Sticky Rice A Thailand PCV Magazine Feb. March. April.May 2009 What’s inside: Welcomes for 121 119ers reflect on their service Bad poetry...on purpose A Note From the Editors: Sawasdee ka, Thailand PCTs and PCVs. A special welcome to Group 121; hopefully this issue will give you a little insight as to what awaits you now that you’ve taken the plunge into the Land of Smiles. A big shout-out is also in order for Group 119, who will soon be returning to the States. May you all get into Grad school and find super-awesome jobs or Thai spouses or whatever awaits you all next. This issue of Sticky Rice may look, feel and even smell the same, but we assure you, it’s different. No, you don’t need to smell it again, just know that this edition marks the beginning of our reign over this publication after an impressive tenure from 119ers Vince George and Lisa Chuang. They’ve handed over something to truly be proud of and we will do our best to maintain the awesome awesomeness that Sticky Rice has become. Thank you all for your contributions despite the new page limit and all the other regulations we had to throw at you. We may be the ones harassing you about tense agreements and proper semi-colon usage but YOU are what makes Sticky Rice possible. Also, don’t use the word “moist.” We hate that word. Your favorite mass e-mailers, Becky and Natalie Sticky Rice Editorial Policy: 1. Sticky Rice is a 40-page publication committed to the Peace Corps’ overall mission of maintaining positive relations with the host country. 2. Sticky Rice considers itself a means for information exchange and free expression but also encourages Volunteers to exercise that freedom thoughtfully. 3. Editors of Sticky Rice may decline or, with the input of the author, edit submissions 4. Sticky Rice recognizes that the Country Director is ultimately accountable for the content of the newsletter. 5. Volunteers are asked to abstain from using profanity in Sticky Rice; any vulgar language found by the editors is subject to revision and in extreme cases, the article may be withheld from publication. Please send your inquiries to: Becky, rkratz@alumni.nmu.edu Natalie, natalie.kalish@gmail.com 2 Sticky Rice A PCV Thailand Magazine Feb.March.April.May 2009 Table of Contents “Metta” by Pete Geiger Page 4 “Thai Fidelity” by Alex Medina Page 5 “Bridge Over the Misty Chasm, A ‘First Date’ with my Landlady” by Kathleen Stocking Page 28-30 A Bunch of Pretty Pictures By Alex Medina “You Taught Me Things You Didn’t Know You Were Teaching” by Jackie Kehl Page 6 Intentionally Bad Poetry Gaysia Gaysia, “Miscommunication isn’t a Means to an End” by Becky Korpi Page 35 “Thenglish You Shouldn’t Use Back in the States” by Alex Medina, Mark Cox and David Resetar Page 11 Blog Excerpts by Anton Taruc Fun Facts by Becky Korpi Page 33 Gaysia, “A Slow but Sure Start to Gender Equality” by Alex Medina Page 34 Page 7 “Meaninglessness” by Ben Fairfield Page 8-10 “And in Closing...” by Guy Luizzi Page 31-32 Meet the Editors Page 36 Page 12 Page 13-14 Page 15 “And Now, Back to Bloggin’ with Anton” by Anton Taruc Page 16-17 119 Remembered Page 18-24 “A Pocket is What You Put in it” by Chris “Pocket” Earnhardt Page 25-26 “Gourmet the Rice Cooker Way” by Helen Lapedes “Quid Pro Quo, Youth GIG Style” by Megan Wolf Page 26 Cover Photo by Liz Heidenreich, TCCO 119 Page 27 3 Day in the Life Metta (loving kindness to all) By Pete Geiger, TCCO 120 Meanwhile, motorcycles pass my house, some going to the rice fields, others off to distant towns. A few motorcycles, garlanded with a myriad of clear plastic bags, drive through town selling their wares. You can buy anything from raw pork or beef to vegetables and even homemade donuts. Welcome group 121 and I bid a fond farewell to the most excellent group 119. I wrote this in the midst of rice season, in August, so it’s a bit dated. Now the rice fields lay fallow, dried to a crisp dull yellow, the rice stubs pointedly resisting decay. We have not seen a drop of rain since mid-November, and do not expect more until sometime in April. However, the events I describe below, minus going to the rice fields continue even during the current dry season. At about 7:00 a.m., a large sang-taew (basically a long-bedded, roofed pickup truck) passes by, filled with students going to the Christian school located 8 kilometers away. Dressed in white, they never fail to wave and say good morning (although it actually sounds like goods morning; a lot of Thais have difficulty enunciating the letter d) as I do my daily sweep of the porch. August, 2008 I live in a small village, Pak Sang, about as far east as you can go and still be in Thailand. My village of 60 or so houses borders the Mekong River the eastern boundary between Thailand and Laos. To the west stretches the endless landscape that is Issan; rice field upon rice field, with scrubby forest-like areas in between. There is little that has changed here for generations, the exceptions being TV, the internal combustion engine, and such foodstuffs as potato chips. Life is pretty simple here. Within half an hour, other students begin congregating at the small elementary school across the street. You hear their voices, shouting and laughing, as they play children games until 8:30, when the bell rings and they line up to raise the flag, sing the Thai anthem, and recite a Buddhist prayer (thus gaining merit). The village begins waking up at about 5 or 5:30, a schedule I’ve kept since living in Dallas. You can smell the neighbors’ charcoal fires, lit in order to cook sticky rice and eaten with breakfast, lunch and dinner. About half an hour after first light, a group of Asian cows are herded past my front door, on their way to pasture. Those families without a pasture will manually cut tall grasses on the wat property and carry bulging sacks of tilled foliage on their backs or motorcycles. [This schedule is slightly altered on Wednesday morning because it’s market day. Starting around 6:00, almost everyone who can walk will visit the market where a small but varied selection of prepared foods, produce, household goods, pork and cow meat lie raw on a table, and other sundry items may be purchased. Some of the more interesting items include plastic bags full of live crickets or frogs, large clear garbage bags full of tobacco (six different blends), and the inevitable lottery stand (I am asked now and then if I have dreamed of a number…this, apparently is considered good luck for picking the lottery.)] The sound of the wat gong means it’s 6:00 a.m., and it’s never off by more than a few minutes. This gong signals the monks to begin their morning alms walk. The same three monks pass my house all the time, which is interesting because monks come and go in my wat, yet there are a constant five who remain. The youngest is about 20 years old, and while most can only say good morning, he amazes me with his ability to remember much of the English I speak to him). Another gong at 7 o’clock indicates it’s time for the monks’ morning meal. I am usually out of the house by 7:30, on my way to one of several of my schools. However, there are plenty of times when school is not in session, or starts late, or is between terms, and I get to see the comings and goings of my village. I have to believe it has been this way for years, perhaps a generation or two. Not much changes, nor is there much reason for change, in the sleepy village of Pak Sang, Thailand. 4 Thai Fidelity Top Fives By Alex Medina, CBOD 120 I have five movies at my disposal at the moment. One is High Fidelity, which inspired me to create these lists. Just like in the movie, these lists are in no particular order. Top 5 Songs For What Peace Corps is Like 1. “Woo Hoo” The 5.6.7.8’s 2. “Basketcase” Green Day 3. “Welcome to the jungle” Guns and Roses 4. “New Shoes” Paolo Nutini 5. “Shiny Happy People” R.E.M. Top 5 Songs for Bpai Tiio 1. “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” Israel Kamakawio’ole 2. “Life Is A Higway” Rascal Flatts 3. “Born To Fly” Sara Evans 4. “Africa” Toto 5. “Interstate Love Song” Stone Temple Pilots Top 5 ew Year Resolutions 1. Quit Smoking 2. Stay at site for more than a week. 3. Find the child that changes my bike gears when I’m not looking. 4. Create a machine that will allow me to instantly transport without having to use karaoke/comedy movie buses. Top 5 excuses to get out of Thai-nappings 1. Expecting phone call from America 2. “Mai kao jai,” smile, shut door 3. Have food cooking 4. Peace Corps doesn’t allow attendance to political events. Of wild pig groups. 5. Thong Sia This space is available!!!! Does your organization need some advertising? Does your organization need some for FREE? Make your dreams come true via Sticky Rice! 5 “You Taught Me Things You Didn’t Know You Were Teaching” Inspirational By Jackie Kehl, TCCO 120 One of Group 120’s most experienced teachers looks back on a life lesson and how it still rings true today. “All teachers have to understand that it is not enough to just write something on the board. Even if they don’t want to teach, they should talk to their students, not just write something on the board and sit at their desks. I understand from watching you that it is important to talk to students.” I hadn’t thought of Natasha, a young teacher I met in Russia ten years ago, for a long time. I met her when I was in Barnaul, Russia, to work with teachers for a few weeks. In the afternoon, Natasha sometimes joined me for a walk. We would walk and talk. As I got on the train to leave, she handed me a card on which she had written a personal message. Part of it was “You taught me things you didn’t know you were teaching.” I was quite touched by these words. Remembering Natasha’s message, I am reminded that we don’t always know what we are teaching; what is learned may not be what we were trying to teach. Everything we do in class and out of class is a lesson. We teach by all of our actions, not just by our planned lessons. I have realized that sometimes these actions that I take for granted and do naturally, without thinking, are new to many Thai teachers and are important lessons, perhaps more important than the English lesson. Here in Thailand I sometimes feel that I am not doing the teaching I would like to be doing. It is at these times that Natasha’s message comes to me and sustains me. I also think of her message when Khun Yindee, who is fluent in English and frequently verbalizes her thoughts, shares some of her reflections on what she is learning from me. She says things like the following: Another message that sustains me is that of Mother Theresa: “We can do no great things, only small things with great love.” Often the little things we do are more important and longer lasting than the big things. So, go out and do many small things with your great love. And remember that you are teaching things you don’t know you are teaching. “I used to sit at my desk while students worked. Now, when you are not here and I sit at my desk, I think ‘Jackie walks around; so I should walk around.’ I am not comfortable sitting at my desk now. I understand that I must walk around and help the students.“ 6 Intentionally Bad Poetry Bad Poetry Three of PC Thailand’s leading wordsmiths explore the lost art of composing bad poetry with no shame. Haiku #78 This can’t be a real wedding. There is no dancing gatoey on the stage . Haiku #190 Jack , Jack Kerouac He’s on the road but without the karaoke . Haiku #56 The man grabs the glass If he doesn’t drink the beer, he can’t see the stage . Teacher ’s Lament Omg what ’s that Dirty Smelly Gross Oh it ’s me . I bike 18 km a day. It impresses no one . About the Painting on the Wall of the Hospital I would maybe be sexier If I was the kind of person who liked sunflowers. And One Haiku Elephants take up Too many syllables, geez. But I still heart them. -- Becky Korpi, TCCO 120/Sticky Rice co-editor John Roseberry, Force of Nature -- Alex Medina, CBOD 120 Goodbye Roseberry. It wasn't worth the effort. I love you so much . The Greatest President James A. Garfield is a poem unto himself. -- Chris “Pocket” Earnhardt, CBOD 120 7 Inspirational Meaninglessness By Ben Fairfield, CBOD 119 A CBOD volunteer explores the convergence of dirt and religion The beginning of his quest is not unlike a typical PCV’s first months at site. Call it IRB, community integration, community mapping, or not: “I tried cheering myself with wine, and embracing folly—my mind still guiding me with wisdom. I wanted to see what was worthwhile for men to do under heaven during the few days of their lives.” It takes just a few months to get to know the SAO. The feelings of a CBOD PCV who has just enough understanding of his assigned office also might be summed up by another cynical passage of this king: “So I hated life, because the work that is done under the sun was grievous to me. All of it is meaningless, a chasing after the wind.” Top: A finished Adobe house at Ben’s s ite. Next page: Chanaphum, agriculture teacher and beliver in the sustainability of Adobe houses. Photos by Ben Fairfield I spent my first nine months at site trying to convince people to let me build them an adobe house. It’s not an easy sell. A house made of dirt in a tropical country with monsoons? Certainly no SAO worker would buy into the idea. One would have to be crazy to attempt such a foolish task Chanaphum is said fool. An agriculture teacher at the Only one holy book has had any relevance to me as a school, he knows his soils. He understands how a CBOD volunteer. It was written probably three or four dirt mountain can stand for hundreds of years and thousand years ago by a wealthy middle-eastern king. how this “technology” can be reapplied to home conHe, too, navigated through many cultures, having hun- struction. We’re not reinventing the wheel here. dreds of wives from all of the neighboring lands he We’re just moving mountains. How hard is that to and his father had conquered. He, too, thought projects mess up? would bring him happiness and fulfillment, creating magnificent gardens and temples that were the envy of “I undertook great projects: I built houses for myself neighboring monarchs. He, too, was baffled by the and planted vineyards. I made gardens and parks limitations and obscurities of human knowledge and a and planted all kinds of fruit trees in them.” lack of meaning of his life and work. His introduction is a brief summary of 80 or so years of living: I met with Chanaphum in October to discuss my very first tangible CBOD project. We would build a “Everything is meaningless…With much wisdom small demonstration adobe hut that would serve as a comes much sorrow. The more knowledge, the more barber shop for the students. Together we drew up a grief.” proposal to submit to the principal, we co-planned and co-taught one classroom presentation, and we The problem was simple. The man knew too much. took 200 students out to the garden to get to work. Naiveté alone had sustained him at the beginning. Not anymore. It went smooth enough. After one month of agricul 8 Inspirational, continued Continued from page 8 Chanaphum, wondering what I was even doing here. “’For whom am I toiling,’ he asked, ‘and why am I depriving myself of enjoyment?’ This too is meaningless— a miserable business!” ture classes we had 1,000 bricks ready for construction, and the wooden frame had already been built. We were all set to begin stacking bricks. I would go to the SAO sports day and we’d start when I got back. For the first time in a quite a while, my smile was genuine. I dreamed of adobe at night. In my dreams I am walking through Mongolia, having my teeth fall out, raising multiple children. But no matter the subject, adobe bricks end up a part of these dreams. Even today. A full year later. “But that also proved to be meaningless. ‘Laughter,’ I said, ‘is foolish. And what does pleasure accomplish?’” “As a dream comes when there are many cares, so the speech of a fool when there are many words…All his days his work is pain and grief; even at night his mind does not rest. This too is meaningless.” Turned out that a big educational official was coming to town in three days. Chanaphum couldn’t have an unfinished house at the front gate of the school. My project, all planned out and perfect in my head (and on paper, mind you), was abducted in one day of absence. He started without me, stacking the bricks lengthwise instead of width-wise. The foundation was all wrong. The walls, each weighing about one ton, were not connected to each other. The roof was terribly insufficient. The monstrosity was destined to fall over. But the house did survive the rainy season. All my worries gave me only restless nights and headaches shared by no one else. It seemed Chanaphum’s mind did not really possess the ability to worry. Everything was “May pen ray.” He even built his own incorrect mud house to be a home for his family. Hooray for SCR. As before, I spent more hours worrying over (and fixing) that house than he did. “I hated all the things I had toiled for under the sun, because I must leave them to the one who comes after me. And who knows whether he will be a wise man or a fool? Yet he will have control over all the work into which I have poured my effort and skill under the sun. This too is meaningless.” “So then, banish anxiety from your heart and cast off the troubles of your body, for youth and vigor are meaningless.” “Whoever digs a pit may fall into it.” When the cold season’s early morning fogs arrived, my troubles evaporated. No more rains for eight months! And the house stood strong. I figured the success of the house would certainly bring more interest in adobe construction. All the skeptics would see for themselves: mud houses can survive Thailand’s crazy rainy season! I imagined a bright future for adobe construction here. Monjong’s hills covered in mud houses. All inspired by the little house that refused, against all odds, to fall over. I stopped going to the SAO. I had to put mud or waterproof plaster or shingles on the roof. Chanaphum had stopped caring. I spent Saturday mornings drilling and sawing. I was the only one who was worried about this thing. It had my name all over it. I started to hate my project. I felt abandoned by A year to the date of construction, I passed by that I spent weeks, even months trying to fix it where I could. I was terrified each time it sprinkled. I dreaded the coming rainy season, counting down the months until the house would fall over and kill one of those cute, innocent anuban kids who had classes right next door. “Everything is meaningless. All go to the same place; all come from dust, and to dust all return…and the dust returns to the ground it came from, and the spirit returns to God who gave it.” 9 Inspirational, continued Continued from page 9 A writing prompt for the next issue of Sticky Rice: old house and couldn’t stop laughing. They were tearing it down. The younger, optimistic me would have shrieked in disbelief, but, at the end of my service, I found laughter, genuine and sincere, to be my natural response. Three months of planning, 4 months of sleepless nights, 8 months of worry. All released in a perfect moment of Zen by a group of boys with sledgehammers. I suppose that old king got it right. “There is a time for everything, and a season for every activity under heaven: a time to tear down and a time to build, a time to weep and a time to laugh, a time to search and a time to give up, a time to keep and a time to throw away, a time to tear and a time to mend.” Epilogue. Yet even so, as I write this final article for Sticky Rice, I have built four adobe houses and am working on my fifth (this one will be a health spa at the Anamay). I still worry when thunderclouds come over the mountains. I still dream about mud bricks. But I also laugh when it rains, unseasonably, in the cold season, destroying two weeks’ work. I accept that dogs and children can’t keep themselves from dancing over and through my labors. Why wouldn’t these things happen? Do I really deserve to have things go my way? What else can I expect? "’Meaningless! Meaningless!’ says the Teacher. ‘Utterly meaningless! Everything is meaningless." And everybody said, “Amen.” __________________________________________ ___________________________ -All quotes are from the book of Ecclesiastes, an incredible book of wisdom that sums up the CBOD experience perfectly. -Pictures of Ben’s other adobe house projects can be seen online at http://pcthailand.wetpaint.com/page/adobe+house Your biography in six words. Not just any six words; the six words that, when they join forces, describe you with such amazing brevity that it stops your heart within your chest. Good luck! Do you see awesome things on a regular basis? We don’t, so send them to Sticky Rice, fool! 10 Thenglish Language Thenglish You Shouldn’t Use Back in the States By Alex Medina, Mark Cox and special guest David Resetar, CBOD 120 Editor’s note: Thenglish -- noun -- the odd but amusing language that develops when Thai and English are combined. For the benefit of Group 121, I have also added a translation key. You’re welcome. Translations: With Group 119 volunteers close to going home, here is a list of phrases to avoid in order to make your integration to American culture much easier: Maew: cat Ma: dog (or horse if you use the wrong tone) It’s really raining maews and mas out there! Ron aharn: restaurant Yu tii nai?: Where is it? Ron aharn “Hooters” yu tii nai? Shot the rabbit: peed the bed. Honey, get a towel. Little Eustace just shot the rabbit in his bed again. Pom: I (male), polite Di-chan: I (female), polite Ruu suk: Feel Krap: Polite particle, male Ka: Polite particle, female Pom/Di-chan ruu suk sexually inadequate krap/ka. How about them appuns?? Rage Against the Machine mi panha prathet Saharat. Appun: Apple Dtam tamadaa, pom mai gin lao. Take my word for it, Officer. Mi panha: to have a problem Prathet Saharat: United States of America Gaan bplian bleeng rao mi samat chuua daai. Obaamaaaa! Dtam tama daa: Usually Pom mai gin lao: I don’t drink whiskey I’m all OTAP-ped out, baby. Gaan bplian bleeng rao mi samat chuua daai: Change we can believe in. I’ll take the Quarter-Pounder krap. OTAP-ped out: A clever hybrid of OTOP (One Tambon One Product) and the common American phrase “tapped out.” 11 119 Reflection And in Closing... By Guy Luizzi, TCCO 119 Considering that the new Sticky Rice writing standards no longer condone cuss words. I will keep it short. For the 121’s, welcome to a great, at times difficult, country and job that will make you dig deeper towards your personal understanding, dedication and tolerance. For 120’s, best of luck to you all, you’ve been here for a year. You know what is up. Though the second year goes by faster! 8) Having better health care. 7) Not worrying about America’s fast pace and issues like fluctuating gas prices. 6) Somehow living a pretty nice life making a bit over 2,500 dollars a year. 5) Getting together with PC buddies (America is MUCH larger than Thailand). 4) Thai holidays and the accompanying feasts. 3) Thai food and fruits. 2) My students and counterparts. 1) My host family. With my COS looming in 80 days. Worrying about when that day comes. “Where am I going to live?” “What am I going to drive?” “What am I going to do about money?” It hit me that reentry/reverse culture shock might just suck after all. It also made me think about what I most look forward to when I return to the United States after two years. Here is my top ten: *otable Mention: The “YOU, YOU, my friend, where you go” from Thai tourist areas’ tuk-tuk drivers. “I am serious about crashing Going in two years ago with the idea that the most trying, weird your place and getting a free and totally out-of-my-comfortzone moments would provide the tour” best stories and bragging rights of my service. I look back at it all with a smile in the land of them. 121s, your service is what YOU make it, so buckle up because there is no rollercoaster better than this one. 10) Watching the Comedy -- Guy’s last pull-quote. Channel and HBO (pendHope it was a good one. ing I have a place to live). 9) Going to comedy clubs. 8) Driving (pending I have a car to do so). 7) Eating sandwiches everyday with cheese. 120s, the second year does not get any less interest6) Wines. ing, it is busy, and it is quick! 119s, I am serious 5) Laundry becoming a whole lot easier. about crashing your place and getting a free tour. 4) Real libraries (no offense to the PC lounge). 3) Crashing RPCV’s states and asking for a tour and Admin Staff, I will give you my return address for free housing (West coasters and D.C. residents bethat “Best Volunteer Ever” award. It has been an ware). honor to work with this organization, country and 2) Celebrating holidays with family and friends you all, thank you! American style. 1) Going to Grad school (pending I can pay for it). What’s Your Experience? *otable Mention: Watching American football Then I got to the reasoning of what I will miss most about the Peace Corps in Thailand. My top ten: Submit to Sticky Rice. 10) The Thai customs of saving face and not getting rattled over trivial things. 9) The Thai “graing jai,” although you have to pay your due share of it as well. 12 Blog Excerpts “I was born upon thy banks river My blood flows in thy stream And thou meanderest forever At the bottom of my dream” - Henry David Thoreau Blog Excerpt From Anton Taruc, TCCO 119 Such travel was fun and exciting. I’ve always thought of rivers as an apt metaphor for my desire to travel—the river’s flow akin to the part of my soul that longs to constantly be on the move. So it comes as no surprise that in the places I’ve been fortunate to travel to, I’ve always been drawn to rivers—be it the Mekong or the Thames; the Kwai or the Seine— and I’ve spent hours sitting by their banks enjoying a book or a beer or both. I enjoy rivers for the sense of contentment that comes with sitting by them—few things in this world are more calming than a river’s flow—and also for the sense of restlessness that it stirs in me. After all, one of the most fascinating things about a river is that a river never ever really stays put; it is always headed somewhere. And it is this—the promise of seeing what is beyond the bend—that touches that part of my soul that longs to travel, inciting it to seek adventure and excitement. And yet, as I’ve come to appreciate rivers more, I’ve noticed a change in my general attitude towards travel. The excitement has not wavered nor has the longing for adventure (this, I pray, will remain as constant as a river’s eventual journey to sea) but just as I’ve taken a river’s flow as a metaphor for my wanderlust, a river’s ability to bend and shift—I’ve seen stretches of the Mekong dry enough to traverse by foot and sections where I would not dare jump in—has come to represent my evolving understanding of what “traveling” truly means. But it was also shallow. I recall that after a backpacking trip to Europe, I came back and told people I loved Barcelona. Looking back, I ask myself: What about Barcelona did I love? Did I even get to know Barcelona? I was there for five days and I doubt I met a single person from Barcelona. I had a wonderful time certainly…but a time that could have been had in any of the other cities I visited in Europe—the only difference being the monuments that I saw…monuments that while exclusive to Barcelona, were not in themselves Barcelona. I realize, looking back, that I did not get to know Barcelona at all. Lately however, I’ve learned to appreciate staying in a place a little longer or at least staying in a place long enough to truly be there. I admit that such sort of traveling can at times be mundane and highlights are few and far between. But the highlights do come and more often than not, they have as much to do with the simple aspects of life as they do with the grand…and they are just as memorable. I know I’ve been excited about things here in Thailand that I would otherwise have taken for granted—or wouldn’t have stopped to appreciate—when I was backpacking in Europe. Things like nuances in culture, in styles of dress, in social norms, etc—things that I’ve only been able to appreciate after being in Thailand for a while. So I daresay that there is indeed a charm about staying in a place long enough to know it—if not completely at least intimately. Like a farmer might say he knows a field for instance; or a ranger, a forest; or a citizen, a city; or a hiker, a mountain. Or like a person might know a river. “I’ve known For a while, I loved travel for the sheer adventure of it. rivers” Langston Hughes once wrote. The intimacy I enjoyed the adrenaline rush of hopping on a train or he goes on to describe—being lulled to sleep by the plane, seeing a new place, and then moving on. I loved Congo; sitting by the Nile and building pyramids by the idea of waking up in a new city (or country) and it; watching the change of hue by the Mississippi — not knowing for certain what time it was…or what day suggest an element of waiting…and staying…and it was. This sort of travel was exciting, fueled by sto- watching. At the end of the poem, he exclaims “My ries of rushing for trains and sleeping in stations, and soul has grown deep like the river.” meeting new people everyday; of seeing pictures where I stood by one famous monument in one city My experience in Thailand, where I’ve slowly imwearing the very same thing I wore in a monument of mersed myself in a way of life that I could have another since I was seeing them both in the same day. easily bypassed has added depth to my being and 13 Blog Excerpt has broadened my perspective. Whenever I find myself longing for the excitement of experiencing new places at a faster pace, I pause and take into account what I am able to experience: the unfolding of the rice season, spending hours sitting by a hammock alongside cow herders and rice farmers and learning about their lives, being able to have meals with villagers, learning about their conceptions (and misconceptions) of America, and so much more. And most nights I find that my cup is filled. On the other nights where my cup might not necessarily be filled— where homesickness, or boredom, or a lack of a sense of purpose sink in, I just try to remain thankful for being given the opportunity to see the world in such a different way and pray that the river bends tomorrow. My desire to see the world is strong—perhaps stronger than it has ever been. But now, the river that meanderest at the bottom of my dreams—the very fountainhead of my wanderlust—happens to be a wiser, deeper one. 02/01/2007 Some people think most clearly when going for a hike, or meditating in a temple, or during a nice long drive. I think most clearly when I am in the shower. It hasn’t been so easy however in Thailand, since it’s kind of difficult to relax and let your mind wander during a cold bucket shower. But last night I had a sudden thought and I just ran away with it. And it’s funny because the thing that inspired it was the very thing that has made my bath time reflections a little more challenging: the bucket shower. The Peace Corps is like a bucket shower. You are hot and sticky and know that a bucket shower is something you want. It gets to a point that you know it is something you NEED and you know it would refresh you in the way you want and need to be refreshed. Some people just jump right in. Some people decide that while it’s a good idea, they’ll wait for the nice warm shower that SHOULD come one day. After all, there is always deodorant. Some decide to bend over and just wet their hair...it will make them look like they took the shower. For those who do decide to take the shower, it usually takes a process. First, you wet your hair a bit Splash some