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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Kraków
No. 93, April - May 2015
No. 93 - 5zł
inyourpocket.com
Contents
Feature
Further Afield
Wieliczka
Auschwitz
Tarnów
Tychy
104
107
110
114
Leisure
116
20
Shopping
120
28
44
Directory
126
Polish Food
Cafés
Hotels
128
54
Nightlife
56
64
Las Wolski (Wolski Forest)
6
Arrival & Transport
10
City Basics
Basic History
16
18
Culture & Events
Restaurants
Kazimierz Nightlife
Sightseeing
The Royal Route
Old Town
Wawel
Kazimierz
Podgórze
Jewish Ghetto
Salwator
Nowa Huta
68
70
82
86
92
95
98
100
Maps & Index
Nowa Huta Map
City Map
City Centre Map
Street Index
Listings Index
Features Index
135
136-137
139
140
141
142
IN PRINT
ONLINE
ON YOUR MOBILE
WORLD-CLASS SHOPPING
www.galeriakrakowska.pl
Ahh, Wawel in springtime. Go explore Kraków’s ancient royal castle complex on page 82.
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© YMZK-photo - dollar photo club
April - May 2015
3
Foreword
Few cities emerge from their winter hangover as exuberant
as Kraków, where all over Poland’s cultural capital at this
very moment the beer garden umbrellas (p.57) are in full
bloom, the pigeons are cooing and mounting each other,
couples are petting in the Planty (p.70) and picnicking
on the Wisła, while street performers play merry music in
public squares or stand by in silent protest of the clownish
antics of costumed tourists. Kraków has its spring buzz on
in a big way and there’s no better time to be here than the
season of rising temperatures and hemlines. The arrival of
spring also brings with it the start of Kraków’s high festival
season, so check our Events section on page 20 (and
online at krakow.inyourpocket.com) to see all that’s
going on while you’re in town. While the excitement of
the new season is palpable, for us at IYP it’s still business
as usual producing the best guide to Kraków on the market
(ahem). As always, within these pages you’ll ﬁnd detailed,
up-to-date information about all our favourite dining
establishments (p.28), drinking holes (p.56) and dance
parties (p.62), plus what to see and do in between (p.66).
So give this trusty tome a thorough read (or don’t - we’ve
actually condensed the entire thing down to half a page on
p.67) to discover all there is to love about Kraków.
Publisher
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków
krakow@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Company Oﬃce & Accounts
General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676
Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 58 555 08 31
Circulation
20,000 copies published every two months
Editorial
Editor: Garrett Van Reed; Research Manager: Anna Hojan;
Researchers: Oliwia Hojan, Kalina Klimaszewska;
Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak;
Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise
stated; Cover Courtesy of Groteska Theatre
Sales & Circulation
Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager:
Monika Szymanek 668 876 351
Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643
Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Trocha 606 749 642
Gdansk/Malbork Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824
Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City
Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD
ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form without written permission from the
copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every eﬀort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
COVER STORY
Here there be dragons, and on
the last weekend in May they
strut their stuﬀ for adoring
crowds. If you’re in town on May
30th and 31st, don’t dare miss
the Great Dragons Parade. More
info on p.22.
ABOUT IYP
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4
Kraków In Your Pocket
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carrying out a new round of expansion
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Feature 1
Las Wolski
Despite the density of visitors to Kraków since the budget
airline boom, it’s still incredibly easy to derail yourself from
the tourist trail. One of Kraków’s best diversions is Las Wolski
(Wolski Forest) - a massive protected woodland atop several
hills that majestically tower over the city centre a mere 8km
to the west (just beyond Salwator and Kościuszko Mound).
The forest’s close proximity and easy access make it one
of the best recreational areas available to Cracovians; Las
Wolski’s 422 hectares (1042 acres) include eight marked
hiking trails (total length 35km/22 miles), a cycling path,
horse-riding trail and cross-country skiing route. In addition
to being an important local recreational enclave and wildlife
habitat for deer, badgers, hares, foxes and other critters, the
forest also shelters several tourist and family destinations,
including the Kraków Zoo, Przegorzały Castle, Pilsudski
Mound and the mysterious Camaldolese Monastery
atop Srebrna Góra (Silver Mountain). If you’re eager to
escape the city, this is the easiest way to do it; go out and
spend an afternoon getting lost in Las Wolski.
Sunset behind Las Wolski’s mysterious Camaldolese Monastery. | Photo by Thaler Tamas - CC BY-SA 3.0 pl - Wikimedia Commons
KRAKÓW ZOO
First opened in 1929, this lovely zoological garden has
grown from a small menagerie to a 20 hectare park
oﬀering visitors the chance to see nearly 1500 animals
of almost 300 species, but still manageable in size. Most
of the exhibits are outdoors in the natural setting of the
surrounding Wolski Forest - making this a great sunny day
activity - and there’s surprisingly little to get depressed
about. Among the rare, exotic and endangered species
you’ll see are Indian elephants, pygmy hippopotami, South
American sea lions, giraﬀes, camels, dwarf caimans and a
surprisingly impressive array of brightly-plumed pheasants
(our favourite). There’s also a petting zoo, snack bar for
when you’re hungry and ice cream vendors so your kids
have something totally unnecessary to nag you about. Bus
134 leaves about every 30mins from Stadion Cracovia (ul.
Kałuży, H-3) and drops you oﬀ at the entrance.Qul. Kasy
Oszczędności Miasta Krakowa 14 (Krowodrza), tel. (+48)
12 425 35 51, www.zoo-krakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 18/10zł.
Into the Woods
Looming above Kraków only minutes from the centre is over 1000
acres of undeveloped wilderness - the perfect antidote to urban
existence. Criss-crossed with hiking trails, Wolski Forest (Las Wolski)
not only provides the perfect springtime retreat, but also a habitat for
native wildlife and exotic animals, monastic hermits and Nazi secrets.
Read on to learn what else is lurking in these woods.
6
Kraków In Your Pocket
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PIŁSUDSKI MOUND
Piłsudski Mound as it looked just after completion in 1938.
Man-made earthwork burial mounds were already an
established Cracovian tradition by the 20th century (see
Krakus Mound, Kościuszko Mound), and talk of building
one in honour of Poland’s inter-war hero and leader Józef
Piłsudski was underway even before his death in 1935. By
1937 it was complete, and though the Nazis had it slated
for demolition and the communists even got the tanks out
to pull down the huge granite cross that once stood at its
peak, Piłsudski Mound still stands today as an enduring and
sacred symbol of Polish independence. About a 25 minute
walk north from the Zoo on the red trail, this is the highest
point in Las Wolski; the panoramic views from the top are
excellent and on a clear day the Tatra Mountains are visible
to the south.QAl. do Kopca.
GETTING TO LAS WOLSKI
Car access to Las Wolski is restricted, so even if you
have a vehicle it’s more sensible to take the bus. Bus
134 leaves from ‘Cracovia Stadion’ (ul. Kałuży, H-3) near
the Błonia every 30mins starting at 06:30 and takes
passengers directly to the Zoo at the very centre of the
forest. Here - to the right of the Zoo entrance - you’ll
ﬁnd a map of all the trails in the area, the most popular
of which is the red trail which leads north to Piłsudski
Mound, and south to the Camaldolese Monastery;
alternatively, take the yellow trail southwest to visit
Przegorzały Castle and the U Ziyada Restaurant. Before
you set out, however, make sure to take a look at the
timetables at the bus stop and have a plan for your
return into town; unless you’re headed to Przegorzały
(there is a bus stop below the castle), you’re best option
is likely to return to this spot to catch the bus back to
the Old Town.
Bus 409 also makes the trip to Las Wolski from
‘Cracovia Stadion’ Mon-Fri every 40mins from 08:00 19:00, dropping students oﬀ at Przegorzały Castle.
If you prefer taking a cab, the trip from the Old Town
to the Zoo will likely cost 35zł and take 30mins; to
Przegorzały Castle 20-35zł, 20mins. Bear in mind that
it’s best to ask beforehand in order to avoid surprises.
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April - May 2015
7
Las Wolski
Las Wolski
Photo by Mateusz Giełczyński - CC BY-SA 3.0 pl - Wikimedia Commons
Photo by ImreKiss - CC BY 3.0 - Wikimedia Commons
PRZEGORZAŁY CASTLE
About 6.5km west of the Old Town, on a rocky outcropping
at the edge of the forest overlooking the Wisła River, lies
Przegorzały Castle - one of Las Wolski’s highlights, and
an easy short hiking destination with big rewards. While
today the sunset views from the amazing terraces of
the restaurant/cafe represent a motion-picture-perfect
romantic retreat, this site has a sinister back story. Despite
resembling an ancient royal residence, this picturesque
estate actually only dates back to the late-1920s when
local architect and conservator Adolf Szyszko-Bohusz built
the building today known as the ‘Bastion’ as his family
residence. Seized by the Nazis at the start of the war, the
estate was soon transformed into a grand residential castle
for Otto Wachter - the Nazi ‘Governor of the Cracow district.’
[It was Wachter who established the Kraków Ghetto and
organised the mass murder of Polish Jews across Galicia;
he also oversaw the execution of over 1000 ethnic Poles
(mostly thought to be resistance ﬁghters) in a mass grave
nearby the castle known as ‘Glinik.’] The estate’s imposing
main mountaintop villa - then called Schloss Wartenburg
(‘Castle Observatory’), and today known as Przegorzały
Castle - was built in 1942-43 before work was stopped
upon Wachter’s reassignment to Lviv; original plans for
a funicular railway from the base of the mountain to the
castle were never completed.
After the liberation of Krakow in 1945, the Bohusz
family tried unsuccessfully to reclaim the property
and it became the seat of the Department of Forestry.
Today Przegorzały Castle houses Jagiellonian University’s
8
Kraków In Your Pocket
Institute of European Studies, and also the Centre
for Holocaust Studies. For visitors, however, the main
attractions are the restaurant and cafe ‘U Ziyada,’ whose
multi-level terraces oﬀer jaw-dropping views of the
Wisła River and the valleys below; on clear days, the
peaks of the Tatras can even be seen in the distance.
Undoubtedly one of the most romantic, picturesque, and
intimate locations in Kraków, dinner or even just a coﬀee
at Przegorzały is the perfect end to a trip to Las Wolski;
heck, the views easily justify taking a cab straight there
from your hotel (20-35zł for the about 20min ride). Bus
409 delivers students here from the ‘Stadion Cracovia’
stop (H-3) during the school week from 8:00 - 19:00,
or on weekends take bus 134 from the same spot and
walk 15mins down the yellow trail from its drop-oﬀ at
the Zoo.Qul. Jodłowa 13. Restaurant/cafe open every
day 10:00 - 22:00.
CAMALDOLESE MONASTERY
Those looking to get well oﬀ the tourist trail might consider
a spiritual journey to Las Wolski’s mysterious and discreetly
secluded Camaldolese Monastery (Klasztor Kamedułów),
otherwise known as the ‘Silver Mountain Hermitage.’
Here the Camaldolites - part of the Benedictine family of
monastic orders - have lived in peace and obscurity since
their founder Mikołaj Wolski (after whom the entire forest is
now named) arrived from Italy and wangled the land from
Sebastian Lubomirski in 1604. Damaged by ﬁre and rebuilt
in 1814, this large, walled, white limestone architectural
complex is today one of the ﬁnest representations of lateBaroque style in Europe.
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The hermetic lives of the Camaldolites arouse a great
amount of curiosity and speculation from those beyond
the wall due to their secrecy and seclusion. Clad in hooded
white robes and bushy beards, the monks follow the severe
self-imposed principles ‘Ora et labora’ (‘Pray and work’) and
‘Memento Mori’ (‘Remember you must die’), abstain from
speaking unless absolutely necessary and only encounter
each other during certain prayer times. Short verbal
exchanges are allowed three times a week, while contact
with the world beyond the monastery is only allowed ﬁve
days a year. Between prayer and work, simple vegetarian
meals are eaten in the solitude of each monk’s small
hermitage, where one of the only aspects of décor is the
skull of his predecessor. An extremely isolated, strict and
devout order, there are presently less than 60 Camaldolese
monks in the world, of which 9 live in Las Wolski.
While the compound is founded on isolationism, it is
possible for men to gain entrance to the monastery daily
from 08:00 - 11:30 and 15:00 - 16:00. Women, on the other
hand, are only permitted 12 days a year, but 5 of them
happen to be in the next two months: Easter Sunday
(April 5th), Easter Monday (April 6th), May 3rd,
Pentecost Sunday (May 24), Pentecost Monday (May
25), June 21st, July 12th and 26th, August 2nd, August
15th, September 8th and December 25th. Although access
to the grounds is limited, the main church - featuring two
50m towers, eight ornate Baroque chapels, an impressive
main altar and creepy underground crypts - and its
immediate surroundings are open at the speciﬁed times
and well worth a look if you’re patient enough to get inside.
To do so involves bravely pulling an iron ring attached to a
Photo by Pko - CC BY-SA 3.0 - Wikimedia Commons
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long chain and waiting an indeterminable amount of time
for one of the monks to silently open the large wooden
doors of the main gate, before vanishing again like a
cloud of vapour. A truly spell-binding and spiritual place,
the monastery’s legend grew when Italian football coach
Cesare Prandelli and his staﬀ made a 21km pilgrimage here
from their Old Town hotel on foot, setting oﬀ at 03:00 in the
morning and arriving for morning mass, after qualifying for
the knockout phase of EURO 2012.
The sanctuary can be more easily reached by taking any
westbound bus except number 100 from the Salwator
tram roundabout to the bottom of Srebrna Góra (Silver
Mountain); it’s then a steep 200 metre walk uphill on the
red trail to the monastery. Even easier is taking bus 134
from the ‘Cracovia Stadion’ stop (ul. Kałuży, H-3) to the Zoo
(the last stop) and from there it’s about a 20 minute walk
south following the red trail (ﬁnd it to the left if facing the
zoo entrance).QAl. Konarowa 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 76 10,
www.kameduli.info.
U ZIYADA
One of the most romantic restaurants in Kraków,
if you’ve got a date, blindfold them, put them in a
cab and bring them here. Set inside a magniﬁcent
castle perched atop a jag of limestone poking out of
Wolski Forest, two levels of terraces oﬀer outstanding
panoramic views of the Wisła River and Tatra Mountains
in the distance, and with these prices you’re basically
getting them for free. The menu is a mix of international
dishes, plus dishes from traditional Polish and Kurdish
cooking, and while the environment is ﬁt for royalty,
the atmosphere is reassuringly relaxed. The perfect pitstop after a trip to the Zoo or walk in the woods, even
if you’re not hungry, it’s worth coming here for coﬀee,
ice cream and the view. To get there direct, grab a cab
and expect to pay somewhere between 20-35zł, or
take bus 134 to the Zoo and it’s a lovely 15min walk
through the woods on the yellow trail.Qul. Jodłowa
13 (Przegorzały Castle), tel. (+48) 12 429 71 05,
www.uziyada.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (23-55zł).
TGBSW
April - May 2015
9
Arrival & Transport
Arrival & Transport
45mins, depending on traﬃc, but during the day you may
be able to get to your hotel faster by getting oﬀ early and
taking a tram; for example both daytime airport buses stop
at ‘Plac Inwalidów’ from which you can catch trams 8 or 13
to ‘Teatr Bagatela’, Wawel, and Kazimierz (‘Stradom’ and ‘Plac
Wolnica’ stops).
To get to the airport, both buses 208 and 292 depart from
the Kraków Bus Station (ul. Bosacka 18, E-1) at the stop
‘Dworzec Główny Wschód’ - located on the lower level of
the bus station, just east of the train station. Exact bus times
can be checked online at mpk.krakow.pl and you should
calculate that the journey can take up to 45mins, just to
make sure you have plenty of time.
Kra
Krakó
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Airpo
Airpo
rporrrtt
Kraków is well-connected regarding transport, with its own
airport just 17km west of the centre, a recently modernised
joint train and bus station on the edge of the Old Town, and
some of Poland’s better roads connecting it to Katowice,
Wrocław and Berlin to the west, Tarnów and Rzeszów to
the east, Kielce and Warsaw to the north and Budapest to
the south. The city also boasts a comprehensive and easyto-use public transportation system, which some visitors
won’t even ﬁnd necessary thanks to most attractions
being within easy walking distance of one another (not
to mention walking being one of the best ways to enjoy
Kraków). In this section you’ll ﬁnd all you need to know
about getting in and out of Kraków, as well as around the
city with general ease.
BY PLANE
KRAKÓW AIRPORT
Located 17km west of the city centre, Kraków Airport is
currently the subject of a one billion złoty investment and,
as such, will resemble a confounding construction site
until late 2015. The project will completely renovate and
restructure the current passenger terminals, making them
three times larger, connecting them to the new 4-star
Hilton Garden Inn hotel (now open) and new airport train
station (under construction), and better integrate local
roadways into the complex.
All the while, the airport will remain open and authorities
have promised not to obstruct its basic operation. As it was
constructed, the Kraków Airport consisted of two small
terminals - creatively referred to as 1 and 2 - with Terminal
10 Kraków In Your Pocket
2 (for domestic ﬂights) oﬀering little more than a pricey
cafe, newsstand and ATM (bankomat); and Terminal 1 (for
international ﬂights) featuring a currency exchange, ATMs,
a cafe, restaurant and tourist information point (open 09:00
- 19:00). Getting through check-in and security should still
be relatively speedy, but we’re not sure how these other
services will be aﬀected by the construction (if at all). Note
that the entrances to the two terminals are brainlessly
located at opposite ends of the airport complex; to avoid
a long walk (about 750m), take the free shuttle bus which
runs regularly between the two.
GETTING TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Formerly, the best way to get between the airport and
Kraków’s Old Town was by train. We presume that this
will again someday be the case, however, train service
between Kraków and the airport is currently
suspended while the track is being modernised. The rail
line is not expected to be back in operation until the end
of 2015.
As such, aside from taxi, bus is presently the best way to
get to and from the airport. Public buses 292 (departs
every 20mins) and 208 (once an hour) both make the
journey; upon leaving Terminal 1, ﬁnd the bus stop to your
right. Note that from Terminal 2 you can take a shuttle
bus to Terminal 1 to access public transportation. Night
bus 902 also makes the trip from this stop with hourly
departures between 23:25 and 03:55.The airport is in Zone
II, meaning you need to buy a 4/2zł fare from the ticket
machine at the bus-stop or on-board the bus. The entire
journey from the airport to the bus station takes about 35krakow.inyourpocket.com
AIRPORT TAXIS
The airport has its own ‘Krakow Airport Taxi’ service with
vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrances. The idea
is that this ‘trusted’ service oﬀers a set price range of 6989zł from the airport to the Old Town, with no monkey
business and no night time price hikes. In reality, this
service is ﬂeecing people by protecting its ridiculously
high prices. If you go more than 15km the price jumps
from 69zł to 89zł, so expect to pay 89zł unless your hotel
is en route on the outskirts of the city centre. We advise
conﬁrming the fare for the 25-35min journey beforehand,
and trying to split the cost with other travellers in the
same situation.
You can also save money by calling ahead to arrange a cab
to take you back to the airport for your return ﬂight; try a
few of the companies we list under Taxis and you may be
able to negotiate a daytime fare as low as 40zł from the Old
Town.Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295 58
00, www.krakowairport.pl.
BY BUS
KRAKÓW BUS STATION
Although integrated directly into the underground
Kraków Glówny transportation centre, Kraków retains
its own separate bus station, located directly east of the
train platforms. The small building comprises two ﬂoors
with access to two levels of bus departure gates. Inside
the small top ﬂoor of the bus station you’ll ﬁnd a 24-hour
toilet, snack bar, restaurant, exchange bureau (kantor), ATM
(bankomat) and information point (open 07:00-20:00).
Lockers for left luggage cost 8-15zł (depending on size) for
24 hours, however are unavailable when the main hall is
closed between 22:00 and 06:00. During this time there is a
separate night time waiting room.
Those arriving to Kraków by bus will ﬁnd taxis nearby on
both the upper and lower ﬂoors, as well connections to
public transport nearby. Unfortunately, the most direct
way into the Old Town is through the underground Kraków
Główny; once you’re inside this labyrinth follow the clearly
marked signs for ‘Stare Miasto’ or ‘ul. Lubicz’ to exit in the
direction of the market square.
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Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra
Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour
journey. For exact departure times check the website which
is also in English. Mini-bus is actually your best option for
getting to some popular destinations like Wieliczka and
Niepołomice. Many mini-buses leave not from the bus
station, but from the bus lot across from Galeria Krakowska
at the corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (D-2). Only a
short walk away, follow signs to ‘ul. Pawia’ into and out of
the shopping mall to get there.QE-1, ul. Bosacka 18, tel.
(+48) 703 40 33 40, www.mda.malopolska.pl. Ticket
oﬃce open 07:00 - 19:45.
BY TRAIN
MAIN TRAIN STATION
Following a major, multi-year, 130 million PLN modernisation
project, Kraków Główny - the catch-all title of the city’s
new modern transportation centre - is now yours to
experience in all its vast, underground glory. The new
station essentially renders the old above-ground station
building obsolete, transferring all services underground, and
creating theoretically easy transfers between train, bus and
tram transport. Of course the Galeria Krakowska shopping
mall has also been cleverly integrated, and along with
modern conveniences like waiting rooms, escalators and
elevators, you’ll now also ﬁnd plenty of additional consumer
opportunities, including cafes, supermarkets, souvenir shops,
bookstores and more. With tunnels, stairs and signs leading
oﬀ in every direction, it’s all quite confusing (erm, I mean,
modern!), but fear not - IYP is here to help you sort it out.
SERVICES
Pretty much everything the modern traveller could ever
expect or desire can now be found somewhere inside the
sprawling, but spiﬀy facilities of the Kraków train station. In
addition to being fully handicap-accessible, there are also
special paths for the blind, plus SOS call boxes if you get
lost and can’t ﬁnd your way out for several days. 24 ticket
windows (some open 24hrs), plus several automated ticket
machines (in English) throughout the station limit the
possibility of long queues. The station is wiﬁ-enabled, there
are several waiting areas (including a place for ﬁrst-class
ticket holders to quarantine themselves), tourist information
(open 06:00 - 22:00), currency exchange, luggage lockers,
showers, and dozens of food and refreshment opportunities,
not to mention the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall.
April - May 2015
11
Arrival & Transport
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Conveniently situated at the north-east edge of the Old
Town, Kraków Główny is within easy walking distance of
most Old Town accommodation, making trams and taxis
largely unnecessary. If you’re travelling further than you
care to walk, you can catch trams to Kazimierz (number
50 in the direction of ‘Kurdwanów’ stops at ‘Miodowa’ in
Kazimierz, for example) and other parts of the city by
following signs underground to ‘Dworzec Główny Tunel.’
Further tram stops are located just outside the station
exits. To skip that trouble however, when you disembark
your train immediately head up rather than down from
the platform and you’ll ﬁnd yourself on the top ﬂoor
parking garage where taxis are waiting to whisk you
away.
If you opt to walk - and we encourage you to do so,
wandering into the Old Town is dreamy - you’ll ﬁnd that
getting out of the station is a bit of a challenge. There are
at least four exits and it’s wise to choose the correct one,
based on where you want to go. Following signs to ‘ul.
Pawia’ will lead you straight into the Galeria Krakowska
shopping mall (in the words of Admiral Ackbar: “It’s a
trap!”). Signs to ‘dworzec autobusowy’ or ‘ul. Bosacka’ will
put you on the east side of the transport complex (further
from the market square). If you want to head straight to
the market square (do it, it’s only 10mins away!) it may be
easier to take the stairs down from the platforms, rather
than the escalators into the new complex. Once in the
tunnel there is a staircase just after platform 1 that will lead
you to daylight. If you end up in the main complex, follow
the clearly marked signs to ‘Stare Miasto’ or ‘ul. Lubicz’ to
escape. Once outside, cross the plaza in front of the old
station building (Galeria Krakowska is on your right) to the
Andels Hotel and follow the crowds through the underpass
(D-2); bear right and enjoy a stroll through the Planty Park
for two blocks before making a left on Floriańska Street at
the Barbican (D-2) and you’re on the ‘Path of Kings’ to the
market square. You’ve arrived.
DEPARTING BY TRAIN
With the train station having been completely moved
underground, there’s no longer a clear-cut main entrance,
but rather several ways to enter. Basically it is directly
underneath the train platforms and bus station (E-1), so use
those as your geographical targets and you’ll ﬁnd your way;
you can also cut through Galeria Krakowska to get there.
Check the timetables online at the Polish railways website
- rozklad.pkp.pl - which has eﬀective English language
functionality. If you want a seat on a particular train it is best
to book ahead. If in a rush, tickets can also be bought on
board the train from the conductor, but expect a surcharge.
[Note that train service to Kraków Balice airport is
currently suspended, due to modernisation of the tracks.
Travellers to the airport should go by bus or taxi.]QE-1, ul.
Pawia 5a, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile
phones), www.rozklad.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that
due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be
made from 24:00 to 01:00.
12 Kraków In Your Pocket
Arrival & Transport
BY CAR
CAR RENTAL
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid
foreign licence or international driving permit. Be aware,
however, that citizens from countries that didn’t ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot
legally drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle from
the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know from
borrowing their girlfriend’s car, or renting one for that matter).
Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving it in a rental car.
Unless your ride is this ﬂy (a souped-up Polski Fiat), just leave it at
home.
Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of diﬀerent
traﬃc and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in
the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country.
Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in
front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban
areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on
motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched
on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, ﬁrst aid kit,
replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper
registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict
drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol
limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may
use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and
you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries
that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and
America) will ﬁnd their licences technically invalid (though this
has never been a problem for anyone we know).
With that out of the way, how to get here? The A4 highway
runs right through Kraków connecting it to Berlin (via
Katowice, Opole and Wrocław) to the west and Tarnów to
the east (though further expansion of this road is planned).
While the 80km stretch east to Tarnów is still currently tollfree, a 9zł toll is paid when you enter the motorway in the
direction of Katowice, and again when you exit.
Driving around the city itself is incredibly frustrating with
constant roadwork being done, one-way streets and
seemingly available streets requiring a permit to drive
down: violate this last rule and the chances of getting a ﬁne
are incredibly high, whether you’ve realised your infraction
or not. Kraków’s road network is not at all adequate for
the volume of cars on its roads and parking is yet another
challenge. Put it all together and we recommend you ditch
your vehicle in favour of public transportation at the ﬁrst
opportunity. Street parking is available between the large
parking signs on the sidewalks, and is free on weekends;
otherwise buy a parking pass from the ticket machine, or
the neon-bibbed warden patrolling the area, and place it
on the driver’s side of your dashboard. The cost of street
parking is 3zł for the ﬁrst hour, 3.50zł for the second, 4.10zł
for the third, and after that back to 3zł. Public parking lots
are also marked on the map in the back of our print guide.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Internationally trusted service
oﬀering a range a vehicles
from two-door sedans to
luxury mini-vans. Located here near the train station
and also at the airport (ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego
1, open Mon - Sat 08:00 - 22:00; contact by phone
possible after working hours).QJ-2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel.
(+48) 601 20 07 02, www.avis.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Oﬀering both short
and long term rental
options
with
9
diﬀerent categories of car available for your individual
needs. Excellence in service with beneﬁts tailored to
your speciﬁc requirements. Europcar is present at all
Polish airports including Kraków-Balice, tel. 12 258 12
86.QJ-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6 (Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48)
12 374 56 96, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
A wide range of cars
including
Audis,
BMWs, Skodas, Kias
and Subarus up to
the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi station wagon. All cars
are equipped with power steering. Satellite navigation
systems are also available. Special rates oﬀered to those
who order through the Joka website.QD-2, ul. Zacisze
7 (3rd ﬂoor, room 7), tel. (+48) 601 54 53 68, www.
joka.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun. Outside of these hours on request.
SPECIAL WEEKEND
OFFER FOR YOUR
CAR RENTAL.
ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC,
GET ON THE OPEN ROAD
AND EXPLORE POLAND
WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL
PRICES FROM 98 PLN*.
* NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED,
ECONOMY CLASS CAR, UNLIMITED MILAGE.
CONTACT:
tel: +48 22 572 65 65
www.avis.pl
The ‘Maluch’ - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly
unavailable to rent.
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
April - May 2015
13
Arrival & Transport
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
While Krakow has no underground metro system it does
have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from
05:00-23:00, with night trams and buses continuing less
frequently after that. Check timetables and network maps
online at mpk.krakow.pl (which has English functionality),
and purchase tickets from the handy ticket machines (also
in English) at major stops, on-board most trams and buses,
or from the driver immediately on boarding if there is no
ticket machine. Note that the ticket machines at stops take
bills and bank cards, but most of those on board trams and
buses take coins only, so have some change handy.
Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed,
allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within
the alloted time. The cheapest fare is good for 20mins at a
cost of 2.80zł. By our estimation, this is about the time it
should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traﬃc, and ideal
for travel around the Old Town, Kazimierz and Podgórze. If
you’re going outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example),
we recommend you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80zł.
1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend
family passes for 16.00zł are also options. Note that ISIC
and Euro‹26 Student cards are valid for transport ticket
discounts, but you must carry your ID and be under 26.
Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket
immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small
machines on-board, even if you bought your ticket onboard. Beware that sneaky plain-clothed inspectors
regularly travel on the lines handing out costly ﬁnes to
those without valid tickets.
USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS
Kraków’s tram and bus network is incredibly easy to use,
but if you want to make it even easier, check out the
krakow.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app
for your smartphone. The former is a great tool for advance
planning, but the app is more practical for ﬁguring out
how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town
and away from your computer. Just type in your starting
address (the app does this automatically) and destination,
select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade
magically churns out the best method for you to get there.
Finished at the museum and want to head back to the
hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram
to get on, lead you to the correct stop and even tell you
which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth the
couple euros you’ll spend to download it.
If you don’t have the patience for public transport in
the ﬁrst place, there’s a nifty app for ordering taxis in
PL: iTaxi.pl. iTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival
times, car models and more, sending the cab of your
choice to your location without you having to talk to
any dispatchers. Best of all, the drivers register to create
a proﬁle, and are heavily vetted so there’s no funny
business. Download it for free from their website.
14 Kraków In Your Pocket
Antique tram outside the City Engineering Museum
TAXIS
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable
and use their metres without any ﬁddling around. Calling
ahead will get you a better fare, but if you hail one from
the street make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with
a company name and phone number displayed, as well as
a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now
legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s
end further limiting the likelihood of any funny business.
You can expect a standard fare to be about 7zł plus about
2.30zł per kilometre; at night and on Sundays, however,
fares increase by up to 50%.
For those just arriving, taxis await you on the rooftop
parking lot of the train station, and outside the airport
terminals where ‘Kraków Airport Taxi’ has a monopoly on
service to the Old Town, charging an outrageous 69-89zł for
the fare. We suggest you split it with like-minded travellers
in the same predicament.
Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit of a point of
contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that
necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver
may not expect one. But double standards being what they
are, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which
case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We
leave it to you.
BARBAKAN TAXI
Qtel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl.
MEGA TAXI
Qtel. (+48) 12 196 25, www.megataxi.eu.
RADIO TAXI 919
Qtel. (+48) 12 191 91, www.radiotaxi919.com.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
26-31.05.2015
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City Basics
City Basics
FACTS & FIGURES
MARKET VALUES
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km),
Lithuania (103km), the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad
(210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices. Market values as of March 20, 2015
based on €1 = 4.08zł
Longest River
Kraków is split by the Vistula (Wisła) River. At 1,047km
it is Poland’s longest river, ﬂowing through Warsaw and
into the Bay of Gdańsk.
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. By comparison Kraków’s landscape is ﬂat
and the city lies 219m above sea level.
Population (2014)
Poland - 38,502,396
Warsaw - 1,729,119
Kraków - 759,800
Łódź - 708,554
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Kraków it’s 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
HEALTH & EMERGENCY
In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should
dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, ﬁre department
or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following:
Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.
English, German and Russian speakers have separate
lines speciﬁcally designed for foreigners in distress: +48
608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can
be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are
hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay.
The lines are active year round with later hours during the
high-tourist season.
For urgent medical emergencies, a list of Emergency
Rooms can be found in the Directory section of this guide.
If you’ve woken up to ﬁnd you’ve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories
of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by
calling a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the
notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private
clinics can also be found in the Directory. Further help can
be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which
can also be found in the Directory.
16 Kraków In Your Pocket
McDonald's Big Mac
Snickers
0.5ltr vodka (shop)
0.5ltr beer (shop)
0.5ltr beer (bar)
Loaf of white bread
20 Marlboros
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98)
Local transport ticket (1 journey)
9.80 zł
1.69 zł
23.99 zł
2.99 zł
9.00 zł
2.99 zł
15.00 zł
4.63 zł
3.80 zł
€ 2.40
€ 0.41
€ 5.88
€ 0.73
€ 2.21
€ 0.73
€ 3.68
€ 1.13
€ 0.93
LAW & ORDER
In general Kraków is far safer than most West European
cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they
simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist,
and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if
you’re in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your
trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around.
Perhaps the biggest danger in Kraków is posed by groups
of drunken football hooligans who can be easily avoided
and heard coming a mile away. Finally, foreign men should
be suspicious of young women who take an overactive
interest in them and suggest going to some dodgy
nightclub not in this guide where they stand the chance
of being intimidated into paying for vastly inﬂated drink
charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately, it happens.
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is signiﬁcantly
easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka
are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to
make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the
law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of geniuses - from
those in Chewbacca costumes to complete prats who’ve
thought it perfectly acceptable to drop their trousers and
urinate in a city centre fountain - have tested the patience
of local law enforcement, which is now decidedly low so
don’t push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a
trip to Kraków’s premier drunk tank on ul. Rozrywka (which
literally translates as ‘Entertainment Street’), where you can
expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company
of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty ﬁne
(credit cards not accepted, of course).
Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding
public transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport,
Public Transport) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If
you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect
jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see crowds of people
krakow.inyourpocket.com
standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to
change. The reason for obeying this little rule is the fact
that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give
you a 50-100zł ﬁne for crossing a road at a place where no
crossing is marked or a 100zł ﬁne when the ‘walk’ light is red.
And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor.
You too are subject to the law and your non-residency
means you will be forced to pay the ﬁne on the spot.
MONEY
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the
100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, and even the occasional
restaurant or bar, will often refuse to break a large note for
you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for
such moments.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor.’ Kantors will
often provide better value than the banks in your home
country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very
wary of kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to
tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the best
rate. For a list of kantors in Kraków that won’t rip you oﬀ,
see Directory.
Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist
destination, prices in Poland and especially Kraków have
been on the rise, making the country less of a bargain
than it was ten years ago. Having said that, however, prices
for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain
comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket
to the cinema typically costs 15-25zł, while admission to
most museums costs around 5-15zł.
RELIGION
According to the Ministry of Foreign Aﬀairs, 95% of Poles
are Roman Catholics. And though that ﬁgure is based on
baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is
probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one
of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one
thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism,
ﬁghting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking
to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity.
When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the Church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul
II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is
beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West
can understand. Those used to the more easy-going habits
of the West may ﬁnd the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving
at ﬁrst, particularly the solemn and opulent processions
that occur from time to time and the droves that ﬂock to
mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Kraków’s
many churches that these aren’t museums, but active
places of worship to be treated with the requisite respect.
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
LANGUAGE SMARTS
Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be
terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many
Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command
of the English language. Though you can probably get
by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will
nonetheless smooth your time in Kraków and may even
win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is oﬃcially recognised as one of
the most diﬃcult languages for native English speakers to
learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in
Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.
This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each
letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent
the same sounds as they do in English, below we have
listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic
words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation
‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’
‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’
‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’
‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘
‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’
‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’
‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’
‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’
‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’
‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’
‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’
‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’
‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’
‘r’ is always rolled
Polish Words & Phrases
Yes
No
Hi/Bye (informal)
Hello/Good day (formal)
Good evening (formal)
Good-bye
Good Night
Please
Thank you
Excuse me/Sorry
Tak
Nie
Cześć
Dzień dobry
Dobry wieczór
Do widzenia
Dobranoc
Proszę
Dziękuję
Przepraszam
(Tahk)
(Nyeh)
(Cheshch)
(Jen doh-bri)
(Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
(Doh veet-zen-ya)
(Doh-brah-noats)
(Prosheh)
(Jen-koo-yeh)
(Psheh-prasham)
My name is...
I’m from England.
Do you speak English?
I don’t speak Polish.
I don’t understand.
Two beers, please.
Cheers!
Where are the toilets?
You are beautiful.
I love you.
Please take me home.
Call me!
Mam na imię...
Jestem z Anglii
Czy mówisz po angielsku?
Nie mówię po polsku.
Nie rozumiem.
Dwa piwa proszę.
Na zdrowie!
Gdzie są toalety?
Jesteś piękna.
Kocham cię.
Proszę zabierz mnie
do domu.
Zadzwoń do mnie!
(Mam nah ee-myeh…)
(Yehstem zanglee)
(Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)
(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
(Dvah peevah prosheh.)
(Nah zdrovyeh!)
(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
(Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
(Ko-hahm chuh.)
(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh
doh-moo.)
(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)
Airport
Train station
Bus station
One ticket to…
Lotnisko
Dworzec PKP
Dworzec PKS
Jeden bilet do…
(Lot-nees-ko)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
(Yeh-den bee-let doh…)
April - May 2015
17
Basic History
Basic History
One of the oldest cities in Poland,
archaeological evidence proves
that there were settlements
in the Kraków area as early as
the Palaeolithic period, with
stone tools found on Wawel Hill
dating back - way, way back - to
50,000BC. Legend attributes the
city’s founding to Krakus, the
mythical ruler who vanquished
the Wawel Dragon. The
mysterious earthwork Mounds
named after Krakus and his daughter Wanda, located in
the Podgórze and Nowa Huta districts respectively, were
probably built in the 7th century. However, historians date
the settlement of Kraków’s Old Town slightly later in the
8th century, crediting it to a tribe of pagan Slavs known as
the ‘Vistulans.’ By 966, the date of the ﬁrst written record
of the city’s name, Kraków had already grown into a busy
commercial centre, thanks in part to the amber trade.
In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the
Moravians, passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule
before being incorporated into the principality of the
Piast dynasty in the 990s, thus creating the Kingdom
of Poland. The city developed rapidly, acquiring its own
bishopric in 1000, and in 1038 Kraków became the
capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle becoming
the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was
marked by incessant Mongol invasions, the ﬁrst occurring
in 1241 when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but
it was dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in
1259 and 1287. Following this last embarrassment, the
city was surrounded by 3 kilometres of defensive walls,
towers and gates which would be modernised over the
next few centuries.
Kraków particularly ﬂourished under the rule of Kazimierz
the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and
established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz which were closely connected with and would later be
incorporated into Kraków. A huge patron of the arts and
sciences, in 1364 he founded the Kraków Academy, now
known as Jagiellonian University - one of the oldest
institutions of higher learning in Europe. Prosperity
continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian Jagiello
dynasty (1386-1572) as Kraków experienced its ‘golden
age.’ Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived
from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive
new buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks,
and Wawel Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance
architecture. However, after several centuries of roaring
times the city’s fortunes began to turn with the death
of King Zygmunt II in 1572, who left no heir. With the
throne passing to the Swedish House of Vasa, Kraków’s
importance began to decline, resulting in Sigismund III’s
decision to move the Polish capital to Warsaw in 1596;
however Kraków maintained its role as the oﬃcial site of
royal coronations and burials.
18 Kraków In Your Pocket
Woodcut of Kraków from the Nuremberg Chronicle, 1493
The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the
Swedish Invasion (1655) and a bout with the ‘Black
Death’ that claimed 20,000 residents. In the late 18th
century, Poland passed the world’s second democratic
constitution (after the US) on May 3, 1791, however only
days later the country’s more militarised and expansionistminded neighbours Russia, Prussia and Austria invaded
and imposed the First Partition of Poland (1772-73) on
the weakened country; a second partition transpired
twenty years later. Kraków developed a reputation as a
bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in 1794,
Polish freedom-ﬁghter Tadeusz Kościuszko initiated
his famous Insurrection on Kraków’s market square; it
eventually failed and the Prussians soon stepped into
the city to loot the entire royal treasury. Poland was
partitioned a third time (1795) and Kraków became part
of the Austrian province of Galicia.
Thanks to Napoleon, the city ﬂirted with various forms
of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being
absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation
Kraków’s fortiﬁed city walls were levelled - with the notable
exceptions of the section around the Floriańska Gate and
the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where
they once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that
imposed in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and
as a result Kraków became a centre of Polish nationalism,
culture and art during the pre-war ‘ﬁn de siecle’ era. The city
was also modernised during this time with running water,
electricity and the ﬁrst electric streetcars (1901) all being
installed ahead of Warsaw in the ﬁrst decade of the 20th
century.
View of Rynek Główny and the Cloth Hall, 1870
krakow.inyourpocket.com
When the First World War broke out, Kraków was
besieged by Russian troops forcing many residents to
ﬂee the city. Kraków became the ﬁrst Polish city liberated
from Austrian rule on October 31st, 1918 when a
planned revolt against the Austrian garrison in Podgórze
freed the city in advance of the war’s end. The Treaty
of Versailles would establish the ﬁrst sovereign Polish
state in over a century, however twenty years later in
September 1939, Nazi German forces entered Kraków,
setting up command of their ‘General Government’ (the
Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be
puriﬁed and incorporated into the Rhineland) in Wawel
Castle. Over 150 professors from Jagiellonian University
were rounded up and shipped to concentration camps
in what is known as ‘Sonderaktion Krakau.’ The Jewish
population was ejected from Kazimierz into a ghetto
in the Podgórze district, with the Liban and Płaszów
work and concentration camps close by. The Jewish
ghetto, whose population ﬂuctuated between 15,000
and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants
shot where they stood, sent to work in Płaszów or sent to
their deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Kraków was liberated
on January 18th 1945, with the architectural fabric of the
city miraculously coming through the Soviet oﬀensive
almost completely intact.
Jewish captives, assembled for slave labour, 1939.
Following WWII, the dubious process of ‘Sovietisation’
began, and the district of Nowa Huta was built around
the country’s largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an
attempt to weaken Kraków’s intellectual and artistic
heritage through industrialisation. Almost forty-ﬁve
years of communism followed, including a year and a
half of martial law, before the Solidarity independent
trade union gathered enough momentum to force free
elections in 1989 in which Lech Wałęsa became the ﬁrst
post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Kraków’s
Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the
ﬁrst UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year
Kraków’s archbishop Karol Wojtyła became the ﬁrst
non-Italian pope in 455 years. Because of its preservation,
today Kraków is arguably Poland’s most important
historical and cultural artefact. In 2013 the city was visited
by 9.25 million tourists.
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
HISTORICAL TIMELINE
966: First written record of the city
1000: Kraków bishopric established
1038: Kraków becomes the capital of Poland
1257: Kraków granted municipal rights
1320: The ﬁrst royal coronation in Wawel Cathedral:
King Władysław the Short
1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of the
Wisła River
1364: Jagiellonian University founded
1386: Kraków wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and
Lithuanian grand duke Jagiello creates the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw
1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city
1683: King Jan III Sobieski leads his Polish army from
Kraków to Vienna, defeating the Turks and
saving Christian Europe
1734: Final coronation in Wawel Cathedral: King
August III
1791: The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First
Partition of Poland follows
1794: Prussian army captures Kraków after the failed
Kościuzko Uprising
1796: Kraków becomes part of Austrian Galicia after
the Third Partition of Poland
1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe
1939: Nazi occupation begins
1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in Podgórze
1942: Płaszów concentration camp established in
Podgórze
1943: Liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto
1945: Kraków ‘liberated’ by the Soviet Army
1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta
1978: Kraków’s Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz
added to the UNESCO World Heritage List; Karol
Wojtyła inaugurated as Pope John Paul II
1981: Martial law declared in Poland
1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wałęsa wins the Nobel
Peace Prize
1989: Party-free elections in PL; Communist regime
crumbles
1999: Poland joins NATO
2000: Kraków is the ﬁrst Polish city to serve as
‘European Capital of Culture’
2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Błonia to
participate in a mass by Pope John Paul II
2004: Poland joins the European Union
2005: Pope John Paul II passes away
2010: President Lech Kaczyński and 95 other Polish
delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk,
Russia; Kaczyński and his wife Maria are
controversially buried in the Royal Crypts at
Wawel
2013: Kraków is designated oﬃcial UNESCO ‘City of
Literature’
April - May 2015
19
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
OPERA STAGES
KRAKÓW OPERA
QE-2, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, www.opera.
krakow.pl. Box oﬃce open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 2 hours
before the evening performance. Tickets 15-140zł.
Available at the box oﬃce and online.
PHILHARMONIC STAGES
KRAKÓW PHILHARMONIC
QB-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel. (+48) 12 619 87 33, www.
filharmonia.krakow.pl. Box oﬃce open 10:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 1 hour before the performance.
Closed Mon. Tickets 10-80zł.
THEATRE STAGES
GROTESKA THEATRE
QA-2/3, ul. Skarbowa 2, tel. (+48) 12 633 37 62, www.
groteska.pl. Box oﬃce open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 19:00;
Sat 14:00 - 19:00, Sun 2 hours before the performance.
Tickets 15-40zł.
SŁOWACKI THEATRE
QD-2, Pl. Św. Ducha 1, tel. (+48) 12 424 45 25, www.
slowacki.krakow.pl. Box oﬃce open 09:00 - 14:00, 14:30
- 19:00; Mon 10:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 18:00; Sun depending
on repertoire. Tickets 15-80zł.
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ART GALLERIES
INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE
QC-3, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11,
www.mck.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 14zł. Tue, Wed between
10:00 and 11:00 admission 1zł.
PALACE OF THE ARTS
QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16, www.
palac-sztuki.krakow.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 10/5zł. N
POSTER GALLERY
QC-3, ul. Stolarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.
cracowpostergallery.com. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
STARMACH GALLERY
QJ-4, ul. Węgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12 656 43 17, www.
starmach.eu. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Admission free.
CINEMAS
CINEMA CITY GALERIA KAZIMIERZ
QJ-3, ul. Podgórska 34, tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, www.
cinema-city.pl. Box oﬃce open 10:00 - 22:30. Tickets 16-30zł.
20 Kraków In Your Pocket
IMAX KRAKÓWQL-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290
90 90, www.kinoimax.pl. Box oﬃce open 30 minutes
before the ﬁrst showtime to 15 minutes after the last
showtime. Tickets 23-34zł.
KINO POD BARANAMIQC-3, Rynek Główny 27, tel.
(+48) 12 423 07 68, www.kinopodbaranami.pl. Box
oﬃce open 45 minutes before the ﬁrst showtime until 15
minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 11.90-20zł. N
CULTURAL CENTRES
BRITISH COUNCILQC-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48)
12 428 59 30, www.britishcouncil.pl. Open 08:30 - 19:00,
Sat 09:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun.
GOETHE INSTITUTEQC-3, Rynek Główny 20, tel. (+48)
12 422 69 02, www.goethe.de/krakau. Institute open 10:00
- 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library open 11:00
- 18:00; Mon, Wed 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.
NOWA HUTA CULTURAL CENTREQO-4, Al. Jana
Pawła II 232, tel. (+48) 12 644 02 66, www.nck.krakow.
pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
ROTUNDAQH-3, ul. Oleandry 1, tel. (+48) 12 633 35 38,
www.rotunda.pl. Box oﬃce open 16:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun
depending on repertoire. Tickets depending on repertoire.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
STARY TEATR
QC-3, ul. Jagiellońska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 40 40, www.
stary.pl. Box oﬃce open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun
1 hour before the performance. Closed Mon. Tickets 1550zł. Y
BALLET
19.04 SUNDAY
DON QUIXOTE - THE LVIV OPERA & BALLET
This is a ballet based on the ﬁrst two chapters of Miguel
de Cervantes’s novel Don Quixote de la Mancha, with music
by Austrian composer Ludwig Minkus and choreography
by French ballet master Marius Petipa. Modern productions
are based on a 1900 version staged by Russian ballet
choreographer Alexander Gorsky for the Bolshoy Theatre
in Moscow. In Poznań, Don Quixote will be performed by
The Lviv Opera and Ballet, a Ukrainian theatre with with
a 115 year tradition.QB-4, Kraków Philharmonic, ul.
Zwierzyniecka 1. Event starts at 15:00. Tickets 120140zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria
Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00).
More events online:
krakow.inyourpocket.com
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
April - May 2015
21
Culture & Events
DRAGONS PARADE
30.05 SATURDAY  31.05 SUNDAY
THE GREAT DRAGONS PARADE
If you know anything about Kraków, you know the
legend of the Wawel dragon, a dreadful beast that
devoured all the livestock and terrorised the city until a
brave tailor fed it sulphur covered in sheepskin, causing
the monster to drink and drink and drink until it burst
into a million pieces. Though similar legends abound
(exchange sulphur for lime and a tailor for a butcher,
and you’ve got yourself the tale of the Brno dragon),
Poles are very attached to their Smok Wawelski, which
is why this festival caught on so well (hey, fourteen
years means you’re doing something right!). The main
attraction is Saturday night’s extravaganza on the river,
during which ﬂying dragons battle it out to a backdrop
of lasers, ﬁreworks and music for a crowd of hundreds.
It’s free, and have to see it if you’re in town; we strongly
urge you to get there early, however, so you can stake
out a comfortable spot to see this spectacle. There are
more events planned over the course of the two days
of course, and here’s the full programme:
Outdoor Show on the Vistula River
30.05. at 22:00, bend of the river beneath Wawel Castle
This light and sound spectacle will involve ﬁreworks,
music, water curtains, and huge ﬂoating and hovering
dragons (up to 25m in length and 15m in height).
The majestic creatures will be animated by Groteska
Theatre actors situated on barges, and the whole aﬀair
is one of the most popular, unique and exciting events
of the season; don’t miss it.
Dragon Parade
31.05., ul. Grodzka toward the Main Square
Enjoy the lively and colourful throng of dragons and
cheer for your favourite one. Last year over thirty artistic
creations animated by over one thousand children
paraded the streets.
Family Picnic
30.05. and 31.05., Vistula River boulevards near the
Dragon’s Den (B-5)
These two day-long events will include contests, shows
and performances, music and dance troupes, and outdoor
family fun in general.Qwww.paradasmokow.pl.
22 Kraków In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
CONCERTS
17.04 FRIDAY
ROBBIE WILLIAMS
Not to be confused with the late Robin Williams, Robbie
is an English singer-songwriter from Stoke-on-Trent. He
started his career at age sixteen as a member of pop group
Take That, but he’s being quite successful ﬂying solo. And
by quite successful, we mean he’s amassed seventeen
BRIT awards - more than any other artist. Respect.QA/B7, Tauron Arena Kraków, ul. Stanisława Lema 7. Concert
starts at 18:00. Tickets 249-559zł. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia
5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
25.04 SATURDAY
CHARLIE WINSTON
British “Like a Hobo” artist Charlie Winston is on tour to
promote his fourth studio album Curio City. His most
dedicated fans are in France (for some reason or other),
but he can count on a warm welcome in Poland as well
- he concerted here a number of times already.QK-4,
Fabryka, ul. Zabłocie 23. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
90zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria
Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00).
25.04 SATURDAY
THE CINEMATIC ORCHESTRA
The Cinematic Orchestra are a British electronica/nu-jazz
group founded sixteen years ago by Jason Swinscoe.
Their sound employs a live band improvising alongside
electronic samples and a turntablist. They have released
only three studio albums so far: Motion (1999), Every
Day (2002), and Ma Fleur (2007).QG-2, Studio Club, ul.
Budryka 4. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 99zł. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1,
ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
26.04 SUNDAY
IMANY
French-African singer Imany (real name Nadia Mladjao) is
the next revelation on the French music scene after Zaz.
The folk and soul artist was born in Martigues to parents
from the Comoro Islands, and spent seven years modelling
in the States before choosing to pursue a music career
back in Europe. Her debut album, Shape of a Broken Heart
(named after a picture she drew of the African continent),
was released in 2011 and went triple-platinum in Poland.
QH-2, Auditorium Maximum, ul. Krupnicza 33. Concert
starts at 18:30. Tickets 120-150zł. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul.
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
14.05 THURSDAY
SONATA ARCTICA
More Finnish metal! Yes, there’s always more. Hailing
from icy Lapland (also home of Santa Claus), Sonata
Arctica have been around since 1995, originally under
krakow.inyourpocket.com
the name Tricky Beans, later changed to Tricky Means.
They recently celebrated the 15th anniversary of their
debut album Ecliptica with Ecliptica: Revisited.QK-4,
Fabryka, ul. Zabłocie 23. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets
90zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria
Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00).
28.05 THURSDAY
ANDRÉ RIEU & ORCHESTRA TOUR
André Rieu is here with his Johann Strauss Orchestra,
and their main thing, as you’d expect, is the waltz; it’s a
form André decided to pursue after his university-age
performance of Franz Lehár’s Gold and Silver Waltz was
very warmly received. The Orchestra was founded by
the conductor and violinist in 1987, and has expanded
several times from its original twelve members,
touring around Europe, North America, and Japan,
and winning two World Music Awards in the process.
QA/B-7, Tauron Arena Kraków, ul. Stanisława
Lema 7. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 190-490zł.
Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria
Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00).
15
TH
THE GREAT
DRAGONS
PARADE
30-31 MAY
CRACOW, 2015
30.05 SATURDAY
SELAH SUE
Sanne Putseys (stage name Selah Sue) is a Belgian singersongwriter and guitarist who does reggae, R&B, and soul.
She released her debut self-titled album in 2011, which
proved a big success, going quadruple platinum in Belgium
and gold in Poland. A new song, “Alone”, came out in
October of last year, and fans are about to get their album
no. 2 - Reason is coming out March 30th.QG-2, Studio
Club, ul. Budryka 4. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 85110zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria
Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00).
