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B5one How To: K04-15 Turbocharger Upgrade
11/28/2005 08:36 PM
K04-15 Turbocharger Upgrade - HermanH
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Disclaimer: By reading this, the reader accepts full responsibility in performing the following work at his or her own risk. B5one cannot assume responsibility for any damage, injury,
dismemberment or death, as a result of you the reader, following our instructions. We supply this information freely, for those interested in knowing what is involved with such
modifications. If you find you would like to perform a similar modification to your vehicle, we urge you to first seek the advice of a qualified mechanic prior to undertaking any of the
work. Some work will require physical strength that may be beyond your ability to perform.
DIY Rating: Difficult (5/5 wrenches)
Time: 5-10 hours
People Needed: 1-2
Tools Necessary:
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" drive torque wrench
3/8" drive extensions of various sizes and universal joint
1/4" drive ratchet
1/4" drive extensions of various sizes.
8mm socket (1/4" drive.)
10 mm socket (3/8" drive.)
13 mm socket (3/8" drive.)
17 mm socket (3/8" drive.)
19 mm socket (3/8" drive.)
17mm box end/open-end wrench
19mm box end/open-end wrench
5mm allen wrench
6mm allen wrench
#2 phillips screw driver
Various flat head screw drivers
Pliers and Needle nose pliers.
Channel Lock pliers
Rubber Mallet
Turkey pan or other large pan
Various sized hose clamps from that can handle 5/8" down to 1/4" OD hoses.
Various sized zipties. Try to get those designed for outdoor use.
Your choice of oil & filter
(filter pn: 06A-115-561-B)
G12 Coolant (pn: G-012-A8F-A4)
1 Gallon Distilled or Ionized water
3mm I.D. silicone hose (optional)
The K04-15 turbocharger is an upgrade to the existing KKK-K03 turbo that come standard on 1.8T Passats. The primary difference between a K03 and K04 is both the exhaust
turbine vane and the compressor vane. The profile for exhaust side can't be seen from the outside, but the compressor side is very distinct:
K03 Compressor
K04 Compressor
For another perspective on the K04 upgrade, please click on this URL: http://www.europeanspeed.com/k042.htm.
I purchased my K04 from Dynospot Racing. They carry both Eurospec and AWE Tuning's K04 kits. The big difference between the two is AWE supplies spark plugs while Eurospec
does not. Both have all the gaskets and washers plus the 5 bar fuel pressure regulator (FPR). The other big difference is price. Being a current GIAC customer, you do get credit
towards the K04 EMC upgrade. However, Eurospec was a couple hundred dollars less expensive. The reason is: they use new K03 unit and replace the compressor and turbine
designed for a K04, to create a K04-15 system. The only question is: are the turbine and compressor vanes sourced from KKK themselves or not. I do not have an answer to this.
Also, B5one members get a special price from Clay at Kinetic Motorsport...$710 for the K04-15! Just contact clay@kineticmotorsport.com, and mention B5one.
Before You Begin:
Read these instructions a few times and look in your engine bay and be able to identify every part that you see here. If you can't ID the part, ASK! Or consult your Bentely
Manual/CD. Planning and familiarization was the key for me in having a successful install.
Never work on the turbocharger when it is hot. Chances are even if it were just warm, the coolant and oil in the lines may still be very hot. I suggest you work on the car first
thing in morning.
Also, plan around doing an oil change at the same time and plan on having at least another friend to help in routing the oil return tube in and out of the engine bay; it takes a
specific path and prone to hanging up very easily going in either direction!
Also note that while I have broken this down into an orderly manner, there's nothing that says that 2 people can be doing parts of this job simultaneously.
Set aside at least 6 hours. Realistically, that's how long it should probably take a couple of amatures to do. Me and my buddy got the K04 swapped in within 6 hours and that
included picture taking dinner and other breaks. I spent another 5 hours the following day which also included lunch, breaks, picture taking and testing.
INSTRUCITONS
1. Jack up the front of the car and put on jack stands.
2. Remove the belly pan.
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3. Remove the oil drain plug and let all the oil drain out. At this time, you can also remove/replace the oil filter. Do NOT fill with new oil at this time.
4. Back on top, remove ALL plastic engine covers and the inlet duct to the air box.
5. Recommend at this time to remove and replace the FPR. Remove the hose clip from the vacuum line and remove from the FPR. Pull the large clip from the FPR and using
channel locks, gently twist and lift the FPR from the receptacle.
6. You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap in the FPR. It SHOULD be a tight fit (after all, we are talking about combustible substance that could cause a fire!) If you don't
have a rubber mallet, use a soft piece of wood and use it to cushion the blow of a hammer. Then reseat the FPR clip and reinstall the vacuum line.
7. Back down, after all the oil has drained, plug up the drain hole and torque the plug to 30 Nm (22 ft.-lbs.) In my case, I have a Pela 6000 oil extractor so this part was not
necessary for me to do.
8. While you're down there, use a 10mm socket and remove the two 10mm bolts from the turbo's oil return tube. Have something to catch any remaining oil that might drain
from the tube.