water on your feet 14 Pat your back a little bit with wet hands and maybe your neck Put some water behind the knees Just getting ready...for the big one. And finally, you jump right in! You take a huge scoop of water and BAM!...you let it just drop on you. At that moment, time seems to stop. Your heart beats faster and faster. You are freezing! You are already wet so you figure, “what the heck” and BAM, another big one and yet another. You’d figure three big ones in that it should feel easier and a lot less cold but no... each one still sets you shivering. Then another one and another one.... and you begin to feel the difference... Its NOT necessarily less cold nor is it easier but you feel GOOD and you feel more AWAKE and more FRESH. You start lathering up the soap and rubbing the shampoo on your hair and at this point you know you are almost done. Maybe at this time you actually look at the water and notice that its not the cleanest water in the world. A few bugs floating around...maybe a few strands of hair that clearly are not yours...and it can be pretty gross. You know you could stop there...maybe throw one more bucket or two to wash out the soap and shampoo. Or, you could choose to realize that millions of people bathe in even dirtier water. You could realize that millions of people don’t even get the chance to take a bucket shower. You could realize that millions of people who DO have the opportunity for a bucket shower decide to stick to the deodorant. And when you think this way, you might realize that while bugs and hair in the water kinda suck, they won’t kill you (and you also sort of begin to admit to yourself that the water feels pretty darn good) So you throw in another one and now the soap and shampoo are gone and you could end the shower but now you REALLY like the water- you like how ALIVE each new splash makes you feel so you throw a few more before finally reaching for the towel. As you dry yourself, you realize the shower actually went by so quickly. You probably spent more time getting ready for the first big splash than you did the entire shower. And as you dry off you can’t stop noticing how refreshed you feel. And while deodorant may have made you smell just as nice without having to go through the shower...YOU KNOW IT WOULD NOT HAVE FELT QUITE AS GOOD. Fun Facts Just for Fun By Becky Korpi, TCCO 120/Sticky Rice co-editor Compiled and submitted for your approval; things you never knew about 120ers Kelly Beach and Mark Cox Fun facts about Mark Cox Fun facts about Kelly Beach * She would like to be an extra in the * Sometimes his name is Michael “High School Musical” movies * He bowled a 71 once * She enjoys consuming champoos and berry tea * His dad shoots coyotes(!) * Her neighbor “gets her” * He dreams of one day having two blue-eyed, sandy-haired babies * Taken out of context, her quotes are named Cletus and Eunice. mysterious. I can’t remember what “I save my tiara for better things than * He is “in a relationship” with the golf” was about. Hardy Boys and it’s “complicated” * She is pro-saying-rude-things-while * He can recommend a great place to faking-a-cough. For example, *cough- eat breakfast in Chiang Mai, but wowyou’reuglycough* sometimes the actual name of the restaurant eludes him so you have to * She is completely afraid of frogs use your head to find it. I personally enjoyed “Kona’s Organic Blah * She does not know the difference Blah,” however. between Alec’s “funky jazz hands” and “massage hands” * Melissa Etheridge is from his hometown. You know, that woman * Her facial expressions before you with such fabulous hits as “Come to even say anything often make you for- Levenworth, Kansas.” get what you were going to say in the first place. * He taught me how to love a woman, and how to scold a child. 15 And ow, Back to Bloggin’ with Anton Blog Excerpt From Anton Taruc, TCCO 119 04/12/2007 miniscule in comparison to the risk of snipers and IED's. No bomb that ever burned/ Shatters the human spirit Since I've started writing about my experiences in Thailand, I have learned to appreciate the writing of other people who, like me, are also away from home and their loved ones. And while I am aware that words can never fully capture the experience of living in a foreign country under circumstances different from home, I'd like to think that the stories we share- through blogs, emails, and letters- provide a decent enough picture of the lives we lead. After all, I believe that the main reason we share our stories in the first place is so our loved ones, those we have left behind, get to stay connected to us- even if only through our writing. It is this belief I think that stirred my emotions when I came across NEWSWEEKS' April 2nd cover story, Voices of the Fallen: The Iraq War in the Words of America's Dead. My single greatest discomfort is the heat of Thailand and the humidity that comes with living in a tropical country. I'm not sure what the heat is like in Iraq but I know it's pretty hot. Plus our troops can go weeks without a shower while carrying loads of heavy equipment. I worry about the sanitation of my food. But I don't have to worry about fighting a battle with an upset stomach. I wake up in the morning and say that "today may be the day that the language breakthrough occurs." Our troops wake up with the awareness that- as American soldier Travis Youngblood wrote in a letter- "any day I'm here could be the day I die." I wake up in the morning and say that “today may be the day the language breakthrough occurs.” Our troops wake up with the awareness that...“any day I’m here could be the day I die” "Nope," I told myself, "I would never understand Over the past three months, I have written about my life in Thailand, of squat toilets and bucket showers; of language miscommunications and exotic dishes. I have written about being a Peace Corps Volunteer- an experience that has been among the most intense experiences of my life. Recently, I read the letters in Newsweek, written by men and women, many younger than myself who, like me, are far away from home and loved ones and who, like me, are also experiencing some pretty intense things. And while I could relate to the homesickness and the desire to stay connected with loved ones through writing, and while I could understand what it's like to miss home, I realized that I would NEVER understand the intensity of what they were going through. Never. what they went through and I will never understand what the other troops are going through right now." And so I kept reading about the horrible situation people my age are going through and I read about the causes of death (humvee overturned, IED explosion, drowned, killed by sniper while on patrol) and I read about the ages of those killed (21,19, 26, 22, 21) and I found myself in tears. But I tried to anyway. I tried thinking of what I go through on a daily basis and I attempted to magnify it if only to gain some perspective and understand what the soldiers were going though a little better. In the end, I realized it was impossible. As I said earlier, I have learned to appreciate the writing of people far away from home. More importantly, I learned to appreciate the writers themselves. People have a general idea of the Peace Corps and what life as a voulunteer is like. I did too. My single greatest daily fear is that my neighbor's dog will chase me as I bike past his house... a fear But now, as I read through blogs, I am aware that 16 Blog Excerpt Continued from page 16 every volunteer has a name and his/her own unique experiences. Every single volunteer has people he/she misses and people he/she wishes to stay connected to. As I read the letters in Newsweek, I felt the exact same way for our troops. While I have always been supportive of our soldiers and have included them in my prayers, I always thought of them collectively. Reading their letters and recognizing the common desire to simply stay connected, the desire to let a loved one know they are missed, the desire to check on things at home, made me realize how each troop is an individual as well with his/her own set of unique experiences. It made me realize the humanity of every soldier. So while I may never understand what they are going through, I can certainly focus on what we share- our humanity and our love for the people we left behind. And just as I drew on my experiences here in an attempt to gain perspective into the difficulties they were going through, perhaps I could do the same in terms of their joys. So while I may never understand what they’re going through, I can certainly focus on what we share -- our humanity and our love for the people we left behind. For as my struggles and worries are petty compared to what they face, perhaps the things that bring me joy are things they appreciate even more. And the thing that has brought me the most joy- other than the work I am doing in my village- has been hearing from home. Nothing brightens my day more than a phone call from my family or a letter from Caitlin or a Facebook message from an old friend. And if these things can make a person who worries about being chased by dogs smile, imagine what it can do for people surrounded by the horrors of war. Every so often, I also receive random words of encouragement. I've had people tell me that what I'm doing is something they wish they cold be doing. I've had people tell me that they are very impressed that I would choose to give two years of my life to do such work. These things definitely help keep my spirit alive. I wonder if our troops receive similar messages as well. I sure hope so because what I am doing and whatever sacrifices I'm making is nothing compared to theirs. So now a favor. If any of you reading this happen to know someone in the armed forces, please send them a message. Be it a cousin, a friend, an acquaintance even...send them a message. Send a message out of the blue to say hello and that you are thinking of them. If possible, even send me an email address of a soldier you know and I will say hello as well. And also, let us not take things for granted. As I read the letters, I could not stop thinking about the people I loved the most. These letters celebrated how human our troops were and what makes us human is that we are capable of loving. No matter how horrible the situation described in the letter, they did not fail to end it with a "I miss you" or an "I love you. " I end this with some stanzas from Orwell taken from his essay "Looking Back On the Spanish War" I altered it a bit. Good luck go with you American soldier But luck is not for the brave What would the world give back to you Any less than you gave Between the shadow and the ghost Between the white and the red Between the bullet and the lie Where would you hide your head For where is Travis Youngblood For where is Kenneth Ballard For where is Trevor Aston The earthworms know where they are Your name and your deeds were forgotten Before your bones were dry And the lie that slew you is buried Under a deeper lie But the one thing I saw in your letters No power can disinherit No bomb that ever burned Shatters the human spirit. 