EXHIBITIONS
20.02 FRIDAY  05.07 SUNDAY
ENTER THE DRAGON. CHINESE ART IN THE
NATIONAL MUSEUM IN KRAKÓW COLLECTION
Four hundred of the best artefacts from the museum’s
priceless 3000-piece collection - the oldest dating back
2200 years. There will be paintings and prints, Buddhist
sculptures, china and pottery, clothing, jewellery, fans,
musical instruments, toys, and glassware.QH-3, National
Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, www.mnk.
pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Tickets 15/9zł, family ticket 22zł.
03.03 TUESDAY  03.05 SUNDAY
CLOCKS IN THE WAWEL ROYAL CASTLE
COLLECTION
When you think of artefacts that would likely be in the
Royal Collection, things like artworks, jewellery, and
ﬁne china come to mind. Clocks? Maybe not so much.
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www.groteska.pl
www.paradasmokow.pl
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April - May 2015
23
Culture & Events
INT. CULTURAL CENTRE
Photo by P. Mazur.
Temporary art exhibitions spotlighting foreign visionaries,
cities or cultures typically ﬁll this major gallery on the
market square.QC-3, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12
424 28 11, www.mck.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 14zł. Tue,
Wed between 10:00 and 11:00 admission 1zł.
28.03 SATURDAY  07.06 SUNDAY
TRACES OF PEOPLE
Two artists with diﬀerent viewpoints doing a type of
exchange - Brazilian photographer Cristiano Mascaro
visited and photographed four Polish cities (Gdańsk,
Warsaw, Łódź, Kraków), while Polish artist Sławomir
Rumiak concentrated on taking pictures of São Paulo.
See how they captured each other’s homelands.
exhibition
Culture & Events
And yet the Wawel Castle has amassed over ninety
timepieces since the 1920s, when renovations - and
deliberations over what to display in the castle - began. The
collection includes 16th-century table clocks, 18th-century
French wall clocks, and 19th-century pocket watches.
QB-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 22 422 51 55 ext.219, www.
wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 5zł. Admission free with a
ticket from State Rooms & Royal Private Apartments.
02.04 THURSDAY  10.05 SUNDAY
JULIUSZ JONIAK 2011-2015
This Polish painter was born in Lviv in 1925; after WWII he
studied at the Kraków Academy of Fine Arts, where he’d
eventually become a professor. His landscapes are painted
in a style reminiscent of Paul Cézanne’s, but the artist also
does a fair amount of colorful still lives.QB-2, Palace of
the Arts, Pl. Szczepański 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16, www.
palac-sztuki.krakow.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 10/5zł.
ICC GALLERY
Kraków, Rynek Główny 25
Tuesday–Sunday,
10 a.m.–6 p.m.
24 Kraków In Your Pocket
23.05 SATURDAY  24.05 SUNDAY
FORUM FOOD CAMP
Food trucks seem to be all the range now, and we certainly
approve - Polish street food needs to step its game up. For
two days this May, food trucks from around Poland will be
serving delicious and cheap food at Forum Przestrzenie.
Smacznego!QI-4, Forum Przestrzenie, ul. Marii Konopnickiej
28, tel. (+48) 514 34 29 39, www.forumprzestrzenie.com.
Open Sat 14:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
GLASS FORMING SHOWS
See beautiful glass creations come alive before your eyes at
the Glass and Ceramics Centre on ul. Lipowa. Skilled artisans
will be demonstrating the ﬁve stages of glass forming and
answering all your questions. Check out the exhibition when
you’re there, as well.QK-4, Lipowa Gallery, ul. Lipowa 3,
tel. (+48) 12 423 67 90, www.lipowa3.pl. Open 10:00 16:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. Tickets 14/12zł.
SPORT
FESTIVALS
18.04 SATURDAY  30.04 THURSDAY
YOUNG AND OLD TOGETHER - JAZZ IN KRAKÓW
The Young and Old Festival is taking place for the 21st
time, and this year’s guests include David Sanborn, Dave
Douglas, Piotr Wojtasik, and Adam Pierończyk. It all ends on
UNESCO’s International Jazz Day, April 30th, with concerts,
workshops, meet-and-greets, and other accompanying
events.QEvent takes place in various locations, www.
jazz.krakow.pl. Full schedule available at www.jazz.
krakow.pl. Tickets 20-120zł. Available at InfoKraków
(C-3, ul. Św. Jana 2; open 10:00 - 18:00. From May open
09:00 - 19:00).
24.04 FRIDAY  26.04 SUNDAY
NAVIGATOR FESTIVAL
This is a festival for people focused on navigating the world simply put, travelers. The programme includes lectures and
presentations about fascinating travel experiences, culinary
workshops, rock climbing with professional instructors, and
a book/map fair.QO-4, Nowa Huta Cultural Centre, Al.
Jana Pawła II 232, www.navigatorfestival.pl. Admission
free.
Traces of People
Cristiano Mascaro
Sławomir Rumiak
MISC. EVENTS
14.05 THURSDAY  14.06 SUNDAY
PHOTOMONTH
This annual month-long event, now in its 13th year, is one
of the largest photography festivals in Europe. Beginning in
mid-May many of the city’s best galleries, cafes, museums,
cultural centres, and even more unique locations like public
parks, private ﬂats, and post-industrial spaces, will be ﬁlled
with dozens of individual and collective photo exhibitions.
This year, the theme is conﬂict. Check the website for
up-to-date information about meetings, workshops, ﬁlm
screenings, and other accompanying events.QEvent takes
place in various locations, www.photomonth.com.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
19.04 SUNDAY
CRACOVIA MARATHON
Lace up your running shoes and put your stamina to the
test! The 14th Cracovia Marathon will start on the Main
Square and take you through city streets on both sides of
the Vistula River. Not only can you use all that training, it’s
also a great opportunity to interact with the locals and make
your visit truly unique. It’s April, so the weather won’t get
too hot.QC-3, Rynek Główny, www.cracoviamaraton.pl.
Event starts at 09:00. Registration fee 80-200zł.
19.04 SUNDAY  25.04 SATURDAY
ICE HOCKEY WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP
If you’re Canadian and visiting Kraków in April, fear not
- there is ice hockey to be had. This year’s top division
championship will be hosted in the Czech Republic, but
Division I A games will take place right here at the Tauron
Arena. Sure, these might not be the best teams - we’re
talking Hungary, Japan, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, Poland, and
Italy - but there’ll still be plenty of action.QA/B-7, Tauron
Kraków Arena, ul. Stanisława Lema 7. Tickets 40-120zł,
pass 240-720zł. Available at ebilet.pl.
30.05 SATURDAY
HISTORIC AUTOMOBILE RALLY
The new Automobil Hotel in Podgórze, in partnership with
Katowice’s Old Timer’s Garage, is hosting this inaugural rally
around Małopolska for antique cars from the years 19461985. The race begins at 10:30 when the restored historic
vehicles will set oﬀ on a course from the hotel to Wieliczka
to Łapanów, and back to Kraków for a ﬁnish at about 16:10
(results announced at 18:00). In addition to the participating
vehicles, an exhibit of historic cars will be on show at the
hotel all afternoon, plus other motor mania attractions.
QAutomobil Hotel, ul. Płk. Dąbka 13 (Podgórze), tel.
(+48) 665 99 99 04, www.automobilhotel.pl.
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
April - May 2015
25
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
CRACOWCONCERTS.COM
LIVE MUSIC
CHOPIN CONCERTS IN THE LEGENDARY
WIERZYNEK RESTAURANT
These special celebrations of Chopin’s musical legacy
run throughout the year and are performed by gifted
members of the Kraków Music Academy, many of whom
are laureates from international piano contests. The
programme is as varied as you like, approaching the great
man’s work from a number of perspectives. A must for all
fans.QC-3, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00,
www.newculture.pl. Concerts take place Wed-Sun at
19:00; from May concerts are every day. Tickets 60/40zł,
VIP 220zł. Available at City Information Point (ul. Św.
Jana 2, C-3) and at the venue before the concert begins.
CHOPIN CONCERTS
AT THE BONEROWSKI PALACE
Enjoy the music of Poland’s greatest composer,
Fryderyk Chopin, as performed by pianists Witold
Wilczek, Weronika Krówka, Dobrochna Krówka,
Kazuko Tsuji and others. Glass of wine is included
in the price. Concerts begin each day at 19:00, but
note that on Mondays concerts take place at Chopin
Gallery, ul. Sławkowska 14 (C-2).QC-3, ul. Św. Jana 1,
tel. (+48) 604 09 35 70, www.cracowconcerts.com.
Tickets 55zł, available before the concerts.
CLASSICAL, OPERA, FILM & TANGO:
THE BEST CONCERTS IN CRACOW
The Royal Chamber Orchestra is made up of
outstanding musicians, many of whom are Kraków
Academy of Music alumni. St Adalbert’s is said to be
the oldest church in Kraków and, thanks to its Baroque
dome, provides unique acoustics. Concerts take place
every other day, on odd days of the month at 18:00.
QC-3, St. Adalbert’s Church, Rynek Główny, tel.
(+48) 604 09 35 70, www.cracowconcerts.com.
Tickets 65zł. Available from 10:00 in front of the
church.
FOLK SHOW
This famous secessionist cafe is a great place to
encounter Polish folk culture during these 90-minute
performances on Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun beginning
at 19:00. Enjoy traditional Polish food while being
entertained by a local orchestra, folk dancers, and the
legendary Lajkonik himself.QD-2, Jama Michalika,
ul. Floriańska 45, tel. (+48) 604 09 35 70, www.
cracowconcerts.com. Tickets 85zł, available at Jama
Michalika every day from 09:00.
KLEZMER MUSIC
Enjoy Jewish klezmer concerts performed by local
virtuosos on Saturdays at 18:00.QC-2, Klezmer Music
Venue, ul. Sławkowska 14, tel. (+48) 604 09 35 70,
www.cracowconcerts.com. Tickets 50zł, available
before the concerts.
26 Kraków In Your Pocket
krakow.inyourpocket.com
CLASSICAL AND FILM MUSIC
AT ST. PETER & PAUL’S CHURCH
A chance to hear a wonderful series of concerts in the
breathtaking surroundings of St. Peter & Paul’s. The
event begins at 20.00 every Mon, Tue and Thu and one
can expect to hear a mixture of baroque, romance and
ﬁlm music all performed by the Cracow City Orchestra.
QC-4, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www.
newculture.pl. Tickets 60/40zł. Available at City
Information Point (ul. Św. Jana 2, C-3) and at the
venue before the concert begins.
CRACOW KLEZMER CONCERTS
AT THE ISAAC SYNAGOGUE
An artistic attempt to preserve the Jewish heritage of
Kazimierz, these concerts are performed by the Tempero.
Consisting of professional musicians, all graduates of
the Cracow Music University, not only are they skilled at
klezmer and other Jewish music, they have a modern
approach to chamber music. All concerts take place at the
Isaac Synagogue, one of the best preserved and largest
synagogues in the country.QE-6, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48)
602 85 09 00, www.newculture.pl. Concerts take place
every Tue, Thu and Sun at 18:00; from May concerts
take place Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu and Sun at 18:00. Tickets
60/40zł. Available at City Information Point (ul. Św. Jana
2, C-3) and at the venue before the concert begins.
Every Day
except of Friday
and Saturday
Time: 6. pm
KRAKOW FOLK SHOW
So you’ve seen the castle, strolled through the Main
Square, eaten yourself into a pierogi coma - but
something seems missing? All you need is a little Polish
folk to wrap your experience up. Head over to Tradycyja
Restaurant to see the most popular Polish folk dances
like oberek, mazurek, polonaise, kujawiak, and krakowiak
(we’re in Kraków, after all!) and enjoy the beautiful
traditional costumes.QC-3, Tradycyja Restaurant,
Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www.
newculture.pl. Performances take place Wed and Sat
at 19:00; from May concerts take place Wed, Fri and
Sat at 19:00. Tickets 60zł. Tickets with dinner included
120zł. Available at City Information Point (ul. Św. Jana
2, C-3) and at the venue before the concert begins.
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
April - May 2015
27
Restaurants
Restaurants
SYMBOL KEY
G No smoking
T Child-friendly
6 Animal friendly
N Credit cards not accepted
S Take away
U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery
X Smoking room available
I Fireplace
W Wi-ﬁ connection
E Live music
B Outside seating
AMERICAN
Auuberg
ergine
i Dine & Wine
Wine
ne, revi
revi
v ew oonn pag
vi
p e 411..
With the development of the market in Krakow the number
of places to eat is now extremely wide, and while the city’s
culinary rep is improving all the time, its restaurants are still
waiting for starry-eyed acceptance from a certain French
tyre company. That said, there are more good restaurants
to visit in this town than you could possibly ﬁt in one trip,
so fear not, you won’t have to eat tyres.
While our print guide carries a wide selection of Kraków’s
most noteworthy restaurants, there are many, many more
listed on our website (krakow.inyourpocket.com), where
we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places
you’ve visited. All IYP reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The ﬁgures we quote in
brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses
on the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by
the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can
expect the chef to be working. Smacznego!
SPLURGE
Wierzynek (Polish) is Kraków’s oldest and most upscale
restaurant, right on the Rynek. Close behind is Pod
Aniołami (Polish), while the sophisticated wine lists
and seasonal cuisine of Copernicus and Trzy Rybki
(International) are also both bankable for your best meal
while in town. Szara (International) - with locales on both
the market square and in Kazimierz - also never disappoints.
CHEAP
A Polish milk bar (see p.48) is as cheap as you’ll eat
anywhere in your life, but for a pinch of atmosphere try
Smakołyki. If you’re not a fan of Polish food, Alebriche Kraków’s Mexican eatery - is excellent and super aﬀordable.
28 Kraków In Your Pocket
LADS
Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like a king for
pauper prices in local breweries CK Browar or Stara
Zajezdnia (see p.58), or try Sukiennice Kompania
Kuﬂowa (Polish) where you can enjoy watching whoever’s
walking the runway of Kraków’s Rynek while clinking
steins. To literally recieve a bib with your food, order the
ribs at Rzeźnia (American), and catch the match while
you’re there.
FAMILIES
More and more places in Kraków now have things like
changing tables, high chairs, and play corners - look for the
Child-Friendly symbol at the end of each listing. Nothing in
town beats Pod Wawelem (Polish), however, which has a
huge rumpus room for kids and food that they’ll eat.
COUPLES
Kraków is a marvellous backdrop for romance and you
shouldn’t have to search far for ‘the perfect place.’ Make a
reservation in ZaKładka (French), Destino, Guliwer (both
Mediterranean), Pod Nosem (Polish) or Aqua e Vino
(Italian) and let the atmosphere do the rest.
SPECIAL DIET
For vegans and vegetarians (see p.53) the street of choice
in the Old Town is ul. Krupnicza (A-2), where you’ll ﬁnd
Karma (see p.54), Pod Norenami and Ramen Girl
(Asian); or head to Plac Wolnica in Kazimierz (D-7), where
you’ll ﬁnd Cafe Młynek and Nova Krova. For traditional
Polish food that’s assuredly gluten-free, head to Pod
Baranem.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
GRANDE GRILL
Contrasting with the inﬂexible traditionalism of
Wierzynek, this fresher eﬀort from the same team
behind Kraków’s most famous restaurant balances
modern styling and cuisine with its medieval setting.
The year-round garden packed with plants hanging
from timber beams has long been regarded as one of
the best in town, and the stylish indoor dining area only
enhances it. The menu is a simple selection of steaks,
salads and burgers, all expertly made-to-order with the
kind of service you would expect from the city’s most
established restaurateurs.QC-3, Rynek Główny 16, tel.
(+48) 12 424 96 21, www.grandegrill.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (18-115zł). TUGBSW
HARD ROCK CAFE
The international Hard Rock Cafe chain has set up shop on
some of the city’s most hallowed ground next to St. Mary’s
Basilica. Inside you’ll ﬁnd an absurdly large number of
staﬀ members milling around amongst rock memorabilia
including a pair of Elton John’s spectacles to an unplayable
home-made guitar from Polish legends T. Love. Featuring a
modern interior stacked over three levels, stop by to enjoy
a juicy burger while gazing at a scarf John Lennon once
wore.QC-3, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12
429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 12:00 23:30. (20-90zł). TUGW
MOABURGER
Like most things from New Zealand, Moaburger is very
proud, making it clear from the kiwi iconography and info
all over the interior that this is a NZ take on the classic
American burger and shake shack. As far as the food goes,
they’ve certainly super-sized it: burgers come served on a
tray (a plate just wouldn’t do) piled high with the topping
of your choice, and you might even consider splitting one
with a friend if you have any other meals planned later in the
day. Easy to eat and darn enjoyable, though you’ll discover
it’s not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries
and a drink coming in over 30zł. Still, this is Kraków’s most
popular burger joint.QD-3, ul. Mikołajska 3, tel. (+48) 12
421 21 44, www.moaburger.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (11-28zł). T6GSW
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
DECODING THE MENU
Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing
while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re
likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!
(Enjoy your meal!)
śniadania
zupa
przystawki
dania główne
dodatki
ziemniaki
kapusta
ser
chleb
warzywa
owoce
mięso
kurczak
wieprzowina
wołowina
ryba
deser
ciasto
lody
napoje
kawa
piwo
breakfast
soup
appetisers
main dishes
side dishes
potatoes
cabbage
cheese
bread
vegetables
fruit
meat
chicken
pork
beef
ﬁsh
dessert
cake
ice cream
drinks
coﬀee
beer
TIPPING TRIBULATIONS
Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal
to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll
be horriﬁed to learn that in Poland uttering the word
‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication
that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural
slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the
waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the
fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money
back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of
your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are
happy for the waitstaﬀ to keep all the change. Otherwise
we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when
handing back the bill and the payment.
Despite the fact that most waitstaﬀ in PL are only paid
in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more
than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner
may make the staﬀ expectant of a bit more generosity).
As such, we encourage you to reward good service
when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually
unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because
waitstaﬀ are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you
won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have
some change or small bills handy in order to leave your
server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change.
April - May 2015
29
Restaurants
BREAKFAST
ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI
One of the best places in Kraków to start your day is also
the same place you ended it. This modest addendum to
the legendary Alchemia bar has one of the most enticing
breakfast menus in town, including chorizo hashbrowns,
eggs benedict, eggs ﬂorentine and delicious American
pancakes.QD-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 882 04 42 99,
www.odkuchni.com. Breakfast served 08:00 - 12:00;
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. (9-19zł). GSW
BAGELMAMA
Kazimierz’s favourite bagel spot, with a range of
diﬀerent toppings and cream cheeses, drip coﬀee,
wraps, homemade soups and more - served all day,
naturally.QE-6, ul. Dajwór 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16
46, www.bagelmama.com. Breakfast served 09:00 18:30. (4-20zł). T6GSW
CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO
Early risers won’t ﬁnd any better place in the Old Town
than Charlotte, which oﬀers great coﬀee, fresh bread,
pastries, a variety of breakfast sets and a wonderful
atmosphere all day. High ceilinged and full of natural
light from wall-length windows overlooking Plac
Szczepański this is a great place to read the paper,
open the laptop or slowly unwind the day ahead of
you.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80,
www.bistrocharlotte.com. Breakfast served 07:00 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (8-18zł).
6GBSW
MILKBAR TOMASZA
With half the menu devoted to early morning eats,
Milk Bar is an astute place to start the day. Select from
a range of scrambled, fried, and even poached(!) egg
platters, crepes and paninis, and their excellent Irish
breakfast, served all day.QD-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 24, tel.
(+48) 12 422 17 06. Breakfast served 08:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (10-18zł). TUGSW
SCANDALE ROYAL
Mornings in Scandale Royal feature a full breakfast
buﬀet, or order a la carte and choose from two pages of
exciting breakfast options, including eggs, omelettes,
pancakes, and a solid English breakfast. If you consider
breakfast a proper meal, this is one of the best places
in town to go.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12
422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Breakfast served 07:30
- 13:00. (11-27zł). UBSW
30 Kraków In Your Pocket
RZEŹNIA - RIBS ON FIRE
This small ‘meatery’ oﬀers a concise menu of carnivore
cravings - tartar, blood pudding, sausage and ribs, with
sides of fries and slaw, and a good selection of bottled
beers. Though that sounds like something you’d ﬁnd
written on the side of a food truck, this place has more
class than that with a red-ﬂecked interior that looks
could pass for a Spanish tapas bar in a pinch, and a huge
ﬂatscreen tele so the lads can watch league action. Order
the ribs (no, really - order the ribs) and you get the entire
rack, not a sawn-oﬀ section, and we guarantee you’ll be
sucking the bones clean. The coleslaw is also the best
we’ve had in this cabbage crazy country. Tuck in your bib
(they’ll provide you with one) and give this a try.QD6, ul. Bożego Ciała 14, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 96, www.
restauracjarzeznia.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (15-40zł).
UGW
WELL DONE
With “B.B.Q. & Whisky” emblazoned above the door, this
corner bar and restaurant has the hallmarks of American
cuisine (ranch dressing, corndogs, buﬀalo wings,
corn on the cob and more), but it seems a trip to the
Deep South is still required to really understand what
American BBQ is all about. Well Done is more of a steak
and burger joint, and they do that as well as anyone,
with great homemade fries on the side. The menu also
includes pancakes with maple syrup all day long for only
10zł, and a dessert list of large chocolate-chip cookies,
brownies and carrot cake. The casual, retro-cool, pastel
interior with touches of Warhol and Lichtenstein, plus
the stellar soundtrack of early rock, soul and doo-wop,
also make this a certiﬁably hip place to hang out and
slurp the cheapest Jack & Cokes (9zł!) in Kraków. Maybe
not the back-home barbecue place we long for, but Well
Done indeed; we’ll be back.QD-7, ul. Mostowa 2, tel.
(+48) 607 13 20 01. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Mon 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (5-60zł).
T6GBSW
ASIAN
NINE KITCHEN
When stacked against its ample competition, this modern
sushi and Asian fusion restaurant has plenty going for it.
The menu is easily parsable rather than overwhelming,
with sound English translations of their enticing entrees
(including a solid tuna steak for 41zł) and sharable dishes for
under 30zł. In addition to all the sushi standards, NINE also
oﬀers no less than 15 signature rolls of their own creation.
Making it all the more pleasing is a relaxing atmosphere
and some nifty design touches including walls lined with
birch tree trunks, Lost Army wallpaper, and innovative light
ﬁxtures. Overall, the prices are a bit below-market across
the board, and that’s not to say that you wouldn’t want to
bring your business partners and dates here, but rather you should.QD-6, ul. Miodowa 9, tel. (+48) 536 70 57
06, www.ninekitchen.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. (8-35zł). T6UGSW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
La Fontaine
Full Center – Old Town
The best of the french cusine
Tel: +48 12 431 09 30 /48 12 422 65 64
www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl
lafontaine@lafontaine.com.pl
DISHING UP HISTORY
With a past that stretches back several centuries
Kraków’s Old Town is a breathing history lesson, and
it’s not hard to unsuspectingly find yourself doing
your boozing and dining inside a part of history.
The most famous restaurant in town is Wierzynek
(Rynek Główny 16, p.52) whose opening in 1364
was attended by five kings and nine princes. The
occasion was to stop Europe from going to war,
though by all accounts the congress turned into a
21-day marathon of feasting and binge drinking.
The restaurant has been drawing big names ever
since, with Spielberg, Castro and Daddy Bush being
a only a few.
Drink in more modern history in the Noworolski
Café (Rynek Główny 1, p.55), where Lenin liked
to entertain both his wife and his mistress; the
fabulous art nouveau motifs inside are the work
of Jozef Mehoffer, who has his own museum at ul.
Krupnicza 26 (p.79). If you like what you see there,
you’ll find a trove of art and relics from the era inside
Jama Michalika (ul. Floriańska 45, p.54), which was
the preferred meeting place of Poland’s artists and
intellectuals at the turn of the century. In 1905 they
created Poland’s first cabaret here, and the place
hasn’t changed a bit since.
32 Kraków In Your Pocket
Restaurants
RAMEN GIRL OF YELLOW DOG
If you only know ramen as the penniless students’ instant
dinner, think again. The culinary savants of Yellow Dog have
reopened as Ramen Girl, specialising in hot brothy bowls
of noodles laden with a variety of ingredients seldom seen
in this town, including tofu, tempeh, bok choy, daikon,
edamame and even kale (jarmuż). Servings come in two
generous sizes, but note that when supplemented with
a side, a select microbrew, and one of their ﬂavour fusion
desserts, things here do get pricey. Still, the black ramen
with squid ink is something you simply have to try, and
the modern-minimal interior with its huge mural and
large street-side windows make this a surprisingly stylish
dining destination.QA-2, ul. Krupnicza 9/1, tel. (+48)
730 00 94 98. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (20-60zł).
6GSW
ZEN RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR
Kraków’s sushi boom is in full stride, and Zen outdoes
much of the competition by hitting the authentic Japanese
interior dead-on with a ﬁrst ﬂoor sushi canal where
customers snare their desired servings as they ﬂoat by;
dishes are colour-coded by cost so you can keep vague
tabs on your inﬂating tab. On the more formal second ﬂoor,
dine ala carte on traditional ﬂoor mats. The menu makes an
ironic eﬀort not to pander to purists, but rather create an
amalgam of European and Asian ingredients and ﬂavours
with dishes like duck marinated in orange and cinnamon
served with teriyaki sauce.QD-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 29,
tel. (+48) 12 426 55 55, www.zensushi.pl. Open 12:00 24:00. (30-300zł). 6UVGSW
BALKAN
NEW
BAŁKANICA 303
This relatively modest restaurant full of simple decor
and sunny coastal photos takes you on a tasting tour of
Southeast Europe - from kalamata olives and halloumi
cheese to burek and cevapcici - without overwhelming the
uninitiated. Minced meat is prevalent, including an enticing
‘Balkan Burgers’ section, and our ‘pljeskavica’ turned out to
essentially be a bunless cheeseburger with the cheese
inside the patty, served with Croatian-style potato salad;
we loved it. The homemade ajvar and tzatziki sauces are
absolutely delicious (order them extra if they don’t come
with your meal), and in addition to outstanding regional
wines, this is the only place in town where you can sample
several kinds of rakia. A nice eﬀort overall, and proof that
Kraków’s ethnic eateries are improving.QA-2, ul. Czysta
3, tel. (+48) 12 380 15 92, www.balkanica-restauracja.
pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-44zł).
TVGBSW
250+ restaurant reviews online:
krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
BRITISH
THE DORSZ BRITISH FISH & CHIPS
Breaking the hearts of their devoted fans in Łódź, this
chippy has skipped town and set up shop in Kraków. Run
by a born and bred Brit who knows his way around the
fryer, these ﬁsh and chips pass muster, and the mushy peas
are not only generously portioned, but perfect. In addition
to cod (dorsz in Polish), the menu features ﬁsh pies, prawns
and more. With ample seating downstairs and open very
late indeed, we expect The Dorsz to become the new goto for late night nosh in the Old Town as well as watching
your favorite British sports teams over beer or vodka. See
ya there, mate.QB-3, ul. Św. Anny 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 21
91, www.thedorsz.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. (10-40zł). T6UGSW
FRENCH
BON APPÉTIT
Hidden around the corner from the Old Synagogue
you’ll ﬁnd Bon Apetit - a surprising French restaurant
on a sleepy side-street. With a simple, modern interior
the emphasis here is clearly on the concise, somewhat
adventurous menu; we have to congratulate any chef
who composes a dish whose four primary ingredients are
rabbit, octopus, squid and chorizo. The duck breast proved
to be a comfortable and highly appetising alternative, and
the wine list is integral to optimising any meal. Tres bien.
QE-6, ul. Dajwór 2a, tel. (+48) 12 422 67 86, www.
bonappetitkrakow.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed
Mon. (28-49zł). TUGBW
BRASSERIE SZTUKA
Located in a former cinema and unassuming from the outside,
this appealing international oﬃng exudes class and charm
once you’ve stepped inside, and the refreshingly clear and
diverse menu encourages families, tourists and all-comers
to do just that. As the listed dishes ﬂit between French and
Polish (passing burgers and pasta along the way), vegetarian,
gluten-free, and local specialties are clearly marked, kids get
their own section, and there are also 3-course 20zł specials
oﬀered Mon-Fri from 11:30 - 17:00. Believe it or not, they
even make their own candies, and the cocktails are topnotch.QC-3, ul. Św. Jana 6, tel. (+48) 12 422 59 23. Open
11:30 - 23:00. (19-39zł). TEGBSW
LA FONTAINE
The courtyard terrace is the pick of places to eat at La
Fontaine, though the recently expanded interior of rough
hewn stone walls and brick arches has a perfectly pleasing
elegance as well when there’s a gale outside. Here delicious
French food is served by a well-trained staﬀ who actually
appear to enjoy what they do. So does the chef, clearly,
as he turns out such wonderful dishes as tournedos with
potato casserole and a bearnaise, wine, or roquefort sauce.
QC-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 64, www.
lafontaine-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-69zł).
BXW
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
WE INVITE YOU
TO OUR SUMMER GARDEN
DAJWÓR 2A - KRAKÓW
TEL. +48 12 422 67 86
WWW.BONAPPETITKRAKOW.COM.PL
April - May 2015
33
Restaurants
Restaurants
THE BEST INDIAN CUISINE IN TOWN
We invite you to enjoy our original Indian dishes.
Catering service available
Ul. Sławkowska 13-15, phone: 012 4232282, www.indus.pl, indus@indus.pl
Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00
ZAKŁADKA - FOOD & WINE
Located in a restored tenement just over the Bernatka
footbridge in Podgórze, this thoroughly classy French
bistro strikes the perfect balance of modern elegance,
exciting upscale cuisine and below market prices to make
it outrageously popular. Stud chef Rafał Targosz’s menu
includes sweetbreads, oxtail, snails, mussels, frog legs,
foie gras, chicken liver mousse, lamb tripe meatballs, veal
tongue and other exotic delicacies (as well as savoury
sandwiches and less daring dishes) at absolutely pedestrian
prices when one considers the skill of their preparation and
presentation. A perfect date destination, from the moment
you step inside Zakładka seemingly everything - from the
sharp black and white interior to the excellent food and
wine (the owner even has his own vineyard) - becomes an
aphrodisiac; make a reservation now.QJ-4, ul. Józeﬁńska
2, tel. (+48) 12 442 74 42, www.zakladkabistro.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Mon 17:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (33-44zł). TGSW
INDIAN
INDUS TANDOOR
Full of reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns, Indus’s slim
interior is bursting with colour, but it’s the spacious fabricdraped summer garden that we prefer when the weather’s
warm. The near constant line of people ﬁling in and out
speaks to the high quality of the food, and while spice
levels rarely threaten to reach volcanic, Indus is a vast
34 Kraków In Your Pocket
improvement on the ethnic experience of yesteryear. Try
the business lunch specials for a fantastic value.QC-2, ul.
Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 423 22 82, www.indus.
pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-39zł).
GBSW
INTERNATIONAL
APERITIF
This city-centre bargain features a bright, modern interior
with window seating on Mały Rynek and garden dining in
the back during the summer. While the atmosphere and
interior may invoke the sunny Mediterranean, the 9-25zł
lunch menu (Mon-Sat 12:00 - 17:00) isn’t above simple
favourites like cheeseburgers and club sandwiches. That
said, the aﬀordable dinner menu doesn’t lack for creative
muscle, and the wine list is longer than your arm. Aperitif is
an all round delight.QC-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432
33 33, www.aperitif.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (2675zł). T6UBXSW
changes every month and is kept simple by Chef Marcin
Filipkiewicz who oﬀers a tasting menu of amazing
seasonal ﬂavours; choose between 5 (180zł), 7 (240zł) or
12 courses (350zł). At Copernicus you get what you pay for,
making it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.
QC-5, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48)
12 424 34 21, www.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
TGSW
DYNIA RESTO BAR
Ultra-stylish, with an interior design that incorporates
lots of bright colours and circular patterns, but the best
spots in the house are in the large seasonal garden - an
absolutely ace spot festooned with plant life and girdled
by an ancient red brick wall. As for food, the excellent
menu has an Italian tilt, and covers all the bases, including
some solid breakfast options, a page of pumpkin dishes,
and a range of low-cal meals for those tired of popping
out of their buttons. This being Poland, you can expect
the staﬀ to look rather nice as well. Recommended.QA-2,
ul. Krupnicza 20, tel. (+48) 12 430 08 38, www.dynia.
krakow.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
(15-45zł). T6UGBSW
LA BICICLETTA
Endeavouring to be a meeting place for dining and cycling
culture, La Biciletta favours elegance over urbanism, aiming
for the spandex set, rather than the hipsters with rolledup trouser legs who are in no short supply locally. With
framed jerseys on the walls and the peloton on the tube,
this is probably one of the few places in Kazimierz that
you can walk into in your full skin-tight cycling kit and not
get a few giggles, though you’ll note it’s more attuned to
tourists with a pension upstairs and an info desk out front.
Regardless, the chef outdoes himself serving up ﬁne Polish
and European food at fair prices. Pretty much everything
on the menu is delicious, the desserts are to-die-for, and
there’s a lush garden out back in the summer.QD-6, ul.
Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 14 14, www.labicicletta.
com.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. (8-35zł). TGBSW
PLAC NOWY 1
Located in a new building buttressing Plac Nowy,
we’ll admit we initially disapproved of this project, but
we never imagined it would be pulled oﬀ with this
much elan. Adapted to its surroundings while subtly
outclassing them, Plac Nowy 1 features a lovely modern
interior full of natural light and plant life. With plenty
of space, patrons have their choice between the highceilinged main dining room, sidewalk tables, covered
patio, or mezzanine, and there’s even bowling in the
basement. The menu wanders across cuisines to follow
recent food trends (fancy burgers, tempura), but includes
uniquely modern takes on Polish classics as well, and
they put a big emphasis on craft beer, oﬀering regional
beer tasting sets. Earning wide approval, this is arguably
now the nicest place to eat on Plac Nowy.QD-6, Pl.
Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 00, www.placnowy1.pl.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. (26-65zł).
TUGBSW
COPERNICUS
Inside one of Kraków’s most exclusive hotels you’ll ﬁnd
one of its most exclusive restaurants, with high-class
service inside an elegant gothic interior that features
original frescoes. Copernicus is enthusiastically awarded
each year, and its gourmet cuisine has been enjoyed by
Nobel Prize winners (Miłosz, Szymborska) and political
dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl) alike. The menu
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Restaurants
SCANDALE ROYAL
Scandale Royal successfully skirts the line between lounge,
cafe and bistro by being one of the most stylish places to
be all day and night. In more shades of violet than we knew
possible, it nonetheless stays well-lit and inviting thanks to
wall-length windows and a massive chandelier bisecting
the two ﬂoors like a fragile ﬁre-pole. On the card you’ll ﬁnd
salads, pastas, and meat dishes to taste, with proper breakfast
in the mornings and an after 22:00 menu (featuring tapas)
late night, when everything inside from the cushions to the
clientele looks edible.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12
422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
07:30 - 02:00. (24-79zł). TUBXSW
STUDIO QULINARNE
Housed inside an old bus hangar on the site of the City
Engineering Museum, Studio Qulinarne has taken this airy
industrial interior of bricks and timbers and turned it into one
of Kraków’s most elegant dining destinations. Potted plants
and illuminated white drapes cleverly hang between ﬁne
table settings with refreshingly mismatched 18th century
chairs as a pianist plays in the main dining area, and the chefs
oversee sizzling pans in the open kitchen. The air of exclusivity
is diﬀused by wall-length windows opening onto the street
in fair weather, and the summer garden full of greenery and
futons - one of the most comfortable places for a cocktail in
town. The menu ranges from aﬀordable pasta dishes to pricey
exotic game, and we can recommend not only the venison,
but the entire experience.QE-7, ul. Gazowa 4, tel. (+48) 12
430 69 14, www.studioqulinarne.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (40-90zł). T6UEGBSW
SZARA
Enviably located right on the market square, Szara’s
reputation as one of the best restaurants in town hasn’t
wavered over the years and if you’re looking for a place
to impress guests or treat yourself to a special ‘last night
in town meal,’ this is a sure bet. Gorgeous, painted ceiling
arches, crisp linen and outstanding service create an
atmosphere of complete elegance, but Szara manages to
avoid the stuﬃness suﬀered by other venues of this ilk.
Choose from dishes like ‘Planksteak with Bearnaise sauce’
in what has come to be known as one of the cornerstones
of Kraków’s culinary scene. The separate, more modern
and casual bar just next door is a smart morning breakfast
destination (served 08:00-12:00) and cocktail bar by night,
plus in summer there’s plenty of outdoor seating. If you’re
in Kazimierz, try their second venue at ul. Szeroka 39 (E-6).
QC-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69, www.
szara.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (34-85zł). UGBSW
SZARA KAZIMIERZ
Opening after its sister establishment on the Rynek, the
second Szara achieved local legend status just as quickly.
What makes it so special is not the convenient location
on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly staﬀ, but the food:
nowhere in the city can you eat so well for so little. This is top
cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up on the blackboard
- yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple, aﬀordable and
36 Kraków In Your Pocket
very cheerful, all of Kraków should be like this.QE-6, ul.
Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429 12 19, www.szarakazimierz.
pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (24-67zł). GBSW
TRADYCYJA
Though somewhat haunted by the spectres of past incarnations
(a pizza oven in the corner goes largely unused), there’s no need
to mess with this historic market square locale, which oddly
blends old Polish aristocracy with Roman antiquity, including
a beautifully painted timber ceiling and an outrageously gaudy
chandelier (which we love for just that reason). Like the interior,
the simple menu of Polish and Italian dishes seems to have
collected the highlights of previous kitchens, but the results
cover for the sometimes uneven service, and the prices are well
within reason. Enjoy a live folk music and dance performance
every Weds, Fri and Sat from 19:00.QC-3, Rynek Główny 15,
tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16, www.tradycyja.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. (22-59zł). TUEGBSW
TRUFLA
This cosy place on Plac Szczepański sets itself apart by
oﬀering great food at the right price. A simple, predominantly
white decor with wooden furniture allows you to relax while
interpreting the stylistically pleasing yet diﬃcult to decipher
handwritten cursive menu of classic Italian dishes. The open
kitchen lets you in on the ‘creative’ cooking process and the
charming seasonal garden - with its small Japanese-style
garden - is one of the most gorgeous you’ll ﬁnd around.
With limited tables inside and out, plus Truﬂa’s loyal band
of followers, reservations might be wise.QC-2, ul. Św.
Tomasza 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 41. Open 09:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł). 6GBSW
TRZY RYBKI
Hotel Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the
interiors of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring,
balancing the modern with ﬁnely preserved details of this
ancient building. Serving ﬁne Modern European cuisine
with a Polish twist, the menu changes like the seasons - or
with them, rather, meaning a steady eﬀort from the kitchen
to use the freshest ingredients. Favoured by high-ﬂyers and
local business honchos who have been regulars for years,
this is a Kraków gem.QC-2, ul. Szczepańska 5 (Stary
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 384 08 06, www.likusrestauracje.pl.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (79-95zł). 6UGSW
VANILLA SKY
The ﬂagship restaurant of Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla Sky
is one of the city’s only restaurants to use only certiﬁed
organic ingredients, and you’ll be happily commiting to the
eco-craze once you see the menu tantalising Italian and
Polish fusion dishes like ‘beef tenderloin with ﬁg-apple jam,
roast potatoes, caramelised asparagus and cabbage.’ Set in
the centre of a spacious dining room on the hotel’s third
ﬂoor, the well-dressed tables circle a gorgeous grand piano
on which evening concerts are performed Wed - Sat, as
well as Sunday afternoons.QH-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art
Niebieski & SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanillasky.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (39-59zł). TUEGSW
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Restaurants
LATE NIGHT EATS
Scandale Royal
When it comes to late night street food, Kraków has
you covered. Though you’ll ﬁnd kebab stands all over
popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriańska and
ul. Szewska in the Old Town, your options are actually
better than that, from all night pierogi shops to the 24hr
vodka and herring bars that have sprung up all over
town (see Polish Snacks & Shots). Perhaps Poland’s
most popular street food is the ‘zapiekanka’ and the
best place to get one is out of one of the hatches of
the Plac Nowy roundhouse (D-6) which generally stay
open until at least 02:00. Required eating by any visitor,
the only late night food spot more legendary is the
Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski sidewalk sausage stand.
KIELBASKI Z NIEBIESKIEJ NYSKI
This legendary sidewalk sausage stand has been a
Cracovian street food institution for over twenty years.
Here two old boys in white smocks set up shop outside
their blue Nyska (a Soviet model van) every evening
except Sundays to grill kiełbasa sausages over a wood
ﬁred stove for the hungry, drunken masses. For 8zł
you get a delicious sausage, slightly stale roll, ketchup,
mustard and an unforgettable experience. Don’t miss it
if you’re in the neighbourhood.QE-4, ul. Grzegórzecka
(Hala Targowa). Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
SCANDALE ROYAL
This sexy lounge and bistro has its own special late
night menu served from 22:00 until close, comprised
of tasty tapas dishes. Choose from exotic and elegant
ﬁnger foods like bruschetta, tuna empanadillas, Black
Tiger prawns with garlic, meat balls and a lot more.QB2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www.
scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00.
(8-23zł). UBXSW
ZAPIECEK EKSPRES
Join legions of happy locals tucking into the legendary
pierogi served with no fuss, no formality by an
unsmiling lady from behind a counter. It is a long
way from ﬁne dining but for a quintessential Kraków
experience there are few better places to come.
Open all night, it’s cheaper than a kebab and a much
better value when everything else is closed.QC-2,
ul. Sławkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.
zapiecek.eu. Open 24hrs. (9-18zł). GBSW
38 Kraków In Your Pocket
Restaurants
ITALIAN
AMARONE
Upmarket Italian food served in an elegant setting to
a discerning audience - all of whom appear to know
exactly what they are ordering and how it should be
prepared. The pressure is on, but the Amarone team
comes through every time and the clients keep coming
back. Enjoy fresh bread (baked daily), homemade pasta
and authentic ingredients straight from Italy in an
exclusive atmosphere made Mediterranean via plenty of
natural light and potted plants. Weekdays 12:00 - 16:00
oﬀer a fantastic ﬁve-course tasting menu for only 50zł.
QC-2, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12
424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (4965zł). T6UEGW
AQUA E VINO
Still as exciting as the day it opened. Italian owned, this chic
cellar space comes decorated in a minimalist style with
cream and black colour combinations, and an atmosphere
redolent of downtown Milan. Half restaurant, half lounge
bar, the beautifully presented dishes come cooked up
by house chef Francesco. Earning rave reviews from all
corners, this merits a place on any ‘must visit’ list you may
be keeping. Stop in during lunch (Mon-Fri 13:00-16:30) to
get an appetiser, main and drink for only 35zł.QB-3, ul.
Wiślna 5/10, tel. (+48) 12 421 25 67, www.aquaevino.pl.
Open 13:00 - 22:45. (24-69zł). GSW
BIANCA
This small Italian bistro next to St. Mary’s Basilica comes
preceded by a big reputation and strong pedigree
courtesy of the local dining dynasty behind La Campana
and Marmolada. No surprise then that our scallops
were delicious, and though the side dishes (order one)
are almost as large as the pasta dishes, the value is still
incredible. The relaxed white (go ﬁgure) interior leaves big
impressions to the kitchen situated in full view at the end of
the intimate room, where the professionalism of the chefs
is on full display.QC-3, Pl. Mariacki 2, tel. (+48) 782 29
77 15, www.biancaristorante.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (2560zł). GBW
BOSCAIOLA
With pedigree and another winning design job from the
team behind the popular Mamma Mia, this surprisingly
upscale Italian eatery on bustling Szewska Street boasts
a stylish interior full of lovely timber and white ceramic
fittings, with large windows that bring a bit of sunshine
and street theatre to the front tables; downstairs is a
beautiful cellar full of wine bottles and wire-brushed
brick and stone. The menu is a by-now familiar array
of pizzas and pastas, but there’s no skimping on the
quality or quantity of ingredients - only on the total of
the bill at the end. Classy budget dining, right in the
centre.QB-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 12 426 41 27,
www.boscaiola.eu. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (15-63zł).
TUGBSW
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INVITO PIZZA & PASTA
The concept here is as simple as the food: a stylish interior
with a comfortable atmosphere in which to enjoy good
company and aﬀordable food (two-course meals for as little
as 14.90zł). The decor nicely balances touchstones of a casual,
rustic trattoria with the elegance of numerous wine racks
and classic black and white Belle Epoque photos, thereby
outshining the menu which is little more than a concise list
of budget pizzas and do-it-at-home pasta dishes that come
out of the kitchen quickly. With cute students on the orders,
football on the large teles, queens Nina Simone and E. Badu
on the stereo and low totals on the bill at the end, there’s really
nothing to disagree with here.QD-3, ul. Św.Tomasza 33, tel.
(+48) 12 421 30 92, www.invitopizza.pl. Open 11:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (11-35zł). TUVGSW
LA CAMPANA TRATTORIA
Planted on picturesque Kanonicza Street, in summertime
La Campana Trattoria is worth visiting just to relax in the
gorgeous ivy-green garden and cobbled patio; full of
sunlight and singing birds, it may be the best dining
environment in Kraków; in winter, retreat to the romantic
cellars and dream of better weather. From the same tried
and true team behind Miód Malina and Wesele - two of our
favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees) - the pasta and
risotto are as good as you’d expect.QC-4, ul. Kanonicza 7,
tel. (+48) 12 430 22 32, www.lacampana.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:00. (16-65zł). TEGBSW
LA GRANDE MAMMA
Responsible for some of the most understated but sterling
restaurants in town, the team behind Miód Malina and
Boscaiola has put their talents on display again with La
Grande Mamma. Located on the corner of the market
square, upscale Italian dining is a treat here, with an
ambience ideal for romantic trysts over wine and mussels,
or more casual meetings consecrated with delicious pizzas
and pasta. In addition to outstanding food and service,
interior design is another of their fortes, and the stripped
wood and mirrored tiles employed here give a fresh ﬁnish to
their successfully established style. As usual, acute attention
is paid to every detail, and the payoﬀ is more than worth
the ﬁgure on the bill at the end.QB-3, Rynek Głowny 26,
tel. (+48) 12 430 64 58, www.lagrandemamma.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł). TGBSW
MAMMA MIA
Dispatched from a traditional wood-ﬁred oven, this is some
of the best pizza in town. The choice of numerous homemade pastas and other Italian standards, however, proves
Mamma Mia is more than just a one trick pony. The interior clever lighting and exposed bricks - makes a cool backdrop
for casual dining, and the army of regulars is testament to
Mamma Mia’s venerated reputation, even luring them in
for breakfast (served 08:00-12:00, Sat & Sun 09:00-12:00)
with fresh pancakes, paninis, pastries, omelettes and more.
QB-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. (+48) 12 422 28 68, www.
mammamia.net.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 23:00. (14-43zł). TUGBS
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39
Restaurants
Restaurants
Recommendation
Classy budget dining,
right in the centre.
Krakow In Your Pocket
Recommendation
Pizza, pasta
e magia
FOOD TRUCK SQUARE
Food trucks are the latest Polish food fad, and Skwer
Judah in Kazimierz - so named after the massive street
mural that adorns it - provides the parking for this culinary
trend. Here you’ll ﬁnd several meals on wheels to choose
from, plus beach chairs, benches and palettes, making
this concrete pitch one of the coolest places in town to
catch some quick grub. Tenants change often, but during
our most recent visit they included Big Red Busterant (a
vintage double-decker bus serving soup, sausage, and
ﬁsh and chips), Frytki Belgijskie (Belgian-style fries, open
every day), Boogie Truck (burgers, paninis), Pan Kumpir
(loaded jacket potatoes), Andrus Food Truck (serving
maczanka - the Cracovian Sloppy Joe), and Food Fuzja
(fusion surprises). Opening hours and availability vary
with each of course, but most are open roughly Tues-Fri
12:00 - 22:00, Sat-Sun 12:00 - 24:00.QE-6, Skwer Judah,
ul. Św Wawrzyńca 16.
40 Kraków In Your Pocket
ul. Szewska 10, Kraków
tel. +48 12 426 41 27
www.boscaiola.eu
“Amazing place...
excellent pastas, great
service, just delicious!!!”
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Kraków
ul. Kanonicza 7
tel. +48 12 430 22 32
www.lacampana.pl
JEWISH
ISRAELI
MEDITERRANEAN
DAWNO TEMU NA KAZIMIERZU
(ONCE UPON A TIME IN KAZIMIERZ)
From the outside this venue is disguised to look like a row
of early 20th century trade shops and is decorated with
awnings relating to the area’s Jewish heritage. Things are
no less colourful on the inside with mannequins, sewing
machines and carpenters’ work surfaces adorning the
interiors. A great attempt at capturing the old Kazimierz
spirit, and a must-visit for those tracing the district’s past.
QE-6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17, www.
dawnotemu.nakazimierzu.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:30. (2149zł). 6UEGBSW
HAMSA
In a district whose dining establishments still treat
Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past, here’s
a restaurant free of nostalgic pre-war décor and
wooden roof fiddlers, where ‘Jewish cuisine’ doesn’t
mean traditional East European fare. Making a bold
impression simply by being bright, modern and
free of clutter, Hamsa offers a range of authentic
Middle Eastern specialties in a casual environment.
The mezze sets are perfect for sharing, and not only
give you a chance to sample delicious starters like
the humus, babaganoush, labnah and muhammarah
(our recommended choice), but are also beautifully
presented in hand-painted dish ware. Fairly-priced and
generally a breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight.QE6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, www.hamsa.
pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (3050zł). T6GBSW
AUBERGINE DINE & WINE
Right on bustling Floriańska Street, this Italian-leaning
restaurant is ideal for an earnest dinner date without getting
a bill at the end that makes you wonder if you shouldn’t be
more frugal the following evening. The warm atmosphere will
make your eyes wander to the wine list, while the elegant, but
not over-formal design is well-suited to the Mediterranean
menu of creamy pastas, pizzas and fresh seafood dishes. End
the evening with creme brulee with dark chocolate and chilli
and you’ll leave thanking your server for the experience.QC-2,
ul. Floriańska 26, tel. (+48) 509 54 28 02, www.aubergine.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-54zł). TUGSW
KLEZMER HOIS
Located in an old former mikveh - a ritual Jewish bath
house - on ul. Szeroka, this is one of Kazimierz’s most
well-established restaurants, and a portal into the
dusty sepia days of pre-war Poland. Serving traditional
Jewish Galician dishes from the 19th century, the
restaurant generally follows kosher rules, though
there’s no rabbinical supervision. There’s a theatre
in the basement, and incredibly popular klezmer
concerts (26zł) take place each evening during dinner
at 20:00 - keeping the crowds amused and the wine
flowing.QE-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411 12
45, www.klezmer.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (19-59zł).
UEGSW
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DESTINO
One of the Old Town’s most impressive establishments,
Destino is a professional eﬀort all around - from the interior,
to the menu, to the staﬀ, to the kitchen, and then back
to your table. The spacious, Provencal interior of white
timber furnishings, soft lighting and soothing jazz is not
only relaxing, but positively uplifting, and the exquisitely
curated Mediterranean menu is full of fresh seafood, risotto
and paella, including a baked sea bream we can heartily
recommend. The perfect place to prove you have good
taste, enter with your special someone, open a bottle of
sparkling wine, and you’ll both leave glowing.QC-2, ul. Św.
Jana 8, tel. (+48) 12 421 04 90, www.restauracjadestino.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (19-55zł). TUGSW
April - May 2015
41
Restaurants
Restaurants
“Ci voglio ritornare!”
massi1960 by
“Nowhere in Cracow have I eaten
a better pizza.”
Tadeusz Płatek by
GULIWER CAFE & RESTAURANT
With white textured walls, a timbered ceiling, pleasant
atmosphere and soothing music, this quiet, sun-splashed
cafe/bistro is perfect for breakfast and perusing the day’s
papers while enjoying the street scene through the walllength windows. Bring a date in the evening, but you might
be wise to reserve a table, as they’re usually full of couples
holding hands across the table, splitting a carafe and enjoying
the delicious Mediterranean-inspired menu of one of the Old
Town’s most charming wine and dine destinations.QC-3, ul.
Bracka 6, tel. (+48) 12 430 24 66, www.guliwer-restauracja.
pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (17-49zł). 6GSW
MEXICAN
ALEBRICHE
In a town that should be admonished for its awful Mexican
food, Alebriche happily has almost nothing in common
with its competition, and here’s the simple diﬀerence: it’s
actually owned and operated by a local Mexican family
(gasp!). Developing a cult following since its opening,
Alebriche sends expats into ecstasy with its simple,
authentic, dirt-cheap Mexican eats. The menu includes
everything from huevos rancheros to ﬂan, with spicy
soups, tamales, proper chicken mole and more in between.
In addition to margaritas and micheladas, this is the only
place in town where you can get horchata (our fave). A
simple, but bright, colourful interior full of photos and folk
art conﬁrms that the focus is on food - so good you’ll be
42 Kraków In Your Pocket
coming back until you’ve tried everything on the menu.
Recommended.QA-1, ul. Karmelicka 56, tel. (+48) 510
55 02 11, www.restauracjalebriche.com. Open 12:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (15-50zł). UGSW
THE MEXICAN
Further proof of Poland’s naivete towards Mexican cuisine,
this franchise ﬁnally arrives in Kraków after tying its mule
to posts in ﬁve other Polish cities prior (that’s the sound of
us smacking our foreheads). Gimmicks include busty Polish
senioritas with exposed bellies slinging tequila shots from
the bottle holstered to their belts, light ﬁxtures fashioned
from Desperados bottles, and ‘Wanted’ posters featuring
sombreroed patrons tacked everywhere. As for food
and drink, all dishes come with pickled cabbage and the
margaritas are rimmed with sugar, so forget authenticity.
