in reverse to create a two tone look. Please refer to reverse application in the acrylic sculpting section to understand the proper mechanics Page 17 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Finishing For detailed finishing information, please refer to the I-Formation guidelines for proper finishing techniques. Apply one coat of Finish gel sealer to both hands and cure for 2 minutes. Use Rose Oil to condition the free edge and the cuticle area. Using Rose Oil on a daily basis will condition the matrix, hyponychium and free edge, preventing them from getting dry and brittle. Page 18 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Over Here, Over There... Re-Balancing Acrylic Reverse — Fill Before Cut - FRENCH Preparation 1. Use Cleanse to sanitize both your and your client’s hands. Cleanse will leave a light lemon scent without drying the way other sanitizers do. 2. Push back the cuticles with your Magic Wand. Make sure you push and lift the cuticle away from the nail plate. Use the bladed end to scrape away any protein growth from under the cuticle and nail groove area. OPTION 2 : Use Cone Diamond Bit (medium) on the lowest speed of YN99 E-File working in one direction (normally towards yourself) slowly lightly move bit around cuticle area. 3. Assess the need to remove any lifted acrylic. If you see any lifting around the cuticle area, use your medium carbide or diamond bit and cut a line behind any lifting to ensure a clean removal from acrylic that may still be firmly attached to the nail bed. If you see any air pockets, take the same bit and cut a clean line around the air pocket. REMEMBER: DO NOT USE EITHER OF THESE BITS ON THE NATURAL NAIL. MAKE A GROOVE DEEP ENOUGH TO CREATE A PERFORATION FOR EASY REMOVAL. USE OF THESE BITS ON THE NATURAL NAIL WILL CAUSE RED MARKS ON THE NAIL BED. 4. After you have removed any lifting or air pockets, use your medium sanding band or 180/180 grit file and remove the shine from the natural nail. Be sure to bevel files and sanding bands before using them on a customer. This will remove sharp abrasive edges. 5. Use Swipe with a lint-free square wipe, and scrub the nail plate and existing acrylic free of oils, dust or contaminates. 6. Apply 2 coats of Protein Bond to the exposed natural nail. Protein Bond leaves a tacky layer to which the product will adhere. Make sure the surface stays sticky. Page 19 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Application 1st APPLICATION (Fill First) 1. The first stage of the reverse application is to fill all the pinks. The tip of the brush must act as a barrier between the natural nail and the product at the cuticle area. Make sure that you lay the product at the cuticle area flush with the nail plate. If there are any ledges after the product dries, there is more of a chance that excess filing can create future lifting. Too dry or wet of an application or touching the cuticle area can cause lifting. Make sure that the flat surface of the brush contours to the shape of the natural nail when laying down your cuticle area. 2nd Cutting and Application 1. Using your X-Cut Carbide, cut in a smile line into all 10 nails. Take your thumb and pointer finger and pull back your customers skin at the sidewalls. You are going to place the barrel bit at a 45º angle and cut in the new smile line from right to left, typically behind the two week growth line. If you are left handed, then you will be using the machine in reverse and working from left to right. 2. After your smile line has an even groove from side to side, remove existing acrylic on the free edge flush to the natural nail or tip. This will prevent shadowing when applying the new white acrylic. 3. Dust off all ten nails to remove any nail filings. 4. Apply 2 coats of Protein Bond only if the natural nail is exposed. Protein Bond will leave a sticky layer for the acrylic to adhere. 5. The Young Nails products you are using are self-levelling. The consistency of the acrylic works best when the acrylic pearl is at a matte finish. Using your Artistic Sculptor Brush, immerse your brush hair fully in the dampen dish with your nail liquid. Remove liquid from side of brush by pulling brush hair against side of dampen dish from base of ferrule to tip of brush. Use one side of the tip of your brush to pick up a perfect pearl. Then, place the brush in the powder by holding the flattened tip on the surface. Do not drag. 6. Place the pearl of white acrylic or glitter mix in front of the groove you just made and press the white acrylic up to the smile line of the pink. If you do over lap the two colours, it’s okay; the smile line will file away. 7. Repeat this step for all ten nails. Finishing 8. For more detailed information, please refer to the I-Formation guidelines for proper finishing techniques. 