17 119 Remembered: a delightful smattering of who they are and what their future plans entail. 119 Remembered ame: Matthew Smith Hometown: Bend, Oregon Program: CBOD Site: Chiang Muan, Phayao Thai nickname: Mak (just because some Thai people could not pronounce my name right) Favorite Thai food: Nam Prick Aung. It's a Northern Thai dish that I will miss dearly Favorite place visited: Chiang Mai, just to meet up with my PC friends Future plans: Go back home and help my parents finish their house. Then, who knows! Favorite Thai phrase: Mai pen rai, this is my favorite just because it goes with the people and culture so well. Words of wisdom: Try not to get frustrated, it will all come together if you are patient enough. ame: Lisa Chuang Hometown: Olympia, Washington Program: TCCO Site: Omkoi, Chiang Mai Thai nickname: Kon Awesome (Bestowed by Becky Korpi) Favorite Thai food: Gai Yang--It reminds me of my mom's Asian bbq, which was one of my favorite foods back home. Favorite place visited: Mae Hong Son Future plans: Study for my Ph.D in communication Favorite Thai phrase: "Sang" meaning...english doesn't really have a word for this, but "bored to tears" may come close. Words of wisdom: "That's the way it is, and then you die." 18 119 Remembered ame: Vincent George Hometown: Philadelphia, PA Program: CBOD Site: Nakhon Si Thammarat Thai ickname: Win (Many Thais have a hard time pronouncing the "V") Favorite Thai food: Som Tam (extra spicy) w/ a Beer Singh, this combination gets me real chill Favorite place visited: Krabi, has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world Future plans: I'll let you know as soon as I found out myself. Favorite thai phrase: Mi fan lau ree-yung? It still cracks me up that I've been asked this everyday, several times a day, for over two years now, in every locale I've been to here in Thailand. Doing the arithmetic, I can accurately say that I've received this question roughly 3,000 times since I've been here. Words of wisdom: Two years can fly by before you even know it. ame: Scott Hajek Hometown: Burlington, North Carolina Program:TCCO Site: Si Mueang Mai, Ubon Ratchathani Thai ickname: Rang Nok (bird's nest, a type of drink that has a brand named Scotch) Favorite Thai food: Kung Ten (Dancing Shrimp) because nothing tickles your innards like this dish! Favorite place visited: Chiang Mai Future plans: Travel, spend time with family back in NC, go on to graduate school for linguistics Favorite thai phrase: Hua laan dai wii (Experience is a comb that fate gives a man when his hair is all gone.) Words of wisdom: Don't tell your community that ghosts come visit you at night and give you lottery numbers. If you do, for heaven's sake, don't actually give them numbers. They just might spend a ton on those numbers, lose, and be bitter with you that they didn't work. 19 119 Remembered ntext when taking pictures...can be replaced with "Pepsi" or "Cheese", but obviously doesn't have the same reaction!...It translates as "sore [female parts]" 2. "Bi Ying Gadii" - Literal translation = "Shoot the rabbit"...Translation = "Take a [pee]" 3. "Lamoke" - Translation = "Dirty mind" 4. "Som nam na" - Translation = "Serves you right!" 5. "Sueng Dueng" - Northern thai dialect meaning "really, really STUPID!" (I heard this ALOT!) Words of wisdom: DO IT! & Always say "Yes!" ame: Brian Fries Hometown: Oak Hill, Virginia Program: TCCO Site Mae Chai, Phayao province Thai ickname: 1. "Superman" 2. "Captain America" 3. "Giant" 4. "Brain" (Thai mispelling of "Brian") 5. "Awl Dee" (Thai for "travels well") Favorite Thai food: 1. "Nam Prik Ong" (Minced pork, onions, chilis, garlic in a spicy tomoto paste) - Because it's the BEST food this side of Bangkok when my host mom cooks it up (I have witnesses!) 2. " Glui Tort" (Fried baby bananas) - Baby bananas are INCREDIBLE alone, and anything deep fried is the BOMB.COM! 3. "Makhaue Pow" (Grilled eggplant) - In Thai slang, [you'll have to figure out by yourself!] 4. "Patt Boo" (Stir-fried crab with eggs and spring onions) - It's better than [MAKIN’ WHOOPEE]!! Favorite place visited: Off-peak, fresh powder skiing with my boys (Gabe, Garrett & Pete) at Hakuba Happo ski resort in Nagano, Japan!! Future plans: After COS - Back-packing throughout Cambodia, Laos & Vietnam with the "down-on-hisluck" Guy Liuzzi (and anybody who wants to join), and scrapping funds together for another ski getaway to Hakkaido, Japan with Pete "Ham 'n Cheese" Rumbach. Then a Summer Clerical Internship with the US Department of State in Washington DC, then working as a residential counselor in an Emotionally Disturbed Center in northern Virginia. Favorite thai phrase: 1. "[Not fit to print]" 20 Congratulations, Brian Fries, for submitting not only the longest biography but also the most obscene one (prior to our editing, of course)! -- Love, Becky and Natalie ame: John Roseberry Hometown: Hopkinsville, KY Program: TCCO Site: Muang Yang, Nakhon Ratchsima Favorite Thai food: Sticky Rice/Roasted Chicken Favorite place visited: Chang Mai Future plans: Grad School Words of wisdom: Good luck 119 Remembered ame: Peter Rumbach Hometown: Jasper, Indiana Program: TCCO Site: Banpet, Chaiyaphum Thai ickname: Dtang Thai - Cantelope Favorite Thai food: Pumpkin Curry - because it's so hard to find at my site, so it's always a treat to get it Favorite place visited: Chiang Khan - a lazy, little river town in Loei province Future plans: Snowboarding for an entire season! then, grad school/teaching... Favorite thai phrase: Dtid lom - literally, stuck to the breeze or having such a good time you don't want to leave Words of wisdom: Like I heard from a previous PCV...if you're ever in a situation and feel like leaving, wait 15 minutes and see what happens. I've found that you get to know people better when you give waiting a chance. Actual picture unavailable Actual picture unavailable ame: Andrew "monk" Webb Hometown: Cincinnati, Ohio Program: TCCO Site: Kantharalak, Si Sa Ket Thai ickname: King Kong or Ting Tong Favorite Thai food: Sticky Rice Favorite place visited: Chiang Mai Future plans: Study Tibetan in Darjeeling, India for 9 months and then reach Enlightenment Favorite thai phrase: Telling a Thai to Jai yin yin (relax) Words of wisdom: You you you, no serious! ame: Kellie Zeitner Hometown: Billings, MT Program: CBOD Site: Santisuk, Nan Thai nickname: Faa - Blue Favorite Thai food: Somtam & sticky rice Favorite place visited: Koh Phi Phi Future plans: Traveling around S.E. Asia then who knows Favorite Thai phrase: Mai kow jai - I don't understand can get you out of a lot of things! Words of wisdom: Live every moment! 21 119 Remembered ame: Maria Tursi Hometown: Fircrest, WA Program: TCCO Site: Sanom, Surin Thai ickname: Host family called me Bua (lotus flower) but no one else Favorite Thai food: Ka pow gai sai kai dow (spicy basil chicken with egg) Favorite place visited: Vangvieng, Laos Future plans: Will travel to England to visit friends and then find a job either at home or abroad Favorite Thai phrase: Yahk ruu yahk hen, curious Words of wisdom: Try to let most things roll off your back (if that fails and they still call you fat, run a marathon)! ame: Colin Thompson Hometown: Arlington, Texas Program: TCCO Site: Kanchanaburi Thai ickname: "Lin"- it's actually short for Colin...but I just found out, after 20 months in country, that "Lin" is actually a name for women, thus explaining the large Ka Toey following I have at site. Favorite Thai food: Masaman Curry. Nothing tops a nice coconut milk curry over your choice of...wait for it, wait for it...chicken and/or pork. Favorite place visited: Sunrise Tacos. Between Soi 12 and 14, Sukhumvit. Also located in the food hall at Siam Paragon. Future plans: Kicking it in China for a few weeks with the familia. Free climbing Mayan ruins in the Yucatan in May and June. Alpine-style ascent of the Eiger, also known as Die Weisse Spinne by their Swiss patriots, during the fall. I was also thinking of starting a small clam breeding venture in Newfoundland. The Northern quahog is in in particular popularity at the moment throughout a range of cuisines and the time is now as the aquaculture isn't nearly as difficult to control as their oyster cousins. Time permitting of course. Favorite Thai phrase: "Same Same...but different.” This saying is applicable in certain bargaining situations pertaining to any vended object (be it a pair of sunglasses or a T-shirt) that appears similar in both size and shape but is slightly different to the untrained eye. Words of wisdom: We live as we dream, alone. --Joseph Conrad Actual picture unavailable 22 119 Remembered ame: Ben Fairfield Hometown: Tuolumne, California Program: CBOD Site: Monjong, Chiang Mai Thai ickname: None Favorite Thai food: Corn. It's got fiber. Favorite place visited: Doi Intanon. Highest mountain in Thailand. Future plans: Make a big picture book and go to grad school for anthropology Favorite Thai phrase: Just one word: WONG WIAN. We all cracked up over this in PST and none of the ajaans got the joke. Words of wisdom: “Life sucks, and then you die." -Scott Okamoto (and many others, i'm sure) ame: Jason Briggs Hometown: Clarinda, IA Program: CBOD Site: Lansaka, Nakhon Si Thammarat Thai nickname: Jay Favorite Thai food: Gun Pad Phet Sator (shrimp with chilli & bitter bean) Favorite place visited: Krabi, Singapore, Angkor Wat Future plans: Graduate school, J-O-B Favorite Thai phrase: Nua noi, naam mak (Little bit of beef, lots of water) Words of wisdom: Look out for falling durian. Actual picture unavailable ame: Sheila “Smash” Hershey Hometown: Manheim, Pennsylvania Program: TCCO Site: Uthai Thani Thai ickname: She-ra Favorite Thai food: Spicy Papaya Salad, Thai style Favorite place visited: Tam Lod, Meh Hong Son. Future plans: Travel for a while, then head home and figure it out from there. Favorite Thai phrase: Jing jing, seriously. Words of wisdom: Do what you love. 23 119 Remembered ame: Bekah Douglass Hometown: Milton, Florida Program: TCCO Site: Khon Kaen Thai ickname: Booa -- lotus Favorite Thai food: Somtom