Still, this colourful, over-priced cantina could be great fun
for a group piss-up, and though the placebo doesn’t work
on us, all the snogging couples would suggest it’s a proven
date destination. Ay carumba.QC-2, ul. Floriańska 34,
tel. (+48) 500 10 31 00, www.mexican.pl. Open 11:30 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. (15-50zł). 6EXSW
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THE OBWARZANEK
Any culinary journey through Kraków is likely to start with
the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled (usually
extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame seeds,
obwarzanki are sold from rolling carts on every other street
corner in Kraków, and are so inescapable they’ve become
an unoﬃcial symbol of the city. In fact the obwarzanek is
one of only two Polish foods currently protected by the EU
on its Traditional Foods List. Known as the Cracovian bagel,
the obwarzanek gets its name from the Polish word for
‘par-boiled’ and therefore diﬀers slightly from the bagel, in
addition to being its internationally popular counterpart’s
predecessor. Though the origins of the Jewish bagel are
complex, confusing and hotly-contested, most agree that
it was invented by Kraków Jews after 1496 when King
Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted the
production of baked goods to the Kraków Bakers Guild.
First written mention of the obwarzanek meanwhile
dates back to 1394, meaning that it’s been a daily sight
on Kraków’s market square for over 600 years. Though
increased tourism in recent years has jacked the price of
an obwarzanek up to around 1.50zł (sacrilege!), you’ll still
see countless people on the go munching these pretzel
rings. Tasty and ﬁlling when fresh, the art of truly enjoying
an obwarzanek leaves a lot up to chance. Cracovian bakers
produce up to 200,000 obwarzanki daily in the summer,
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
ul. Karmelicka 14, Kraków
Phone +48 12 430 04 92
www.mammamia.net.pl
English and Italian
menu available.
despite the fact that on leaving the oven the baked goods
have a sell-by date of about three hours. As such, ﬁnding
a hot one is essential. Enjoyed by people of all ages,
obwarzanki also feed Kraków’s entire pigeon population
when in the evenings the city’s 170-180 obwarzanki carts
essentially become bird-food vendors.
April - May 2015
43
Restaurants
Polish Food
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost
uniformly oﬀ-white in colour. You simply haven’t had a
thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional
dishes below, all of which can be found at almost any Polish
restaurant or milk bar in town. Smacznego!
NALEŚNIKI
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin
pancakes wrapped around pretty much any ﬁlling you can
dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in
any dodgy Polish dining establishment.
BIGOS
PIEROGI
Though there is no standard
recipe for this hearty stew,
ingredients usually include lots
of fresh and pickled cabbage,
sausage, onion, mushrooms,
garlic and whatever else is on
hand. In fact, metaphorically
bigos translates to ‘big mess,’
‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. Seasoned with
peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the
stew is left to gestate for a few days for full ﬂavour infusion. A
Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured
on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.
Doughy dumplings traditionally
ﬁlled with potato (Ruskie), sweet
cheese, meat, mushrooms and
cabbage, strawberries or plums,
though if you nose around you
will ﬁnd plenty of maverick
ﬁllings like broccoli, chocolate
or liver; the possibilities are truly
limitless and they are served
almost everywhere in the city.
PLACKI
These greasy, fried potato
pancakes are very similar to
Jewish latkes and best enjoyed
with goulash on top (placki
po Węgiersku). Highly caloric,
they’re also a tried and true
hangover cure.
GOŁĄBKI
“One of the best dining experiences
we have ever had. This place
deserves a michelin star!”
James by krakow.inyourpocket.com
Kraków
ul. Grodzka 40
tel. +48 12 430 04 11
www.miodmalina.pl
ZAPIEKANKA
Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of
boiled cabbage leaves stuﬀed with beef, onion and rice
before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom
sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army
gołąbki before a battle against the Teutonic Order, and their
unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal
ever since.
GOLONKA
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy,
the boiled, braised or roasted meat should slip right oﬀ the
bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with
beer. Go caveman.
KIEŁBASA
Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll ﬁnd an enormous
variety, made from everything from turkey to bison. Head
to Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski at Plac Targowy (E-4,
see Late Night Eats, p. 38) to get a taste of Kraków’s most
famous kiełbasa, however. Two old-timers have been
grilling sausage out of a van since time immemorial at this
hallowed sidewalk stand.
44 Kraków In Your Pocket
The ultimate Cracovian drunk
food. Order one at any train
station in PL and you’ll get half
a stale baguette covered with
mushrooms and cheese, thrown
in a toaster oven and squirted
© robert6666 - dollarphotoclub with ketchup. Underwhelming
to say the least, however the vendors of Kazimierz’s Plac
Nowy (D-6) have made a true art out of the ‘Polish pizza.’With
endless add-ons (including salami, spinach, smoked cheese,
pickles, pineapple, feta – you name it), garlic sauce and chives
have become standard procedure at this point. Because of
their popularity you’ll witness ridiculous lines at the various
windows around the roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At
8-10zł it’s a great value and will sustain you through a night
of heavy drinking. To leave town without having tried a Plac
Nowy zapiekanka would be felonious, as would settling for
one anywhere else in Kraków.
ZUPA SOUP
Poland has two signature soups:
barszcz and żurek. A nourishing
beetroot soup similar to Russian
‘borscht,’ barszcz may be served
with potatoes tossed in, with
mini-pierogi ﬂoating in it, or with
Barszcz
a croquette for dunking, but we
prefer to order it ‘solo’ - in which case it comes simply as
broth in a mug expressly for drinking. Żurek is a unique
sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg
chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
BEST
PLACE
TO EAT
“Friendly efficient staff,
delicious food, and had
a very happy evening!”
Margaret by krakow.inyourpocket.com
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Kraków
Rynek G³ówny 10
tel. +48 12 422 74 60
www.weselerestauracja.pl
April - May 2015
45
Restaurants
Polish
Restaurants
Restaurant
Traditional Polish food in modern form
Open: Sun-Thu 12.00 - 22.00, Fri-Sat 12.00 - 24.00
XO6ãDZNRZVND.UDNyZWHOZZZF]HUZRQHNRUDOHHX
POLISH
CZERWONE KORALE
This traditional Polish restaurant may be discreet from
the street, but the interior is one of the most vibrant and
welcoming in the Old Town. The simple, but charming
folk decor favours colour over clutter: cheerful chandeliers
wrapped in wicker wreaths wound with bright ribbons and
beads give the dining rooms a warm glow, while photos
of dancing highlanders and peasant maidens frolicking
in folk costumes line the walls. Even more colour comes
from the kitchen, which serves all the Polish standards, but
with some creative innovations and a ﬂair for presentation
that we were hardly expecting. There’s an entire page of
vegetarian dishes(!) and the overall quality of the food
makes Czerwone Korale not only a pleasant surprise, but
also a great value (particularly during their 14 zł lunch deals
Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00).QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel.
(+48) 12 430 61 08, www.czerwonekorale.eu. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (15-45zł). GSW
ED RED
This upscale ‘beef-stro’ (our turn-of-phrase, thanks)
specialises in locally-sourced seasoned meat, dry-aged onsite for at least twenty days. With an industrial interior oﬀset
by large timber tables, and featuring a vast open kitchen,
Ed Red conveys the atmosphere of an NYC steakhouse,
but the curt menu is built upon local Polish products and
delicacies like tripe soup, blood sausage and even a pork
chop served on a bed of bigos, alongside choice steaks and
46 Kraków In Your Pocket
burgers. Though casual in style, the service is outstandingly
professional, and everything from the tempting and
creative culinary cocktails to the monogrammed cloth
napkins reveals that this is a fully thought-out eﬀort. We
were positively impressed.QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 3, tel.
(+48) 690 90 05 55, www.edred.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (25-57zł). UGSW
JAREMA
This classy veteran restaurant presents old world Eastern
Polish cuisine in a slightly ostentatious, 19th-century interior
adorned with stag antlers and faded oil paintings. Comely
waitresses in traditional costume bustle about serving large
platters of steak with quail eggs, pheasant and wild boar (to
name a few), as live folk music is performed each evening.
Despite the now-familiar hearkening back to the old days,
Jarema is not your classic tourist trap. In fact, it just keeps
getting better and we heartily recommend it.QD-1, Pl.
Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12 429 36 69, www.jarema.pl. Open
12:00 - 24:00. (18-55zł). T6UVEGSW
KOGEL MOGEL
Kogel Mogel as it was, it seems, was too reﬁned for its
own good. Ditching the concept of grand banquet hall
for the communist elite, Kogel Mogel now envelopes
you in its elegance without any ‘comrade’ kitsch. The
menu has gone full Galician and oﬀers out-of-towners
the chance to take home a much better impression of
the local cuisine than you might acquire elsewhere. The
krakow.inyourpocket.com
duck and goose dishes are particularly excellent, the fried
trout is outstanding and the large summer garden and
experienced staﬀ also make this a good place for groups
and dinner events.QC-3, ul. Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12 426
49 68, www.kogel-mogel.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (1765zł). TEGBSW
MARMOLADA
While Kraków’s super-saturated restaurant market has
seen plenty of tankings of late, the team behind the
ever-popular and duly praised Miód Malina continues
to expand. Sister eatery Marmolada oﬀers delicious local
Małopolska delicacies, perfectly prepared and ﬁred for a
few minutes in a large stone oven before arriving at your
table. Narrow, yet long and cavernous, Marmolada utilises
ﬂoral folk patterns, canopied ceilings, big timber tables
and poinsettas to create their unique combination of a
comfortable local atmosphere and low prices with great
food and service. Go elegant on Grodzka, just doors down
from the city’s most exclusive restaurant (Wierzynek),
and you can leave with a bill that less than half the size.
QC-3, ul. Grodzka 5, tel. (+48) 12 396 49 46, www.
marmoladarestauracja.pl. Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 23:00. (17-54zł). TUGSW
MILKBAR TOMASZA
A modernisation of the classic Polish cafeteria, the mantra
of this foreign-friendly ‘Milk Bar’ might be that cheap,
slow-cooked Polish food need not be unappealing, lack
ﬂavour, or served in cramped, unclean surroundings.
Here slippered grannies have been swapped for a staﬀ of
cute students, and institutional interiors exchanged for
wall-length windows and a bit of colour. The daily special
(18zł) includes soup and an entree (with three of each
to choose from), or select from the set menu of pierogi,
potato pancakes, crepes, bagels and breakfast options.
Comfort, cleanliness and taste are worth the extra 5zł in
our opinion.QD-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 24, tel. (+48) 12 422
17 06. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (10-18zł).
TUGSW
MIÓD I WINO (HONEY & WINE)
Champion dishes of traditional Polish fare in a setting
piled as high as the food with muskets, antlers and suits
of armour. All extras (vegetables, bread) cost extra, and
you’ll need to explain clearly how you expect your meat
to be cooked; but the ﬂair of the service, quality of the
food and fondness of the folk musicians playing full force
nearby create a fun atmosphere that’s completely worth
being in.QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74
95, www.miodiwino.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (25-80zł).
UEXSW
Not listed here?
Over 250 restaurant reviews online:
krakow.inyourpocket.com
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April - May 2015
47
Restaurants
Restaurants
BEST
PLACE
TO EAT
Recommendation
Recommendation
Recommendation
What a hearty introduction
to Polish quisine!
Stuart Forster,
British Guild of Travel Writers
MILK BARS
A lot has changed since
communism got kneecapped and Poland
joined the EU. While
many of the old ways of
the old days have disappeared or become slightly disneyﬁed in today’s
tourist-laden Kraków, one
relic remains resolutely un-Western: the Polish milk bar
(‘bar mleczny’ in Polish). These steamy cafeterias serving
proletariat cuisine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim glimpse into Eastern
Bloc Poland and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary
standards) of a gas station restroom. We love them. For
the cost of a few coins you can eat like an orphaned
street urchin, albeit an extremely well-fed one. Put Wawel
on hold, a visit to the milk bar is a required cultural experience for anyone who has just set foot in the country.
Poland’s ﬁrst milk bar was actually opened on Kraków’s
own market square on May 30th, 1948. As restaurants
were nationalised by PL’s communist authorities, milk
bars appeared in their place to provide cheap, dairybased meals to the masses (as cheerlessly as possible,
48 Kraków In Your Pocket
Recommendation
ul. Sienna 12, Kraków
Phone 12 426 49 68
www.kogel-mogel.pl
apparently); in fact meals at the local milk bar were often
included in a worker’s salary. In addition to milk, yoghurt,
cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars
oﬀered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as ﬂourbased foods like pierogi. Times were so desperate under
communism that many milk bars chained the cutlery to
the table to deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning
you’ll notice that most milk bars today use disposable
dishes and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic
cups with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by
ashen-faced, all-business babcias (Polish grannies), and
the food is as inspired as ever - the only diﬀerence being
that meat is no longer rationed in modern PL. With the
collapse of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt,
however, some of these feed museums were saved and
continue to be kept open through state subsidies. The
range of available dishes begins to fall oﬀ as closing time
approaches, so go early, go often.
BAR KAZIMIERZQD-7, ul. Krakowska 24, tel. (+48)
12 430 68 45. Open 06:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 16:00,
Sun 07:00 - 15:00. (3-8zł). NGS
POD TEMIDĄ The easiest to ﬁnd: look for the blue
and white ‘Bar Mleczny’ sign.QC-4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel.
(+48) 12 422 08 74. Open 09:00 - 20:00. (10-16zł).
UNGS
krakow.inyourpocket.com
“Heaven! Fantastic food,
excellent wine, great service.
In one word: PERFECT!”
Maria - London
MIÓD MALINA (HONEY RASPBERRY)
Consistently excellent meals have seen Miód Malina
establish themselves as one of the top restaurants in town,
so book ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views
aﬀorded by the raised window-side seating. This cheerful
looking restaurant comes with raspberries painted onto
the walls and a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker
evenings. Floral touches aplenty here, lending a storybook,
candy cottage atmosphere, while the menu mixes up the
best of Polish and Italian cooking. The prices remain pegged
generously low making a visit here not just recommended
(as the Michelin Guide 2013 did) but essential.QC-4, ul.
Grodzka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (26-60zł). TUGBSW
MISS GOLONKO
Squeeze into this lively cellar packed full of hungry patrons
beneath vaulted ceilings for a bit of Polish food tourism.
‘Golonka,’ known in English as pork knuckle, is essentially
a hacked oﬀ pig ankle, and in Miss Golonko this succulent
local delicacy is served 10 ways, all including bread and dips,
for only about 20zł each. The menu also features a variety
of other Polski standards, plus steaks and burgers. With
surprisingly good service and a lively beer hall atmosphere
(beer is an essential part of eating golonka), this is hardly
the most striking interior on the market square, but you’ll
be hard-pressed to beat the prices.QC-3, Rynek Główny
23, tel. (+48) 12 421 03 16, www.missgolonko.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (20-49zł). T6GBSW
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Kraków
ul. Grodzka 5
tel. +48 12 396 49 46
www.marmoladarestauracja.pl
MORSKIE OKO
Morskie Oko aims to capture the mountain spirit of
Zakopane so there’s plenty of primitive looking furniture,
waitresses with bits bursting out of traditional costume and
regular live bands making a racket. The food is caveman
in style - delicious hunks of grilled animals - but it has a
dedicated following.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 8, tel. (+48)
12 431 24 23, www.morskieoko.krakow.pl. Open 12:00
- 24:00. (20-50zł). TEGBSW
POD ANIOŁAMI (UNDER THE ANGELS)
One of the city’s most historic and charming restaurants,
Pod Aniołami oﬀers a quintessentially Cracovian
encounter with royal medieval Polish cuisine. This
cavernous, candle-lit, almost monastic haven is
incredibly warm and inviting considering that some of
its 13th century dining areas are two levels underground;
inside you’re surrounded by historical artefacts, and two
beech wood-ﬁred grills allow you to watch the creation
of your meal from beginning to end. The extensive menu
includes Pod Aniołami’s famous pierogi, plus everything
imaginable that can be smoked, grilled, or was
enjoyed by the Polish nobility in days of old, including
special recipes made with actual gold - an homage to
the building’s past as a goldsmithy. One of Kraków’s
richest restaurant experiences indeed, and highly
recommended.QC-4, ul. Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421
39 99, www.podaniolami.pl. Open 12:45 - 24:00. (30140zł). 6GBSW
April - May 2015
49
Restaurants
Restaurants
POD BARANEM
An admirable establishment near Wawel Castle, the upscale
interior features exposed brick, timber ceiling beams and a
ﬁreplace, oﬀset by framed photos of family and guests on
the walls, creating a truly comfortable and classy dining
environment. Serving excellent incarnations of Polish
standards, the menu includes more meat than you’ll ﬁnd
at a livestock market (including deer and wild boar), plus
a special page dedicated to gluten-free meals, and the
complimentary pre-meal smalec and bread may be the
best in Kraków.QC-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48) 12
429 40 22, www.podbaranem.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
(23-100zł). TUXS
POD NOSEM
An extremely elegant upscale dining experience on
Kraków’s oldest street, ‘under the nose’ (as the name
translates) of Wawel Castle - tantalising smells from the
open kitchen will hit yours upon entry. This establishment
using the sous vide method to create a curt menu of
modern, beautifully presented Polish cuisine, including
a lovely duck with buckwheat and apples. The interior
has some ﬁne and creative touches with regal tapestries,
embroidered seating, gorgeous dishware and some clever
lamp ﬁxtures whose proﬁle pay tribute to the name. Utterly
professional, the prices are almost as rich as the food, but
certainly worth the unforgettable experience.QC-5, ul.
Kanonicza 22, tel. (+48) 12 376 00 14, www.podnosem.
com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (12-89zł). UGBW
POD RÓŻĄ (UNDER THE ROSE)
Excellent Polish cuisine served under the glass atrium of
the magniﬁcent Pod Różą Hotel. The open and elegant
design features plenty of potted plants, a piano perched
on a raised platform and mezzanine seating overlooking
the main ﬂoor. In addition to delicious coﬀees, to-die-for
desserts, and an extensive wine list, the menu of seasonally
inspired entrees includes a menagerie of perfectly prepared
poultry and large game. Prices are high, but then so are the
standards.QC-2, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 18:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (49-69zł). TUEGW
POD WAWELEM
The place to visit if you’re looking to hit your daily calorie
quota in one meal. Huge portions of standard Polish fare
cascade oﬀ the steel pans and wooden boards they’re
served on, while uniformed staﬀ weave between the bench
seating serving frothing steins of lager. Great for groups and
families, kids have their own large rumpus area, while the
grown-ups soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over
energetic live folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and
half-price on Mondays, and there’s a handy ‘vomitorium’ in
the men’s room - i.e, two enormous steel basins for those
suﬀering from over-consumption. Now a second location
in the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice Kompania Kuﬂowa).QC-5,
ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 23 36, www.
podwawelem.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:30.
(20-40zł). TUEGBS
50 Kraków In Your Pocket
krakow.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURACJA W HOTELU FRANCUSKIM
Dingy, unfinished walls contrast with the olde-world,
over-the-top service of white suit-jacketed gentlemen
who serve everything at your table, even preparing
some of it in front of you (like the laborious mincing
of the steak tartare), all while a pianist tickles ivories
in the corner. As such, you’ll get a real kick out of
dining here, and the set three-course ‘Espresso Lunch’
(served 12:00-15:30) is a fantastic opportunity to
experience Francuski’s high society inter-war elegance
for a shocking 18zł (33zł on Sundays, when it includes
a glass of wine). We love it.QC-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel.
(+48) 530 67 95 19, www.hotel-francuski.com.pl.
Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 15:30, 16:00 - 23:00. (2070zł). TUEGSW
SĄSIEDZI
Probably the best restaurant in Kazimierz for introducing
yourself to traditional Polish food, Sąsiedzi (‘Neighbours’)
oﬀers up delicious portions of all the standards in a lovely
tavern-style interior that perfectly balances elegance with
homely comfort. The honeycomb of intimate rooms in
the cellar are perfect for small groups, but we’d dine in
the ﬂower-festooned patio and winter garden every time
if there’s space available. The staﬀ are refreshingly friendly
and helpful, and tested classics like żurek, potato pancakes
and trout with almonds all earn top marks. This is the Polish
dining experience you’re looking for, but at prices beneath
those you’d get for the same Michelin-recommended
results in the Old Town.QD-6, ul. Miodowa 25, tel. (+48)
12 654 83 53, www.oberza.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (1280zł). TBXSW
SMAKOŁYKI
An editorial favourite. Budget food isn’t hard to come
by in this town, but when it does, it’s typically service
and ambience that you sacrifice for your savings. Not
here though. This hip, trendy bistro has it all, from
great coffee and tasty Polish microbrews to simple,
delicious Polish cuisine, all served inside a spacious,
slightly urban, slightly retro interior that even features a
mezzanine and nifty wall art made from pinned string.
Daily specials make the deals even sweeter, and if you
know how hard it can be to find a seat with a wall
plug and wifi that actually works in Kraków, you’ll also
discover that Smakołyki is a great place to work.QB-3,
ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 12 430 30 99, www.
smakolyki.eu. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
(9-20zł). T6GSW
SUKIENNICE KOMPANIA KUFLOWA
After disastrous beginnings, the fully renovated Cloth
Hall has been saved by Kompania Kuﬂowa (Beer Stein
Company). Known for their enormous schnitzel pork chops
(seriously, just split one) and daily promotions - including
litre beers for only 9zł on Mondays(!), the range of local
specialties, low prices and postcard location of this AustroHungary-inspired restaurant make it a tourist magnet. Less
beer-hally than its sister establishment Pod Wawelem,
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WE INVITE YOU TO OUR
SUMMER GARDEN
2015
Kraków, Plac Matejki 5
phone: +48 12 429 36 69
restauracja@jarema.pl
www.jarema.pl
Open Mon- Sun 12-23
April - May 2015
51
Restaurants
RIVERBOAT DINING
In the summer months, the Wisła River gets backed up
with riverboats, the deck terraces of which oﬀer some
of the best sun in town. You’ll ﬁnd opportunities for
boat deck dining beneath Wawel Castle (B-5), as well
as near Kładka Bernadka (J-4). Below we list the best
dining and drinking destinations on the river.
BARKA
If you’re thinking of boarding one of the several dining
vessels along the Wisła River, make it Barka. This
Dutch cargo barge dates back to 1889 and was once
signiﬁcant enough to the history of water transport to
be featured on a Dutch postage stamp. Since then it
has been modernised by Polish craftsmen with thrilling
results. Descend into the spacious hold reﬁtted with
wooden ﬂoors, a sculpted bar, ﬁreplace and skylights
that let in plenty of natural light. The cocktail and wine
lists are duly impressive, and the menu of creative
designer food is thoroughly enjoyable. Utterly elegant
and skillfully stylish, climb aboard and become an
instant socialite.QE-7, Bulwar Kurlandzki (near the
terminus of ul. Gazowa), tel. (+48) 668 82 04 54,
www.barkakrakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. (25-45zł). TGSW
C.C. STEFAN BATORY
Poland has a history of semi-famous vessels named
after semi-famous 16th-century king Stefan Batory,
and this modern, multifunctional riverboat carries on
that tradition. Anchored on the Wisła River beneath
Wawel, locations simply don’t get any better than
this: enjoy coﬀee, cocktails and castle-gazing on the
sunny deck, or head below to the swanky restaurant
for a wide range of perfectly prepared Polish and
Italian dishes. With attentive service, cosy conﬁnes
and creamy leather seating, it’s akin to being on a
business class ﬂight - but with better food. With its
own wireless and conference facilities, the Stefan
Batory is ideal for events, or just a sunny sightseeing
pit-stop/photo shoot with the perfect backdrop.QB-5,
Bulwar Czerwieński, tel. (+48) 664 92 90 16, www.
stefanbatory.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 20:00. (29-55zł). TUGSW
52 Kraków In Your Pocket
Restaurants
enjoy outdoor seating in the shadow of the Town Hall
Tower in warm weather, or the surprisingly intimate prewar interior, all while stuﬃng yourself silly at some of
the lowest prices on the market square.QB-3, Rynek
Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 09 09, www.sukiennicekompaniakuflowa.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 23:00. (19-56zł). TGBSW
WESELE
This warm, timber-framed, two-level eatery is one of the
most popular on the market square thanks to a reputation
built on Michelin recommendations, friendly service and
a comfortable atmosphere. If your Polish is about as good
as your Chinese, the name ‘wesele’ refers to the lengthy
celebration of family, food, love and vodka that takes place
after a traditional Polish wedding service, and if this place
weren’t full of tourists all the clinking glasses and smiling
faces might make you think you’d actually crashed a Polish
wedding party. The menu is classic Polish cooking done
exactly the way it was meant, and the goose breast is
fabulous. We recommend it also.QC-3, Rynek Główny 10,
tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60, www.weselerestauracja.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (17-65zł). TUEGBSW
WIERZYNEK
Quite a launch party this place: according to legend the
opening night back in 1364 was attended by ﬁve kings
and nine princes. Since then it’s been one esteemed guest
after another, with former diners including De Gaulle,
Bush, Castro and other world leaders, as well as starlets like
Sophie Marceau and Kate Moss. The immaculate interiors
of original period furnishings, tapestries, oil paintings and
incredible timber ceilings aren’t too dissimilar from a tour
of Wawel Castle, and you can expect a royal treatment
from the staﬀ. The seriously high-end menu is based on
the traditional feasting habits of the Polish monarchy, but it
hasn’t failed to adopt modern inﬂuences as well, meaning
you’ll eat like a king and remember the experience - one
you could only have in Kraków - for quite a long time.
QC-3, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 00,
www.wierzynek.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (28-220zł).
TEBXW
SPANISH
EL TORO RESTAURANTE
Establishing itself as a mainstay of Plac Wolnica, this
subtly seductive Spanish restaurant oﬀers a variety of
authentic Mediterranean dishes, including a full menu
of mains, cold tapas atop the bar, and hot tapas to order.
The chefs are equally as adept at rich paellas as they are
at strange sea creature creations like stuﬀed squids and
grilled octopus tentacle. While that might be overstating
the adventurousness of a meal here, in a town surprisingly
short on Spanish cuisine, stepping inside El Toro feels like an
easy escape to warmer, sunnier, more exotic climes. Soak it
up.QD-7, Plac Wolnica 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 47 33, www.
eltoro-restauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (16-65zł). TGBSW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
VEGETARIAN
CAFE MŁYNEK
The best café south of ul. Józefa since its inception over a
decade ago, in addition to a classic Kazimierz art gallery
atmosphere, good coﬀee and square-side summer
seating, Młynek also serves a smattering of yummy vegan,
vegetarian and gluten-free dishes like hummus, falafel,
vegan latkes and a delicious Spanish tomato soup (like
gazpacho, but served hot). Stop by on Sundays from
11:00 - 13:00 for brunch accompanied by live classical
music.QD-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 02,
www.cafemlynek.com. Open 08:00 - 22:30. (16-26zł).
T6GBSW
NOVA KROVA
Cleverly combining two current trends that would
otherwise seem at odds - veganism and burgers - Nova
Krova inverts the beef trend with burger patties made
of bulgar, beans, tofu, quinoa, falafel, seitan and other
inventive meatless options, piled high with exciting
toppings and lathered with unique sauces. In addition
to the cornucopia of healthy ingredients, you get an
unprecedented amount of control over your order basically ‘build your own’ burger with whatever you want,
including your choice of bun (even gluten-free!). The drinks
list is no less creative, with obscure beers, homemade
ginger- and lemonade, even coﬀee with soy milk, and as
you might expect the hipster quotient here is exceptionally
high - almost as high as our opinion of the place.QD-7,
Pl. Wolnica 12, tel. (+48) 530 30 53 04, www.novakrova.
com.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. (10-17zł). 6UNGSW
POD NORENAMI
Practised in the art of Asian vegetarian cuisine and the
metamorphic powers of the soybean like no other place
we’ve seen in PL, Pod Norenami’s long menu (too long if
we’re honest) features tofu, mock chicken and mock beef
prepared in an astounding variety of traditional dishes from
the kitchens of Japan, Thailand, Vietnam and China. While
some Far East standbys (curries, tempura, sushi, pad Thai)
aren’t new to Kraków, a true vegetarian restaurant that
emphasises mock meat certainly is, and the results have
got people packing this place out and returning often. A
fun place to fool or educate the Polish palate, the interior
is modest and casual (much like the prices) as opposed
to modern and kitsch (much unlike other Asian eateries).
Do Kraków’s vegetarians have it hard? Hardly.QB-2, ul.
Krupnicza 6, tel. (+48) 661 21 92 89, www.podnorenami.
pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (2050zł). TGSW
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April - May 2015
53
Cafés
Cafés
MEHO CAFE
Long one of our favourite places for a respite in Kraków, the
magniﬁcent gardens and grounds of the Mehoﬀer House
have been made into the majority seating area of the
otherwise tiny Meho Cafe at the back of the estate. Full of
roses and fruit trees, this expansive oasis is well-maintained
and completely uncluttered, making it one of the most
peaceful, pleasant places to bring your book and enjoy a
coﬀee, arrange an evening beer rendezvous, or select from
their menu of tasty, impossibly under-priced eats. Open early
with a full breakfast menu, if you’ve had enough of the bustle
of the market square, there’s no better, more magical place
in Kraków to start the day or unwind in the sun than here.
Highly recommended.QA-2, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48)
600 48 00 49. Open 09:00 - 22:00. T6GBSW
Old Ja
Jazz
zzz Caf
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pagee 55
55
CUPCAKE CORNER
The haute cupcake trend that has spread all the way from
Beverly Hills to NYC to Kraków now, and this cheerful (but
pricey) American bakery couldn’t be more authentic if it was run
by Martha Stewart herself. Oﬀering over 25 diﬀerent cupcake
ﬂavours on various days of the week, choose from delicious
creations like Peanut Butter Brownie, White Chocolate Pistachio,
gluten-free Chocolate Cashew, Red Velvet and Carrot Cake. If
that sounds good, wait until you try the home-made ice cream
and milkshakes. Organic coﬀee and a large selection of delicious
sweet and savoury muﬃns are also on hand, everything is made
entirely from scratch, and custom orders are invited. Also at ul.
Grodzka 60 (C-5) and ul. Michałowskiego 14 (A-2).QC-3, ul.
Bracka 4, tel. (+48) 12 341 42 72, www.cupcakecorner.pl.
Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. TUGSW
NEW
FRANKIE’S
We’re not ones to sign on for the latest health fads (until binge
drinking becomes an acknowledged ‘cleanse diet’), but this
trendy, modern juice bar is a breath of fresh air in smoggy
Kraków. Choose from a variety of juice and shake concoctions
(like the ‘Green Sky’ cocktail made from spinach, pineapple and
apple, which every second person ordered during our stay), or
create your own from the assortment of fresh fruit and veggies
on hand. Building oﬀ their success in Wrocław, this is hardly a
headquarters just for joggers and yoga instructors, however;
Frankie’s achieves mass appeal with free wiﬁ, delicious coﬀee,
sandwiches and salads in addition to their hangover cures; the
20zł combo of any sandwich and a medium juice or shake
actually beats most area lunch oﬀers. We’ll be returning...QC3, ul. Stolarska 11, www.frankies.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:30, Sat,
Sun 10:30 - 19:30. 6GBSW
54 Kraków In Your Pocket
JAMA MICHALIKA
Established in 1895, it was in this very establishment
that Młoda Polska - Poland’s Art Nouveau movement was founded, with many of the leading artists of the day
choosing to take their libations inside this grand venue, and
tack their art on the walls. The place has hardly changed
a bit since then and still features loads of original artwork
from the ﬁn-de-siecle era, as well as period furnishings,
stained glass, an anachronous cloakroom and smoking
section. There’s also a full menu of Polish food and regular
folk dancing concerts. Although the abundance of tourist
groups and the poker-faced nature of the staﬀ limits the
appeal of return visits, stopping in at this legendary venue
is still essential.QD-2, ul. Floriańska 45, tel. (+48) 12 422
15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. T6UEXSW
KARMA COFFEE ROASTERS
Arguably the best cup of joe in town, Karma roasts their
own beans and boasts one of the best espresso machines
in the world (Synesso, from Seattle, write it down). But this
is hardly the snobby or pricey realm of the Starbucks set.
Karma caters to a more alternative crowd with a range of
vegan and gluten-free baked goods, and daily vegan
lunch specials that will make you feel great about what
you’re eating, as well as how little you’re paying. With a
full breakfast menu to complement their coﬀee, Karma is
a wonderful place to not only wake up, but become a bit
more conscious. Also a seasonal location in Kazimierz at ul.
Św. Wawrzyńca 9/2 (D-7, open Thu-Sun only, 10:00 - 17:00).
QA-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 662 38 72 81, www.
karmaroasters.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 19:00. T6GSW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
NOWOROLSKI
This local classic inside the Cloth Hall has certainly seen the
city’s highs and lows since it opened in 1910. Famous as the
place where Comrade Lenin would read the papers during
his visits, WWII occupation saw Noworolski become the top
haunt of Nazi nabobs, before the family-owned business
was taken away by the communist authorities, only to be
returned in 1991. Things have changed little since then,
making Noworolski a creaky throwback favoured today
by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years, but
live piano concerts and the exquisite art nouveau interiors
by Józef Mehoﬀer make it well worth a look. You can ﬁnd
cheaper and better coﬀee, but it won’t be served against
such an atmospheric backdrop.QC-3, Rynek Główny 1,
tel. (+48) 515 10 09 98, www.noworolski.com.pl. Open
08:30 - 24:00. EGBSW
NEW
OLD JAZZ CAFE
This tiny cafe has an old soul, hearkening back to yesteryear
with deep green walls, antique furnishings and handsome
tiﬀany-style lamps beﬁtting a hotel bar circa 1920. Though
the old world atmosphere doesn’t create expectations of
anything beyond your standard apple pie and espresso,
you’ll be surprised to ﬁnd an array of colourful home-made
macaroons in the display case, as well as baklava, and
delicious Grimbergen Belgian abbey ale on draught. The
intimate, low-key atmosphere is enhanced by free concerts
of traditional jazz on Saturday nights, though it’s a wonder
how they even manage to ﬁt the band in this tiny space.
QE-6, ul. Dajwór 20, tel. (+48) 12 422 17 25. Open 10:00
- 21:00. GBSW
SŁODKI WIERZYNEK
This classy cafe and shop on the ground ﬂoor of Kraków’s most
famous dining destination is everything you’d expect based
on its unrivalled pedigree. Enjoy the prime real estate on the
Rynek while indulging in gourmet coﬀee and cakes, pralines,
truﬄes, macaroons, chocolate ﬁgures and more - all of which
they make themselves, and which you can take home with
you in snazzy gift-boxes; or comfortably order later from their
online shop.QC-3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96
36, www.slodkiwierzynek.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.
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HAVE YOUR SAY
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in
this guide, let the 1.1 million yearly unique visitors to our
website, krakow.inyourpocket.com, know about it.
Every venue on our website has a function for comments,
be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it.
ALCHEMIA (p.64)
A unique bohemian bar, and a great place for a drink with
your friends. We came at 03:00 am and the place was still
crowded.
Blanka from Zagreb
LA GRANDE MAMMA (p.39)
We had a fantastic meal here - lovely salads and eggplant
stuﬀed with ricotta and basil. We were seated in a window
seat with a view over the market square. The decor was
really unique and welcoming. We got too many baskets
of bread with our food and yet somehow seemed to
polish it all oﬀ it was so delicious. We were very very
surprised by the bill at 20 euros for two. It seems more
than reasonable and to top it all they gave us a little paper
bag of cookies to take away!
Christine from Soﬁa
INVITO PIZZA & PASTA (p.39)
Friendly staﬀ, fresh cooked meal, we had grilled chicken
and french fries, nice atmosphere.
Jake from Houston
April - May 2015
55
Nightlife
Nightlife
SYMBOL KEY
G No smoking
N Credit cards not accepted
6 Animal friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
B Outside seating X Smoking room available
E Live music
W Wi-ﬁ connection
BARS & PUBS
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If you believe urban legend (like we do) Kraków has the highest
density of bars and clubs in the world. Simply hundreds of
drinking dens can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching
from the Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them
open, of course, are thousands of students, and the millions of
tourists that ﬂock to Kraków every year. With increased tourism
comes increased prices, however, and these days you can
expect to pay 7-10zł (2-3 Euros) for a large beer.
For clubbing, the main hedonist high streets are Floriańska
(C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where nary a medieval cellar
will be left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or
Saturday night; you can also expect most clubs to charge
a cover of anywhere from 5-20zł those nights. While the
opening hours we list here are conﬁrmed by the venues
themselves, most are rather ﬂexible; basically if people are
drinking, the barman is pouring. Note that bars and clubs
in the Kazimierz district have their own separate section in
the guide on page 64.
Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so use
our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - to ﬁnd reviews
of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your
comments about all of those which you’ve visited. Below
is a list of nightlife recommendations depending on what
you’re looking for.
COCKTAILS
Those who want the sexiness of a strip club, without the
laddish antics or dodginess should try Stalowe Magnolie
(Live Music, p.60) or Burlesque - discerning clubs that
keep it classy while evoking sultry inter-war ambience.
Baroque and Diva also oﬀer excellent cocktails in an
upscale atmosphere, with dancing downstairs.
56 Kraków In Your Pocket
CRAFT BEER
Microbrews are all the rage in Kraków these days, so there’s
no excuse for drinking bad beer anymore. Enjoy taking your
tipples in Tap House, Multi Qlti or Viva La Pinta and you
can oﬃcially consider yourself a beer snob.
STUDENTS
Not your most discriminating demographic, students will
go anywhere there’s cheap drinks - join them in any Polish
Snacks & Shots bar (see p.62). Those who like to dress up
and dance, meanwhile, head to Cien and Diva.
LADS
Pod Papugami - where matches are on and the staﬀ are
used to boisterous behaviour - welcomes stag groups, after
which you can try the local institution known as Cien.
Alternatively, head to T.E.A. Time (Breweries, p.58) for a
taste of home, or sample upwards of 200 Polish and foreign
ales at House Of Beer.
COUPLES
Couples looking for some face time should go wine tasting
in Bottiglieria 1881 (Wine Bars, p.61), snuggle in a cosy loft
at Święta Krowa, converse by candlelight in Mleczarnia
(Kazimierz, p.65) or stay home and listen to Barry White.
ALTERNATIVE
Take your tight pants and non-prescription specs to Forum
Przestrzenie, your photography portfolio to Pauza, your
long hair and black nail polish to Antycafe, your anarchist
tract to Kolektyw Dajwór (Kazimierz, p.65), and your selfdestructive side to Klub Piękny Pies (Kazimierz, p.64).
krakow.inyourpocket.com
ANTYCAFE
As tempting as it would be to call Antycafe a ‘hipster haven’,
since mocking hipsters is more hip than being one these
days, we wouldn’t want to do this eclectic establishment
that disservice. Between the two full bars on opposite ends
of this 30m long ‘anti’-café, you’ll ﬁnd an array of candlelit
nooks, an assortment of eccentric, somewhat sinister art,
great music, and a very unique, very cool vibe indeed. True
to its name, the alternative atmosphere belies more of an
edgy bar than a quaint café, and with a great beer selection
and one of the least ostracising smoking sections in the
Old Town, you’ve all the more reason to occupy a table. If
you can ﬁnd a free one, that is.QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 12,
tel. (+48) 506 48 18 88, www.antycafe.pl. Open 12:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. UNXW
BAROQUE
Over several rooms of plush seating, high fashion
photographs, dangling chandeliers and a spacious garden
during the warmer part of the year, Baroque is a sharp,
modern space that mixes the new with the old. Seductively
attractive, its range of cocktails is consistently among the best
in the city. Choose from knock-out creations like the Polish
Spring Punch or put your head down and do your best to
rip through the 100-plus vodkas on the list. While Kraków’s
mojito love-aﬀair continues unabated, Baroque’s still looks
the best and comes in positively huge portions. After years of
being a premier cocktail bar and restaurant, they’ve gone and
jumped into the dance scene, keeping the signature Baroque
style in the downstairs weekend club space.QC-2, ul. Św.
Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06, www.baroque.com.pl.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. BXW
BUNKIER CAFE (THE BUNKER)
Attached to Kraków’s best contemporary art gallery,
this enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles
a spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been
replaced with couples, happy hour colleagues and English
teachers giving private lessons around wobbly tables and
chairs, and a sandbox for kids to dig through. A year-round
pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters), Bunkier’s inviting
atmosphere is marred only by the slow to completely
negligible table service that can’t be circumnavigated.
QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 3a, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85,
bunkiercafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 02:00. BXW
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
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BEER GARDENS
Forum Przestrzenie
With more bars per capita than any other city in Europe,
suddenly every single one has a garden full of patio
furniture the moment the sun comes out. So which
to choose? If you want to get oﬀ of the Rynek (where
prices are a bit rich), Old Town alternatives include the
popular nook known as Doubting Thomas Lane (ul.
Św. Tomasza, C-3), Viva La Pinta (p.61), and Bunkier
Cafe (p.57) - a positively huge terrace on the Planty.
Track down to Kazimierz, however, to enjoy alfresco
drinking at its ﬁnest - Plac Nowy (D-6) is an obvious
choice, but note that Le Scandale (p.65) has plenty
of space hidden in its courtyard. For the district’s most
scenic garden head to Mleczarnia (p.65), and don’t
forget ul. Szeroka (E-6) - less lively than Plac Nowy,
but less grubby as well and catches sun later into the
evening. Two of Kraków’s largest gardens are actually
at hip underground hangouts Kolektyw Dajwór (p.65)
and Forum Przestrzenie (p.58).
April - May 2015
57
Nightlife
BREWERIES
C.K. BROWAR
On top of being Kraków’s oldest microbrewery (serving
rather palatable Light, Ginger, Dunkel and Weizen
ales), CK Browar has plenty more going for it including
the handsome beer hall interior with copper brewing
vats, tiﬀany-style lamps and long wooden tables ﬁt
for a Viking feast with a ﬁst of grog. Redoubling the
barbarian potential is the possibility of getting a ﬁve litre
beer tower with its own tap ﬁtted to your table. Damn
good times, the downside being that what could be an
elegant, even sophisticated, beer cellar has become a
rather loutish lads’ bar noted for bad music, bad service
and occasionally bad company - namely intoxicated,
unpredictable and sometimes aggressive local boys.
Shame indeed.QB-2, ul. Podwale 6-7, tel. (+48) 12 429
25 05, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 01:00,
Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. BXW
STARA ZAJEZDNIA (THE OLD DEPOT)
Abandoned for decades, this old tram depot has assumed
a second life as Kraków’s biggest brewery and beer hall. A
large complex of cavernous brick and timber buildings,
Stara Zajezdnia’s size is both a blessing and a curse. When
the sun’s out hundreds of beach chairs dot the garden,
but the impressive main hall - which features the city’s
longest bar - is too impractical to open except for special
events of over 100 guests. The smaller out-building that
serves as the main dining hall can still feel pretty lonely
without a large party inside, but if you happen to be in
one, do bring it here. Flat-screens are on hand for football
and the on-site brewed beers (lager, porter, wheat and
honey ale) do well to wash down the ribs and other
traditional fare tailored to complement them. Also don’t
overlook the separate menu of single malt whiskies if you
want to beat your friends in the race to be ﬁrst under the
table.QE-6, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39
88, www.starazajezdniakrakow.pl. Open 15:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (12-32zł). UGBW
T.E.A. TIME
The name is an acronym for Traditional English Ale,
which they brew in the basement and dispense from six
hand-pumped draughts upstairs. The ales on oﬀer are in
constant rotation, but include a bitter, porter, English IPA
and American wheat, all served by the pint (13.6% larger
than the typical Polish half-litre, and ranging from only
8-10zł), half-pint and third-pint (ideal for taste testing).
The interior is refreshingly un-pubby, though references
to the UK abound. As you might expect, this place is a
major ex-pat magnet, with the boon of staying open a
bit later than the bars back home. Though not far from
Wawel, you won’t ﬁnd it by accident, but it’s certainly
worth seeking out.QC-7, ul. Dietla 1, tel. (+48) 517 60
15 03. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00
- 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. GW
58 Kraków In Your Pocket
Nightlife
FOOTBALL HEAVEN SPORTS BAR
Looking to ﬁll the sports bar void created by the Irish
M’Bassy’s demise, Football Heaven is actually that overcrowded and often obnoxious pub’s anti-thesis. With four
comfortable and distinct rooms for watching individual
matches, this typical Polish piłkarski pub is ideal for large
groups intent on eyeing a certain match. Bathed in a green
glow, with soccer scarves covering the low ceilings and
football ﬂags all over the walls, FH features four teles, 2
projectors, a foosball table, cheap beer, and even a small
pitch of artiﬁcial turf and mini-goal for inevitable postmatch horseplay.QC-1, ul. Św. Filipa 7, tel. (+48) 512 99
00 63, www.footballheaven.pl. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 01:00. GW
FORUM PRZESTRZENIE
In the former lobby of the abandoned Soviet-era Forum
Hotel, Forum Przestrzenie is one of Kraków’s most original,
intriguing and hip locales, without even really trying (not
caring is the key to being ‘cool’ after all). The owners have
simply added dozens of bean bags, sofas and a bit of graﬃti
art to the original interior, assembled a competent kitchen
to create stellar sandwiches, salads and pizzas, stocked the
bar with good beer, and watched the talented, tattooed
post-college crowd (“hipsters” you might call them) turn
this vast riverside bar into the trendiest place to be day
or night. With great views and plenty of space, in warm
months their huge riverside terrace is sprawling with beach
chairs. DJ parties and other events are a constant, making
Forum one of the most unpredictable and exciting venues
in town.QI-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 514 34
29 39, www.forumprzestrzenie.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00.
EGBW
HARD ROCK CAFE
Sit back enjoying your cocktail or beer overlooking the
market square and Cloth Hall from Hard Rock’s split level
glass bar. The chaps here know how to make that drink
and the smiling faces can sometimes be all you need
after a long day facing stern museum curators. Not the
cheapest place in town, but one of comfort for many.
QC-3, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 10:00 - 02:00.
UGW
HOUSE OF BEER
With over 200 bottles and 18 draught beers, this highceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large
leather sofas is serious about improving the beer culture
of Poland’s drinking capital. Full of foreigners and locals
alike, the atmosphere is friendly without being overly
laddish, or having the unnecessary and all too common
distraction of TVs nattering in the background. Some
bottles can be a bit pricey so ﬁnd out what the damage
is before asking the barman to uncork one, or try the
local ales on draught for more of a bargain.QD-3, ul. Św.
Tomasza 35 (entrance ul. Krzyża 13), tel. (+48) 794 22
21 36, www.houseofbeerkrakow.com. Open 14:00 01:00. GW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
The Best
Guinness
in Poland!!!
Awarded first place for quality in
Poland’s Guinness Competition.
ul. Św. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl
Open: Mon – Sun 12.00 – Till the last guest
POLISH VODKA
Irish Pub
Certified quality Guinness,
a wide range of whiskey,
live Irish music and live
sports on a big screen in
a great atmosphere in one
of Krakow’s oldest and
biggest pubs.
f7ZREDUV
f3RROf'DUWV
f6.<z79
(All matches shown)
toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement
courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut
the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure.
ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the
most inﬁrm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of
its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka
ﬂavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly
palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since
the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of
the best vodka blends available in the world. The two
most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be
Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll ﬁnd in any
alcohol shop. But you won’t ﬁnd many tipplers throwing
them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally
reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of
Polish vodka sampling is the ﬂavoured vodkas, the most
popular of which we describe below.
WIŚNIÓWKA
Undoubtedly the most common ﬂavoured vodka,
wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-ﬂavoured. You’ll see students
and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
KRUPNIK
A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs.
Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any
easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal
defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.
ŻUBRÓWKA
One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports,
Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the
16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass speciﬁc to
Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle),
Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance
and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as it is on its
own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple
juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’
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Nightlife
LIVE MUSIC
BACCARAT LIVE
While harbouring some of the high-class traces of their
Stolarska Street club, Baccarat’s eclectic live venue isn’t too
upscale to spoil the fun. Decked out in gold, scarlet and
burgundy, with plush booths and Art Deco touches, live
rock bands take the intimate ﬁrst ﬂoor stage Wednesday
through Saturday from 22:00 - 02:00, while upstairs
local lads with cigarettes on their lips break balls on the
billiards table, while their ladyfriends lose their senses on
the DJ-domineered dance-ﬂoor. As such, it oﬀers a bit
of something for everyone and draws a diverse crowd.
Entrance is free, but drinks are pricey, and it’s wise to reserve
a table if you’re there for the music.QC-3, Rynek Główny
28, tel. (+48) 605 05 72 34, www.baccaratlive.pl. Open
21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. EXW
Nightlife
IRISH PUB POD PAPUGAMI
A nice amalgamation of classic Irish pub and Cracovian
cellar bar. Over two levels full of wooden ﬁttings, Irish
bric-a-brac, a billiards table, darts, plasma screens
streaming sports, fresh baked pizza and pints of Murphy’s,
Guinness and cider, Pod Papugami has a friendly sociable
atmosphere beloved by lads and gentlemen alike. A great
place to meet people and ﬁnd out just what exactly ‘the
craic’ is, PP actually captures everything we like about being
in an Irish bar.QC-2, ul. Św. Jana 18, tel. (+48) 12 422 61
01, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00.
UBXW
ŚWIĘTA KROWA (THE HOLY COW)
One of the most laid-back bars in the Old Town, Święta
Krowa is an intoxicating alchemic elixir of alcohol, incense,
candlelight, cloves and ambient eastern grooves. Hidden
in a small, soulful brick cellar oﬀ Floriańska, ‘The Holy Cow’
inhabits two oriental sitting rooms slung with prayer
ﬂags, low cushioned stools and two lofted lounge areas.
Amiable barmen conjure a range of invigorating alcohol
infusions and this is the perfect hideaway for a cold mojito
(and maybe an opium nap). A highly recommended cult
hangout.QC-2, ul. Floriańska 16, tel. (+48) 12 426 01 18.
Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. 6NXW
MULTI QLTI TAP BAR
If you enjoy good beer, bring yourself here. With 20
draughts, hundreds of bottles and knowledgeable bar
staﬀ, connoisseurs will be hard pressed to call it quits once
they’ve cottoned to the fact that PL’s current craft beer
craze (and low prices) is making the country heaven on
earth for hop-heads. Hidden on the ﬁrst ﬂoor above one of
Krakóws clubbing high streets, Multi Qlti is a relative oasis
of reﬁnement, with a low-key atmosphere of chill sounds,
street art stylings on the walls and a smoking room with
large windows overlooking the street scene below. Bottoms
up, bro.QB-3, ul. Szewska 21, 1st ﬂoor, tel. (+48) 12 341
58 47. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. XW
TAP HOUSE
The ﬂagship bar of Kraków’s own Pracownia Piwa
brewery (located just northwest of the centre), craft beer
connoisseurs will appreciate the detailed info about the 20
ales on draught here, and the knowledge of the staﬀ. As
you’ll discover, this is the best Polish beer in town and you
can feel good about putting your money back into the local
economy. With a happy and devoted clientele the taps
change fast, and the simple, low-key interior features some
kooky art and a timeline on local brewing history. Study up,
there might be a quiz.Qul. Św. Jana 30, tel. (+48) 604 25
98 61. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. GW
PIEC’ART
The legend of this esteemed jazz den dates back to
1999, and it has managed to remain at the forefront
of Kraków’s respected jazz scene ever since, attracting
some of the biggest names in the world jazz scene
to its stage. Live concerts take place almost nightly
(check their website for exact details) in the vaulted
brick cellars, attracting an artsy crowd of jazz playing
peers and purists. A recent expansion upstairs onto ul.
Szewska has made Piec’Art more inviting than ever,
with a classy coﬀee and whiskey bar, featuring the
longest bar in town and silent ﬁlms ﬂickering on the
wall.QC-3, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 16 02,
www.piecart.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00. EBXW
PAUZA
One of the trendiest drinking dens in the Old Town, head
to this unmarked ﬁrst ﬂoor bar to feel like you’re ‘in the
know.’ Full of stylish haircuts and sexy dresses, Pauza twins
as a photography gallery with perfectly illuminated highquality exhibitions, making the hipsters feel justiﬁably
art-smart. Furnishings are modern with low loveseats
and stools and some enviable tables in the windows
overlooking Floriańska. Despite an atrocious queue for the
toilet and typically trendy house music, this is one of the
best hangout spots in the Old Town.QC-2, ul. Floriańska
18/3 (1st ﬂoor), tel. (+48) 608 60 15 22, www.pauza.pl.
Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 02:00. XW
STALOWE MAGNOLIE (STEEL MAGNOLIAS)
Oozing Parisian boudoir appeal, Stalowe Magnolia is
essentially Kraków’s equivalent of the Moulin Rouge.
The interior is an intoxicating arrangement of scarlet
fabrics, red fairy lights, jewel-encrusted picture-frames
and deep sofas, where a team of young waitresses in
evening dress bring premium-priced drinks to your
table. The nightly live music is frequently outstanding,
with velvet-voiced chanteuses crooning to the
appreciative applause of sharply attired couples and
Rolexed businessmen, while in the VIP section plush,
silk-canopied beds forbid bashful behaviour. You can
catch shows Sun-Tue from 20:00, Wed & Thu from 21:00
and Fri & Sat from 22:00.QC-2, ul. Św. Jana 15, tel.
(+48) 12 422 84 72, www.stalowemagnolie.pl. Open
18:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. EX
PIWNICA POD BARANAMI
The very deﬁnition of the oft-copied ‘Cracovian cellar bar,’
this legendary venue has been around since 1956 when
renowned eccentric Piotr Skrzynecki (see his monument
a couple doors down in front of Vis a Vis) founded its
famous literary cabaret. A local cultural phenomenon,
performances (in Polish, naturally) still take place every
Saturday at 21:00 and are popular as ever; best to book
yourself a ticket by calling 12 421 25 00. Jazz, tango, art
exhibits and other events are also frequent, but at its heart
this divey dram house is a scruﬀy safe haven for local
artists, academics, bohemians and moon-howling boozehounds who feel right at home amongst the clutter of
oddball art on the walls and rickety furnishings. A classic,
and seemingly tourist-proof.QB-3, Rynek Główny 27, tel.