9. Apply one coat of Finish gel sealer to both hands and cure for 2 minutes. 10. Use Rose Oil to condition the free edge and the cuticle area. Using Rose Oil on a daily basis will condition the matrix, hyponychium and free edge, preventing them from getting dry and brittle. Page 20 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Up, Down, Re-Balancing Coloured or Art Free Edges. When working with Imagination Coloured Acrylic, Imagination Glitter mix, and with Imagination Liquid Art, the following procedure works best when rebalancing or changing colours: 1. After the acrylic fill-in, use your barrel bit to completely remove the free edge with the backward backfill procedure. Instead of removing acrylic flush to the free edge, remove the free edge completely. 2. Using Artistic Forms, reform the free edge and sculpt up to the smile line. Applying the product this way keeps colour from bleeding into the pink. 3. For more detailed coloured blending, refer to the Imagination Art section. For more detailed form information, please refer to I-Formation guidelines for proper finishing techniques. Page 21 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Traditional (Free Edge First) –Ancient Method The following procedure outlines how to prepare a Pink and White Traditional Back Fill: Preparation 1. Use Cleanse to sanitize both your and your client’s hands. Cleanse will leave a light lemon scent without drying the way other sanitizers do. 2. Push back cuticles with your Magic Wand 3-in-1 prep tool. Make sure you push and lift the cuticle away from the nail plate. Use the bladed end to scrape away any protein growth from under the cuticle and nail groove area. OPTION 2 : Use Cone Diamond Bit (medium) on the lowest speed of YN99 E-File working in one direction (normally towards yourself) slowly lightly move bit around cuticle area. 3. Assess the need to remove any lifted acrylic. If you see any lifting around cuticle area and free edge, use your medium X-Cut Carbide and cut a line behind any lifting to ensure a clean removal from acrylic that may still be firmly attached to the nail bed. If you see any air pockets, take the same bit and cut a clean line around the air pocket to ensure easy removal. REMEMBER: DO NOT USE EITHER OF THESE BITS ON THE NATURAL NAIL. MAKE A GROOVE DEEP ENOUGH TO CREATE A PERFORATION FOR EASY REMOVAL. USE OF THESE BITS ON THE NATURAL NAIL WILL CAUSE RED MARKS ON THE NAIL BED. 4. Using your X-Cut Carbide bit, remove the re-growth of the white acrylic. Lay the barrel bit on its side, flush with the nail. Using medium to strong pressure, start behind the smile line of the existing white acrylic and run the barrel in one direction toward the free edge. It is important that you take down a majority of the acrylic on the free edge to prevent shadowing when the new white acrylic is applied. Looking from the side of the nail, you should see a downward slope from apex to the tip of the free edge. 5. Repeat this step for all ten nails. 6. If you see any lifting or air pockets between the natural nail and the enhancement, they must be removed. This will prevent any cracking or breaking between appointments. 7. After you have removed any lifting or air pockets, use your medium grit file or medium sanding band to remove the shine from the natural nail. 8. Use your Swipe with lint-free square wipes and scrub the nail plate and existing acrylic free of oils, dust or contaminates. 9. Apply 2 coats of Protein Bond to the exposed natural nail. Protein Bond leaves a tacky layer to which the gel will adhere. Make sure the surface stays sticky. Page 22 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Application Young Nails products are self-levelling. The consistency of the acrylic works best when the acrylic pearl has a matte finish. 