lao...with fish sauce and as spicy as you can make it...I’m Issan Favorite place visited: Anton’s site because it is so great. Just ask him:) Future plans: Not sure, maybe stick around for a while because my Thai needs more work Favorite Thai phrase: Roan My...Are you hot. Are you kidding?? It’s Thailand! Words of wisdom: Never go a day without finding one thing positive Actual picture unavailable ame: Melissa Dorso Hometown: Burlington, VT Program: TCCO Site: Chanthaburi Thai ickname: Muai (little Chinese girl) Favorite Thai Food: Durian, because there's nothing else like it! Favorite place visited: Tie between Koh Samet and PCV sites in Isaan Future Plans: Spend time with Oolong and find a job in a bakery Favorite Thai Phrase: Bep diao (just a second, just a minute, just a few hours) Words of Wisdom: In your efforts to be a good volunteer and a riap roy member of your community, don't forget to be yourself! ame: Tara Hixson Hometown: Rapid City, South Dakota Program: TCCO Site: Pua, Nan. Thai nickname: Kru Naam: water teacher because Tara means river in Northern Thai Favorite Thai food: Tham Makuwa : Mashed Egg Plant. It looks like baby pooh but tastes awesome. Favorite place visited: My counterpart/best friend's kitchen. I had so many great and unusual experiences in that kitchen and it's the place I felt most at home…I'm going to miss it! Future plans: Travel and avoid a real job via grad school in England. Favorite Thai phrase: Gin Yut Yut ru fun ja toke: You better stuff your face or your teeth are going to fall out! Words of wisdom: "You’re much more Thai than you were yesterday." 24 A Pocket is What You Put in it Inspirational Again By Chris “Pocket” Earnhardt, CBOD 120 Welcome Group 121!! Here is the ultimate challenge of Peace Corps: Everything happens, and it doesn’t stop happening. What that means is that you will often feel like you don’t have time to recuperate. Life is going to be full of good stress and bad stress, and it won’t let up for a while (maybe not even a full year). When I joined the Peace Corps, I was long since ready for heat, sleeping on the dirt, eliminating in ditches, and being eaten alive by various sizes of wildlife. Heck, I was joining the Peace Corps. But I was smarter than that. I was also ready to be speaking a different language, changing or compromising some of my lesser held values to fit in with a culture, and doing a lot of hard work. Well, I don’t sleep in the dirt, eliminate in ditches, or do very much hard work, and still, this is the most difficult job I have ever had. 1. You need to be aware during training (and later during service) that you and your fellow volunteers are under immense amounts of stress, and not just bad stress, but good stress too. You are meeting wonderful people, realizing for the first time how amazing it is that you are in Thailand, learning a new language, and living with a homestay family. These are all great and beautiful things, but they are stressful. This means, among other things, that you will want to extend a forgiving nature towards your fellow volunteers, as they are under stress too and will do things that human beings just do when they are tired and something bothers them or goes wrong. Imagine you are in America, and you present to your local mayor an idea which will help many students have a much better shot at college. Your mayor takes you to the local school, drops you off in front of a classroom full of wide-eyed students, and leaves, expecting you to teach them Spanish. That is stressful. But what do you do? You finish up, and then take a breather at your favorite coffee shop or just talk it out with whomever happens to be around. In Thailand, you go home to your homestay (who are most often wonderful, caring people), and you make cultural mistakes and you tell them you like bananas. Then, you are swarmed by mosquitoes as you try to spray your whole body at once with cold water to keep them away. Then, you lay down for a pleasant night’s rest and stick to your bed, sweating until dawn and then sweating some more. You wake up to a breakfast of rice and eggs (with fermented fish sauce, yum). Not one of these things by themselves is going to hurt you, but they mean that you are in an almost constant state of stress. This will fatigue you, and that is okay. But I tell you this for a few reasons. 25 2. Such an environment will cause people to reevaluate themselves. It will be the case that strong, capable people will feel impotent; friendly, outgoing people will feel agoraphobic; and patient, flexible people will feel like raging tree stumps. It will seem this way, despite the fact that you are growing stronger, more flexible, more patient, and more friendly every day. The reality is that all the volunteers are great people who are expecting a lot (if not too much) out of themselves. In fact, they are expecting to accomplish more than they would in a job in the States while being in a whole new culture. I want to repeat that, because it just changed how I view my time here: we expect, from ourselves, that we accomplish more in an entirely different culture than we would in a job we have on our own home turf. 3. This is not temporary. This constant stress can and often does last for at least the first year (even during the most boring parts). So I write this to let you know that you are not alone. Insanity has historically been defined by how a person behaves or feels in relation to the majority of his/her society. Well, I welcome you to the Peace Corps. We have our own culture, and we tolerate quite a bit more “freaking out” than your average American. For a period of months, I was wondering if this was bad for me. If I was actually becoming a worse person (see point 2 above). And then I called my More Inspirational Continued from page 25 Gourmet, the Rice Cooker Way by Helen Lapedes, TCCO 120 fellow PCVs. I told them about what was going on, and they all knew exactly how I felt. 4. Most importantly, you are not alone. There is something to be said for a person who can travel half-way around the world for no pay to do a job with more pitfalls than he/she could possibly ever imagine. You will find problems that I’ve never even heard of. But you will also find your places, persons, and things which provide solace. I don’t think there is a save-all solution to the problem I have mentioned. Banana Bread INGREDIENTS: I surprisingly found everything at the grocery/general store at my site except for the butter. * 2 cups all-purpose flour * 1 teaspoon baking soda * 1/4 teaspoon salt * 1/2 cup butter * 3/4 cup brown sugar * 2 eggs, beaten I know that practice makes perfect, which applies to * 2 1/3 cups mashed overripe bananas (or less depending on how dense you want it to be. I have used stress management, and that means getting out and meeting your communities. The more you do it, the as little as a cup, and it is still tasty!) more normal it is. I know that keeping your mind and body occupied helps shield you from boredom, DIRECTIONS: so read and exercise and talk. But it is, ultimately, 1. Lightly grease the rice cooker. the true challenge of Peace Corps: to be hit with something new everyday, to be phenomenally bored 2. In a large bowl, combine flour, baking soda and salt. In a separate bowl, cream together butter and for long stretches, and to end it all saying, “I did it, brown sugar. Stir in eggs and mashed bananas until and that is good enough for me.” well blended. Stir banana mixture into flour mixture; So, if you are feeling like you just can’t take it any- stir just to moisten. Pour batter into rice cooker. more and the world is going to end and you want to 3. Push the lever of the rice cooker down. When it cry and cats and dogs are living together and you are pops up again, wait a minute or two and then push it going to go home, then call Group 120, and I can al- down again. Repeat until bread is cooked. You can tell by putting a toothpick in the middle. When it most guarantee that we will tell you we know excomes out clean, the bread is ready. actly how you feel. And that, Group 121, is just 4. Take the liner out of the rice cooker. Let bread fine. cool for about 10 minutes, and then turn it out onto a wire rack (or plate...) Tips for baking in a rice cooker: ~ Experiment with how much batter you cook at a time. I have a very small rice cooker and can only make small batches or the bread won’t cook all the way through and will burn on the bottom ~ Also experiment with timing, how long you wait to push the lever of the rice cooker down again as well as how many times you do it. ~ Don’t be afraid to jam the lever on the rice cooker if it refuses to stay down. I usually use a towel. 26 Youth Activities at Site Quid Pro Quo, Youth GIG Style By Megan Wolf, TCCO 120 As part of the Youth Development GIG’s effort to let all of the Peace Corps Thailand community know what volunteers are doing with youth at their sites (and also because Renee Schlatter said I had to), I sat down with 120er Dale Yurovich during MSC to discuss his activities with youth. Lounging poolside at the Royal River, we talked about how he began working with youth, and where he’s taking them. Megan: First, and perhaps most importantly, what would you like your super hero identity to be for this session? Dale: Oh, that’s easy—Superman. Megan: So, what are you doing with youth? Dale: Besides teaching 250 of them every week, I am managing an English club. I teach them how to read, and I teach them some basic phrases for them to use. I am also teaching them about numbers, banking, the operation of a market, and about basic economics. I’ve kind of established it as a little city, although we haven’t yet established a government. There is money, which the students can earn and put in our bank. They each have accounts, which garner interest. There are markets, where they can buy things with their money (the “money” is reward stickers that I give for homework, participation, and games). independent thinking. As far as the mini-economy goes, it’s up to them. It depends on how creative they can get with the goods and services they come up with, and if they can sell them. They’re limited only by their imagination, which is along the lines of what we’re learning about here at MSC. Megan: What ages are you working with? Boys or girls? Dale: The club is for Pratom 4-6 students. About 75% are girls, because the girls seem to be a little more mature than the boys and they find it a little more interesting. Megan: Do you do this alone, or do you have a counterpart? Dale: Yes, my counterpart is an English ajaan at one