(+48) 12 422 01 77, www.piwnicapodbaranami.pl. Open
12:00 - 02:00. NGW
60 Kraków In Your Pocket
krakow.inyourpocket.com
VIVA LA PINTA
Pinta has been one of PL’s most popular and acclaimed
microbreweries since it began production just 70km
northwest of Kraków in 2011. Hidden oﬀ ul. Floriańska,
their ﬂagship brew-pub and beer garden is rightfully
one of the trendiest locales in town for hipsters and hopheads. Oﬀering 14 delicious draughts and plenty more in
the fridge, the selection isn’t limited to Pinta ales alone,
showing an admirable solidarity among PL’s small indie
breweries. The short menu features some dishes made with
their ales, but isn’t nearly as special as the drinks - one of
which is sure to meet even the most demanding of tastes.
QC-3, ul. Florianska 13, tel. (+48) 12 421 05 90. Open
14:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. GBW
WINE BARS
BOTTIGLIERIA 1881
Discreetly hidden oﬀ Plac Wolnica, this small, intimate
wine bar exudes class and taste with a sharp decór of ﬁne
stonework and rough-hewn timber, an open kitchen, VIP
service, and an expertly stocked wine cellar (of course).
Chef Paweł Kras has put together a concise and mouthwatering menu of star dishes, and tailor-makes a tantalising
array of fresh tapas (3zł each) right before your eyes, while
sommelier Michał Jancik complements them perfectly
with his recommendations. A great place for business or
courtship, Bottiglieria was acknowledged with an ‘Award
of Excellence’ by Wine Spectator magazine, and with good
reason: there are embarrassingly few venues in Kraków as
beautifully elegant and unique as this one.Qul. Bocheńska
5, tel. (+48) 660 66 17 56, www.1881.com.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. UGW
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April - May 2015
61
Nightlife
POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS
Photo by Karol Grzenia
A very popular Polish phenomenon is the 24-hour
snack and shot bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski
Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), these trendy
dives cash in on communist nostalgia and the appeal
of low prices by oﬀering a small selection of Soviet-era
bar food, and drinks at half the usual price. Much like an
all-night milk bar with a liquor license, Zakąski Przekąski
bars are a great place to keep the party going and meet
the city’s strangest characters.
AMBASADA ŚLEDZIA
There’s a vodka and śledź bar on seemingly every
corner in Kraków these days, and we’re gonna go
ahead and blame Ambasada Śledzia for this ﬁshy fad.
They were ﬁrst, and if we’re judging by food, they’re
also the best. In case you’re wondering, pickled herring
(śledź) is a ‘delicacy’ in these parts in the same way that
vodka is local parlance for ‘medicine.’ The two go great
together and for 12zł it’s a cheap ﬂing with foreign
culinary culture. Though the primary ‘Herring Embassy’
now closes at midnight, the all-night shenanigans that
once characterised this cult hipster haven have simply
moved down the street to ‘Śledź u Fryzjera’ (ul. Stolarska
5, open 10:00 - 06:00).QC-3, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel.
(+48) 662 56 94 60. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. NGBW
PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA
Well-positioned on Doubting Thomas Lane, Pijalnia’s
around the clock crowds make it hard to miss. Flooded
inside and out with students and street urchins,
Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this tried and
trendy formula: oﬀer 4zł drinks and a small 8zł menu of
traditional vodka and beer snacks in dingy environs that
conjure communist nostalgia while simultaneously
being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and
ostentation of the city’s nightlife. Did we get that right?
Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnia’s faithful
have us in the fold for being one of the city’s most fun
destinations any time of day or night, and for making
vodka blindness cool again. Finally! Also at ul. Szewska
20 (B-3) and Pl. Nowy 7 (D-6).QC-3, ul. Św. Jana 3-5
(entrance from ul. Św. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80
75. Open 24hrs. NGBW
62 Kraków In Your Pocket
Nightlife
CLUBS
BACCARAT
Walk beyond the velvet rope of Baccarat and you notice
one thing immediately: a lot of money has been spent
on making this arguably the most stylish and extravagant
music club in Kraków. Covered in plush upholstery and full
of ﬁne touches including every elegant chandelier and
lamp, the giant mirrorball DJ station, and even a room
with a dance-pole and wall-size mirror that can be coyly
curtained oﬀ, Baccarat clearly raises the bar on Kraków’s
nightlife scene. Though they’ve since added a smoking
room, this swanky swish tank was the ﬁrst to go completely
non-smoking in the days of the dingy Kraków cellar club,
which might explain why it still looks as great as ever.
Expect to pay a small cover after 23:00.QC-3, ul. Stolarska
13, tel. (+48) 695 11 67 60, www.baccaratclub.pl. Open
Thu, Fri, Sat only: 20:00 - 04:00. XW
BURLESQUE
Located in the cellars of the market square’s 16th century
Bonerowski Palace, the main draw of this intimate dance club
with silk-draped ceilings innovatively strung with illuminated
strands are the cheeky burlesque performances that take place
on Saturday after midnight, when the club’s resident dancers
take to the elevated stage in skimpy 1930s cabaret attire and
tease the howling crowds with dance routines that stop short
of stripping, but certainly leave little to the imagination. It’s
an intimate experience and one that carefully treads a line of
being just classy enough to bring the wife to. Despite the face
police at the door, once you’re downstairs it’s less intimidating
than you’d expect with fun music and an atmosphere that isn’t
too snobby for students or too grubby for gentiles. Actually, it’s
a hell of a good time. Tables are limited, so reservations would
be wise.QC-3, ul. Św. Jana 1 (The Bonerowski Palace), tel.
(+48) 694 44 01 84, www.burlesqueclub.eu. Open Fri, Sat
only: 21:00 - 05:00. EXW
CIEŃ (SHADOW)
One of Kraków’s best clubs for ten years running, a recent
refurb has Cień looking sharp as ever with new leather
upholstery and the latest in club lighting. With top DJs
doling it out over two danceﬂoors, Cień is a wet dream
for foreign lads weaned on commercial house music and
enjoying favourable exchange rates while being fawned
over by bombshell blondes who make a sport of their
sex appeal. It may be all smoke, mirrors and false phone
numbers under the interrogation lamp of the dawn, but
witness yourself scrambling back for more. More posturing
than truly exclusive, as long as you’ve made the eﬀort to look
the part and can stand up straight, your impatience with the
door queue is probably the most likely thing to keep you out
of Cień’s ultra-modern medieval cellars.QC-2, ul. Św. Jana
15, tel. (+48) 12 422 21 77, www.cienklub.com. Open
22:30 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. XW
DIVA MUSIC GALLERY
A young fashionista’s idea of paradise, Diva unfolds over
two levels: the sexy cellar club full of disco balls and laser
krakow.inyourpocket.com
beams, leather divans and scantily-clad sirens beyond
the red velvet rope, and the ground ﬂoor cocktail lounge
(open from 16:00) for those who don’t make it past the
pretentious face control. The former makes for a fun
place to mingle with coquettish calendar girls between
pretending to enjoy dancing to soulless electro music,
while the latter is a better for being seen with an expensive
cocktail before swanking oﬀ to your own self-image in one
of the many mirrors suspended on the walls. On weekends
prepare to dispense some cash to get downstairs.QC-3, ul.
Św. Tomasza 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 20 66, www.divaclub.
pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00; Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. EXW
FRANTIC
Dance alongside hourglass ﬁgures in what asserts itself
as one of Kraków’s best clubs/meat markets. The design
is your typical Cracovian cellar contrast of rough exposed
rock, modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes, but
the sound system lures some of the best DJs around to
put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish
pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast of ﬂesh and fast
times for those with well-rehearsed chat-up lines eager to
jump inside the cat’s pyjamas.QC-3, ul. Szewska 5, tel.
(+48) 12 423 04 83, www.frantic.pl. Open 22:30 - 04:00,
Fri 22:50 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. XW
SHAKERS KRAKÓW
Actually the name references the cocktail twisting bar
staﬀ, but there are still plenty of shimmying posteriors in
here. Shakers is your classic Cracovian cocktail club: just
snooty enough for the concept to succeed, but not so up
it’s own...shaker that you won’t have a great time. DJ nights
range from funk to electro, with the action happening on
an intimate dance ﬂoor between the bar and posh toilets.
Cocktails range from 15-30zł and though the list isn’t that
creative, the bartenders put on an impressive juggling
show. Maroon walls, black booths with gaudy gold pillows
that match the round gold tables and the ubiquitous FTV
make up the decor of this velvet rope aﬀair.QB-3, ul.
Szewska 5 (ﬁrst ﬂoor), tel. (+48) 660 11 40 34. Open
22:00 - 03:00. Closed Wed. XW
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
GOLD CLUB
If you’re in Kraków with the lads, chances are good that
you’re going to end up in one of the city’s strip joints and
few can match Gold Club. This veteran skin showcase has
always been one of Kraków’s best and most trusted, and its
move to a new space (and the recent addition of a room) in
the Old Town only means you don’t have to pay cab fare to
get there, or feel like you’re trapped once you do. Chances
are you’ll be getting comfortable rather quickly with lap
dances starting at 70zł and large beers for 15zł. Groups are
obviously catered to and encouraged (they even suggest
erotic dance lessons for hen parties), and you can print a
voucher oﬀ their website for 50% oﬀ entry and your ﬁrst
drink.QB-2, ul. Jagiellońska 5, tel. (+48) 510 74 50 64,
www.goldclub.com.pl. Open 19:00 - 05:00. X
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63
Kazimierz Nightlife
Kazimierz Nightlife
a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts
in town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and
klezmer festivals. And now they’ve added a new dining
room (Alchemia od Kuchni) where they serve a full menu
of excellent eats until 23:00 and drunk food afterwards.
Essential in every way.QE-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421
22 00, www.alchemia.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 03:00, Mon
10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00.
EBXW
Alchemia
When the steady revitalisation of Kraków’s former Jewish
district began back in the 1990s, much of the investment
came from business owners able to purchase derelict
buildings, ﬁll them with the curbside detritus pervading
the area that passes for furniture, add a liquor shelf
and presto! - open a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly
captured the spirit of the neighbourhood. The district
quickly became synonymous with cafe/bars choked with
smoke, candlelight, antiques and bohemians, where under
the stewardship of alcohol one might be able to commune
with a lost, forgotten world beneath the haze. As the area’s
clean-up, aided by the 1993 release of Schindler’s List,
brought more and more tourists to its historical sights,
Kazimierz went through a renaissance that saw it quickly
develop into the city’s hippest neighbourhood. Today the
area is chock-a-block with bars, clubs and restaurants, even
ousting the Old Town per square metre, and though a trace
of that original charisma vanishes with each new cocktail
bar opening, there is no better place in Kraków for a night
out. Kazimierz’s history makes it a requisite stop for tourists,
but it is the district’s nightlife that gives it its true vitality and
much of the mystique it still carries today.
ALCHEMIA
One of Kraków’s most evocative bars, the aptly-named
Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia candlelight,
forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of the
former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day with
square-side outdoor tables, in the evenings Alchemia’s
murky mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the
ruddy regulars and excitable tourists queuing before the
indiﬀerent bar staﬀ. The cellar, when it’s not being used as
64 Kraków In Your Pocket
ARTEFAKT CAFE
This cult cafe/bar oﬀers a wide range of events and
happenings that lure Kraków’s hipsters and artists to its
friendly conﬁnes like ﬂypaper. With two bars over two
ﬂoors, the upstairs is your quintessentially Kazimierz-cool
hangout full of odd furnishings, broken-spined books and a
gallery space, while the downstairs is plastered with theatre
posters and features plenty of sofa seating to observe
what’s going down on stage. While it seems there’s always
something happening from concerts to chess tournaments
to comedy nights, even when there’s not, you’ve still got a
great atmosphere, good people and a huge beer selection.
In warm weather the good times often spill outside aided
by the small garden, whose separate entrance is actually
a couple doors down. Recommended.QE-6, ul. Dajwór
3, tel. (+48) 535 79 96 66, www.artefakt-cafe.pl. Open
09:00 - 03:00. EBXW
BISTRO TRÓJKĄT
Escape the dishevelled din of nearby Plac Nowy for the
slightly more civilised, but just as boozy pub society of
Bistro Trojkąt. Here you can sample exclusive organic
vodkas from Raciborz, ﬁne unﬁltered Czech beers,
Hungarian wines, and an assortment of Central European
snacks. The laid-back decor is in keeping with the slightly
scuﬀed Kazimierz district, and the chummy company of
the staﬀ and clients is perfect for those who appreciate
good ale and spirits, and approach drinking them with
unwavering head-down determination.QE-6, ul. Józefa
30, tel. (+48) 664 46 86 23. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 03:00. GW
KLUB PIĘKNY PIES
Everyone who knows Kraków knows ‘The Beautiful Dog,’
whether they lived here 15 years ago or just arrived.
Now wearing out its third location, this cult drink tank for
unwashed artists, Dylan Thomas impersonators, cougar
vampires, counter-culture cuties and hard-living ex-pats
features a cramped front room, beyond which you’ll ﬁnd a
second bar, stage, DJ station and danceﬂoor where chainsmoking is entirely acceptable. The same great playlist of
classic rock, indie hits, post-punk and new wave keeps the
dancing spontaneous rather than obligatory throughout
the week, while the weekends are often given over to
concerts and DJ sets. One of the best choices in Kraków if
you want a late night but not a ‘nightclub,’ you can disregard
the hours because this place almost never closes.QD-6, ul.
Bożego Ciała 9. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00.
EXW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
LE SCANDALE
Some of the best cocktails in Kraków - test the Whiskey
Sour - served inside a series of sleek rooms that throng
with Bond girls and people who look like they may well
be minor celebs. Great fusion food, an enormous garden
(heated in winter) and sexy service, this is modern
Kraków at its strongest. You may not want to leave.
QD-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 55, www.
lescandale.pl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00.
UEBXW
MLECZARNIA
In summer this is the most glorious beer garden in
Kraków, and right next to an easily recognisable ﬁlm
set from Spielberg’s Schindler’s List. If that parade gets
rained on, or you ﬁnd yourself here during the dregs of
winter, take solace in the cross-street interior with its Old
World atmosphere of candlelight, rickety furniture, murky
portraits, wooden ﬂoors and wide-open, ﬂoor to ceiling
street-side windows (not to mention the enchanting
bathroom). A great place for a romantic evening
conversation or afternoon coﬀee with a book, this is what
the whole of Kazimierz was once about: taking things as
they come. Recommended.QD-6, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel.
(+48) 12 421 85 32, www.mle.pl. Open 10:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. UGW
MOMENT
From locals to tourists, laptoppers to hipsters, they take
all kinds in Moment and seem to know how to please
them all. Somewhat retro with low, loungy sofas in
splashy fabrics, and a great menu of bargain breakfasts,
Italian appetisers, wraps, salads and a range of entrees,
Moment and similarly-styled not-distant neighbour
Nova Resto Bar (ul. Estery 18) have captured Kazimierz
in their time-stopping tractor beam (no surprise then
that it’s the same owners). In fact, Moment’s plethora of
Plac Nowy seating, evening drink specials and variety of
inaccurate vintage clocks lining the walls oﬀer a handy
excuse for missing your next day rendezvous with last
night’s club conquest. Though this would certainly be
an ideal place for it.QE-6, ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668
03 40 00, www.momentcafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 01:00.
UGBW
MOSTOWA ART CAFE
This seemingly nondescript gallery/cafe/bar is the linchpin
in a raft of new venues that have turned this quiet street
between Plac Wolnica and the pedestrian bridge to
Podgórze into one of the hippest places to hang out these
days. In warm weather the small interior of white walls
dressed in the underwhelming art canvases of the month
spills out onto the sidewalk as young people compete for
a place to pass the time drinking delicious microbrews
and homemade vodkas served out of a tiny fridge. Goes to
show, it doesn’t take much, and whatever it is - this place
has it. If you don’t know, now you know, hipster.QE-7, ul.
Mostowa 8, tel. (+48) 730 48 04 77. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. UGBW
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KOLEKTYW DAJWÓR
Rising out of the rubble of Kraków’s legendary (but
now defunct) Wielopole 15 clubbing complex, Dajwór
16 has become the city’s new home-base for base
behaviour, throbbing bass sounds, and dawn-breaking
dance parties. Located in a surprisingly discreet
courtyard alongside the Galicia Jewish Museum, this
is hardly the meat-market madhouse its previous
incarnation was, but with 3 distinct boozers clustered
around a huge garden, it’s just as unhinged and
popular as ever. Industrial-chic Caryca remains the
club of choice for dance music snobs and electro ﬁends,
while Domek provides a low-key, oﬀ-beat hangout for
hungover hipsters, and Kawiarnia Naukowa has also
moved its anarchist, live music mayhem to this address.
Honestly, you never know what you’ll get here, but
you’re guaranteed to ﬁnd something happening. We
love it. Though each venue has their own hours, the
gates and garden open at 13:00 and they don’t close
until after 07:00 in the morning from our experience.
QE-6, ul. Dajwór 16.
OMERTA
A cult hangout for local beer connoisseurs, Omerta has
expanded to include more tables, a second bar and even
more delicious drink options, making it harder than ever
to resist this sociable pub. Despite a somewhat tired Maﬁa
theme replete with pics and quotes from The Godfather,
Omerta makes up for the lack of originality with one of the
best beer lists in town. The decisions begin with foreign
or domestic - the answer to which informs which bar to
hedge up to and receive an impressive menu of almost 50+
ales broken down by category and even ranked for you;
discover the joy of ‘miodowe’ (honey beer) among others.
Well-tempered locals create an ace atmosphere and repeat
visits are inevitable and encouraged.QD-6, ul. Warszauera
3 (entrance from ul. Kupa), tel. (+48) 501 50 82 27, www.
omerta.com.pl. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Mon, Sun 16:00 24:00, Tue, Wed 16:00 - 02:00. UNGW
SINGER
One of the ﬁrst bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for
all that was to come, essentially inventing the evocative
aesthetic of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety
antiques and candlelight associated with the district today.
Despite its long tenure, lofty reputation and intrusion of
tourists, today Singer still holds all the magic it did when
it ﬁrst opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day,
Singer hits its stride around 03:00 when tabletops turn into
danceﬂoors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and
spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer, celtic
and swing music, the entire bar begins to feel like a ferris
wheel ready to ﬂy oﬀ its axis and the boundaries of time are
obliterated. Yeah, we’ve had a few good ones here.QD-6,
ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. Open 09:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. BXW
April - May 2015
65
Sightseeing
Kraków has always been, in many respects, a charmed city.
With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement
of Wawel Hill, Kraków has fortuitously avoided destruction
since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area in the
13th century, growing into one of the most prominent
cities in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland
not to come out of World War II looking like a trampled
Lego set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on
the enchanted city centre during 45 years of supervision,
forced to erect their gray communist Utopia in the outlying
suburb of Nowa Huta. As a result, Kraków is today one
of the most beautiful showpieces of Eastern Europe - a
claim validated by its historic centre’s inclusion on the ﬁrst
ever UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978, along with the
nearby Wieliczka Salt Mine and only ten other places in the
world. A city of majestic architectural monuments, cobbled
thoroughfares, cultural treasures, timeless courtyards,
priceless artworks and legendary beer cellars and gardens,
Kraków’s historic centre is the pride of Poland.
WHAT TO SEE
Kraków’s centre can be divided into two main sections the Old Town and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter),
with Wawel (the former Royal Castle) towering between
them. These three areas are requisite for anyone visiting
the city - even if just for a day - and have been given their
own separate treatment with accompanying cultural
listings within this guide. Though one could spend their life
wandering in and out of the cobbled streets, courtyards,
cafes, clubs and museums of the Old Town and Kazimierz
(we’ve attempted to make a life out of it), don’t hesitate to
take a trip across the river into Podgórze - arguably the city’s
most evocative and mysterious district; the Jewish heritage
trail also naturally leads you from Kazimierz to Podgórze,
where the worst horror of Kraków’s Nazi occupation played
out and Schindler made a name for himself.
Kraków Sightseeing
Kraków is much more than cellar bars and pretty ladies
(though that might suffice for most). So put that drink
down and go discover the magic of this city, district by
district.
Just west of the Old Town lies Salwator - Kraków’s greenest
district, and home to one of its most unique outdoor
attractions, Kościuszko Mound. Within these pages you’ll
also ﬁnd a section devoted to Nowa Huta, one of only two
planned socialist realist cities ever built. Designed to be
the antithesis of everything Kraków’s Old Town represents,
both culturally and aesthetically, the commie comforts
of Nowa Huta are only a tram ride away. Those staying in
the area for a week or more should strongly consider day
trips to Wieliczka, Auschwitz-Birkenau and Tarnów,
information about all of which you’ll ﬁnd here by reading
on. However long your stay, the meticulously updated
information in this guide will help you make the most of it.
Enjoy exploring Kraków and Małopolska.
Find loads more content
and leave your comments at
krakow.inyourpocket.com
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KRAKÓW IN 24HRS
Kraków’s nucleus is the market square (p.68), and as
such, the ﬁrst thing you should do after dropping oﬀ
your bags is ﬁgure out how to get there - on foot, or via
krakow.jakdojade.pl (p.14) if you’re staying somewhere
beyond the conﬁnes of our map on p.139. Exploring
the ‘Royal Route’ (p.68) and the market square en
route to Wawel can take a full day if done correctly with
short stops/detours for culture, coﬀee and comfort
food - and it’s exactly what you should do if you’re
here with limited time. Have breakfast in Charlotte
(p.30), and later a cheap but memorable Polish lunch in
Restauracja w Francuskim (p.51), or go for more familiar
fare in Aperitif (p.34).
Make sure that your time on the market square coincides
with the turning of the hour so you hear the famous
hejnał mariacki (p.72) - the bugle call played from the
tower of St. Mary’s Basilica (p.73), and visit the church’s
interior to see the magniﬁcent altarpiece. Also take an
hour to visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.76)
inside the Cloth Hall and stand in awe of some of the
largest canvases you’ve ever seen in your life.
After lunch start working your way down ulica
Grodzka (C-4) towards Wawel, and make sure that you
stop inside St. Francis’ Basilica (p.73) quickly to see
Wyspiański’s colourful interiors and mind-blowing
stained glass window. After admiring the apostles
outside the Church of Saints Peter & Paul (p.72),
it’s on to Wawel Castle (p.82). If there’s plenty of
time consider a trip through the State Rooms, or rent
the audioguide for Wawel Cathedral; if not, content
yourself with simply admiring the architecture from the
castle’s interior courtyards (it’s free to walk around after
all) and later have a stroll along the riverbanks of the
Wisła River below the castle.
After dark head back to ul. Kanonicza for a romantic
dinner in Pod Nosem (p.50) or La Campana (p.39), or
backtrack a bit more to Pod Aniołami or Miód Malina
(p.49). After dinner return to the heart of the Old Town
for jazz in Piec’Art (p.60), cocktails in Baroque (p.57), or
Polish microbrews in Multi Qlti (p.60). For a late night
food tourism it’s Pijalnia Vódki i Piwa (p.62).
Alternatively, this is your chance to check out
Kazimierz (p.86); if you’re interested in a klezmer
concert get to Klezmer Hois (p.40) by 20:00, or just go
straight to Plac Nowy and start drinking in Alchemia
(p.64). Make sure you try at least a few ﬂavoured vodkas
(p.59) and if they do their magic, head to Singer (p.65)
after midnight to start dancing on tables. For late night
hunger pangs, ordering a zapiekanka (p.44) on Plac
Nowy (p.90) is basically obligatory. Now all that’s left to
do is fall in love and stay forever...
April - May 2015
67
The Royal Route
The Royal Route
MAIN MARKET SQUARE
Kraków’s main market square (Rynek) serves as the
city’s gravitational centre, and is the natural start and
ﬁnish point for any tour of the city. Originally designed
in 1257 - the year Kraków was awarded its charter - the
grid-like layout of the Old Town and its central square
have changed little in the centuries since. Measuring
200 metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the largest
medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded by
elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names
and histories. The Rynek has always been the city’s natural
assembly point for public celebrations, parades, protests
and even executions; it was here that homage to the
King was sworn until 1596, here that Tadeusz Kościuszko
famously inspired the locals to revolt against foreign rule
in 1794, and here also that ‘Der Führer’ himself announced
the name changed to ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ during Nazi
occupation. Fortunately the moniker didn’t last long
and today the Rynek remains a stage for Polish culture,
hosting annual Christmas and Easter markets, as well as
numerous festivals and outdoor concerts.
Taking centre stage is the huge Cloth Hall (Sukiennice)
- eﬀectively the world’s ﬁrst shopping mall, built in
the 14th century. To this day it is still crammed with
merchant stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork and
assorted tourist tat. Beneath it the hi-tech Rynek
Underground museum traces its history, as well as
that of the entire city, while the second ﬂoor hosts the
underrated 19th Century Polish Art Gallery.
On the square’s east side stands one of Kraków’s bestloved monuments - that of Poland’s most eminent
scribe, Adam Mickiewicz - between the Cloth Hall and
the Rynek’s other crowning glory, St. Mary’s Basilica.
Don’t miss Veit Stoss’ magniﬁcent altarpiece inside, or
hearing the hourly bugle call played from its tower.
On the square’s other side is the 70 metre Town Hall
Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall
remaining after many ﬁres, renovations and short-sighted
demolitions. From April until the end of December,
visitors can ascend up to the 3rd ﬂoor and look out on the
square below from the viewing point.QC-3.
© Conrad Cress/istockphoto.com
68 Kraków In Your Pocket
FOLLOWING THE ROYAL ROUTE
This walking tour from the train station to the Castle
takes you past most of the Old Town’s major sights more info on which you’ll ﬁnd in the following pages.
Floriańska Gate
Any exploration of Kraków’s Old Town should start with
the ‘Royal Route’ - the historical coronation path of the
Polish kings when Kraków served as the royal capital from
the 14th century to the very end of the 16th century.
Most of the Old Town’s prime sights lay along this route
from the Floriańska Gate to Wawel Castle. For many of less
noble lineage, however, the route begins at Kraków’s train
station (E-1), a walk from which to the main market square
is among the most regal and awe-inspiring introductions
to any city in Europe. Following the human traﬃc from the
station through the ul. Basztowa underpass will plant you in
the green space that encircles the Old Town known as the
Planty (D-2, p.70). Ideal for a fair weather stroll, the Planty
was once a series of medieval fortiﬁcations surrounded by a
moat. After Poland’s Third Partition in the late 18th century,
the order came down from Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph
I to dismantle these neglected structures, however thanks
to local eﬀort the northern parts of the wall were spared,
including the magniﬁcent Barbican and Floriańska Gate.
Walking the two blocks towards the Barbican, take note of
the Słowacki Theatre (D-2, p.69) to the left on ul. Szpitalna.
A marvellous Baroque masterpiece from 1893, while it’s a
bit diﬃcult to inﬁltrate during the day, buying an aﬀordable
ticket to the theatre is highly recommended. On ahead, the
circular fortress of the Barbican (D-2, p.69) was added to the
city’s defences in the late 15th century while, directly across
from it, the Floriańska Gate (D-2) that oﬃcially began the
Royal Route dates back to 1307. Pass through it and you’re on
one of Kraków’s main commercial streets. Behind the Golden
Arches, kebab and souvenir signs don’t fail to notice the
architectural detail of the facades. On this street you’ll ﬁnd
the Jan Matejko House and Museum (p. 79), as well as the
underappreciated Pharmacy Museum (C-2, p. 80).
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Arriving upon Kraków’s main market square or ‘Rynek’ (C3, p.68), you are now standing in the heart of Poland with
your ﬁnger on its pulse. Historically, culturally and spiritually
the Rynek and Wawel may be the two most important
sights in the country (sorry Warsaw). The largest medieval
market square in Central Europe, Kraków’s Rynek is 200
metres square and functions as the city’s social gravitation
point. Lined with cafes and restaurants, ﬁlled with people,
pigeons, street performers, musicians and horse-drawn
carriages, this is a place of festivals, concerts, parades and
other events. At its centre lies the impressive Cloth Hall
or ‘Sukiennice’ (p.76) - a neo-Gothic structure which
has served as a market for merchants since the Middle
Ages, and whose history you can now learn in the Rynek
Underground museum (p.80) housed beneath it, not to
mention the wonderful 19th Century Polish Art Gallery
(p.76) on the ﬁrst ﬂoor. Directly before you as you’re leaving
Floriańska is St. Mary’s Basilica - or Mariacki Cathedral
(p.73) - one of the most dazzling cathedrals in the country
famed for its incredible altarpiece and stained glass. It’s
from atop the taller of the two cathedral towers that a
bugler plays an abbreviated tune every hour on the hour don’t miss it. On the other side of the square you’ll ﬁnd the
Town Hall Tower (p.81), with a viewing platform at the
top and a theatre and restaurant in the former basement
prison.
Leaving the Rynek follow the kings down ul. Grodzka to
Plac Wszystkich Świętych (C-4). To the right is St. Francis’
Basilica (B/C-4, p.73) with an Art Nouveau interior by
Stanisław Wyspiański that should not be missed, while
directly before you are three more incredible Wyspiański
stained glass windows in a specially-made modern
building. Ulica Grodzka leads you past the Church of
Saints Peter & Paul (C-4, p.72) with its striking sculptures
of the 12 disciples before it. Cut across the small square to
your right and you’ll ﬁnd yourself on one of Kraków’s most
handsome streets, ul. Kanonicza. The late Pope John Paul
II’s former residence is at numbers 19-21, which now house
the Archdiocesan Museum (C-5, p.77). Kanonicza lets
out directly at the foot of Wawel Castle (B/C-5, p.82), the
city’s deﬁning landmark. A source of great pride, patriotic
and spiritual strength, Wawel is worth spending half a day
exploring, as well as the Wisła riverbanks below.
St. Francis’ Basilica
Zygmunt Put Zetpe0202 Wikipedia CC BY-SA 2.5
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SŁOWACKI THEATRE
Regarded today as an
architectural masterpiece,
the Słowacki Theatre came
under ﬁerce criticism
when construction began,
due to the demolition of
the medieval Church of
Photo: Artur Turyna, wawel.net the Holy Ghost to make
room for it. Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski modeled
his design on the Paris Opera and the structure is
distinguished for its elaborate facade decorated with
allegorical ﬁgures. Sadly, the interior is usually oﬀ limits
to the public unless there is a production on, however a
pleading look may be enough to get past this obstacle.
The foyer and marble staircase are supreme examples
of ﬁn-de-siecle thinking, and the lavish stage curtain
featuring paintings by Henryk Siemiradzki is alone
worth the deviousness needed to sneak in. Poland’s
ﬁrst cinema show was held here in 1896.QD-2, Pl.
Św. Ducha 1, tel. (+48) 12 424 45 25, www.slowacki.
krakow.pl. Open depending on repertoire. Guided
tours can be arranged by phone for 130zł (up to 40
people), but are only available in Polish at this time.
BARBICAN
© Andrzej Rostek - dollar photo club
The showpiece of the city’s medieval defences, the Barbican
was built at the end of the 15th century to protect Kraków’s
main entrance and was connected to the Floriańska Gate via
a drawbridge over the moat that surrounded it. 24.4 metres
in diameter with walls 3 metres thick this masterpiece of
medieval military engineering proved impenetrable and
today stands as one of the only surviving structures of its
kind in Europe; certainly the most well-preserved. Built
in Gothic style, the Kraków Barbican is topped by seven
turrets and includes 130 defensive slots used by archers
and riﬂemen. Today the Barbican is used for various special
events (medieval pageants, jousting contests) and can be
visited as an outdoor museum, where you’ll learn the history
of Kraków’s defensive walls.QD-2, ul. Basztowa, tel. (+48)
12 422 98 77, www.mhk.pl. Open from April 8th, 10:30 18:00. Admission 8/6zł, family ticket 16zł. Ticket includes
admission to the nearby City Defensive Walls. NY
April - May 2015
69
Old Town
Cracow City
Guides
invite you to the
best private tours
Professional, licensed city guides of Cracow and
Małopolska region are inviting you to private tours.
s
Half Day City Tour from 45 € *
s Half Day City tour and Jewish heritage from 45 € *
s Wieliczka Salt Mine private tour from 55 € *
s Auschwitz - Birkenau museum private tour from 65 € *
Also available: Full day city tour of Kraków, Zakopane
(winter capital of Poland), Pope John Paul II tour,
Jewish Heritage tour, Czestochowa tour, Ojcow tour
* price per person, please check the details of our offer.
Contact: guides@s-tours.pl
Ph: +48 531 498 480
Ofﬁce working hours: Mo-Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00
www.s-tours.pl
THE PLANTY
Once the site of the city’s 13th century defensive
fortiﬁcations, the moats were ﬁlled, the walls razed and
the towers demolished - with the notable exceptions of
the grand Floriańska Gate and impenetrable Barbican
- during Austrian occupation in the ﬁrst half of the
19th century. While today it’s easy to regret the shortsighted destruction of Kraków’s medieval city walls, we
can thank the Austrians for replacing them with this
lovely green strollway encircling the centre of the Old
Town. Known as the ‘lungs of the city,’ the Planty is one
of Kraków’s most unique and charming features - three
kilometres of public parks and gardens ﬁlled with trees,
ﬂowers, benches and historic monuments. Walking its
circuit would take over an hour, but represents a great
way to see the city. A popular place for street musicians
to perform, drunks to drink (note that drinking in public
will win you ﬁne from the police) and teenage couples
to make out, if you haven’t smooched someone on a
park bench in the Planty before leaving town, well then
you haven’t ﬁnished your itinerary.QC-4/5.
70 Kraków In Your Pocket
Old Town
GUIDED TOURS
TOURIST INFORMATION
If an authoritative print guide, website and app just aren’t
enough and you need someone to literally take you by the
hand (hey, we kid) there are plenty of tour companies to
choose from in Kraków and we list the best below. If you’re
wondering about the ever-popular antique horse-drawn
carriages that line the market square, routes and prices are
individually determined with the driver but rides generally
cost 250zł/hr, 150zł/30mins. Just don’t expect them to
disseminate any information about what you’re seeing
along the way (see, you might need our help after all); that
bright idea hasn’t occurred to anyone yet.
CRACOW CITY TOURS
Also at ul. Floriańska 44 (D-2, tel. 12 421 13 27, open 10:00 20:00).QD-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 13 33, www.
cracowcitytours.com. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Y
DISCOVERCRACOW.EU
Also at ul. Św. Jana 2 (C-3, open 08:00 - 20:00).QC3, Rynek Główny 30, tel. (+48) 12 346 38 99, www.
discovercracow.eu. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
CRACOW TOURS
A variety of tour packages available, including thematic
city centre tours and popular day-trips to Auschwitz,
the Wieliczka salt mines, Zakopane and more.QB-2, ul.
Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 430 07 26, www.cracowtours.
pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
INFOKRAKÓW
The oﬃcial tourist info oﬃce run by the city of Kraków,
with four other locations around the Old Town: ul. Św. Jana
2 (C-3), ul. Szpitalna 25 (D-2), ul. Powiśle 11 (B-5) and Pl.
Wszystkich Świętych 2 (C-4, Wyspiański Pavilion).QC-3,
Rynek Główny 1/3 (Cloth Hall), tel. (+48) 12 433 73 10,
www.infokrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. From May open
09:00 -19:00.
DISCOVERCRACOW.EU
This helpful tourist oﬃce oﬀers walking and electric car
tours of Kraków, plus airport transfers and excursions to
Wieliczka and other area attractions. Also at ul. Św. Jana 2
(C-3).QC-3, Rynek Główny 30, tel. (+48) 728 44 81 73,
www.discovercracow.eu. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
JORDAN TOURIST INFORMATION AND
ACCOMMODATION CENTRE
Also at ul. Długa 9 (C-1), the bus station (E-1) and ul. Gęsia 8
(Galaxy Hotel, K-3).QD-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 60
91, www.krakowhelp.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
FREE WALKING TOUR
As advertised, this outﬁt oﬀers free English-language
walking tours of the Old Town every day at 10:00 and 15:30,
with tours of Jewish Krakow at 11:00 and 14:30, plus much
more on their website. Tours leave from in front of St. Mary’s
Basilica on the market square (look for the ‘Free Walking
Tours’ sign), and are given by professional licenced tour
guides, so have some cash ready to tip these ﬁne people.
Qtel. (+48) 12 200 23 99, www.freewalkingtour.com.
MAŁOPOLSKA TOURIST INFORMATION
QC-4, ul. Grodzka 31/7, tel. (+48) 12 421 77 06, www.
mcit.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
S-TOURS
This family-owned outﬁt organises personalised guided
tours of Kraków and the surrounding region for individuals,
rather than standardised group trips. Airport transfers and
accommodation can also be arranged. For more info and
prices, contact them by email: guides@s-tours.pl.Qtel.
(+48) 531 49 84 80, www.s-tours.pl.
WOW KRAKOW!
Make sightseeing easier with this hop-on hop-oﬀ bus
service. With one ticket, you can use WOW KRAKOW’s
iconic (wiﬁ-enabled) red bus at your leisure for two days,
getting a guided tour of the town as it zips between 14
stops, where you can get oﬀ and on again as you wish.
The bus runs from about 09:30 - 18:30, appearing at each
stop every 30mins (exact schedule online). No booking
necessary, tickets are available online, from the driver (cash
only), or at the address listed.QD-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48)
601 50 21 29, www.hophopbus.pl. Tickets 60/40zł; 30zł
if you just want the tour without getting on and oﬀ the
bus; kids under 15 free.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
SEEKRAKOW
Also in the train station (E-1, open 06:00 - 22:00), at ul.
Grodzka 18 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:30), Pl. Wszystkich
Świętych 2 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:30) and the ul. Basztowa
underpass (D-2, open 09:00 - 20:30).QC/D-2, ul.
Floriańska 6, tel. (+48) 12 429 44 99, www.seekrakow.
com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
%
TOURIST CARD
The enterprising tourist
should consider picking up
the Kraków Tourist Card, a
superb piece of plastic that
allows you free entry to over
40 Kraków museums (that’s
basically all of them, except Wawel), and free travel
on trams and buses, day and night - including to and
from the airport and Wieliczka Salt Mine. An impressive
savings, two and three day cards are available, priced at
100zł and 120zł respectively. Every venue listed in our
guide which accepts the Kraków Tourist Card has been
marked with a Tourist Card symbol Y. Available at all
tourist information oﬃces, for a full list of vendors and
beneﬁts visit www.krakowcard.com.
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
AUSCHWITZ-BIRKENAU
FROM 80 PLN
WIELICZKA SALT MINE
FROM 80 PLN
KRAKÓW CITY TOUR
FROM 80 PLN
April - May 2015
71
Old Town
THE HEJNAŁ
Old Town
CHURCHES
While the religious sanctuaries in this city are almost
innumerable, we’ve used a bit of discrimination in only
listing the most remarkable and unavoidable of the bunch
here. The following places of worship are all located in
the Old Town, while Kazimierz, Podgórze and Nowa Huta
churches are listed in their respective sections.
One of the most captivating Cracovian traditions is the
hejnał (pronounced “hey-now”) – a short, melodious
bugle call played every hour, on the hour, in the four
cardinal directions from the left tower of St. Mary Basilica
(C-3). For centuries it has been the job of local ﬁremen
to climb the 239 steps to the top of the tower, ring the
church bell and perform the hejnał precisely on the hour.
A source of pride and family heritage for the few men
chosen to do it, the job requires not only great discipline,
but also bravery as local legend would have it. The ﬁrst
written mention of the song dates all the way back to
1392, and though its exact origins are unclear, it was
apparently used as a warning of ﬁres or invasions. As the
story goes, in 1241, as Tartar invaders crept near the city
gates for a nefarious nocturnal attack, a night watchman
saw them coming and played the signal from atop the
defensive walls to arouse the slumbering city to arms.
As he did so, an arrow pierced him through the throat,
abruptly suspending the song in mid-melody. To this day,
the tune likewise cuts oﬀ in mid-report to symbolise the
city’s vigilance, and commemorate the lone guardsman
who woke the city and thereby saved it.
It’s a nice story, and since trumpet calls were used
commonly across Europe during medieval times to
open and close the city gates, its entirely conceivable
that the legend is true. However, some have claimed
that the story of the arrow-stricken trumpeter is a
complete ﬁction made up in the 20th century. Polish
journalist Leszek Mazan even went so far as to suggest
that an American fabricated the whole ‘legend’ in
1929 (blasphemy!). Whatever its origin, any visitor
or Cracovian will surely attest that the hejnał’s living
tradition deﬁnes and shapes Kraków. In addition to
pleasing visitors able to witness the bugle call live
from the church tower every hour, the tune can also be
heard all over Poland when it is broadcast live over the
radio every day at noon.
CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL
Kraków’s premier Jesuit Church was built in the early 1600s,
and its crypt serves as the new national pantheon for Poles
distinguished in the arts, science and culture (Sławomir
Mrożek was the ﬁrst interred here in September 2013).
The twelve disciples standing on the gates outside are the
church’s most striking feature, although the interior has been
extensively renovated and the airy, austere grandeur of this
late Renaissance building is now evident. Possessors of a 46.5m
Foucault Pendulum - a device invented by French physicist
Leon Foucault in 1851 which proves the earth’s rotation, shows
demonstrating its use generally occur on Thursdays at 10:00,
11:00 and 12:00, but check their website to be sure.QC-4, ul.
Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65, www.apostolowie.pl.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon.
ST. ADALBERT’S
Kraków’s oldest church sits not unlike a lost orphan
at the southeast corner of the Cloth Hall - a mad mix of
pre-Roman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque
architecture. The earliest parts of the building date to the
11th century, thus pre-dating the Rynek and explaining
its seemingly random position within it. St. Adalbert had
his own cult following at the time, which explains how it
managed to survive. A look inside is well worth it, not least
because the ﬂoor sits some two metres below the surface
of the main square, but note that the church is currently
closed to visitors. In the meantime, church services and
daily concerts by the Royal Chamber Orchestra have been
moved to the church’s small chapel.QC-3, Rynek Główny,
tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52. Y
St. Mary’s Basilica (left) and St. Adalbert’s Church (right).
72 Kraków In Your Pocket
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ST. ANDREW’S
St. Andrew’s oﬀers the ﬁnest example of Romanesque
architecture in Kraków. Built between 1079 and 1098, it
has been a place of worship for 900 years and was used
as a refuge and fortress during Tartar invasions. Most of the
relics were looted anyway, making a trip inside a bit of a
letdown. Remodelled by Baldassare Fontana during the
mad-for-all-things-Baroque 18th century, note the pulpit
which resembles a boat - typical of the Baroque style.QC4, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 12. Open by prior
arrangement. No visiting during mass please.
ST. FRANCIS’ BASILICA
Kraków’s most colourful church, and our personal
favourite, thanks to the gorgeous Art Nouveau
interiors by native son Stanisław Wyspiański,
which nicely balance the organic and geometric
with unique ﬂoral patterns. Wyspiański also
made the eight stained-glass windows around
1895, including the controversial and iconic
centrepiece, ‘God the Father in the Act of
Creation.’ Dating back to the 13th century, St.
Francis’ Basilica was the ﬁrst brick building in
the city and is well worth popping in, even for
those who could care less for looking at another
church.QC-4, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel.
(+48) 12 422 53 76, www.franciszkanska.pl.
Open 10:00 - 16:00 except Sunday when there
is no visiting due to mass.
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Plac Mariacki 2
31-042 Kraków
tel.: 782 297 715
www.biancaristorante.pl
ST. MARY’S BASILICA
After Tartar raids in the 13th century left the original church
in ruins, St. Mary’s was rebuilt in Gothic style on the existing
foundations and consecrated in 1320. In the early 15th
century the towers took the iconic form they have today,
when the northern tower was raised to 80m high and
made into a watchtower for the city. It is from here that
the hejnał mariacki - the city’s famous bugle call - is played
every hour on the hour; don’t miss it.
Inside the altarpiece, stained glass windows, and blue, starﬁlled ceiling of St. Mary’s will take your breath away. The
magniﬁcent wooden altarpiece was the principal work
of 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz)
for twelve painstaking years, and depicts the Virgin Mary’s
Quietus among the apostles; if you’re here Mon-Sat at 11:50,
you’ll see the opening of the alter, after which it stays open
until 17:30. Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings
by Polish masters Matejko, Mehoﬀer and Wyspiański done
in the late 19th century. The church is available for worship
without paying an entry fee via the main entrance. Tourists
are asked to use a side entrance, however, and not visit
during services; we list the tourist visiting hours below.
From mid-April Mariacki Tower should also re-open to
tourists. An additional ticket is required, but prices were not
determined at press time. Tower closed to children under
7; kids 7-12 must be accompanied by an adult.QC-3, Pl.
Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.mariacki.com.
Open 11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 15
minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł. Y
April - May 2015
73
Old Town
KRAKÓW IYP ONLINE
Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re
actually only able to publish a fraction of all the
excellent content we have on Kraków and the
surrounding region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit
our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just
how much of the country we cover, and to download
guides to Warsaw, Gdańsk, Wrocław, Katowice and
other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small
sampling of great Kraków-related content we didn’t
have room for this issue, with links to where you’ll ﬁnd
it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!
TADEUSZ KOŚCIUSZKO
You’ve seen his name and image around town (whether
you realise it or not), but who is this handsome, namechallenged gentleman? Only the greatest Pole ever.
Check out our authoritative feature to learn all about
this hero of revolutions in America and Poland:
iyp.me/kosciuszko
PŁASZÓW CONCENTRATION CAMP
The story of the Holocaust in
Kraków didn’t end when the
Jewish Ghetto was liquidated.
Six to eight thousand
Jews were moved to this
concentration camp within the
city’s limits, where the horror
continued to unfold. We have
the most exhaustive English-language guide to the site:
iyp.me/plaszow
STAINED GLASS
Some of Kraków’s most iconic works of art aren’t
applied on canvas or carved in stone, but composed
of light and glass. Thanks to local luminaries like
Wyspiański, Mehoﬀer and Żeleński, Kraków is home to
some of the most awe-inspiring windows in the world,
and we tell you where to ﬁnd them here:
iyp.me/krakowstainedglass
POPE JOHN PAUL II
Born in nearby Wadowice,
Karol Wojtyła studied at
Jagiellonian University and
served as the city’s Bishop
before becoming Pope in
1978. Aside from the Vatican,
no city is more associated with
the late pope than Kraków,
which remained his spiritual home throughout his life.
IYP takes a look at his life, legacy and some of the local
sites associated with ‘Poland’s Pope’ in Kraków and the
surrounding region:
iyp.me/thepope
74 Kraków In Your Pocket
Old Town
GRUNWALD MONUMENT
MONUMENTS
ADAM MICKIEWICZ
One of the most important statues in Poland, the large
likeness of the romantic poet and national hero Adam
Mickiewicz (1798-1855) was originally unveiled in 1898 to
celebrate the centenary of the great man’s birth, and, like so
many other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the
occupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in
the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygier’s original,
and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place.
Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (who’s most famous work, Pan
Tadeusz begins with the words ‘Lithuania, my country!’ and
who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas
Mickevičius) never visited Kraków until 35 years after his
death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just down
the road at Wawel.QC-3, Rynek Główny.
EROS BENDATO
Among Kraków’s most well-known landmarks, this
sculpture in the western corner of the market square is
a popular meeting place and at some point serves as a
photographic backdrop for almost every tourist who visits
the city. Aﬀectionately referred to as ‘The Head’, the bronze
body part’s oﬃcial title is ‘Eros Bendato’ (Eros Bound) and is
the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj (1944 - 2014). A student
of Tadeusz Kantor at the Kraków School of Art, an exhibition
of 14 of Mitoraj’s monumental works dressed the Rynek
from October 2003 to January 2004, during which the artist
gifted this work to the city, sparking controversy over what
to do with it. Initially, the sculpture was designated for the
square in front of Galeria Krakowksa (E-2), but the artist was
indignant about having his work in front of a commercial
building. Despite protest from historians and many locals,
the sculpture eventually found its current place near the
Town Hall Tower, where it has become an unexpected
tourist attraction. In summer, children can be seen
crawling all over the hollow ediﬁce, sticking their heads
and limbs through the eyeholes for camera-snapping
parents, though winter too often ﬁnds it profaned with
trash and foul-smelling liquids. Fans of Mitoraj’s work will
ﬁnd another of his large sculptures - titled ‘Luci di Nara’ adorning the charming courtyard of Collegium Luridicum
(ul. Grodzka 53, C-4), and another in front of the Kraków
Opera building (ul. Lubicz 48, E-2).QB-3, Rynek Główny.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint armies of
Poland and Lithuania against the German-Prussian Teutonic
Knights on July 15, 1410, was one of the largest battles
of Medieval Europe, and is considered one of the most
important military victories in Polish history. This weighty
monument was unveiled in front of an estimated 160,000
people on the 500th anniversary of the event in 1910.
Unsurprisingly, Antoni Wiwulski’s original masterpiece was
destroyed by the occupying Nazis during WWII and the
copy you see today was made from his original sketches
and models in 1976. At the top on his horse is Polish King
Władysław Jagiełło, his sword pointing downwards in his
right hand. At the front is his cousin the Lithuanian prince
Vytautas (Vitold), who is ﬂanked on either side by victorious
soldiers from the joint army. The dead man at the front is
Urlich von Jungingen, the Teutonic Order’s Grand Master,
who lost his life during the battle.QD-1, Pl. Matejki.
JAN MATEJKO
Unveiled as recently as November 2013, this monument
pays homage to one of Poland’s greatest painters, and one of
Kraków’s most beloved sons. Famous for his epic and outsized
historical paintings, which have been reproduced enough to
become imprinted within the national psyche, Matejko’s work
can be seen throughout Kraków from Collegium Novum to
the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery in the Cloth Hall, to the
monumental polychrome he did inside St. Mary’s Basilica
in his ﬁnal years. Educated in Kraków and later principal
of the Academy of Fine Arts, Matejko also trained an entire
generation of great Polish painters, including Wyspiański,
Mehoﬀer and Malczewski. This impressive monument, which
depicts the artist seated within a large picture-frame, is the
work of Jan Tutaj, and located beside the Barbican along
what was Matejko’s daily walk from his home to the Fine
Arts Academy which now bears his name on nearby Plac
Matejki (also named in his honour). To learn more about
Matejko, visit his home and museum at ul. Floriańska 41 (D-3,
see Museums); die-hards can also visit his manor house (see
Nowa Huta Museums).QD-2, ul. Basztowa.
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April - May 2015
75
Old Town
THE CLOTH HALL
The iconic showpiece at the centre of the market
square, the origins and development of Kraków’s Cloth
Hall can be traced as those of the city itself. Proof of a
structure at this site dates back to the mid-13th century.
When King Kazimierz the Great approved construction
of a purpose-built trading hall in the mid-14th century,
Kraków’s importance as an east-west trading post
vastly increased and the city thrived. Though the
name ‘Sukiennice’ literally refers to textiles and fabrics,
Kraków’s Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities
bought and sold in its merchant stalls including wax,
spices, leather and silk, as well as lead and salt from
the nearby Wieliczka mines. After a ﬁre in the mid-16th
century, the Sukiennice was given a Renaissance facelift
by Jan Maria Padovano, making it the most magniﬁcent
building in all of Kraków. By the mid-1870s, however,
Poland had been partitioned for nearly a century and
the Cloth Hall was in a rather sorry state; the Austrians
tore down many of the outbuildings, and oversaw the
addition of the neo-Gothic colonnades and outside
arcades by Tomasz Pryliński, a student of Jan Matejko.
The interior was converted into a series of wooden
stalls and in 1879 the ﬁrst Polish National Museum was
established on the upper ﬂoor, making the Cloth Hall
the focus of a huge upsurge of Polish patriotism.
The 20th century saw much of the 19th century
interior replaced, but by the start of the 21st century,
it was again in need of attention in order to meet
the standards of a modern museum or commercial
area. From 2006 to 2010, the interiors were given
a complete modernisation and the 19th Century
Polish Art Gallery was reopened on the upper ﬂoor.
The building’s sloped attics were converted into lovely
terraces on the east side, where Cafe Szał now oﬀers
great views overlooking the market square and St.
Mary’s Basilica. Opened in 2010, the subterranean
Rynek Underground Museum details the historical
development of the area around the market square,
and the historical 1910 Noworolski Cafe on the
ground ﬂoor boasts Art Nouveau motifs by Jozef
Mehoﬀer. A stroll through the tourist stalls in the Cloth
Hall’s central thoroughfare is essential, after which you
can claim that you’ve been in world’s oldest shopping
mall.QC-3, Rynek Główny 1/3, www.mnk.pl.