1. Using your Artistic Sculptor Brush, immerse your brush hair fully in the dampen dish with your nail liquid. Remove liquid from the side of the brush by pulling brush hair against side of dampen dish from base of ferrule to the tip of brush. Use one side of the brush tip to pick up a perfect pearl. Place the brush in the powder by holding the flattened tip on the surface. Do not drag. 2. Place White pearl at centre of the free edge and press evenly from across and up to corner of smile (choose left or right side) with body of brush. Hold side wall evenly, and press acrylic across free edge and up to opposite side of smile. By holding the tip of the brush at 45º angle behind the smile, you will carve a groove at the smile to ensure proper groove depth. This will prevent the white from shadowing when using bright pink powder. Make sure the product has been laid evenly across the prepared free edge. 3. The second pearl should be laid behind the smile line to fill in any unevenness. Make sure the pearl is not too large. This can make the upper arch too high and shadow the free edge. Fill in enough product to level in the free edge to the existing product at the apex. 4. The final pearl should be applied to the exposed natural nail. The tip of the brush must act as a barrier between the natural nail and the product at the cuticle area. Make sure that you lay the product at the cuticle area flush with the nail plate. If there are any ledges after the product dries, there is more of a chance that excess filing can create future lifting. Too dry or wet of an application or touching the cuticle area can cause lifting. Make sure that the flat surface of the brush contours to the shape of the natural nail when laying down your cuticle area. 5. Repeat these steps on all ten nails. Finishing For more detailed information, please refer to I-Formation guidelines for proper finishing techniques. 6. Use Rose Oil to condition free edge and the cuticle area. Using Rose Oil on a daily basis will condition the matrix, hyponychium and free edge, preventing them from getting dry and brittle. Page 23 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Reverse Backfill (Brush Technique) Preparation 1. Use Cleanse to sanitize both your own and your client’s hands. Cleanse will leave a light lemon scent without drying the way other sanitizers do. 2. Push back cuticles with your Magic Wand. Make sure you push and lift the cuticle away from the nail plate. Use the bladed end to scrape away any protein growth from under the cuticle and nail groove area. OPTION 2 : Use Cone Diamond Bit (medium) on the lowest speed of YN99 E-File working in one direction (normally towards yourself) slowly lightly move bit around cuticle area. 3. Assess the need to remove any lifted acrylic. If you see any lifting around the cuticle area or free edge, use your X-Cut bit and cut a line behind any lifting to ensure a clean removal from acrylic that may still be firmly attached to the nail bed. If you see any air pockets, take the same bit and cut a clean line around the air pocket to ensure easy removal. REMEMBER: DO NOT USE EITHER OF THESE BITS ON THE NATURAL NAIL. MAKE A GROOVE DEEP ENOUGH TO CREATE A PERFORATION FOR EASY REMOVAL. USE OF THESE BITS ON THE NATURAL NAIL WILL CAUSE RED MARKS ON THE NAIL BED. 4. After you have removed any lifting or air pockets, use your medium sanding band or 180/180 grit file and remove the shine from the natural nail. Be sure to bevel files and sanding bands before using them on a customer. This will remove sharp edges and keep them from being too abrasive. 5. Use Swipe with a lint-free square wipe and scrub the nail plate and existing acrylic free of oils, dust, or contaminates. 6. Apply 2 coats of Protein Bond to the exposed natural nail. Protein Bond leaves a tacky layer to which the gel will adhere. Make sure the surface stays sticky. Application 1st Application (Body First) 1. Start by picking up a pearl sized for the finger and apply it to the cuticle area. As the pearl starts to run toward the free edge, maintain the thinness around the perimeter of the nail while keeping the bulk at the stress area. Using the flat tip of the brush, create a barrier between the cuticle area and the natural nail for flushness with the acrylic to the natural nail. Use the tip of your brush to swipe the smile line in reverse. Make sure the thickness at the apex is the same from one side to the other. Also, make sure the smile line is behind the natural smile free edge to prevent the look of a 3-week growth. 