1. style and fashion
2. clothing
3. pants

Fitting Commercial Patterns:
Pants & Skirts
My Label Overlay
Debbi Lashbrook
dlashbrook@berninausa.com
New to My Label???
OVERLAY: Steps Involved
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Press all pattern pieces
What happened to the dart?
What type of ease does the pattern have?
Decide what My Label pattern to use to check
the fit.
Pin pattern pieces together if needed.
Overlay and align the patterns.
Analyze differences.
Alter the commercial pattern.
Ease Allowances
Hip ease for style:
Close fitting
Fitted
Semi-fitted
Loose fit
Very loose fit
0-2”
2 1/8-3”
3 1/8-4”
4 1/8-6”
Over 6”
Checking Ease: Printed on Patterns
• Actual Hip Measurement
My Label Patterns: Skirts
• Use basic skirt pattern for straight or
slightly flared skirts
• Can convert dart of straight skirt to flare to
check with A-line skirt designs
• Use gored pattern for skirts with panels or
with fullness
Critical Areas of Fit: Skirt
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Waist circumference
High hip circumference
Hip circumference
Pitch of waist
Skirts: Fitted Skirts
• Inset pockets
• Some views have
gathers rather
than darts
Pattern Diagram
• Always look at
pattern guide
Align CF + Waist at CF
• Check waist, high
hip, and hip
Align CB and Waist
• Check waist, high
hip, and hip
Waist Fit: Compare Dart Take-Up
Skirts: Fitted Skirt
• A-line skirt
• Elastic waist
• Seam details
Pattern Diagram
Converting Straight Skirt to Flared
• Draw slash line from bottom of dart
• Match dart legs; flare opens from bottom of
dart
Balance Side Seams
• Place front & back
pattern pieces rst
• Redraw side seam
• Divide difference
between front + back
• Add to front; subtract
from back
Align CF and Waistline at CF
Front + Back
• Front + back are
the same in
commercial
pattern
Gored Skirt
• High-waisted skirt
• Flared hem/gored
Pattern Guide
• CF/CB panel is same
• Side panels—cut 4
• Faced waist
My Label Gored Skirt
• Align waist mark of
pattern with waist of
ML; align CF fold
line of pattern with
stitching line at CF
of ML pattern
• Check for 5/8”
seam allowance
overlap
Waist Shaping
Comparison of Back Pieces
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pattern uses same
pieces as for front
Straight Gore Skirt
• Two options to compare:
– Print ML straight gore
– Use ML straight skirt
For Straight ML Gore
• Make hem
opening = hip
Compare Fronts
• Overlap of seam
allowance down
front panel
Compare Back
• Place pieces together
• CB on fold of
commercial pattern;
seam line of ML
pattern
• Measure waistline
Skirt with Yoke
• Use ML Pleated Skirt
Compare Front
• Align CF and
waistline seam
• Must slash yoke
from end of dart to
side so pattern will
be flat
• Check for fit along
side seam
Compare Back
• Align CB and
waistline seam
• Slash to side
seam at end of
dart for flat
pattern
Which ML Pattern?
• Compare to full front pattern
Which ML Pattern?
Pants
• Draw crotch line on pattern
• Decide which ML pattern to use for
comparison
• Align CF seam + drawn crotch line
• Alter the commercial pattern as needed
Preparing Patterns
• Draw crotch line on
pattern
• Perpendicular to grain
• At intersection of
CF/CB & inseam
stitching lines
Draw Crotch Line
• Mark intersection of
inner leg seam and
crotch seamline
• Draw line from this
point perpendicular
to grain line
Alignment
• Align at drawn
crotch line &
CF/CB seam
Pant Waistband Styles
• Pleated pant: One or two pleats in front; darts or
elasticized in back; Straight waistband
• Pull-on pant: Elasticized waist; varies in amount
of ease added; may have attached straight
waistband or turn down band
• Flat front pant: Darts in front + back, faced waist
or straight waist band
• Contoured waist pant: Curved waistband, darts
in back, not often in front, lower rise
• High-waisted pant: Waistline extends above
natural waistline; uses fish-eye dart; faced
Pant Fit Styles
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Trouser
Slack
Culotte
Jeans
Relaxed jeans
Leggings
Leg Definitions: Style Properties
• Straight Leg: Fit to the hip and fall straight
down from the hip
• Tapered Leg: Fit snug to the knee; then
taper to the hem
• Boot Cut Leg: Fit snug to the knee; then
flare out below the knee
• Flares/Bell Bottoms: Exaggerated flare
from the knee to hem
Leg Width
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Tapered: 14.5”
Straight leg: 19.5”
Boot Cut: 16.5”
Wide Leg: 22.5”
Rise of Pant:
Distance between the crotch and the waist
• High rise: Above the narrowest part of waist
• Regular rise: About 12”; positions the band at
your natural waist
• Just below waist: Sit just below natural waist
or just below belly button (10-11”)
• Low rise: 8”, but may measure as little as 3-4”
“Body Type” Pants
• Levi’s Curve ID:
– Slight Curve
– Demi Curve
– Bold Curve
There are patterns made like this as well.