© Andrzej Rostek - dollar photo club
76 Kraków In Your Pocket
Old Town
MUSEUMS
19TH CENTURY POLISH ART GALLERY
Open again after a lengthy closure, this magniﬁcent and
historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall covers Polish art
from in and around the 19th century, and its major trends
of portraiture and epic historical painting. Comprising four
rooms, the collection is refreshingly small, giving proper
attention to each piece, some of which are enormous and
all of which are gorgeously framed. Of particular interest
for their status as national treasures are the Italian-born,
Polish-resident Marceli Bacciarelli’s ‘Portrait of Stanisław
August Poniatowski in Coronation Dress’ from around 1790
and, a century on, Władysław Podkowiński’s famous ‘Frenzy’
from 1894. Other painters of note on display whose works
shouldn’t be missed include Jan Matejko, Jacek Malczewski,
Józef Chełmoński and Stanisław Witkiewicz. One of the perks
of a visit is access to the magniﬁcent balcony overlooking
the market square. Recommended.QC-3, Cloth Hall,
Rynek Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 00, www.mnk.
pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 14/8zł,
family ticket 26zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with
valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y
ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
Though fresh from a recent boost of cash, Kraków’s
Archaeology Museum may still seem out-dated and
underwhelming to many visitors, particularly in comparison to
Kraków’s other museums (mostly excellent) and natural history
museums they may have visited elsewhere. Nonetheless, it
has improved. In addition to the famous Zbruch Idol, regional
Stone Age artefacts and a charming room dedicated to local
clothing from 70,000 BC to the 14th century, the museum
houses a permanent collection of artefacts from ancient Egypt
including some beautiful shrouds, a number of intricately
decorated sarcophagi and some mummiﬁed cats. The latter
exhibition is best enjoyed with the aid of an audio guide,
available for an extra charge. Housed in an old monastery,
the biggest highlight of the Archaeology Museum may be its
beautiful garden (1zł charge if you aren’t visiting the museum)
- a great place to relax with fantastic views of Wawel in the
distance.QB-4, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 71 00, www.
ma.krakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00,
Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 9/6zł, Sun free for
permanent exhibitions. Audioguide 5zł. NY
krakow.inyourpocket.com
ARCHDIOCESAN MUSEUM OF CARDINAL
KAROL WOJTYŁA
John Paul II lived here - twice. Once as Karol Wojtyła, the
young priest with a penchant for skiing (his Head skis
are on show), and later as a bishop, in grander, adjacent
rooms. The Archdiocesan doubles as a small but wellpresented showcase of beautiful sacral art, some dating
back to the 13th century. Among the items on display,
you will ﬁnd presents to His Holiness from heads-ofstate. All very nice, but the exhibition will only hold
the attention of true papal enthusiasts, and visitors can
expect to be tailed by over-zealous curators. Guided
tours available for individuals and groups up to 25 people
in French, English and Polish. A second branch of this
museum - the Wojtyła Apartment at ul. Tyniecka 10 (H-4)
- shows the apartment where the future pope lived with
his father in the late 1930s (open Wed, Sat and Sun only
10:00 - 14:00, free admission).QC-5, ul. Kanonicza 1921, tel. (+48) 12 421 89 63, www.muzeumkra.diecezja.
pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 5/3zł, family ticket 12zł. Guided tours
60zł. YN
CITY DEFENSIVE WALLS
This small, seasonal ‘museum’ is in turns uninformative
and overly informative, but basically it gives you a chance
to climb around what’s left of Kraków’s 13th century
defensive walls. Intended as the ﬁrst leg of a combined
visit with the nearby Barbican, you’ll pass a few silly
mannequins, watch a strange video, and have some
great photo opportunities over Floriańska Street, while
walking the short length of wall between Kraków’s three
surviving defensive towers, learning about the 40-odd
others demolished by the Austrians in the 18th century.
QD-2, ul. Pijarska, tel. (+48) 12 421 13 61, www.mhk.
pl. Open from April 8th, 10:30 - 18:00. Admission
8/6zł, family ticket 16zł. Ticket includes admission to
the Barbican. NY
EUROPEUM CENTRE FOR EUROPEAN CULTURE
Located in a 17th century granary on formerly-forgotten
Sikorski Square, this new branch of the National Museum
was opened as recently as September 2013 and houses
the city’s large collection of European painting and
sculpture, in addition to hosting lectures, concerts
and other events. Displaying Lorenzo Lotto’s 1507 The
Adoration of the Infant Jesus - the consensus ‘mostvaluable foreign work’ in the possession of Kraków’s
National Museum, other highlights include John the
Baptist Preaching by Pieter Brueghel the Younger,
The Crucifixion by Paolo Veneziano, and more early
Renaissance Italian paintings. While we’re happy to see
this collection ﬁnd a permanent home, those who have
seen their share of European art museums can probably
justify skipping it.QA-3, Pl. Sikorskiego 6, tel. (+48) 12
433 57 60, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket
18zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID)
1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free. Y
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JAGIELLONIAN UNIVERSITY
COLLEGIUM MAIUS
Jagiellonian University’s oldest building (and one of
the oldest in Kraków), Collegium Maius was built as the
university’s main campus in the late 14th century, 36
years after the university’s founding. A century later it was
redesigned as the late-Gothic structure surrounding the
picturesque arcaded courtyard that has survived to this
day. While professors lived and worked upstairs, it was in
the ground ﬂoor lecture halls that Nicolaus Copernicus
made doodles in the margins of his notebooks in the
1490s. Today a museum, visitors can explore the interiors
and exhibits on their own or reserve a place on one of
the daily guided tours for the same price. A full hour-long
tour in English is given Mon-Fri at 13:00 (16/12zł), while
more basic 30-minute tours in English depart every 20
minutes (12/6zł); it is suggested, however, that you call
or visit in advance to reserve yourself a place on any of
the tours. Inside you’ll visit the lecture halls, common
rooms, professors’ quarters, library and treasury, seeing
some fabulous interiors, paintings, furniture, medieval
scientiﬁc instruments, rectors’ maces and other
university memorabilia along the way, as well as the
oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas. There is
also a separate interactive exhibit about mathematics
entitled Everything...is a Number (open 09:00 - 13:30;
closed Sun. Admission 7/5zł). Another highlight of
visiting is the courtyard clock, from which wooden
historical ﬁgures appear and parade past to music from
the mid-16th century every two hours between 09:00
and 17:00. The building’s courtyard also houses a gift
shop and cafe, and don’t miss the beautiful Professors’
Garden just next door (accessible via a beautiful painted
passageway).QB-3, ul. Jagiellońska 15, tel. (+48) 12
663 13 07, www.maius.uj.edu.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:20;
Tue, Thu 10:00 - 17:20; closed Sun. Admission 12/6zł
for permanent exhibit, 16/12zł for entire museum.
Admission free for self-guided tours on Tuesdays from
15:00 - 17:20. N
April - May 2015
77
Old Town
FORMER GESTAPO CELLS
Consisting of two separate exhibits, Ulica Pomorska
oﬀers the most chilling museum experience in Kraków
(which is saying something). Located in the Dom Śląski,
or ‘Silesian House,’ this infamous building became the
Kraków headquarters of the Gestapo during WWII,
who converted its cellars into detention cells for the
interrogation and torture of political prisoners. These
cells have been preserved and are free and open to
the public as the ‘Former Gestapo Cells’ - immediately
to your right as you enter the courtyard. Though the
attendant will encourage you to enter straight away, we
recommend you begin with the building’s main exhibit
‘People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956,’
entered via a staircase in the corner of the courtyard.
This ambitious and excellent exhibit takes visitors
chronologically through the city’s not-so-distant past,
illustrating the terror and tyranny of both the Nazi and
Stalinist regimes in Kraków through an abundance of
documents, photographs, audio recordings and other
archival materials. From the ﬁrst victims executed by
the Nazis to the communist show trials of the mid50s, the stories of individual citizens and their varying
experiences and reactions to both regimes is revealed
in vivid and sometimes distressing detail.
While the broad, more traditional museum presentation
of this history is aﬀecting enough, the immediacy of
the Gestapo cells is truly haunting. An unimaginable
600 inscriptions scratched into the walls by prisoners
awaiting their fate remain intact and provide a shocking,
sobering and undeniable account of the suﬀering of
hundreds of Cracovians during Nazi occupation. As you
might expect, there are no fairy-tale endings here, so
prepare yourself for the blunt force trauma of human
tragedy. A worthwhile and memorable experience,
reserve at least 90 minutes for visiting. Ulica Pomorska
is a 20min walk from the market square, near the tram
stop ‘Plac Inwalidów.’QH-1, ul. Pomorska 2, tel. (+48)
12 633 14 14, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30.
Closed Mon. Admission 7/5zł, family ticket 14zł, Tue
free. Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free. Y
Old Town
GALLERY OF ANCIENT ART
This small branch of the National Museum is also a
satellite of the Czartoryski Museum across the street, and
brings together three unique collections of ancient art
amassed abroad during the 19th and 20th centuries by
the Czartoryski family, the Potocki family of Krzeszowice
and the Kraków National Museum. On display are
artefacts primarily from ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome
dating from between 3000 BC to the 7th century AD,
with highlights including marble sculptures, Egyptian
sarcophagi and animal mummies. It’s amazing that these
items found their way to Kraków and they provide an
interesting look at the material culture of the ancient
world, but are hardly required viewing for those without a
special interest in antiquity.QC-2, ul. Pijarska 8, tel. (+48)
12 422 55 66, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/5zł, familly ticket 17zł, kids 7-16 and
students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free;
Sunday free for permanent exhibitions. Y
HIPOLIT HOUSE
The Hipolit’s were a merchant family who lived in this
ﬁne building around the end of the 16th and beginning
of the 17th centuries, although the building dates back
considerably further than that. The inside has been
transformed into a series of recreations of typical Polish
bourgeois living spaces from the 17th to early 20th century,
and is interesting for the insights it gives into how the
other half lived as well as being a showcase for some truly
remarkable furniture and antiques. Worth a visit.QC-3, Pl.
Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl. Open
10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 9/7zł, family ticket 18zł. Wed
free. NY
HISTORY MUSEUM
Established in 1899, Kraków’s History Museum - also known
as Krzystofory Palace - has been undergoing an extensive
transformation over the last several years, including the
renovation of the 17th century Baroque building that
houses it, the complete digitisation of the museum
collection, and the preparation of a new ambitious
permanent exhibit. The ﬁrst part of the future permanent
exhibit, titled Cyberteka. Kraków - Time & Space, is now
open and chronicles the spatial and urban development
of the city from its earliest beginnings until about 1915,
via spiﬀy multimedia displays and 3D ﬁlms. The building is
also home to a large museum shop with lots of souvenirs,
posters, books and other information available.QC-3,
Rynek Główny 35, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 03, www.mhk.
pl. Open Tue - Sun 10:00 - 17:30; closed Mon. Admission
12/8zł, family ticket 24zł. Y
HOME ARMY MUSEUM
This beautifully restored 3-ﬂoor red-brick railway building
has been adapted (including a gorgeous glass atrium)
to house the Home Army Museum - documenting the
size, organisation and eﬀorts of Poland’s underground
military resistance from the time of the failed September
78 Kraków In Your Pocket
krakow.inyourpocket.com
preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in this relatively
small museum. A fascinating tribute to a genuine Polish
master, and a man of many parts. Those with a special
interest in Matejko may want to visit his workshop and
manor house in Nowa Huta (see Nowa Huta Museums),
and the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery where many of his
greatest works are displayed.QD-3, ul. Floriańska 41, tel.
(+48) 12 433 59 60, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family
ticket 18zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid
ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent
exhibitions. Y
campaign of 1939 to the underground armed forces oﬃcial
disbanding in 1945. The Home Army’s continuing ﬁght for
freedom within the country’s two occupied zones (Nazi
and Soviet) is one of World War II’s less acknowledged
aspects, and though this enormous museum goes to great
length to demonstrate that Poland’s government, military
and civilian population never surrendered, the sprawling
exhibits are confusing and chaotically organised; as a
result you may want to dish out the 100zł for a guided tour.
Nevertheless it’s a must for those interested in WWII history,
and you should reserve at least two hours for visiting.QJ1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70, www.
muzeum-ak.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00; closed Mon. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 13/7zł. Sun
free for permanent exhibit. YU
HUTTEN-CZAPSKI MUSEUM
Located in a 19th century neo-Renaissance palace in the
very centre of Kraków, this new branch of the Kraków
National Museum houses a comprehensive collection of
Polish ‘numismatics’ - that is, antique Polish coins, banknotes
and medals. The collection of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski,
who once owned the place, also includes old books,
manuscripts, maps and other national memorabilia from
the medieval period to today. As we’ve come to expect,
the displays are gorgeous and additional info (in Polish and
English) about each artefact is conveyed via touchscreen
computers. The palace and gardens themselves have been
stunningly restored (and are guarded by a fantastic gargoyle
out front), but nonetheless this one should probably be
reserved for die hard Polish patriots with a fascination for
coin collecting. Is that you?QA-3, ul. Piłsudskiego 12, tel.
(+48) 12 433 58 40, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family
ticket 18zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid
ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent
exhibitions. Y
JAN MATEJKO HOUSE
Jan Matejko was Poland’s greatest historical painter whose
work and life is honoured in the house where he was born,
lived and would eventually die in the 1890s. As well as
some witty imaginings of Kraków medieval life, studies
for gargoyles, and collections of Renaissance furniture and
antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of Matejko’s life is
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
JÓZEF MEHOFFER HOUSE
Mehoﬀer was one of the turn of the 20th century’s artistic
elite, a skilled stained-glass artist collaborating with
Wyspiański on the interiors of numerous Kraków churches,
as well as his own installations across Galicia. This, his
house, was where the artists of the Młoda Polska (Young
Poland) movement often met and is a delight to visit,
ﬁlled with elegant furnishings, Art Deco to impressionistera art and many sketches, designs and ﬁnished stained
glass pieces that attest to his important artistic legacy.
In warmer months you won’t ﬁnd a more magical place
to relax and read a book than the hidden garden behind
the house, presided over by Meho Cafe - one of the city’s
best-kept secrets.QA-2, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12
433 58 80, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 18zł, kids 7-16 and
students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free;
Sunday free. Y
POLISH AVIATION MUSEUM
Located on one of the oldest military airﬁelds in Europe,
this oft-overlooked, but highly regarded museum holds a
premier collection of aircraft, artefacts and exhibits related
not only to Polish, but world aviation history and heritage.
Following a recent investment, the museum features a
new exhibition building bursting with hi-tech goodies, a
cinema, an interactive space for children, library, museum
shop and extensive collection of historic aircraft. The
original exhibits in the airﬁeld’s numerous hangars and
out-buildings are stuﬀed with old photographs, engines,
uniforms and plenty more airplanes, helicopters and
gliders, while the yards surrounding them are literally
littered Russian-built ﬁghter jets from the days of the
Warsaw Pact. While many of the displays are in Polish
only, this is still a great outing (Dads love it) that can take
the better part of a day to explore thoroughly. A bit out
of the centre in the direction of Nowa Huta, to get there
take tram 52 from ‘Dworzec Główny’ (the train station) to
‘Muzeum Lotnictwa.’QAl. Jana Pawła II 39 (Czyżyny),
tel. (+48) 12 642 87 00, www.muzeumlotnictwa.
pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. From May open
09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 14/7zł, Tue free.
YU
April - May 2015
79
Old Town
MANGGHA
The Museum of Japanese Art & Technology houses
the National Museum’s Japanese artefacts, consisting
primarily of local legend Feliks Jasieński’s fabulous
6,500-piece collection, featuring samurai armour,
antiques, porcelain, incredibly beautiful watercolour
paintings and comical wood-prints. The modern
building was funded by legendary Polish film director
Andrzej Wajda upon winning the Kyoto city prize in
1987, and includes temporary exhibition space (check
their website for specifics), a shop and sushi bar. A new
wing is currently under construction and set to open
in summer 2015.QB-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48)
12 267 27 03, www.manggha.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, family ticket 25zł,
children 7-16 years 1zł (does not apply to groups),
group ticket 60zł (up to 30 people), Tue free. Guided
tours 100zł.
NATIONAL MUSEUM, MAIN BUILDING
Far from being the shoeless peasants many cynical
historians would have us believe, previous generations
of Poles have in fact excelled in the arts. The superb
National Museum of Art in Kraków showcases many such
examples of their work. As well as a number of worldclass temporary shows (for which separate tickets are
required, admission varies), the museum also houses
ﬁne collections of Polish applied arts and weaponry and
gives its entire top ﬂoor over to the permanent 20thcentury Polish Art exhibition - a truly awesome collection
showcasing the works of such visionaries as Kantor,
Wyspiański and Witkacy that any gallery would be more
than proud of owning. Aside from perhaps Wawel, this is
the largest museum in Kraków, so you’d be wise to focus
on what you’re most interested in; to see it all would take
the entire day. The museum also houses a small shop and
café.QH-3, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, www.
mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission for permanent exhibits 11/6zł, family
KRAKÓW
NATIONAL MUSEUM
Visitors should note that all
branches of the National
Museum are free on
Sundays, and students
under 26zł (with proper ID)
pay only 1zł all other days.
Also, ambitious tourists
can buy one ticket that is
valid for all branches for
six months for only 35/28zł; that’s a heck of a deal and
includes the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery, Europeum,
Gallery of Ancient Art, Hutten-Czapski Museum, Jan
Matejko House, Józef Mehoﬀer House, the National
Museum - Main Building, and the Szołayski House. Y
80 Kraków In Your Pocket
Old Town
ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with
valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Admission
to permanent and temporary exhibits 28/19zł, family
ticket 31zł. Admission for temporary exhibits varies
depending on the exhibit. Y
PHARMACY MUSEUM
Located inside a wonderful 15th-century building,
Kraków’s brilliant Pharmacy Museum is laid out over ﬁve
ﬂoors and includes all manner of exhibits from full-scale
reproductions of ancient apothecary shops to some
beastly snakes in jars and, on the top ﬂoor, a really good
display of traditional herbal medicines. Also of note is
an exhibit dedicated to the extraordinary and brave
Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who operated a pharmacy in
the Kraków Ghetto during WWII. Overall, this surprising
museum is a lot more interesting than it sounds.QC2, ul. Floriańska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.
muzeumfarmacji.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:30, Tue 12:00 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before
closing. Admission 9/6zł. N
RYNEK UNDERGROUND
This hi-tech and highly popular museum takes visitors
four metres under the surface of the market square to
explore the recently excavated medieval merchant stalls
that predate today’s Cloth Hall, and to experience the
city’s entire history - from its ﬁrst settlers right up today
over the course of some 6,000 metres of multimedia
exhibits. Because of the museum’s popularity, and the
fact that it is limited to only 300 people at a time, timed
tickets should be bought in advance to avoid long
queues or the disappointment of no ticket availability.
This can be done either online or from the information
oﬃce confusingly located on the opposite side of
the Cloth Hall from the museum entrance. The actual
museum entrance is located on the side opposite St.
Mary’s Basilica, of course, and once you’ve negotiated the
scrum of getting inside your experience begins with a
short ﬁlm projected on a wall of smoke, before following
the trail of truly remarkable exhibits displayed in what
is essentially an archaeological site. Relying heavily
on touch-screens and holograms, highlights include
a fascinating look into life before Kraków received its
charter and the market square was laid out, displays on
trade and transport in the city, a fantastic area for kids
that includes a performance by automated puppets,
and the remains of an 11th-century cemetery replete
with ‘vampire prevention burials’ (seriously). Visitors
should also reserve time to view the excellent series of
short, subtitled documentaries covering diﬀerent ages of
Krakow’s history at the end of the tour route. In addition
to the multilingual displays, audio guides are available
in English, German, French, Russian, Italian and Spanish.
QC-3, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www.
mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Tue
10:00 - 16:00. Every ﬁrst Tue closed. Last entrance
75 minutes before closing. Admission 19/16zł, family
ticket 38 zł, Tue free. Audioguide 5zł. Y
krakow.inyourpocket.com
STAINED GLASS MUSEUM
Located in the premises of S.G.
Żeleński’s historic stained glass
studio, this ‘living museum’
oﬀers the truly unique
opportunity of visiting an
active stained glass workshop,
where you’ll witness masters at
work, learn the artistic process
involved in producing largescale glass installations, and see some superb designs
and examples of ﬁnished works from throughout the over
hundred-year history of the studio. Known as the ‘cradle
of Polish stained glass art,’ Żeleński opened this studio in
1902 as a place for the best artists of the Młoda Polska/Art
Nouveau era to meet and work, including such luminaries
as Wyspiański, Mehoﬀer and Stefan Matejko (nephew of
Jan). Many of PL’s most outstanding examples of stained
glass were created here, and today the studio remains the
largest of its kind in the country. Visiting is only possible
with a guide and the approximately 45-min tour is oﬀered
Thurs, Fri and Sat at 12:00 in English, and 13:00 in Polish.
Tours (also available in German, Spanish, Italian, French,
Russian and Ukrainian) for groups of 5 or more can also
be arranged at other times if done so in advance, as can
stained glass workshops. Though more expensive than
other museums, a visit is absolutely worth it for fans of
the medium, as well as Art Nouveau enthusiasts.QH3, Al. Krasińskiego 23, tel. (+48) 512 93 79 79, www.
muzeumwitrazu.pl. Open Thurs-Sat at 12:00 and 13:00
for guided tours only, and by prior arrangement; closed
April 4. Guided tours 32/24zł per person in English;
25/18zł in Polish. N
SZOŁAYSKI HOUSE
There are two exhibitions at the moment. ‘Maurycy
Gottlieb: Searching for Identity’ focuses on the short but
proliﬁc career of this Polish-Jewish realist painter (and star
pupil of Jan Matejko) from the Romantic period; the exhibit
runs only until May 3rd (admission 11/7zł, family 20zł). On
the ground ﬂoor is a small free exhibit honouring Kraków’s
Grand Dame of poetry Wisława Szymborska by displaying
articles collected from her apartment after her passing in
2012; the exhibit closes at the end of June. The Tribecca
cafe on the ground ﬂoor is also a great place to recharge
the batteries.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54
50, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission free. YU
KRAKÓW STREET ART
Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with
large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known
internationally for their high artistic quality; anyone who
makes the strongly recommended visit to Kraków’s Poster
Gallery (ul. Stolarska 8-10, C-3) will easily discover why.
With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that
Poles would have a penchant for street graphics as well.
And they do. In Kraków, as in other cities around PL, street
art is currently going through a tidal wave of popularity,
and in the last few years new street murals have become
a common sight around Kraków’s city centre. More
restaurants and businesses are turning to street artists to
playfully embellish their public spaces, and city authorities
have even taken the surprising step of sponsoring some
large scale murals around the city centre. In fact, the
emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised
artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in
Kraków’s urban landscape between both sanctioned and
unsanctioned works of ‘graﬃti art’ and the proliﬁc gang
signs, slurs and football-related graﬃti that city paint crews
have targeted in their war on ‘vandalism.’
At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have
little trouble tracking it down in Kraków, and we’re
making it even easier. On the maps in the back of our
print guide we’ve marked street art locations with a
spray can symbol , so you can literally use them to
give yourself a tour of Kraków’s urban art. Not only that,
but we’ve put it all online with GPS coordinates as well,
so that those with a smartphone can use the mobile
version of our website (m.krakow.inyourpocket.
com) or iPhone application to do the work for them.
We encourage you to do just that, and check out some
of Kraków’s alternative artistic visions.
TOWN HALL TOWER
After many ﬁres, renovations and uncaring demolitions, the
only element of the 14th century Town Hall remaining is
this 70m-high tower, proudly standing next to the Cloth
Hall. Ascend your way up three ﬂights to the observation
deck for photogenic views of the Rynek, and on your way
take a look at the photography exhibition of Kraków during
the 1960s.QC-3, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 43
34, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Admission 8/6zł,
family ticket 16zł. YN
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April - May 2015
81
Wawel
Wawel
CROWN TREASURY & ARMOURY
Containing Poland’s very own equivalent of the Crown
Jewels among its many wonders, the Crown Treasury
& Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the
world of the sumptuous, extravagant and brutally
violent. To the left, the Crown Treasury features several
glass cases of golden and bejewelled goblets, platters,
coins and other marvels, of which Szczerbiec - the
country’s original coronation sword - is the ultimate
highlight. To the right the Armoury contains a wealth
of weaponry including some exceedingly swanky
crossbows and a frightening array of spiky pikes, while
the cellar holds a collection of cannons and replicas
of the banners captured at the Battle of Grunwald.
QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Mon 09:30 - 13:00; Sat, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 18/11zł, Mon free. Check ticket office for
ticket availability.
LOST WAWEL
This smartly conceived and executed exhibit presents
the remaining fragments of medieval Wawel, including
remnants of the Rotunda of the Virgin Mary (Kraków’s ﬁrst
church). A computer generated model of Wawel gives
visitors a peek into the early 10th century construction.
QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Mon 09:30 - 13:00; Sat, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 10/7zł, Mon free. Check ticket oﬃce for
ticket availability.
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The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of
the hill of the same name immediately south of the Old
Town (B-5), is by far the most important collection of
buildings in Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, selfrule and not least of all ﬁerce patriotism, Wawel oﬀers a
uniquely Polish version of the British Buckingham Palace
and Westminster Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous
assortment of predominantly Romanesque, Renaissance
and Gothic architecture dating from around the 14th
century onwards, Wawel is the crown jewel of Kraków’s
architectural treasures and required visiting for Poles and
foreigners alike.
Even for those who know or care little about the
country’s past, Poland’s ancient seat of royalty
contains a vast wealth of treasures inside its heavily
fortified walls that can’t fail to inspire. Made up of
the Castle and the Cathedral, of which the former
contains most, but by no means all of the exhibitions,
Wawel’s must-see highlights include the Cathedral’s
mind-boggling interior, a tantalising glimpse of
Poland’s very own crown jewels inside the Crown
Treasury and, weather permitting, a leisurely stroll
around its courtyards and gardens. After the April
2010 Smolensk disaster, Wawel’s Royal Crypts
became the final resting place of President Lech
Kaczyński and his wife Maria; their tombs are open to
the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which
is hard work but comes with its own rewards, can take
an entire day.
82 Kraków In Your Pocket
CASTLE
Wawel’s prominence as a centre of political power predates
the building of the ﬁrst Cathedral on the site in 1000AD.
Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a
fortiﬁed castle before Poland’s ﬁrst ruler, Mieszko I (circa
962-992) chose Wawel as one of his oﬃcial residences.
The ﬁrst Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the
teenage Władysław the Short (1306-1333) on January 20,
1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further 35 royal
rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All of these
rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of them added
their own architectural details to the building. The moving
of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Poland’s subsequent
decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle fall into a state
of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used it as a military
hospital and even went so far as to demolish several buildings
including a number of churches on the site. The 20th century
saw the Castle change hands on a number of occasions, with
the huge ongoing renovation works that continue to this day
being halted for a number of reasons, most famously when
the Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor
General, Hans Frank, during the German occupation of WWII.
Today’s Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles
including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and
Baroque. The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is
a true architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained
within do much to contribute to Kraków’s rightful status as a
truly world-class city.QB-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 22 422 51
55 ext.219, www.wawel.krakow.pl.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
ORIENTAL ART
This exhibit in the western wing of the castle comprises
art from the Near East which was highly prized and
fashionable amongst the Polish nobility as it entered
the kingdom via military and trade contact with Turkey,
Iran, the Caucasus and Crimea. Visitors will see unique
collections of Chinese ceramic and Japanese porcelain,
but the part of the exhibit that makes it essential are
the trophies, banners, weapons and other artefacts
captured during King Jan Sobieski III’s famous victory
over the Turkish army at Vienna in 1683, including
Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha Para’s sabre.
QOpen 09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 8/5zł.
SANDOMIERSKA TOWER
One of Wawel’s two artillery towers, Sandomierska
Tower was built around 1460 to defend the castle
against attack from the south. A small chamber on
the third floor would have served as either a guard’s
lodging or a prison for nobles, whereas common
criminals were held in the dungeons. Recently opened
to tourists, climb the 137 winding steps for great photo
opportunities, particularly of the castle courtyard and
Cathedral.QOpen from April 26, 10:00 - 17:00. From
May open 10:00 - 18:00 (except May 1-3 open 10:00 19:00). Admission 4zł. Children under 7 free. Tickets
are sold from a machine outside the entrance (coins
only).
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
The renaissance courtyard at Wawel
Photo by Stanisław Michta
STATE ROOMS & ROYAL PRIVATE APARTMENTS
Two collections in one, of which the latter is only
accessible on a specially conducted guided tour, these
are the rooms in which the royals once lived and did their
entertaining. The spectacular State Rooms seemingly go
on forever (reserve about 40mins for visiting), and are full
of luscious oil paintings, intricate 16th-century Flemish
tapestries, some truly extraordinary wallpaper and the
breathtaking Bird Room. Highlights include the eerie
Deputies Hall, complete with 30 wooden representations
of former Kraków residents’ heads on the coﬀered ceiling
and an original throne that really brings the majesty
of Poland’s past to life. The Royal Private Apartments,
meanwhile, are equally stunning. Packed with delightful
Gothic and Renaissance details, your 40-60 guided tour
will include the wonderful Guest Bedroom, complete
with original Renaissance larch wood ceiling, and the
charmingly named Hen’s Foot - two small rooms inside
the 14th-century Belvedere Tower, which oﬀer great
views.QOpen 09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00;
closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission to State Rooms 18/11zł; Royal Apartments
25/19zł.
The Senator’s Hall
Photo by Anna Stankiewicz
April - May 2015
83
Wawel
Wawel
CATHEDRAL MUSEUM
Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtyła just before he became
Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum features
a wealth of religious and secular items dating from the 13th
century onwards, all related to the ups and downs of the
Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable possessions
is the sword deliberately snapped into three pieces at
the funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August (15481572) the last of the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as all
manner of coronation robes and royal insignias too boot.
QB-5, Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedrawawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing.
WAWEL VISITOR CENTRE
Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are
timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To
guarantee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand
in long queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve
tickets for the exhibition you want to see at least one
day before you visit. Tickets should be collected at
the Wawel Visitor Centre Reservation Oﬃce at least
30mins before the reserved tour time. All exhibits are
self-guided except for the Royal Apartments, however
foreign language guides can be arranged at extra cost
if done in advance. In addition to ticket sales and pickup, the Visitor Centre is also the place to get more info
about various theme tours on oﬀer, pick up free maps
or make use of the small post oﬃce, gift shop, café/
restaurant and toilets.QB-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12
422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open
09:00 - 19:00.
CATHEDRAL
The scene of the crowning of almost every Polish king
and queen throughout history, the current Wawel
Cathedral is the third to be built on the site. The ﬁrst
cathedral was built of wood, probably around 1020,
but certainly after the founding of the Bishopric of
Kraków in 1000AD. Destroyed by ﬁre it was replaced
by a second cathedral that subsequently burnt down
again. The current building was consecrated in 1364 and
built on the orders of Poland’s ﬁrst king to be crowned
at Wawel, Władysław the Short (aka. Władysław the
Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who was crowned among the
charred rubble of its predecessor in 1319. Considered
the most important single building in Poland, Wawel’s
extraordinary Cathedral contains much that is original,
although many glorious additions have been made
over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning as that of
its cousin St. Mary’s on the Rynek, the interior of Wawel
Cathedral more than makes up for its visual shortcomings
thanks to the sheer amount of history packed inside. At
its centre is the imposing tomb of the former Bishop
of Kraków, St. Stanisław (1030-1079), a suitably grand
monument dedicated to the controversial cleric after
whom the Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all
of them about as ostentatious as you’re ever likely to see,
of particular interest is the 15th-century Chapel of the
Holy Cross, found to the right as you enter and featuring
some wonderful Russian murals as well as Veit Stoss’
1492 marble sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. The Royal
Crypts oﬀer a cold and atmospheric diversion as the
ﬁnal resting place of kings and statesmen - most recently
fromer president Lech Kaczyński - while at the top of a
gruelling wooden series of staircases is the vast, 11 tonne
Sigismund Bell - so loud it can supposedly be heard
50km away.QB-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 27,
www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun
12:30 - 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
84 Kraków In Your Pocket
ROYAL CRYPTS
While all Poland’s pre-16th kings were buried beneath or
within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral
today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I
had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault.
He joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in
the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of
nine more Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their
children thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and
kingdom itself), the honour was extended to statesmen
with Prince Józef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kościuszko
(1818), poets Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Słowacki
(1923), Józef Piłsudski (1935) and General Władysław Sikorski
(1993) all securing themselves a place here. Most recently in April of 2010 - the late President Lech Kaczyński and his
wife Maria were controversially interred here after the tragedy
in Smoleńsk; admission to their tomb (and that of Piłsudski)
is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral into the
remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th century
St. Leonard’s Crypt - the best Romanesque interior in PL; the
exit deposits you back outside.QB-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12
429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 12:30 - 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
CATHEDRAL TICKETS
The Cathedral and the Castle have diﬀerent ticket
oﬃces. Tickets for the Cathedral can be purchased
only in the ticket oﬃce directly opposite the Cathedral
entrance. While entrance to the actual cathedral itself
is free you will need a ticket to enter the adjoining
Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower. A single
ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral Museum.
Audioguides for the Cathedral and Cathedral Museum
can be rented from the ticket oﬃce for 7/5zł in Polish,
English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech or
French.QB-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15,
www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:30,
Sun 12:30 - 16:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral
Museum, Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost
12/7zł. Note that the Cathedral Museum is closed
Sun, but your ticket is valid to visit another day.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
SIGISMUND BELL
Follow the crowds up the many gruelling ﬂights of
Sigismund’s Belfry to reach the infamous Sigismund Bell - a
resounding symbol of Polish nationalism ala Philadelphia’s
Liberty Bell. The largest by far of ﬁve bells hanging in the
same tower, Sigismund’s Bell weighs in at an astounding 13
tonnes (9630 kgs), measures 241cm in height, 242cm across
at the lip and varies from 7 to 21cm thick. The bronze beauty
was cast in 1520 on the orders of King Sigismund I and is
adorned in reliefs of St. Stanislav and St. Sigismund as well
as the coat of arms of Poland and Lithuania. Rung to this
day on religious and national holidays, as well as signiﬁcant
moments in history (most recently the funeral of former
President Lech Kaczyński and his wife) the bell’s peal can be
heard 50km away and is quite an enterprise to ring, requiring
the strength of twelve strong men; a dangerous job, the
bell-tollers are actually lifted from the ground by the force
of the bell, resulting in at least one famous accident when
a bell-toller was ﬂung from the tower to his death during
the interwar period. The entrance to Sigismund Belltower is
within the Cathedral and tickets (good for the Royal Crypts
as well) are purchased at the ticket oﬃce across from the
Cathedral’s main entrance.QB-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429
33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun
12:30 - 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
DRAGON’S DEN
Formed about 25 million years ago, the spectacular limestone
formation of Wawel Hill is not the solid piece of rock it appears
to be, but rather ﬁlled with eerie caves and crawl spaces. As
legend would have it, the craggy chambers beneath Wawel
were once home to Smok Wawelski, or the Wawel Dragon,
a particularly nasty creature who liked nothing more than
to gorge himself on sheep and local maidens. Story goes
that as the village ran out of virgins, the King promised the
hand of his only daughter to the hero who could vanquish
the vile beast. Wave upon wave of brave knights fell beneath
the dragon’s ﬁery breath before a poor cobbler named Krak
tricked Smok into eating a sheep stuﬀed full of sulphur, which
instantly ignited inside his gullet. With an unquenchable thirst
the dragon went and drank half the river before his distended
belly exploded and the town was freed of his wrath. Krak
married the princess, of course, became king, built his castle
on the dragon’s lair and the people built a city around it
named ‘Kraków’ after their saviour king.
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Smok’s bones were hung
triumphantly
outside
the
entrance of the Cathedral,
where they remain today. His
cave became a famous tavern
and brothel during medieval
times and today functions as a
tourist trap luring families into its
dripping, less than awe-inspiring
conﬁnes (kids love it!). Save this
for last since the route through
the caves leads you down a
Photo by Anna Stankiewicz
descending staircase inside the
castle courtyard to be later deposited outside the complex
on the riverbank below, right in front of Smok’s sculpted
bronze likeness unveiled in 1972 to a design by the local
artist Bronisław Chromy. It was once possible to send Smok
an SMS which would send him into temporary raptures
of ﬁre-breathing bliss, however he now does it without
checking his phone ﬁrst, so just be patient and don’t look
down his throat.QB-5, Western, low end of Wawel Hill,
www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. From May
open 10:00 - 18:00 (except May 1-3 open 10:00 - 19:00).
Admission 3zł. Tickets are purchased from a machine
outside the entrance (coins only).
LADY WITH AN ERMINE
Kraków’s prized art piece is
this Leonardo Da Vinci canvas
- one of only three Da Vinci
oil paintings in the world,
and a sentimental favourite of
Poles, reproduced and hung
in many a home. Leonardo’s
Lady has a chequered history;
when she isn’t entertaining
she always seems to be on the
run or in hiding somewhere. For centuries she was oﬀ
the map completely, before having a rendezvous with
Prince Adam Czartoryski during his Italian holiday in
1800. Gentleman that he was, he brought her home
to his native Poland, where she was part of the family
until escaping to Paris in 1830 during the Warsaw
Insurrection. The Lady later returned to Poland in 1876
moving into what would become her oﬃcial address in
Kraków’s Czartoryski Museum, only to be captured by
the Nazis and moved to Berlin. In 1946 the Americans
rescued her and returned her to Kraków where she is
today one of the city’s most beloved treasures.
Leonardo’s Lady will be on display at Wawel until its
proper home in the Czartoryski Museum is reopened
after renovation. Exhibited on its own alongside in depth
information about its complicated history and authenticity,
the priceless painting requires a separate admission ticket
and absolutely shouldn’t be missed.QOpen 09:30 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
1 hour before closing. Admission 10/8zł.
April - May 2015
85
Kazimierz
Kazimierz
WHAT TO SEE
Plac Nowy - the heart of th
the form
form
ormer
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wish ddiistr
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ct (page
(page 90
(p
90)).
USEFUL CONTACTS
JEWISH COMMUNITY
The Jewish Community of Kraków is over 700 years old
and currently has around 130 members tasked with
maintaining Kraków’s Jewish culture, religious sites, and
organising community events and gatherings. Shabbat
services take place every Friday in Kupa Synagogue (ul.
Warszauera 8, D/E-6).QD-7, ul. Skawińska 2, tel. (+48)
12 430 54 11, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. Open
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat.
JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE
The headquarters of Kraków’s strengthening Jewish
community. JCC organises numerous events (check
website for calendar) and exhibits, arranges tours, and is
home to a large library of Jewish related materials. Walkins welcome, but if you want to participate in a Shabbat
dinner you need to contact them a few days in advance.
QD-6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 70, www.
jcckrakow.org. Open 10:00 - 20:30, Fri 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. From May open 10:00 20:30, Fri 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat.
JUDAICA FOUNDATION
This civic and cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits
reﬂecting Jewish life past and present, and includes a
cafe with a great little summer roof terrace.QD-6, ul.
Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
86 Kraków In Your Pocket
Kazimierz - the district south of the Old Town between the
Wisła River and ul. Dietla (where a tributary of the Wisła
once ﬂowed) - was the centre of Jewish life in Kraków for
over 500 years, before it was systematically destroyed
during World War II. Neglected during the communist
era, Kazimierz became one of Kraków’s dodgiest districts
before its rediscovery in the 1990s, thanks to the fall of the
regime and worldwide exposure through the lens of Steven
Spielberg. Kazimierz has since been on the rebound and is
today arguably Kraków’s most exciting district - a bustling,
bohemian neighbourhood packed with historical sites,
atmospheric cafes and art galleries. Traces of Kazimierz’s
Jewish history have not only survived, but literally abound in
the form of numerous synagogues and Jewish cemeteries.
In fact, no other place in Europe conveys a sense of pre-war
Jewish culture better than Kazimierz. As a result, the district
has become a major tourist draw and could almost be
considered a pilgrimage site for Jews, which has led to the
return of contemporary Jewish culture to the area in recent
decades. Each summer since 1988 the massively popular
Jewish Culture Festival ﬁlls Kazimierz’s streets and cafes with
music, while educating Kraków’s residents and guests about
the city’s pre-war Jewish history and celebrating modern
Jewish culture. The fact that it’s one of the year’s biggest
parties proves that there’s more to Kazimierz than sepia
photographs and old synagogues. Here you’ll ﬁnd the heart
of Krakow’s artistic, bohemian character behind the wooden
shutters of dozens of antique shops and art galleries, and
in the obscure courtyard cafes and shadowy bars centered
around the former Jewish square known today as Plac
Nowy. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities, Kazimierz
is an essential point of interest to any visitor.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Intimate and perfectly walkable, to get a feel for the area
start your tour of Kazimierz at the top of ulica Szeroka,
coming from ulica Miodowa (E-6). More a square than
an actual street, Szeroka conveys the sense of a medieval
marketplace; indeed it was here that Kazimierz’s ﬁrst Jewish
merchants settled, and the square is bookended by two of
the city’s most important synagogues - the Old Synagogue
and the Remuh Synagogue, whose historic cemetery
extends to ul. Miodowa and ul. Jakuba. Ul. Szeroka 6 (now
the Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant) formerly housed
the Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse that gained notoriety
in 1567 when the wooden ﬂoor collapsed and ten women
drowned. Nearby beneath a ring of maples at the street’s
northern end is a memorial and “Place of meditation upon
the martyrdom of 65,000 Polish citizens of Jewish nationality
from Cracow.” Today ul. Szeroka’s picturesque cobbled lanes
are primarily lined with businesses and restaurants tastefully
aimed at tourists like Rubinstein (ul. Szeroka 14) - so named
because the ‘Queen of Cosmetics’ was born next door at
number 14, and Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (‘Once Upon a
Time in Kazimierz,’ ul. Szeroka 1), with its row of faux Jewish
shop fronts; next door you’ll ﬁnd Jarden (ul. Szeroka 2), the
area’s ﬁrst Jewish bookstore.
Taking a right onto ulica Józefa just past the Old
Synagogue, you’ll ﬁnd the High Synagogue at number
38, so called because the prayer room was located on
the ﬁrst ﬂoor. Today it houses the Austeria bookshop (see
Shopping) and a small exhibition space with rotating
historical exhibits about the history of Poland’s Jewish
population. Along this block of ul. Józefa you can easily spot
indentations left by mezuzahs, and a Hebrew inscription on
the building next door to the High Synagogue. Make a right
onto ul. Kupa (literally ‘Poop Street’ in English, at least that’s
the PG version) to visit the Isaac Synagogue (ul. Kupa 18,
E-6), whose restored interiors now house a permanent
exhibition titled ‘In Memory of Polish Jews’ and a small shop
selling kosher food. In 1939 a member of the synagogue
committee was executed inside these halls after refusing
to set ﬁre to it.At the end of ul. Kupa at ul. Warszauera 8 (D6) is the 17th century Kupa Synagogue, whose northern
wall was ﬂush with the medieval Kazimierz defensive walls,
which can still be seen from the ul. Miodowa side. It’s there
at Miodowa 27 that you’ll ﬁnd the entrance, and today the
restored synagogue is regularly used for religious services
by the Jewish Community.
A short walk down ul. Warszauera leads you to Plac
Nowy (D-6), formerly known as ‘Plac Żydowski’ (Jewish
Square) and still today the district’s bustling epicentre, lined
with bars, cafes and street food stalls. To continue your tour
head west out of the square down ul. Meiselsa (D-6) to
ﬁnd what many regard as Kraków’s most picturesque
passageway on your left, which should be immediately
recognisable to many as the backdrop of dramatic scenes
from Spielberg’s Schindler’s List. Along the way you’ll pass
the Judaica Foundation at ul. Meiselsa 17 and arguably
Kraków’s best beer garden (Mleczarnia) if you’re here
during the warm season.
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Temple Synagogue
While on your Jewish culture crawl of Kazimierz do also put
aside time to visit the Temple Synagogue (ul. Miodowa
24, D-6), Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwór 18, E-6) and
New Jewish Cemetery (ul. Miodowa 55, E-6) - all of which
are nearby and essential points of interest. Kazimierz is not
exclusively Jewish, however, with several noteworthy Catholic
churches moored in the district. The most noteworthy is
Skałka (ul. Skałeczna, C-7), where Stanisław, the Bishop of
Szczepanów, was murdered and then quartered at the whim
of King Bolesław the Bold; a blood-splattered stone can
allegedly be seen beside the altar. Stanisław went on in death
to become the patron saint of Poland, and Skałka is also the
ﬁnal resting place of local heroes Czesław Miłosz and Stanisław
Wyspiański. Kazimierz is also home to some of Kraków’s most
popular museums; both the City Engineering Museum (ul.
Św. Wawrzyńca 15, E-7) and Ethnographic Museum (Plac
Wolnica 1, D-7) are good choices for taking the kids and
keeping them entertained.
SKAŁKA
This gorgeous riverside
sanctuary is one of the
most important religious
sites in Kraków, with a fair
share of history. In 1079,
King Bolesław the Bold
accused the bishop of
Kraków, Stanisław Szczepański, of treason. According
to legend, the bishop was beheaded with the sword
seen next to the altar and then his body was chopped
into pieces on a tree stump. After the murder, the
royal family fell under a curse. To appease the spirit of
the wronged bishop, the family built this church and
made regular pilgrimages here to atone for the murder.
Szczepański was canonised in 1253. The Skałka crypt is
packed tight with important Poles including composer
Karol Szymanowski, writer Czesław Miłosz and painters
Stanisław Wyspiański and Jacek Malczewski.QC-7,
West end of ul. Skałeczna, tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44,
www.skalka.paulini.pl. Open 07:00 - 17:00. No
visiting during mass please.
April - May 2015
87
Kazimierz
MUSEUMS
PLAC WOLNICA
Ethnographic Museum
Perhaps Kraków’s most forgotten square, it’s hard
to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once equal in size
and stature to Kraków’s Rynek Główny. When laid out
as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek Kazimierski)
upon the town’s establishment in 1335, this space
measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter on each
side than Rynek Główny) making it the second largest
market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was here
that all the administrative and judicial authorities of
Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of
market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco
to salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace
it once was, today’s Plac Wolnica (named so since
the end of the 18th century when it was granted the
privilege of free trade) covers only a small fragment of
the square’s original size. However, the Town Hall has
managed to survive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierz’s
incorporation into Kraków in 1802, the Town Hall was
taken over by local Jewish authorities who renovated
it into its present neo-Renaissance style in the late 19th
century. Since WWII it has housed the recommended
Ethnographic Museum. Ironically, it has been the
once more predominantly Jewish neighbourhoods
around Plac Nowy that have keyed Kazimierz’s revival
over the last decade as Plac Wolnica has become
more synonymous with parking, pigeons and drunken
derelicts. That is all beginning to change however, with
more cafés and restaurants opening around its edges
and a new pedestrian bridge connecting Kazimierz
with Podgórze over the river to the south.QD-7.
Inside the Ethnographic Museum
88 Kraków In Your Pocket
Photo by Marcin Wąsik
CITY ENGINEERING MUSEUM
This charming museum inside an old tram depot actually
features ﬁve separate exhibitions. The ﬁrst two deal
with the history of public transport in Kraków and the
development of the Polish automotive industry through
a hangar full of old tram cars and trolleys and a large
collection of unique wheeled vehicles, the third explores
the history of printing in Kraków from the 15th to 20th
centuries, while the other two are fun, interactive exhibits
aimed at children and families. ‘Around the Circle’ teaches
kids fundamental scientiﬁc principles via 30 hands-on
play stations, and the small, seasonal ‘Garden Of New
Words’ is more like an outdoor playground for 3-5 yearolds. More fun than it sounds and recommended for
families, the science exhibits will hold kids’ interest long
enough for Dad to look at cars, while Mom dreams of
escaping on that motorbike.QE-7, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca
15, tel. (+48) 12 421 12 42, www.mimk.com.pl. Open
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł, family
ticket 29zł. YUN
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
Founded in 1911 by the teacher and folklore enthusiast
Seweryn Udziela (1857-1937) and located inside
Kazimierz’s former Town Hall, this cultural highlight
often gets overlooked by tourists, but oﬀers wonderful
and charming insight into Polish folk culture and rural
traditions. The collection includes beautiful recreations
of 19th-century peasant houses, folk costumes, some
extraordinary examples of local so-called ‘Nativity Cribs,’
and a breathtaking collection of folk art on the top ﬂoor.
With many of the exhibits explained in English, those that
visit here will be happily rewarded. A separate gallery for
changing exhibits can be found nearby at ul. Krakowska
46.QD-7, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 55 63, www.
etnomuzeum.eu. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 13/7zł, Sun
free for permanent exhibitions. YUN
GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM
The brainchild of late award-winning photo-journalist
Chris Schwarz, the permanent exhibit is comprised of
hundreds of photographs aimed at keeping the memory
of Jewish life in southern Poland and western Ukraine alive
in the aftermath of the Holocaust. The images of forgotten
cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death camps prove
haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to be an essential
part of any Kazimierz tour. The converted warehouse also
houses small temporary exhibits, a café, information point
and a large bookstore selling a large range of titles of
Jewish interest.QE-6, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68
42, www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 15/10zł, family ticket 30zł. Children under
7 free. Guided tours for groups of over 10: 13.50/8zł
per person; individual guided tours: 60zł/30-45mins,
100zł/60mins. Tours available in English, French and
Italian. YU
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Kazimierz
PLAC NOWY
While Kraków’s main square, Rynek Główny, makes
all the postcards and photographs, it’s Kazimierz’s
Plac Nowy that has emerged as the spiritual centre
of Kraków subculture. Plac Nowy could actually be
described as something of an eyesore – a collection
of unkempt buildings surrounding a concrete square
ﬁlled with chipped market stalls and rat-like pigeons
ﬂapping about. If you want something completely
diﬀerent from the Old Town, however, here it is.
Incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th
century, Plac Nowy (New Square) didn’t really begin
assuming its shape until the early 19th century, with its
central landmark, the Okrąglak (rotunda), added as late as
1900. For generations this square was referred to as Plac
Żydowski (Jewish Square); not only was it the primary
marketplace of the Jewish quarter, but the rotunda served
as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up until Nazi
occupation. Today butcher shops still occupy the interior,
but the real activity is outside where hungry locals of every
ilk line-up in front of hole-in-the-wall food hatches to
enjoy the best ‘zapiekanki’ in Poland. Essentially a French
bread pizza with the toppings of your choice, visiting
Kraków without eating a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be
like visiting Dublin without having a Guinness.
Surrounding the rotunda are 310 trading stalls, and you’ll
ﬁnd something happening here daily from 5:30 in the
morning until early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets
and random rubbish are constant guarantees but weekly
highlights include junk/antique sale Saturdays, Sunday’s
clothing market, and Tuesday and Friday morning’s
bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair. A photo essay
waiting to happen, arrive early to the latter to learn the
answer to the riddle, ‘How many rabbits ﬁt in a suitcase?’
As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new
guise: Kraków’s premier pub crawl. Full of shambolic
charm, veteran boozers Singer and Alchemia put
Plac Nowy on the nightlife map, and remain two of the
square’s best bets for candlelit, pre-war mystique, while
down the road (ul. Meiselsa) dark and arty Mleczarnia
boasts the city’s best beer garden. In recent years the
bars on oﬀer have begun to diversify, but the fact
remains that this bohemian outpost is Kraków’s most
interesting and exciting nightlife destination.QD-6.
90 Kraków In Your Pocket
Kazimierz
SYNAGOGUES
& JEWISH CEMETERIES
HIGH SYNAGOGUE
The third oldest synagogue in Kraków, the High Synagogue
was completed in 1563, and is unique for having its
prayer room upstairs; it’s widely theorised that this was
a safety precaution to protect the congregation from
unfriendly neighbours. The design didn’t save it from being
the subject of arson during WWII sadly, and today no
furnishings remain. The upstairs prayer room has retained
some original details, however, including the Holy Ark, two
golden griﬃns have survived above the Aron Kodesh, and
some of the murals have been restored. The size of the
high-ceilinged room and quality of those details that do
remain indicate that this was a magniﬁcent space before its
destruction. Today admission is paid to go upstairs to the
prayer room, where visitors will also see a small temporary
museum exhibit. On the ground ﬂoor is a large bookstore
with books of Jewish interest in a variety of languages.
QE-6, ul. Jozefa 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89. Open 10:00
- 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Admission to upstairs
exhibit 9/6zł, children under 10 free.
ISAAC SYNAGOGUE
The Isaac Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque
style, was opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from
a wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. The design is decoratively
endowed with arabesques and arches, yet retains a sober
linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not
least the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer
Gurary runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand
to provide information to all comers. A shop inside sells
kosher food, sweets, Jewish calendars and other items,
and around the back you’ll ﬁnd Szalom Falafel - Kraków’s
only kosher fast food restaurant (ul. Jakuba 21). Klezmer
concerts take place here each Tue, Thu and Sun at 18:00
(60/40zł).QE-6, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22,
www.chabadkrakow.pl. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Fri 08:30 14:30; closed Sat. Admission 7/4zł.
KUPA SYNAGOGUE
This rather unfortunately-named synagogue was founded in
1643, using funds from the local kahal/qahal (mi-kupat hakahal) - the autonomous Jewish government - which we’re
told explains where the name ‘Kupa’ comes from, but doesn’t
change the fact that it translates to ‘poop’ in Polish (oh well).
Designed in the Baroque style with a square prayer room,
the synagogue shared a wall with the original Kazimierz
city defensive walls, which can be seen from ul. Miodowa.
Undergoing several renovations and expansions over the
centuries, the synagogue was connected to the adjacent
building in the 19th century and meticulously restored in
2000. The richly decorated interior features paintings of
Biblical scenes and holy places done by an unknown artist in
the 1920s, and today it is regularly used for religious services.
QD/E-6, ul. Warszauera 8 (entrance from Miodowa), tel.
(+48) 12 430 54 11, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. Open
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri, Sat. Admission 5/2zł.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
NEW JEWISH CEMETERY
This enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and
was the burial ground for many of Kraków’s distinguished
Jews in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Its story takes
on a darker aspect with the decimation of the Jewish
population between 1939 and 1945. Many of the
tombstones are actually no more than memorials to entire
families that were killed in the Holocaust, which now lie in
overgrown clusters. The rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not
fully penetrated the walls of the New Cemetery, but there
are many newly-lit candles burning over the headstones.
QE-5, ul. Miodowa 55. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri,
Sat.