2. File around smile line with diamond file. Page 24 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 3. Lay product to exposed free edge. Push into corners then use body of the brush to apply evenly across free edge. Don’t worry about over applying past the smile because the product will file away to leave a crisp smile line. Make sure the product does not run under the free edge. Finishing 1. File in the proper perimeter to establish a straight nail (Refer to Filing Proper Perimeter in I-Formation road map section). 2. File enhancement with I-Formation filing road map to establish proper nail structure. (Refer to proper filing in I-Formation road map section). Page 25 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Fun with Form Fitting Form-Placement Guidelines The grooves or growth channels of the nail plate are the guidelines for placing the form, not the free edge or hyponychium. This is the most important aspect of form placement. If you cannot sculpt your product onto the form without creating an edge where the form meets the line of the growth channel, the supports of your sculpted nail will not provide the strength needed for your work to hold up in your client’s real life routines. A well placed form equals a happier client. The form needs to sit parallel and even with the growth channels. Looking at the formplacement from the side, determine whether the tip of the form is too far up or down. To correct the placement, simply move the arms of the form in the direction of the correction. If the tip of the form points up, move the arms up. If the tip points down, move the arms down. Use the lines of the growth channels to judge the width of your sculpted extension, not the lines on the nail forms. To Place Your Form 1. Taking one form at a time from the roll, hold the form with a one or two-handed grip. Create a curve in the form that matches that of the natural nail plate or the curve formation you wish. When a natural free edge exists, use it to place the form under while lining the arms up in a parallel position with the growth channels. 2. When there is no free edge to guide your placement, imagine where the hyponychium track would be when placing the oval edge and concentrate your focus on lining up the arms in a parallel position with the growth channels. Expect to have the skin of the fingertip showing between the form and the growth channel. You will use the skin to build the support of the sculpted nail. 3. With a firm but gentle grip, centre the oval edge and lay the arms in the parallel position to accommodate the growth channels. Gently move the arms up or down to establish the curve of the sculpted extension. Press the arms of the form to the sides of the finger for a snug fit. 4. Check the fit by looking down the barrel of the form and fingernail. If you can look into the growth channels all the way to the cuticle, the form is well placed. If you see the form above the growth channel, you will have an extra step when removing the form. 5. When you’re satisfied with the position of the nail form, pinch the end tabs securely together. Tip: A great way to maintain the curve throughout your application of the form is to prepinch the tip. Open the backside to free the form and slide parallel to the growth channels. Page 26 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Nail Forms Adjustments If a form doesn’t fit, adjustments are required. Here are a few examples of potential challenges and their solutions. 1. Extreme Natural “C” Curve or Square Free Edge It can be a very challenging task to fit a form to the growth channels of a client who has a strong “C” curve or square free edge. The solution is to make the necessary adjustment by squaring the curved contact point of the form. 2. Wide Nail Generally this is the thumb. When you’re dealing with an extremely large nail, you’ll find that the nail form will not fit under the free edge and you’ll have difficulties balancing the form into the growth channels. You must cut 1/3rd off the right side of a form and 1/3rd off the left of another and stick them together. Use your scissors to cut out the front end for a balanced fit. 3. Extended Hyponychium Growth When you encounter a client who finds the forms very uncomfortable—pinching at the smile line—they most likely have hyponychium overgrowth. The solution is to create a proper fit and reduce the pressure by cutting in a deeper curved indentation (U) at the contact point of the form. 