of the nearby schools. I helped out at her school for a few months, and then when I thought of starting an English club, I approached her for her help. She helps with communication, language, and support; I lead the lessons. Megan: What were the biggest barriers you faced in starting the club? Dale: Well, we had a great location, my co-teacher did a good job of spreading the word, and so barriers were minimal. I like to think it was because the Random Royal River guest, reading pool sign: Ex- students liked me and wanted to study with me. I cuse me, what does it mean by “You must shower be- get mobbed every time I go to school. fore entering pool?” Barriers in starting club? great location, she did a Megan: Ummmm…. good job of spreading the word, i already knew the Dale, pointing to shower: You need to go and shower students, they knew me. kids were interested, kru over there before you get in the pool. ae was thrilled about it, excited to do it. barriers Random Royal River guest: Thank you. were minimal due to interest. I like to think it was b/c the students liked me and Megan: Continue, please. wanted to study with me. i get mobbed everytime i Dale: I have 2 students run the bank—they take dego to school. it’s cool. posits, pay interest, and keep the master accounts. Everyone has a bank book. The market is made up of Megan: Any final words of wisdom? things sent by friends from the U.S., like toys, school Dale: Establish relationships first, and look for insupplies, candy, t-shirts. I give reward stickers liberterest among students. If there is interest, they ally, but everything is priced high. have to want to come in, they have to be motivated. It has to be fun. Megan: What plans do you have for the club? Where are you going with this? Megan: Well, Superman-Rock Star Khun Dale, Dale: I’m going to start talking to them about creating thanks for letting people know what you’re doing. a product or service to sell to others in the club, so as Dale: It’s hard being Superman in Nampai—they to expand the whole economy. I want to foster some don’t have phone booths! 27 Bridge Over the Misty Chasm, A “First Date” with my Landlady 119 Reflection By Kathleen Stocking, TCCO 119 to raise money for charity, and touch everything and comment in Laos. I live in a Laos-Puwhin village where they still speak the language that they arrived with 200 years ago. I never liked my landlady. I was polite, of course. But I avoided her whenever possible. She drove me crazy. She would come into the house when I was gone and move things around. She would hire someone to mow the lawn with a motorized weed whip and then want me to pay for it. If anything needed to be fixed or painted, I did it and paid for it. The house was in shambles when I moved in and I had to spend weeks cleaning and painting just to make it livable. There were dead birds, among other things, in the corners. After about six months of this, as they all once again gathered around my laundry tubs at the table I used for folding laundry and paying the rent, I stood and announced in a stern, stentorian voice, with my arms folded across my chest, “Ready? Okay! Only one woman about the rent house, please!” Prom-kah? Okay! ung puying geogap chow-ban, noy-ee-kah!” In those days I worked long hours, leaving early in the morning and traveling by bicycle and then songtaew to three different schools. It had been nerveracking to come back in the gathering dusk and find things in the house has subtly “shifted” while I was gone. Exhausted, I would think I was losing my mind because the bananas were in a different place than I’d left them. This was all the words I knew in Thai, and then some. Given that my pronunciation is off-the-charts inscrutable, maybe I said something entirely different. Maybe I said, “The soup is on the ceiling,” or, “My father is a gun man and he’ll be here any minute.” But whatever I said, they got the message and after that only the one lady, the one who had once lived in the house, the one with the dead husband, showed up. There were some weird thing going on in my landlady’s large, extended family of mostly female inlaws: on the first of every month when the rent was due, all these women, sisters of her deceased husband, would show up and demand the rent money too. I heard stories through the grapevine that she owed everyone money for gambling. I have no idea what the real story was. She was a widow with two grown sons. She was poor while the sisters of the dead husband were rich. She sold food in the market while they sat around all day. Whatever the real story, I figured she needed the money more than they did. And, if she owed them, which she probably did, she could pay them. I was her renter, not her banker. Somehow, too, my landlady began to understand that I didn’t really appreciate her coming into the house I would think I was losing my mind because the bananas were in a different place than I’d left them. while I was gone and moving things around. At long last, I never saw her except on rent day. What a relief. Each successive month, as the time approached for the rent money to be paid, I began to dread it. They were all very nice, of course, but Oldest Sister was bossy and not only told me I was fat- she poked at my fat rolls. Second Oldest Sister was a gossip who never stopped asking questions about how much everything cost. Youngest Sister was prissy and liked to check out my brooms. The only sister I liked never came again after the first time. The women would wander around my house, like ladies on a home tour Then, just before Dr. John’s site visit, I sprained my knee. I couldn’t go to the market. I couldn’t ride my bike. For the first time since I’d come to Thailand, I needed help. Because my landlady cooked food and sold it on the street and because she was a good cook, I asked her to bring me food every day and also to go buy fruit and bring it. Could she do this for 50 baht a day? She could and did. The food was good and she did something that even 28 119 Reflection Continued from page 28 many times, “Hot today,” and then smiled and laughed in a warm, “ha-ha-ha, I’m loving every minute of this” sort of way. now I marvel at. She showed me the food raw, before she cooked it. She must have figured out that I was afraid of food. Initially I had tried everything, but after a few adventures in mystery food and a few too many bouts of stomach flu, I’d arrived at a system that worked: coffee and oranges in the morning; beer and potato chips at night. Of course I wasn’t eating right. I knew that. But the combination of not trusting the food, not being able to get to a place where I could buy food I recognized, and not having time to cook, had brought me to that sorry pass. Now, however, with the help of my landlady, for the first time, I began to eat regular Thai food. And it was good. Every muscle in my body was tense, the way it is when you’ve been painting your balcony but accidentally kicked the ladder out from under yourself and now you’re just hanging there. You’ve called for help and you wonder if the men in the garbage truck can come in from the road before you fall to your death. Inside the pick-up it was air-conditioned and yet it was so hot outside that I was still sweating and everything was sticking to everything else, the baby sticking to me and me sticking to the plastic seats of the truck and everything smelling of baby urine. When we would stop the truck and get out, which happened several times in the rice fields and once at a farmer’s house where she knew the man, it was hot in that way that when you took a breath your lungs seemed to be scorching. After about a month of this, she came one afternoon and said, in Thai, that the next day was her birthday and she wanted to celebrate it with me. She would come at 3 the next afternoon and take me out to the rice field. She would borrow a truck because she knew I couldn’t ride on a motorcycle. She would She came one afernoon and said, in Thai, that the next day was her birthday and she wanted to celebrate it with me. As the afternoon wore on I marveled more and more at her courage. This was a huge undertaking for her. It was like the scene in E. M. Forster’s “Passage to India,” where the nice Indian doctor takes the lonely Miss Quested and her future mother-in-law to the Malabar Caves for the day. It might seem like a simple thing when you first have the idea, but taking someone who is not a member of your culture and who does not speak your language on an “outing” is not for the timid. provide the food for our supper and I should not give her any money. The next day arrived and she showed up precisely at 3 p.m., with a pick-up truck on its way. I gave her the roses and card I had bought for her birthday. We had to wait for the truck and then ended up with a two-year-old, the nephew of the people who owned the truck. I liked this child but it was time for his nap and he was irritable. He ended up eventually falling asleep on my lap and wetting his pants. I didn’t really mind. Of course it occurred to me, and more than once, that she was suddenly being nice to me so I’d give her my computer and everything else when I left Thailand. She’d come into my house when I was gone to my sister’s funeral in America and “borrowed” my charcoal burner and dish soap and never returned them. She only fixed the light over the stairs, without which I was in danger of falling and breaking my head, the day before the rent was due. Basic fairness wasn’t in her scheme of things- I knew that; whatever was mine was hers and whatever was hers was hers, too. But even if she had already set her sights on my possessions, it didn’t diminish the sheer magnitude of her effort to establish social connection. My landlady’s feet could barely reach the pedals and she drove nervously, as though afraid of running off the road, but she drove slowly and we were on back roads with no traffic so it seemed safe enough. We were both extremely polite, like people on a first date. I speak terrible Thai, and knowing this, I did it anyway. It had to be done. At first I had ridden in total silence but I couldn’t live with that so I said, “Baby sleeps,” and then smiled. And then later, “Rice field,” and then smiled and nodded. And The ladies in the rice field were cutting it with hand sickles. It was hot, yet they had their arms and faces covered in protection against the sun. There 29 119 Reflection Continued from page 30 have to be not that many places in the world where rice is still harvested with hand sickles and it has to be brutally hard work. “Chowna gin whiskey tuk