OLD SYNAGOGUE
Built on the cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, the Old
Synagogue serves as the oldest surviving example of Jewish
religious architecture in Poland and is home to a ﬁne series
of exhibits that showcase the history and traditions of Polish
Judaism. It is no longer a working synagogue. The English
explanations assume no great depth of knowledge on
the reader’s part and are therefore a perfect primer on the
subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands the bimah
enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade. There are
also changing temporary exhibitions, and the bookshop
sells a ﬁne selection of works related to Jewish Kraków in
a number of languages.QE-6, ul. Szeroka 24, tel. (+48)
12 422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Mon
10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 9/7zł, family ticket 18zł, Mon free. Y
The Old Synagogue
New Jewish Cemetery
TEMPLE SYNAGOGUE
Kazimierz’s newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with
several later expansions, the most recent of which was in
1924. Under Nazi occupation the building was used as a
warehouse and stables, yet survived the war and regular
services were even held here until 1968, before stopping
completely a decade later. Since restoration, the gilded
woodwork within now plays host to many concerts and
occasional religious ceremonies, particularly during the
annual Jewish Festival of Culture.QD-6, ul. Miodowa 24,
tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri,
Sat. Admission 5/2zł.
kilhan / Dollar Photo Club
REMUH SYNAGOGUE & CEMETERY
The smallest but most active synagogue in Kazimierz,
dating from 1553. Under normal circumstances, if you enter
quietly, you may even be aﬀorded a glimpse of a service.
Currently however, restoration works mean you’ll need to
make an appointment to see the interior or stroll through
the cemetery which was in use until 1800. This holy burial
ground was spared by the vandalism of the Nazis because
many of the gravestones had been buried to avoid
desecration during the 19th century occupation of Kraków
by Austrian forces. Most famous is the tomb of the 16th
century Rabbi Moses Isserles, better known as the Remuh.
Beside him lies his wife, Golda Auerbach, in the cemetery’s
oldest tomb.QE-6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11.
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri, Sat. Admission 5/2zł.
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April - May 2015
91
Podgórze
Podgórze
MUSEUMS
CRICOTEKA
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When Spielberg came to Kraków to produce his awardwinning ﬁlm Schindler’s List, the result was a fast and farreaching revitalisation of Kazimierz, Kraków’s former Jewish
district. Ironically, however, it didn’t reach across the river to
Podgórze, despite the fact most of the ﬁlm’s historic events took
place there, as did much of the ﬁlming. As Kazimierz became
super-saturated with tourists and bars, predictions were that
Podgórze would emerge as Kraków’s next hip bohemian
district; however aside from a small stable of rogue cafes,
things were slow to develop and for a long time getting oﬀ
the beaten path in Kraków was as easy as crossing the river to
Podgórze. Since the opening of Schindler’s Factory as a major
attraction and the construction of the Bernatek footbridge
creating a direct artery of tourist traﬃc into the district, that
has begun to change, but Podgórze remains Kraków’s most
mysterious and underappreciated neighbourhood.
A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual
attractions, the ﬁrst signs of settlement in Podgórze date
from over ten thousand years ago, though the Swedish
invasion in the 17th century saw much of Podgórze
levelled. Awarded the rights of a free city in 1784 by the
Austrian Emperor Joseph II, the town was eventually
incorporated as Kraków’s fourth district in 1915, and
the following decades saw its aggressive development;
quarries and brickworks were constructed, and a string
of military forts added, of which Fort Benedict (K-5) is
the only still standing. An indication of Podgórze’s age is
Krakus Mound (K-5), excavations of which have dated it
to the Iron Age. However, the trespasses of more recent
history are what people most associate with the district.
On March 21, 1941, the entire Jewish population residing
in Kazimierz were marched across the Powstanców Śląskich
92 Kraków In Your Pocket
bridge and crammed into what was to become known as the
Podgórze Ghetto. Traces of the Ghetto still exist, including
a prominent stretch of the wall on ul. Lwowska (K-4).
Liquidated on March 14, 1943, the majority of the Ghetto’s
residents were murdered there, while others met death in
the nearby Liban quarry and Płaszów concentration
camp, or in the gas chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau. The
opening of the Schindler’s Factory Museum (K-4, Lipowa
4) has, in addition to helping the city bury the ghosts of the
Holocaust, ﬁnally endorsed Podgórze’s status as a bona ﬁde
tourist destination. With plenty to see and do, you could
easily spend an entire day exploring Podgórze and a walk
up into the hills is not only a great way to get ‘oﬀ the beaten
path’ - it’s also Kraków’s most evocative area.
CHURCHES
ST. JOSEPH’S
Presiding over the heart of historic Podgórze on the south
side of the district’s main square, this unmissable neogothic juggernaut was built between 1905-09 on the
design of Jan Sas-Zubrzycki. Dominated by an 80 metre
clock tower, elaborate masonry dressing, gargoyles and
sculptures of saints, St. Joseph’s slender, yet imposing
brick facade rates among the most beautiful in Kraków
and is gorgeously illuminated at night. The interior is no
less beautiful and visitors should also note the abandoned
1832 belfry that stands on a rocky outcropping behind the
church - all that remains of the original temple, dismantled
due to design ﬂaws.QJ-5, ul. Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48)
12 656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja.pl. Open during mass
only and by prior arrangement.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Tadeusz Kantor (19151990) was an avantgarde artist, theatre
director, set designer and
a major ﬁgure in 20th
theatre reform, known
for his revolutionary
theatre
productions.
In 1980 he created
‘Cricoteka’ as a ‘living
archive’ to document the
achievements of himself
and his theatre company Cricot 2. In September 2014,
Cricoteka opened its new headquarters here, with the aim
of better presenting his work and its impact on modern art
and theatre. Located on the site of the former Podgórze
power station, the building itself is an apparent homage
to his experimental approach, literally hovering above the
existing buildings with a bizarre rust and black mirror facade.
Combined with the original buildings, the multifunctional
site hosts an exhibition space, archive, theatre hall, cafe and
bookshop; as a result, a large amount of its programme
involves happenings, performances, workshops and other
live events (check their website for those). As a museum,
it’s diﬃcult to recommend to those who aren’t already
familiar with Kantor, or fans of alienating, experimental
theatre. Temporary exhibits show art apparently inspired
by Kantor’s ideas, while the permanent exhibit shows the
evolution of Kantor’s increasingly eccentric career via stage
props he created (including lots of creepy mannequins)
and video footage. Whether it resonates is purely a matter
of personal taste, as public opinion is notably divided.QJ-4,
ul. Nadwiślańska 2, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 70, www.news.
cricoteka.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission
10/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Y
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
Opened in 2011, Krakow’s Museum of Contemporary Art
(MOCAK) does not disappoint, capably holding its own
with comparable international art institutions. Tucked
behind Schindler’s Factory, the building alone will
impress with it’s avant-garde styling and ultra-modern
layout. The museum boasts a large and ﬁne permanent
collection of modern art highlighting both Polish and
international artists, plus the Mieczysław Porębski
Library and its collection of works on art theory and
history. Several provocative temporary exhibitions are
ever-changing: check their website for details. Despite
the relatively late closing hour (19:00), make sure to
leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy all the museum
has to oﬀer.QK-4, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40
00, www.mocak.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł,
Tue free. Guided tours (80zł) in English and German
available, but must be arranged by phone in advance.
YU
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PHARMACY UNDER THE EAGLE
When the Nazis created the Jewish ghetto in Podgórze
in 1941, this pharmacy on Pl. Bohaterów Getta and its
Polish owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at
the very heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and
his staff were the only Poles allowed to live and work
in the ghetto and over the two years of the ghetto’s
existence, Apteka Pod Orłem became an important
centre of social life as well as aid in acquiring food
and medicine, falsified documents and avoiding
deportations. Pankiewicz (recognised today as one
of the ‘Righteous Among the Nations’) and his staff
risked their lives in many clandestine operations while
bearing witness to tragedy through the windows of the
pharmacy as the ghetto and its 15,000 inhabitants were
ultimately ‘liquidated.’ Today the building is a branch of
the Kraków Historical Museum, recreated to look as it
did during Nazi occupation, which through traditional
and multimedia displays, and extensive testimonials
from both Poles and Jews, heartrendingly describes life
in the Kraków Ghetto. Information is displayed inside the
chests and cupboards of the pharmacy, and visitors are
encouraged to handle dozens of replica artefacts and
reprinted photographs, heightening the reality of the
events described and creating a very intimate visiting
experience. Though comprising only 5 rooms, set aside
at least an hour for visiting this excellent museum.QJ4, Pl. Bohaterów Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656 56 25,
www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Note that
it is closed on the second Tuesday of every month.
Admission 10/8zł, family ticket 20zł, Mon free. Y
SCHINDLER’S FACTORY
After years of preparation, the Oskar Schindler
Enamelled Goods Factory (to give it its full name) reopened to the public as a world-class museum in 2010.
The story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is one
which has been well-known since Steven Spielberg’s
film Schindler’s List (which was shot almost entirely in
Kraków) brought it to audiences across the world in
1993, and while that story is now covered in detail on
the original site where many events took place, the
museum casts the city of Kraków in the main role of
its permanent exhibition titled, ‘Kraków During Nazi
Occupation 1939-1945.’ Individual histories of Kraków’s
wartime inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit
April - May 2015
93
Podgórze
KRAKUS MOUND
The oldest structure in Kraków, Krakus Mound (Kopiec
Krakusa) is one of two prehistoric monumental mounds in
the city and is also its highest point, providing incredible
panoramic views from its worn summit. 16m high, 60m
wide at the base and 8m wide at the top, Krak’s Mound
has received some much-needed attention lately with
gravel now spread over what was formerly a very muddy
trail winding up to a bald peak. The site of pagan rituals
for centuries, the mound retains an ancient, evocative
atmosphere ampliﬁed by the surroundings of the cliﬀs of
Krzemionki, the green rolling ﬁelds of Płaszów, the grim
Liban quarry and the Podgórze cemetery. With incredible
views of the city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one
of Kraków’s least explored and most captivating areas and
should be visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding
detour from the beaten path. It can be approached most
easily from the ‘Powstańców Wielopolskich’ tram stop via
ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod Kopcem (K-5), or
by following ul. Dembowskiego (J-5) to the pedestrian
bridge over al. Powstańców Wielopolskich to the base of
the mound.
The result of great human eﬀort and innovative
engineering, Krakus Mound has long been a source
of legend and mystery. Connected with the legend of
Kraków’s mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound
is said to have been constructed in honour of his death
when noblemen and peasants ﬁlled their sleeves with
sand and dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an
artiﬁcial mountain that would rule over the rest of the
landscape. In the interwar period, extensive archaeological
studies were undertaken to try to date the mound and
verify if Krak was indeed buried beneath it. Though much
about the ingenuity of the mound’s prehistoric engineers
was revealed, no trace of a grave was found; a bronze
belt from the 8th century was unearthed and there is
general agreement today that the mound was created
by a Slavonic colony sometime between the latter half of
the 7th century and the early 10th century, though other
hypotheses credit it to the Celts. Originally four smaller
mounds surrounded the base of Krak’s mound, however
these were levelled in the mid-19th century during the
construction of the city’s ﬁrst fortress which surrounded
the area with a wall embankment and a moat (later levelled
in 1954). The legend of Krak’s mound inspired the modern
creation of burial mounds for Kościuszko and Piłsudski and
today it remains one of Poland’s greatest archaeological
mysteries.QK-5, above ul. Maryewskiego.
94 Kraków In Your Pocket
Jewish Ghetto
which covers the war of 1939, everyday life under
occupation, the fate of the Jews, the city’s underground
resistance and more, using vast archival documents,
photos, radio and film recordings, period artefacts
and dynamic multimedia installations. Other exhibits
change regularly, while a separate section of the original
factory is reserved for film screenings, lectures and other
cultural events. A must-visit, Schindler’s factory is one
of the most fascinating museums in the entire country
and we recommend you reserve at least two hours if you
want to see everything. To get there take a tram to Pl.
Bohaterów Getta (J-4) and it’s a 5-10 minute walk down
ul. Kącik, under the train overpass, onto ul. Lipowa and
you’re there.QK-4, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17,
www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 16:00;
first Mon of the month 10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance
1.5 hours before closing. Admission 21/16zł, family
ticket 50zł. Groups of over 15 people must book in
advance and visit with a guide (20zł per person). Mon
free for permanent exhibitions. Y
PLACES OF INTEREST
PLAC BOHATERÓW GETTA
Kraków has always been regarded as the cultural centre
of Poland, and before World War II it was likewise an
important cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews one quarter of the city’s total population - who enjoyed the
city’s relatively tolerant climate. Persecution of the Jewish
community began almost immediately following German
occupation in early September 1939, however. Despite an
increasing series of regulations restricting the civil rights
and personal freedom of Jews, more and more were
arriving in Kraków from the rest of PL in the hope of ﬁnding
safety amidst the city’s dense community. In October 1939,
the Nazis registered 68,482 Jews in Kraków.
FORT BENEDICT
Conditions continued to worsen, however, and in April 1940,
Hans Frank - Nazi commander of the ‘General Government’
(the part of German-occupied PL that was not directly
incorporated into Germany) - ordered the resettlement of
Kraków’s Jews, in keeping with his desire for the capital of
the General Government to be a “Jew-free city.” As a result of
resettlement in late 1940, Kraków’s Jewish population was
reduced to the 16,000 deemed necessary to maintain the
economy at the time, with the 52,000-odd others forcibly
deported, largely to labour camps in the east.
The only surviving fortress of three that were built in
Podgórze in the mid-19th century to protect the Vistula
River and the road to Lwów, Fort Benedict is one of only a
few citadels of the ‘Maximillion Tower’ type left anywhere.
An impressive two-storey brick artillery tower in the shape
of a sixteen-sided polygon with a round interior yard, the
fort has a total surface area of 1500 square metres. Atop
the Krzemionki cliﬀs on Lasota Hill, it takes its name from
nearby St. Benedict’s church. The fortress quickly lost
its usefulness in the 1890s and has since been used as
Austrian military barracks and was even converted into
apartments in the 1950s, though today it lies in general
dereliction, ﬁlled with abandoned furniture and building
materials. After numerous projects involving the fort
failed to develop, care of Fort Benedict has recently been
transferred back to the city of Kraków, with plans for its
renovation awaiting approval. At the moment, however,
it remains impenetrable to tourists, adding to the scenery
and mystique of one of Kraków’s most surprising and
strange corners.QK-5, Lasota Hill.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
ESTABLISHMENT
On March 3rd, 1941 Otto Wächter, Governor of the Kraków
district, decreed the establishment of a new ‘Jewish Housing
District’ on the right bank of the Wisła River in the district of
Podgórze. What would become known as the ‘Kraków’ or
‘Podgórze Ghetto’ initially comprised an approximately 20
hectare (50 acre) space of some 320 mostly one- and twostory buildings in Podgórze’s historic centre bound by the
river and the Krzemionki hills to the north and south, and
between the Kraków-Płaszów rail line and Podgórze’s market
square to the east and west. In the 17 days between the
ghetto’s establishment and the March 20, 1941 resettlement
deadline, approximately 3,000 original residents of the
district were relocated across the river to be replaced by
some 16,000 Jews, whose property and possessions were
conﬁscated with the exception of what they could carry
into the ghetto. Thousands of unregistered Jews also illegally
entered the ghetto seeking protection, bringing the total
population of the Kraków Ghetto to about 18,000.
Overcrowding was an obvious problem with one
apartment allocated for every four families and an average
of two square metres of living space per person. Windows
facing ‘Aryan’ Podgórze were bricked or boarded up to
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First plotted in 1836, this public square just across the
river from the Powstańców Śląskich bridge has had a
turbulent history, with turns as a marketplace, horse
stable, execution site, taxi rank and bus terminal over
the years. During WWII the square was at once the
source of ghetto residents’ greatest relief and also the
scene of their greatest horrors and humiliations. As the
ghetto’s largest open space, Plac Zgody (as it was then
called) was a place for people to socialise, relax and
take reprieve from the oppressive overcrowding of the
tenements. It was also the site of families being torn
apart, mass deportations to death camps, beatings and
executions. Following every deportation and the ﬁnal
liquidation of the ghetto, Plac Zgody was strewn with
furniture, clothes, luggage and other belongings that
the victims were forced to abandon - an image which
would later inspire the square’s 2005 redesign following
decades of neglect. Laid out with 70 large well-spaced
metal chairs meant to symbolise departure, as well as
subsequent absence, the entire square has essentially
been turned into an evocative memorial to the victims
of the Kraków Ghetto. Despite controversy surrounding
the design, the square is probably the most iconic place
in Podgórze today.
During the war, Plac Bohaterów Getta 6 was the regular
meeting point of the Jewish Combat Organisation
(ŻOB), as noted by a plaque on the front of the building.
Kraków’s Jewish underground resistance orchestrated
acts of sabotage outside the ghetto, with their greatest
success coming in December 1942 when a grenade
detonated inside the Cyganeria Café - a popular
meeting place for Nazi oﬃcers on ul. Szpitalnia - killing
and wounding several Germans. Plac Bohaterów Getta
18 - on the south side of the square at the corner of
ul. Targowa - was the site of Pankiewicz’s famous
Apteka Pod Orłem, now a branch of the Kraków
History Museum with exhibits depicting life in the
ghetto. Every year on the Sunday following the March
14th liquidation of the ghetto, a remembrance parade
honouring the victims sets oﬀ from Plac Bohaterów
Getta to the Holocaust monument on the site of the
former Płaszów camp.QJ-4.
Zygmunt Put/Wikipedia/CC-BY-SA 3.0
April - May 2015
95
Jewish Ghetto
LIBAN QUARRY
One of the creepiest, most forgotten places in Kraków,
the Liban Quarry should ﬁrst and foremost be a place of
remembrance for the victims of the Nazi labour camp
that operated here during WWII. That said, the site which largely lies in overgrown abandon today - oﬀers
adventurous visitors some intriguing opportunities for
exploration, photography, and personal reﬂection. Left to
slowly evolve into a nature sanctuary for local waterfowl,
pheasants, birds of prey and various other creatures,
the quarry’s towering limestone cliﬀs, ponds and dense
vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting reﬁnery
equipment, fence posts, gravestones and tangles of barbed
wire that can still be found amongst the brush here.
The Jewish limestone company ‘Liban and Ehrenpreis’
established a quarry here in 1873, and by the end of
the 19th century a complex of buildings had been
established inside and a railway line had been laid. During
Nazi occupation, however, Liban was seized and set-up
as a cruel penal camp where 800 Poles were forced to
perform grueling slave labour from 1942 to 1944. A small,
discreet and easily overlooked memorial for 21 inmates
executed during the liquidation of the camp lies beside
the cliﬀside at the Za Torem end of the site.
In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all
the scenes from Schindler’s List that take place in the
Płaszów concentration camp. During ﬁlming 34
barracks and watchtowers were set-up around the
quarry, and though most of the set was subsequently
removed, some traces remain confusingly mixed with
the genuine historical leftovers from the war, making
it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel as
you walk amongst the many gallows-like fence posts
strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly,
the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved
with Jewish headstones; we can put you at ease by
assuring you it is not genuine. An incredibly evocative,
yet peaceful and beautiful site, enter the quarry at
your own risk by following a trail from Krakus Mound
toward Podgórze Cemetery along the rim of and into
the quarry, or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though
there is nothing unlawful about being in the quarry,
city employees of the Housing Oﬃce buildings at the
quarry’s entrance have been known to deny entry or
ask people to leave.QJ/K-5, ul. Za Torem.
96 Kraków In Your Pocket
Jewish Ghetto
prevent contact with the outside world and a 3 metre
high wall was erected around the conﬁnes of the ghetto,
crowned with arches conscientiously designed to resemble
Jewish tombstones. Four guarded entrance gates accessed
the ghetto - the main gate from Rynek Podgórski on
ul. Limanowskiego (J-4), another on the east end of ul.
Limanowskiego near its intersection with ul. Rękawka and
ul. Lwowska (K-4), a third close by at the intersection of
ul. Lwowska and ul. Józeﬁńska (K-4), and another at Plac
Zgody (today known as Plac Bohaterów Getta, J-4). A tram
initially ran through the ghetto, and though it made no
stops, food and other valuable commodities frequently
found their way into the ghetto via its windows.
Many Jewish institutions were transferred into the ghetto,
and several non-Jewish businesses continued to operate,
most notably Tadeusz Pankiewicz’s Pharmacy Under the
Eagle on Plac Zgody (J-4). Many Jews also worked outside
the ghetto, particularly in the Zabłocie industrial district,
which included Oskar Schindler’s enamelware factory
at ul. Lipowa 4 (K-4).
DEPORTATIONS
Following an October 15th, 1941 decree requiring all Jews
of the Kraków region - not just the city centre - to move
to the Podgórze Ghetto, a further 6,000 Jews from villages
around Małopolska entered the ghetto, making conditions
unbearable. To alleviate the distress Nazi authorities happily
announced that they would begin deportations, and 1000
people - mostly elderly and unemployed -were loaded into
cattle cars and sent to Kielce, where they were expected to
ﬁnd aid from local Jewish authorities. Not knowing what
else to do, many of them actually returned clandestinely to
their families in the Kraków Ghetto.
Following the Wannsee Conference in January 1942, the
Nazis began to initiate ‘The Final Solution’ - Hitler’s systematic
plan for the annihilation of European Jewry. May 29th 1942
was the ﬁrst of ten days of terror within the Kraków Ghetto
as it was surrounded by Nazi troops and all documents
were inspected. Those who couldn’t produce proper work
permits were assembled on Plac Zgody before being
transferred to Płaszów rail station, loaded into cattle cars in
groups of 120, and sent to Bełżec death camp in eastern PL.
Unsatisﬁed by the initial numbers, the Germans continued
their arbitrary round-ups for days. One June 6th all previous
documents were declared invalid and ghetto occupants
were required to apply for a new ‘Blauschein’ or Blue Pass;
those that were denied likewise met their deaths in Bełżec,
including popular poet and songwriter Mordechai Gebirtig
and renowned painter Abraham Neuman. By the end of the
action, 7,000 Jews had been sent to their deaths, and many
more simply shot in the streets. [The June deportations
were one of the best documented of such actions, however
photos from the events are still commonly misidentiﬁed
as being taken during the ghetto’s liquidation in March
1943.] Two weeks later the area of the ghetto was reduced
almost by half to the north side of ul. Limanowskiego and
demarcated by barbed wire. The increased density of the
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population and increasing brutality of the Germans set
oﬀ a wave of suicides. Though some remained optimistic,
worse was to come. Work was also beginning on the nearby
Płaszów labour camp, which would eventually portend
the end of the Kraków ghetto.
In late August and early September, 12-13,000 Jews
(many originating from Kraków) were also sent to
Bełżec as the ghettos in nearby Słomniki and Wieliczka
were liquidated. Following these brutal events, the
correlation between deportation and death became
fully understood perhaps for the ﬁrst time in Kraków. In
October the Germans announced that the Kraków ghetto
would be consolidated again and selections began
anew, with no regard toward employment status, age or
health. Another 4,500 victims were sent to their deaths
in Bełżec, while some 600 were shot inside the ghetto.
With the liquidation of the ghetto hospital, orphanage
and elderly home, many orphans and invalids were sent
to the newly established Płaszów labour camp, only to
be murdered on arrival. Afterwards the area east of Plac
Zgody ceased to be part of the ghetto, and a month later
the remaining territory was divided into two sections:
Ghetto A was reserved for the healthiest, most ablebodied residents, and Ghetto B for those less desirable
and destined for deportation. Residents of Ghetto A
began commuting daily to work on the construction of
Płaszów labour camp, and after Amon Goeth arrived in
Kraków as its new Camp Commandant the pace of the
camp’s development hastened the ghetto’s demise.
LIQUIDATION
As soon as enough barracks had been built, Goeth ordered
that the inhabitants of Ghetto A permanently relocate to
Płaszów, and on March 13th 1943 local SS Commander
Julian Scherner ordered the ﬁnal liquidation of the
Kraków Ghetto. Carried out in two phases, at least 6,000
Jews (some sources cite up to 8,000) from Ghetto A were
immediately transported to Płaszów; residents of Ghetto
B and all children under 14 were ordered to assemble on
Plac Zgody the next day. Despite likely knowing what lay
in store, many mothers stayed behind when Ghetto A was
liquidated, refusing to abandon their children.
March 14th 1943 was likely the bloodiest day in Podgórze’s
history. The ghetto - which at that point essentially
consisted of only Plac Zgody and the block of buildings
just south of it - was surrounded by German troops who
attempted to herd its residents to the transports leaving
from the square. Chaos reigned and those who resisted
or attempted to escape were shot. Over 1,000 people
were killed in the streets (some estimates are as high as
2,000) and the 3,000 that left via cattle car went almost
directly to the gas chambers in Auschwitz. After this ﬁnal
deportation, the Germans cleaned their mess, looting
the houses, stripping the luggage strewn everywhere of
anything valuable, and taking down all the barbed wire.
The Kraków Ghetto disappeared leaving almost as little
trace as the Jews who lived there.
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TRACES OF THE GHETTO
GHETTO WALL FRAGMENTS
An even longer and arguably more evocative section of
the original ghetto wall can be seen in the playground
behind the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego
60/62. Those looking to continue their creepy tour of
the area should climb the steep trail leading from the
back of the playground straight up to the Old Podgórze
Cemetery, to the right from which is the abandoned
Fort Benedict.QK-5, ul. Limanowskiego 62.
GHETTO WALL FRAGMENTS
Kraków’s most prominent evidence of its ghetto is this
12-metre stretch of the original ghetto wall. In 1983,
a commemorative plaque was raised, which reads in
Hebrew and Polish: “Here they lived, suﬀered and died
at the hands of the German torturers. From here they
began their ﬁnal journey to the death camps.”QK-4, ul.
Lwowska 25-29.
STARMACH GALLERY
Built between 1879-1881, this unique brick building
was one of four former prayer houses within the area
of the ghetto, the others being located at numbers 6
and 7 on the very same street and nearby at ul. Krakusa
7. Religious practise was outlawed by the Germans
during the war (though it continued in secret) and
the synagogue was converted into a warehouse and
then a factory. When the ghetto was established, many
valuable religious artefacts from Kazimierz synagogues
were transferred here for protection, however the
eventual liquidation of the ghetto guaranteed that they
were looted and lost. After the war the building slowly
fell into dereliction until Andrzej and Teresa Starmach
rescued it in 1996, restoring the facade and turning it
into one of the largest and most renowned private art
galleries in PL. The exhibitions are always outstanding
and a visit is highly recommended.QJ-4, ul. Węgierska
5, tel. (+48) 12 656 43 17, www.starmach.eu. Open
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
The outline of the former ghetto can
be seen on our map, page 136.
April - May 2015
97
Salwator
Salwator
GETTING TO SALWATOR
Lying just west of the Old Town, Salwator is about
a twenty-ﬁve minute walk from the main market
square and can be easily accessed by taking trams 1
or 2 to their terminus at the Salwator roundabout (H3). Alternatively, surefooted or cycling sightseers can
follow the recreational path along the Wisła River from
Wawel Castle to the Norbertine Monastery, where it
ends at the Rudawa tributary. Bear in mind that the
path up Saint Bronisława’s Hill to Kościuszko Mound
is a slight grade 1.6 kilometres in length and may be
uncomfortable for anyone awaiting a hip replacement.
It is possible to drive to the foot of the mound, but
making the journey on foot or by bike is certainly the
recommended method for those with ﬁne weather
who are feeling up to the task.
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Being that Salwator has always been Kraków’s most green,
ancient and aﬄuent district, it’s a bit of a wonder why more
people don’t visit. Having done the hard but rewarding work
of researching this seldom written about area, however,
we’re happy to roll out the red carpet. Certainly the area’s
main attraction is the stunning Kościuszko Mound and
surrounding fortiﬁcations, but the scenic ascent to the
mound is almost as pleasant as the earthwork itself and
makes a perfect escape from the sometimes frenetic bustle
of the city centre. Essentially comprising one long, virtually
traﬃc-less, tree-lined avenue ﬂanked by ancient churches,
atmospheric cemeteries and grand villas - which begins at
the city’s largest sacral complex and summits atop the city’s
most magniﬁcent overlook - Salwator should hold plenty of
enchantment for visitors.
WHAT TO SEE
A perfect warm-weather expedition, exploring Salwator
is more of a leisure activity than a sightseeing excursion,
with its appeal lying in strolling shady lanes and taking in
scenic views more than studying historical exhibits (though
there’s the chance for that too). Picturesquely perched on
the western fringe of the city-centre, well-removed from
the tourist track, the small district of Salwator oﬃcially
occupies St. Bronisława’s Hill in the district of Zwierzyniec,
which rises above the Old Town between the Wisła River
and the Rudawa - one of its tributaries. As such, a journey
to Salwator starts at their conﬂuence and the majestic
Norbertine Monastery (G/H-4) - Kraków’s largest sacral
complex. Consecrated way back at the end of the 12th
century, the Norbertine Sisters of this immaculate convent
98 Kraków In Your Pocket
were the ﬁrst female religious congregation in Poland and
once held much sway and inﬂuence over the area. Until
as recently as 1910, when Kraków’s mayor snatched and
incorporated the territory into the city proper, the Sisters
of St. Norbert owned the whole area of Salwator and
surrounding Zwierzyniec. Before that time the Norbertine
complex extended across ul. Kościuszko and, in addition
to the convent’s Church of St. Augustine & John the
Baptist, also included the two churches found at the foot
of St. Bronislawa’s Hill (on the street of the same name). On
the left side of ul. Św. Bronisławy (G-3) stands the small and
unique Chapel of Saint Margaret, which is included on
the Małopolska Wooden Architecture Route, while on the
right is the hoary Church of the Holy Saviour.
Continue up ul. Św. Bronisławy (as it turns into Al.
Waszyngtona) about 500 metres on the left and you’ll
arrive at the Salwator Cemetery - perhaps Kraków’s most
picturesque necropolis. However, as you’re en route, don’t
miss taking a quick look at the villas on ul. Gontyna (G-3)
- a small looping alley oﬀ the main lane. Though the name
‘Salwator’ has more recently been applied to much of the
surrounding district of Zwierzyniec (for marketing reasons),
it originally referred strictly to this small ‘Garden City’ of
30 villas built to much hullaballoo after a 1910 design
competition. One of Kraków’s most exclusive residential
streets, ul. Gondyna has been home to many local
luminaries and celebrities, and its villas are also no stranger
to architecture textbooks. Continue up Św. Bronisławy’s
ancient tree-lined avenue to where it bears right and you’re
at the foot of the Kościuszko Mound and fortiﬁcations
(F-3), one of Kraków’s most unique attractions.
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NORBERTINE MONASTERY
Founded by the once-powerful Premonstratensian Sisters
of Saint Norbert’s in 1148, this fortiﬁed monastery has
been destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout
the centuries, seemingly irresistible to the marauding
Tartar hordes whose proﬁciency at razing architectural
marvels has been well noted by history. The structures
seen today within the monastery’s many courtyards and
high, crenellated walls were rebuilt at the turn of the 17th
century and the interiors date to the 18th century. The
baroque Church of St. Augustine & John the Baptist
(open during mass only) can be entered through the
13th century Romanesque portal beneath the tower or
through the outer courtyard. There have been two sisters
canonised from the Cracovian order of Norbertine Sisters,
Saint Emilia Podoska and Saint Bronisława - renowned
for her righteousness. Some of Kraków’s most important
traditions are also connected with the monastery: here and
along the banks of the Rudawa the Emmaus festival has
been celebrated every year since the 12th century on the
Monday after Easter. It is also from here that the Lajkonik
procession - the foremost symbol of Kraków - sets oﬀ each
year in June, due no doubt to the convent’s magnetism
towards Tartars.QG/H-4, ul. Kościuszki 88, tel. (+48) 12
427 13 18, www.norbertanki.w.krakow.pl.
KOŚCIUSZKO MOUND
History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko
(1746-1817). Having fought with distinction in the
American War of Independence before inspiring a
valiant Insurrection against foreign rule in Poland, this
relentless freedom-ﬁghter was described by Thomas
Jeﬀerson as ‘the purest son of liberty that I have ever
known.’ Upon his passing Polish authorities demanded
his body be sent from Switzerland to be interred in the
Wawel Royal Crypts. Such was the love for Kościuszko that
the people proposed to honour him with a monument
in the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak
and Wanda - and to make it the grandest in Kraków.
With the approval of the Norbertine Sisters who granted
the land, city authorities began developing an artiﬁcial
burial mound to be constructed atop Bronisława Hill in
Zwierzyniec. When construction began there was no lack
of pomp and ceremony. First mass was held, followed
by speeches; documents, heirlooms and artefacts from
Kościuszko’s illustrious life were placed - as well as soil
from his many battleﬁelds, including those in America before friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries dumped
the ﬁrst wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years
people of all ages from all over Poland brought soil from
their villages to add to the mound. Though a committee
was formed for its oversight, the work was all done
voluntarily. Oﬃcially completed in November 1823,
Kościuszko Mound stands 34 metres high, 326 metres
above sea level, and on a clear day the Tatra Mountains
can be seen from the top.
In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities
built a brick fortress around the Mound, which they
used as a strategic lookout point. Demolishing a chapel
of St. Bronisława at the site, the thoughtful Austrians
actually built a new chapel, incorporating it into the
stronghold. By contrast, the Germans later threatened
to entirely level the Mound and surrounding
fortifications during their WWII occupation as they set
about destroying all Polish monuments and national
symbols (along with 3 million Polish Jews). Though
parts of the fortress were destroyed, the complex
has been restored and significant engineering
improvements have been made to the Mound to
ensure its longevity.
Climbing to the peak is tiring work, but the panoramic
views of Kraków are a worthwhile reward. The neo-Gothic
Chapel of St. Bronisława, which contains a medley of
objects connected to Kościuszko’s life, can also be visited
and the surrounding fortiﬁcations also house two cafes, a
radio station, restaurant, wax museum and ﬁve additional
historical exhibitions. Admission is included with the
mound to all exhibits.QF-3, Al. Waszyngtona 1, tel.
(+48) 12 425 11 09, www.kopieckosciuszki.pl. Mound
open daily from 09:00 until dusk, exhibits open 09:30
- 17:30 in April, 09:30 - 18:30 in May. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/10zł, family
ticket 30-40zł. N
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April - May 2015
99
Nowa Huta
Nowa Huta
WHAT TO SEE
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The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the
huge Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct
antithesis of everything cuddly Kraków is. Gargoyles and
tourists? Not here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta
is one of only two entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities
ever built (the other being Magnitogorsk in Russia’s Ural
Mountains), and one of the ﬁnest examples of deliberate
social engineering in the world.
Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a
huge swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village
of Kościelniki (as well as parts of Mogiła and Krzesławice) in
an attempt to create an in-your-face proletarian opponent
to intellectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Kraków. The decision to
build NH was rubber stamped on May 17, 1947 and over
the next few years construction of a model city for 100,000
people sprung up at breakneck speed. Built to impress,
Nowa Huta featured wide, tree-lined avenues, parks, lakes
and the oﬃcially sanctioned architectural style of the
time - Socialist Realism. Nowa Huta’s architects strove to
construct the ideal city, with ironic inspiration coming from
the neighbourhood blocks built in 1920s New York (that
despicable western metropolis). Careful planning was key,
and the suburb was designed with ‘eﬃcient mutual control’
in mind: wide streets would prevent the spread of ﬁre and
the profusion of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast,
while the layout was such that the city could easily be
turned into a fortress if it came under attack.
Work on the ﬁrst block of ﬂats began on June 23, 1949,
and it was a massive task, with volunteer workers ﬂocking
from across Poland to take part in this bold project. Feats of
100 Kraków In Your Pocket
personal sacriﬁce were rife and encouraged with one man,
Piotr Ożański, publicly credited with laying an stupendous
33,000 bricks in one single day. For the workers life was
tough; many were still sleeping in tents when the ﬁrst
winter arrived, legends abound of bodies buried in the
foundations, and crime was rampant.
Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was
Nowa Huta was never fully realised. A fearsome town hall
in the style of the renaissance halls found across Poland
was never built, nor was the theatre building across from
it and the ornamental architectural details planned for the
monumental buildings of Plac Centralny were never added.
However what was completed is very much worth the trip
for intrepid tourists willing to teleport themselves into a
completely diﬀerent reality far from the cobbled kitsch of
Kraków; it’s as easy as a tramride.
Jump oﬀ a tram at Plac Centralny and ﬁnd yourself at the
very nucleus of Nowa Huta. Dating from 1949, the Central
Square is a masterpiece of Soviet social planning, and the
brainchild of architect Tadeusz Ptaszycki. In another twist of
irony, this Soviet landmark which once bore Stalin’s name
was oﬃcially re-designated ‘Ronald Reagan Square’ in 2004,
though speak to any local and you’ll still ﬁnd it referred to
as Pl. Centralny. While this ‘square’ serves as the focal point
for visitors, it’s the Steelworks (ul. Ujasek 1, T-2) that Nowa
Huta is known for, not to mention named after. As Poland
rebuilt itself from near complete destruction after WWII,
steel was of vital importance. Work began in April 1950, and
by 1954 the ﬁrst blast furnace was in operation. Employing
some 40,000 people in its heyday the Steelworks - named
for a time after Lenin - were capable of producing seven
million tonnes of steel annually, and at one time boasted
the largest blast furnace in Europe. Such was its reputation
that Fidel Castro chose to visit the Steelworks rather than
Kraków’s Rynek on one state visit to Poland. Found on the
end of al. Solidarności the entrance has been given the
full socialist treatment, with two concrete monstrosities
built to echo the ﬁne old buildings of Poland. You’ll hear
the natives referring to this architectural masterstroke as
‘the Vatican,’ poking fun at the grandeur it was meant to
emulate. Ironically, the Steelworks are even less accessible
to tourists than the Vatican, so you can give up any ideas of
getting past the main gates.
Nowa Huta was meant to be a socialist showcase city,
but it soon became a hotbed of anti-communist activity
and played a huge role in the Solidarity strikes of the early
1980s, preceded by the struggle for permission to build
the city’s ﬁrst church; though it took 28 years, The Lord’s
Ark was ﬁnally consecrated in 1977. While much of NH is
the product of the last half century, a true tour of the area
reveals a number of treasures of much older historical
value. The most epitomising example of a pre-steel age
in the area is Wanda’s Mound, a mysterious prehistoric
earthwork that proves the area’s settlement predates that of
Kraków’s Old Town. The quiet communities of Krzesławice
and Mogiła each hide pristine examples of ancient Polish
sacral architecture in the wooden churches of St. John
the Baptist and St. Bartholomew. Artist Jan Matejko
enjoyed Krzesławice so much he used it as an artist retreat
as his preserved period manor house reveals. Mogiła
meanwhile harbours one of the most cherished religious
sites in Małopolska in the Cistercian Monastery and its
morbidly miraculous cross. If you’ve more time to explore, a
walking or cycling tour of Mogiła’s small back roads is akin
to an open-air ethnographic museum, just watch out for
the German shepherds behind every garden fence.
GETTING TO NOWA HUTA
Scale model of original urban plan for Plac Centralny and Roses
Avenue.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram
network. Tram 4 from Dworzec Główny (the train station
stop) goes straight to Plac Centralny in about 20mins.
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MOGIŁA
CISTERCIAN MONASTERY
& CHURCH OF ST. BARTHOLOMEW
Located in what remains
of the sleepy village of
Mogiła that Nowa Huta
was plunked down upon,
this small cluster of ancient religious buildings
- which includes the CisRobin, Wikipedia, CC BY 2.0
tercian Monastery and its
two adjoining churches, as well as St. Bartholomew’s
Church across the street - was the closest place of
worship to Plac Centralny until Arka Pana Church
(N-1) was ﬁnally consecrated in 1977. The vast and
splendid Holy Cross Basilica and the adjoining Cistercian cloister, which date way, way back to 1266, are
recognised as among the most important religious
buildings in Małopolska. During the Renaissance the
monastery was well known for its master painters
and the huge interior of Holy Cross Basilica, as well as
the monastery library, feature many ﬁne works from
the period. Most importantly, Holy Cross Basilica also
stores the famous Cross of Mogiła - the source of
many miraculous legends. Said to have been discovered when a blacksmith’s son jumped into the Wisła
River to save what he thought to be a drowning man,
the cross was brought to the monastery and quickly
began building a reputation for miracles, before
cementing them when it was the only part of the
church’s furnishings not destroyed by ﬁre in 1447,
despite being made of wood. Christ’s hair and loincloth were burned however, and ever since that time
he has donned a wrap of true fabric and a wig of real
human hair. Weird.
The timber Church of St. Bartholomew’s was erected
across from the monastic complex to provide a place
of worship for the Catholic layman, one of whom
- master carpenter Maciej Mączka - put his name
and completion date on the door after building this
enduring wooden treasure. Founded by Kraków
bishop Iwo Odrowąż, who brought the Cistercians to
Mogiła from Silesia in 1222, the present structure dates
from 1466. Exceptional for its three aisles - a rarity in
wooden church architecture - the 18th century belfry
and beautiful domed entrance gate have also been
preserved.
Mogiła is easily accessed from Plac Centralny via trams
10 and 16; get oﬀ at the ‘Klasztorna’ stop and it’s a short
walk south.QR-5, ul. Klasztorna 11, www.mogila.
cystersi.pl. Holy Cross Basilica open 06:00 - 19:00,
but sightseeing is limited to between services only.
St. Bartholomew’s open from May (exact hours
unknown at press time).
April - May 2015
101
Nowa Huta
Nowa Huta
CHURCHES
MUSEUMS
PLACES OF INTEREST
CHURCH OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST
Next door to Matejko’s manor house, this is one of two
wooden churches in the area. Built between 1633 and
1648 in the village of Jaworniki in the mountains on
Poland’s eastern border with Ukraine, when the church
was threatened by demolition in the 1980s local authorities
surprisingly approved its transfer to Krzesławice as part of
a planned open-air folk architecture museum which never
came to be. A tower was added and the historic monument
took on new life as a place of worship, which continues
today with regular services held in the small, single-aisle
interior.QS-2, ul. Wańkowicza, tel. (+48) 12 642 15 84.
Open only during mass and by prior arrangement.
JAN MATEJKO MANOR HOUSE
CENTRAL SQUARE & ROSES AVENUE
The centre of Nowa Huta’s architectural layout, Plac
Centralny (Central Square) is the district’s primary
landmark and one of social realism’s highest architectural
achievements, despite never being completed. The two
main structures of the square were to be the towering
Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN) at the northern end
and a colonnaded theatre at the southern end, with an
obelisk in between; though the designs were in place, none
saw development. Similarly, the grand promenade linking
them - Roses Avenue (Aleja Róż, O-3) - was never fully
realised, and terminates after a mere four blocks, making
it a ﬁne example of your typical Stalinist ‘road to nowhere.’
THE LORD’S ARK
Located in Krzesławice - a charming village hidden just
one street behind Nowa Huta’s artiﬁcial lake, here you’ll
ﬁnd the small manor house with a wood shingle roof once
used as a workshop by Poland’s greatest 19th century
painter, Jan Matejko. Though seemingly ironic today, this
is where the artist went to escape the crude haste of life
in Kraków. First inhabited by Hugo Kołłątaj - an eminent
Enlightenment political activist who co-penned Poland’s
constitution (the ﬁrst in Europe), Matejko purchased the
manor in 1876 adding on the porch and the extension
which would house his workshop. Inside guests will see
Matejko’s famous ‘Gallery of Polish Kings’ as well as many
illustrations, everyday items and period furniture. Next door
is the wooden Church of St. John the Baptist - also worth
seeing.QS-1, ul. Wańkowicza 25, tel. (+48) 12 644 56 74.
Open Fri, Sat only 10:00 - 14:00. From May open Tue-Sat
10:00 - 14:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/5zł. N
Built between 1967 and 1977,
Nowa Huta’s ﬁrst house of
worship was designed by
Wojciech Pietrzyk and was
pieced together brick by brick
by volunteer workers with no
assistance from the communist
authorities. The complete opposite of what Nowa Huta was
meant to stand for, The Lord’s Ark is a remarkable building,
and a true symbol of the Polish belief in Catholicism. With
no outside help it was down to the locals to mix cement
with spades, and ﬁnd the two million stones needed for the
church’s facade. The ﬁrst corner stone was laid in 1969 by
Cardinal Karol Wojtyła, who would later assume fame as Pope
John Paul II, but the discovery of a WWII ammunition dump
delayed work, as some 5,000 mines and shells had to be
carefully removed. Finally, on May 15th 1977, the church was
consecrated. Built to resemble Noah’s Ark, with a 70 metre
mast-shaped cruciﬁx rising from the middle, the church
houses an array of curious treasures, including a stone from
the tomb of St. Peter in the Vatican, a tabernacle containing
a fragment of rutile brought back from the moon by the
crew of Apollo 11, and a controversial statue of Christ that
shows him not on a cross, but about to ﬂy to the heavens.
If you think that’s odd, check out the statue dedicated to
Our Lady the Armoured - a half metre sculpture made from
ten kilograms of shrapnel removed from Polish soldiers
wounded at the Battle of Monte Cassino. In the early 1980s,
the church became a focal point during anti-communist
protests, not least for the shelter it aﬀorded the locals from
the militia. Protesting during the period of Martial Law was
dangerous business, as proven by the monument dedicated
to Bogdan Włosik opposite the church. Włosik was shot in
the chest by security services, and later died of his injuries.
His death outraged the people, and his funeral was attended
by 20,000 mourners. The monument commemorating the
site of his death was erected in 1992 and is a tribute to all
those who died during this period. As recently as September
2012, Kraków City Council awarded Arka Pana the ‘Cracoviae
Merenti’ silver medallion for its signiﬁcance to the city’s
history.QN-1, ul. Obrońców Krzyża 1, www.arkapana.pl.
Open 08:30 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.
102 Kraków In Your Pocket
NOWA HUTA MUSEUM
This small museum features sweet neon signage and a
series of changing exhibitions relating to the life and culture
of the district. A requisite stop for anyone in the area, here
you can also pick up plenty of information about NH,
and they arrange sightseeing tours of the district as well.
QO-2, os. Słoneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425
97 75, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
5/4zł, family ticket 10zł, Wed free. YUN
TOURS
CRAZY GUIDES
Specialising in communist-themed tours of Nowa
Huta: experience Stalin’s gift to Kraków - one of the
world’s only centrally planned cities - in a genuine
Eastern Bloc Trabant 601 automobile. Considering
the large size and somewhat underwhelming nature
of walking around the district on your own, this may
be the best way to get the most out of a trip to Nowa
Huta.QC-2, ul. Floriańska 38, tel. (+48) 500 09 12 00,
www.crazyguides.com. ‘Communism Tour’ 139zł per
person.
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While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining
the way, you’ll ﬁnd several curiosities. First and foremost,
don’t miss the gorgeously restored ‘Markiza’ neon sign
at the corner of os. Centrum A and al. Jana Pawła II (O-4).
Though the cake shop it advertised is long gone, the sign
stanmds out as the area’s most nostalgic memento from
the PRL era. Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta
is Cepelix (os. Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat
10:00-13:00, closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and
design, this amazing gift shop is like none other thanks
to the original 50s interior of stylised furnishings, metal
chandeliers and a coﬀer ceiling with colourful hand-painted
ceramic plates. The character of this place hasn’t changed a
bit and as such it’s a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework,
famous Bolesławiec pottery, and even Nowa Huta souvenirs.
Across the street is a typical milk bar (bar mleczny), one
of the Soviet era worker cafeterias which still thrive in the
district. If you think that can’t be topped, take a trip to
the other end of the block to see the hideously outdated
interiors of the famous Stylowa Restaurant - one of the
only places to eat in NH that isn’t a milk bar. Once one of
the most exclusive restaurants in town, this place carries
on in the same spirit as the day it opened with an interior
that hasn’t changed in well over 30 years. Stop in Saturday
evening to witness pensioned locals strutting their stuﬀ on
the danceﬂoor to live disco polo sets by a crooning husband
and wife team, and we guarantee you won’t be able to leave
before dancing with at least two grannies and having at least
three unwanted conversations. A rare cultural experience,
few places like Stylowa still exist anywhere.QO-4.
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WANDA’S MOUND
Though
construction
of Nowa Huta began in
1949, Kopiec Wandy is
indisputable evidence that
the history of the area goes
back much further. In fact,
the village of Mogiła, which
Kopiec Wandy is near the
historical centre of, has
been inhabited since 5000
BC without interruption,
while archaeologists date
the settlement of Kraków’s
Old Town much later in
the 8th century. Together
with Kopiec Krakusa in Podgórze (K-5) - Kraków’s other
prehistoric earthwork - Kopiec Wandy plays a role in one of
Poland’s greatest archeaological mysteries as the mound’s
date of construction, builders and function all remain a
subject of great speculation. Leading theories suggest that
both mounds were erected sometime between the 6th
and 10th centuries, by either the Slavs or the Celts, as burial
mounds or pagan cult sites; perhaps most likely is that
they were created as burial mounds which later became
cult sites. Though seemingly random within the layout of
modern Kraków, the location of the two mounds can hardly
be seen as an accident; when standing atop Kopiec Wandy
on the evening of the summer solstice, the sun can be seen
setting in a direct line behind Kopiec Krakusa.
Oﬀ a major road behind a handy tramstop (station
‘Kopiec Wandy’), Wanda’s Mound is a conical earthwork
rising 14m with a winding path to the top, adorned by a
small monument from the 19th century by Jan Matejko
who lived in the Krzesławice Manor nearby. The victim
of general neglect and geographical trespasses, Wanda’s
Mound today lies just beyond the fence of the fearsomely
enormous Sendzimir steel plant, of which glimpses of a
large junkyard can be seen through the trees. The view to
the southwest is an improvement, where Kopiec Krakusa
and Podgórze can be seen in the distance, though Wanda’s
Mound unfortunately doesn’t oﬀer sweeping views of
the same caliber as Kraków’s other mounds. The parkland
surrounding the mound is in need of the development
which is apparently planned, not to mention some proper
modern archaeological studies; behind the mound is a
footpath leading to the right towards one of Kraków’s
hidden 19th century Austrian fortresses, but, honestly,
it just gives us the creeps.QT-4, Near intersection of ul.
Ujastek Mogilski and ul. Bardosa.
More to explore
in Nowa Huta online:
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April - May 2015
103
Wieliczka
HISTORY
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Kraków is without a doubt one of the most popular
tourist cities in Central Europe, and as you’ve likely heard,
one of its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually
located in Wieliczka—a small town about 15km to
the southeast. An astounding 1.2 million people visit
Wieliczka Salt Mine each year (that’s one out of every
seven or eight visitors to Kraków), and it’s hardly a recent
phenomenon—people have been visiting the salt mine
for centuries with notable guests including Nicolaus
Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk
Chopin, Ignacy Panderewski, Pope John Paul II and
former US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the ﬁrst oﬃcial
tourist trail opened underground here way back in the
mid-19th century. But it’s not only tourists who come to
visit. So deep is the love of the locals for this place that in
a recent survey, Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine as
their number one favourite thing about Kraków; again,
not bad for an attraction in another town 15 kilometres
away. Not only is Wieliczka a World Heritage Site, but it
has the distinction of having been included (along with
Kraków’s Old Town and Kazimierz districts) on UNESCO’s
ﬁrst-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you know,
back when being a World Heritage site actually meant
something). Additional accolades aside, this unique
industrial heritage site has been a popular destination
for centuries and if you’re visiting Kraków, you should
also consider the short side trip out to Wieliczka, which
in addition to the famous salt mine, also boasts a health
resort, castle and museum.
104 Kraków In Your Pocket
About 20 million years ago, Kraków and the surrounding area
lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea. Unfortunately the
beaches are gone, but left behind were some enormous salt
deposits, shifted hundreds of metres underground by tectonic
movements. Though cheap and universally accessible today,
salt was an extremely valuable commodity centuries ago due
to its ability to preserve food, especially meat. An ancient sign
of wealth, salt was used as currency before there was money;
Roman soldiers who ably performed their duties were said to
be ‘worth their salt’ and the word ‘salary’ comes from the Latin
word ‘salarium’ used to describe their salty wages.
Salt extraction by boiling water from briny surface pools in
the regions surrounding Kraków can be traced back to the
middle Neolithic era (3500 BC), but it was the discovery of
underground rock salt in the 13th century that led to the rapid
development of the area. Underground extraction began in
nearby Bochnia in 1252 and was established on an industrial
scale in Wieliczka by the 1280s; soon both cities had earned
municipal rights and by the end of the 13th century the
Cracow Saltworks was established to manage both mines,
with its headquarters in the Wieliczka Castle complex. One of
the ﬁrst companies in Europe, the Cracow Saltworks brought
vast wealth to the Polish crown for the next 500 years until the
ﬁrst partition of Poland in the 18th century. Its heyday was
the 16th and 17th centuries when it employed some 2,000
people, production exceeded 30,000 tonnes and the Saltworks
accounted for one third of the revenue of the state treasury.
Under Austrian occupation (1772-1918) production was
further increased by mechanising the mining works with
steam and later electric machinery, and the ﬁrst tourist
route was opened. By the 20th century however, overexploitation and neglect of necessary protection works
had begun to destabilise the mine’s condition and the
market value of salt no longer made it a viable enterprise.
In 1964 the extraction of rock salt was halted in Wieliczka
and in 1996 exploitation of the salt deposit was stopped
altogether. Despite the signiﬁcant hazards of the day
(ﬂooding, cave-ins, explosive gas), over the course of seven
centuries 26 access shafts and 180 fore-shafts connecting
individual levels had been drilled in Wieliczka. 2,350
chambers had been excavated with over 240km of tunnels
reaching a maximum depth of 327m underground. Due to
its unique saline microclimate and innovative engineering,
the mine has been well preserved and is today used for
historical, medicinal and tourist purposes.
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Wieliczka
Auschwitz
After passing a lake that holds more than 300g of salt per
litre, and a hall high enough to ﬂy a hot-air balloon in (you
can take a lift to the balcony at the top for 10zł), the ﬁrst
part of the tour ends at the underground restaurant and
souvenir stands, at which point you should be instructed
on your two options: how to exit (option A) or where and
when to join the second part of the tour (option B). If this
option B is unmentioned or unclear, inform your guide
that you also want to see the Underground Museum
and ask them how to do so.