Side seam shape
• Slim, average, and
curvy fit
• Hip measurements
have 1/2” difference
between each type
• Contoured waistband
Body Curve Patterns
Front
Back
Body Curve Patterns
Average Compared to Curvy
Slim Compared to Average
Body Curve Patterns
• Extra in crotch
extensions
Fitting Challenges
• Hip Curves—shape of side seam
– Waist to Hip important measurement
Adjusting Style Properties
Pant Fit
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Crotch depth
Crotch length
Pitch of pant
Length of pant
Waist/hip
circumference
• Side seam shape
(waist/high hip/hip
ratio)
• Hang of pant leg
• Shape of crotch seam
Pitch
• Relationship between front waist position
and back waist position
Measurements for Pants
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Height
Waist Height
Crotch Height
Hip Height
High Hip Height
Knee Height
Pitch
Total Crotch Length + front and back
Waist to Hip
True Rise
Waist
Hip at Crotch
Hip
High hip
Which pattern to use????
• For elastic-banded pants, use pull-on
pants
• For fitted pants, use flared pant
• For pleated pants, use pleated trouser
• For jeans, use jean pattern
Pant: Elastic
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Straight leg
Inner leg seam only
Flat waistband in front
Elastic in sides and back
Pattern Diagram
Valencia Pant
• Align at crotch depth line
Overlay
Pant: Fitted
• Straight legged
pant
• Contoured waist +
facing
• Front + back darts
• Side zipper
Pattern diagram
Using My Label as Overlay
• Use the flared pant to check the fit of
fitted pants patterns
• Pin the waistband to the top of the pant
patterns in front and back
Alignment of Patterns
• CF seam
• Crotch line
Front pant: Fit Check Points
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Crotch depth
Pitch of pant
Crotch length
Circumference
Size of Dart/Curve of Seam
Back Pant
Side Seam Check
• Pin dart in
Mimosa
• Align seamlines
of ML band with
pant
• Compare to ML
pattern
Pleated Pant
• Fly front zipper
• Side slash pocket
• Buttoned waistband
sets above the waist
Pattern Diagram
• Pieces C, G, H
Front
Front
Back
Back Dart
Flat Front
• Slightly below
waistline
• Rise measures 10
5/8” for size 14
Front
Back
Low Rise Pants
• Upper edge of
waistband 1 ½” below
waist
Pattern Guide Sheet
• Straight band; not
contoured
Front + Back
High-waisted pant
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Straight-legged
Raised waist
Front tucks
Elastic back w/ zipper
Pattern Diagram
Front
Front Waistline
Back
Back Waistline
Knit Pants
• Pull on pants
• Knits only
Alignment
Leggings
• Two-way stretch
• No ML equivalent
• Pull on pant
Leggings
Leggings + Pull On Pant
Jeans
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Read description:
Fit
Waistband
Leg width
Front Jean
Back Jean
Pant Alterations
Crotch Depth
• Slash across pattern
• Spread/tuck an even
amount
Pant Alterations
Crotch Length
• Change according to
measurements; front
and back crotch length
• Slash from CB/CF to
side seam
• Forms wedge to add
more length to crotch
Pant Alterations
Crotch extensions
• Adds to crotch length
• Also to thighs
Crotch Extension
Pant Alterations
Pitch of Pant
• Upward pulls toward
upper hip side seam
Shape of Crotch Seam
• American vs.
European Fit in
crotch curve
Bagginess below seat
• “Dart” from inner leg to outer