4. Square Free Edge Cut a square edge at the free edge to customize forms to fit. You can cut the center tab square on one side and place it underneath to give it a square edge. For detailed finishing information, please refer to I-Formation guidelines for proper finishing techniques 5. Extended Square Free Edge Fold both sides of the form along the growth channels of the centre tab, while still on backing paper. Roll C Curve into the centre of the form, peel backing paper off & set aside centre tab. Push an arch into the centre, the side walls will sit flat use your centre tab to create a bridge across the free edge area. 6. Stiletto Nail This is a normal application, unlike the square form it is imperative that the free edge of the form is tapered into a cone like shape all the way to the end of the form. Ensure that the form is tightly tucked under the finger. 7. Short Stiletto Nail Identical to the stiletto form, once the form is placed correctly use scissors to remove half of the form extending from the free edge. Page 27 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Your Road Map to Filing Success. I-Formation Understanding this technique will create the perfect structure when filing into shape. Right Handed – Set E-File to Forward Left Handed – Set E-File to Reverse STEP 1: Perimeter Shaping FILE: 100, 150, 180 Grit or Diamond File The perimeter is broken down into 3 points. (1) Free Edge, (2) Sidewalls, and (3) Lower Arch. When shaping the tip of the free edge you can create square, oval, or squoval (tapered) shapes by holding the file at a certain angle. Flush for square, 45º angle for squoval (tapered), and flat for oval. Hold your file with a strong grip and file up and down along the groove channel keeping the file straight. Pulling the file in diagonally can round out corners and create an unbalanced tip. Follow the same procedure for the opposing side. For straight lower arches, turn the client’s hand to the side and line up the file with the lowest part of the lower arch. Keep the file parallel to the finger and file straight and level until the board reaches the corner of the nail groove. This will create perfectly straight lower arches and prevent those unwanted steps (unevenness with lower arch, stair-like appearance). STEP 2: Upper Arch Shaping FILE: Medium to Fine File — 150-240 Grit Bits: Medium Arbour Bands, Diamond Bit or X-Cut Carbide Electric file: Hold the finger with an over grip to prevent your wrist from bending. This will provide you with a perfect view of the upper arch from a side profile. Start by filing from the free edge toward the cuticle area while keeping the barrel of your bit in the center of the nail. Use the length of your barrel as your guide while shaping the form of your upper arch. Pull the hand piece in one direction to prevent the barrel from slipping. File up and over the upper arch by keeping the base of the barrel in contact with the free edge, the body in contact with the apex, and the tip in contact with the cuticle area. Hand file: Protect the cuticle area with your other hand while filing the upper arch. Keep the file in contact with the centre of the enhancement file, shaping the upper arch. Stroke the file horizontally as you move from cuticle to free edge. Page 28 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Storing Your Acrylic Brush When storing your brush You must lay all Young Nails Acrylic Brushes flat when storing as the excess monomer in the brush hair can affect the brush by 1. If you store your brush with the hair facing up the monomer can break down the glue at the base of the brush 2. If you store the brush with the hair facing down the monomer can break down the plastic cap on the end of the lid Storing Your Gel Brush When storing your gel brush ensure there is no product left in the brush, you can clean this out with swipe and lint free wipe DO NOT EVER LEAVE YOUR BRUSH WITH PRODUCT IN IT NEAR THE UV LIGHT. AS THIS WILL CURE THE PRODUCT IN THE BRUSH AND THIS WILL LEAVE YOUR BRUSH UNUSABLE. Page 29 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 This Is The Juice. Liquid Art. 1. There are three different colours of Liquid Art: Red, Blue and Yellow. 