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9. While still down below, find the spring loaded down pipe bracket and use a 13mm socket to remove the bolt so the DP is free. This allows enough movement for the cat to
separate from the turbo later on.
10. Still down there? Ok, begin removal of the hoses to the intercooler tube, the diverter valve. You'll need either an 7 or 8mm 1/4" socket or a phillips screw driver for nearly all
the clamps on this car. If your DV signal hose needs replacing, now would be a good time to do so.
11. Back up top for some air because next, we remove the air box. This allows all the room you'll need to work on the turbo. There is no real need to take the box "apart",
rather, we will simply flip it out of the way. Start by removing the 10mm bolt that anchors the top of the air box to the chassis.
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12. Next remove the 4 phillips screws that holds the heat shield in place; you need to remove this so you can remove the EVAP line that is anchored to air box and leads to the
pressure regulator valve. Once the heat shield is removed, remove the two black Phillips screws to release the EVAP line.
13. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the intake hose from the air box. Be careful nothing touches the now exposed MAF sensor inside the box. Also, remove the N75 plug from
the N75 valve (see Step 14 picture for location). The airbox can now be flipped out of the way:
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14. There are several hoses that tie the turbos intake hose; kind of reminds me of a ginseng root. At the center of this is the N75 wastegate control valve. This has 3 tubes, one
of which goes directly into the intake hose. The second goes to a pressure sensor from the casing of the turbo, and the third goes to the wastegate acutator itself. You will
need to remove the two hoses that lead to the turbo. The hose clamps are a one-time-use so you'll need to mangle these to release the hoses.
15. Remember that EVAP hose attached to the airbox? It leads into the intake hose. I removed this from the EVAP line.
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16. If you've done everything properly, the primary inlet tube can be removed w/N75 valve attached, which provides much needed room t remove the turbo.
NOTE: If you're upgrading the N75 to the N75H valve, now would be a good time to do this.
17. With the pressure regulator valve detached from the EVAP tube, you can begin removing the "oil deflector", where the oil supply line runs inside of. Start with unbolting two
5mm hex bolts to allow the large EVAP tube to move around; one 5mm hex bolt is located near the front/top of the valve head, the second is towards the rear; refer to the
pictures for location.
Afterwards, remove the three Phillips screws that attach the oil deflector to the EVAP tube
Remove the two 13mm bolts along the side of the oil deflector - one towards the front, one towards the rear. The rear is a little harder to see but it's there. Again, refer to
the picture for general location. When all of the bolts and screws are removed, slide/wiggle the oil deflector away; this exposes the 3rd 17mm turbo mounting bolt.
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18. Place a turkey pan or large tray under the A/C compressor; it would help to have as large a tray as possible since coolant will drip from multiple places below. Then, using a
19mm flare (or open end wrench), remove the coolant return line. A lot of coolant will flow out of here. I would recommend based on my experience, to allow the coolant to
simply flow out.
You can optionally just drain all the coolant; I didn't take a picture of this but there is one drain plug at the water pump, and another in the radiator. By draining from both,
you should be able to drain all the coolant from the block (7.4 quarts).
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19. Using a 13mm flare or open end wrench, remove the oil supply line.
20. The coolant supply line is easier to remove from the block rather than at the turbo. You will need to follow the banjo bolt/hose to the hose clamp on the other side; it uses an
8mm socket to loosen.
21. Just below the oil supply line fitting is a 6mm hex bolt that attaches the turbo to the turbo-support bracket (refer to Step 18 picture). You will need to use something like a
long skinny pipe along with a long handled 6mm hex wrench; the bolt is a grade 10 so do NOT worry about going at it with all your strength.
22. With all of the hoses either loose or removed, you can now remove the three 17mm nuts from the catalytic converter (refer to Step 18 picture.) The one underneath is easier
to remove if you have an 18" extension and a universal joint. I had no problems at all with this setup.
23. Finally, remove the three 17mm bolts that hold the turbocharger unit to the exhaust manifold (refer to Step 18 picture.) The turbocharger weighs around 2 lbs. Be sure you're
holding the turbo up when you're unbolting it. Again, the second person will come in handy here. The tricky part AFTER the bolts are out, is to have one of you go down under
and guide the oil return line up while the other person is lifting the turbo up. Throw away all gaskets (oil supply, exhaust/cat, and exhaust /turbo).
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24. With both the old turbo and new turbo side by side, begin removing all of the hydraulic fittings from the hold turbo and transfer them to the new one, keeping in mind to
replace ALL crush washers as needed. Note that the coolant supply line uses a bracket and 10mm bolt to hold it in place.
25. My favorite part: assembly is the reverse of removal. Just saved me some 20 steps of typing! Please refer to the Bentley diagram for all torque settings. The only one that I
didn't scan was the one for the oil deflector; so here they are:
5mm hex bolts: 7 ft-lbs.
13mm bolts: 18 ft-lbs.
Also, thanks to passaturbonium, I would recommend you drip in some motor oil into the oil supply fitting when the turbo is bolted in. A good tablespoon should do it.
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26. Once you've double checked your torque settings, it's time to refill the oil and coolant. Refer to the Bentley manual for the coolant but generally speaking, the G12 coolant is
not premixed and requires a 50/50 mix of G12 and distilled water. The coolant takes awhile to fill since thermostat is shut so be prepared to spend some time on this.