WIELICZKA SALT MINE
A visit to the salt mine begins at the Daniłowicza Shaft;
buy your ticket from the adjacent ticket oﬃce and check
the outside display for the time of the next guided tour
in your language. Your ticket is valid for two parts of
the salt mine: the Tourist Route, which comprises the
ﬁrst 2 hours, and the Underground Museum which
takes an additional hour to visit. In between there’s an
opportunity to take a break, use the restrooms and even
get something to eat (or escape if that’s your preference).
However, be aware that the tour does not end at the
restaurant as many tour guides suggest it does to
foreign groups; in fact, they are obliged to escort you to
and through the Underground Museum (which you have
already paid for) as well.
Be prepared to do a lot of walking and bear in mind that the
mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. If you want to
endear the guides, memorise the wonderful words Szczęść
Boże (shtench boes-yuh); this essential, unpronounceable
bit of miner’s lingo eﬀectively means ‘God be with you’ and
substitutes for Dzień dobry (‘hello’) when underground.
Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden
stairs (don’t worry, you won’t have to climb them) to the
ﬁrst level 64m underground. Of nine levels, the tour only
takes you to the ﬁrst three (a max depth of 135m), with
the 3.5kms covered during the 3 hour tour (including
both parts) comprising a mere 1% of this underground
realm. While wandering the timber-re-enforced tunnels
you’ll gain insight from your guide into the history of the
site, the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives
of the men who worked there. There’s the opportunity
to not only operate a medieval winch used for moving
massive blocks of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring
some tequila). The tour visits numerous ancient chambers
and chapels in which almost everything around you is
made from rock salt, including the tiled ﬂoors, chandeliers,
sculptures and stringy stalactites that hang down. The
highlight of the tour is the magniﬁcent 22,000m³ St.
Kinga’s Chapel dating from the 17th century. Known for
its amazing acoustics, the chapel features bas-relief wall
carvings from the New Testament done by miners that
display an astonishing amount of depth and realism.
106 Kraków In Your Pocket
At your leisure you should be able to ﬁnd your way past
the restaurant and restrooms, beyond which you’ll ﬁnd
the queue for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift
that shoots you back up to the surface (option A), and
separate area to the right for those that want to continue
on to the Underground Museum (option B, which we
heartily recommend). Your original guide should admit
you into the museum exhibition which comprises an
additional 16 chambers over 1.5kms packed full of artwork,
artefacts and mining equipment which your guide will
elaborate on. Perhaps the most fascinating and informative
part of the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of these
beautiful exhibits include two paintings by famous 19th
century Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full
of sparkling salt crystals. Upon completion your guide
leads you back to the ancient lift which takes you above
ground back to where you started.Qul. Daniłowicza 10,
Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl.
Open 07:30 - 19:30. Admission 79/64zł; taking photos
is an additional 10zł. In addition to the popular ‘Tourist
Route’ described above, several other routes are oﬀered
including a handicap-accessible route, a route for
children, and the ‘Miner’s Route’ (open 09:30 -18:00) an interactive tour in which tourists are assigned a role
by the foreman/tour guide and experience the daily
routines, rituals and secrets of working underground.
GETTING TO WIELICZKA
Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east
out of Kraków (aptly named ul. Wieliczka within city
limits) leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about
15 minutes. If you don’t have your own ride, take bus
304 from the ‘Dworzec Główny Zachód’ stop outside
Galeria Krakowska near ul. Kurniki (D-1, buy a 4/2zł
ticket for Zone II from the ticket machine on-board),
or hop on one of the Wieliczka-bound mini-buses
leaving from the parking area near there at the corner
of ul. Worcella and ul. Pawia (D-2, 3.00zł tickets can be
bought from the driver and the journey time is 2030mins).Alternatively, a new train service direct from
Kraków’s main train station to within walking distance
of the mine makes getting to Wieliczka easier than ever
for tourists. Trains leave every 30mins between 05:10
and 21:10, the journey time is only about 20mins, and
tickets are 3.00zł each way.
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For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater
community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed
with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’ under
German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest
death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5
million people were exterminated here, etching the name
of Auschwitz forever into the history books; countless ﬁlms,
documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since
burned it into the collective consciousness, and the recent
70th anniversary of the camp’s liberation on January
27th, 2015 was commemorated internationally.
Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is
presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps
spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by
the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter how
much you think you know on the subject, the perspective
gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you
choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However
it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of
Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy
concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern.
As such, we believe everyone should visit.
Visitors to Kraków are faced with asking themselves whether or
not they will make the eﬀort to visit Auschwitz. It is a diﬃcult
question. There are few who would say they actually ‘want’ to
visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do so for their
own reasons. For those of us who don’t feel so compelled, it’s
easy to give reasons for not going: not having enough time,
already knowing as much as we need or want to know about
it, not feeling personally connected enough to the site or the
history to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the
prospect of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the
same time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there,
we can tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding
Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until you’ve actually visited
the site; you’ll be hard-pressed to ﬁnd anyone who has made
the trip and still argues against going.
VISITING AUSCHWITZ
The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most
horriﬁc acts in human history with a level of tact, passion,
poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it
almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself.
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Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum can be chaotic and
confusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket windows
with diﬀerent designations, and excessive signage that
contradicts itself. This can be avoided by going as part of an
organised group tour, organised by a local tour company. If
you are visiting independently however, or in a small group,
ﬁnd the queue for the desk marked ‘Individual Guests’. During
peak tourist season the museum makes it obligatory to buy a
ticket and become part of a guided tour unless you get there
before 10:00 (diﬃcult to do from Kraków) or after 15:00; in
the oﬀ season (November 1st - March 31st) it is also possible
to explore the museum for free without a guide regardless
of the time. Be that as it may, we strongly recommend the
guided tour, which is excellent, profound and professional;
afterwards you’ll ﬁnd it hard to imagine getting as much
out of your visit had you explored the grounds on your own.
Tours in English depart most frequently, and there are also
regularly scheduled tours in German, French, Italian, Polish
April - May 2015
107
Auschwitz
GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ
Lying 75km west of Kraków, there are several ways
to get to Oświęcim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be
signing on for a tour organised by a multitude of
Kraków-based tour companies (like Cracow City Tours
or Cracow Tours) to ensure everything goes smoothly;
providing transportation, tickets and general guidance,
the organisational help of these outﬁts can eliminate
signiﬁcant confusion upon arrival.
For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart
for Oświęcim from the main bus station (ul. Bosacka
18, E-1); most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance,
but not all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you
may end up at the Oświęcim bus station which is at
the other end of town. The journey takes 1hr 40mins
and costs 12zł.
Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between
Kraków and Oświęcim, with a journey time of 1hr
45mins - 1hr 55mins and a cost of about 9,50zł; note,
however, that early trains to Oświęcim can be eerily
crowded, particularly on weekends.
The Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 22)
lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz
II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers
24-29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a ticket (under 3zł) from
the nearest kiosk. Museum buses regularly shuttle
visitors between the two camps, or catch a cab for 15zł.
Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour (+48 605 315
077) can take you back to Kraków from either camp - a
group of eight would pay about 30-40zł/person.
JEWISH CENTRE
AUSCHWITZ JEWISH CENTRE & CHEVRA
LOMDEI MISHNAYOT SYNAGOGUE
This centre located 3km from the Auschwitz museum
maintains the town’s restored synagogue, shows a ﬁlm
with testimonies of Holocaust survivors and oﬀers a
specially tailored programme for those who call ahead.
It also features a permanent exhibition on Jewish life in
the town of Oświęcim before World War II, and there’s
a cafe with a sweet roof terrace in the warmer months.
QPl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844
70 02, www.ajcf.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 15zł, kids 6 and
under free. N
108 Kraków In Your Pocket
Auschwitz
and Spanish. Tour departure times change frequently; exact
times can be seen online at auschwitz.org.pl and it would
be wise to look them up before visiting. The museum makes
a big eﬀort to provide the tour in the native language of
each guest, and tours in languages other than those just
mentioned can be easily arranged if done in advance.
After purchasing your ticket and headphones, your
experience typically begins with a harrowing 20 minute
ﬁlm of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army
when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945.
The ﬁlm (not recommended for children under 14) is
not guaranteed year-round however, in which case your
tour of the camp begins straightaway with a live guide
speaking into a microphone which you hear through your
headphones.
Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare
accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of
Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve
eaten breakfast. After completing the tour of the ﬁrst
camp, there is only a short break before the bus leaves
for Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same
tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be
wise to pack some food for the day (though there is some
limited food available at the museum). The tour of the
second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly
depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or catch a cab
to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are
restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar and
restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz
II-Birkenau. If exploring Auschwitz without a guide, it
is highly recommended that you pick up the oﬃcial
guidebook (5zł), whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid
missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up at any
of the numerous bookshops at both sites.QAuschwitz I
open 08:00 - 17:00. From May open 08:00- 18:00. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing.
Auschwitz II - Birkenau open 08:00 - 18:00. From May
open 08:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 1.5 hours before
closing. An individual ticket for a foreign language
guided tour of both camps costs 40/30zł. Tours for
groups up to 10 people, 250zł. For larger groups 300zł.
The ﬁlm costs 4/3 zł. Oﬃcial guidebook 5zł.
The remaining blocks are dedicated to the speciﬁc suﬀering
of individual nations, including a block dedicated in memory
of the Roma people who perished. The tour concludes with
the gruesome gas chamber and crematoria, whose two
furnaces were capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The
gallows used to hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss
in 1947 stands outside.Qul. Więźniów Oświęcimia 20,
Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org.
AUSCHWITZ I
Your tour of Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a
replica of the infamous ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ (‘Work Makes You
Free’) entrance gate. [The original sign was actually made
by inmates of the camp on Nazi orders and is no longer on
display after it was stolen in December 2009 and found in
pieces in northern Poland a few days after the theft.] From
the entrance gate, the prescribed tour route leads past
the kitchens, where the camp orchestra once played as
prisoners marched to work, before starting in earnest inside
Block 4. Here an overview of the creation and reality behind
the world’s most notorious concentration camp is given,
with exhibits including original architectural sketches for
gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B used for extermination and
mugshots of inmates. Most disturbing is over seven tonnes
of human hair once destined for German factories, which
does much to demonstrate the scale and depravity of the
Nazi death machine.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived
prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some
of which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of
artiﬁcial limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits
and, most aﬀectingly, children’s shoes. Block 6 examines
the daily life of prisoners with collections of photographs,
artists’ drawings and tools used for hard labour while the
next set of barracks recreates the living conditions endured
by prisoners: bare rooms with sackcloth spread out on the
ﬂoor, and rows of communal latrines, one decorated with a
poignant mural depicting two playful kittens.
AUSCHWITZ II - BIRKENAU
Having completed the long tour of Auschwitz I, some
visitors decline the opportunity to visit Auschwitz II Birkenau, however it’s here that the impact of Auschwitz
can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope and solitude
of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau contained
300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that covered 175
hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Conference on January
20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen rubber-stamped
the wholesale extermination of European Jews, it grew to
become the biggest and most savage of all the Nazi death
factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held there in 1944.
The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the
camp still remain. Here a grim selection process took
place with 70% of those who arrived herded directly into
gas chambers. Those selected as ﬁt for slave labour lived
in squalid, unheated barracks where starvation, disease
and exhaustion accounted for countless lives. With the
Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to hide all traces
of their crimes. Today little remains, with all gas chambers
having been dynamited and living quarters levelled. Climb
the tower of the main gate for a full impression of the
complex’s size. Directly to the right lie wooden barracks
used as a quarantine area, while across on the left hand side
lie numerous brick barracks which were home to the penal
colony and also the women’s camp. At the far end of the
camp lie the mangled remains of the crematoria, as well
as a bleak monument unveiled in 1967. After a comparably
brief guided tour of the camp, visitors are left to wander
and reﬂect on their own before catching the return bus to
Auschwitz I.QOświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.
auschwitz.org.
Block 11, otherwise known as ‘The Death Block’, is arguably
the most diﬃcult part of the tour. Outside, the ‘Wall of Death’
- against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS
- has been turned into a memorial festooned with ﬂowers; it
was here that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his groundbreaking visit in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic
cellars of Block 11 the Nazi’s conducted their ﬁrst experiments
with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the cell of
Father Maximilian Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to death
after oﬀering his life to save another inmate, is marked with
a small memorial, and tiny ‘standing cells’ measuring 90 x
90 cm - where up to four prisoners were held for indeﬁnite
amounts of time - remain intact.
The infamous ‘Wall of Death’
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April - May 2015
109
Tarnów
Tarnów
SIGHTSEEING
CATHEDRAL
Dating from the 14th century with major additions and
rebuilds in the 15th and 19th centuries, the Neo-Gothic
Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, just northwest
of the Rynek and one of the oldest brick buildings in the city,
must rate as one of the most impressive parish churches in
Poland. Of note is the 16th-century portal, the impressive
several-metre-long monuments to the Tarnowski and
Ostrogski families, a number of extraordinary paintings and
the impressive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of reference
when getting lost in one of Tarnów’s many rambling
back streets. Some nice recent additions are also evident,
including the fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on
the southern side of the building.QPl. Katedralny, tel.
(+48) 14 621 45 01, www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.pl.
Open 09:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:30 (except Sundays). No
visiting during mass please.
Tarnów Old Town. Photo by Krzysztoff Gzyll, courte
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Eighty kilometres east of Kraków lies the charming and
hospitable city of Tarnów. Małopolska’s second city by size,
Tarnów is absolutely dwarfed by Kraków but features many
of the same cultural and architectural charms without the
crushing crowds, inﬂated prices and occasional feelings of
herd mentality that unfortunately come along with a tourist
market the size of Kraków’s. On the contrary, Tarnów oﬀers
tourists the comforts of a small town with a long history and
the cultural intrigue and activities of a much bigger city. In
addition to a well-preserved medieval Old Town - which
includes a glorious Cathedral, a cute market square and
Town Hall, and many pedestrian avenues - in Tarnów visitors
will discover several unique and worthwhile museums,
wooden churches, historic cemeteries, castle ruins and a
scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic and historical
monuments at every turn. Those with a special interest in
Tarnów’s Jewish heritage will still ﬁnd traces of it today in
the city’s small, but evocative Jewish district and large
Jewish Cemetery. While the town’s nightlife may not have
the sizzle of Kraków, there are still plenty of bars, cafes and
restaurants where you’ll ﬁnd it easy to meet friendly local
folks who are proud of their city and eager to present a
good impression to foreigners. All told it’s enough to easily
warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as Tarnów
also makes a superb base for exploring the wealth of other
nearby sites in the region, including the Castle at Dębno,
the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of Bochnia. You’ll
ﬁnd more information on Tarnów and all the surrounding
area has to oﬀer on our website (tarnow.inyourpocket.
com), but make sure you also pay a visit to the ﬁne folks at
the Tourist Information Oﬃce when you arrive and pick up
a copy of IYP’s special Tarnów mini-guide.
110 Kraków In Your Pocket
EAT & DRINK
CAFE TRAMWAJ (TRAM CAFE)
It’s been over 70 years since streetcars graced the streets of
Tarnów, but this antique tram parked on Plac Sobieskiego
takes tourists and locals back in time to Tarnów’s golden era,
when electriﬁed public transport was a symbol of the city’s
stature. Capturing the spirit of the old days (the good ones,
mind you) this wood-trimmed, authentically furnished tram
car full of sepia postcards and inter-war souvenirs is the perfect
place to meet for coﬀee, a slice of cake and a conversation.
There’s ice cream in summer time, a mini-library with books
on the region, and it’s also a free wiﬁ hotspot, which is
hardly taken for granted in this town. If you can score one of
the limited number of tables, you’ll be happy you did.QPl.
Sobieskiego 2, tel. (+48) 503 37 23 29. Open 06:30 - 21:00,
Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 6NGSW
SOPRANO
This is bona ﬁde ﬁne dining, from the exceptional Italian
cuisine down to the gold tablecloths. Unfortunately the
best seats in the house are in the lush seasonal garden where you can watch the chef at work with the brick, woodﬁred pizza oven - but that shouldn’t stop you from making
this your dinner destination in lousy weather as well. The
soups are delicious and come with fresh olive bread, while
our goose with cherry sauce (42zł) was a worthy follow-up.
Probably the most money you can spend on a meal out in
Tarnów, and still a heck of a bargain.Qul. Mościckiego 6,
tel. (+48) 14 621 09 09, www.soprano-tarnow.pl. Open
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
(18-48zł). TUGSW
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DIOCESAN MUSEUM
To paraphrase the late John Paul II, the Church needs art
to better understand what lies inside the soul of man, and
Tarnów’s superb Diocesan Museum, established in 1888,
does a very good job at doing just that. An astonishing
collection of religious art from the 15th century onwards,
housed inside an equally wonderful ensemble of 16thcentury houses, the museum’s most precious artefact
is the original alter from St. Leonard’s church in nearby
Lipnica Murowana, moved here for preservation reasons at
the insistence of UNESCO. Other highlights include some
truly breathtaking Gothic triptychs and sculptures from
Małopolska, a collection of church fabrics from the Middle
Ages and a few pieces of 19th-century religious folk art. A
marvellous and highly recommended experience.QPl.
Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum.
diecezja.tarnow.pl. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00; Sun
09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 14:00; closed Mon. Admission free.
TARNÓW DISTRICT MUSEUM - MAIN BRANCH
The new headquarters of the many branches of the Tarnów
District Museum, located in an historical building right on
the Rynek, this museum currently hosts rotating temporary
exhibits, and is the permanent home Tarnów’s collection of
fragments of the Transylvania Panorama - a lost masterpiece
painted on an epic scale depicting local hero Józef
Bem’s victory at the Battle of Sibiu during the Hungarian
Revolution of 1848. Displayed in Lwów, Budapest and then
Warsaw until WWII, regrettably the enormous panoramic
canvas was cut into 100 pieces, the majority of which have
yet to be recovered. A pet project of the Tarnów District
Museum, the museum currently possesses 15 out of the
36 fragments which have been located.QRynek 3, tel.
(+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open
09:00 - 15:00; Thu 09:00 - 17:00; Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sat. From May open 09:00 - 17:00; Wed, Fri
09:00 - 15:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Admission 8/5zł,
family ticket 15zł; Sun free for the permanent exhibition
(Transylvania Panorama). N
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GETTING TO TARNÓW
Only 80km east of Kraków, Tarnów is most easily
reached by road - a hassle-free drive down the new
A4 highway that takes less than an hour. Buses from
Kraków to Tarnów run about once an hour, with the
ﬁrst leaving as early as 06:35 and the last bus back to
Kraków departing at 21:35; the journey takes between
1hr 15mins and 2hrs. Tarnów is also served by some
30 or so trains every day from Kraków, with a journey
time of between 90 and 145 minutes depending on
whether you take a local or express train.
MARKETS
Located at the intersection of several trade routes,
Tarnów has been home to a large marketplace since
medieval times. In addition to the actual market square,
the city has had an open-air market just south of the
Rynek for centuries. Known locally as ‘the Burek,’ this
area actually extends for several blocks and includes
several small city squares and pavilions selling all
manner of goods, from food and ﬂowers to clothing
and cosmetics. Whatever it is, whether it’s worth
anything or not, you can get it at the Burek - and a trip
here is the quintessential Tarnów shopping experience.
The name ‘Burek’ oﬃcially refers to the fruit, produce,
meat and dairy market on Plac Bema which was
recently modernised - don’t miss the charming Organ
Grinder (pictured). Beyond it, however, you’ll also ﬁnd
the Hala Targowa (or ‘Hala Miejska’ as it’s also called)
clothing market as well as some rogue merchants
hawking their wares in the vicinity. All told it’s several
blocks of merchant sprawl, and probably more rubbish
than you’ve ever seen anywhere in one place before.
Have some change and small bills handy, as asking
the vendors to break a 100zł note is usually met with
disdain. Opening hours vary and some vendors open
and close as they please, but the general rule is to get
there early, as trade dries up by mid-afternoon.
April - May 2015
111
Tarnów
TOURIST INFORMATION
One of the most helpful oﬃces in PL, make this your ﬁrst
port of call on arrival. Here (and on their multi-lingual
website) you’ll ﬁnd a wide range of free information
on Tarnów and the surrounding region (including our
full Tarnów In Your Pocket mini-guide), free internet
(browse away), bike rental, souvenirs, and there’s even
accommodation available upstairs. If you’re interested
in a gadget-led tour, the number of apps and audio
tours they can provide is quite staggering. With friendly,
knowledgeable and enthusiastic English-speaking staﬀ,
drop in and don’t be shy.QRynek 7, tel. (+48) 14 688
90 90, www.tarnow.travel. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 17:00; closed Sun. From May open 08:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
RYNEK & THE OLD TOWN
Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets
and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways
from a lower, surrounding loop (formerly the city walls
and defensive towers), Tarnów’s exemplary Old Town
began life in the 14th century, although most of what
now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is
the Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four
sides by ﬁne Renaissance merchant houses dating from
the 16th to the 18th century.
At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a
lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in
the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th
century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped oﬀ
with an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which Tarnów’s
‘hejnał’ - a short traditional melody - is played every day
at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Cracovian cousin, the
Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a good
investigation, and includes a fairly well preserved Jewish
quarter to the east, one remaining defensive tower and a
pleasant pedestrian street, hugging its northern edge and
featuring several interesting buildings as well as a number
of monuments. In the spring and summer the Rynek
comes to life with tables and chairs from the multitude of
cafes and bars (and surprisingly few restaurants) lining it
and has a warm and welcoming appeal.
112 Kraków In Your Pocket
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
As well as highlighting local
ethnographic traditions, this
better than average collection
includes a large celebration
of Roma (Gypsy) culture,
which is allegedly the only
such collection in Europe. A
truly fascinating, if slightly
dated, exhibition tracing
Roma culture in Poland from
its beginnings in the 15th
century to their fate at the
hands of the Nazis and beyond, the three rooms that
make up the exhibition include some excellent maps,
models, costumes and photographs, all of which are best
seen with the aid of a small and very good booklet, The
Gypsies, written by the museum’s curator Adam Bartosz
and available in English for just 3zł. There are still about 350
Roma living in the Tarnów area, and their culture is still very
much alive. In the museum’s back garden you’ll ﬁnd several
traditionally painted gypsy caravans.Qul. Krakowska 10,
tel. (+48) 14 622 06 25, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open
09:00 - 15:00, Tue 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon, Sat. From May open 09:00 - 17:00; Wed, Fri 09:00
- 15:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Admission 8/5zł, family
ticket 15zł; Sun free. N
TOWN HALL MUSEUM (RATUSZ)
Worth a visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this
extraordinary collection over two ﬂoors includes glass,
porcelain, silver, weaponry, and the most extensive
collection of 18th-century Sarmatian portraits in the
country. Sarmatism, if you’re wondering, was a beguiling
infusion of lifestyle, culture and ideology that predominated
the Polish nobility from the 17th to 19th century. Based on
the mistaken and rather amusing belief that Poles were
descended from a loose confederation of ancient Iranian
tribes, Polish Sarmatism evolved over the centuries from a
set of values based on paciﬁsm into a full-blown warrior
philosophy that endorsed horseback riding, outrageous
behaviour and a propensity for lavish Oriental clothing
and huge, handlebar moustaches. The Town Hall Tower
can also be ascended if arranged ahead of time, and oﬀers
panoramic views for an extra 10zł.QRynek 1, tel. (+48) 14
621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00,
Tue 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sat.
From May open 09:00 - 17:00; Wed, Fri 09:00 - 15:00; Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Admission 8/5zł, family ticket 15zł,
Sun free for permanent exhibition. UN
MUSEUM TICKETS
Note that all Tarnów museums are free on Sundays,
while on other days of the week a special sweetheart
ticket good for the Town Hall, District Museum, and
Ethnography Museum is available for only 16/10zł.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Tychy
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Although the ubiquitous Tyskie beer has become one of
the most recognisable Polish exports (not to mention the
reigning king of domestic brews for almost 200 years), few
visitors to Poland realise its name is actually derived from
the very Silesian town it has been brewed in since the
17th century: Tychy. Though not exactly next door, this
now-thriving Silesian suburb has a lot to oﬀer curious daytrippers, potential investors and vacationers alike.
The rather curious Polish name of Tychy (German ‘Tichau’)
is derived from the Polish word cichy or ‘quiet.’ Tychy was
indeed nothing more than a sleepy village from the time it
ﬁrst appeared on a medieval map in the mid-15th century
until well into the 17th century. It was then that the lords
of beer arrived and deemed this land worthy to be brewed
upon (they were literally lords as well). And thus the Browar
Książęce [K’shown’zhen-tse] began its illustrious 400 year
mission to provide beer to the huddled masses (ok, mostly
just for themselves at the beginning). As the brewery grew,
so did Tychy. By the time of German occupation during
WWII, Tyskie had grown to be the biggest brewery of its
kind in Europe. Operations resumed after the war, and large
scale investment by the Polish State (The Party liked to
drink as well) ensured that the Tyskie empire continued to
expand during Communism. This is also when Tychy started
to ﬁrst become known as somewhat of a socialist workers’
paradise. The massive workforce employed at the brewery
were treated relatively well in the 60’s and 70’s; sporting
complexes were built, and a beach and docks constructed
114 Kraków In Your Pocket
on the bucolic Lake Paprocany (Jeziora Paprocańskie).
To ﬁnd out more about the city’s beer-entwined history,
visit the Tyskie Brewery which also houses the local City
Museum.
Modern-day Tychy is of course still tied to its long and
storied brewing tradition as the Tyskie Brewery continues
to pump out millions of hectolitres of beer a year and
now exports all over the world. All the while, the city is
making itself an increasingly attractive destination for both
business and recreation. The area’s post-industrial potential
can be found in the Obywatelski Brewery - a former
Tyskie production facility which is today being converted
into a modern business, recreation and entertainment
complex. Lake Paprocany oﬀers endless fun for amateur
and professional sailors, swimmers and sun bathers. Most
recently the city broke ground on what will be the biggest
year-round Water Park Complex in all of Poland. The city
also has a full cultural calendar so plan your trip accordingly
and enjoy exploring the area.
TYSKIE BREWERY (TYSKIE BROWARY KSIĄŻĘCE)
The Tyskie Browary Książęce, in the town of Tychy (German
Tichau) some 10km south of Katowice has been brewing beer
continuously for nearly 400 years. And because of its Silesian
location it has witnessed a number of historic events over the
years with its own history reﬂecting that of the region. The
originally German-owned brewery now produces the famous
Tyskie Gronie, Poland’s best selling beer, and Tyskie Browary
Książęce’s (or just Tyskie) impressive ensemble of buildings
also includes a superb little museum which is open to the
public for tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a friendly
and informative, English-speaking guide, the Tyskie tour
takes visitors through the entire brewing process. Starting in
the immaculately preserved Old Brewery, a masterpiece of
original decorative tiles and old copper vats installed during
WWI that have had modern brewing equipment cleverly put
inside them, the tour follows the brewing process from start
to ﬁnish and also oﬀers a fascinating insight into the history
of the factory. Highlights include the so-called Bachelors’
Quarters and the saucy tales that go with them, a glimpse
of the brewery’s own railway station and, across the road,
a look inside the fabulously fragrant bottling plant. Now
producing over 8,000,000 hectolitres of booze annually (or
to put it another way, if you put all that beer into half litre
bottles and laid them end to end you’d have a line of beer
80,000km long), the rise of the brewery is recorded inside the
superb Brewery Museum, complete with interactive displays
in English and housed inside a red brick neo-Gothic church
built in 1902. Tours must be booked in advance, and yes,
there’s a tasting session at the end. The tours are conducted
in Polish, English, German, Spanish, French, Italian, Czech,
Russian and in the local Silesian dialect (if you ever wanted to
hear what that might sound like). The museum building also
houses the local City Museum, which is well worth having
a look inside if you’ve got the time, while the town itself is
also worth exploring to properly cap your trip to Tychy. There
is also currently an exhibit about the brewery’s history, beer
culture in general (who knew?) and the company as a whole.
Qul. Katowicka 9, Tychy, tel. (+48) 32 327 84 30, www.
tyskiebrowarium.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Last
entrance 2.5 hours before closing. Visitors must be over
18 and should call in advance to book a place on the tour.
Admission 15/10zł.
GETTING TO TYCHY
The easiest way to get to Tychy from Kraków is by car
and the 85km journey will take about an hour and a half.
Alternatively you go by train which involves a change in
Katowice and takes about three hours. The brewery is a
short walk southeast from Tychy train station.
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April - May 2015
115
Leisure
Leisure
WATER EQUIPMENT RENTAL
Water equipment rental for a variety of sports and
persuasions, including a 12-person catamaran and 4-person
motorboats. Canoe and kayak rental (20zł/hr), as well as
4-person pedalos (30zł/hr). Kayaking tours also organised.
QH-3, SKS Nadwiślańska Marina near ul. Kościuszki 16,
tel. (+48) 606 22 55 55, www.zeglugawkrakowie.pl.
Open from May, 10:00 - 18:00.
ADRENALINE SPORTS
BOWLING & BILLIARDS
PLAC NOWY 1
Located in the basement of a modern building right on
Plac Nowy, this is the nicest bowling alley in Kraków. With
only six lanes, the space is intimate rather, so reservations
are wise. The bar puts an emphasis on regional Polish
microbrews, and you can order food from the restaurant
upstairs. Prices for one lane for one hour (max 8 people) are
55, 75 or 95zł depending on the day of the week and time
of day.QD-6, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 11, www.
placnowy1.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
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While drinking in cafes and beer gardens is probably
the number one local leisure activity, our Leisure section
is geared more for those looking for outdoor activities
on a beautiful day, or how to stay active on an ugly
one. Generally, Cracovians are spoiled with recreation
opportunities, if only for the fact that the Old Town is
a joy to stroll around when the sun is out and features
several unique green spaces, particularly the Planty
and Błonia, the latter of which is home to an ice rink
in winter. Other highlights include Las Wolski (Wolski
Forest), which is home to Kościuszko and Piłsudski
Mounds, as well as the Zoo, and provides plenty of
hiking opportunities. Cracovians also love getting out
of town, whether it be short day-outings to Tyniec and
Ojców (both of which you can expect to be packed
on sunny weekends), or mountains excursions to the
Beskidy and Tatra ranges to the south. Zakopane is an
especially popular destination for skiing in winter and
hiking in the summer. Use the listings below to keep
active in every season.
BIKE RENTAL
CRUISING KRAKÓW
15-50zł for 3 hours; each additional hour 5-10zł - prices
depend of the type of bike rented. Bike tours also
arranged daily, no reservation necessary, just meet at the
Mickiewicz monument on the market square at 12:00.
QC-2, ul. Basztowa 17, tel. (+48) 514 55 60 17, www.
cruisingkrakow.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
116 Kraków In Your Pocket
KRK BIKE RENTAL
This small bike rental just oﬀ the market square rents
standard bikes for 8zł/hr, 45zł/day; tandems and bikes with
child seats also available.QB-3, ul. Św. Anny 4, tel. (+48)
510 58 00 55, www.krkbikerental.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
BOAT RENTAL
& RIVER CRUISES
In spring and summer the Wisła River is abuzz with all
manner of boats, gondolas and water trams. Along the
boulevards beneath Wawel Castle (B-6) you’ll encounter
barkers oﬀering short sightseeing cruises along Poland’s
longest waterway. Use them as an alternative way to reach
Podgórze, Tyniec Abbey or the foot of Las Wolski, or simply
as an enjoyable way to get a diﬀerent perspective on some
of Kraków’s sights. Most boats can also be hired privately.
THE STAGE
Probably Kraków’s most atmospheric billiards club, The
Stage is much more than just a pool hall and bar. In the
evenings this laid-back hangout often hosts events
including concerts (every Sunday), cabarets, and karaoke
with a live band as locals rack ‘em up on the seven handsome
billiards tables in front of the street-side windows.QB-1, ul.
Łobzowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 681 63 85, www.thestage.pl.
Open 13:00 - 01:00. Cost of a table ranges between 1523zł/hr depending on the time of day.
GOLF
ROYAL KRAKÓW GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB
A nine hole golf course located close to the Royal
Jagiellonian Hunting Grounds (Puszcza Niepołomicka)
18km east of Kraków. A clubhouse and restaurant overlook
the green, and the course is popular with both beginners
and experienced golfers.QOchmanów 124, Podłęże, tel.
(+48) 12 281 91 70, www.krakowgolf.pl. Open 09:00 17:00.
AQUA FUN
Regular river cruises between Bielany-Zwierzyniec and
Kazimierz abroad a stylish gondola (30mins, 20/15zł; 1hr,
30/25zł) or proper boat with refreshments and an upper
deck (1hr, 25/20zł). Both gondola and boat rides run from
10:00 to 18:00 approximately every half hour, however
rides don’t leave until a suﬃcient number of people are
on-board. All are speaker-equipped with an audio tour and
can be rented privately. Night cruises and private trips with
live folk or klezmer music can also be arranged in advance.
QB-6, Bulwar Czerwieński Marina (near Grunwaldzki
Bridge), tel. (+48) 604 29 90 00, www.rejsy.krakow.pl.
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WRT KARTING
Spin your wheels around this 250 metre indoor gokarting course north of Nowa Huta. You can get there
by hopping on bus 182 at the bus station (‘Dworzec
Główny Wschód’ stop) and getting oﬀ over 20 stops
later at ‘Nowolipki’ (note that you may have to request
this stop).Qul. Nowolipki 3 (entrance from ul.
Makuszynskiego, Bieńczyce), tel. (+48) 509 43 70 61,
www.wrt-karting.pl. Open 15:00 - 22:00, Fri 14:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
LASER PARK
Run amuck in the industrial wasteland around
Schindler’s Factory known as Zabłocie dodging laser
beams and zapping adversaries. Laser Arena uses a
computer system to register hits from the virtual bullets
in a safe, simulated gunﬁght within this highly unique
setting. Prices are complex and as follows: Mon-Thu
25/20zł for 30mins, 40/35zł for 60mins; Fri-Sun 35zł for
30mins, 55zł for 60mins. Groups (10 players minimum)
Mon-Thu 400zł, Fri-Sun 600zł.QI-4, ul. Zabłocie 20, tel.
(+48) 12 296 01 30, www.laserpark.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00
- 22:00.
NEW
TRAP KRAKÓW
‘Real life’ escape games are proving increasingly
popular, and Kraków is now included in Trap’s network
which stretches from Bogota Spain to Athens Greece.
If you aren’t familiar, the idea is you and your friends
are imprisoned somewhere (usually under extreme
circumstances) and have to use your wits and the clues
in the room to break free within a certain amount of
time; basically it’s a fun way to challenge your brain
while pretending to live a life of high drama. At the
moment Trap Kraków only has one game - ‘The Bomb
Room,’ in which you have to ﬁnd and disarm bombs
before escaping the room - but a second game should
be ready by summer. Games are designed for 2-6
people and the price ranges from 90-140zł depending
how many are in your group.QC-5, Św. Gertrudy
19/11, tel. (+48) 504 85 43 18, www.trapkrakow.
com. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
April - May 2015
117
Leisure
BŁONIA MEADOW
Leisure
OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS
AEROPLATFORM
If you fancy a slightly more adrenaline-pumping way
to a panoramic view, take a scenic lift in this massive
balloon tethered to the riverbank opposite Wawel
Castle. Rising to a height of up to 150 metres, you’ll have
about fifteen minutes to overcome your acrophobia
and snap some photos from what’s undeniably the best
viewpoint in Kraków. Whether it’s flying or not depends
on the weather conditions, so if you’re not sure, check
their website or call first.QB-7, Bulwar Wołyński, tel.
(+48) 511 80 22 02, www.hiflyer.pl. Open 11:00
till dusk. Admission: Mon-Fri 39/27zł, students
with proper ID 31zł, family ticket 105zł. Sat-Sun
46/32zł, family ticket 125zł (no student discounts on
weekends).
A massive and inexplicably undeveloped tract of
greenery directly west of the Old Town, the Błonia is
a huge, triangular open space measuring nearly 50
hectares. Technically a park, although lacking any trees
or other deﬁning characteristics, the Polish name ‘Błonie’
denotes a ‘meadow’ - something of an amiable linguistic
redressing of the Błonia’s true and unchanged historical
function: it’s a cow pasture. The area’s ability to survive
to modern times as the largest city centre open space
in Europe can be credited to a perfect storm of boggy
undesirability, a centuries-long ownership dispute, and
ﬁnally a medieval legislative wrinkle. Used by locals to
graze cattle even midway into the 20th century, when
the now-defunct Cracovia Hotel was built next to it in
1965 the city moved to permanently ban unfashionable
bovines from the Błonia, only to ﬁnd themselves
obstructed by an apparently still legally binding 14th
century decree by Queen Jadwiga which they would
have to sort out with Warsaw. Warsaw not being the
most cooperative or expedient bureaucratic partner in
those times, city council decided to stick with the status
quo, making it perfectly acceptable for you to air old
Bessie on the Błonia to this day. Though a great idea
for a city-wide one day annual event (called ‘Bovines
on the Błonia’ - make it happen, Mr. Mayor), these days
the green triangle has primarily become the favourite
leisure space of dogs and their frisbee chasing, ball
playing owners, while the perimeter is a popular track
for cycling, running and roller-blading; in winter it hosts
cross-country skiers and an ice rink. Protected as a
National Heritage Site since 2000, the Błonia is ideal for
large-scale outdoor events, hosting numerous concerts,
rallies and - most notably - historic open air masses by
the Pope during his visits to Kraków.QG-3.
118 Kraków In Your Pocket
BOTANICAL GARDEN
Covering almost 10 hectares, Poland’s oldest botanical
gardens date from 1783 and oﬀer a decidedly relaxing
daytime escape from the city. Extensive ﬂora-ﬁlled paths
wind between fountains, herb and rose gardens, lilypadded ponds, and a 250-year-old oak tree - the last
remnant of primeval forests which once covered the entire
region. A humid greenhouse (open 10:00 - 18:00, closed
Fri) hides all manner of exotic ﬂora, including a macabre
collection of carnivorous plants, while a series of outdoor
classical music concerts takes place in the warmer months.
A great place for a romantic rendezvous or ﬁnding some
peace and quiet.QJ-2, ul. Kopernika 27, tel. (+48) 12
663 36 35, www.ogrod.uj.edu.pl. Open from April
12, 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 7/4zł; 14zł family ticket available on
weekends. N
STANISŁAW LEM SCIENCE GARDEN
A
fun,
interactive,
educational park for kids
named after late, local sciﬁ author Stanisław Lem.
The 7 hectare science park
features diﬀerent stations
engaging kids in optical
illusions and the laws of
physics. Recent additions include a geological garden, a
garden of fragrances and a labyrinth. Explanations at each
station are in English and Polish, and guides (English) are
available for an additional 25zł if you call three days in
advance. Reserve 90 minutes to visit the park in its entirety
and get there via trams 1 or 14, getting oﬀ at the ‘M-1/Al.
Pokoju’ stop; alternatively, a cab from the centre is about
25zł.QAl. Pokoju 68 (Czyżyny), tel. (+48) 12 346 12 85,
www.ogroddoswiadczen.pl. Open from April 22nd
08:30 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł, children
under 7 free. Family ticket 25zł. Combined ticket for
the Science Garden and the City Engineering Museum
15/10zł. Cash only. Y
krakow.inyourpocket.com
SPA & BEAUTY
CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE
Improve blood and limphatic
circulation, release physical and mental
tension, strengthen the immune
system, improve joint ﬂexibility and
remove toxins from your body with
an authentic Thai massage, performed
solely by highly qualiﬁed Thai
masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The
oﬀer includes classical Thai massage, herbal compresses,
oil massages, feet and legs reﬂexology, back, shoulder
and head massages, and more. Receive a 10% discount
when you present In Your Pocket.QE-4, ul. Dietla 103/2,
tel. (+48) 12 422 65 49, www.tajskimasaz.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. Massages 100-300zł.
NEW
HAMMAM SHAHRAZAD
This traditional Turkish bathhouse is the only place of its
kind in Poland. In pleasant temperatures of 37-42 degrees
Centigrade, fresh ingredients and traditional Ottoman-era
techniques are used to massage, relax and cleanse the
body in the upstairs hammam (reservations required). For
the full ‘satisﬁed sultan’ experience, follow up your bath
with authentic Middle Eastern cuisine and shisha pipes
in the ground ﬂoor restaurant.QA-4, ul. Smoleńsk 21,
tel. (+48) 511 74 72 82, www.hammamszeherezada.pl.
Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00.
VANILLA SPA
This luxurious spa in the centre of the ﬁve-star Niebieski
Hotel is a palace of pampering for your mind and body
thanks to a variety of holistic treatments in relaxing
environs. Spoil your skin through a series of peels and
masks using top of line cosmetics and munch on organic
‘bio snacks’ courtesy of the Vanilla Sky restaurant between
trips to the sauna, steam bath, and massage tables. Walk
in for a free consultation to have the on-hand hands-on
experts create your own personal care programme.QH-4,
ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski & SPA), tel. (+48) 12
297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
SWIMMING & DIVING
KRAKÓW WATER PARK (PARK WODNY)
With 800 metres of water slides, dragon and pirate play
areas, massage fountains, climbing walls, wave machines,
swings and other in-water activities, this incredible aquatic
playground is the thing your kid will remember most about
Kraków. You won’t have such a bad time yourself with
access to saunas, jacuzzis, ﬁtness and wellness centres
and a pool-side cafe from which you can watch your little
terrors try to dunk each other. Prices range from 19-25zł for
one hour, and 40-58zł for day access.QL-1, ul. Dobrego
Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 90, www.parkwodny.
pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
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KRAKÓW BEACH
Featuring 10,000 metres of sand spread out across a
stretch of the riverbank on the Dębniki side between
Grunwaldzki Bridge (B-7) and the Forum Hotel (I-4),
Krakow Plaża (beach) has become a popular family
destination when the sun is out. Terriﬁc views of Wawel
Castle form the backdrop to a multi-faceted venue which
oﬀers dozens of beach chairs, beach volleyball courts,
a large playground for kids, and even a 25 by 8 metre
swimming pool hollowed into the hull of a boat docked
just oﬀshore. Throughout the day pick up a cocktail or
iced coﬀee from the attached open-air cafe-bar or a
meal at the surprisingly good restaurant, Plaża Kraków.
After the sun goes down, Plaża Kraków turns into more
of a cocktail lounge, and on weekends DJs create a clublike atmosphere. Life’s a beach.QI-4, ul. Ludwinowska
2, tel. (+48) 530 95 03 03, www.plazakrakow.com.pl.
Open from April 18 (exact hours undetermined at
press time). Swimming pool 20zł/per hour. Volleyball
courts should be booked in advance between 11:00
and 20:00, after which they are free.
April - May 2015
119
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ALCOHOL
Nothing says, ‘I’ve been to Poland’ like a suitcase of vodka (and
maybe a dodgy moustache). The Poles have been distilling and
draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can
make a legitimate claim as the spirit’s primordial homeland. As
such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if
it’s not to your taste. You can’t walk a block in this city without
passing a church and an alcohol shop, so you’ve your choice
of temples. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands you’ll
ﬁnd in fancy gift sets, but don’t miss Żubrówka (bison grass
vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka) and Żołądkowa
Gorzka (bitter stomach vodka). That’s quite a shopping list.
SZAMBELAN
A huge selection of special vodkas, meads and Polish
absinthes decanted from enormous Erlenmeyer ﬂasks. The
exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts which they can
ship for you, or go ghetto fab by reﬁlling a plastic bottle and
stuﬃng it in your luggage (or strolling the Planty). Sample
ﬁrst, sample often.QC-3, ul. Gołębia 2 (entrance from ul.
Bracka 9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.pl.
Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
AMBER
Spring
Spr
ing fa
fashi
shions in Ventunoo Bou
Boutiq
tiqque,
ue,, paagee 123
233.
WHAT TO BUY IN POLAND
ALCOHOL: Vodka is a given and alcohol shops are
in plentiful supply, but try the ﬂavourful infusions at
Szambelan (p.121), or miód pitny (mead) if the straight
stuﬀ isn’t to your taste.
AMBER: Though far from the Baltic Sea, Kraków was a
major stop on the Amber Road and you’ll ﬁnd jewellery
made from this fossilised resin all over town (p.121).
BOLESŁAWIEC POTTERY: The hand-painted folk
patterns of Poland’s popular ceramic brand are beloved
internationally and make a great gift for anyone with a
kitchen. Head to Dekor Art (p.123).
FOODSTUFFS: The Poles absolutely love putting food
into jars and the best place to pick up handsomely
packed local delicacies is Krakowski Kredens (p.124).
GRAPHIC ART: PL has a rich tradition of graphic art,
and Kraków’s poster gallery - Galeria Plakatu (p.122) is a great place to peruse and purchase it.
LITERATURE: Kraków is a UNESCO City of Literature,
and boasts Massolit (p.122) - one of the best Englishlanguage bookshops in Central Europe, with a great
selection of Polish literature, as well tomes on Polish
history and Jewish Studies.
120 Kraków In Your Pocket
While Kraków can hardly be considered a shoppers’
paradise in the traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes
it a great place to pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery.
Areas of note include Kazimerz and the open air markets particularly Plac Targowy (E-4), while the Cloth Hall (open
roughly 09:00 - 20:00, C-3) in the middle of the market
square is obvious for typical local souvenirs. For the generic
western experience you can hit one of the shopping
malls we list, however throughout this section we’ve
made a concentrated eﬀort to focus not on recognised,
international brands and franchises, but unique, homegrown businesses; so we encourage you to put your money
where their mouth is. As this is PL, remember many shops
close early on Saturday and take Sunday oﬀ altogether.
Herbal vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland.
Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and
coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without
bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself
a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin is the Cloth
Hall (open 09:00 - 20:00) in the centre of the market square,
where prices are surprisingly competitive, or visit any of the
many galleries around the Old Town.
AMBER MUSEUM & LABORATORY
QC-3, ul. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 513 51 15 12, www.
ambermuseum.eu. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
WORLD OF AMBER
Also at ul. Floriańska 13 and 22 (C-3), and ul. Powiśle 7 (A-5,
Sheraton Kraków).QC-4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12 430
21 14, www.worldofamber.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
The Global Blue Card
Your Passport to Great Savings,
The World Over (more information at gb’s website)
PLAC NOWY
This historic square was a Jewish market in the
pre-war days, with its rotunda serving as a kosher
slaughterhouse. Today you’ll still ﬁnd butcher shops
inside, while fast food windows line the exterior. In
the open trading stalls surrounding the roundhouse
produce and junk are sold daily, but in the mornings
you never know what you’ll ﬁnd: Saturdays are generally
reserved for antiques and Sundays for clothing, while
Tuesday and Friday mornings it’s a full-on pigeon fair
(get there early, it’s usually over by 09:00). Markets
begin around 07:00 and generally end by early to
mid-afternoon, depending. In the evenings, Plac Nowy
turns into one of the best drinking destinations in town,
lined with atmospheric bars.QD-6, tel. (+48) 12 422
25 59, www.placnowy.pl.
PLAC TARGOWY UNITARG
Known locally as ‘Hala Targowa,’ this is the city’s best
outdoor market. Open every day with everything
from fruit, ﬂowers and produce to pirated DVDs,
dodgy underwear and cheap wristwatches, Sunday is
undoubtedly the best day of the week at Hala Targowa,
when it becomes a sprawling full-blown ﬂea market
of Old World antiques, Catholic icons, village detritus,
vinyl records, war memorabilia, mismatched shoes,
stolen bikes and pretty much anything you can dream
of at negotiable prices. Diﬀerent vendors set their own
hours, but on weekends most are here shortly after
dawn and packing up between 15:00 and 16:00; on
weekdays about 18:00. At night on Plac Targowy you’ll
ﬁnd two 24-hour alcky shops and the best grilled
kielbasa in town (open 20:00 - 03:00, closed Sun), sold
from a van.QE-4, ul. Grzegórzecka, tel. (+48) 12 429
61 55, www.unitarg.krakow.pl.
STARY KLEPARZ
A tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered
marketplace just north of the Barbican oﬀers bargain
prices and the best selection in the city for local
produce, fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices,
socks, sweaters and whatever oddball commodities
are the order of the day during your visit.QC/D-1,
Rynek Kleparski 20, tel. (+48) 12 634 15 32, www.
starykleparz.com. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00.
1. You are a non-EU traveler
2. In the shop you spent a minimum of 200 PLN
3. You export the purchased goods
outside of the EU
YOU CAN USE THE TAX FREE
SHOPPING SERVICE
www.globalblue.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
MARKETS
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April - May 2015
121
Shopping
Shopping
ART & ANTIQUES
CLOTH HALL (SUKIENNICE)
Your best and easiest bet for gifts in Kraków. Essentially the
world’s oldest shopping mall, inside this architectural marvel
in the middle of the market square you’ll ﬁnd dozens of stalls
selling amber jewellery, lacework, cloth handicrafts, wood
carvings, sheepskin rugs and all sorts of Polish souvenirs and
trinkets at prices that are actually more reasonable than you’d
anticipate.QC-3, Rynek Główny 1/3. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
Art market on ul. Pijarska (C-2)
MASSOLIT
The best English-language bookstore in Central Europe,
owing in large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With
books on all subjects and specialising in Polish, East
European and Jewish literature in English, here you’ll
also ﬁnd recent English language periodicals (store
copies) to peruse over coﬀee and a slice of pie, or even
a glass of wine. Stocked with remaindered books from
the States, the selection is surprisingly good, and the
prices are the best you’ll ﬁnd anywhere. This legendary
establishment has been long-running but constantly
needs and deserves support. Still if you’re on a budget
you can trade the novel you ﬁnished on the train for
credit towards a new one. Also look for their bakery
nearby at ul. Smolensk 17 (A-4).QA-4, ul. Felicjanek
4, tel. (+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
122 Kraków In Your Pocket
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
Art abounds in Kraków, and in addition to the galleries
proliferating the Old Town, local artists shop their work
to tourists right on the market square, and along ul.
Pijarska on either side of the Floriańska Gate (C/D-2).
Remember, if you are taking original art that is more than
50 years old and of a potentially high value, you’ll need the
proper paperwork and permissions. Most proper dealers
can provide this straight-away, but you may want to
check before opening your wallet. Below we list the most
interesting commercial art galleries in town; see the Culture
section for more cultural art gallery listings.
There is no shortage of possibilities for purchasing antiques
in Kraków. Serious shoppers will ﬁnd that the best items
end up in the antique stores (‘Antyki,’ ‘Antykwariat’) that
abound all over Kazimierz and the Old Town with one
of the best places to prowl for lost treasure being ulica
Józefa (D/E-6) in Kazimierz. Knowledgeable dealers oﬀer
prices comparable to those in the rest of Europe, however
there are still bargains aplenty in the city’s markets if your
interest is more in ﬁnding an odd souvenir while having a
unique cultural experience than ﬁnding an undervalued
19th century artefact. Plac Nowy (D-6) is home to daily
junk-peddlers, but the real bounty is revealed during Plac
Targowy’s Sunday morning ﬂea market (E-4) where every
piece of trash has a price and haggling is compulsory.
ANDRZEJ MLECZKO GALLERY
These anti-establishment, often blasphemous, damn funny
cartoons by Poland’s favourite cartoonist and Kraków native
Andrzej Mleczko are bound to remind you of someone you
know. Ideal for Polish friends and family, but many of the
cartoons are universal enough to make great presents
and souvenirs for anyone on your list, and can be bought
as original prints, or printed on mugs, shirts, bedding sets,
posters and more.QC-2, ul. Św. Jana 14, tel. (+48) 12 421
71 04, www.sklep.mleczko.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
GALERIA PLAKATU (POSTER GALLERY)
Poland has a proud tradition of graphic poster art for ﬁlm
and theatre. Here you can browse binders of designs for
diﬀerent plays, various propaganda and alternative ﬁlm
posters you never knew existed for your favourite ﬂicks.
Many are in stock and many more available to order. They
make fantastic gifts and keepsakes, or go cheap by buying
a stack of unusual postcards.QC-3, ul. Stolarska 8-10, tel.
(+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergallery.com.
Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
DEKOR ART
If you’re not familiar with this well-loved folk ceramic brand,
head here straightaway to get introduced. Crammed full
of colourful tableware with simple, hand-painted and
highly-recognisable folk motifs, this bargain shop is sure
to help you make someone on your list happy.QC-2, ul.
Sławkowska 11, tel. (+48) 515 45 29 69. Open 10:00 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
KACPER RYX
One of Kraków’s most interesting gift stores, this small
“historical shop” skips the kitsch, instead oﬀering a wide
variety of high-quality, hand-made, history-based craft work.
Enter via the same door as the Hipolit House museum, and
step into what a gift shop may have looked like centuries ago,
if there were such a thing: shelves and tables stocked with
swords, armour and weaponry; leather ﬂasks, pouches and
bags; historical wood-prints and archaeological replicas; beer
steins, goblets and pottery; cowls, dresses and other medieval
apparel. Prices are fair and items are nicer than much of
what you’ll ﬁnd in the Cloth Hall. Recommended.QC-3, Pl.
Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 426 45 49, www.kacperryx.pl.
Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
ROCK SHOP
You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe
and is there anything which says ‘I’ve been there’ more than
a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘Kraków’ one to
add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite
St. Mary’s Basilica. Classic white costs 99zł, black costs 115zł.
QC-3, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11
55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
DEKOR ART
FASHION & ACCESSORIES
FORUM MODY
Intent on familiarising yourself with cutting edge Polish
fashion design? This large boutique on the ground
ﬂoor of the ultra-hip Forum Hotel is the real deal. Here
you’ll ﬁnd over 50 stalls exclusively showcasing Polish
designers and brands, including clothing, jewellery,
accessories and home design. An added bonus is
the adjacent Forum Przestrzenie bar and restaurant,
where you’ll ﬁnd many of these projects being worn
by the urban hipsters that populate the place.QI-4, ul.
Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 604 05 64 77. Open 11:00
- 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
IDEA FIX CONCEPT STORE
The ‘idea’ here is promoting contemporary, young,
independent Polish artists and designers - and for once
we’re not talking about painted angels or folk pottery. This
shop is straight Soho (NYC) with an alternative urban chic
style and attitude that will hopefully encourage Kraków’s
hundreds of DJs to pick up their duds somewhere other
than H&M. Championing sustainable consumption, drop
in this expansive and sexy 230m2 concept store just oﬀ
Plac Wolnica to check out clothing and accessories by
independent local designers, Polish ﬁlms and music,
Polish ﬁbre arts, interior design and more.QE-7, ul.
Bocheńska 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 12 46, www.ideafix.pl.
Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
SŁOŃ TORBALSKI
Makers of unique, handmade leather handbags since
1997, the name of this popular local brand is based on
wordplay from a beloved Polish childrens’ story. Tourists
will appreciate not only the quality, but especially the
Folk Collection based on traditional Małopolska folk
art - another reason why Słoń Torbalski has represented
Kraków at numerous European fashion fairs. Also at ul.
Kamieńskiego 11 (Bonarka City Centre) and ul. Stawowa
61 (Galeria Bronowice).QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 4, tel.
(+48) 12 421 66 26, www.slontorbalski.pl. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
VENTUNO BOUTIQUE
This small Old Town fashion boutique features select
Italian clothing brands, shoes and boots, belts,
handbags and other stylish accessories.QC-2, ul. Św.
Tomasza 9, tel. (+48) 530 96 42 20. Open 10:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
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April - May 2015
123
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FOOD & SWEETS
CRACOW CHOCOLATE FACTORY
Wall-length street-front windows with a view into
the Wonka-esque workshop lure tourists inside this
enormous 2-ﬂoor old-school chocolatier that includes
an immaculate shop/showroom and upstairs cafe. With
delicious handmade treats in every direction - truﬄes,
pralines, chocolate bars, postcards, ﬁgurines and more Cracow Chocolate Factory perfectly captures that ‘kid in a
candyshop’ excitement, and is great for dodging the rain,
spoiling the sweet tooth of a date or picking up souvenirs.
QB-3, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48) 502 09 07 65, www.
chocolate.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
DELIKATESY 13
Located in the basement of Kraków’s nicest most central
shopping mall, this Italian delicatessen oﬀers a wide range
of high-quality edible goods including over 100 varieties of
Italian cheese and meats, parma ham, truﬄes, cooking oils
and balsamic vinagrettes, as well as delicious locally-made
preservative free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and cakes
are also made daily. With the sheer volume of outstanding
goods, Delikatesy 13 is probably one of the most dangerous
places you can take your wallet when you’re hungry.QC-3,
Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27,
www.lhr.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
KOPERNIK
A traditional dating back to the 15th century, Toruń
gingerbread is world-renowned and you can purchase
their range of novelty sweets in Kraków at this enticing
shop.QC-4, ul. Grodzka 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 13 06,
www.kopernik.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00.
KRAKOWSKI KREDENS
An old-fashioned dry goods store of expensive, yet
exquisite, Galician delicacies - including jams, honeys,
liquors, cured meats, candies and pickled things. This
is the perfect place to pick up handsomely packaged,
unequivocally Cracovian consumable goodies, and, when
available, a warm roll with their sliced pork and mustard
from the street-side window is actually a gourmet street
food bargain at only 5-9zł (depending on weight). Also in
Galeria Krakowska and the airport.QC-3, ul. Grodzka 7, tel.
(+48) 696 49 00 12, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
SHOPPING MALLS
BONARKA CITY CENTER
Located just beyond the limits of the IYP map (imaginary
coordinates K-6), Bonarka City Center is home to 91,000
square metres of retail space with 240 shops including
Auchan, Leroy Merlin, Media Expert and 237 others, 20
restaurants and cafes, the largest cinema complex in the
city and 3,200 free parking spaces. Built on the site of a
former chemical plant - the iconic smokestack of which
124 Kraków In Your Pocket
krakow.inyourpocket.com
remains - the heart of this ‘city within a city’ features eight
two-storey palm trees ﬂanking a fountain under a glass
ceiling. To reach this commercial Xanadu, take buses 144,
173, 179 or 184 getting oﬀ at the ‘Bonarka’ stop.Qul.
Kamieńskiego 11 (Podgórze), tel. (+48) 12 298 60 00,
www.bonarkacitycenter.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
FACTORY OUTLET
15 minutes from the city centre, this outlet mall features
120 foreign and domestic brands - including Levi’s,
Reserved, Calzedonia, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen,
Solar, Simple, , Sinsay, Pepe Jeans and more - at 30-70%
oﬀ the prices you’d expect elsewhere. You can get there by
catching a free bus from Grunwaldzki Bridge (B-7) or Rondo
Matecznego (I-5).Qul. Rożańskiego 32, Modlniczka, tel.
(+48) 12 297 35 00, krakow.factory.pl. Open 10:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA KAZIMIERZ
Opened in 2005, Galeria Kazimierz is still the most likeable
shopping centre in town. GK boasts over 130 retail units
including media giants EMPiK and Euro RTV AGD, dozens
of fashion outﬁtters like H&M, Zara and Simple, cosmetic
specialists Sephora, revered jewellers W. Kruk and
Swarovski, the upscale Alma supermarket, real restaurant
ambience in Jeﬀ ’s American diner, plus plenty of quick
eating opportunities. For recreational needs GK also touts
a ten screen Cinema City complex, and a ﬁtness club. Easily
accessed on foot, those arriving by car have 1,600 paid
parking spaces to pick from.QJ-3, ul. Podgórska 34, tel.
(+48) 12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl. Open
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA KRAKOWSKA
If you arrived by train it’s unlikely you missed this place,
which has been sneakily incorporated into the new
train station, making it one of the most centrally located
shopping malls in Europe. Covering 60,000 square metres
over three ﬂoors, stores housed here include H&M,
Peek & Cloppenburg, electronics giant Saturn, Carrefour
supermarket and over 260 other retail units, 1400 parking
spaces, and a bustling food court area. The mall itself and
the large square in front of it are also home to frequent
exhibits and events, and have helped contribute to the
regeneration of the once-dodgy area.QD-1, ul. Pawia 5,
tel. (+48) 12 428 99 00, www.galeriakrakowska.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
PASAŻ 13
This gorgeous old Rynek townhouse was converted into a
snazzy shopping area in 2005 to become the ﬁrst branch
of the trademark Likus Concept Stores. Not your typical
shopping mall, Pasaż 13 has 17 designer shops for you to
peruse. You’ll also ﬁnd a ﬁne Italian delikatessen and bar (U
Louisa) in the cellar.QC-3, Rynek Główny 13, tel. (+48)
12 617 02 27, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 17:00. While all other shops in Pasaż 13 open at
11:00, Delikatesy 13 and Bar 13 are open from 09:00.
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
April - May 2015
125
Directory
Directory
CONSULATES & EMBASSIES
APTEKA DBAM O ZDROWIEQI-5, ul. Kalwaryjska
94, tel. (+48) 12 656 18 50, www.doz.pl.
DENMARKQB-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73
80, www.nordichouse.pl.
APTEKA POD OPATRZNOŚCIĄQB-2, ul. Karmelicka
23, tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.
FINLANDQB-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
24HR SHOPS
GERMANYQC-3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30
00, www.krakau.diplo.de.
CARREFOUR EXPRESSQD-6, ul. Dietla 40, tel. (+48)
801 20 00 00, www.carrefour.pl.
KEFIREKQD-2, ul. Szpitalna 38, tel. (+48) 12 426 46
90, www.kefirek.pl.
KEFIREKQA-1, ul. Karmelicka 47, tel. (+48) 12 631 79
20, www.kefirek.pl.
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
ICELANDQB-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
INSTYTUT FRANCUSKIQC-4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel.
(+48) 12 424 53 50, www.cracovie.org.pl.
JAPANQI-2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43
59, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp.
MEXICOQul. Wiedeńska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 12
638 05 58.
NORWAYQK-2, ul. Mosiężnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 633 03
76, www.amb-norwegia.pl.
RUSSIAQB-1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47,
www.rusemb.pl.
Currency exchange oﬃces (‘Kantor’) are easy to ﬁnd
in Kraków, but as with any international destination,
it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t
getting ﬂeeced. The general rule is you should never
change your money at city entry points, particularly at
the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help
put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve vetted
them for you and assembled a list of well-located
exchange oﬃces that won’t rip you oﬀ, and don’t take
a commission. In Kraków’s Old Town, you’ll ﬁnd kantors
all along ul. Floriańska (C-2/3), but it’s two streets over
on ul. Sławkowska (C-2) that you’ll ﬁnd better, more
competitive prices - this is the best place to go rate
hunting near the market square.
EUROKANTORQB-3, ul. Szewska 21, tel. (+48)
12 421 55 65. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
KANTORQD-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
KANTOR CFSQD-2, ul. Pawia 12, tel. (+48) 12 430
33 33. Open 24hrs.
KANTOR GROSZQC-2, ul. Sławkowska 4, tel. (+48)
12 421 78 22. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
126 Kraków In Your Pocket
SLOVAKIAQD-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425
49 70, www.cgcracow.mfa.sk.
SZPITAL UNIWERSYTECKI
QJ-2, ul. Kopernika 50, tel. (+48) 12 351 66 01, www.
su.krakow.pl.
POST OFFICES
POCZTA POLSKA
Located in a beautiful old building across from Galeria
Krakowska, between the Andel’s Hotel and the train station,
this is the only 24 hour post oﬃce in Kraków. Moneygram
international money transfers also available.QD/E-2, ul.
Lubicz 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 91 68, www.poczta-polska.pl.
Open 24hrs.
POCZTA POLSKA
Kraków’s main and most central post oﬃce. Packages can
now be sent from any window, you do not need to take a
queue ticket to buy stamps, and if disabled you get a free
pass to window 7.QD-4, ul. Westerplatte 20, tel. (+48) 12
421 03 48, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 07:30 - 21:00,
Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Violent protests in Legionowo
Teenage death
brings police
into question
MEDICOVER
Also ul. Bora Komorowskiego 25B (Prądnik Czerwony), ul.
Bobrzyńskiego 37 (Dębniki).QK-3, ul. Podgórska 36, tel.
(+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover.pl.
CHRIST THE KING CHURCH
English masses are held each Sunday at 10:30 in this
Evangelical church outside the Old Town.QK-2, ul.
Mogilska 43, tel. (+48) 509 50 16 39, www.kchk.pl.
DENTA-MED
QJ-4, ul. Na Zjeździe 13, tel. (+48) 12 259 80 00, www.
denta-med.com.pl. Open 24hrs..
DENTESTETICA
QJ-1, ul. Kamienna 21, tel. (+48) 887 05 05 83, www.
dentestetica.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
EMERGENCY ROOM
5 WOJSKOWY SZPITAL KLINICZNY
QI-1, ul. Wrocławska 1-3, tel. (+48) 12 630 81 40,
www.5wszk.com.pl.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Issue 10 (300)
ARS MEDICAQD-1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12
423 38 34, www.ars-medica.pl.
UKQul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00,
www.gov.uk/government/world/poland.
DENTISTS
Polish News
and
Entertainment
PRIVATE CLINICS
RELIGIOUS SERVICES
USAQC-3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00,
krakow.usconsulate.gov.
in Poland?
Friday 20th March 2015
SWEDENQB-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
UKRAINEQK-2, Al. Beliny-Prażmowskiego 4, tel. (+48)
12 429 60 66, www.plk.internetdsl.pl.
What’s going on
KUPA SYNAGOGUE
Jewish services held regularly.QD-6, ul. Warszauera 8
(entrance from Miodowa 27), tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11,
www.krakow.jewish.org.pl.
ST. BARBARA’S
Holy Mass in German each Sunday at 14:30.QC-3, Mały
Rynek 8, tel. (+48) 12 428 15 00, www.swbarbara.jezuici.
pl.
ST. FRANCIS’ BASILICA
Masses in Italian held every Sunday at 15:30. Masses in
Spanish held every second Sunday of the month at 14:30.
QC-4, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76,
www.franciszkanska.pl.
ST. GILES CHURCH
Holy Mass in English each Sunday at 10:30.QC-5, ul.
Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl.
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
T
hirteen people were arrested after
violent clashes on the streets of Legionowo on Monday evening following the recent death of a teenage boy.
Approximately 300 protesters gathered
in the town’s centre - located just 23 km
from Warsaw - and trouble soon broke
out with a number of people throwing
stones, firecrackers and other missiles.
At least one officer was hit in the face
with a flying bottle, reports TVN24. In
addition to this, a further five were also
injured.
“The trouble began when a group of
several dozen thugs and hooligans, who
were separate from the rest of the protesters,
began looking for a fight with those in
charge,” Mariusz Mrozek, a spokesman
for the Metropolitan Police, told reporters.
“A gang of aggressive people then started
coming towards the police cars and we had
to take steps to restore order.”
The protests were sparked by the death
on Monday March 10, of a local teenage
boy. Initial reports state that 19-year-old
Rafal died as a result of choking on a bag
of drugs - most likely marijuana. Rafal’s
parents however have accused the police of
contributing to their son’s death and have
questioned their actions. “Why was this
policeman holding his throat? So he could
not swallow? It was not until he saw that
something was going on that he began to
© tvn24
24HR PHARMACIES
Locals have blamed the police for the incident which saw a 19-year choke to death
try and resuscitate him,” Justyna Krasicka,
the boy’s mother has since stated.
The station reports that politicians Janusz
Korwin-Mikke (head of the Coalition for
the Renewal of the Republic - Freedom
and Hope (KORWIN) and Przemyslaw
Wipler (who made news last year following
allegations that he had been a victim of
police brutality) were both present at the
protest.
“You must stop treating people like
cattle ... As President I will change the
constitution so the state does not punish
people for the possession of any substance,”
said Mr Korwin-Mikke. “The victim Rafal
might not have died in vain as he could be
the force behind a changing of the law.”
The case is being investigated by a
Warsaw Prosecutor’s Office to explain
how the boy died. It appears that the boy
tried to swallow evidence of possession of
a small amount of marijuana and choked
in the process.
“As is clear from the opinion of a
medical expert from the Institute of
Forensic Medicine in Warsaw, the death
of Rafal was caused by the aspiration of a
foreign body into the airways (a package
with dimensions of 2.5cm x 1.8cm x
0.8cm was discovered in the lower part of
the trachea), resulting in acute respiratory
failure” Renata Mazur from the Warsaw
District Prosecutor’s Office in Praga told
reporters.
Jewellery
Ua^\ 2[^cWX]VUa^\%
5^^S3aX]ZUa^\&
www.gdansk.findlocalgift.com
1^^ZbUa^\ $
Get a round-up of the
major Polish news, business,
entertainment and sports
in English each week by
subscribing free to our PDF.
Visit us at
www.newpolandexpress.pl
April - May 2015
127
Hotels
Hotels
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted
T Child-friendly
H Conference facilities
F Fitness centre
U Facilities for the disabled
K Restaurant
L Guarded parking on site
D Sauna
w Wellness
6 Animal friendly
X Smoking rooms available
C Swimming pool
KOMOROWSKI LUXURY GUEST ROOMS
QC-1, ul. Długa 7, tel. (+48) 505 98 93 71, www.
hotelkomorowski.com. 7 rooms (7 singles, 7 doubles).
P
NIEBIESKI ART HOTEL & SPA
QH-3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. (+48) 12 297 40 00, www.
niebieski.com.pl. 40 rooms (38 singles, 38 doubles, 2
apartments). PTH6UFKDw hhhhh
“Remember when we only had enough money for gas, and slept in the back of the truck?” Now we stay at Automobil Hotel (p.131).
No matter your budget, thanks to Kraków’s ascent into
elite status as a European destination, there is no lack of
accommodation options in this fabled city. From fancy
5-star aﬀairs to familiar franchises, boutiques to bed and
breakfasts, historic apartments to some 60-odd hostels you certainly shouldn’t struggle to ﬁnd yourself a place to
sleep. On our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - we
list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and
around Kraków, with full descriptive reviews, photos, reader
comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space
constraints in our print guide no longer allow us to include
all of that content here as we once did, however we still
provide an updated list of reputable hotels, apartments and
hostels below.
With the increasing irrelevance of oﬃcial rack rates these
days due to online booking discounts, special oﬀers and
other price variations, we also no longer ﬁnd it particularly
instructive to list room prices in our guide. Case in point,
anyone who uses the Hotel Calculator function on our
website - again, krakow.inyourpocket.com - will receive a
better rate than the oﬃcial prices we once printed; as such,
we encourage you to do just that and you can thank us
later. Sleep well.
Full contents available online:
krakow.inyourpocket.com
128 Kraków In Your Pocket
CREAM OF THE CROP
COPERNICUS
QC-5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 34 00, www.
hotel.com.pl. 29 rooms (4 singles, 17 doubles, 8 suites).
PTH6FLKDC hhhhh
GRAND
QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424 08 00,
www.grand.pl. 64 rooms (55 singles, 45 doubles, 9
apartments). PTH6UFLKD hhhhh
GRÓDEK
QD-3, ul. Na Gródku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30, www.
donimirski.com. 23 rooms (21 singles, 18 doubles, 2
suites). PTH6ULKD hhhhh
HOLIDAY INN KRAKOW CITY CENTER
QD-4, ul. Wielopole 4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www.
hik.krakow.pl. 237 rooms (236 singles, 236 doubles,
1 Presidential Apartment).
PTH6UFK
hhhhh
HOTEL STARY
QC-2, ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384 08 08,
www.hotel.com.pl. 53 rooms (8 singles, 34 doubles,
4 suites, 6 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTH6UFLKDXCw hhhhh
krakow.inyourpocket.com
RADISSON BLU
QB-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 12 618 88 88,
www.radissonblu.com/hotel-krakow. 196 rooms (147
singles, 147 doubles, 19 apartments, 30 Business Class
Rooms). PTH6UFKDw hhhhh
SHERATON KRAKÓW
QA-5, ul. Powiśle 7, tel. (+48) 12 662 10 00, www.
sheraton.pl/krakow. 232 rooms (221 singles, 221
doubles, 10 suites, 1 Presidential Wawel Apartment).
PTH6UFKDXC hhhhh
UPMARKET
AMADEUS
QD-3, ul. Mikołajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60 70, www.
hotel-amadeus.pl. 22 rooms (20 singles, 20 doubles, 2
apartments). PTHUFLKD hhhh
AMBER DESIGN
QB-2, ul. Garbarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 06, www.
hotel-amber.pl. 20 rooms (14 singles, 14 doubles, 6
suites). PTH6FD hhhh
ANDEL’S HOTEL CRACOW
QD-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12 660 01 00, www.
andelscracow.com. 159 rooms (153 singles, 153 doubles,
6 apartments). PTH6UFKD hhhh
FRANCUSKI
QC-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31, www.
hotel-francuski.com.pl. 42 rooms (4 singles, 23 doubles,
15 apartments). TH6FK hhhh
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
April - May 2015
129
Hotels
Hotels
GALAXY
QK-3, ul. Gęsia 22a, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00, www.
galaxyhotel.pl. 205 rooms (200 singles, 200 doubles,
50 triples, 5 suites). PTHUFLKDXCw
hhhh
HILTON GARDEN INN KRAKÓW
QI-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00,
www.hgi.com. 154 rooms (147 singles, 147 doubles, 7
apartments). PTHUFK hhhh
HILTON GARDEN INN KRAKÓW AIRPORT
Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 3, tel. (+48) 12 340 00 00,
www.hiltoneasteurope.com. 155 rooms (152 singles,
152 doubles, 3 apartments).
PTHUFK
hhhh
MID-RANGE
HOTEL RUBINSTEIN
QE-6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48) 12 384 00 00, www.
rubinstein.pl. 28 rooms (23 singles, 19 doubles, 5 suites).
PTHFKD hhhh
NEW
AUTOMOBIL HOTEL
Qul. Płk. Dąbka 13 (Podgórze), tel. (+48) 665 99 99
04, www.automobilhotel.pl. 18 rooms (18 singles, 9
doubles, 1 triple, 2 suites). THU hhh
NOVOTEL KRAKÓW CENTRUM
QH-3, ul. Kościuszki 5, tel. (+48) 12 299 29 00, www.
novotel.com. 198 rooms (192 singles, 192 doubles, 6
apartments). PTH6UFKDCw hhhh
130 Kraków In Your Pocket
WENTZL
QC-3, Rynek Główny 19, tel. (+48) 12 430 26 64, www.
wentzl.pl. 18 rooms (18 singles, 18 doubles, 8 triples).
PT6LK hhhh
ASCOT HOTEL
QE-3, ul. Radziwiłłowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 384 06 06,
www.hotelascot.pl. 49 rooms (49 singles, 36 doubles, 7
triples, 2 quads). PTH6UX hhh
MATEJKO
QD-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37, www.
matejkohotel.pl. 48 rooms (45 singles, 42 doubles, 3
apartments). TH6UKD hhh
phone: +48 12 430 54 45
ǣΪͶͺͷ͵ͳͺͳͲͲ͹ͺ
ǤǤ
Ǧǣ̷Ǥ
SENACKI
QC-4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 86, www.
hotelsenacki.pl. 20 rooms (20 singles, 16 doubles, 2
suites). PTH6UFLK hhhh
HOTEL KOSSAK
QA-5, Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 379 59 00, www.
hotelkossak.pl. 60 rooms (55 singles, 55 doubles, 5
apartments). PTH6UFKDX hhhh
HOTEL UNICUS
QC-2, ul. Św. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12 433 71 11, www.
hotelunicus.pl. 35 rooms (12 singles, 23 doubles, 1
apartment). PTHFLKD hhhh
ǤÑ͹
31-066 Kraków
QUBUS HOTEL KRAKÓW
QJ-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6, tel. (+48) 12 374 51 00, www.
qubushotel.com. 194 rooms (183 singles, 170 doubles,
10 suites, 1 apartment). PTH6UFKDC
hhhh
CAMPANILE
QD-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424 26 00, www.
campanile.com. 106 rooms (105 singles, 105 doubles, 43
triples, 1 suite). PTH6U hhh
CHOPIN CRACOW
QK-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 00 00, www.
chopinhotel.com. 220 rooms (212 singles, 7 doubles, 1
apartment). PTH6UFKD hhh
CLASSIC
QD-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03 03, www.
hotel-classic.pl. 31 rooms (26 singles, 26 doubles, 3
triples, 5 apartments). PT6U hhh
NOVOTEL KRAKÓW CITY WEST
QF-2, ul. Armii Krajowej 11, tel. (+48) 12 622 64 00,
www.accorhotels.com. 305 rooms (304 singles, 304
doubles, 1 apartment).
PTH6UKDC
hhhh
EDEN
QE-6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65, www.
hoteleden.pl. 27 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles, 5 triples,
2 suites). TH6UD hhh
PARK INN BY RADISSON KRAKOW
QA-7, ul. Monte Cassino 2, tel. (+48) 12 375 55 55, www.
parkinn.com/hotel-krakow. 152 rooms (152 singles, 152
doubles). PTH6UFKDw hhhh
HOTEL KAZIMIERZ
QD-6, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 29, www.
hk.com.pl. 38 rooms (38 singles, 28 doubles, 2 triples).
PTH6 hhh
POD RÓŻĄ (UNDER THE ROSE)
QC-3, ul. Floriańska 14, tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www.lhr.
com.pl. 57 rooms (50 singles, 37 doubles, 7 apartments).
PTH6FKD hhhh
HOTEL KAZIMIERZ ANNEX
QD-6, ul. Miodowa 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 29, www.
hk.com.pl. 11 rooms (11 singles, 11 doubles, 4 triples).
PT6 hhh
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April - May 2015
131
Hotels
Hotels
HOTEL KAZIMIERZ II
QE-5, ul. Starowiślna 60, tel. (+48) 12 426 80 70, www.
hk.com.pl. 23 rooms (23 singles, 21 doubles). TH6
hhh
IBIS KRAKÓW STARE MIASTO
QJ-1, ul. Pawia 15, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 135 rooms (135 singles, 135 doubles,
16 triples). PTH6UK hhh
KARMEL
QE-6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 00, www.
karmel.com.pl. 11 rooms (4 singles, 6 doubles, 1 suite).
T6K hhh
MALTAŃSKI
QB-4, ul. Straszewskiego 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 00 10,
www.donimirski.com. 16 rooms (16 singles, 13 doubles).
TH6UL hhh
POD WAWELEM
QB-5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12 426 26 25, www.
hotelpodwawelem.pl. 48 rooms (47 singles, 42 doubles,
1 apartment). PTH6UKD hhh
POLLERA
QD-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44, www.
pollera.com.pl. 42 rooms (31 singles, 24 doubles, 7
triples, 2 quads, 2 apartments). TH6 hhh
As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow
just 5km from the Market Square, we offer silence and
comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves
delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests
also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also
offer a sauna and tanning bed.
Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Kraków
tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30
e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl
www.ruczajhotel.pl
ROYAL
QC-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 35
00, www.hotelewam.pl. 99 rooms (34 singles, 31
doubles, 12 triples, 9 quads, 10 suites, 3 apartments).
PTH6UK hhh
RUCZAJ
QG-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00, www.
ruczajhotel.com.pl. 45 rooms (25 singles, 17 doubles, 12
triples, 4 quads, 4 suites). PTH6UKD hhh
WAWEL
QC-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00, www.
hotelwawel.pl. 38 rooms (9 singles, 28 doubles, 1
apartment). PTHKDw hhh
WIELOPOLE
QD-4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 14 75, www.
wielopole.pl. 35 rooms (9 singles, 27 doubles, 9 triples).
PT6UK hhh
WYSPIAŃSKI
QD-3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 95 66,
www.hotel-wyspianski.pl. 231 rooms (150 singles, 109
doubles, 81 triples). TH6ULK hhh
132 Kraków In Your Pocket
krakow.inyourpocket.com
BUDGET
APARTMENTS
IBIS BUDGET KRAKÓW STARE MIASTO
QJ-1, ul. Pawia 11, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 50, www.
accorhotels.com. 167 rooms (167 singles, 167 doubles).
PT6U h
APARTMENT CRACOW
QC-2, ul. Floriańska 39, tel. (+48) 12 431 00 26, www.
apartmentcracow.com. 30 rooms (30 apartments).
T6UK
TOURNETQD-6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88,
www.accommodation.krakow.pl. 18 rooms (17 singles,
16 doubles, 10 triples). T6K
APARTMENTHOUSE GRODZKA
QC-3, ul. Grodzka 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 48 35, www.
grodzka.net.pl. 12 rooms (12 apartments). T6
HOSTELS
APARTMENTS APART
QD-5, Rynek Główny 34, tel. (+48) 12 421 42 01, www.
apartmentsapart.com. 41 rooms (41 apartments).
PT6
GREG & TOM BEER HOUSE
QC-2, ul. Floriańska 43, tel. (+48) 12 421 28 64, www.
gregtomhostel.com. 10 rooms (92 dorm beds). K
LET’S ROCK HOSTEL
QC-3, ul. Grodzka 34, tel. (+48) 12 430 30 53, www.
letsrockhostel.com. 8 rooms (1 double, 48 dorm beds).
PINK PANTHER’S HOSTELQC-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 8,
tel. (+48) 12 422 09 35, www.pinkpanthershostel.com.
13 rooms (1 single, 6 doubles, 66 dorm beds).
SECRET GARDEN HOSTELQD-7, ul. Skawińska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 54 45, www.thesecretgarden.pl. 32 rooms
(32 singles, 14 doubles, 7 triples, 2 quads). T6U
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
B&B LA FONTAINE
QC-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 64, www.
bblafontaine.com. 10 rooms (10 apartments). T6K
KRAKOW CITY APARTMENTS
QD-2, ul. Szpitalna 34, tel. (+48) 507 20 30 50, www.
krakowapartments.info. 12 rooms (12 apartments). T
RED KURKA
QC-4, ul. Św. Gertrudy 5, tel. (+48) 535 91 91 35, www.
redkurka.com. 3 rooms (3 apartments). T6
April - May 2015
133
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Kłarna
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Geology
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Wawel
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Ethnographic
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Skałka
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ate ge
rn rid
Beootb
F
Street Register
29 Listopada, Al.
J-1
3 Maja, Al.
G/H-2/3
Akacjowa
L-1
Akademicka
H-2
Aliny
L-1
Altanowa
G-1
Ariańska
J-2
Armii Krajowej, Al.
F/G-1
Asnyka
B-1/2
Augustiańska
D-6-7
Bajeczna
L-3
Bałuckiego
A-6
Bandtkiego
F-1
Bandurskiego
K-1/2
Barska
A/B-6/7
Bartosza
E-6
Basztowa
C/D-2
Batorego
I-2
Beliny-Prażmowskiego, Al.
K-1/2
Berka Joselewicza
E-5
Bernardyńska
B/C-5/6
Biała Droga
H-4
Biernackiego
H-1
Biskupia
B-1
Blachnickiego, ks.
J-3
Blich
J-3
Bobrowskiego
K-3
Boczna
H-4
Bohomolca
L-1
Bocheńska
J-4
Bonerowska
E-4
Bonifraterska
D-7
Bora-Komorowskiego, gen.
K/L-1
Borowego
F-2
Bosacka
E-1/2
Bożego Ciała
D-6/7
Boznańskiej
K-1
Bracka
C-3/4
Brązownicza
F-2
Brodowicza
K-1/2
Bronowicka
F/G-1
Brzozowa
D-5
Bułhaka
A-7
Buszka
F/G-2
Bydgoska
G-1/2
Bytomska
H-1
Ceglarska
H-5
Celna
J-4
Chmielowskiego
I/J-4
Chocimska
H-1/2
Chodkiewicza
J-3
Chodowieckiego
G-2
Chopina
H-2
Ciemna
E-6
Cieszyńska
I-1
Cicha
F-1
Ćwiklowa
F-5
Cybulskiego
A-3
Cystersów
L-2/3
Czapskich
A-3
Czarnieckiego
J-4
Czarnowiejska
H-2
Czarodziejska
G/H-4
Czysta
A-2
Czyżówka
J-5
Dąbrowskiego, gen.
K-4
Dąbska
L-2
Dajwór
E-6
Daszyńskiego
J-3/4
Dębnicka
H-4
Dębowa
A-7
Dekerta
K-4
Dembowskiego
J/K-5
Dietla
C/E-4/6
Długa
C-1
Długosza
J-5
Dobrego Pasterza
K/L-1
Dolnych Młynów
A-2
Dominikańska
C-4
Droga do Zamku
B/C-5-6
Dunajewskiego
B/C-2
Dworska
H-4
Dzielskiego
K/L-1
Estery
D-6
Fabryczna
L-2/3
Fałata
H-3
Feldmana
A-1
Felicjanek
A-4
Fenn’a Sereno
I-2
Filarecka
H-3
Flisacka
H-3/4
Floriańska
C/D-2/3
Focha, Al. marsz.
Franciszkańska
Friedleina
Galla
Garbarska
Garczyńskiego
Garncarska
Gazowa
Gęsia
Głowackiego
Goetla
Gołębia
Gontyna
Grabowskiego
Gramatyka
Grodzka
Gromadzka
Grottgera
Grunwaldzka
Gryﬁty
Grzegórzecka
Gzymsików
Halicka
Helclów
Herlinga-Grudzińskiego
Heweliusza
Hofmana
Humberta
Igrców
Ingardena
Izaaka
Jabłonowskich
Jadwigi z Łobzowa
Jagiellońska
Jachowicza
Jakuba
Jaskółcza
Joselewicza
Józefa
Józeﬁtów
Kadecka
Kalwaryjska
Kamienna
Kamieńskiego
Kanonicza
Kapelanka
Kapucyńska
Karłowicza
Karmelicka
Kasztelańska
Kazimierza Odnowiciela
Kazimierza Wielkiego
Kielecka
Kiełkowskiego
Kijowska, Al.
Kilińskiego
Klimeckiego
Kmieca
Kobierzyńska
Kochanowskiego
Koletek
Kołłątaja
Komandosów
Konarskiego
Konfederacka
Konopnickiej
Konwisarzy
Kopernika
Kordylewskiego
Kościuszki
Kosynierów
Kotlarska
Koźlarska
Krakowska
Krasickiego
Krasińskiego, Al.
Kraszewskiego
Kredowa
Kremerowska
Królewska
Królowej Jadwigi
Krótka
Krowoderska
Krupnicza
Krzemionki
Krzesławicka
Krzywa
Krzywda
ks. Kordeckiego
Księcia Józefa
Kujawska
Kupa
Kurkowa
Kurniki
140 Kraków In Your Pocket
Index
G/H-3
B/C-4
I-1
G/H-1
B-2
K-2
H-2/3
E-7
K-3
G-1
G-2
B-3
G-3
A-1
G-1
C-3/5
L-4/5
H/I-1
K-1/2
G-3
E-4
I-1
J-3/4
I-1
K-4
L-5
F-3
H-3
G-2
H-3
D/E-6
H/I-3
F/G-1
B-2/3
L-2
E-6
H-3
J-3
D/E-6
H-1
G-1
I/J-5
I/J-1
I/J-5
C-4/5
H-4/5
A/B-3
H-2
A/B-1/2
G/H-3
K-1
G/H-1
K-1/2
K/L-4
G/H-1/2
A-7
K/L-4
H-1
H-5
A-1/2
C-6
E-3
I-4/5
H-2
A-7
A/B-5/7
F-1/2
D/E-3
K-2/3
H-3
L-2
K-3
L-5
D-6/7
I-5
H-3
H-3
F-5
A-1
H-1
F/G-2/3
C-1
C-1
A/B-2/3
J-5
L-1
C-1
L-4/5
C-6/7
F/G-4
H-1
E-6
J-2
D-1
Kwartowa
Lanckorońska
Lea
Legionów Piłsudskiego
Lenartowicza
Leszczynowa
Lewkowa
Limanowskiego
Lipowa
Litewska
Loretańska
Lubelska
Lubicz
Lublańska
Lubomirskiego
Ludowa
Ludwinowska
Lwowska
Łobzowska
Madalińskiego
Mała
Malczewskiego
Mały Rynek
Masarska
Matejki, Pl.
Mazowiecka
Meiselsa
Metalowców
Mickiewicza, Al.
Michałowskiego
Michałowskiego
Mikołajska
Miodowa
Mitery
Mlaskotów
Młyńska
Mogilska
Moniuszki
Monte Cassino
Montelupich
Mosiężnicza
Mostowa
Na Gródku
Na Przejściu
Na Szaniec
Na Ustroniu
Na Zjeździe
Nadwislanska
Nawojki
Oboźna
Odlewnicza
Odrowąża
Oﬁar Dąbia
Ogrodowa
Oleandry
Olszańska
Orawska
Orzeszkowej
Owcy-Orwicza
Paderewskiego
Paproci
Parkowa
Patynów
Paulińska
Pawia
Pawlickiego, ks.
Pędzichów
Piastowska
Piekarska
Pietrusińskiego
Pijarów
Pijarska
Piłsudskiego
Piwna
Pl. Bawół
Pl. Bernardyński
Pl. Biskupi
Pl. Bohaterów Getta
Pl. gen. Sikorskiego
Pl. Inwalidów
Pl. Kossaka
Pl. Mariacki
Pl. Matejki
Pl. Na Groblach
Pl. Nowy
Pl. Słowiański
Pl. Serkowskiego
Pl. Szczepański
Pl. Św. Ducha
Pl. Św. Marii Magdaleny
Pl. Wolnica
Pl. Wszytkich Świętych
Płaszowska
Pod Kopcem
L-1
K-5
F/H-1/2
J-4/5
H/I-1/2
F-3
E-6
J/K-4
K-4
H-1
A-2/3
I-1
D/E-2
K-1
J/K-2
K-5
I-4/5
J-K/4
B-1/2
A-6
A-4
F/G-3-4
C-3
K-3
I/J-2
H/I-1
D-6
E-3/4
H-2
A-1/2
H/I-2
C/D-3
D/E-5/6
I-5
H-3
K-1
K/L-1/2
K-2
A-7
I-1
K-2
D/E-7
D-3
E-6
L-3
I-4
J-4
J-4
G-2
H-1
F-1/2
I-1
L-3
D-1
H-2/3
K-1
I-5
C-6/7
F-3
C/D-1
L-4
J-5
G-4
C-6/7
D-1/2
H-4/5
I-1/2
F/G-1/3
C/D-7
G-4/5
K/L-1
C/D-2
A/B-3/4
J-4
E-6
C-5
B/C-1
J-4
A-3
H-2
A-5
C-3
D-1/2
B-4/5
D-6
C-1
J-4/5
B-2
D-2
C-4
D-7
C-4
L-4
F-3
Pod Kopcem, Al.
Podbrzezie
Podbrzezie
Podgórska
Podchorążych
Podskale
Podwale
Podzamcze
Pokoju, Al.
Półkole
Pomorska
Portowa
Poselska
Powiśle
Powroźnicza
Powstańców Śląskich, Al.
K-5
J-3
D-5/6
E-7
G-1
I/J-5
B-2/3
B/C-5
K/L-2/3
L-3
H-1
K/L-4
B/C-4
A/B-5
A-6
J/K-5
Powstańców Wielkopolskich, Al.
K/L-4/5
Powstania Warszaw. Al.
K-2/3
Prądnicka
I-1
Prandoty
J/K-1
Praska
G/H-4
Prusa
H-3
Przedwiośnie
I-4/5
Przemysłowa
K-4
Przybyszewskiego
F-1
Pułaskiego
A-6/7
Racławicka
H-1
Radziwiłłowska
E-2/3
Rajska
A-2
Rakowicka
J/K-1/2
Reformacka
A/B-2
Rękawka
J/K-4
Retoryka
A-4
Reymana
G-2
Reymonta
G/H-2
Rodackiego
J/K-5
Różana
A-6
Ruczaj
F/G-5
Rybaki
I/J-4
Rybna
L-4/5
Rynek Dębnicki
A-6
Rynek Główny
C-3
Rynek Kleparski
C/D-1
Rynek Podgórski
J-4
Rzeszowska
E-6
Rzeźnicza
K-3
Sądowa
K-2
Salezjańska
G/H-5
Salwatorska
H-3
Sandomierska
A/B-6
Sarego
C/D-4/5
Saska
L-4/5
Senacka
C-4
Senatorska
H-3
Siedleckiego
E-4/5
Siemieńskiego
G/H-1
Siemiradzkiego
A-1
Sienkiewicza
H-1
Sienna
C-3/4
Skałeczna
C/D-7
Skalica
F-5
Skarbińskiego
G-1
Skawińska
C/D-7
Skłodowskiej-Curie
D/E-3
Skwerowa
A-7
Sławkowska
C-2/3
Słomiana
H-4/5
Słoneckiego
K-1
Słonecznikowa
F-3
Słowackiego, Al.
H/I-1
Smocza
B-6
Smoleńsk
A/B-4
Smolki
I/J-5
Sobieskiego
I-2
Sobieskiego Jana III
A/B-1
Sołtyka
E-3/4
Spasowskiego
A/B-1
Spiżowa
F-1/2
Starowiślna
D/E-4/6
Staszica
I-1
Stawarza
J-5
Stefana Batorego
A/B-1
Stoczniowców
L-4
Stolarska
C-3/4
Stradomska
C/D-5/6
Straszewskiego
I-3
Strzelców
K-1
Strzelecka
E-2
Studencka
A/B-3
Sukiennicza
C-6
Supniewskiego
K-1/2
Swoszowicka
J-5
Symfoniczna
Syrokomli
Szablowskiego
Szafera
Szczepańska
Szenwalda
Szeroka
Szewska
Szklarska
Szlachtowskiego
Szlak
Szpitalna
Szwedzka
Szymanowskiego
Śląska
Śliska
Ślusarska
Śniadeckiego
Św. Agnieszki
Św. Anny
Św. Bronisławy
Św. Filipa
Św. Gertrudy
Św. Idziego
Św. Jacka
Św. Jana
Św. Katarzyny
Św. Krzyża
Św. Łazarza
Św. Marka
Św. Sebastiana
Św. Stanisława
Św. Teresy
Św. Tomasza
Św. Wawrzyńca
Świętokrzyska
Tenczyńska
Tkacka
Topolowa
Toruńska
Traugutta
Trynitarska
Twardowskiego
Tyniecka
Urzędnicza
Wadowicka
Wałowa
Wandy
Warmijska
Warszauera
Warszawska
Wasilewskiego
Wąska
Waszyngtona
Węglowa
Wenecja
Westerplatte
Widok
Wielopole
Wierzbowa
Wietora
Wioślarska
Wiślna
Władysława Łokietka
Włościańska
Wodna
Wodociągowa
Wójtowska
Wolnica, Pl.
Worcela
Wróblewskiego
Wrocławska
Wrzesińska
Wyczółkowskiego
Wygoda
Wyspiańskiego
Zacisze
Zakątek
Zamenhofa
Zamkowa
Zarzecze
Zatorska
Zaułek
Zegadłowicza
Zielińskiego, gen.
Zwierzyniecka
Zwycięstwa
Zyblikiewicza
Zygmunta Augusta
Żelazna
Żółkiewskiego
H-2
H-3
F-1
K-2/3
B/C-2/3
L-1/2
E-6
B-2/3
L-4
G-1
I/J-1
C/D-2/3
H-4
H-2
I-1
I-5
K-4
J-3/4
C-6
B-3
G-3
C/D-1
C/D-4/5
C-5
H-5
C-2/3
D-6/7
D-3
J-3
C/D-2/3
C/E-5
C-7
I-1
B/D-2/3
D/E-6/7
I-1
B-4
H-2
J-2
G-2
K-4
D/E-7
H-5
F/H-4/5
H-1/2
I-5
K-4
K-3
G-1
D/E-6
D-1
A-7
E-6
G-3
D-7
A-3
D-2/3
L-3
J-3
I-4
I-4
G-4
B-3
I-1
F-1
L-5
F-4
H-1
J-4
D-2
I-1/2
H/I-1
E-4
G/H-3
A-4
H-1
D-1/2
H-1
D/E-2
A-6
F-1
I-4/5
K-4
A-4
G/H-4
A/B-4/5
L-2/3
D/E-3/4
J-2
J-1
K-3
krakow.inyourpocket.com
19th Century Polish Art Gallery
76
Adam Mickiewicz
74
AeroPlatform
118
Alchemia
64
Alchemia od Kuchni
30
Alebriche
42
Amadeus
129
Amarone
38
Ambasada Śledzia
62
Amber Design
129
Amber Museum & Laboratory
121
andel's Hotel Cracow
129
Andrzej Mleczko Gallery 122
Antycafe
57
Apartment Cracow
133
Apartmenthouse Grodzka 133
Apartments Apart
133
Aperitif
34
Aqua e Vino
38
Aqua Fun
116
Archaeology Museum
76
Archdiocesan Museum of
Cardinal Karol Wojtyła
77
Artefakt Cafe
64
Ascot Hotel
131
Aubergine Dine & Wine
41
Auschwitz I
109
Auschwitz II - Birkenau
109
Auschwitz Jewish Centre &
Chevra Lomdei Mishnayot
Synagogue
108
Automobil Hotel
131
Baccarat
62
Baccarat Live
60
Bagelmama
30
Bałkanica 303
32
Barbican
69
Barka
52
Bar Kazimierz
48
Baroque
57
B&B La Fontaine
133
Bianca
38
Bistro Trójkąt
64
Bon Appétit
33
Bonarka City Center
124
Boscaiola
38
Botanical Garden
118
Bottiglieria 1881
61
Brasserie Sztuka
33
Bunkier Cafe
57
Burlesque
62
Cafe Młynek
53
Cafe Tramwaj
110
Camaldolese Monastery
8
Campanile
131
Castle
82
Cathedral
84, 111
Cathedral Museum
85
C.C. Stefan Batory
52
Central Square & Roses Avenue
103
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 119
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino
30
Chopin Cracow
131
Church of Saints Peter & Paul 72
Church of St. John the Baptist
102
Cień
62
Cistercian Monastery
101
City Defensive Walls
77
City Engineering Museum 88
C.K. Browar
58
Classic
131
Cloth Hall
123
Collegium Maius
77
Copernicus
34, 128
Cracow Chocolate Factory 124
Cracow City Tours
71
Cracow Tours
70
Crazy Guides
102
Cricoteka
93
Crown Treasury & Armoury 83
Cruising Kraków
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Cupcake Corner
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Czerwone Korale
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Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu 40
Dekor Art
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Delikatesy 13
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Destino
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Diocesan Museum
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DiscoverCracow.eu
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Diva Music Gallery
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Dragon's Den
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Eden
131
Ed Red
46
El Toro Restaurante
52
Eros Bendato
74
Ethnographic Museum 88, 112
Europeum Centre for European
Culture
77
FACTORY Outlet
125
Food Truck Square
40
Football Heaven Sports Bar 58
Fort Benedict
94
FORUM MODY
123
Forum Przestrzenie
58
Francuski
129
Frankie's
54
Frantic
63
Free Walking Tour
70
Galaxy
130
Galeria Kazimierz
125
Galeria Krakowska
125
Galeria Plakatu
122
Galicia Jewish Museum
88
Gallery of Ancient Art
78
Ghetto Wall Fragments
97
Gold Club
63
Grand
128
Grande Grill
29
Greg & Tom Beer House 133
Gródek
128
Grunwald Monument
75
Guliwer Cafe & Restaurant 42
Hammam Shahrazad
119
Hamsa
41
Hard Rock Cafe
29, 58
High Synagogue
90
Hilton Garden Inn Kraków 130
Hilton Garden Inn Kraków
Airport
130
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Hipolit House
78
History Museum
78
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center
128
Home Army Museum
78
Hotel Kazimierz
131
Hotel Kazimierz Annex
131
Hotel Kazimierz II
132
Hotel Kossak
130
Hotel Rubinstein
130
Hotel Stary
128
Hotel Unicus
130
House Of Beer
58
Hutten-Czapski Museum
79
Ibis Budget Kraków Stare
Miasto
133
Ibis Kraków Stare Miasto 132
IDEA FIX Concept Store
123
Indus Tandoor
34
InfoKraków
71
InVito Pizza & Pasta
39
Irish Pub Pod Papugami
60
Isaac Synagogue
90
Jama Michalika
54
Jan Matejko
75
Jan Matejko House
79
Jan Matejko Manor House 102
Jarema
46
Jewish Community
86
Jewish Community Centre 86
Jordan Tourist Information and
Accommodation Centre
71
Józef Mehoffer House
79
Judaica Foundation
86
Kacper Ryx
123
Karma Coffee Roasters
54
Karmel
132
Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski 38
Klezmer Hois
40
Klub Piękny Pies
64
Kogel Mogel
46
Komorowski Luxury Guest
Rooms
129
Kopernik
124
Kościuszko Mound
99
Krakow City Apartments 133
Krakowski Kredens
124
Kraków Water Park
119
Kraków Zoo
7
KRK Bike Rental
116
Kupa Synagogue
90
La Bicicletta
35
La Campana Trattoria
39
La Fontaine
33
La Grande Mamma
39
Laser Park
117
Le Scandale
65
Let's Rock Hostel
133
Liban Quarry
96
Lost Wawel
83
Main Market Square
68
Małopolska Tourist Information
71
Maltański
132
Mamma Mia
39
Manggha
80
Marmolada
47
Matejko
130
Meho Cafe
55
Milkbar Tomasza
30, 47
Miód i Wino
47
Miód Malina
49
Miss Golonko
49
Mleczarnia
65
Moaburger
29
Moment
65
Morskie Oko
49
Mostowa Art Cafe
65
Multi Qlti Tap Bar
60
Museum of Contemporary Art 93
NOWA HUTA STREET REGISTER
Andersa, al., gen.
M/N-1/3
Artystów
N-3
Bardosa
T-4
Batalionu Parasol
M-1
Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen.
M-2/3
Bulwarowa
P/R-1/4
Centralny, pl.
N/O-3
Cerchów
P-4
Daniłowskiego
R-4
Gajocha
O-3/4
Gardy-Godlewskiego, płk.
O-2/3
Jana Pawła II, al.
M/R-3/4
Klasztorna
R-5
Kleinera
T-1
Kocmyrzowska
M/N-1
Lehra-Spławińskiego
T-1
Ludźmierska
N-1/2
Łempickiego
S-1
Mierzwy
O/R-3/4
Mościckiego
O/P-1
Obrońców Krzyża
N-1
Orkana
P/R-3
Padniewskiego, bp.
M-4
Przyjaźni, al.
N/O-2/3
Ptaszyckiego
R/T-4/5
Róż, al.
O-1/2
Rydza-Śmigłego, marsz.
M/P-1/2
Sieroszewskiego
P/R-5
Solidarności, al.
O/T-1/3
Stalowa
O-1
Struga
P-2
Tomickiego, bp.
M-3/4
Ujastek
T-1
Ujastek Mogilski
T-2/4
Wańkowicza
S-1
Wąwozowa
S-1
Wiśniowy Sad
M-2
Wojciechowskiego
P-1
Zachemskiego
P-4/5
Zuchów
P-3/4
Żeromskiego
O/P-1/2
April - May 2015
141
Index
FEATURES INDEX
Barbican
Beer Gardens
Błonia Meadow
Breakfast
Breweries
Currency Exchange
Decoding the Menu
Dishing Up History
Facts & Figures
Food Truck Square
Former Gestapo Cells
Have Your Say
Jagiellonian University
Kraków Beach
Kraków Historical Timeline
Kraków in 24hrs
Kraków IYP Online
Kraków Street Art
Krakus Mound
Lady With an Ermine
Language Smarts
Las Wolski
Late Night Eats
Liban Quarry
Live Music
Main Market Square
Market Values
Milk Bars
Plac Bohaterów Getta
Plac Nowy
Plac Wolnica
Polish Aviation Museum
Polish Food
Polish Snacks & Shots
Polish Vodka
Riverboat Dining
Słowacki Theatre
The Cloth Hall
The Hejnał
The Obwarzanek
The Planty
Tipping Tribulations
Tourist Card
Useful Transport Apps
142 Kraków In Your Pocket
69
57
118
30
58
126
29
32
16
40
78
55
77
119
19
67
74
81
94
85
17
6
38
96
60
68
16
48
95
90
88
79
44
62
59
52
69
76
72
43
70
29
71
14
National Museum, Main
Building
80
New Jewish Cemetery
91
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA 129
NINE Kitchen
30
Norbertine Monastery
99
Nova Krova
53
Novotel Kraków Centrum 130
Novotel Kraków City West 130
Nowa Huta Museum
102
Noworolski
55
Old Jazz Cafe
55
Old Synagogue
91
Omerta
65
Oriental Art
83
Park Inn by Radisson Krakow
130
Pasaż 13
125
Pauza
60
Pharmacy Museum
80
Pharmacy Under the Eagle 93
Piec'Art
60
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa
62
Piłsudski Mound
7
Pink Panther's Hostel
133
Piwnica Pod Baranami
60
Plac Nowy
90, 121
Plac Nowy 1
35, 117
Plac Targowy Unitarg
121
Pod Aniołami
49
Pod Baranem
50
Pod Norenami
53
Pod Nosem
50
Pod Różą
50, 130
Pod Temidą
48
Pod Wawelem
50, 132
Pollera
132
Przegorzały Castle
8
Qubus Hotel Kraków
131
Radisson Blu
129
Ramen Girl of Yellow Dog 32
Red Kurka
133
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery
91
Restauracja w Hotelu
Francuskim
51
Rock Shop
123
Royal
132
Royal Crypts
84
Royal Kraków Golf & Country
Club
117
Ruczaj
132
Rynek Underground
80
Rzeźnia - Ribs on Fire
30
Sandomierska Tower
83
Sąsiedzi
51
Scandale Royal
30, 36, 38
Schindler's Factory
93
Secret Garden Hostel
133
SeeKrakow
71
Senacki
131
Shakers Kraków
63
Sheraton Kraków
129
Sigismund Bell
85
Singer
65
Słodki Wierzynek
55
Słoń Torbalski
123
Słowacki Theatre
69
Smakołyki
51
Soprano
110
St. Adalbert’s
72
Stained Glass Museum
81
Stalowe Magnolie
60
St. Andrew’s
73
Stanisław Lem Science Garden
118
Stara Zajezdnia
58
Starmach Gallery
97
Stary Kleparz
121
State Rooms & Royal Private
Apartments
83
St. Francis' Basilica
73
St. Joseph's
92
St. Mary’s Basilica
73
S-Tours
70
Studio Qulinarne
36
Sukiennice Kompania Kuflowa
51
Święta Krowa
61
Szambelan
121
Szara
36
Szara Kazimierz
36
Szołayski House
81
Tap House
61
Tarnów District Museum - Main
Branch
111
T.E.A. Time
58
Temple Synagogue
91
The Dorsz British Fish & Chips
33
The Lord's Ark
102
The Mexican
42
The Stage
117
Tournet
133
Town Hall Museum
112
Town Hall Tower
81
Tradycyja
36
Trap Kraków
117
Trufla
36
Trzy Rybki
36
Tyskie Brewery
115
U Ziyada
9
Vanilla Sky
36
Vanilla SPA
119
Ventuno Boutique
123
Visiting the Auschwitz Museum
107
Viva la PINTA
61
Wanda's Mound
103
Water Equipment Rental 117
Wawel
132
Well Done
30
Wentzl
131
Wesele
52
Wieliczka Salt Mine
106
Wielopole
132
Wierzynek
52
World of Amber
121
WOW KRAKOW!
70
WRT Karting
117
Wyspiański
132
ZaKładka - Food & Wine
34
Zapiecek Ekspres
38
Zen Restaurant & Sushi Bar 32
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