wan,” she said, “Farmers drink whiskey everyday.” To which I responded, “Chai-ka.” Yes. Oh, yes. I wanted to drink whiskey, and I was only watching them. Tired of fish and Mama? Bite into some Sticky Rice! My landlady told me that people in her family were not farmers, but owned the land and paid the farmers. She was proud of this, understandably. It had to be such hard work that it was almost a death sentence. Certainly the work was so physically demanding, and so poorly paid, that it required total submission to a subsistence existence just above the level of animals. Anything beyond eating, sleeping, and working was out of the question. We arrived back at my house just as the sun was setting. She went and returned the truck and came back on her motorcycle bringing two bottles of Leo beer, garlic, lettuce and sausage. “Brio,” she said, pointing to the sausage, “Adjan chop brio.” “Sour. Teacher likes sour.” She knew I liked sour food. I was deeply touched by this and almost cried. Maybe it was the beer. Maybe it was the long, tense day. But no one else in Thailand, as far as I knew, had any idea that I liked sour food. The sausage was indeed sour, and almost all fat and gristle. She showed me how to cut a small piece and, along with a clove of garlic, wrap it in a lettuce leaf and eat it. We sat in the twilight eating raw cloves of garlic and tiny pieces of sausage wrapped in lettuce leaves until the lettuce was gone. When she had gone, leaving only the sound of her motorcycle fading in and out, I imagined her going toward her own home through the dusky light of the winding little lane, then I put everything away, turned out the kitchen lights and went upstairs to bed. It’s delicious. It must have been about 7 in the evening, but I was utterly exhausted. I imagined my landlady, in the same state of exhaustion from her Herculean effort at friendship throughout the long afternoon, also turning in early. As I fell asleep I marveled at the courage she had shown and the success she had achieved in making a fragile bridge, absent common language, across the misty chasm of cultural differences. 30 A Bunch of Pretty Pictures Submitted by Alex Medina, CBOD 120 31 Picture Spread Picture Spread 32 Gaysia Where Peace Corps Thailand’s Gaysia GLBTQ voices are heard Feb.March.April.May 2009 Gaysia, Peace Corps Thailand’s venue for articles concerning GLBTQ issues, is now part of Sticky Rice. Our minds are open and your topics are welcome. Turn the page and check out this issue’s submissions. 33 A Slow but Sure Start to Gender Equality Gaysia By Alex Medina, CBOD 120 and Army brat homosexuality as a mental disorder. However if you consider that our own military still operates under the “Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell” policy, which does more harm than good, a step like this by any country’s military to address LGBT issues positively is a step in the right direction for LGBT rights worldwide. I have never understood the discrimination of LGBT people by the military. Most military officials claim it is a matter of national security and group cohesion. However, no evidence indicates LGBT troops affect national security and some research shows that 72 percent of US soldiers wouldn’t mind serving with an openly gay comrade. For most in the US military, it becomes an issue of morality. November 29 has unofficially become Thailand’s National Human Rights day for Sexual Diversity. This year marked the first ever celebration of the day, back in 2006, when the Thai Queer Network filed a petition with the Ministry of Defence to change the sor dor 43 conscription certificates, which exempted Thai transsexuals from service due to “mental disorder.” Being labeled with a “mental disorder” prevents many katoeys from being able to find employment, since sor dor 43 certificates are necessary for most jobs. In the end, on March 19, 2008, the Ministry agreed to remove the description for the document and katoeys will be described on their sor dor 43 certificates as “belonging to a third category.” Some might cite the physical differences between the sexes as a reason to exclude katoeys. That argument doesn’t hold up since women are allowed to serve in the Thai military. Since a katoey lives life as a woman, she should still be allowed to serve in the military if she chooses and signup as a woman, fulfilling requirements as a woman. However the signs of progressive and complete future acceptance can be seen within the Thai military. The Ministry’s removal of “mental disorder” and the approval of the Yogyakarta Principles is an encouraging sign that Thailand is not solely developing economically, but it is also developing to include social inclusion. Gender equality is off to a slow start in Thailand, as with most countries worldwide. In 2007, the Thai Constitutional Drafting Assembly failed to redefine the term “gender” to protect sexual diversity, despite advocates participating in the drafting. However, Thailand’s acceptance of the Yogyakatra Principles on the Application of International Human Rights Law in Relation to Sexual Orientation and Gender Identity and the Ministry’s removal of “mental disorder” shows signs that Thailand is becoming friendlier toward LGBT rights. This might seem trivial, considering that the American Psychological Association in 1973 declassified 34 Miscommunication isn’t a Means to an End Gaysia By Becky Korpi, TCCO 120/Sticky Rice co-editor A few months ago, my counterpart said perhaps the coolest thing I’ve ever heard anyone say about sexual orientation. We were sitting at her desk in our fourth grade classroom, browsing through her Thai-English dictionary while our kids were brushing their teeth outside. We stumbled across the word “bisexual.” At this time, we’d also been living together for about six months. Little by little we let each other deeper into the recesses of who we really are, and so I decided to take a risk. Pointing to “bisexual” in the soft, secondhand dictionary, I also pointed to myself. The brain processes of my counterpart are more Western than Thai most of the time, but even so, I’ve had enough experience with this particular conversation to know that it’s nearly impossible to gauge who’s going to put their hand on your shoulder and who’s going to use that same hand to slug you in the face after you drop the queer bomb. In America, I’ve received both reactions and been shocked by who they came from. After taking a moment to process my message, my counterpart sat back and said, “I accept you for everything you are. Kao-jai mai ka?” We were speaking my language, but I had no words in return because in my life up to that point, nobody had ever said that. For awhile, the story ended there. Then it acquired a new chapter. After the election, she and I were sitting at the computers in our living room, reading our respective news websites. I was engrossed in a story about San Francisco taking away gay marriage rights and another state banning gay adoption. I voiced this to my counterpart, who said very cooly, “That’s okay. I agree with those.” I know it’s rude to stare at people, but I couldn’t help it. This woman, who had so quickly become one of my closest friends and greatest allies in this country, was saying exactly what I was tired of hearing in America. I wanted to scream, How can you accept me for everything that I am if you don’t accept two women or two men falling in love and wanting to be spouses and parents? But ask anyone; I’m a greng-jai expert. So without one word I simply got up and went upstairs to bed. My silent treatment is a huge red flag that you’ve crossed 35 the line. I was upset for the next two or three days because it felt like a breach of trust. The years of arguments I’ve had with my parents over these same issues came flooding back in a wave of black nostalgia, and I wasn’t sure if everything could be 100 percent again between me and her if she was going to take this bull-headed stance on gay civil rights. But after watching a stubbled, hairy adult katoey play volleyball at our school, I realized my mistake. When I talk about gay people and she talks about gay people, we’re not thinking of the same people. I’m thinking of mild-mannered citizens with careers and Madonna’s entire discography. She can only think of what she knows – the obnoxious lady-men in short shorts and purple eyeshadow that wander around our village and cause trouble because they have nothing else to do. “They make our village dirty,” I’ve heard her say before, and truthfully, I see her point when thinking of them with adopted children. The way her opinion formed has nothing to do with me, but maybe after another year I can help soften it. The point is, I suppose, that miscommunication is not always a language thing. With Thai people who speak fluent English, it’s sometimes easy to forget where you are and what kind of culture you’re dealing with. Think twice -- Madonna’s entire discography is worth every penny, but not worth losing a best friend over. Meet the Editors Meet the Editors So what gives us the authority to manhandle your words, pictures and innermost thoughts and feelings? This is what -- a one-timeonly glimpse at why we’re qualified for this, and also how sadly unqualified we are for the TCCO program. But don’t tell anyone. atalie Kalish (Group 120, TCCO) is a native of Ohio and a graduate of Valparaiso University in Northwest Indiana where she studied English. Before joining the Peace Corps she worked at The Great Books Foundation in Chicago, Illinois as a copy-editing intern for their quarterly publication “The Common Review.” She currently resides in Chaiyaphum province in Issan with her dog, Narak. She likes pina coladas and getting caught in the rain. Becky Korpi (Group 120, TCCO) hails from the Upper Peninsula of Michigan (say yah to da U.P., eh?) and is a proud graduate of Northern Michigan University. She holds a bachelor of science degree in English/Writing with a journalism concentration. Prior to Peace Corps service she worked as Features Editor of her university’s newspaper, The orth Wind, and won Good News Awards in 2007 and 2008 for her feature articles in Marquette Monthly. She now lives in Buriram province with her foulmouthed counterpart and three bratty little boys. This issue is brought to you by: strawberry cereal bars at 2 a.m., Ovaltine 3 in 1, Lady Gaga, vent sessions with Kate Selvig and Cassie Wheeler, Genesis (the Phil Collins era duh), my counterpart’s sons throwing chicken at me while I’m working, Mariah Carey’s Greatest Hits 36
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