27. Go over EVERYTHING with your buddy to ensure everything was buttoned down (belly pan, oil cap, coolant cap, engine covers, etc.) and that the torque wrench was used in
everyplace possible, and all hose clamps are nice and tight.A word to the wise: although the torque on the hydraulic fittings seem rather light when compared to other engine
bolts, the crush washers WILL do their job as long as you DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN them. This is a case where more is not better.
28. If you're replacing the ECM yourself, you should know already what to do: remove negative from the battery, open up ECM and swap out boards, button up the black box,
reattach the negative battery post, and perform the 2 minute TB adaptation drill.
29. Now, start the car and set your RPM's to 2,000 for 3 minutes. This is the routine for the coolant; you can have your buddy watch the coolant level during this time, and have
him add coolant to the max. line. During this time, you will see tons of smoke emanating from the turbo and exhaust manifold. This is NORMAL. I had used Liquid Wrench to
help unfreeze the bolts and nuts ahead of time so they're just burning off as the car begins to warm up.We waited until the temperature gauge went to 190 deg. Before we
did the final top-off of coolant. We let the engine run for 15 minutes, watching for leaks above and below. Everything looked clean. When you're convinced it's not going to
leak, take it for a spin. Do a few runs to 60mph and then check for leaks again. Note the new whine of the turbo! This one's gonna turn some heads!
Impressions
Cannot comment too much at this time; I did not have the K04 program done but that will be coming soon. Will update this page when I finally get the chip in and some dyno runs
performed, along with EGT graph. Stay tuned.
Update: 7/17/2003
After a few weeks and a couple of dyno sessions, a few things are still not right with this system.
The day I got the K04 chip installed I ran the car on a dynojet at Dynospot Racing and the torque and HP were terrible! The graph was choppy and max. HP was on the order of 176.
Looking at the boost gauge, you could see the gauge spike at about 16 and drastically pull all the way down to 12 psi. We had a boost leak somewhere. As it turned out, it was my
RaceTech FMIC.
The following weekend I found the major leak just by using a pair of rubber pipe caps; one of which I affixed a bicycle valve stem to. This test didn't require me to submerge it
under water, which I later learned would of been a better way. I used JB Weld to fix the big leak but the following Monday, the car would still only do about 178HP. Graph was
smoother though. So the next weekend, the FMIC went into the bathtub. I found 3 more significant leaks and a very slow bubble from my original hole. This time, I made sure
everything was plugged up. After the JB Weld had set for 6 hours, I repressurized the FMIC to 25 psi and finally the leaks have stopped.
At this point, the butt dyno is telling me it's still not right; the good news is, I'm holidng steady at 15psi now. I have pressure tested 3 of the check valves, replaced the Forge DV
with a TT 225 DV, retigthened all the hose clamps everywhere, even removed the plastic insulating washers from the intake manifold when I installed the Power Gasket. I'm inclined
to believe that there are no more significant leaks but I feel now the problem may be just small injectors. Just to be sure, I installed a fuel pressure gauge and I am seeing a high of
81psi to the fuel rail so I can at least elliminate a clogged fuel filter.
I am awaiting for a set of 310cc/hr. injectors and an adjustable fuel regulator. Once these are in and I get the GIAC reprogrammed for these injectors at 3BAR pressure 44.1 psi, I'll
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perform another dyno pull. Stay tuned.
Update: 8/2/2003
I finally received everything I neede to begin tweaking the fuel delivery. On Wed., 7/29/03, I had already installed a Fuel Pressure Gauge and an adjustable FPR from Casper
Electronics. The 310cc/min injectors arrived the Friday before so I setup an appointment with Dynospot Racing.
When I arrived, I removed the ECM for him to program the GIAC K04 profile for use with 310cc injectors and approx. 3BAR (44.1psi) and then dyno the car. It took Dick Chiang
about 10 minutes to do the reprogram. In the meantime, I installed the swapped out the old 210cc/min injectors with the 310cc/min. injectors; these are Siemens/Deka units, not
Bosch. (Still at odds if I should have gone with Bosch since they have a 4 hole orifice and thus a different spray pattern.)
While waiting for the dyonjet to be free, I drove the car around and immediately realized some severe bogging around 3,000 RPM when attempting to go wide open throttle (WOT). I
returned to Dynospot and turned down the FPR from 44 to about 38. It was better but not quite right. By now, the dyno had freed up so I threw it up on the Dynojet. The first run
was actually the best, but was running very rich and the curve tapered off after only 35000. We fiddled with the A/F and finally settled at 29-32psi fuel pressure. But we are still
experiencing problems after 3500RPM. Up until that point, torque looks good at about 211.3 ft-lbs. but power is extremely low at 163.4HP. At this time, we are hitting up Garrett Lim
on possible timing retard issues. We did play with the N75H valve a bit and got the car to boost to about 23psi so we know now the turbo is capable and that the FMIC is sealed up.
Here's the dyno plot; note that the RED line was when I took a reading with all sorts of leaks in the FMIC. The blue was my best run:
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