2. Liquid Art is a dye that is added to your nail liquid. All 3 colours are highly concentrated. You can mix the dye in any ratio that you’d like. The more nail liquid you add, the lighter the colour becomes. Liquid Art has 8 colours that can be made from the red, blue and yellow. Remember, the stronger the mix the stronger the colour. Here is a simple guide to creating your colours: • Red mixed with less nail liquid creates a dark red. • Red mixed with more nail liquid creates a light pink. • Red mixed with yellow and added to nail liquid makes orange. • Red mixed with blue and added to nail liquid makes purple. (more blue for purple) (more red for plum) • Yellow mixed with nail liquid makes yellow. • Yellow mixed with blue makes green. • Blue mixed with nail liquid makes blue. (add a little more blue and you have aqua) • Red, yellow, and blue mixed together makes brown. 3. If you mix larger amounts of Liquid Art with nail liquid and want to save it for the next day or so, be sure to keep it in a tightly-sealed container to avoid evaporation. 4. If you sculpt the Liquid Art with Crystal Clear powder, it will become clear like glass. If you sculpt with White Powder, it will become a solid colour. 5. Used as an additive, Liquid Art has colour-enhancing properties. You can add Liquid Art to any glitter product that has already been mixed with clear powder. 6. Always designate brushes to be used with the Liquid Art product to avoid wasting time cleaning the ferrule. 7. If you cap your mylar with liquid art instead of nail liquid you can change the colour of the mylar. Page 30 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Applying Liquid Art The following steps will help make your Liquid Art application fun and easy: 1. If you intend to perform a French application on the natural nail, make sure you remove all of the free edge or you will lose its true transparency. 2. When applying Liquid Art over the entire natural nail, you must apply a thin layer of clear acrylic on the nail plate to ensure that you don’t stain the nail. 3. When sculpting the free edge of the nail—either on a clear tip or on an artistic form— you should perform your application when the acrylic pearl is still a matte finish, thereby avoiding a build-up of excess liquid that can stain the natural nail. 4. As you sculpt with Liquid Art—with clear or white powder—you do not need to cap the nail with clear powder. The strength of the nail remains steady if you use Liquid Art. Mylar and Confetti Application with Acrylic and Gel 1. Make sure when pressing Mylar Icy or Confetti into the acrylic the product is wet. This will allow the flakes to stick to the product. Apply a layer of Crystal Clear Acrylic over the top of the Mylar or Confetti to sandwich the product in between the acrylic. 2. An easy way to get the Mylar or Confetti to stick to gel is to apply a thin layer on Clear Sculptor to the desired area. Make sure you press the Mylar or Confetti to the Clear Sculptor before you set the gel. Apply a layer of clear building gel over the top of the Mylar or Confetti to sandwich the product in between the gel. Branding Tools with Acrylic When using branding tools there are a few important things to remember: Once you have applied your base art layer on your free edge. cap the art in clear (you should ALWAYS use this layer to brand into) allowing the clear to dry slightly (until Matte). Use a small amount of dry clear powder dust on the top of clear layer to reduce stickiness. (This is very important to stop tool from clogging up with product) Dip tool into the clear powder press pot, press the branding tool gentle into soft clear capping (in & out cleanly). Once you have completed this on all nails choose your fill colour. Apply the coloured acrylic to areas where branding has taken place. It is very important that you use the coloured Acrylic wet as this will enable the product to seep into all grooves. Page 31 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Polka Dots with Acrylic Using Imagination Art Brush load with Monomer push into powder (core or colour) creating a small neat bead. If you find the bead is to wet bleed excess monomer from brush onto brush mat. Roll the bead off brush on to the free edge of extension. Do not flatten or pat bead down, it must sit round and high. Continue this process until you have applied sufficient amount. The dots must remain same height can be any width or colour you wish. Once the polka dots have been completed you must cap the entire design with the colour of your choice. Ensure you have applied a thick enough layer to cover the dots and to create strength. Use I formation to revel your design. Netting with Acrylic There are two techniques you can use with netting in acrylic Once you have applied the art base, cap the free edge with clear acrylic, you should always use this layer to do the netting). Allow the clear to dry slightly (until matte) use a small amount of the dry clear powder dust on top of the clear layer to reduce stickiness. (This is very important to stop netting from stickiness in acrylic). Dip pink net into clear powder pot. Holding the netting firmly on each side, press it gently into the clear capping. Once in the nail, let go of netting and carefully peel the net out from clear. After you have completed this on all nails choose you fill colour, using the coloured acrylic wet fill all areas of netting impressions with colour. Use I formation to revel design. This technique is normally used with your snake skin. In the treasure chest design, we insert the black netting into, (and leave it) in the design. Use your black netting and cut a small piece off with scissors. You need to make sure the acrylic that you are placing the net into is wet. Pick the piece of net up with your brush and softly push into wet acrylic holding your brush there for a few seconds until the net stops moving. You can apply a very small amount of clear acrylic over the netting to ensure it stays in place (this is optional). Cap you design in clear Acrylic after all nails are done and use the “I” Formation technique to reveal design. Page 32 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Engraving with Acrylic You can use your engraving E-file piece for many designs. It is most important that the engravement is the last step you take before you finish gel. Once your acrylic is completely set, place your engravement E-file bit into your YN99 holding the hand piece firm and steady using the edge of the bit to create your design. Move the bit in one direction (do not hold the piece in one spot as this can distort your design ) If you want to create dots or holes us the engravement piece right on the point of the bit and put pressure downwards choose your fill colour apply your wet acrylic colour into engraved area’s. Once all acrylic is dry you can use your Diamond Medium Barrel to gently remove excess colour. Use your hand file (180/180 buffer) to smooth and them apply finish gel. C Curve Sticks with Acrylic Once you have applied your base art layer on your free edge. Cap your artwork with clear acrylic (You should always use this layer to C Curve Drag) Allow the clear to dry slightly (until matte) use a small amount of dry clear powder to dust onto clear capped layer (to reduce stickyness) This is very important to stop C Curve stick from clogging up. Dip tool into clear powder. You can brand the Acrylic, straight in and out for a circle brand. You can also push C Curve stick into the free edge of the nail so 1/3 or ¾ of the tool is over the edge, push down and drag out 9removing the acrylic from the centre , and off the nail) Choose your fill colour/s apply coloured acrylic to the area’s you have used your C Curve stick (ensuring you have completely filled the impressions. Use your I Formation Technique to reveal design. Page 33 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 A Little of This, A Little of That. Colour Acrylic Mixing Chart Instructions. 1. Mixing jars hold 12 scoops, which still leaves room for mixing. 2. Add speed acrylic to each mix for faster set times. Also, when adding glitter to colour acrylic or using Liquid Art, be sure to add a few scoops of Speed Powder to help set faster. 3. Metallic colours will add a nice shimmer to any colour when mixed in a 1:10 ratio. Leave room for 2 scoops of speed clear. 4. Illumination 1 & 2 glitter kits must be capped with clear so they don’t file off silver. 5. All glitter additives must be mixed in a 12 part ratio with speed clear, speed pink or speed white. 6. Colour combinations of glitter and colour acrylic can have Ice, Funkadelic, Rock Star, Fortune, Hologram or Crystal added as 1 part. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 5-Rouge 5-Rainbow Orange 2-Speed Clear 3-Fortune 7-Brown 2-Speed Clear 2-Fortune 8-Rouge 2-Speed Clear 2-Fortune 8-Bronze 2-Speed Clear 2-Rock Star Glitter 2-Hologram 8-Speed Clear 2-Punk Rock 2-Rock Star Glitter 8-Speed Clear 2-Golden Orange 2-Bronze Glitter 1-Fortune 7-Speed Clear 2-Fuchsia 2-Western Blue 1-Purple Glitter 7-Speed Clear 1-Sky Blue 2-Royal Blue 1-Canadian Blue 8-Speed Clear 2-Royal Red 1-Sky Blue 2- Fuchsia 7-Speed Clear 1-Emerald 1-Western Blue 2-Punk Rock 8-Speed Clear 2-Royal Blue 2-Golden Orange 1-Fortune 7-Speed Clear 1-Sunshine 1-Apple 1-Crush 9-Speed Clear 1-Cotton Candy 1-Meon A Sky, 1-Shock 9 Speed Clear 1-Shock 1-Pinkie 1-Meon A Sky 9-Speed Clear 2-Pinkie 1-Orange Crush 1-Sunshine 8-Speed Clear 2-Lava 2-Orange Crush 1-Sunshine 7-Speed Clear 1-Funkadelic 7-Speed Clear 1-Funkadelic Purple Clear 1-Funkadelic Blue Clear Page 34 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Holiday Recipes. • Emerald Green 3, Apple 1, Lava 1 • Royal Red 3, Lava 1, Rock Star 1 • Emerald Green 2, Royal Red 1, Silver 1, Hologram 1 • Emerald Green 2, Royal Red 2, Fortune 1 • Emerald Green 2, Royal Red 2, Rock Star 1 • Emerald Green 2, Royal Red 1, Royal Blue 1, Punk Rock 1, Ice 1 • Silver 1, Rock Star 1, Hologram 2, Crystal 1, Ice 1 • Rock Star 1, Ice 1, Funkadelic 1, Crystal 2 • Canadian Blue 1, Western Blue 1, Sky Blue 2, Ice 1, Funkadelic 1 • Royal Red 2, Fuchsia 1, Rock Star 1, Lava 1 • Royal Red 2, Hologram 1, Rock Star 1, Apple 1 • Emerald Green 2, Apple 1, Incredible Green 1, Rock Star 1 • Dark Gold 2, Rock Star 1, Shimmering 1, Sand Fortune 1 • Emerald Green 2, Apple 1, Incredible Green 1, Jet Black 1 • Purple 2, Canadian Blue 1, Royal Blue 1, Ice 1 • Fuchsia 1, Funkadelic 1, Ice 1, Purple 2 • Lava 1, Dark Gold 1, Bronze 1, Shimmer Sand 2 • Bronze 1, Shimmer Sand 1, Golden Orange 1, Crystal 1, Lava 1 • Silver 2, Funkadelic 1, Rock Star 1, Punk Rock 1 • Jet Black 1, Fortune 1, Hologram 1, Funkadelic 1 • Royal Blue 2, Ice 1, Funkadelic 1, Rock Star 1 • Royal Red 2, Ice 1, Funkadelic 1, Rock Star 1 • Emerald Green 2, Ice 1, Funkadelic 1, Rock Star 1 • Bronze 2, Ice 1, Funkadelic 1, Rock Star 1 • Golden Orange 1, Ice 1, Rock Star 1, Funkadelic 1 • Golden Orange 2, Lava 2, Fortune 1 • Emerald Green 2, Apple 1, Rainbow Green 1 • Royal Red 3, Lava 1, Rainbow Red 1 • Emerald Green 2, Royal Red 1, Silver 1, Hologram 1, Rainbow Green 1 • Emerald Green 1, Royal Red 2, Fortune 1, Rainbow Red 1 • Emerald Green 2, Royal Red 2, Rock Star 1, Metallic Pearl 1 • Emerald Green 1, Royal Red 1, Royal Blue 1, Punk Rock 1, Ice 1 • Silver 1, Rock Star 1, Hologram 1, Crystal 1, Ice 1, Metallic Silver 1 • Rock Star 1, Ice 1, Funkadelic 1, Crystal 2, Metallic Pearl 1 • Canadian Blue 1, Dark Metallic Blue 1, Sky Blue 1, Ice 1, Funkadelic 1 • Royal Red 1, Fuchsia 1, Rock Star 1, Lava 1, Rainbow Red 1 • Royal Red 1, Hologram 1, Rock Star 1, Apple 1, Metallic Red 1 Page 35 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 • Emerald Green 1, Apple 1, Incredible Green 1, Rock Star 1, Metallic Green • Dark Gold 1, Rock Star 1, Shimmering Sand 1, Fortune 1, Metallic Bronze • Emerald Green 2, Apple 1, Incredible Green 1, Jet Black 1, Metallic Rouge 1 • Purple 1, Canadian Blue 1, Royal Blue 1, Ice 1, Rainbow Blue 1 • Fuchsia 1, Funkadelic 1, Ice 1, Purple 1, Rainbow Purple 1 • Lava 1, Dark Gold 1, Bronze 1, Shimmer Sand 1, Metallic Gold 1 • Bronze 1, Shimmer Sand 1, Golden Orange 1, Lava 1, Rainbow Orange • Silver 1, Funkadelic 1, Rock Star 1, Punk Rock 1, Metallic Blue 1 • Jet Black 1, Fortune 1, Hologram 1, Funkadelic 1, Metallic Violet 1 • Royal Red 2, Ice 1, Funkadelic 1, Rock Star 1, Rainbow Red 1 • Royal Blue 2, Ice 1, Funkadelic 1, Rock Star 1, Rainbow Green 1 • Emerald Green 2, Ice 1, Funkadelic 1, Rock Star 1, Rainbow Green 1 • Bronze 2, Ice 1, Funkadelic 1, Rock Star 1, Earthtone Brown 1 • _Golden Orange 1, Ice 1, Rock Star 1, Funkadelic 1, Rainbow Orange Brown 1 Page 36 of 37 2009_Acrylic Manual_15.9.9 Contact information Young Nails Australia Head Office 6 / 6-8 Enterprise Street , Molendinar, Gold Coast 4214 Phone : Fax: Email: +61 7 55 975 466 +61 7 55 975 833 info@youngnails.com.au Co-Owner & Director Kylie Sulman Phone: 07 55 975 466 Mobile: Email: kylie@youngnails.com.au 0408 678 521 Co-Owner & Director, Business and Marketing Manager Kristin Sulman Phone: 07 55 975 466 Mobile: 0410 678 501 Email: kristin@youngnails.com.au Head of Education Simone Keyte Phone: 07 55 975 466 Toll Free 1300 766 121 Email: edu@youngnails.com.au Customer Services Manager Therese Kulbicki Phone: 07 55 975 466 Toll Free: Email: info@youngnails.com.au 1300 766 121 Page 37 of 37
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